Thanks Dustin for posting this and other videos about mini-Frig simple repair. I checked the compressor start relay and it appeared to be functioning fine. You replied that it might still be an issue. I ordered the starting relay and overload device from Amazon, deciding that either or both might be an issue. Replaced them and my wine frig is working as it should. Thanks so much for putting this out there. Minor, inexpensive and relatively easy to repair.
I searched far an wide and was about to throw out a mini-fridge because everyone talked about it but no one showed anything well. Thank you. Now at least I can make an attempt to salvage it.
I can’t thank you enough for posting this video. I followed the instructions stem to stem and repaired a mini fridge that I was just about to throw out. Please keep up the great work and much appreciated. God bless.
Man you the best,I did the same thing like you did,I picked one fresh off the curbside I followed your steps and it works with fixing the old PTC, please don't stop being your self. Thank you for this informative video
I have this same exact sunbeam mini fridge. It worked so well for seven years. It just stopped working recently. I just took off the relay and they are definitely rattling. Have to replace them for sure Thanks so much for this video. I pray your video gets 100 million views!!!!.
Great video! thanks. I think of videos like this as "the matrix." as in downloading a new skill, and confidently diving into it. I have a fridge that's been down almost a year, and wasn't sure what parts / pieces it had that could be it. Plugged in it just hums and clicks off so at least I can look for these two items to get an idea that solves it. thanks
My mini fridge just quit working, now I'm ready to check it out. Thanks for the detailed diagnosis! (Later) I checked it out and the PTC resistor is broken inside. My PTC only had 2 pins in the #2&3 positions. I couldn't find a relay like that so thanks for specifically answering my question - can I use a 3 pin relay for 2 pin application. Ordering now!
Great diagnosis...Well done.....Sad thing is people throw these things out because a Tradesman would charge over $300 to fix that.....and the previous owners are unable to do what you just did.....I have picked up many fridges just like this, fixed them, then given them away to free home....
You're exactly right. They should have used a relay that uses cell batteries or some AA sized lithium batteries. This way you can replace the batteries instead of the whole unit 👍👍
Thank you so much for sharing. I have that same exact fridge and it just stopped cooling two days ago. I called Sunbeam support asking if they could recommend a local repair person. I was transferred to Galen’s (a company claiming to sell the parts for various bands of mini fridges. I was told that that parts aren’t being shipped and my best bet was to just buy a new fridge. I’m going to follow the steps you did and just see what happens before I decide to just chunk my fridge. I’ve only had it for 3 years, so I really expected it to be repairable.
So I got to the plug and tested for the complete circuit with the two flat things. I just hear a fuzzy sound. So I know my issue is related to the plug.
@@angelaskipping3110 the two flat pins SHOULD have continuity. A flat pin to the round pin (ground) or flat pin to any metal surface near the compressor should NOT have continuity.
@@angelaskipping3110 and the fuzzy sound just means that there’s just a tad bit of resistance, which is expected. You meter may not may a clear beep sound. You can also look at your meter and if the number is near to 0, it means there is the indicated number of ohms of resistance. If this is the case, you’re good to proceed as long as you do NOT have any continuity to ground.
Thank you SO much for the detailed video. Unrelated, but what is typically the problem if the fridge is "stuck" on freezing even though the setting is not set to coldest. Our problem is that the whole thing is a freezer. We have a GE. Thanks so much!
Great video, thanks. I checked the plug and both relay parts with multimeter-all tested as good. Plug it in then and no sound of it running at all, just silence. What might the problem be given that scenario (and how to fix)? Thank you.
Great thanks great video we had a power outage and after the power outage was over the mini fridge would turn on but not get cool what is the troubleshoot for this
Mine is loud. It works well, I just got it on Facebook marketplace but the compressor seems loud. I just checked the rubber to make sure it is isolated from rattling. It just sound annoying.
"I don't know the history of this unit". Well, I think I can figure it out. It was plugged in, left plugged in, and things were put in it. Same history every other fridge has except stickers were applied to the front. Interesting that an inherently flawed thermister is used. I wonder if its just cheaper or if they want that to fail before something more catastrophic.
Great video. Can you explain why there is continuity between L&N with the thermostat on? Wouldn’t a short mean that the breaker would trip as soon as you plug it in? I guess I’m not familiar with what the impedances of a mini fridge are.
Thanks. You've got to remember that we're dealing with alternating current, so you can't think of a short like you would with direct current. The thermostats typically work off of pressure applied to a small disk via a capillary tube. When the pressure increases/decreases as temperature changes, it'll apply/reduce pressure in the thermostat switch which effectively completes or breaks the circuit thus turning the compressor on or off. Knowing that the fridge is likely warm inside, the thermostat, if dialed to a 'cool' temp setting would be in the 'ON' position, meaning there would be complete circuit between the load and neutral pins of the plug.
I have a mini fridge that has some ice build up and works, but seems to be cycling from hot on the outer sides when it kick on and buzzes then goes silent again and the outer sides get cool off. Should it be doing that?
Careful swapping to a 3 pin. I’m sure it’s all good in most cases but it definitely wasn’t in mine. I got a 3 pin relay to replace the broken “2 pin” in my galanz fridge. I swapped them over in the same locations and heard buzzing when I gave it power. Unplugged it and pulled it back apart. I took the cover off of each relay and came to find out that the 2 pin relay was actually a 1 pin relay with a dummy terminal in the #2 position. I guess just to give a spot to mount the 2 hot wires together, but they weren’t actually doing anything in the relay? So when I swapped it over like that on the 3 pin, it was shorting out. Yikes. I ended up taking the in tact disk out of the 3 pin and putting it in the original “2 pin” relay. Everything is working perfect now. Just a heads up to anyone who might come across this as well. I don’t know if it’s poor design from galanz, but definitely doesn’t seem the most safe lol
Hi Dustin. I bought a similar fridge brand new, and when moving it around the compressor clanks inside it's housing. Did yours do the same thing? Mine runs fine but only when moving it the noise can be heard. Some have said it is normal on smaller fridges, but I have another mini fridge that doesn't do it.
I have a magic chef 3.9 cubic mini fridge. I replaced both parts and it's still not getting cold. The compressor gets very very hot and keeps running. I'm assuming it's out of refrigerant or there's a leak somewhere in the line. Sounds like it would cost too much to put refrigerant in it. Darn. The refrigerator was working fine and then things starting cooling down. It looks brand new. These are about $180 new now!?
