I have used several different methods of shaping my guitar necks. My router table is by far the fastest and easiest method I have regularly used but it isn’t the cheapest. The cheapest method I have ever used to round the back of a neck was to clamp the neck blank so that half of it was hanging off my workbench. I then draped a strip of sand paper over the back of the neck, grabbed both ends, and shaped a rounded back by alternately pulling the ends of the sandpaper up and down. I eventually had to swing the neck 180 degrees, reclamp, and continue sanding the other half of the neck. As long as you’re reasonably careful and regularly check the profile of the neck, this method works fine. It is, however, quite a slow way of doing things. A spoke shave is the second cheapest method I’ve used but I frankly think using a strip of sandpaper produces a better quality of neck. While spoke shaves are relatively cheap, they are still more expensive than a strip of sandpaper. Spoke shaves remove more wood per pass than does a strip of sandpaper. This speeds things up but also makes it much easier to destroy a neck if the spoke shave slips. Plus, one of my friends mistakenly thought the spoke shave on my workbench was a medieval torture device. Next, I used a hand router to make necks. While this method was relatively inexpensive and fast, I think it has the greatest potential of screwing up a neck. Hand routers are prone to occasionally move in directions other than the ones we would prefer. Given the nature of power tools, it only takes a split second for a hand router to slip and destroy a neck. Jigs, templates, and solid clamping methods help minimize the risk but I found that I was inevitably destroying a few necks no matter how careful I was. Things just get more expensive from there. Router tables and specialized machines can quickly produce good quality necks but they are relatively expensive. Most people who are just learning to build guitars or who build guitars as a hobby don’t have access to a great deal of expensive and/or specialized machinery. They usually end up using cheaper and slower methods such as those discussed above. I typically recommend that people who are new to guitar building start with those kinds of methods for a variety of reasons. One major reason is that they tend to be far more readily available to the average person. A second major reason is that it can be very useful to be skilled using such methods if your expensive machine has broken down or your power has gone out. I’m presently building my first electric ukulele. I wasn’t quite sure about how I wanted the neck to turn out. I decided to use slower hand building techniques because this allows me to better notice small issues that may be developing and to make changes as I go. Thus, I am using the hand sanding method to shape the curved back of the neck despite the fact my router table is just a few feet away. I’m certain that I will use my router table on any future electric ukuleles I might build but I prefer slower hand methods for prototyping.
Thanks for a great overview of you experience on the subject. Also it's wise words on increasing expenses associated with more advanced (and not always the best) methods used. We all try to save out time and minimize our effort and everyone finds his preferred work techniques (that are subject to change).
I think a third major reason is that hand tools allow you to learn a lot about the naure and physical properties of the materials you're working with, while power tools keep you more distanced. You can move to power more successfully when you know the wood intimately.
I found you from Dylans trip to see you. Since then I've been checking out your videos. They have proved to be priceless for me. I am just starting to do full builds. I've repaired them and messed around with them for years. Im an artist and want to transfer my art to guitars. I definitely need help and have found so many videos you have very helpful. I just wanted to stop and take a minute to thank you.
@@TexasToastGuitars I totally am. I going to end up watching so many you have. I value them a lot. I'm glad he went to go see you. That was a great idea. Rock on
I was inspired by your dead head last year and built one from a grizzly sander that was sitting dormant. I haven't ruined any necks yet but it is very easy to remove to much material. I also used it to flush SS frets to edge of the board on a couple necks. To be totally honest I have trouble watching both ends of the neck at once. But I've got 5 strat style necks to do and that should get me dialed in. Great video Matt and Chris!
@@TexasToastGuitars, well most of my business is repair. I build one or two guitars a year and have always hand carved the necks. I'm going to build those 5 strat necks and put them up on reverb when time alows.
@@TexasToastGuitars We had different blocks for different models. One block for the ES-335, ES-345, a block for the ES-175 and another block for customs. I worked in the Memphis factory. We only made semi-hollow bodies there. So, three different "dead head" sanders.
I always thought "dead head" referred to the person doing the sanding :) Seriously though, thanks for doing this video, its really great to see how you guys have ironed out a lot of the process for guitar building.
