I have a Canon EOS 5D...inherited from my daughter, a professional photog. I am a senior who uses my camera to set up portraits or landscapes that I can then paint. Appreciate your detailed video. Could not find an ISO auto setting. Will have to do with what I have. Very grateful nonetheless. Thank you.
I don't understand, why your videos have such low views and subscribers. I almost never subscribe or comment on TH-cam but I'll make an exception here. Your work is GOLD STANDARD! Hang on for a little while on 'TH-cam' and if still you don't get any encouraging numbers then you must switch/extend to other platforms like Udemy, Masterclass, Skillshare.... I believe you're going horribly wrong with SEO stuff... Wish you the very best... Thanks for the video :)
That's the kindest comment on my channel yet, thank you Sachish! :) On TH-cam you need time to gain traction, especially with such high level of competition. Plus I'm based in Hungary, so I can't have access to all those new cameras like my fellow youtubers in the US, where renting is ultra-cheap. So I have to work hard, but I luckily the people are picking up my content, and my views are going up :) Cheers and thanks for subscribing :)
I have a Nikon D 7100. I use Auto ISO and Manual mode. I like complete control of my aperture and shutter speed. You did a great job on explaining this. There is just another photographer on line who does it.
Very good video, very clear. I always use the aperture priority mode with ISO Auto, paying attention to the exposure time. High ISO noise is preferable to a blurry photo. The newer cameras generate less and less noise at higher ISOs, in addition, softwares like Lightroom, Nik, DxO Optics, etc., have well-developed tools to remove noise.
Thank you Claudio! I absolutely agree with you - a noisy photo is better than a blurred one! :) Many people are afraid to raise the ISO, but they shouldn't be :)
I think manual with auto iso is the best option. You set the aperture to desired value, shutter speed reciprocal of focal length, so as to minimize blur due to camera shake. The Auto iso will take care of the rest. For broad day light, I choose aperture between f/8-f/11, shutter speed 1/f and the iso will adjust itself to the lowest value possible. For landscape shots, I tend to keep iso fixed at 100 and f/8 and let the camera choose the shutter speed. The more, the better. The high iso noise can be easily removed using dxo photolab 2 in post process.
Yes, I think it all comes to personal preference, and also to what options the camera have. For example many Sony/Nikon cameras (even entry level), have such a wide range of minimum shutter speed for Auto ISO that you can select any value there. Of course, it's easier to set the shutter speed in Manual mode, then digging into the Menu system for Auto ISO settings :) So I totally get your point!
@@miklosmayerphoto yes, many a times I want to keep iso at minimum but have to choose a shutter speed which minimizes blur. So leaving the iso upto the camera is a great relief. Then we are free to decide what effect we want from other two parameters like depth of field and motion. I also learnt to stop worrying about noise, it can be corrected afterwards. As we gain wisdom, we make better photos and stop worrying about the gear.
OR, you could use a Pentax DSLR which has a dedicated mode on the dial for this function, and has been available on their cameras for approx 13 years. (TAV mode).
Aha, so that's why I couldn't find the Auto ISO function when I used a Pentak K-1!!! Once I wasted 15 minutes on that, and gave up :) Thanks for raising my attention to this! So basically Pentax is calling the same function in a different name, right?
I subscribed because you are a young intelligent guy who knows things in detail :-) Well explained! One thing I would add, AUTO ISO is best with Shutter Mode and not Aperture mode. Because it just lifts ISO to a level that is in tune with Focal length OR to prevent handshake. With Aperture Mode it is better to anticipate and raise ourselves.
Many cameras can use Auto ISO and Manual mode together. This lets you control depth of field with aperture, AND avoid motion blur by setting a fast enough shutter speed. When I'm shooting my 24mm f/2.8 lens, I set a shutter speed of 1/60 and an aperture of f/4, for better corner sharpness and less vignetting. The camera adjusts the ISO as needed. If I'm shooting with my 45mm f/1.8, I'll switch to 1/100 and f/2.8 as my "standard" setting.
True that! and I even say that in the video that you can do just that in Manual mode + Auto ISO. In fact, this is how I record video of the time. For video recording, 1/50 is best for 24fps (also to avoid to flicker in Europe), so I set 1/50 s shutter, plus a wide aperture and Auto ISO in Manual mode when recording videos.
Love your site, I am a Fuji enthusiast and would appreciate setting my camera using manual mode (aperture & shutter speed) and using auto iso and do fine adjustment in exposure compensation. For example, default sensitivity at 160, max. sensitivity at 12,800, min shutter speed at 125. My camera settings e.g. 200, f4.0, auto iso and exposure compensation on in command mode and using back button focusing. Can this be accomplished, I would appreciate your input, thanks!
Thanks! Yes, it's possible, exactly in the way you wrote! Set the aperture on the lens to the desired value, set the shutter speed to T (or to the desired speed), and go for Auto ISO setting. I don't have a Fuji in my hand, so I found an excellent article for you: www.jmpeltier.com/fujifilm-how-to-use-auto-iso/ I hope this helps! Fujis are super customizable, so I'm sure you won't have problems with it. Cheers!
I've been shooing autoISO for many years on a Nikon. I find that using this setting in Aperture Priority mode is prone to cause issues. Here's why - letting the camera choose the appropriate setting for shutter speed is risky and your ability to handhold versus mine will be different.Typically it picks one that is lower than the focal length of the lens. Dangerous! And, with a crop sensor, maybe more so. If you can figure out how to use autoISO, you can certainly figure out manual. Set your shutter speed, set your aperture and go!!!!!!! Rarely do I go above iso 6400. But, I want at least 1/250 on my 70-200 regardless if I'm shooting at 70 or 200mm. My camera is more than adequate at increased iso's versus trying to correct blur due to camera shake. I can get rid of noise, never get rid of blur.