I have a Galanz Mini Fridge and it's awesome. Only problem is the bottom part to keep it standing straight, is missing the front right side to it. So it stays tilted. Anyone know what it's called so I can replace it? I've used cardboard pieces and it works, but I'd rather juat get it fixed.
I replaced the start relay and overload on my fridge and it began working again.... for a day. It smells like it overheated and now it's failing to cool the box again. What could cause this?
Curious: When you pointed out the overload protection: One of your wires is red. Mine are Black and white. Other question: How would the "overload" happen? Does the overload protection work like a surge protector?
The power cord on mine has a white jacket, after it gets into the back of the fridge, they used some different wire to connect to the overload and start relay. They just happened to use red wire instead of black. Your black wire should be hooked to the overload as it connect to the “Common” (top) pin of the compressor. The overload works more as a circuit breaker/fuse. If the compressor starts drawing too much current, it’ll heat up which cause the overload to trip and cut power. The excess current draw can be caused by a compressor that has developed an internal short or is starting to seize up due to wear, low oil, loss of refrigerant, etc.
Hey Dustin my start relay has 2 pins and the number on it is j531q32e. Google keeps pointing to the 1 pin relay. The terminals are numered and the pin mine was connected on was on pin 2. The 1 pin relay has the pin on number 2. You think i would be safe with the 1 pin relay? Dont really know what to make of the numbers on my relay as they don't seem similar to the 4.7 relay. I did measure the resistance on mine and i was getting 956 ohms so its bad for sure. Another thing on the rear tag for the specs on my fridge it shows power input of 90w
Found this link which may give you another number to cross reference and see if it looks the same as what you currently have. www.appliancepartspros.com/answers-for-samsung-relay-ptc-da35-00099g-ap4566388-question-220951.html
@@DustinRogersinMO thanks man. So the replacement part doesn't look exactly the same but the repair video associated with the part shows the exact same looking part. Only difference is that relay is being used on a full sized refrigerator and I have a small Danby mini fridge. That fridge also has 2 wires connected to it while mine only has 1 wire connected to it on pin 2. I'm still a little unsure. I'll try and do more research. In the end I feel the 1 pin 4.7 relay might be the correct part.
i have a question I have a monster coolers that is cylinder in shape that you see in convenient stores that quiet cooling would this be kinda the same setup before i take it apart or do you happen to know thanks
@@DustinRogersinMO i was just looking at it thru the holes from the vent and its almost exactly the same and thanks for the video cause i mess my drink cooler
Is it normal for the starter relay to get extremely hot? I had just ordered a brand new starter relay because the new one is what’s getting super hot! Should the starter relay be shaking making a sound? I’ve never really fixed a mini fridge before so this is why I’m asking these questions! Just in case it’s a Hisense mini compact fridge, I meant to say the overload protection black and white one should it be getting extremely hot not the starter relay, I put the new parts in and it still kept shutting off I didn’t hear the compressor kick over so could it be something to do with one of them why it’s not kicking over or did they give me the wrong part?!
Just replaced the relay and overload on my SC68 mini fridge but compressor doesn’t start. There is just a low hum and the compressor gets very hot. Does this mean the compressor is likely bad? Could the compressor possibly be locked and just needs a jump somehow?
I’d guess your compressor is on its way out. They do sell compressor start packs, which is basically a big capacitor that gives it a little extra juice at startup, but they range in price from $40-60. You may get a couple days before the compressor finally seizes, or it may last you a year or two. It’s kind of a gamble and typically not worth it on a mini fridge.
@@paullewis7813 Yeah I got it on, it just took some maneuvering. It's a little bit of a puzzle as I remember, gotta have it turned the right way, then it seems like "... duh."
I found a blaze 4.4 cubic inch and side of road that said works on piece of paper. Got home opened it and it looked brand spanking new. Plugged it in and no matter if its on number 6 setting which is the coldest or number 1 setting it constantly says 50 degrees on my thermostat that i placed on the shelf. Cant find any info online or TH-cam except it could be damper control being stuck closed. Any thoughts?
If the compressor is starting and cycling after a while, I'd suspect an issue with the thermostat. It may be kicking off too early, not allowing the compressor to cool down to the appropriate temperature. If the compressor never starts, it's likely a relay or overload device that I demonstrate in this video. If the compressor runs non-stop, I'd suspect that it's low on refrigerant and it's unable to cool down any lower than 50 degrees.
how could a unit fail just by sitting dormant? I have a unit that stayed in place but was unplugged for a few months. when I plugged it back in, the compressor wont' start.
A lot of possible scenarios. Corrosion on wiring contacts? Oil in compressor settled and the compressor seized? Mice chewed through wiring? Have you checked the relay and overload? As shown in this video, a faulty relay won’t necessarily sound bad but will prevent the compressor from starting.
It looks like the freezer I was given has been damaged. Not cooling. There are marks on the inside of the freezer part that looks like someone took a knife or tool to it. Can the freezer be replaced or should I just buy a new one?
Hi Dustin can you help me, my relay has 6 flat prongs not just one like in this video, I’m not sure which color wire goes where, there’s a purple, 2 black, blue, white There’s two silver prongs together on the top right side of the relay and one silver prong on the top left side There’s two golden prongs on the bottom left and one silver prong on the bottom right I tried measuring the ohms of the power cord prongs but it just stayed on ‘1’ no matter what
Some brands of fridges use a start capacitor or a run capacitor or both which require more connectors. If your relay is busted, just order one with the correct number of connectors and hook the wires back to the same positions they were in originally and you should be good to go. There’s links to three different styles in the description
I’d unplug the fridge and let the compressor get cool to the touch, then plug it in and try again. If the compressor starts up, it may indicate that the compressor is starting to fail and seizes when it gets war. There’s also a possibility that the compressor has tried to start so many times in a row that it has heated up and you may still have a start relay or a bad capacitor, if it is a capacitor start compressor.
Usually it means that it’s low on refrigerant. Most times it’s cost prohibitive to repair unless you happen to have the vacuum pump, recovery tank, gauges, and a way to add test ports to the lines.
Check the thermostat. If it’s turned to a warm-ish setting and still freezing things, I’d suspect a faulty thermostat that is unable to regulate temperature properly.