I mentioned Oslong Sandpaper & Discs before, but try some 3M Resinite Floor Paper for quick wood removal. I use 80 Grit, but they make a 60 Grit, 100 and 150. This Sandpaper is specifically made for Rapid wood removal. It's what the Hardwood Floor Man uses because it's made to Cut. Wrap a piece around a 1×2 board, a 5 gallon bucket stir stick or anything that suits You. You won't believe how quickly it cuts and how long it lasts. God Bless Y'all. Jimmy in NC....
@@TexasToastGuitars No I'm not a Rep for anything I've mentioned to You. It's just that since 1972 I've used every kinda Sandpaper there is. Oslong is hands Down the Best a 3M Resinite is the best for Rapid Wood Removal. I only recommended them to You as a Friend to Help You. Oslong is so good I recommended it to a Luthier in Scotland, Murray Macleod who's been building and repairing Guitars for more than 50 years. Murray used to order all His sandpaper from a place here in Raleigh NC about 3p miles from My house. He tried the Oslong cancelled His Raleigh order and now uses nothing else. I wish I'd known about Oslong sooner Myself. I only found out about it a couple years ago. You don't have to use it. I was just trying to help You that's all. God 🙏 Y'all. Jimmy in NC....
I rough round mine with the front wheel of a five dollar sears garage sale belt sander with 60 grit belt, then use a cut 60 grit belt like shinning the toe of a boot, works great then fine tune with 80 and 120 ect hand paper. It's cheap any way, with great results.
Really love and appreciate your youtube channel. Such dedication and knowledge has helped me ease into guitar building with more confidence. Thank you ! Stay safe my friend.
If you look carefully about where the knuckles of your left hand are when using your sander (7:20-8:00), is that static electricity arcing on the frame? Cool vid, thanks!!
You have alot of tools I don't have room for (or money) I've reshaped a couple necks on cheep guitars using files foam Sanders and long strips of sandpaper like when yourdrying your back. It took a while
nice setup matt ...uniformity every time great idea for mass construction ...u need to throw a clip of the coyote an anvils from acme to fill in the crowd who missed the joke
Great stuff! Time for me to re-up my Patreon support. It lapsed when our credit cards expired and I was just too lazy to renew. But I'll do that today. Keep on making sawdust.
I didn't check all of the comments, but could you please try a different camera angle next time? Your arm was right in front of the head where you were shaping the neck, both times. Great job on that machine mod! I didn't know you could get custom length sanding belts! I think you gave me some good ideas!! Thanks much!! --gary
7/8 round over bit, $26 at local mom and pop hardware store. Going to retire Beaver Cleaver the homemade drawknife, maybe sharpen him one more time, put him in an ornate frame with a light Thanks again.
great video, great commentary and great pro tips ... if you're a professional woodworker or guitar builder and you can figure out to build you're own deadhead sander ... switch professions ...
@@TexasToastGuitars I was just joking about the entirely hand built thing. I suppose it is possible to build guitars using only hand tools, but power tools make it so much easier. I don't think it makes any difference how the wood is cut and shaped. I think it is the selection of materials, the design, the attention to detail, care, skill and time given to each guitar that matters.
@@TexasToastGuitars When I was at work, I asked my boss if I could grab a router bit (we import them in Oz) - yeah no worries. I come out with this huge 7/8 round over and he says "I didn't think you wanted one that big, what are your doing with it"? Oh nothing, just cutting a few trees down" ;)
Made me think back to woodworking days. I'm bet I could find a Horizontal Belt Sander (table mounted) and build out the extra surface area; on the back side. Hmmmmm.....
As always thanks for sharing. Quick one for ya. Whats the bandsaw blade you use in your other vids where you are cutting the neck? Also curious why you are using the router table and not the pin router in this vid? Thanks
Gibson use a similar sander to shape 335 necks. You can see it in recent videos. Strikes me as odd since they have a rather large CNC setup, but that’s Gibson for ya!
