I had a cloudy water and visited our local Leslie swimming pool shop! Told them that I have a birthday party in a month and need to get it clear! Needless to say I spent hundreds of dollars! So our pool was still cloudy but after the birthday party! I used flock.. Shocked the pool then added flock, turned pump off after 2 hours and the next day everything was laying on the bottom! Could see for the first time! Shock is awesome but just use flock and vacuum to waste with sand filter! These sales commission hacks took me for a ride.. Shock, Flock, is the way!
Hi, I live in the Northeast and every year I disassemble my pump and filter and bring them inside. It's just so much easier than blowing out the lines and dealing with any other problems from ice. As such, I have a lot of threaded PVC. If you are looking for a new topic for this channel, as an amateur pool plumber I'd like to hear what you have to say about dealing with PVC. What type to use, how to seal connections, how tight should threaded connections be, common tools, etc. Thank you for your time, and I really appreciate your videos.
As long as your pump housing isn't full of water, it won't be harmed by leaving it outside. Not a bad idea to take your filter inside to prevent the freezing/thawing/freezing from making the filter fabric brittle, though.
I purchase the copper sulfate from Tractor Supply for "lakes & ponds" ... Way less expensive.2 Tsp a month for My 30,000 gallon Pool has been way easier & much less expensive.
Ugh - we had a horrible algae problem all last summer. We kept taking the water to the local pool shop, but it just wouldn't go away. Used shock and algaecide and spent way too much money. Subscribed, hoping for a better summer this year.
I recently started looking after a friends pool..it had been neglected for about 1 month so pretty dirty and low water level... lots of pine tree pollen had gotten into the water and no matter what I did, I could not get rid of it.. turns out I now had an yellow algae bloom.. What I did was use a flocculant, I let run thru the system for a couple of hours then turned off the pump, next day after bringing the water level way up high I vacuumed to waste..I had to do it 2 or 3 times but now everything is perfect..ph good, chlorine good, and after cleaning the pool I add an antialgae. The whole process took about 5 weeks to straighten out. I have never looked after a pool before.. You should have seen me trying to get the air out of the hose the first time.. I actually got into the pool..lol
Bless your heart!! You’re a good friend!!! I had to be gone a while and actually made my good friend a video with all the steps of what I do. She said it worked great to have that.
Clowning around aside, this video is quite good and contains some simple and effective tips: shock pool with chlorine and keep pH in 7.4 - 7.6 range. Thanks
I bought a couple of ionizers for my 35000 gallon pool. It definitely helps reduce the amount of chlorine that you need. They have copper rods and I'm a little concerned that maybe I'm getting copper spots. It also seemed to kill black algae. Maybe I should say dislodge because unfortunately I see it down at the bottom of my pool now
I agree on shocking sir but you forgot one important thing BRUSHING AFTER SHOCKING always shocking only kills some of the algae and bleaches the color out of the rest but if you brush at the same time as shocking and adding algaecide way better results been in the business for 39 years from building to servicing pools all kinds brushing brushing people dont ever brush ther pools enough that would stop 90 percent of all problems just brushing thanks for the video be safe and wash your hands ✌🖖
This comment deserves so much praise. It's literally the first thing I tell people, and I always receive a look of despair. Yes! YOU HAVE TO BRUSH!. It should be brushed anyways at least once a week, whether it looks ok or not.
@@acatnamedstumpy1918 yeah I just learned that from another of this guy's videos He goes over a lot of stuff on different videos, but with there being so many things to it, it's very helpful for others to remind us noobs 👍
I run Pool RX at start of every season. First, bring ph down to 7.2 ish, quad shock it till teal, then shock again next night. Once algae is dead, I backwash filter, drop a pool rx in pump basket then add in some chlorine to .5 to 2ppm (pool rx brings chlorine demand WAY down). Pool RX I know uses chelated metals but I've had zero stains. Some use some copper to drop in pool by itself, but you can see that as a big problem.
Please stop staying 1-3 ppm is the chlorine level for pools!!! The correct pool chlorine level is based on the CYA level. The minimum FC level is 7.5% of the CYA level. However, that is the minimum. So you should keep it higher, like at 11.5% to give you some error room. For example, if your CYA level is 50, then your FC level should be 6 ppm. This is safe to swim and gives you room to correct if FC drifts down. Most people have high CYA in their pool due to using chlorine pucks with CYA in them. The first thing to do is get CYA under control. The key to shocking is to SLAM ("Shock Level And Maintain"). When you shock, you hold the FC level there until it does not go down. The SLAM level is typically 40% of your CYA level. So if your CYA is 50, then you would raise FC up to 20 ppm and hold it there. It could take days, but you will kill all the algae. Keep checking each hour or as often as possible. Brush, vacuum, and clean filter daily. By doing this, you will not have to shock every week. If your CYA is over 90, then you would have to drain and fill to get to a lower CYA level. Once your water is clear, your combined chlorine is less than 0.5 ppm and your overnight loss of FC is 1 or less, then you can stop the SLAM and allow the FC to drift back down to correct level.
CYA (Aka stabilizer) adds a lot of complexity to the problem. But I must say what you write here matches 100% with my experience. My CYA was off the charts. Had to take out about 1.5 feet of water and replace it to lower CYA (still high around 100). Then I saw results with being able to kill green algae. Following your formula, my FC should be 7.5 to 11.5. Seems very high but its at 10 right now and the water seems fine.
@@JoseRojasAbring that cya down another another 50 parts atleast 😂. it will save you alot of money in chlorine because it will require less. i do this professionally and can assure you that 30-50 ppm is far more ideal that 100.
Hello, looks like good info! Unable to download salt water cheat sheet, and the volume calc is inop. Works on the round one, but a simpl 20 x 4 feet "Fill in all required fields". Thanks
I have two retail stores, and I am constantly talking customers out of using algaecides as their first action to kill algae. Always chlorine first. Not the best sales results policy, but it helps them trust us, so they keep coming back.
