I'm going to make this broken plastic piece out of yellow casting, I'm a jeweler, it's very simple for me to make this piece, but if I didn't watch your videos, I definitely wouldn't be able to disassemble this sewing machine - thank you God bless you 🥲🤲🙏
Great video, thanks. I also put the slide on upside-down just like you did! A tip to set the presser bar height; put the foot pressure dial to lowest (darning) setting, then place a 6mm Allen key centrally under the presser foot (with the dogs down) . Align the presser foot against the sole plate & push down on the presser rod whilst tightening the square clamp. This gives the correct range of foot pressures.
Hi, I wanted to thank you for this and all of your videos about he Vikings. With these and a few others I have been able to mostly understand the service technical briefing and have been trying to restore my 6460. It is deeply satisfying when something goes right, but after many many hours of loving labour, I am stuck and could really use some guidance. I would love to speak with you or email if possible, but in short, I have had to change out the fixed cam and the take up mechanism as you demonstrated. I have removed, cleaned and returned almost everything (not had the main part of the pattern selector out but was able to reach most things to clean and oil). I found some splintering on the rim of the shuttle driver that I was able to gently sand down (thought I'd try rather than waiting for yet another part to be delivered) and I thought it looked like it should be ok. I've put it all back together and have been working through the service adjustments, feeling quite pleased with myself until I needed to test some stitching while setting the tension... the top thread is getting wildly bunched up around the bobbin holder. I can only manage 3 ot 4 stitches before it jams. I cant for the life of me figure out what's happening or why and I'm feeling defeated. I dont know of a local repair place I can rely on and I so badly wanted to be able to do it myself, so if you can offer me any guidance I would be extremely grateful. Yours, Tamsin
Hi! A very nice video as always. When it comes to the plastic parts they could probably be 3D-printed.. if the original piece is kind of complete you can use it as a template. As i said, a very good video. I like my sewing machines very much and your vids has helped me alot. Thank you so much.
Great video and workmanship! I have a dilemma. My used Viking came with a broken take-up crank slide and the plastic pieces long gone. I purchased a new take-up crank slide for a 6430, or so it was advertised. It's not the same. The old one, as you know, has a spherical bearing and retained by the spring and clip. The new one has a straight bore. Would you know any part numbers? Thank you,
Thanks so much. Have my machine running again beautifully! However I have a problem you may be able to help with. The stitch length knob is nice and free and I can the internals moving nicely. However the stitch length does not seem to increase. I can decrease the number and get smaller stitches but I can’t get a basting length stitch when set to 4. Any ideas?
If you work with the machine standing on its handwheel end, you won't have to worry about topshaft end play. When setting presser foot height, put the lifter lever in UP position, move the bar up until the foot shank JUST clears the needle clamp in its full down position. Then the presser foot will be at the right height (if your needle height is correct) and you can then make sure the foot is straight to the center needle position.
Thanks mate! Same fault with my 6900. I found the brass sleeve just above the on/off switch! How did it get there?! The 0.1µF capacitor had exploded (usual in old machines). The machine will not reverse, but everything else seems OK. Maybe my client should get it serviced.
hi..thank you so much for this video..I want a little help from you please I opened the thread tensioner of husqvarna sewing machine the red colour one and I couldn't but it again like it was please please can you help me
9:46 - that plastic part. Clean with alcohol to remove all grease. Squeeze some liquid super glue into that crack and on top. Sprinkle a light dusting of baking soda on super glue to solidify it. Now you have a good repair for many more years. The other option is to recreate that part using a 3D Printer.
Cordial saludo desde Colombia. Tengo una maquina de coser husqvarna 2000/ 6460. le desarme el tirahilo (pull thread ) y al armarlo me olvidé el orden de las piezas. Usted me podria decir ó hacer un video con la manera de armarlo? le agradezco su amable respuesta. Aqui en Colombia hace muchos años no tenemos servicio tecnico y repuestos, por eso acudo a usted. mil gracias
I am having a great deal of trouble trying to remove the reversed threaded screw. It is a slot screw on a 6030. It just will not budge. I have used penetrating oil and heat and it will not move. Suggestions please????
thanks for this video. i was recently gifted a Viking 6430 with some accessories and cams A-F. after watching your tutorials and doing a little cleaning and oiling, i'd say it's in good working condition, other than the cams but the cam stack is solid. after testing all the cams, only 1 or 2 of the stitches work per cam. out of the stitches that do work, those aren't the prettiest or the most consistent in parameters. curious of thoughts on potential reasons. also, the zig dial has the outer dial that can slide out and lock in place, curious what function this is. don't have an user's manual so don't fully understand all the functions, esp since i'm new to sewing. oh and one more thing, is there any sort of general guide as to what function the other presser feet perform that came with the machine. thanks again for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Good evening Sir and thanks very much for the videos. I had one of these machines which I purchased for a few dollars from a local classifieds. What I found very interesting was that the manual stated that the machine 'need not be oiled'. Was this Husqvarna being a little optimistic? I was very fortunate in that my machine had seen very little use and was in great condition, so I never oiled it.