I would bet that anyone using a sander at Gibson these days if for a promotional video, I don't know for sure but that seems like it would lend some "hand made" mojo to the experience
But how do you get the neck depth slope along the neck with this method (thicker at the heal and shallower at the headstock)? Obviously this bit gives you even neck depth.
The router is a great tip to give you a head start!.Is that a 1" roundover bit? I wish there was a cool trick like that for angled headstock necks, lol
Would the copy carver machine work for shaping the necks. Seems like it would eliminate human error and you're only setting up 1 machine. another bonus is that you might be able to set up several necks at a time and all at different shapes?
@@TexasToastGuitars I am afraid of spending time on the fret board , gluing it , then ruining the neck after pressing on tbe frets. So I presume there is an avantage the way you do it?
It seems like the length from volute to heel is somewhat set, though, to a 16-fret neck design. Not a problem for the majority of your work, but what about 14- or even 12-fret lengths. Straight from the router table to hand shaping?
So I guess you'd have to go with another method for a neck with an angled headstock, right? Since it wouldn't have a completely flat surface to use to slide down the router table. Also, do y'all use the same type of poly on necks that you use on the bodies?
You got it right on both CC. Sometimes we just go right to the sander for angled headstocks. The sealer, basecoat and clear are used on any and all parts of the guitars we make. We can do oil finish necks but only on customer requests
New pin router next, know your busy w/ other shit but...the suspense, hopefully before ya get into the next class series. That sander makes quick work of the bulk excess in the neck. What rough board size do you start w/ on neck blanks, 8/4?
I have used Steve's and it is pretty cool. However, I prefer the old school tools and the deadhead sander is certainly that. They are actually still in use at Fender Gibson and even Warmoth has one. Do you have a neck contour jig? I'd love to see your version. They are super cool & I do love tools
@@TexasToastGuitars the thickness before the dead head sander seemed just fine for me, measured by eye. What was that?? Thanks for all your content ive learned so much.. but not gone any smarter😁😁
Hey Matt… what material did you cover the plywood with for the back of the belt to run over ? I would think there would be a lot of friction build up there ???
All our necks are custom specified by the customer. Sometimes they are but most times they are not. When I shape necks for myself they are .86 at the first fret and .90 at the 12th.
Don’t you guys have tilt linishers in the states ? Kinda shocked you had to fabricate your own and also had to find custom belts. We have these in high school woodwork classes here in Australia.
We have linishers but they're really more for tool finishing (sharpening) and pipe-work - it would still take a ton of customization to really make one work in this fashion (the working orientation is generally all wrong) . Add to that the fact that the belts are typically narrow it's not really as good a solution as this. We've got oscillating belt sanders that are more akin to this piece that Matt uses - but they are crazy-expensive in sizes best suited to neck work (like US$5k)
Don Vanco that sounds like a bed / flat run linisher, tilts over here are found in most cabinet maker’s shops, you wouldn’t use them for tools because of the long belt and the chance that said tool would puncture and send the belt flying across the room :) maybe we just use different names. My point was this exact type of machine is really common , you can pick them up quite cheap at any local Bunnings. And that’s what shocks me as usually we are the ones who need to order or fabricate tools we only have a population of 27 m
You mentioned a few times that yours isn’t a real dead head sander and that you’d get into why, but I never caught what made yours not a real dead head sander.
I did say that didn't I... a real dead head sander has a platen with no drive wheels opposite the drive. since it doesn't spin it is dead. The old school ones were shaped like a triangle. They might have been tricky to adjust but I don't know.
Oh man ! You guys made me lol. Anvils and dynamite. ACME : A Company that Makes Everything. The road-runner would be proud.
Not everyone will get that joke HAHAHA
Nooo
Coyote I use alway acme hehehehe
Super cool man! what size round over bit do I need?
I have used several different methods of shaping my guitar necks. My router table is by far the fastest and easiest method I have regularly used but it isn’t the cheapest. The cheapest method I have ever used to round the back of a neck was to clamp the neck blank so that half of it was hanging off my workbench. I then draped a strip of sand paper over the back of the neck, grabbed both ends, and shaped a rounded back by alternately pulling the ends of the sandpaper up and down. I eventually had to swing the neck 180 degrees, reclamp, and continue sanding the other half of the neck. As long as you’re reasonably careful and regularly check the profile of the neck, this method works fine. It is, however, quite a slow way of doing things.