I've tried everything. Shocking, clarifier, checking chlorine levels...still fighting algae. I'm in central FL, and this summer is brutal. Is there another step if you're in extreme high heat and humidity??
Yeah, I never had any luck with algaecide the only year I had an algae problem. I read on a shock product that it would handle the algae, and I didn't know whether to trust it or not. Now I know. Thank you, sir!
Once again, prevent algae by keeping your phosphates incredibly low (50ppb or less). A small phosphate treatment regularly deals with the generator, not the symptom. I run less that 1 ppm chlorine. Because I keep my phosphates so low, there's nothing for it to fight.
I have a pool and my phosphates are at 312 ppm. Please tell me how you keep your phosphates so low and maintain low phosphate numbers!!! Thanks in advance.
So glad I watched your video. This is exactly what I've been battling the past few months. My pool now has that yellow tint on steps, corners & edges from what I now understand is the copper in the algaecide products. Can I get rid of the stain by using ascorbic acid (which kills the chlorine levels as well) and then ultra shock my pool? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Nothing really works other than filtering your source water. Take a sample of your tap water to your pool store. I can pretty much guarantee you that the phosphate levels are very high. All of the chemical treatments for phosphate reduction are expensive and not very effective. At the end of the day, phosphates aren't that big a deal. I live in a screwy place where phosphates are literally over 5000 ppm straight out of the tap. It's impossible to get them anywhere close to reasonable levels, so I don't bother. And you know what? I don't have an algae problem at all. If you keep on top of your chlorine levels, your phosphate level is irrelevant. It won't matter what nutrient levels algae has if the water is toxic to it.
Most phosphate removers actually do their job. The source water (as stated above) and algae that has died from phosphate (algae's only food source) removal, will produce phosphates as well. If you use phosphate remover, wait until you've vacuumed your existing algae to waste, backwashed and rinsed your filter (remove and clean if cartridge filter), and shocked to pool. I feel phosphate remover works well here, especially if you can't constantly stay on top of your chlorine levels. It simply removes the food source (most common cause of algae) before it becomes a problem again.
@@djnix1348 They only reduce moderate levels of phosphates. And the bottom line is this. Phosphates are irrelevant to algae control. You HAVE to maintain proper free chlorine levels if you want to keep algae away. Period. Worrying about phosphates is just distraction. Actually, it's an AWESOME distraction for the folks at the pool supply stores because they get to sell you tons of very expensive phosphate reduction chemicals. Keep your chlorine levels up, and algae will never be a thing. Pretty simple. How do I know this? My phosphate levels out of the tap are off the charts - 5000 PPM!!! There's no way to filter that out without bankrupting me. But I never have algae. Never. Because I maintain strong free chlorines, don't allow chloramines to accumulate, and never allow stabilizer levels to grow above 100 ppm.
@@chuckschillingvideos I read your post above sir. I know that there are people that can constantly maintain their chemistry based on time, availability or a number of conflicting issues. I dont mean to contradict, or imply that you don't have success with your own methods. I personally have one (and only one) pool on my route with an identical issue (high phos. in their source water). I had made trips to shock this pool 3 times a week sometimes, and algae still returned. I changed my approach and then had success. I simply wanted to give my opinion based on facts and my own personal experience. In my experience you are an outlier with that high of a count, and no existing algae. But to get to that point you spent nearly the same amount as the method I suggested. BTW Clorox has a very affordable phosphate remover available at walmart for $26 or so. I've had years of success as a professional with this and other phosphate removers.
I kept my chlorine at 5 ppm and pH level 7.5, but still algae grows like crazy, and the cyanuric acid is 50 ppm. Therefore, I think I have to reduce phosphate. What else can I do?
Dear sir, i enjoy your tutorials and sharing your knowledge. I maintain a condomenium pool. We are using Diatomaceous Filters as mode of filtration. The duty Filters run 24 hours. A. Chlorine level between 1 to 3ppm. B. Ph level and alkalinity level is in ideal range. C. The filter elements are replaced not long ago. D. The mosaic tile pointings/ groutings are well intact. For somewhat reason, the water just doesn't look crystal clear. Looks slightly blurry but can see pool floor. May i know how to improve water clarity and what can i look out for sir?
You need to shock the pool (I recommend using pool shock to increase chlorine above 16 ppm), then use a product called flocculant (or pool floc) so it binds all those small particles and precipates them into the bottom. After adding the pool floc, run the pool in recirculation (NOT FILTER) for about 8 hours and let it rest for another 8 hours. After that, vacuum to WASTE.
This is just my thoughts after 30 years of having a pool. I advise you of a few things. #1 is to buy a high quality pool test kit such as the Taylor K-2006. You will find a pool chemistry bible inside that is priceless as well. #2 Test your water a minimum of 4 days a week. #3 Balance your water before using any form of Chlorine (unstabilized liquid is best) and btw 1-3 ppm of Cl is way too low a level for pools and you must understand the effect chlorine stabilizer has on pool sanitation as well. Google it if you dont believe me. #4 Stay far away from the pool store guidance. You should use an online pool water calculator to determine your chemical needs instead.
Leslie’s pool reps say once your phosphates get to a 1000 it’s almost a guaranteed that you see frequent algae blooms. The only way to get a handle on things is to kill the algae with non-copper algaecide and then add a phosphate remover to be added weekly which also happens to be the name of the product Weekly. Then continue to regular scheduled maintenance with 3ppm minimum free chlorine. Wondering is this seems plausible.
Can I ask you a question? I just got my kids a blow up ring pool the 15 foot one by 48" I think. When you say parts per million I dont understand I'm new to this lol. I bought shock and I have standered chlorine pucks with a dispenser that floats around the pool. What would you recommend? I also got the crystal clear stuff. Thanks!!