Rich, in this case, just simply set the "Minimum shutter speed" under the Auto ISO Menu, to a given speed, like 1/320 when shooting with a 70-200. So it will be always faster than 1/320 second. Or, you can go "auto" minimal shutter speed, and you can fine tune that even more, by going 1-2-3 stops faster than that. So let's say, the camera would set 1/30 minimum shutter speed for a 24mm lens, but if you set "2 stops faster auto minimum shutter speed", then it will set 1/120 second (4x times faster than 1/30). But you're completely right in that if somebody can figure these things out, then they can shoot in Manual mode, too :)
Auto ISO: why let the camera do the exposure work and screw it up? Cameras are dumb. You're going to want to expose for either highlights or shadows most of the time, let your eyeball be the guide. WYSIWYG baby. Oh, no decent pro photographer uses auto ISO BTW.
In every camera, you can specify the range in which the Auto ISO allowed to go up. So if you're concerned about noise, just set the max. ISO speed to the level you're comfortable with.
Industry Standards Organization Yes, Auto allows faster picture taking. this camera snapped in bright daylight iso auto went to 10 Ten , as tagged settings in the header of the file . shutter speed auto went to about 2 milli seconds . the minimum Manual iso setting is 50 . The pic was incredibly clear and sharp . apparently , Auto can reach settings that are NOT available with Manual settings . This makes Auto an even better choice .
@@miklosmayerphoto yes, 10 Ten . Manually setting iso bottoms out at 50 . phone camera s23 ultra . all File Header info from the phone's photo viewer Details and from computer Details reads: iso 10 . i can NOT verify it is actaully 10 , but the info in the File says iso 10 . in fact , when iso is set to Auto in the camera app. and i manually adjust shutter speed, i can see the iso digits go from 10 , 12 , 100 , 3200 ,... more confidence it actually does iso 10 . if you know someone with s23 ultra try it using the default samung camera app. You know more about cameras than i do, let everyone know what you find out . P.S. 100x Space zoom takes a pretty good moon shot ( full moon last night )
if one wants to choose f number and SS manually then get right ISO automatically then do exposure compensation, Pentax TAv mode is the best. Nikon can do same with Manual mode + ISO Auto. Old Canon cameras cannot do.
Thanks, I haven't used TAv mode on Pentax, so I didn't know that. Indeed, older Canon cameras had no customization for Auto ISO at all. Luckily the newer ones are bit better, but in the "lower" camera segment the Nikons are way more sophisticated
Hi bro! What about Custom Functions? Nr.3 Exposion (safety switch). Should i put in ON/OFF? I know it's playing with the highlights.. nice video btw helps a lot
@@miklosmayerphoto i mean C.Fn I: Exposure Safety shift enable/disable on a canon 250d , thanks for the smooth answer bro! btw: it really helped your video. i was taking all my shots at iso 100 and i did not understand why on auto my photo where better. Love you!
Life saver! Thanks for the nikon tip! The "slow/slower fast/faster" only works in M mode? (I have Nikon with VR lenses so I would like to take advantage of vr when I toggle it on)
You're welcome! No, "slow, slower" is only available when using Aperture priority mode with Auto ISO, set at automatic minimum shutter speed option. When using M mode, YOU set the shutter speed manually, so the camera cannot change that.
That's a very good question. Most higher end cameras (especially) Nikons, you can set what the Auto ISO should jump to when the camera has a flash on it. On most Canons, it jumps to ISO 400.
Hello I have a bridge camera so it is a Fix Lens on some sort, it's 24mm-84mm lens. Min Aperture is 2.8 and max of 11. Whenever I zoom in and out it change Aperture(I did a research and its called constant something) Also my setting does not have the setting to set a min and max for the ss and iso My question is, this will affect my portrait shots if ever?
Thanks Miklos! I have a Canon 6D (not MKII) and was working with Auto ISO last week. What I found was that when I put it into Manual mode, and Auto ISO, I no longer had exposure control (+/-). Ouch! Any thoughts?
If you're using Auto ISO, you should still be able to change the exposure compensation in Manual mode. If you can't, then maybe one of the settings is limiting it: like too much light with long shutter speed, and the ISO cannot compensate it
Thanks Ronald! I've used many cameras, and as I can remember, Manual mode + Auto ISO always works. Let's say you set 1/125 second and f/4 in Manual mode, and then activate Auto ISO. What will happen is that the camera will automatically change the ISO speed to match the lighting of the scene. If the scene is too bright, then the ISO will be flashing, meaning that the camera would like to set a lower ISO speed, but can't. Or if it's too dark, it's the same, the ISO will be blinking, indicating that the camera would like to set a higher ISO, but can't. So Manual mode + Auto ISO is best when you know the lights will change, but not in a dramatic way - maybe 2-5 stops. And also very useful for recording video, because there you want to keep the shutter speed constant, so Auto ISO is perfect to compensate for possible changes in lighting. Check out my Nikon Z5 video, where I used Manual mode + Auto ISO to record video. At the bottom left corner, note how the ISO speed changes: th-cam.com/video/ZTjjcZ-X29o/w-d-xo.html
@@miklosmayerphoto Thanks so much for your reply.. Especially that ISO icon will be flashing, and needs correcting. I always thought by ISO flashing, camera was in auto ISO mode.