Doubtful. I suspect that the compressor is failing. After it runs for a while and heats up, it may develop a short internally that is causing the GFI to trip.
I have a question, I replaced both the overload and start relays, and my wine chiller s still doing the same thing, the compressor turns on, then clicks off after a moment, I filed down the female connections a bit but that didn’t help, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
@@alvaromontoya7529 did the original relay and overload test bad? The problem may be with the compressor itself. It may be starting to seize up, which causes it to draw more current which trips the overload. You can buy a “hard start kit” (affiliate link: amzn.to/3NJDpXk) which replaces the start relay with a big capacitor that gives the compressor a little boost to get going. These can get some extra life out of a unit, but the expected life is unknown. It could last for a year or more or it may stop working after a couple days. It’s cheap enough to give it a shot.
Yes. Typically there is a fan that will distribute cold air from the freezer to the fridge compartment. If that fan isn’t working, or the passage way between the freezer and fridge is blocked from ice buildup, the fridge won’t get cold.
My mini fridge starts right up, compressor sounds normal. No cooling. Thermostat was turned to the coldest setting. My start relay has 6 prongs, so not as common, or so I have found. Anything else I can check?
If the compressor continuously runs, but it never cools off, it’s usually low on refrigerant. Unless you have the equipment to vacuum down the system, repair the leak, and recharge it, it’s usually cost prohibitive to pay a professional to repair a mini fridge. Usually costs less to replace it.
I found a small bud light mini fridge today at the curb and doesn’t work and it does not have those relay on the compressor it looks like the guy before tried to fix my Question is do all mini fridges have those relays
Anything made in the last 30 years should have a very similar setup. Find the terminals coming out of the compressor and see if they have anything hooked to them.
@@DustinRogersinMO unfortunately the wires are connected directly to the 3 pins on the compressor I have a feeling someone tried to fix or bypass the relay and never put back the original relays but it does have a run capacitor wired to not sure if original or added to try and fix it I’m gonna take a $8 risk and see if it will run if not back to the trash it goes thanks for the reply
@@dickherdown2010 follow where those wires go. They might have installed a hard start kit on it (amzn.to/3RCPVbj) which are often used to get a little more life out of a dying compressor.
Hello i have a question, how to disconect that small freezer inside, its possible? I just damaged that freezer with knife, and dont know what to do... Thanx for answer man.
@@Slovan.nie.kolaborant you could repair the hole, but the system would then have to be recharged. Unless you know someone with the equipment to do it, it’d probably cost more to recharge it than a brand new fridge would cost.
my Avanti mini fridge has a start relay that has the letters "PTH 490C then -AS 6R8 then what looks like the letter M inside the letter C then 5DN66A. when testing it, it reads 7.7 ohms. I cant find a replacement part for it. Any thoughts?
I couldn’t find that particular part number, but I did find the data sheet for it. www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/pth490/-2042694835020093711/ Looks like is supposed to be a 3.3 ohm, but the one I have linked in the description should work
Excellent info in your video. Someone gave me a 3.1 cu ft. Galanz mini frig with a freezer on top. Both "chill" but do not get cold enough even on the coldest setting. The person said they thought their kids left the door open on the refrig that was kept outside on a porch, and they it would not cool properly. Do you think the problem might be the thermostat? If so, any idea how I would test that? Thank you so much!
I’d check to see how long the compressor runs. If the compressor runs non stop and never shuts off, it’s likely low on refrigerant and can’t get it any cooler. If the compressor runs for a bit (5 minutes - 1 hour) and then shuts off, and the internal fridge temp is only “cool”, then it seems like the thermostat is signaling that the desired temp has been reached and to “stop cooling”, which would be a thermostat issue.
@@DustinRogersinMO it's running nonstop. This probably sounds like a silly question, but how can I get refrigerant for it? Will an appliance shop be able to help me?
@@kycatrescue7305 search for the channel called sixtyfiveford. I think he’s got an older video showing how to recharge a fridge, but unless you find and fix the leak, it likely won’t let long.
@@kycatrescue7305 That's a deal breaker. The leak must be found & repaired & then a vacuum pulled before adding the correct amount of refrigerant. You'd need an HVAC guy & it would cost much more than just buying a new frig.
@@nativendn7382 without seeing your meter, I can’t say for certain, but I would guess that the 20 is the amount of ohms it’s measuring. Is there any symbols displayed on the meter screen? Like an upside down horseshoe (ohm symbol)? If your meter reads 20 ohms with the leads touching, that seems excessive. Is there a decimal point in front of the 2? Because 0.20 ohms would make more sense. Can you set your meter to ohms setting and touch the leads together? Does it give the same reading?
@@nativendn7382 you’ve got it set on the diode check setting (arrow with the line). Turn it one click to the left so it’s on the ‘200’ setting. That’s the setting for measuring Ohms (up to 200 ohms). With the dial on that setting, when you touch your leads together, what does the screen show? Make sure you’re not touching the metal part of your leads, as that could affect the reading.
@@DustinRogersinMO to be clear, I didn’t get a beep on plug that plugs into outlet. I was popping a GFCI outlet that I had a radio plugged into. When I plugged the frig in, that GFCI with radio would trip and then I knew it was the frig. but the breaker wasn’t tripping. Dial inside is set to max. Both relay and other thingy(lol) had positive beeps in continuity test.
Did you check continuity between one flat prong and the round pin on the plug? That should read OL. If it doesn’t, it means you have a short to ground which is what is causing the GFCI to trip
What does it mean when my rca mini fridge (2yrs old) is running, on the Coldest setting (7) and the internal temp will only go down to 45F? It had ran on and off all night but will not go below 45F to make ice. Thanks for the informative video.
@@DustinRogersinMO the compressor wasn’t running constantly. It running like normal then stop. Then while later it kick on again. I’m also leaning toward low refrigerant.
If the freezer is a separate compartment than the fridge, there’s often a fan that will pull the cold “freezer” air to the fridge compartment. If that fan is not functioning, the cold air won’t be circulated. Other models may have two separate cooling circuits for the fridge and freezer compartments. Just depends on the model
i have a Magic Chef fridge 10.1 cu ft two compartments yet everything runs as supposed to yet it does not cool so ???? not an expert but it could be one one of two things, either thermostat and or compressor, will try thermostat but kind of doubt it will be it, any other advice you could give.