You don’t understand because you need to watch his videos on balancing all levels. Testing the water gives you numbers and based on those numbers you will know if you are putting all the chemicals in the pool at the correct level, when levels are off that’s when people have pool problems that’s why it’s so important to stay on top of all of your pool levels so definitely check out that video of his, he will tell you EXACTLY what to do and what to use.
Algae needs oxygen and phosphate to live. When algae dies, it produces phosphate. I had a mustard algae problem where I was on the shock, clean, balance PH cycle of death. Once I started adding a phosphate remover a couple of times - the cycle finally ended. Now I just ensure my chlorine and PH are at the correct levels and pool life is fun again!
Copper algaecide isn't bad it just has to be maintained at a certain level or it causes issues. (That level is around .2 ppm) Maintaining that copper level and weekly Polyquat will keep algae at bay and you won't have an issue. But yeah, dumping in a copper based algaecide every couple weeks is going to end badly.
So as the video said: just shock the pool instead of using algaecide. Most city water already has diluted metals that add up like calcium hardness on every pool water top off. Why add more metals in the pool if you can avoid it.
We have a 20’ round pool. We got what looks like mustard algae. We double shocked it. A day later it had alge all throughout the bottom of the pool. I use the vacuum to suck it up and for the last 5 days I wake everyday to more sitting there. The pool isn’t cloudy really or slimy. I’ve brushed it and got down in the flaps with the vacuum. I cleaned and replaced the filter. It’s still there. We keep 2 chlorine tablets in it at all times. And still every morning there is algae sitting on the bottom of the pool. I need some help. I don’t know what to do to get it out of there and keep it out.
Our pool people stain our pool liner a deep blue color when they came out to open our pool for the season. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this.
Used a green to blue kit and it worked! Got everything to the bottom and it looked clear again after being bright green! But when I vacuumed it just spread it everywhere again, less green but still super cloudy again. It’s a funsicle 16ft round so not the best filter I’m guessing. What do I do from here? 😂
Ok so i am a new pool owner and i messed up and put the algeagaurd in first. I waited about 3 hours and then added the stabilizer. How bad did i mess up?
Thank you SU for sharing your knowledge, i never regret purchasing your vid tutorials and handbook. However, can you make a tutorial on how to clean calcium build up on concrete/tile flooring ? I already tried brushing it with low pH (7.0) but minimal effect. Do i have to lower the pH more? And why does my chlorine tablet, when i accidentally left it on the pool flooring , removed the calcium build up on that specific area after 8 hours. TIA
I can help answer your question in the meantime. I’m sure Swim University will create a amazing video in much more detail than me - but I hope I can help some... Calcium build up is usually removed via using a ‘Pumice Stone”. You can find pumice stone’s in most pool stores or online. They are pretty inexpensive. Going about it with chemicals is not really recommended as a ‘first try’ as not only will using chemicals like you described throw off your whole chemical balance of your pool but it can be very dangerous if you’re not careful. An example is lowering your pH, basically means increasing the ‘acidity’ of the water. If you have a pool heater - it is possible to damage the heat exchanger by running acidic water thru it; as well as possibly damage other key pool equipment. If you do lower the pH below 7.2 and you have a heater; just ensure it has a ‘bypass’ mode and ensure you bypass it first. I wouldn’t recommend acid to fix a calcium build up issue, even though acid *will* work - that does not mean its a good idea. The only way our company would use acid for any pool clean-ups would typically be something like an ‘acid wash’ its called. That process requires for you to pretty much drain the pool (I’m pretty sure Swim University has a video or post on his website about that, but I may be wrong). By draining the pool when using acid; there is no way that acidic water is ran through the equipment; yet you can benefit from the power of acid and honestly it makes most pools look new (even though I don’t recommend it as a DIY project. I recommend if you choose this option to contact a local pool professional to do the job as acid is very powerful and can eat a hole right through the bottom of your pool by itself.) Sorry for the long response. The long-term solution for Calcium build-up is to lower the calcium level of your pool. As far as I’m aware, the only way to do this is to drain out some pool water and replace it with new water (ensure you take a water sample of your hose water to a local pool store or use a test kit to ensure your hose water has a low calcium level first. I’ve seen quite a few cases where the calcium of hose water was HIGH and therefore made the issue worse.). Remember calcium is like salt - it does not leave your pool via evaporation or anything other than draining the water and replacing the water with water with less calcium. Someone correct me if I’m wrong; from my knowledge, there is no chemical to lower your calcium level. I’m pretty sure one company came out with a product a few years back; but it didn’t work for me and they are no longer around. So your best bet is what I originally said; a pumice stone. Again, sorry for the long response - I love to help fellow homeowners and share knowledge. Good luck! And I agree that purchasing Swim University tutorials and information is never a waste. Google, Reddit, TH-cam, etc. has all the information in the World; but the ‘Pool Industry’ is a small industry and I see SO MUCH bad advice on a daily basis. I’ve said this before many times; Swim University is one of the few who talks about what they know and its accurate. Pool mistakes get EXPENSIVE so spending a little money for some amazing *accurate* advice is priceless in my opinion. +Swim University: I’ll contact you via DM or FB as I’d love to offer some of your tutorials/handbooks for sale on our website. I’ve never done that in the past as I’ve never agreed with all the advice from others. 60% of our sales are repeat purchases; so my priority is the customer and the long term relationship with our customers. We refuse to sell ‘generic’ products which are cheaply made even though we can make a extra $100K/yr. You have a very strong brand which customers trust and I hope you know us well enough to know we are the same way. The customer is always #1 to us. Thanks!