@@ronaldwolf2599 You're welcome! When one of the exposure parameters is blinking that always means that the camera would like to change that, but it can't. For example, if you put your camera to aperture priority mode, and set a fast aperture like f/2.8 + high ISO speed and go to a sunny scene, then the shutter speed will be blinking. Because there's too much light, and the camera would like to use a faster shutter speed, but it can't set faster than 1/4000 second.
You cannot "stop" that. What happens in Manual mode is that the camera is still metering the scene, and tells you where the exposure you set manually falls according to its light-metering system. So if the light is changing, that marker is going to jump around.
@@arupkumarchanda3302 Oh, I forgot, you were using Auto ISO. If you have auto iso, then that exposure compensation mark should be at the same place. If it's jumping, then it means that the range of Auto ISO cannot cover what's needed. Maybe the auto ISO cannot go high enough, or cannot go low enough.
@@miklosmayerphoto BUT i have used earlier at that time my EV value remains static in Manual + Auto ISO. Can you pls check once what settings can resolve this issue?
Chak, in the video I have a Canon 6D Mk I. Just yesterday there was a Canon 70D in my hands, and I checked its Auto ISO settings. It is exactly the same as in the video. This makes sense, because the Canon 70D and 6D were released roughly at the same time. So on the Canon 70D, for Minimum Shutter Speed there is "Auto" setting (this cannot be customized further), or you can set Min shutter speeds manually starting from 1/250 seconds. Hope this helps you!
I would say the 70D has a noisy sensor at high ISO. I traded mine for a 6D mk1 with Canon's Digic 5+ sensor which is very clean so I use Auto ISO all the time now in Manual mode.
I hate using auto ISO because the camera always sets the ISO too high. I don't need my camera choosing 400, 800 or higher ISO for a shot where I know 200 is adequate enough. Having control over the ISO is much much better.
As everything with photography, setting the ISO is completely your choice. Auto ISO features depend heavily on the camera - newer ones have a much more sophisticated setup, and can be very useful in quickly changing conditions. But if you have an older camera, with not many options for Auto ISO, then setting the ISO manually is probably better. Cheers from Hungary
@@miklosmayerphoto I forgot to mention I mostly use my D300, so noise can be a problem for me which is why I prefer control. I would gather with newer cameras the ISO goes a lot higher and is able to deal with noise a lot better. I think also I'm so used to setting it myself it's basically second nature to me working with a limited range. I do love my older cameras though. Just ordered a powershot G11 so I'm looking forward to getting out with that. Also I must add that my noise problem is not so bad when I use my primes and I have learnt over time how to become a statue when shooting lower shutter speeds. So there's that :)
Hi. Please can you assist me. I have a canon 90d . How do I deactivate the auto iso. I have a trigger and external flash connected. After a few photos which I set the iso and aperture aswell as shutter speed on manual mode. The iso jumps to auto iso. Please assist
I think I found what you're looking for... See page 174 here: www.lensrentals.com/product-assets/2fdb22ab-d2f9-41dd-9236-0f622385fb29/eos90d-ug2-en.pdf It says if you're in Continuous shooting priority mode with selected external flashes, the ISO switches to Auto ISO.
It's because there's not enough light, and the camera cannot push the ISO further up. So instead it has to set a longer shutter speed. Try the same in sunlight, and it will work just as in the video. Cheers
I'm a nikon 5600 user n after setting the minimum shutter speed in the iso sensitivity panel it would still fluctuates to the lower speed n not stick to the minimum set shutter speed...what could be the issue ?? (Using Aperture priority)
This usually happens if the scene is too dark, and even with the max ISO, the camera is not able to have the desired shutter speed. If you try it in sunlight, see what happens.
hi i have a canon 80d with a tamron 18-400 lens would it be ok to set my shutter speed to 1/125 minium and set my iso to auto and appature to 8 or 9 i generally shoot wildlife
That really depends on a lot of things: - are you hand holding the lens? - do you have image stabilisation? - is your subject moving? and most importantly: what focal length you're using? For example, if you're at 18mm, shooting landscapes, 1/30th second is fine. But if you're at 200mm, shooting birds, you'll need at least 1/400 second. This is where I recommend to set the minimum shutter speed in the Auto ISO setting to set for "Auto". And the camera will take into account the focal length as well (well, in theory).
Yes, I very often use that, too! Also super helpful for videos, if you want to keep aperture & shutter speed constant, but want to keep up with the lights changing.
@@miklosmayerphoto Why advise againt well made feature packed camera's? Let me guess....err. terrible autofocus - not true. Not the best in the world, but not terrible. ...errr. not enough lenses, - not true, more than enough professional grade lenses for Pentax, the one exception being a current tilt/shift. and plenty of stellar grade film era lenses that all meter and work on any Pentax body, with the improvement of modern image stabilisation.
@@wizofoz0605 Two main reasons I advise people against buying Pentax cameras: 1. Pentax execs clearly stating that they are not interested into moving mirrorless - where the whole world is going, and everybody sees how much better mirrorless cameras got over DSLR in the last 3 years. 2. I live in Hungary, and they don't even officially sell Pentax here - they used to 10 years ago, but not now. I don't see Sigma, Tamron announcing great and affordable lenses for Pentax. Not to mention, that I've met 800+ photographers in the recent 5 years, and only ONE of them was using Pentax. Meaning there's a much smaller community, much less second hand options, and much less possibility to sell your Pentax gear. Buying Pentax now would be like getting boarding a boat that will remain harboured, while all the others are sailing out.