If the refrigerant has leaked out, the compressor will still run, it’ll just never get cold. Usually if it’s low on refrigerant, the compressor runs nonstop because the thermostat never signals it to turn off
@@DustinRogersinMO that is exactly the problem? How to know for sure? it has not been punctured, it was working ok, on visual inspection it looks whole so... how to kow for sure, if compresor gas then it will be a pain since you have to cut pipes, weld back, vacuum (need the machine), then refill... too much for home trinketter I would say I wish it would be only replace this or that.
Is it normal for the refrigerant to be depleted over time? I understand that if it is very repetitive most likelly there is a leak in the system but if there are years between refill I don't think that would be a leak so ... hence the question and why it is depleted? ANYBODY? applicable to cars, fridges and freezers, I have observed that if an appliance do not run over a long period of time, it may be low but once refilled and running works perfectly for years so ???? why it gets low if there are no leaks?
Sometimes it’s just a pinhole at one of the solder joints from when it was manufactured. Or soldering flux that has caused corrosion which led to a pinhole years after manufacture. Often it’s a self induced leak as the refrigerant usually runs through the little freezer tray, which ices up. People often try to scrape/chip the ice off and end up poking a hole in one of the refrigerant lines. There’s also a possibility of it leaking in a place that isn’t easily detectable, either a tight space that a technician can’t really see, or somewhere that is incased in foam insulation. In regards to cars, a lot of the sealing points are rubber o-rings that can shrink/harden over time causing them to not seal as well.
@@DustinRogersinMO DOES STOP LEAK WORK? (Wouldn't make compresor work harder?) Well after trying another thermostat the problem persist so my last attempt is installing a bullet piercing intake to put R134A WITH 10% stop leak, on visual inspections there are no leaks so probably is hidden, yet I have noticed the change on temperature on the compressor pipes, so I conclude that it does not have enough refrigerant, since pressurised tube only gets warm not hot, the way it suppose to. I wonder why the industry do not install refill valves on the system since brand new (MONEY and secondary environment I suppose)
@@JG-lx5pm sixtyfiveford has some good videos where he recharges an older fridge/cooler. Here’s a video where he’s diagnosing thermostat, etc. th-cam.com/video/uSYTMV9lUbk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UZy3iovCz2N6mpxy
@@DustinRogersinMO Thank you so much I will check it but most likely i already watched it lol! Some people call USA the country of opportunity, I call it the country of waste, something that can extend its life or use, goes to the landfill for a minor repair or bad design (or purposedly just for profit), only 5% of the population in the world yet creates more than 30% of the pollution and waste in the world, you can see it in the simple things like this fridge LOL!!!! I guess just venting. THANK YOU!
Great video, thanks. I checked the plug and both relay parts with multimeter-all tested as good. Plug it in then and no sound of it running at all, just silence. What might the problem be given that scenario (and how to fix)? Thank you.
Best TH-cam video on how to fix mini refrig electrical issues!
Thanks Dustin for posting this and other videos about mini-Frig simple repair. I checked the compressor start relay and it appeared to be functioning fine. You replied that it might still be an issue. I ordered the starting relay and overload device from Amazon, deciding that either or both might be an issue. Replaced them and my wine frig is working as it should. Thanks so much for putting this out there. Minor, inexpensive and relatively easy to repair.
I searched far an wide and was about to throw out a mini-fridge because everyone talked about it but no one showed anything well. Thank you. Now at least I can make an attempt to salvage it.
I can’t thank you enough for posting this video. I followed the instructions stem to stem and repaired a mini fridge that I was just about to throw out. Please keep up the great work and much appreciated. God bless.
Very detailed and informative. I especially like the way he shows clearly how to test the 2 parts. Thanks!
Because of this video I now have a working mini fridge again! Much obliged!
Just excellent. Clear, precise, no nonsense. Thank you.
Man you the best,I did the same thing like you did,I picked one fresh off the curbside I followed your steps and it works with fixing the old PTC, please don't stop being your self.
Thank you for this informative video
Thanks...great job... informative without wasting time on periferals.
Super helpful. In particular, I liked that you took apart the start relay to show how simple the inside was.
Thank You!! totally complete and detail. The best of all
Awesome. You always teach me something new and in a way i understand.
I have this same exact sunbeam mini fridge. It worked so well for seven years. It just stopped working recently. I just took off the relay and they are definitely rattling. Have to replace them for sure Thanks so much for this video.
I pray your video gets 100 million views!!!!.
Thank you
Score! Gotta love curb side mini fridges. These things are always the exact same problem in my experience.
Wow pretty cool fix
Very helpful. Thanks so much.
Thanks
Thank you for the education. Now I know what to look for. 👍
Of all videos I seen tonite yours is the best one ...thanks bubba nice job !!!
Thanks.
Thank you Dustin for this super helpful video! Amazon had the relay I needed - cheers bud!
Very helpful thank you
Thank you for the knowledge you taught me I was able to save my fridge and wallet :)
thanks you really helped me fix my brother in law mini fridge 🙂
Sounds like he’s a sister in law 😂
Thanks a lot.
Is not enough.
Very simple and knowledgeable.
Thanks Thanks, Thanks, Thanks, Thanks, Thanks
Great video my mini ref stopped working will be checking these parts. I need to get NY beer cold
great video easy good teacher
Excellent video learn lot solve my problem thank you sir 👌🏿👍🏽
Another great informative video!
Great stuff mahn! Very interesting and knowledgeable 👍
Replaced relay and overheat things and it works!!!
Great video, helped a lot thanks
Yeah that’s cool I think that’s gonna help me out
THANK YOU. its was useful video
Great video! thanks. I think of videos like this as "the matrix." as in downloading a new skill, and confidently diving into it.
I have a fridge that's been down almost a year, and wasn't sure what parts / pieces it had that could be it. Plugged in it just hums and clicks off so at least I can look for these two items to get an idea that solves it. thanks
Such a good video
Thanks
Really awesome video! Thanks
Thanks
My start relay doesn’t look like yours though. Just a bunch of copper wire rolled around a tab
@@lisahummel7795 that’s a different style of relay and works a bit differently. I’ve not encountered that style, but I have seen some other videos.
My mini fridge just quit working, now I'm ready to check it out. Thanks for the detailed diagnosis!
(Later) I checked it out and the PTC resistor is broken inside. My PTC only had 2 pins in the #2&3 positions. I couldn't find a relay like that so thanks for specifically answering my question - can I use a 3 pin relay for 2 pin application. Ordering now!