A spoke shave is the second cheapest method I’ve used but I frankly think using a strip of sandpaper produces a better quality of neck. While spoke shaves are relatively cheap, they are still more expensive than a strip of sandpaper. Spoke shaves remove more wood per pass than does a strip of sandpaper. This speeds things up but also makes it much easier to destroy a neck if the spoke shave slips. Plus, one of my friends mistakenly thought the spoke shave on my workbench was a medieval torture device.
Next, I used a hand router to make necks. While this method was relatively inexpensive and fast, I think it has the greatest potential of screwing up a neck. Hand routers are prone to occasionally move in directions other than the ones we would prefer. Given the nature of power tools, it only takes a split second for a hand router to slip and destroy a neck. Jigs, templates, and solid clamping methods help minimize the risk but I found that I was inevitably destroying a few necks no matter how careful I was.
Things just get more expensive from there. Router tables and specialized machines can quickly produce good quality necks but they are relatively expensive. Most people who are just learning to build guitars or who build guitars as a hobby don’t have access to a great deal of expensive and/or specialized machinery. They usually end up using cheaper and slower methods such as those discussed above. I typically recommend that people who are new to guitar building start with those kinds of methods for a variety of reasons. One major reason is that they tend to be far more readily available to the average person. A second major reason is that it can be very useful to be skilled using such methods if your expensive machine has broken down or your power has gone out.
I’m presently building my first electric ukulele. I wasn’t quite sure about how I wanted the neck to turn out. I decided to use slower hand building techniques because this allows me to better notice small issues that may be developing and to make changes as I go. Thus, I am using the hand sanding method to shape the curved back of the neck despite the fact my router table is just a few feet away. I’m certain that I will use my router table on any future electric ukuleles I might build but I prefer slower hand methods for prototyping.
Lots of great ways to do that job sounds like you have found some good ways that work for you
Thanks for a great overview of you experience on the subject. Also it's wise words on increasing expenses associated with more advanced (and not always the best) methods used. We all try to save out time and minimize our effort and everyone finds his preferred work techniques (that are subject to change).
I think a third major reason is that hand tools allow you to learn a lot about the naure and physical properties of the materials you're working with, while power tools keep you more distanced. You can move to power more successfully when you know the wood intimately.
That's one hell of a knuckle remover! Keep it safe Matt.
I imagine a bite from this thing is not something you forget quickly....
Believe it or not... it isn't too bad
I found you from Dylans trip to see you. Since then I've been checking out your videos. They have proved to be priceless for me. I am just starting to do full builds. I've repaired them and messed around with them for years. Im an artist and want to transfer my art to guitars. I definitely need help and have found so many videos you have very helpful. I just wanted to stop and take a minute to thank you.
Thanks for watching Joe glad you are digging the videos man
@@TexasToastGuitars I totally am. I going to end up watching so many you have. I value them a lot. I'm glad he went to go see you. That was a great idea. Rock on
Your dead head sander somehow seems incomplete without a dead head sticker. ;)
The dead head sticker is on the Cadillac. The little voice said don't look back.
I was inspired by your dead head last year and built one from a grizzly sander that was sitting dormant. I haven't ruined any necks yet but it is very easy to remove to much material. I also used it to flush SS frets to edge of the board on a couple necks. To be totally honest I have trouble watching both ends of the neck at once. But I've got 5 strat style necks to do and that should get me dialed in. Great video Matt and Chris!
Your Dead-Head looks good to go, I'm kinda surprised to hear you aren't using it much
@@TexasToastGuitars, well most of my business is repair. I build one or two guitars a year and have always hand carved the necks. I'm going to build those 5 strat necks and put them up on reverb when time alows.
You should see the "dead head" sanders we used at Gibson. We roll necks very similar to the way you do it.