Thanks. Yes I've seen it stated in manuals that the machines don't need oiling. As far as I can gather, the manufacturers are assuming the machine will be serviced by a technician regularly, in which case the user does not need to oil it.
The metal parts are infused with a type of lubricant. If the machine is used regularly the heat generated lubricates the parts. However, when the machine sits for a long time this lubricant can harden. Stuck parts CAN be loosened back up with a judicious amount of Tri-Flow (or similar...) and perhaps some gentle heat from a hair drier. (Note: NEVER use WD-40 as it will become like plasticized glue over time and ruin the machine.)
@@earthview4242 Thanks. I assumed WD40 (which I have never used) was similar to CRC but I guess it's not. I would only ever use a penetrating oil to free a part up and then use oil as a permanent lubricant after that.
@@InStitches These were some of the first machines to use sintered steel bearings. They were essentially powdered steel compressed and heated to keep their shape but the end result was a bearing that acted like a sponge absorbing a good amount of lubricant. Heat and centrifugal force would coax the lubricant out of the bearing and onto the shaft during operation. The bearing would reabsorb the lubricant when the machine was idle. This was the main reason for the "need not be oiled" tag.
Sintered bearings are loaded with oil at manufacture using heat & pressure. I've successfully lubricated them using an equivalent to the approved BP lubricant. Takes time to let a tiny drip at a time absorb into the bearing edge, but it does go in & a dry bearing absorbs a surprising amount. My lubricant of choice is Citroen LHM fluid. It's the same a BP energol HLP 46 that's specified.
I'm going to make this broken plastic piece out of yellow casting, I'm a jeweler, it's very simple for me to make this piece, but if I didn't watch your videos, I definitely wouldn't be able to disassemble this sewing machine - thank you God bless you 🥲🤲🙏
Great video, thanks. I also put the slide on upside-down just like you did!
A tip to set the presser bar height; put the foot pressure dial to lowest (darning) setting, then place a 6mm Allen key centrally under the presser foot (with the dogs down) . Align the presser foot against the sole plate & push down on the presser rod whilst tightening the square clamp. This gives the correct range of foot pressures.
Thank you, with your videos I have got a frozen 1030 working again.
Hi, I wanted to thank you for this and all of your videos about he Vikings. With these and a few others I have been able to mostly understand the service technical briefing and have been trying to restore my 6460. It is deeply satisfying when something goes right, but after many many hours of loving labour, I am stuck and could really use some guidance. I would love to speak with you or email if possible, but in short, I have had to change out the fixed cam and the take up mechanism as you demonstrated. I have removed, cleaned and returned almost everything (not had the main part of the pattern selector out but was able to reach most things to clean and oil). I found some splintering on the rim of the shuttle driver that I was able to gently sand down (thought I'd try rather than waiting for yet another part to be delivered) and I thought it looked like it should be ok. I've put it all back together and have been working through the service adjustments, feeling quite pleased with myself until I needed to test some stitching while setting the tension... the top thread is getting wildly bunched up around the bobbin holder. I can only manage 3 ot 4 stitches before it jams. I cant for the life of me figure out what's happening or why and I'm feeling defeated. I dont know of a local repair place I can rely on and I so badly wanted to be able to do it myself, so if you can offer me any guidance I would be extremely grateful. Yours, Tamsin
Hi! A very nice video as always. When it comes to the plastic parts they could probably be 3D-printed.. if the original piece is kind of complete you can use it as a template. As i said, a very good video. I like my sewing machines very much and your vids has helped me alot. Thank you so much.
@@n.leinad Very nice! I suppose most of the plastic parts could be made with a 3-D printer if necessary.
Tack för svaret! ;-)
Looks like Husqvarna 2000 often has this problem. Just fixed one. Nice Video! Tack ska du ha, Dankeschön!
Fantastic detail and presentation. Thanks. Machine is fixed!
Great video and workmanship! I have a dilemma. My used Viking came with a broken take-up crank slide and the plastic pieces long gone. I purchased a new take-up crank slide for a 6430, or so it was advertised. It's not the same. The old one, as you know, has a spherical bearing and retained by the spring and clip. The new one has a straight bore. Would you know any part numbers? Thank you,
Great. Perfect finish!
Thanks so much. Have my machine running again beautifully! However I have a problem you may be able to help with. The stitch length knob is nice and free and I can the internals moving nicely. However the stitch length does not seem to increase. I can decrease the number and get smaller stitches but I can’t get a basting length stitch when set to 4. Any ideas?