What a weird decision to show the ISO the photo will be shot in only on halfpress. You could as well permanently display the real ISO so I can compensate with a different SS or A right away before halfpressing. The info that I’m in e.g. A3 let’s me already know what my max ISO is so displaying this info with no halfpress is useless and by far not as important as updating the real ISO before halfpressing.
It's indeed strange, but that's how most brands do it - because the "metering" starts when you half-press the shutter button, so until then the camera would not know what to display there.
@@miklosmayerphoto But exposure compensation always displays love if it’s too low or high, e.g. when using DR or AEL-ing in something and then panning to a lighter or darker area. Exp Comp is live, so why not ISO. And why not display Exp Comp or ISO in red when boundaries are hit as an indicator.
Why so difficult explained. It sounds like you choose the ISO in auto-ISO, but that is not the case. You just choose a shutterspeed and aperture, and in the meantime also keep your eye on what is does with the automatic produced ISO. If you feel that the ISO value becomes too high (which creates noice), think if you can slower the shutterspeed or open the aperture more. If not, stick with the high ISO noise.
The whole point of the Auto ISO is that I do NOT want to keep an eye for the ISO - the camera will calculate the best value for me, automatically. Not having to keep an eye on the ISO is super useful in situations with varying lighting and where speed is crucial. Of course, the camera sometimes will not know what I would like to achieve, so in that case I would indeed change the ISO manually.
@@miklosmayerphoto Even if you set your camera to auto-ISO, as a professional, you should keep an eye on the ISO value, because there you can see if the ISO gets high and if there is a way that you can compensate for it. For example, if your shutterspeed is faster than you need for a picture, and therefore the ISO high, you can lower your shutterspeed to avoid unnesecarry grain and loss of dynamic range. Just always take a look at the ISO and if its high, ask yourself, is it nesecarry? If so, fine, shoot with the high ISO. If not, avoid grain and loss of dynamic range. That is why you need to keep the ISO level in your mind. But thats me.
Luckily, in the Auto ISO settings, you can tell the camera which ISO speed should be the maximum. But I do agree with you that you have to keep an eye on the ISO, especially at low light conditions. But when I'm shooting in bright situations, I like the comfort of Auto ISO - in that case I know that the ISO speed will be on the lower side anyway (like 100 - 400), so I don't have worry about noise, but I can enjoy the camera's automatic features.
Thank you. Well explained. Makes sense.
Thanks for the feedback :) Trying my best to explain as simple as possible
sir please explaint Nikon d750 aperture priorty mod Auto iso setting please
Great video! I've watched hours of TH-cam videos and yours is the first to have an explanation that my brain can absorb... Thanks again!!
Thank you so much, I'm really happy to hear this :)
I have a Canon EOS 5D...inherited from my daughter, a professional photog. I am a senior who uses my camera to set up portraits or landscapes that I can then paint. Appreciate your detailed video. Could not find an ISO auto setting. Will have to do with what I have. Very grateful nonetheless. Thank you.
Watched your other video about Aperture Priority mode. You changed the way I shoot. Thank you. Subscribed.
Wow, what a comment, glad to hear this!
Wow, what a comment, glad to hear that! :)
I don't understand, why your videos have such low views and subscribers. I almost never subscribe or comment on TH-cam but I'll make an exception here. Your work is GOLD STANDARD! Hang on for a little while on 'TH-cam' and if still you don't get any encouraging numbers then you must switch/extend to other platforms like Udemy, Masterclass, Skillshare....
I believe you're going horribly wrong with SEO stuff...
Wish you the very best... Thanks for the video :)
That's the kindest comment on my channel yet, thank you Sachish! :)
On TH-cam you need time to gain traction, especially with such high level of competition. Plus I'm based in Hungary, so I can't have access to all those new cameras like my fellow youtubers in the US, where renting is ultra-cheap.
So I have to work hard, but I luckily the people are picking up my content, and my views are going up :)
Cheers and thanks for subscribing :)
I have a Nikon D 7100. I use Auto ISO and Manual mode. I like complete control of my aperture and shutter speed. You did a great job on explaining this. There is just another photographer on line who does it.
Thank you Don :)
Great tips Miklós! You’re and excelled teacher.
Thank you Michael :)
Well explained video. I use manual mode most of the time, and set ISO on auto or a set No depending on the scene. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Colin, glad you liked it!
This was very thought provoking and helpful for me. Thank you very much!
You're welcome Alan!
Thank you, very nicely explained without wasting time
Flora, that's my number one goal, so I'm happy to hear that :))
Thank you for your very informative video! I do use auto ISO most of the time also!😃
thank you Rob!
Very good video, very clear. I always use the aperture priority mode with ISO Auto, paying attention to the exposure time. High ISO noise is preferable to a blurry photo. The newer cameras generate less and less noise at higher ISOs, in addition, softwares like Lightroom, Nik, DxO Optics, etc., have well-developed tools to remove noise.
Thank you Claudio! I absolutely agree with you - a noisy photo is better than a blurred one! :)
Many people are afraid to raise the ISO, but they shouldn't be :)
Thanks very Great Video keep up the great work May God bless you always 🙏🏿
Yes I do use it save me time ,thank you for your video ,I'm still learning and you video helps a lot.