My little refrigerator went out Imma try what you did😁
Ur the best
Great diagnosis...Well done.....Sad thing is people throw these things out because a Tradesman would charge over $300 to fix that.....and the previous owners are unable to do what you just did.....I have picked up many fridges just like this, fixed them, then given them away to free home....
Thanks. I donated this one to a local youth theater.
Well, this info will come in handy someday. Thx. It strikes me that PTC relay is like a built-in self destruct feature. Planned obsolescence.
You're exactly right. They should have used a relay that uses cell batteries or some AA sized lithium batteries. This way you can replace the batteries instead of the whole unit 👍👍
Thank you so much for sharing. I have that same exact fridge and it just stopped cooling two days ago. I called Sunbeam support asking if they could recommend a local repair person. I was transferred to Galen’s (a company claiming to sell the parts for various bands of mini fridges. I was told that that parts aren’t being shipped and my best bet was to just buy a new fridge. I’m going to follow the steps you did and just see what happens before I decide to just chunk my fridge. I’ve only had it for 3 years, so I really expected it to be repairable.
Good luck with the repair. If you have questions along the way, I’ll try to help
So I got to the plug and tested for the complete circuit with the two flat things. I just hear a fuzzy sound. So I know my issue is related to the plug.
@@angelaskipping3110 the two flat pins SHOULD have continuity. A flat pin to the round pin (ground) or flat pin to any metal surface near the compressor should NOT have continuity.
@@angelaskipping3110 and the fuzzy sound just means that there’s just a tad bit of resistance, which is expected. You meter may not may a clear beep sound. You can also look at your meter and if the number is near to 0, it means there is the indicated number of ohms of resistance. If this is the case, you’re good to proceed as long as you do NOT have any continuity to ground.
Thank you SO much for the detailed video. Unrelated, but what is typically the problem if the fridge is "stuck" on freezing even though the setting is not set to coldest. Our problem is that the whole thing is a freezer. We have a GE. Thanks so much!
Great video, thanks. I checked the plug and both relay parts with multimeter-all tested as good. Plug it in then and no sound of it running at all, just silence. What might the problem be given that scenario (and how to fix)? Thank you.
Great thanks great video we had a power outage and after the power outage was over the mini fridge would turn on but not get cool what is the troubleshoot for this
Excellent and outstanding video. Great work! But I'm wondering have you ever tried repairing a mini-fridge's thermostat? That's what I'm facing.
I haven’t. What issue are you experiencing?
Mine is loud. It works well, I just got it on Facebook marketplace but the compressor seems loud. I just checked the rubber to make sure it is isolated from rattling. It just sound annoying.
"I don't know the history of this unit". Well, I think I can figure it out. It was plugged in, left plugged in, and things were put in it. Same history every other fridge has except stickers were applied to the front. Interesting that an inherently flawed thermister is used. I wonder if its just cheaper or if they want that to fail before something more catastrophic.
Nothing better than fixing it for free 99
Great video. Can you explain why there is continuity between L&N with the thermostat on? Wouldn’t a short mean that the breaker would trip as soon as you plug it in? I guess I’m not familiar with what the impedances of a mini fridge are.
Thanks. You've got to remember that we're dealing with alternating current, so you can't think of a short like you would with direct current. The thermostats typically work off of pressure applied to a small disk via a capillary tube. When the pressure increases/decreases as temperature changes, it'll apply/reduce pressure in the thermostat switch which effectively completes or breaks the circuit thus turning the compressor on or off. Knowing that the fridge is likely warm inside, the thermostat, if dialed to a 'cool' temp setting would be in the 'ON' position, meaning there would be complete circuit between the load and neutral pins of the plug.
I have a magic chef retro mini refrigerator that’s not cooling Module HMCR320ME do you have any suggestions. Thank you
I have a mini fridge that has some ice build up and works, but seems to be cycling from hot on the outer sides when it kick on and buzzes then goes silent again and the outer sides get cool off. Should it be doing that?
Careful swapping to a 3 pin. I’m sure it’s all good in most cases but it definitely wasn’t in mine. I got a 3 pin relay to replace the broken “2 pin” in my galanz fridge. I swapped them over in the same locations and heard buzzing when I gave it power. Unplugged it and pulled it back apart. I took the cover off of each relay and came to find out that the 2 pin relay was actually a 1 pin relay with a dummy terminal in the #2 position. I guess just to give a spot to mount the 2 hot wires together, but they weren’t actually doing anything in the relay? So when I swapped it over like that on the 3 pin, it was shorting out. Yikes. I ended up taking the in tact disk out of the 3 pin and putting it in the original “2 pin” relay. Everything is working perfect now. Just a heads up to anyone who might come across this as well. I don’t know if it’s poor design from galanz, but definitely doesn’t seem the most safe lol
Hi Dustin. I bought a similar fridge brand new, and when moving it around the compressor clanks inside it's housing. Did yours do the same thing? Mine runs fine but only when moving it the noise can be heard. Some have said it is normal on smaller fridges, but I have another mini fridge that doesn't do it.
Yep. That’s normal
I have a magic chef 3.9 cubic mini fridge. I replaced both parts and it's still not getting cold. The compressor gets very very hot and keeps running. I'm assuming it's out of refrigerant or there's a leak somewhere in the line. Sounds like it would cost too much to put refrigerant in it. Darn. The refrigerator was working fine and then things starting cooling down. It looks brand new. These are about $180 new now!?
If you have the tools to do it, here’s how it can be recharged. th-cam.com/video/t7JtlXzaCpw/w-d-xo.html
I have a Galanz Mini Fridge and it's awesome. Only problem is the bottom part to keep it standing straight, is missing the front right side to it. So it stays tilted. Anyone know what it's called so I can replace it? I've used cardboard pieces and it works, but I'd rather juat get it fixed.
I replaced the start relay and overload on my fridge and it began working again.... for a day. It smells like it overheated and now it's failing to cool the box again. What could cause this?
Curious: When you pointed out the overload protection: One of your wires is red. Mine are Black and white. Other question: How would the "overload" happen? Does the overload protection work like a surge protector?
The power cord on mine has a white jacket, after it gets into the back of the fridge, they used some different wire to connect to the overload and start relay. They just happened to use red wire instead of black. Your black wire should be hooked to the overload as it connect to the “Common” (top) pin of the compressor.