If you work with the machine standing on its handwheel end, you won't have to worry about topshaft end play. When setting presser foot height, put the lifter lever in UP position, move the bar up until the foot shank JUST clears the needle clamp in its full down position. Then the presser foot will be at the right height (if your needle height is correct) and you can then make sure the foot is straight to the center needle position.
Thank you SO MUCH for this. Excellent video!!
Having trouble taking off the broken part with the copper bushing. If we get it off what kind of glue did you use.
Thank you I have a viking with exactly this problem.
Every viking I've repaired had a broken take up slide.
Thanks mate! Same fault with my 6900. I found the brass sleeve just above the on/off switch! How did it get there?! The 0.1µF capacitor had exploded (usual in old machines). The machine will not reverse, but everything else seems OK. Maybe my client should get it serviced.
Great video. many thanks.
hi..thank you so much for this video..I want a little help from you please I opened the thread tensioner of husqvarna sewing machine the red colour one and I couldn't but it again like it was please please can you help me
Can't get the piece off to fix it.
9:46 - that plastic part. Clean with alcohol to remove all grease. Squeeze some liquid super glue into that crack and on top. Sprinkle a light dusting of baking soda on super glue to solidify it. Now you have a good repair for many more years.
The other option is to recreate that part using a 3D Printer.
Hi. Very good video. Sir, can You please put link e shop at this broken detail . I have same problem. Thank You.
Thanks. You can contact me via my email - web site is listed in the description.
Cordial saludo desde Colombia.
Tengo una maquina de coser husqvarna 2000/ 6460. le desarme el tirahilo (pull thread ) y al armarlo me olvidé el orden de las piezas. Usted me podria decir ó hacer un video con la manera de armarlo? le agradezco su amable respuesta. Aqui en Colombia hace muchos años no tenemos servicio tecnico y repuestos, por eso acudo a usted. mil gracias
Life saver! Thank you boss!
I am having a great deal of trouble trying to remove the reversed threaded screw. It is a slot screw on a 6030. It just will not budge. I have used penetrating oil and heat and it will not move. Suggestions please????
I always ask my husband to undo the tuff screws :-D By the way, metal expands when heated...
thanks for this video. i was recently gifted a Viking 6430 with some accessories and cams A-F. after watching your tutorials and doing a little cleaning and oiling, i'd say it's in good working condition, other than the cams but the cam stack is solid. after testing all the cams, only 1 or 2 of the stitches work per cam. out of the stitches that do work, those aren't the prettiest or the most consistent in parameters. curious of thoughts on potential reasons.
also, the zig dial has the outer dial that can slide out and lock in place, curious what function this is. don't have an user's manual so don't fully understand all the functions, esp since i'm new to sewing. oh and one more thing, is there any sort of general guide as to what function the other presser feet perform that came with the machine.
thanks again for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Maybe you could find a manual online?
Estupendo felicitaciones
como hizo para quitar la.pieza de adentro
Good evening Sir and thanks very much for the videos.
I had one of these machines which I purchased for a few dollars from a local classifieds. What I found very interesting was that the manual stated that the machine 'need not be oiled'. Was this Husqvarna being a little optimistic? I was very fortunate in that my machine had seen very little use and was in great condition, so I never oiled it.
Thanks. Yes I've seen it stated in manuals that the machines don't need oiling. As far as I can gather, the manufacturers are assuming the machine will be serviced by a technician regularly, in which case the user does not need to oil it.
The metal parts are infused with a type of lubricant. If the machine is used regularly the heat generated lubricates the parts. However, when the machine sits for a long time this lubricant can harden. Stuck parts CAN be loosened back up with a judicious amount of Tri-Flow (or similar...) and perhaps some gentle heat from a hair drier. (Note: NEVER use WD-40 as it will become like plasticized glue over time and ruin the machine.)
@@earthview4242 Thanks. I assumed WD40 (which I have never used) was similar to CRC but I guess it's not. I would only ever use a penetrating oil to free a part up and then use oil as a permanent lubricant after that.
@@InStitches These were some of the first machines to use sintered steel bearings. They were essentially powdered steel compressed and heated to keep their shape but the end result was a bearing that acted like a sponge absorbing a good amount of lubricant. Heat and centrifugal force would coax the lubricant out of the bearing and onto the shaft during operation. The bearing would reabsorb the lubricant when the machine was idle. This was the main reason for the "need not be oiled" tag.
Sintered bearings are loaded with oil at manufacture using heat & pressure. I've successfully lubricated them using an equivalent to the approved BP lubricant. Takes time to let a tiny drip at a time absorb into the bearing edge, but it does go in & a dry bearing absorbs a surprising amount. My lubricant of choice is Citroen LHM fluid. It's the same a BP energol HLP 46 that's specified.