Thank you Manuel!
Thanks for your fast response, website you mentioned was very informative!
You're welcome!
Dot on the NIKON ISO seting on DSLR ..Easy and practical video, thank you once again!
You're welcome!
I think manual with auto iso is the best option. You set the aperture to desired value, shutter speed reciprocal of focal length, so as to minimize blur due to camera shake. The Auto iso will take care of the rest. For broad day light, I choose aperture between f/8-f/11, shutter speed 1/f and the iso will adjust itself to the lowest value possible.
For landscape shots, I tend to keep iso fixed at 100 and f/8 and let the camera choose the shutter speed. The more, the better.
The high iso noise can be easily removed using dxo photolab 2 in post process.
Yes, I think it all comes to personal preference, and also to what options the camera have. For example many Sony/Nikon cameras (even entry level), have such a wide range of minimum shutter speed for Auto ISO that you can select any value there. Of course, it's easier to set the shutter speed in Manual mode, then digging into the Menu system for Auto ISO settings :) So I totally get your point!
@@miklosmayerphoto yes, many a times I want to keep iso at minimum but have to choose a shutter speed which minimizes blur. So leaving the iso upto the camera is a great relief. Then we are free to decide what effect we want from other two parameters like depth of field and motion. I also learnt to stop worrying about noise, it can be corrected afterwards. As we gain wisdom, we make better photos and stop worrying about the gear.
@@Dave_en Exactly as you say :) Especially about stop worrying about noise - many people worry about that too much!
Nice job Miklos!!
Thanks ;)
great tutorial.....keep up the good work..
Thanks :)
Many thanks. Looking forward to getting out to try this method..👍👏👏👏😃
Good luck with it! I mean, you don't need luck, because it's easy :)
I shoot a d4s: Aperture priority, auto ISO. Depending on venue, lighting scenes can change in a second.
Thank you! Same reasoning for me, too!
Hello and thank you for this video.
Are you still a photo tour guide in Budapest ? I'm planning to be there next year in June.
Yes, I am! :)
Here's my website, you can book a tour here:
hungaryphototours.com
@@miklosmayerphoto Ok, thanks ! :)
You make it very easy to understand! Thank You….
Glad to hear that 😁
OR, you could use a Pentax DSLR which has a dedicated mode on the dial for this function, and has been available on their cameras for approx 13 years. (TAV mode).
Aha, so that's why I couldn't find the Auto ISO function when I used a Pentak K-1!!!
Once I wasted 15 minutes on that, and gave up :)
Thanks for raising my attention to this!
So basically Pentax is calling the same function in a different name, right?
Thanks Miklos 😌
thank you sooo much .you are a star
That was very good information Thank You
You're welcome John
Nice video , thanks!
It was an impressive presentation 👌
I subscribed because you are a young intelligent guy who knows things in detail :-) Well explained!
One thing I would add, AUTO ISO is best with Shutter Mode and not Aperture mode. Because it just lifts ISO to a level that is in tune with Focal length OR to prevent handshake. With Aperture Mode it is better to anticipate and raise ourselves.
Vimal, I'm sure you meant "guy", not "gay", but thank you so much for the feedback! :)
@@miklosmayerphoto Yes! Corrected! :-)
Thank you Vimal :)
a very Smart move 👍🏼
thanks for the complete explanation jac new york
You're welcome!
Thank you so much 😊. Your video is very helpful.👍👍👍
You're welcome! :)
Very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome!
Well explained. Great video
Thank you!
Many cameras can use Auto ISO and Manual mode together. This lets you control depth of field with aperture, AND avoid motion blur by setting a fast enough shutter speed. When I'm shooting my 24mm f/2.8 lens, I set a shutter speed of 1/60 and an aperture of f/4, for better corner sharpness and less vignetting. The camera adjusts the ISO as needed. If I'm shooting with my 45mm f/1.8, I'll switch to 1/100 and f/2.8 as my "standard" setting.
True that! and I even say that in the video that you can do just that in Manual mode + Auto ISO.
In fact, this is how I record video of the time. For video recording, 1/50 is best for 24fps (also to avoid to flicker in Europe), so I set 1/50 s shutter, plus a wide aperture and Auto ISO in Manual mode when recording videos.
Thanks!! Miklos for your very apt and helpful video.
Happy to hear that :)
Very easy to understand! Thanks
You are very welcome!
I am also curious why people use M mode, but not Av. I use Av almost always.
Anyway, well explained.
We use M mode when we want the same exposure consistently. For example in studio, using flash, or at night.
Thank for the information that is smart
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video and tutorial 👌
Thanks :)
Wow
Very good!
Thank you!
Love your site, I am a Fuji enthusiast and would appreciate setting my camera using manual mode (aperture & shutter speed) and using auto iso and do fine adjustment in exposure compensation. For example, default sensitivity at 160, max. sensitivity at 12,800, min shutter speed at 125. My camera settings e.g. 200, f4.0, auto iso and exposure compensation on in command mode and using back button focusing. Can this be accomplished, I would appreciate your input, thanks!
Thanks!
Yes, it's possible, exactly in the way you wrote! Set the aperture on the lens to the desired value, set the shutter speed to T (or to the desired speed), and go for Auto ISO setting.
I don't have a Fuji in my hand, so I found an excellent article for you:
www.jmpeltier.com/fujifilm-how-to-use-auto-iso/
I hope this helps! Fujis are super customizable, so I'm sure you won't have problems with it. Cheers!