I'd love to see them Kevin
@@TexasToastGuitars We had different blocks for different models. One block for the ES-335, ES-345, a block for the ES-175 and another block for customs. I worked in the Memphis factory. We only made semi-hollow bodies there. So, three different "dead head" sanders.
Carved my last neck with a homemade drawknife.
Definitly looking into 7/8 round over bit.
Thanks, will now smash and subscribe
The round over bit will certainly make life a little easier my friend
I always thought "dead head" referred to the person doing the sanding :) Seriously though, thanks for doing this video, its really great to see how you guys have ironed out a lot of the process for guitar building.
That could be true too
I would love to know what the type/size, etc. of that router table bit you're using for the first roundover! What a great idea! Thanks in advance.
my strategy for building my (much smaller) sanding station was to buy the belts and discs first then build around those..
That could work too
I mentioned Oslong Sandpaper & Discs before, but try some 3M Resinite Floor Paper for quick wood removal. I use 80 Grit, but they make a 60 Grit, 100 and 150. This Sandpaper is specifically made for Rapid wood removal. It's what the Hardwood Floor Man uses because it's made to Cut. Wrap a piece around a 1×2 board, a 5 gallon bucket stir stick or anything that suits You. You won't believe how quickly it cuts and how long it lasts.
God Bless Y'all.
Jimmy in NC....
Are you a rep for this sandpaper?
@@TexasToastGuitars No I'm not a Rep for anything I've mentioned to You. It's just that since 1972 I've used every kinda Sandpaper there is. Oslong is hands Down the Best a 3M Resinite is the best for Rapid Wood Removal. I only recommended them to You as a Friend to Help You. Oslong is so good I recommended it to a Luthier in Scotland, Murray Macleod who's been building and repairing Guitars for more than 50 years. Murray used to order all His sandpaper from a place here in Raleigh NC about 3p miles from My house. He tried the Oslong cancelled His Raleigh order and now uses nothing else. I wish I'd known about Oslong sooner Myself. I only found out about it a couple years ago. You don't have to use it. I was just trying to help You that's all.
God 🙏 Y'all.
Jimmy in NC....
You're right, in the 1950's, ACME tools and machines were used in the Wile E Coyote Road Runner cartoons.
hahahaha
-def on my bucket list!
You will dig it brotherman
Boy, that sander is a cool device.
I rough round mine with the front wheel of a five dollar sears garage sale belt sander with 60 grit belt, then use a cut 60 grit belt like shinning the toe of a boot, works great then fine tune with 80 and 120 ect hand paper. It's cheap any way, with great results.
Really love and appreciate your youtube channel. Such dedication and knowledge has helped me ease into guitar building with more confidence. Thank you ! Stay safe my friend.
Great to hear Jeffrey
If you look carefully about where the knuckles of your left hand are when using your sander (7:20-8:00), is that static electricity arcing on the frame? Cool vid, thanks!!
Thanks so much for showing all your secrets!
I'm not showing y'all everything
@@TexasToastGuitars lol
Very informative vid, Matt. Thanx!!!
Reminds me of the specialty sanders we used @ the furniture factory, years ago.
An inflatable drum sander would work great for finishing the corners and heel.
It is a pretty awesome tool
I like that sander! I've watched guys shape them by hand and it definitely looks like too much work!👍😎🎸🎶
It can certainly be done... but it takes a while
There is something very Zen about hand shaping necks. But you can get all in your head about it or get it done.
@@TexasToastGuitars yep!☺
That is slicker than snot on a Door knob!
Whale shit in an ice flow
You have alot of tools I don't have room for (or money) I've reshaped a couple necks on cheep guitars using files foam Sanders and long strips of sandpaper like when yourdrying your back. It took a while
We do have a lot of tools... but we didn't always. Keep fighting the good fight my friend
Power tools are heaven👼
You got that right
Congrats on making Phil McKnights list yesterday. Well deserved recognition.
Thanks Michael, that was a nice surprise
You should invite him to the shop for a class or send him a daily driver review. Just a thought.
Looking great my dudes!
Thanks brotherman
What diameter is the round over bit you use for roughing in necks? Looks like a nice way to do that!