I have tried everything green to clean, Algatec with clarinet my pool is 40K gallons nasty green nothing has worked. I’m going to use only shock like you suggested. How much should I use 10, 12 how many pounds for 40,000 gal, I’m so tired of wasting money. I bought an external pump so the nasty stuff on bottom won’t go in my filter. Brand new pump worked 5 minutes and stopped. Sent back got another one it did the exact same thing. I’ll buy a different pump bc I have to vacuum the bottom to get control of this algae problem. pLEASE help me
Polyquat algaecide is the only thing to use. Use as a preventative, not a treatment. Use once a year. If the ingredient starts with ‘poly’ it’s the right stuff. Never use copper based.
We have green algae so I dumped 128 ounce bottle of algaecide into the pool today. Then I saw this video basically saying I screwed up.. Now what do I do ???
I followed your directions with an 8k green pool - shocked - next day teal- shocked again and 3rd day no change still teal. Now I don’t know what to do. Any suggestions?
Except shock wont kill a yellow algea problem unless its growing on the ground, then the cal-hypo granules will burn it off because of direct contact. The algea on the walls will flourish. Yellow algea doesn't care about chlorine. You can dump 30 gallons of chlorine in the pool, 8 bags of shock, program the pump to run 24/7 and that yellow algea will not only be completely unscathed but it will continue to paint your entire pool yellow until it gets so thick then it looks green. And even if you kill it completely it will always come back because it is litterly in our water supply
Hi there! So my experience with chlorine and mustard algae has been different. We tried algaecide, chlorine pucks (and we have a salt water pool), backs of shock, and nothing worked. We started following the SLAM method and overnight, our pool was clear. To keep it that way will take a couple more days (until we finish SLAM and can get back to normal FC levels), but it’s working when nothing else did. We’re just using liquid chlorine from Walmart. If your stabilizer (CYA) level is good, it should work. Just wanted to share because this was a game changer for us!
What happens when you shock pool and it's still green. Power was out and pump stopped while on vacation. Pool water was clear, but green algae at the bottom, vacuumed and shocked now chlorine is 5+ and whole pool is still green 2 days later? TIA
read the label on the shock. usually tells you how much gallon it will treat. 1st shock, use 3x the amount of what the label said. Usually 1 bag is good for 10000 gallons, so your normal shock would be about 3 bags, 1st shock would be 9 bags. unstablized shock works best, since it doesn't have any inhibiter for chlorine to work with. But that means need to shock when sun is down so. run pump 24hours for next few days.
Ugh, I added the black mold algaecide probably copper based a few days ago and it’s still frothy. Will that eventually go away? How do I get it out of the water. Kinda pissed Lelsie pool just told me to dump a bunch in the pool rather than just shocking it.
I don't even know if what is laying randomly at the bottom of my pool is algae? Or is it dirt.. when you take the pool net across the bottom..it just disappears in the water until it's still enough and it settles back down..
I had a problem similar to yours. I backwashed my sand filter. Same thing would happen, the stuff would just poof like dust. I recently found out that after a backwash, you need to set the filter to rinse for a little bit. Do you use the rinse cycle?
Need some advice. My ph is at 7.5 and chlorine levels are 1.5-2ppm but I keep on getting small green algae spots throughout the pool every 2-3 days. How do I fix this. P.s. outdoor temperature is usually over 30*c everyday for 2-3 months. Any suggestions?
Get your CYA up to about 50ppm. Then double your current clorine level. Be sure your alkalinity level is below 150ppm, preferably 120-125ppm, lastly brush your pool.
What is the best SHOCK product or ingredient percentages to purchase? I currently use a shock which has a high (sodiumdichliro-s Triaznetrione hydrated 99%) and algae still exist especially during 90° and above temperatures.
I have a summer waves above ground pool. I got up one morning and the water was green. I went bought a bottle of HTH shock . When I put it in the pool the water turned brown. How do I fix this.
First I like to net, brush, and vacuum the algaey pool, even If I can't see the bottom, and rinse the filter. You don't want all the heavy stuff getting in the way of the chlorine, you wanna shock the loose particles that are clouding the water.
Been having a mild green algae problem and after balancing PH level and all I've shocked the pool killing all algae, used flocculant to bring all algae to but when I tried to vacuum it my pool blaster catfish ultra seems to pick up some algae and shoot out the rest dispersing it in the water. I've tried to increase the filtration of vacuum by adding different materials but I get same results. So I ended up using a water hose attached to the pole to siphon out all algae from bottom of pool which worked well although it's a lengthy and awkward method. I now have water pretty clear until you disturb the bottom and see a little cloudiness. Are there any vacuum designed to pick up all algae? Any other suggestions? Thanks a lot
Hope you got your answer before now. But if not, I was having the same issue and so I watched 1 million videos and read 1 million opinions. Someone told me to go slow like us now so that’s what I started doing and S stop saying the energy being pushed up into the water when I was vacuuming. Some people say the water hose is a better way to do it, but no matter what way you have to go like a snail.
Hey there. Needing some help with our pool. We filled it up with water, shocked it & it turned brown. Found out we have high iron levels in our water. So we bought this product called suspend from our local pool place. Done what they said, filled up 2 feet, put in suspend, filled up rest of way. Then we shocked it again. Turned brown again, we made this home made filter. It removed all of the brown! Pool was clear. Looked great. Put chlorine tablet in, then it started to turn a little green, so we put algicide in it and now it’s yellow green. Ph was a little high, so we put ph decrease in, and it’s still yellow green. What exactly do we need to do to get this cleared up?
We need to treat for 30,000 for algea. I have 1 jug of liquid chlorine (128 floz) and 1 bag of powder shock (1 bag treat 10,000 gal). I don't have anything else on hand at the moment. Can I dump both of those in to get it to kill green algea.