Yes but with that higher iso noise creeps in, would it not be better to lower the shutters speed to get more light in
If Auto ISO is set up well, the ISO should not go higher than otherwise
I've been shooing autoISO for many years on a Nikon. I find that using this setting in Aperture Priority mode is prone to cause issues. Here's why - letting the camera choose the appropriate setting for shutter speed is risky and your ability to handhold versus mine will be different.Typically it picks one that is lower than the focal length of the lens. Dangerous! And, with a crop sensor, maybe more so. If you can figure out how to use autoISO, you can certainly figure out manual. Set your shutter speed, set your aperture and go!!!!!!! Rarely do I go above iso 6400. But, I want at least 1/250 on my 70-200 regardless if I'm shooting at 70 or 200mm. My camera is more than adequate at increased iso's versus trying to correct blur due to camera shake. I can get rid of noise, never get rid of blur.
Rich, in this case, just simply set the "Minimum shutter speed" under the Auto ISO Menu, to a given speed, like 1/320 when shooting with a 70-200. So it will be always faster than 1/320 second.
Or, you can go "auto" minimal shutter speed, and you can fine tune that even more, by going 1-2-3 stops faster than that.
So let's say, the camera would set 1/30 minimum shutter speed for a 24mm lens, but if you set "2 stops faster auto minimum shutter speed", then it will set 1/120 second (4x times faster than 1/30).
But you're completely right in that if somebody can figure these things out, then they can shoot in Manual mode, too :)
Auto ISO: why let the camera do the exposure work and screw it up? Cameras are dumb. You're going to want to expose for either highlights or shadows most of the time, let your eyeball be the guide. WYSIWYG baby.
Oh, no decent pro photographer uses auto ISO BTW.
Nice video, thanks. What about ISO noise?
In every camera, you can specify the range in which the Auto ISO allowed to go up. So if you're concerned about noise, just set the max. ISO speed to the level you're comfortable with.
Industry Standards Organization
Yes, Auto allows faster picture taking.
this camera snapped in bright daylight
iso auto went to 10 Ten ,
as tagged settings in the header
of the file .
shutter speed auto
went to about 2 milli seconds .
the minimum
Manual iso setting is 50 .
The pic was incredibly clear and sharp .
apparently , Auto
can reach settings that are NOT available
with Manual settings .
This makes Auto
an even better choice .
ISO went to 10? Are you sure?
Isn't that ISO 1100?
@@miklosmayerphoto yes, 10 Ten . Manually setting iso bottoms out at 50 . phone camera s23 ultra . all File Header info from the phone's photo viewer Details and from computer Details reads: iso 10 . i can NOT verify it is actaully 10 , but the info in the File says iso 10 . in fact , when iso is set to Auto in the camera app. and i manually adjust shutter speed, i can see the iso digits go from 10 , 12 , 100 , 3200 ,... more confidence it actually does iso 10 . if you know someone with s23 ultra try it using the default samung camera app. You know more about cameras than i do, let everyone know what you find out . P.S. 100x Space zoom takes a pretty good moon shot ( full moon last night )
Good info, Thanks!
You're welcome :)
if one wants to choose f number and SS manually then get right ISO automatically then do exposure compensation, Pentax TAv mode is the best.
Nikon can do same with Manual mode + ISO Auto.
Old Canon cameras cannot do.
Thanks, I haven't used TAv mode on Pentax, so I didn't know that.
Indeed, older Canon cameras had no customization for Auto ISO at all. Luckily the newer ones are bit better, but in the "lower" camera segment the Nikons are way more sophisticated
Hi bro! What about Custom Functions? Nr.3 Exposion (safety switch). Should i put in ON/OFF? I know it's playing with the highlights..
nice video btw helps a lot
Which settings do you exactly mean and on which camera?
@@miklosmayerphoto i mean C.Fn I: Exposure Safety shift enable/disable on a canon 250d , thanks for the smooth answer bro!
btw: it really helped your video. i was taking all my shots at iso 100 and i did not understand why on auto my photo where better. Love you!
Life saver! Thanks for the nikon tip! The "slow/slower fast/faster" only works in M mode? (I have Nikon with VR lenses so I would like to take advantage of vr when I toggle it on)
You're welcome!
No, "slow, slower" is only available when using Aperture priority mode with Auto ISO, set at automatic minimum shutter speed option.
When using M mode, YOU set the shutter speed manually, so the camera cannot change that.
@@miklosmayerphoto makes sense. Thank you!
Hi, can you please advise how the auto ISO and shutter speeds works in an Apperture Priority mode if one uses a flash light?
That's a very good question. Most higher end cameras (especially) Nikons, you can set what the Auto ISO should jump to when the camera has a flash on it. On most Canons, it jumps to ISO 400.
Hello I have a bridge camera so it is a Fix Lens on some sort, it's 24mm-84mm lens.
Min Aperture is 2.8 and max of 11.
Whenever I zoom in and out it change Aperture(I did a research and its called constant something)
Also my setting does not have the setting to set a min and max for the ss and iso
My question is, this will affect my portrait shots if ever?
It changes the aperture when you zoom in-out, because the maximum aperture (lowest F number) also changes - that's how the lens is built.
Thanks Miklos! I have a Canon 6D (not MKII) and was working with Auto ISO last week. What I found was that when I put it into Manual mode, and Auto ISO, I no longer had exposure control (+/-). Ouch! Any thoughts?