Hi Simon, it really depends on the thickness of the neck blank. We use 1/2, 3/4 and ideally 7/8
overhead shot of that process would be cool, im still using the old belt sander, strap that thing down to the bench LOL..
It's a bummer to have no camera man
I agree, the DH sander is the best
It totally rocks
nice setup matt ...uniformity every time great idea for mass construction ...u need to throw a clip of the coyote an anvils from acme to fill in the crowd who missed the joke
Anyone who missed the gag is too young HAHAHA
Great stuff! Time for me to re-up my Patreon support. It lapsed when our credit cards expired and I was just too lazy to renew. But I'll do that today. Keep on making sawdust.
Thanks Jim
Loving this channel. Subscribed.
I didn't check all of the comments, but could you please try a different camera angle next time? Your arm was right in front of the head where you were shaping the neck, both times. Great job on that machine mod! I didn't know you could get custom length sanding belts! I think you gave me some good ideas!! Thanks much!! --gary
Thanks Gary, we don't have a camera man and sometimes it's tricky
7/8 round over bit, $26 at local mom and pop hardware store.
Going to retire Beaver Cleaver the homemade drawknife, maybe sharpen him one more time, put him in an ornate frame with a light
Thanks again.
I hope you dig it my friend
Hey Texas Toast guys, Phil McKnight gave you guys a favorable plug on his show yesterday.
I saw that, very cool of him to do, good looking out Joseph
This is insane! When I tried to build a couple guitars a few years ago I spent hours scrapping it with a wood file. LoL.
The deadhead sander will radically speed things up, that's for sure.
great video, great commentary and great pro tips ... if you're a professional woodworker or guitar builder and you can figure out to build you're own deadhead sander ... switch professions ...
*can't figure out to build you're own deadhead sander ...
That makes more sense
And this is how we hand build guitars. No really... all entirely by hand ;-) .... I'm jealous, you have some great tools.
All our tools are guided by hands I'm sure you can see the difference between using this tools and using a CNC
@@TexasToastGuitars I was just joking about the entirely hand built thing. I suppose it is possible to build guitars using only hand tools, but power tools make it so much easier. I don't think it makes any difference how the wood is cut and shaped. I think it is the selection of materials, the design, the attention to detail, care, skill and time given to each guitar that matters.
What radius of cutter u use on table? Great as allways!
I should have said this in the video we use a bunch of bits... 1/2 , 3/4 and ideally 7/8 it kinda depends on the thickness of the neck
@@TexasToastGuitars When I was at work, I asked my boss if I could grab a router bit (we import them in Oz) - yeah no worries. I come out with this huge 7/8 round over and he says "I didn't think you wanted one that big, what are your doing with it"? Oh nothing, just cutting a few trees down" ;)
You always have great videos with great content.
Thanks my friend
Great as always you guys thanks
Thanks Kev
Great Velvet Jones reference
Made me think back to woodworking days. I'm bet I could find a Horizontal Belt Sander (table mounted) and build out the extra surface area; on the back side. Hmmmmm.....
Yeah dude go for it
I don’t even have to start the video to Write dead-head sander (I always thougth a deadhead was something else😁)
I went to Roberto-Venn with a lot of those guys
As always thanks for sharing. Quick one for ya. Whats the bandsaw blade you use in your other vids where you are cutting the neck? Also curious why you are using the router table and not the pin router in this vid? Thanks
We use Starret 3/8 bandsaw blades
I saw somebody do this with a grinder mounted on a swinging arm to make the neck shape
that sounds cool
Gibson use a similar sander to shape 335 necks. You can see it in recent videos. Strikes me as odd since they have a rather large CNC setup, but that’s Gibson for ya!
I would bet that anyone using a sander at Gibson these days if for a promotional video, I don't know for sure but that seems like it would lend some "hand made" mojo to the experience
But how do you get the neck depth slope along the neck with this method (thicker at the heal and shallower at the headstock)? Obviously this bit gives you even neck depth.