Watched your video did what you said shocked the hell out of it! It went from mustard green to milky blue and has been this color for a week. Everything is testing good, pH 7.3 alkalinity is within the ok stabilizer is a little low but not much. What next please HELP!!! have not been able to use the pool yet this year fighting this back and forth three times now. Thanks in advance
I have been in pools for 39 years i would a filter enhancer if you have a sand filter or de filter if you have a cartridge filter i would add a flocking g agent to settle all the fine particulate to the pool bottom and the vaccum to waste and ALWAYS ALWAYS brush your pool at least twice a week i cant stress it enough
use either flock or clarifier. flock makes everything goes down to the bottom, and you'll need to manually vacuum it to waste. clarifier clumps them together so your filter and filter it out easily, but this is a slower process, and will have to backwash your filter more often.
I am dealing with green algae and cant seem toget rid of it. I jave shocked the pool multiple times, has bee. About 12-15ppm for the last 2 weeksbutno improvent. My CYA was about 100 so dropped it to 50 but still no improvememt. Ph was 7.8 dropped it to 7.4. I cant do flocculant and vaccum to waste because the pool is in an inclined area an the water runs to my neighbor. I have been brushing daily. The pool place here told not yo keep shocking...they gaveme a non chlorine shock 2 days ago....still looks terrible. A friend of mine said alguicide but i saw thos video so didn't go that route. Any ideas?
My family owns a pool store and we have run across something called pink algae. That is harder to remove than mustard and green but not as hard to remove as black.
Depends upon the chlorine level you want to reach. Might be too little to shock, but if you keep the pool in balance you might not need any bleach each week. What level you should aim for when shocking is also affected by your stabilizer (cyanuric acid) levels. Bleach marketed for pool use usually has a considerably higher % of sodium hypochlorite than what you’ll find in the laundry aisle. The % will affect the volume needed. I like poolcalculator.com which is free if you use the website (they charge for the app, but it isn’t necessary). It allows you to specify current levels and levels you want to reach and offers suggestions on how much should be added.
I’ve shocked my pool 4 times and it clears up somewhat but it goes back to green in a couple of days . I keep the chlorine levels higher than normal to keep it from coming back and the ph is always a on a good level but algae comes back . It’s not super hot and the pool is under a shade so the sun is not the problem . What am I doing wrong ? My kids haven’t been able to use the pool in weeks it’s Star to get super frustrating?
@@Hx3ney It may help in the very short term to shock your pool, but the bottom line is you need to dilute the cyanuric acid in your pool. There are treatments sold at pool stores that claim to do this, however, in my opinion the best way to do this is to partially drain your pool and refill with new water. How much you need to pump out depends on the size of the pool and the CA levels of your water.
@@chuckschillingvideos I drained my pool somewhat and filled it. Tested it and it was just about within acceptable levels so I shocked and put algaecide. Very green and wondering now if it's green from copper or do I keep dumping shock. . Ugh think I'll just take a water sample to the pool place and hope the 16yr old isn't working that day 😫
@@SwimUniversity I took my sample up to my pool place. because I added a gallons of the high potent chlorine last night and it did barely nothing .after they tested found out that I needed to bring the pH down and I needed to add phosphurus in my pool water.
I have a 15x48 ft intext easy set pool. I have greenish algae water and shocked with hth super shock and nothing looked like it happened. I have the original pump that came with pool which is horrible but I dont know how to fix my pool. Please help
too little shock. 1st shock needs about 3x the amount needed. For instance, my pool needed 3 lbs of shock. I had to use 9 lbs of it on first shock, then 6lbs on second shock and 3rd shock, 4th shock at 3 lbs. and all seems normal now. Make sure pump is running to circulate water.
Exactly. I've read that the 🌞 sun's rays can deteriorate chlorine by 1PPM per hour, so shocking at night is preferred. Conversely, it's best to use algaecide - if you use it as a preventative measure - during the day as algae opens up, like a flower , during the day.
I had a cloudy water and visited our local Leslie swimming pool shop! Told them that I have a birthday party in a month and need to get it clear!
Needless to say I spent hundreds of dollars!
So our pool was still cloudy but after the birthday party! I used flock..
Shocked the pool then added flock, turned pump off after 2 hours and the next day everything was laying on the bottom! Could see for the first time!
Shock is awesome but just use flock and vacuum to waste with sand filter!
These sales commission hacks took me for a ride..
Shock, Flock, is the way!
Hi, I live in the Northeast and every year I disassemble my pump and filter and bring them inside. It's just so much easier than blowing out the lines and dealing with any other problems from ice. As such, I have a lot of threaded PVC. If you are looking for a new topic for this channel, as an amateur pool plumber I'd like to hear what you have to say about dealing with PVC. What type to use, how to seal connections, how tight should threaded connections be, common tools, etc. Thank you for your time, and I really appreciate your videos.
As long as your pump housing isn't full of water, it won't be harmed by leaving it outside. Not a bad idea to take your filter inside to prevent the freezing/thawing/freezing from making the filter fabric brittle, though.
I always find your videos are so entertaining and informative. Always look forward to your videos and great advice and your handbook is amazing.
I purchase the copper sulfate from Tractor Supply for "lakes & ponds" ... Way less expensive.2 Tsp a month for My 30,000 gallon Pool has been way easier & much less expensive.
Ugh - we had a horrible algae problem all last summer. We kept taking the water to the local pool shop, but it just wouldn't go away. Used shock and algaecide and spent way too much money. Subscribed, hoping for a better summer this year.
Ever check phosphate levels? phosphates are basically algae food and if you have high levels than algae will keep coming back
@@kingisaac1017 this year has been perfect! IDK what on earth happened last year, but will keep phosphate in mind.