If you're using Auto ISO, you should still be able to change the exposure compensation in Manual mode. If you can't, then maybe one of the settings is limiting it: like too much light with long shutter speed, and the ISO cannot compensate it
What lens are you using? Thank you.
In this video, the white lens is an old Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 (non-IS)
@@miklosmayerphoto Thank you.
What about GFX100S?
You are wow
Great video.
Will most DSLR cameras adjust ISO automatically, If camera is in manual mode? (Or does being in manual mode cancel out the auto ISO mode?
Thanks Ronald! I've used many cameras, and as I can remember, Manual mode + Auto ISO always works.
Let's say you set 1/125 second and f/4 in Manual mode, and then activate Auto ISO.
What will happen is that the camera will automatically change the ISO speed to match the lighting of the scene.
If the scene is too bright, then the ISO will be flashing, meaning that the camera would like to set a lower ISO speed, but can't.
Or if it's too dark, it's the same, the ISO will be blinking, indicating that the camera would like to set a higher ISO, but can't.
So Manual mode + Auto ISO is best when you know the lights will change, but not in a dramatic way - maybe 2-5 stops. And also very useful for recording video, because there you want to keep the shutter speed constant, so Auto ISO is perfect to compensate for possible changes in lighting.
Check out my Nikon Z5 video, where I used Manual mode + Auto ISO to record video.
At the bottom left corner, note how the ISO speed changes: th-cam.com/video/ZTjjcZ-X29o/w-d-xo.html
@@miklosmayerphoto Thanks so much for your reply.. Especially that ISO icon will be flashing, and needs correcting.
I always thought by ISO flashing, camera was in auto ISO mode.
@@ronaldwolf2599 You're welcome! When one of the exposure parameters is blinking that always means that the camera would like to change that, but it can't.
For example, if you put your camera to aperture priority mode, and set a fast aperture like f/2.8 + high ISO speed and go to a sunny scene, then the shutter speed will be blinking.
Because there's too much light, and the camera would like to use a faster shutter speed, but it can't set faster than 1/4000 second.
@@miklosmayerphoto Yes, I knew about the other programs blinking, just wasn't sure of the ISO blinking. Thanks for clarification:)
@@ronaldwolf2599 You're welcome Ronald :)
I use Auto- ISO and think its great.
The same here Jim :)
Nice. But pls tell why my Exposure Compensation is getting going up and down automatically while in Manual with Auto Iso mode? How to stop that.
You cannot "stop" that. What happens in Manual mode is that the camera is still metering the scene, and tells you where the exposure you set manually falls according to its light-metering system.
So if the light is changing, that marker is going to jump around.
@@miklosmayerphoto But my EV will overwrite the automatic value.
@@miklosmayerphoto Thanks for your reply ❤️💙
@@arupkumarchanda3302 Oh, I forgot, you were using Auto ISO. If you have auto iso, then that exposure compensation mark should be at the same place. If it's jumping, then it means that the range of Auto ISO cannot cover what's needed. Maybe the auto ISO cannot go high enough, or cannot go low enough.
@@miklosmayerphoto BUT i have used earlier at that time my EV value remains static in Manual + Auto ISO. Can you pls check once what settings can resolve this issue?
I use Manual mode with Auto ISO
I often do that when shooting video!
Thank you for your video. Which Canon model did you have there? Would you know if a Canon 70D can be configured like this. Thank you again!
Chak, in the video I have a Canon 6D Mk I.
Just yesterday there was a Canon 70D in my hands, and I checked its Auto ISO settings. It is exactly the same as in the video. This makes sense, because the Canon 70D and 6D were released roughly at the same time.
So on the Canon 70D, for Minimum Shutter Speed there is "Auto" setting (this cannot be customized further), or you can set Min shutter speeds manually starting from 1/250 seconds.
Hope this helps you!
I would say the 70D has a noisy sensor at high ISO. I traded mine for a 6D mk1 with Canon's Digic 5+ sensor which is very clean so I use Auto ISO all the time now in Manual mode.
I hate using auto ISO because the camera always sets the ISO too high. I don't need my camera choosing 400, 800 or higher ISO for a shot where I know 200 is adequate enough. Having control over the ISO is much much better.
As everything with photography, setting the ISO is completely your choice.
Auto ISO features depend heavily on the camera - newer ones have a much more sophisticated setup, and can be very useful in quickly changing conditions.
But if you have an older camera, with not many options for Auto ISO, then setting the ISO manually is probably better.
Cheers from Hungary
@@miklosmayerphoto I forgot to mention I mostly use my D300, so noise can be a problem for me which is why I prefer control. I would gather with newer cameras the ISO goes a lot higher and is able to deal with noise a lot better. I think also I'm so used to setting it myself it's basically second nature to me working with a limited range. I do love my older cameras though. Just ordered a powershot G11 so I'm looking forward to getting out with that. Also I must add that my noise problem is not so bad when I use my primes and I have learnt over time how to become a statue when shooting lower shutter speeds. So there's that :)
You could pass for Mathew Broderick's photographer brother.
Haha, I've never thought of that :) I googled him up, and I can see what you mean :)
Hi.
Please can you assist me.
I have a canon 90d .
How do I deactivate the auto iso.
I have a trigger and external flash connected.
After a few photos which I set the iso and aperture aswell as shutter speed on manual mode. The iso jumps to auto iso.
Please assist
I think I found what you're looking for...