The overload works more as a circuit breaker/fuse. If the compressor starts drawing too much current, it’ll heat up which cause the overload to trip and cut power. The excess current draw can be caused by a compressor that has developed an internal short or is starting to seize up due to wear, low oil, loss of refrigerant, etc.
Hey Dustin my start relay has 2 pins and the number on it is j531q32e. Google keeps pointing to the 1 pin relay. The terminals are numered and the pin mine was connected on was on pin 2. The 1 pin relay has the pin on number 2. You think i would be safe with the 1 pin relay? Dont really know what to make of the numbers on my relay as they don't seem similar to the 4.7 relay. I did measure the resistance on mine and i was getting 956 ohms so its bad for sure. Another thing on the rear tag for the specs on my fridge it shows power input of 90w
Found this link which may give you another number to cross reference and see if it looks the same as what you currently have.
www.appliancepartspros.com/answers-for-samsung-relay-ptc-da35-00099g-ap4566388-question-220951.html
@@DustinRogersinMO thanks man. So the replacement part doesn't look exactly the same but the repair video associated with the part shows the exact same looking part. Only difference is that relay is being used on a full sized refrigerator and I have a small Danby mini fridge. That fridge also has 2 wires connected to it while mine only has 1 wire connected to it on pin 2. I'm still a little unsure. I'll try and do more research. In the end I feel the 1 pin 4.7 relay might be the correct part.
i tried a 3 pin to replace a 2 pin it tripped the breaker the pins are numberd noticed that the pins are different as far as number location
i have a question I have a monster coolers that is cylinder in shape that you see in convenient stores that quiet cooling would this be kinda the same setup before i take it apart or do you happen to know thanks
It’s probably very similar. Look for an access panel that can be removed
@@DustinRogersinMO i was just looking at it thru the holes from the vent and its almost exactly the same and thanks for the video cause i mess my drink cooler
Thanks, but do I need to change 2 parts or just one ?
Typically just the relay is defective
Is it normal for the starter relay to get extremely hot? I had just ordered a brand new starter relay because the new one is what’s getting super hot! Should the starter relay be shaking making a sound? I’ve never really fixed a mini fridge before so this is why I’m asking these questions! Just in case it’s a Hisense mini compact fridge, I meant to say the overload protection black and white one should it be getting extremely hot not the starter relay, I put the new parts in and it still kept shutting off I didn’t hear the compressor kick over so could it be something to do with one of them why it’s not kicking over or did they give me the wrong part?!
Just replaced the relay and overload on my SC68 mini fridge but compressor doesn’t start. There is just a low hum and the compressor gets very hot. Does this mean the compressor is likely bad? Could the compressor possibly be locked and just needs a jump somehow?
I’d guess your compressor is on its way out. They do sell compressor start packs, which is basically a big capacitor that gives it a little extra juice at startup, but they range in price from $40-60. You may get a couple days before the compressor finally seizes, or it may last you a year or two. It’s kind of a gamble and typically not worth it on a mini fridge.
My fridge just on after one minute compressor off. Again compressor on and off what is the problem?.
Great video, fixed mine. But now I can't get that stupid plastic cover back on.
Did you ever get the cover back on ? I have the same issue . Does it need to be on ?
@@paullewis7813 Yeah I got it on, it just took some maneuvering. It's a little bit of a puzzle as I remember, gotta have it turned the right way, then it seems like "...
duh."
I found a blaze 4.4 cubic inch and side of road that said works on piece of paper. Got home opened it and it looked brand spanking new. Plugged it in and no matter if its on number 6 setting which is the coldest or number 1 setting it constantly says 50 degrees on my thermostat that i placed on the shelf. Cant find any info online or TH-cam except it could be damper control being stuck closed. Any thoughts?
If the compressor is starting and cycling after a while, I'd suspect an issue with the thermostat. It may be kicking off too early, not allowing the compressor to cool down to the appropriate temperature. If the compressor never starts, it's likely a relay or overload device that I demonstrate in this video. If the compressor runs non-stop, I'd suspect that it's low on refrigerant and it's unable to cool down any lower than 50 degrees.
@@DustinRogersinMO Thanks for the quick reply and taking the time to do so. Stay healthy and safe brother!🇺🇸 🙏 🔫
how could a unit fail just by sitting dormant? I have a unit that stayed in place but was unplugged for a few months. when I plugged it back in, the compressor wont' start.
A lot of possible scenarios. Corrosion on wiring contacts? Oil in compressor settled and the compressor seized? Mice chewed through wiring?
Have you checked the relay and overload? As shown in this video, a faulty relay won’t necessarily sound bad but will prevent the compressor from starting.
It looks like the freezer I was given has been damaged. Not cooling. There are marks on the inside of the freezer part that looks like someone took a knife or tool to it. Can the freezer be replaced or should I just buy a new one?
You probably have a leak in your line. You will likely need it professionally repaired, had a similar situation with my mini fridge!
Hi Dustin can you help me, my relay has 6 flat prongs not just one like in this video, I’m not sure which color wire goes where, there’s a purple, 2 black, blue, white
There’s two silver prongs together on the top right side of the relay and one silver prong on the top left side
There’s two golden prongs on the bottom left and one silver prong on the bottom right
I tried measuring the ohms of the power cord prongs but it just stayed on ‘1’ no matter what
I have the same issue as you.
Did you get things figured out on yours? I hate to buy parts that I end up not needing
@@davethomas3553 no I’m sorry :/
Also the relay has 3 connectors on it... not one idk if that means it's a new model or what but yeah it's busted
Some brands of fridges use a start capacitor or a run capacitor or both which require more connectors. If your relay is busted, just order one with the correct number of connectors and hook the wires back to the same positions they were in originally and you should be good to go. There’s links to three different styles in the description
If the compressor just gets hot but doesn’t hum like this does that mean the compressor is shot? All other components were tested
I’d unplug the fridge and let the compressor get cool to the touch, then plug it in and try again. If the compressor starts up, it may indicate that the compressor is starting to fail and seizes when it gets war. There’s also a possibility that the compressor has tried to start so many times in a row that it has heated up and you may still have a start relay or a bad capacitor, if it is a capacitor start compressor.
if the compressor keeps running and never stops and one side of the fridge gets hot, what does that mean? a bad thermostat?