I recently started looking after a friends pool..it had been neglected for about 1 month so pretty dirty and low water level... lots of pine tree pollen had gotten into the water and no matter what I did, I could not get rid of it.. turns out I now had an yellow algae bloom.. What I did was use a flocculant, I let run thru the system for a couple of hours then turned off the pump, next day after bringing the water level way up high I vacuumed to waste..I had to do it 2 or 3 times but now everything is perfect..ph good, chlorine good, and after cleaning the pool I add an antialgae. The whole process took about 5 weeks to straighten out. I have never looked after a pool before.. You should have seen me trying to get the air out of the hose the first time.. I actually got into the pool..lol
Bless your heart!! You’re a good friend!!! I had to be gone a while and actually made my good friend a video with all the steps of what I do. She said it worked great to have that.
Clowning around aside, this video is quite good and contains some simple and effective tips: shock pool with chlorine and keep pH in 7.4 - 7.6 range. Thanks
What are your thoughts about solar ionizers
I bought a couple of ionizers for my 35000 gallon pool. It definitely helps reduce the amount of chlorine that you need. They have copper rods and I'm a little concerned that maybe I'm getting copper spots. It also seemed to kill black algae. Maybe I should say dislodge because unfortunately I see it down at the bottom of my pool now
I agree on shocking sir but you forgot one important thing BRUSHING AFTER SHOCKING always shocking only kills some of the algae and bleaches the color out of the rest but if you brush at the same time as shocking and adding algaecide way better results been in the business for 39 years from building to servicing pools all kinds brushing brushing people dont ever brush ther pools enough that would stop 90 percent of all problems just brushing thanks for the video be safe and wash your hands ✌🖖
Almost everyone on this earth has lost COMMON SENSE
I put algae and water turn yellow 😰 don’t know what to do 🤯
This comment deserves so much praise. It's literally the first thing I tell people, and I always receive a look of despair. Yes! YOU HAVE TO BRUSH!. It should be brushed anyways at least once a week, whether it looks ok or not.
@@acatnamedstumpy1918 yeah I just learned that from another of this guy's videos
He goes over a lot of stuff on different videos, but with there being so many things to it, it's very helpful for others to remind us noobs 👍
I keep bruising and adding shock and can't get rid of it.
I have a 12 ft wide by 3 ft deep above ground pool with a vinyl liner. How much shock should I use to get rid of mustard algae?
I have watched several videos and wondered what it meant by shocking now I know cheers
Love to see a video on water bugs .....how to get rid of them....Backswimmers and Boatman bugs especially.
Running the vacuum more really cleared them out of ours
Love your videos. So helpful man, thank you!
Wow he makes allot of sence. Ty great information!
You really a good person thanks
I run Pool RX at start of every season. First, bring ph down to 7.2 ish, quad shock it till teal, then shock again next night. Once algae is dead, I backwash filter, drop a pool rx in pump basket then add in some chlorine to .5 to 2ppm (pool rx brings chlorine demand WAY down). Pool RX I know uses chelated metals but I've had zero stains. Some use some copper to drop in pool by itself, but you can see that as a big problem.
Please stop staying 1-3 ppm is the chlorine level for pools!!! The correct pool chlorine level is based on the CYA level. The minimum FC level is 7.5% of the CYA level. However, that is the minimum. So you should keep it higher, like at 11.5% to give you some error room. For example, if your CYA level is 50, then your FC level should be 6 ppm. This is safe to swim and gives you room to correct if FC drifts down. Most people have high CYA in their pool due to using chlorine pucks with CYA in them. The first thing to do is get CYA under control.
The key to shocking is to SLAM ("Shock Level And Maintain"). When you shock, you hold the FC level there until it does not go down. The SLAM level is typically 40% of your CYA level. So if your CYA is 50, then you would raise FC up to 20 ppm and hold it there. It could take days, but you will kill all the algae. Keep checking each hour or as often as possible. Brush, vacuum, and clean filter daily. By doing this, you will not have to shock every week. If your CYA is over 90, then you would have to drain and fill to get to a lower CYA level. Once your water is clear, your combined chlorine is less than 0.5 ppm and your overnight loss of FC is 1 or less, then you can stop the SLAM and allow the FC to drift back down to correct level.
CYA (Aka stabilizer) adds a lot of complexity to the problem. But I must say what you write here matches 100% with my experience. My CYA was off the charts. Had to take out about 1.5 feet of water and replace it to lower CYA (still high around 100). Then I saw results with being able to kill green algae. Following your formula, my FC should be 7.5 to 11.5. Seems very high but its at 10 right now and the water seems fine.
@@JoseRojasAbring that cya down another another 50 parts atleast 😂. it will save you alot of money in chlorine because it will require less. i do this professionally and can assure you that 30-50 ppm is far more ideal that 100.
will winter algicide with copper sulphatepentahydrte stain the liner green
Hello, looks like good info! Unable to download salt water cheat sheet, and the volume calc is inop. Works on the round one, but a simpl 20 x 4 feet "Fill in all required fields". Thanks
I have two retail stores, and I am constantly talking customers out of using algaecides as their first action to kill algae. Always chlorine first. Not the best sales results policy, but it helps them trust us, so they keep coming back.
Isn't yellow Algae chlorine resistant ?
@@PrettyGoodLookin more resistant yes, immune no. There are many things that are a factor.
Thank you I will definitely check your website
I've tried everything. Shocking, clarifier, checking chlorine levels...still fighting algae. I'm in central FL, and this summer is brutal. Is there another step if you're in extreme high heat and humidity??
Yeah, I never had any luck with algaecide the only year I had an algae problem. I read on a shock product that it would handle the algae, and I didn't know whether to trust it or not. Now I know. Thank you, sir!
DOUBLE or TRIPLE the shock amount every night until you see the water cleared up. Watch his other algae videos too
Once again, prevent algae by keeping your phosphates incredibly low (50ppb or less).
A small phosphate treatment regularly deals with the generator, not the symptom.