See page 174 here:
www.lensrentals.com/product-assets/2fdb22ab-d2f9-41dd-9236-0f622385fb29/eos90d-ug2-en.pdf
It says if you're in Continuous shooting priority mode with selected external flashes, the ISO switches to Auto ISO.
in av mode i set minimum shutter at 1/125 and it still goes lower. can you explain why it doesn’t stay at mi 1/125 ? thankyou
It's because there's not enough light, and the camera cannot push the ISO further up. So instead it has to set a longer shutter speed.
Try the same in sunlight, and it will work just as in the video. Cheers
I use auto ISO on my Nikon D5300 min shutter speed 1/160
Great!
I'm a nikon 5600 user n after setting the minimum shutter speed in the iso sensitivity panel it would still fluctuates to the lower speed n not stick to the minimum set shutter speed...what could be the issue ?? (Using Aperture priority)
This usually happens if the scene is too dark, and even with the max ISO, the camera is not able to have the desired shutter speed.
If you try it in sunlight, see what happens.
hi i have a canon 80d with a tamron 18-400 lens would it be ok to set my shutter speed to 1/125 minium and set my iso to auto and appature to 8 or 9 i generally shoot wildlife
That really depends on a lot of things:
- are you hand holding the lens?
- do you have image stabilisation?
- is your subject moving?
and most importantly: what focal length you're using?
For example, if you're at 18mm, shooting landscapes, 1/30th second is fine.
But if you're at 200mm, shooting birds, you'll need at least 1/400 second.
This is where I recommend to set the minimum shutter speed in the Auto ISO setting to set for "Auto". And the camera will take into account the focal length as well (well, in theory).
Manual + Auto ISO is best.
Yes, I very often use that, too! Also super helpful for videos, if you want to keep aperture & shutter speed constant, but want to keep up with the lights changing.
or....you buy a camera that has this function available on the mode dial......like any Pentax camera of the past 15 or so years. Look up TAV mode.
Around early 2010s, I used to love Pentax cameras (user-friendly features, innovations), but nowadays I strongly advise against them.
@@miklosmayerphoto Why advise againt well made feature packed camera's?
Let me guess....err. terrible autofocus - not true. Not the best in the world, but not terrible. ...errr. not enough lenses, - not true, more than enough professional grade lenses for Pentax, the one exception being a current tilt/shift. and plenty of stellar grade film era lenses that all meter and work on any Pentax body, with the improvement of modern image stabilisation.
@@wizofoz0605 Two main reasons I advise people against buying Pentax cameras:
1. Pentax execs clearly stating that they are not interested into moving mirrorless - where the whole world is going, and everybody sees how much better mirrorless cameras got over DSLR in the last 3 years.
2. I live in Hungary, and they don't even officially sell Pentax here - they used to 10 years ago, but not now.
I don't see Sigma, Tamron announcing great and affordable lenses for Pentax.
Not to mention, that I've met 800+ photographers in the recent 5 years, and only ONE of them was using Pentax. Meaning there's a much smaller community, much less second hand options, and much less possibility to sell your Pentax gear.
Buying Pentax now would be like getting boarding a boat that will remain harboured, while all the others are sailing out.
What a weird decision to show the ISO the photo will be shot in only on halfpress. You could as well permanently display the real ISO so I can compensate with a different SS or A right away before halfpressing. The info that I’m in e.g. A3 let’s me already know what my max ISO is so displaying this info with no halfpress is useless and by far not as important as updating the real ISO before halfpressing.
It's indeed strange, but that's how most brands do it - because the "metering" starts when you half-press the shutter button, so until then the camera would not know what to display there.
@@miklosmayerphoto But exposure compensation always displays love if it’s too low or high, e.g. when using DR or AEL-ing in something and then panning to a lighter or darker area. Exp Comp is live, so why not ISO. And why not display Exp Comp or ISO in red when boundaries are hit as an indicator.
Why so difficult explained. It sounds like you choose the ISO in auto-ISO, but that is not the case. You just choose a shutterspeed and aperture, and in the meantime also keep your eye on what is does with the automatic produced ISO. If you feel that the ISO value becomes too high (which creates noice), think if you can slower the shutterspeed or open the aperture more. If not, stick with the high ISO noise.
The whole point of the Auto ISO is that I do NOT want to keep an eye for the ISO - the camera will calculate the best value for me, automatically.
Not having to keep an eye on the ISO is super useful in situations with varying lighting and where speed is crucial.
Of course, the camera sometimes will not know what I would like to achieve, so in that case I would indeed change the ISO manually.
@@miklosmayerphoto Even if you set your camera to auto-ISO, as a professional, you should keep an eye on the ISO value, because there you can see if the ISO gets high and if there is a way that you can compensate for it. For example, if your shutterspeed is faster than you need for a picture, and therefore the ISO high, you can lower your shutterspeed to avoid unnesecarry grain and loss of dynamic range. Just always take a look at the ISO and if its high, ask yourself, is it nesecarry? If so, fine, shoot with the high ISO. If not, avoid grain and loss of dynamic range. That is why you need to keep the ISO level in your mind. But thats me.
Luckily, in the Auto ISO settings, you can tell the camera which ISO speed should be the maximum. But I do agree with you that you have to keep an eye on the ISO, especially at low light conditions.
But when I'm shooting in bright situations, I like the comfort of Auto ISO - in that case I know that the ISO speed will be on the lower side anyway (like 100 - 400), so I don't have worry about noise, but I can enjoy the camera's automatic features.
he can almost not be able to say ISO because he had to pronounce the vowels properly ! he wanted to say ee s a !
???
No.