Usually it means that it’s low on refrigerant. Most times it’s cost prohibitive to repair unless you happen to have the vacuum pump, recovery tank, gauges, and a way to add test ports to the lines.
I have the same issue. Little black model number is QP2-6R8MD2.
Does this mean it a 6 ohm? Can I use a 15 ohm part? All I can find.
The 6R8 most likely means 6.8 Ohm. If you Google QP2-6R8 you should get a few results for eBay. Looks like they’re around $20-25
The compressor sounds noisy on the video. Was it normal live?
What would cause freezing, no matter the setting on the temp control? The fridge never shuts off basically.
My guess would be a bad thermostat
How do you fix a mini fridge that keeps freeze everything?
Check the thermostat. If it’s turned to a warm-ish setting and still freezing things, I’d suspect a faulty thermostat that is unable to regulate temperature properly.
The wire connectors are fired and crumbled off on my relay. Where can i get these type of connectors to replace them for the new relay?
Assuming you have the same style of relay as shown in this video, you’d need connectors and a suitable crimper like this. amzn.to/3KNUY6O
@@DustinRogersinMOThanks I appreciate it. And yea it is the same as the one in the video. Once i get these ordered i will let you know what happens.
My mini fridge runs then after awhile few hours trips my gfi and stop running. Would changing these 2 parts help?
Doubtful. I suspect that the compressor is failing. After it runs for a while and heats up, it may develop a short internally that is causing the GFI to trip.
I have a question, I replaced both the overload and start relays, and my wine chiller s still doing the same thing, the compressor turns on, then clicks off after a moment, I filed down the female connections a bit but that didn’t help, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
@@alvaromontoya7529 did the original relay and overload test bad? The problem may be with the compressor itself. It may be starting to seize up, which causes it to draw more current which trips the overload. You can buy a “hard start kit” (affiliate link: amzn.to/3NJDpXk) which replaces the start relay with a big capacitor that gives the compressor a little boost to get going. These can get some extra life out of a unit, but the expected life is unknown. It could last for a year or more or it may stop working after a couple days. It’s cheap enough to give it a shot.
Got the link for the...
It’s in the description
@@DustinRogersinMO Dustin, Thanks I just learned how to use the video to 100%! 😏😉😉
I have a 2 door mini fridge. Is it possible that the freezer would cool but not the fridge?
Yes. Typically there is a fan that will distribute cold air from the freezer to the fridge compartment. If that fan isn’t working, or the passage way between the freezer and fridge is blocked from ice buildup, the fridge won’t get cold.
@@DustinRogersinMO thank you for the time and your insight!👍
My mini fridge starts right up, compressor sounds normal. No cooling. Thermostat was turned to the coldest setting.
My start relay has 6 prongs, so not as common, or so I have found.
Anything else I can check?
If the compressor continuously runs, but it never cools off, it’s usually low on refrigerant. Unless you have the equipment to vacuum down the system, repair the leak, and recharge it, it’s usually cost prohibitive to pay a professional to repair a mini fridge. Usually costs less to replace it.
@Dustin Rogers ok. Thanks.
I was about 75 % sure that was the case.
I'm not a tech, just mess around with a few items.
I do appreciate the info
I found a small bud light mini fridge today at the curb and doesn’t work and it does not have those relay on the compressor it looks like the guy before tried to fix my Question is do all mini fridges have those relays
Anything made in the last 30 years should have a very similar setup. Find the terminals coming out of the compressor and see if they have anything hooked to them.
@@DustinRogersinMO unfortunately the wires are connected directly to the 3 pins on the compressor I have a feeling someone tried to fix or bypass the relay and never put back the original relays but it does have a run capacitor wired to not sure if original or added to try and fix it I’m gonna take a $8 risk and see if it will run if not back to the trash it goes thanks for the reply
@@dickherdown2010 follow where those wires go. They might have installed a hard start kit on it (amzn.to/3RCPVbj) which are often used to get a little more life out of a dying compressor.
my compressor running, but it is very hot, and not cooling..thanks
If the compressor is running nonstop, it usually indicates that it is low on refrigerant from some pinhole leak somewhere in the system.
Hello i have a question, how to disconect that small freezer inside, its possible? I just damaged that freezer with knife, and dont know what to do... Thanx for answer man.
The small freezer is what provides the cooling for the entire unit.
@@DustinRogersinMO Ok. Its some posibility to "repair" a hole with liquid metal? Or some other option???
@@Slovan.nie.kolaborant you could repair the hole, but the system would then have to be recharged. Unless you know someone with the equipment to do it, it’d probably cost more to recharge it than a brand new fridge would cost.
@@DustinRogersinMO Thanx for Your time man. Have a nice day.
Please what's the size
my Avanti mini fridge has a start relay that has the letters "PTH 490C then -AS 6R8 then what looks like the letter M inside the letter C then 5DN66A. when testing it, it reads 7.7 ohms. I cant find a replacement part for it. Any thoughts?
I couldn’t find that particular part number, but I did find the data sheet for it. www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/pth490/-2042694835020093711/
Looks like is supposed to be a 3.3 ohm, but the one I have linked in the description should work
@@DustinRogersinMO thanks. I'll give a try
do you think it matters that the spade connector on the relay is on the bottom and there is no overload protection?
@@williamregan316 on the bottom of what?
@@williamregan316 and I’d guess there’s an overload, maybe just a different style than what I had on mine.
Just for Grins and Giggles, I'd keep that original piece. Probably better than the Amazon/China junk coming over from the East.
Excellent info in your video. Someone gave me a 3.1 cu ft. Galanz mini frig with a freezer on top. Both "chill" but do not get cold enough even on the coldest setting. The person said they thought their kids left the door open on the refrig that was kept outside on a porch, and they it would not cool properly. Do you think the problem might be the thermostat? If so, any idea how I would test that? Thank you so much!
I’d check to see how long the compressor runs. If the compressor runs non stop and never shuts off, it’s likely low on refrigerant and can’t get it any cooler. If the compressor runs for a bit (5 minutes - 1 hour) and then shuts off, and the internal fridge temp is only “cool”, then it seems like the thermostat is signaling that the desired temp has been reached and to “stop cooling”, which would be a thermostat issue.
@@DustinRogersinMO it's running nonstop. This probably sounds like a silly question, but how can I get refrigerant for it? Will an appliance shop be able to help me?