I run less that 1 ppm chlorine. Because I keep my phosphates so low, there's nothing for it to fight.
I have a pool and my phosphates are at 312 ppm. Please tell me how you keep your phosphates so low and maintain low phosphate numbers!!! Thanks in advance.
@@DFWJon for my pool, 2 caps of NoPhos from Leslies every 10 days does the trick.
Algea is my nemesis. Ive shocked to no end and vaccume daily but the bottom us covered every day.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
So glad I watched your video. This is exactly what I've been battling the past few months. My pool now has that yellow tint on steps, corners & edges from what I now understand is the copper in the algaecide products. Can I get rid of the stain by using ascorbic acid (which kills the chlorine levels as well) and then ultra shock my pool? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, if it's an organic stain.
@@SwimUniversity Isn't Yellow Algae chlorine resistant ?
funny and wise gentleman.Thanks man!
Thanks for info. Every year I go to get water tested and tell them waters green they try to push the algaecide.
what do you recommend for reducing/controlling phosphates?
Nothing really works other than filtering your source water. Take a sample of your tap water to your pool store. I can pretty much guarantee you that the phosphate levels are very high. All of the chemical treatments for phosphate reduction are expensive and not very effective.
At the end of the day, phosphates aren't that big a deal. I live in a screwy place where phosphates are literally over 5000 ppm straight out of the tap. It's impossible to get them anywhere close to reasonable levels, so I don't bother. And you know what? I don't have an algae problem at all. If you keep on top of your chlorine levels, your phosphate level is irrelevant. It won't matter what nutrient levels algae has if the water is toxic to it.
Most phosphate removers actually do their job. The source water (as stated above) and algae that has died from phosphate (algae's only food source) removal, will produce phosphates as well. If you use phosphate remover, wait until you've vacuumed your existing algae to waste, backwashed and rinsed your filter (remove and clean if cartridge filter), and shocked to pool. I feel phosphate remover works well here, especially if you can't constantly stay on top of your chlorine levels. It simply removes the food source (most common cause of algae) before it becomes a problem again.
@@djnix1348 They only reduce moderate levels of phosphates. And the bottom line is this. Phosphates are irrelevant to algae control. You HAVE to maintain proper free chlorine levels if you want to keep algae away. Period. Worrying about phosphates is just distraction. Actually, it's an AWESOME distraction for the folks at the pool supply stores because they get to sell you tons of very expensive phosphate reduction chemicals. Keep your chlorine levels up, and algae will never be a thing. Pretty simple.
How do I know this? My phosphate levels out of the tap are off the charts - 5000 PPM!!! There's no way to filter that out without bankrupting me. But I never have algae. Never. Because I maintain strong free chlorines, don't allow chloramines to accumulate, and never allow stabilizer levels to grow above 100 ppm.
@@chuckschillingvideos I read your post above sir. I know that there are people that can constantly maintain their chemistry based on time, availability or a number of conflicting issues. I dont mean to contradict, or imply that you don't have success with your own methods. I personally have one (and only one) pool on my route with an identical issue (high phos. in their source water). I had made trips to shock this pool 3 times a week sometimes, and algae still returned. I changed my approach and then had success. I simply wanted to give my opinion based on facts and my own personal experience. In my experience you are an outlier with that high of a count, and no existing algae. But to get to that point you spent nearly the same amount as the method I suggested. BTW Clorox has a very affordable phosphate remover available at walmart for $26 or so. I've had years of success as a professional with this and other phosphate removers.
I kept my chlorine at 5 ppm and pH level 7.5, but still algae grows like crazy, and the cyanuric acid is 50 ppm. Therefore, I think I have to reduce phosphate. What else can I do?
Ugh I wish I saw this video before I put copper based algaecide in my pool. How long before I can shock it? I am afraid I will turn it green
Dear sir, i enjoy your tutorials and sharing your knowledge.
I maintain a condomenium pool. We are using Diatomaceous Filters as mode of filtration.
The duty Filters run 24 hours.
A. Chlorine level between 1 to 3ppm.
B. Ph level and alkalinity level is in ideal range.
C. The filter elements are replaced not long ago.
D. The mosaic tile pointings/ groutings are well intact.
For somewhat reason, the water just doesn't look crystal clear. Looks slightly blurry but can see pool floor.
May i know how to improve water clarity and what can i look out for sir?
You need to shock the pool (I recommend using pool shock to increase chlorine above 16 ppm), then use a product called flocculant (or pool floc) so it binds all those small particles and precipates them into the bottom. After adding the pool floc, run the pool in recirculation (NOT FILTER) for about 8 hours and let it rest for another 8 hours. After that, vacuum to WASTE.
for this you need to fill the pool to have more water because it will be gone cuz vacuum to waste
This is just my thoughts after 30 years of having a pool. I advise you of a few things. #1 is to buy a high quality pool test kit such as the Taylor K-2006. You will find a pool chemistry bible inside that is priceless as well.
#2 Test your water a minimum of 4 days a week.
#3 Balance your water before using any form of Chlorine (unstabilized liquid is best) and btw 1-3 ppm of Cl is way too low a level for pools and you must understand the effect chlorine stabilizer has on pool sanitation as well. Google it if you dont believe me.
#4 Stay far away from the pool store guidance. You should use an online pool water calculator to determine your chemical needs instead.
I used a Poly 40% algaecide, is it okay to use a phosphate remover?
What do you recommend for removing/controlling phosphates?
Do I run the sand pump on filter or circulate after adding algaecide?
Leslie’s pool reps say once your phosphates get to a 1000 it’s almost a guaranteed that you see frequent algae blooms. The only way to get a handle on things is to kill the algae with non-copper algaecide and then add a phosphate remover to be added weekly which also happens to be the name of the product Weekly. Then continue to regular scheduled maintenance with 3ppm minimum free chlorine. Wondering is this seems plausible.
