Good practical information that is easy enough to follow, albeit with pausing the video to read all the details. The beauty of the video is how concise it is. Some other person could have turned this into a 45 min. tutorial with other non essential info. I applaud your efforts.
Now you just need to plumb in primary and secondary makeup air to an outside source so as to keep all the heat you make inside the house. No warmed air up the chimney!
I have made a secondary burn system for my stove but it's never fired up. I noticed I have a small gap around the pipe going through the stove and a couple of small cracks around the doors. I have ball valves on the outside of the stove. I'm using 3/4" pipe inside the stove and 1/2" ball valves outside. Could the small cracks around the doors and pipes make it not work? I also have a SS heat shield just above the pipes inside the firebox. Thank you for any help you can give.
5 ปีที่แล้ว +2
Things have to be hot in order to work. If the wood is barely lit, it's not going to work. The smoke has to travel a short distance to the zone where it meets the secondary air jets, the air coming from the pipe needs to be as hot (preheated) as possible too. Check if air is draughted in the pipes (incese stick, a piece of paper). Maybe change the orientation of the jets, towards the flue or the baffle or the door, play with that a bit. Make sure the stove pulls enough main air, the flue is clear. Insulate the primary burn zone with fire bricks., maybe. I pass the pipe thru the flames of the first burn then exit the air in a mixing area where I forced a vortex with a bent piece of ss sheet (no vids from me on this subject, sorry)
@, that's a good way of explaining things. Thank you for your help. I have the two secondary burn intake pipes on each side of the fire box made from 3/4" pipe but the ends of each pipe are only 1/2" ball valves just protruding through the outside of the stove. The air coming into the pipes are not hot and are only heated for about 24" before reaching the holes. I wonder if I crisscross the pipes and then the fire would be burning right on top of the pipes where the air is directly coming in?
secondary air must be "warmed" or pre-heated "enough" to work, and it be assured that the air passes "across" the holes. This is normally done with a baffle. In most cases you can't just throw a tube with holes over a fire, and have it work.
@@quantumofconscience6538 Yes in the meantime UI have learned the natural demands for this, the prewarming needs als be clever, because it also eat efficienty when not done right. The rocket mass heater is what I use now, these do the best of all stoves having almost complete combustion, it use mass air and a river who is insolated for capure heat, a pre airwarmer is the tube on the input of the rizer.
Your snapshot-and-typed video is by far the most useful of a dozen I've watched about adding a secondary burn. Thank you.
Good practical information that is easy enough to follow, albeit with pausing the video to read all the details. The beauty of the video is how concise it is. Some other person could have turned this into a 45 min. tutorial with other non essential info. I applaud your efforts.
Thanks, John I really appreciate your efforts to explain and show your modifications to your woodstove!
I just used a gas stainless bbq burner for my secondary. Worked great
Nicely done - Simple and elegant solution!
Muy buena explicación!. Saludos!
Now you just need to plumb in primary and secondary makeup air to an outside source so as to keep all the heat you make inside the house. No warmed air up the chimney!
I have made a secondary burn system for my stove but it's never fired up. I noticed I have a small gap around the pipe going through the stove and a couple of small cracks around the doors. I have ball valves on the outside of the stove. I'm using 3/4" pipe inside the stove and 1/2" ball valves outside. Could the small cracks around the doors and pipes make it not work? I also have a SS heat shield just above the pipes inside the firebox. Thank you for any help you can give.
Things have to be hot in order to work. If the wood is barely lit, it's not going to work. The smoke has to travel a short distance to the zone where it meets the secondary air jets, the air coming from the pipe needs to be as hot (preheated) as possible too.
Check if air is draughted in the pipes (incese stick, a piece of paper). Maybe change the orientation of the jets, towards the flue or the baffle or the door, play with that a bit.
Make sure the stove pulls enough main air, the flue is clear.
Insulate the primary burn zone with fire bricks., maybe.
I pass the pipe thru the flames of the first burn then exit the air in a mixing area where I forced a vortex with a bent piece of ss sheet (no vids from me on this subject, sorry)
@, that's a good way of explaining things. Thank you for your help. I have the two secondary burn intake pipes on each side of the fire box made from 3/4" pipe but the ends of each pipe are only 1/2" ball valves just protruding through the outside of the stove. The air coming into the pipes are not hot and are only heated for about 24" before reaching the holes. I wonder if I crisscross the pipes and then the fire would be burning right on top of the pipes where the air is directly coming in?
I did exact the same, with holes in it and not slet from grinder however I get not or difficult afterburning, I think air inlet there is important to.
secondary air must be "warmed" or pre-heated "enough" to work, and it be assured that the air passes "across" the holes. This is normally done with a baffle. In most cases you can't just throw a tube with holes over a fire, and have it work.
@@quantumofconscience6538 Yes in the meantime UI have learned the natural demands for this, the prewarming needs als be clever, because it also eat efficienty when not done right. The rocket mass heater is what I use now, these do the best of all stoves having almost complete combustion, it use mass air and a river who is insolated for capure heat, a pre airwarmer is the tube on the input of the rizer.
Does adding in a secondary make it consume more wood?
No. Secondary is igniting gases and smoke that would be lost up the chimney.
What happens if you burn coal?
He can't because there is no grate air feeding for coal burning
I fail to see the catalytic part.
Catalitic was the origional configuration.
One of the first shots on video.
He ripped out that piece of crap.