@@kycatrescue7305 search for the channel called sixtyfiveford. I think he’s got an older video showing how to recharge a fridge, but unless you find and fix the leak, it likely won’t let long.
@@DustinRogersinMO thank you so much for the advice and help. So appreciated!
@@kycatrescue7305 That's a deal breaker. The leak must be found & repaired & then a vacuum pulled before adding the correct amount of refrigerant. You'd need an HVAC guy & it would cost much more than just buying a new frig.
Mine don't make a sound. But when I put the leads together it show 20. Is that ok
What setting is your meter on?
The one in the vid
@@nativendn7382 without seeing your meter, I can’t say for certain, but I would guess that the 20 is the amount of ohms it’s measuring. Is there any symbols displayed on the meter screen? Like an upside down horseshoe (ohm symbol)? If your meter reads 20 ohms with the leads touching, that seems excessive. Is there a decimal point in front of the 2? Because 0.20 ohms would make more sense. Can you set your meter to ohms setting and touch the leads together? Does it give the same reading?
63759 for the meter and the meter has the arrow with a line
@@nativendn7382 you’ve got it set on the diode check setting (arrow with the line). Turn it one click to the left so it’s on the ‘200’ setting. That’s the setting for measuring Ohms (up to 200 ohms). With the dial on that setting, when you touch your leads together, what does the screen show? Make sure you’re not touching the metal part of your leads, as that could affect the reading.
What if there is no beep when I touch both prongs in a continuity check??
And the multimeter is reading OL. Open circuit? I have no clue what that means
Check if the thermostat is turned to an On position
@@DustinRogersinMO to be clear, I didn’t get a beep on plug that plugs into outlet. I was popping a GFCI outlet that I had a radio plugged into. When I plugged the frig in, that GFCI with radio would trip and then I knew it was the frig. but the breaker wasn’t tripping. Dial inside is set to max. Both relay and other thingy(lol) had positive beeps in continuity test.
Did you check continuity between one flat prong and the round pin on the plug? That should read OL. If it doesn’t, it means you have a short to ground which is what is causing the GFCI to trip
@@DustinRogersinMO yes. No beeps at all. I also just checked the plug to ground. It beeped. Was I supposed to be in continuity there too?
Does anyone else have trouble getting the cover back on after replacing the relay ?
My minifridge looks nothing like this
Thanks for joining original blessing tv. I appreciate
What does it mean when my rca mini fridge (2yrs old) is running, on the Coldest setting (7) and the internal temp will only go down to 45F? It had ran on and off all night but will not go below 45F to make ice. Thanks for the informative video.
If the compressor runs continuously but it never cools down it’s usually an indication of low refrigerant.
@@DustinRogersinMO the compressor wasn’t running constantly. It running like normal then stop. Then while later it kick on again. I’m also leaning toward low refrigerant.
Hi I have a mini fridge with a freezer , the freezer keeps freezing but the bottom stays hot any suggestions?
If the freezer is a separate compartment than the fridge, there’s often a fan that will pull the cold “freezer” air to the fridge compartment. If that fan is not functioning, the cold air won’t be circulated.
Other models may have two separate cooling circuits for the fridge and freezer compartments. Just depends on the model
i have a Magic Chef fridge 10.1 cu ft two compartments yet everything runs as supposed to yet it does not cool so ???? not an expert but it could be one one of two things, either thermostat and or compressor, will try thermostat but kind of doubt it will be it, any other advice you could give.
If the refrigerant has leaked out, the compressor will still run, it’ll just never get cold. Usually if it’s low on refrigerant, the compressor runs nonstop because the thermostat never signals it to turn off
@@DustinRogersinMO that is exactly the problem? How to know for sure? it has not been punctured, it was working ok, on visual inspection it looks whole so... how to kow for sure, if compresor gas then it will be a pain since you have to cut pipes, weld back, vacuum (need the machine), then refill... too much for home trinketter I would say I wish it would be only replace this or that.
Is it normal for the refrigerant to be depleted over time? I understand that if it is very repetitive most likelly there is a leak in the system but if there are years between refill I don't think that would be a leak so ... hence the question and why it is depleted? ANYBODY? applicable to cars, fridges and freezers, I have observed that if an appliance do not run over a long period of time, it may be low but once refilled and running works perfectly for years so ???? why it gets low if there are no leaks?
Sometimes it’s just a pinhole at one of the solder joints from when it was manufactured. Or soldering flux that has caused corrosion which led to a pinhole years after manufacture. Often it’s a self induced leak as the refrigerant usually runs through the little freezer tray, which ices up. People often try to scrape/chip the ice off and end up poking a hole in one of the refrigerant lines. There’s also a possibility of it leaking in a place that isn’t easily detectable, either a tight space that a technician can’t really see, or somewhere that is incased in foam insulation.
In regards to cars, a lot of the sealing points are rubber o-rings that can shrink/harden over time causing them to not seal as well.
@@DustinRogersinMO DOES STOP LEAK WORK? (Wouldn't make compresor work harder?) Well after trying another thermostat the problem persist so my last attempt is installing a bullet piercing intake to put R134A WITH 10% stop leak, on visual inspections there are no leaks so probably is hidden, yet I have noticed the change on temperature on the compressor pipes, so I conclude that it does not have enough refrigerant, since pressurised tube only gets warm not hot, the way it suppose to. I wonder why the industry do not install refill valves on the system since brand new (MONEY and secondary environment I suppose)
@@JG-lx5pm these unfortunately are considered “disposable”
@@JG-lx5pm sixtyfiveford has some good videos where he recharges an older fridge/cooler. Here’s a video where he’s diagnosing thermostat, etc. th-cam.com/video/uSYTMV9lUbk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UZy3iovCz2N6mpxy
@@DustinRogersinMO Thank you so much I will check it but most likely i already watched it lol! Some people call USA the country of opportunity, I call it the country of waste, something that can extend its life or use, goes to the landfill for a minor repair or bad design (or purposedly just for profit), only 5% of the population in the world yet creates more than 30% of the pollution and waste in the world, you can see it in the simple things like this fridge LOL!!!! I guess just venting. THANK YOU!
Great video, thanks. I checked the plug and both relay parts with multimeter-all tested as good. Plug it in then and no sound of it running at all, just silence. What might the problem be given that scenario (and how to fix)? Thank you.