No you shim the neck in the sled
The router is a great tip to give you a head start!.Is that a 1" roundover bit? I wish there was a cool trick like that for angled headstock necks, lol
That bit is 3/4 or 7/8 I use both depending on the neck thickness. We did make a sled for our beloved pin router to do angled headstocks
2 axis router box - come at it from above - after watching this video thats what im planning to do with my latest build... that or a bespoke jig..
What size of round over bit do you use in the router
Say Matt, what diameter was that router bit?
What size is the router bit to get the nice curve thank you! Loved the video
It depends on the neck blank but if you can get away with 7/8 that is ideal
Would the copy carver machine work for shaping the necks. Seems like it would eliminate human error and you're only setting up 1 machine. another bonus is that you might be able to set up several necks at a time and all at different shapes?
We used to use the copy carver for necks, it isn't as awesome as the deadhead sander
Texas Toast Guitars well I guess since you don’t need the copy carver, I’ll take it off your hands.
Love my deadhead sander. Not hard to make. A&H abrasives are excellent. Matt are those bolt on necks?
Hi John, the necks in the video are bolt on
router table would be time saver. im goin ham with rasp files. is taht a 1" roundover?
I am a little confused. Why don't you press the frets on the fretboard without the neck then glue the board to the neck?
I'm a little confused why anyone would proceed any other way...
But,
There are many ways to do most jobs
@@TexasToastGuitars I am afraid of spending time on the fret board , gluing it , then ruining the neck after pressing on tbe frets. So I presume there is an avantage the way you do it?
It seems like the length from volute to heel is somewhat set, though, to a 16-fret neck design. Not a problem for the majority of your work, but what about 14- or even 12-fret lengths. Straight from the router table to hand shaping?
We have another deadhead sander for those necks but rarely, if ever use it
So I guess you'd have to go with another method for a neck with an angled headstock, right? Since it wouldn't have a completely flat surface to use to slide down the router table.
Also, do y'all use the same type of poly on necks that you use on the bodies?
You got it right on both CC.
Sometimes we just go right to the sander for angled headstocks. The sealer, basecoat and clear are used on any and all parts of the guitars we make. We can do oil finish necks but only on customer requests
Matt, you should do stand up. I have so many questions but not tonight, honey.
HAHAHAHA
I don't think I would be good a that
New pin router next, know your busy w/ other shit but...the suspense, hopefully before ya get into the next class series. That sander makes quick work of the bulk excess in the neck. What rough board size do you start w/ on neck blanks, 8/4?
So cool machine Matt, looks easy!!
Is easy???🤔🤔
Love it
Thanks brotherman, it was tricky at first and we wreaked a few HAHAHA
Texas Toast Guitars 🤣🤣🤣
You need to make a neck contour jig.
I have used Steve's and it is pretty cool. However, I prefer the old school tools and the deadhead sander is certainly that. They are actually still in use at Fender Gibson and even Warmoth has one. Do you have a neck contour jig? I'd love to see your version. They are super cool & I do love tools
Hey man,
What size of that Bit for router the Neck?
Thanx dude
😊👍🏽
That was a 3/4 bit
@@TexasToastGuitars
Oowh..
Ok, thanks a lot man..
Can't wait to see your new videos..
🙌🏽🙌🏽
Nice process and a cool machine.
Did anyone have to get carried home from 'C'B'?
Thanks man, we are going to Casa Bonita Saturday
Oops a bit premature, have a cool cool time 😎🎸✅
Waiting to see that Mockingbird bass in the back!
It is almost ready for paint
Some people pay damn good money for those burn marks. It makes them play better, or something.
Burn marks = big bucks!
That 3&3 headstock had no angle? Is angled headstock even needed?
Depending on your design... no
Matt, any idea on what number is your bit on the router table for the back of the neck.Hi from Greece
Hi fotice, we use a bunch of bits... 1/2 , 3/4 and ideally 7/8 it kinda depends on the thickness of the neck
@@TexasToastGuitars the thickness before the dead head sander seemed just fine for me, measured by eye. What was that?? Thanks for all your content ive learned so much.. but not gone any smarter😁😁
what is the ruuter bit size?
Matt has all the way cool power tools!
I do have some of them
"Just a little tiny bit of hand sanding" yeah right, just a little tiny teeny weeny little bit.
Just a little
I need your t shirt asap 🤣
Wait, you want me to send you the shirt off my back
Velvet Jones School of Luttery
HAHAHA
"They're just concentrating on dynamite and anvils, now" 😜😁😄🤣😂
That's what I heard
@@TexasToastGuitars I thought it was a Looney Toons joke
Hey Matt… what material did you cover the plywood with for the back of the belt to run over ? I would think there would be a lot of friction build up there ???
It is platen cover it's cloth with a thick graphite coating. Just like you find on a sander made of metal
Hey Matt. Are your necks tapered in thickness? Or the same thickness from end to end.
All our necks are custom specified by the customer. Sometimes they are but most times they are not. When I shape necks for myself they are .86 at the first fret and .90 at the 12th.
where did you get the graphite paper/sheet for the platen?
I can't remember but I think Woodworker's Supply carries that stuff
What about Reshaping a P bass neck to a thinner profile.
Sure man
Hey Matt! How much do the custom belts set you back?
I think they are like 11 or 12 bucks
Cool sander, but it needs a tie-dyed paint job.
Now yer talkin
Acme... lol That was a good one. :)
We try HAHAHA
Don’t you guys have tilt linishers in the states ? Kinda shocked you had to fabricate your own and also had to find custom belts. We have these in high school woodwork classes here in Australia.
Beats me?
We have linishers but they're really more for tool finishing (sharpening) and pipe-work - it would still take a ton of customization to really make one work in this fashion (the working orientation is generally all wrong) . Add to that the fact that the belts are typically narrow it's not really as good a solution as this.
We've got oscillating belt sanders that are more akin to this piece that Matt uses - but they are crazy-expensive in sizes best suited to neck work (like US$5k)
Don Vanco that sounds like a bed / flat run linisher, tilts over here are found in most cabinet maker’s shops, you wouldn’t use them for tools because of the long belt and the chance that said tool would puncture and send the belt flying across the room :) maybe we just use different names. My point was this exact type of machine is really common , you can pick them up quite cheap at any local Bunnings. And that’s what shocks me as usually we are the ones who need to order or fabricate tools we only have a population of 27 m
Mayb uv seen it , phil mcknight gav u guy s props in his last night vid was 10 hi-end guitar brands u may not kno about . Cool beans .
Good looking out Glenn
Got a man on it over here boss !
If I send you my guitar neck can you shape it asymmetrically?
We do not offer this service at this time
@@TexasToastGuitars ok thanks
Please don't say patience.
Matt. I am the biggest tool to ever shape a guitar neck. Oh wait. You said “best”.. ok, yeah. That’s probably a deadhead sander.
Totally HAHAHA
Nice arm
Thanks Jeff
🔥🔥🔥
You mentioned a few times that yours isn’t a real dead head sander and that you’d get into why, but I never caught what made yours not a real dead head sander.
I did say that didn't I... a real dead head sander has a platen with no drive wheels opposite the drive. since it doesn't spin it is dead. The old school ones were shaped like a triangle. They might have been tricky to adjust but I don't know.
shinto japanese saw plane takes stock off quick and is a no power way to get it done.
I can't tell you how many necks I have shaped with no power. It is enough to be over that whole "shaping necks is therapeutic" thing.
You get, after several minutes, to the climax of the show, to the point of the whole thing, and your arm is completely covering what you are doing.
*
Why not just use a rasp. I can get a neck done it 20-30 minutes with my rasp and bladder sander.
You just answered your own question
dynamite and anvils...HAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHA I am still a fan of Wile E. Coyote
I would be hesitant to use any acme products after seeing how poorly they have worked for wile e coyote.
Lots of import items in the catalogue these days
Beep! Beep! 😂
I thought it was Meep Meep?
BEEP BEEP!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA
I think it'd be enlightening to see what the DHS looks like when the belt is off. 😀
Do you follow us on Instagram?
@@TexasToastGuitars Yeah, as @SemitonesTexas (follow-backs encouraged). I'll take a squint and find it.
Dang those Americans, always gotta yell. Even in closed spaces...
Yeah