Phosphate remover first. Then algecide. You gotta cut off its food supply first. Then kill it.
Thank you
Can I ask you a question? I just got my kids a blow up ring pool the 15 foot one by 48" I think. When you say parts per million I dont understand I'm new to this lol. I bought shock and I have standered chlorine pucks with a dispenser that floats around the pool. What would you recommend? I also got the crystal clear stuff. Thanks!!
You need test strips
You don’t understand because you need to watch his videos on balancing all levels. Testing the water gives you numbers and based on those numbers you will know if you are putting all the chemicals in the pool at the correct level, when levels are off that’s when people have pool problems that’s why it’s so important to stay on top of all of your pool levels so definitely check out that video of his, he will tell you EXACTLY what to do and what to use.
Algae needs oxygen and phosphate to live. When algae dies, it produces phosphate. I had a mustard algae problem where I was on the shock, clean, balance PH cycle of death. Once I started adding a phosphate remover a couple of times - the cycle finally ended. Now I just ensure my chlorine and PH are at the correct levels and pool life is fun again!
What are your thoughts of PoolRx? Sounds like a good idea if it requires less chlorine. Would love to hear your thoughts on it.
It has metals in it. The less metals in your pool the better
Copper algaecide isn't bad it just has to be maintained at a certain level or it causes issues. (That level is around .2 ppm) Maintaining that copper level and weekly Polyquat will keep algae at bay and you won't have an issue. But yeah, dumping in a copper based algaecide every couple weeks is going to end badly.
So as the video said: just shock the pool instead of using algaecide.
Most city water already has diluted metals that add up like calcium hardness on every pool water top off. Why add more metals in the pool if you can avoid it.
We have a 20’ round pool. We got what looks like mustard algae. We double shocked it. A day later it had alge all throughout the bottom of the pool. I use the vacuum to suck it up and for the last 5 days I wake everyday to more sitting there. The pool isn’t cloudy really or slimy. I’ve brushed it and got down in the flaps with the vacuum. I cleaned and replaced the filter. It’s still there. We keep 2 chlorine tablets in it at all times. And still every morning there is algae sitting on the bottom of the pool. I need some help. I don’t know what to do to get it out of there and keep it out.
Our pool people stain our pool liner a deep blue color when they came out to open our pool for the season. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this.
Used a green to blue kit and it worked! Got everything to the bottom and it looked clear again after being bright green! But when I vacuumed it just spread it everywhere again, less green but still super cloudy again.
It’s a funsicle 16ft
round so not the best filter I’m guessing.
What do I do from here? 😂
Good advice. I used algicide and it did work but it turned my filter green.
Its normal for it to go green and its not just from algicide, clean it or replace it that is normal
Getting remnants of black algae in the whirlpool portion of the saltwater pool. Recommendations?
Ok so i am a new pool owner and i messed up and put the algeagaurd in first. I waited about 3 hours and then added the stabilizer. How bad did i mess up?
Just like you said the algae is like rust! Not even my metal brush won’t scrub it off. So plyquat? should work?
Thank you SU for sharing your knowledge, i never regret purchasing your vid tutorials and handbook.
However, can you make a tutorial on how to clean calcium build up on concrete/tile flooring ? I already tried brushing it with low pH (7.0) but minimal effect. Do i have to lower the pH more? And why does my chlorine tablet, when i accidentally left it on the pool flooring , removed the calcium build up on that specific area after 8 hours. TIA
I can certainly do that! I'll add it to the list.
I can help answer your question in the meantime. I’m sure Swim University will create a amazing video in much more detail than me - but I hope I can help some...
Calcium build up is usually removed via using a ‘Pumice Stone”. You can find pumice stone’s in most pool stores or online. They are pretty inexpensive. Going about it with chemicals is not really recommended as a ‘first try’ as not only will using chemicals like you described throw off your whole chemical balance of your pool but it can be very dangerous if you’re not careful.
An example is lowering your pH, basically means increasing the ‘acidity’ of the water. If you have a pool heater - it is possible to damage the heat exchanger by running acidic water thru it; as well as possibly damage other key pool equipment. If you do lower the pH below 7.2 and you have a heater; just ensure it has a ‘bypass’ mode and ensure you bypass it first. I wouldn’t recommend acid to fix a calcium build up issue, even though acid *will* work - that does not mean its a good idea. The only way our company would use acid for any pool clean-ups would typically be something like an ‘acid wash’ its called. That process requires for you to pretty much drain the pool (I’m pretty sure Swim University has a video or post on his website about that, but I may be wrong).
By draining the pool when using acid; there is no way that acidic water is ran through the equipment; yet you can benefit from the power of acid and honestly it makes most pools look new (even though I don’t recommend it as a DIY project. I recommend if you choose this option to contact a local pool professional to do the job as acid is very powerful and can eat a hole right through the bottom of your pool by itself.)
Sorry for the long response. The long-term solution for Calcium build-up is to lower the calcium level of your pool. As far as I’m aware, the only way to do this is to drain out some pool water and replace it with new water (ensure you take a water sample of your hose water to a local pool store or use a test kit to ensure your hose water has a low calcium level first. I’ve seen quite a few cases where the calcium of hose water was HIGH and therefore made the issue worse.). Remember calcium is like salt - it does not leave your pool via evaporation or anything other than draining the water and replacing the water with water with less calcium. Someone correct me if I’m wrong; from my knowledge, there is no chemical to lower your calcium level. I’m pretty sure one company came out with a product a few years back; but it didn’t work for me and they are no longer around.
So your best bet is what I originally said; a pumice stone.
Again, sorry for the long response - I love to help fellow homeowners and share knowledge. Good luck!
And I agree that purchasing Swim University tutorials and information is never a waste. Google, Reddit, TH-cam, etc. has all the information in the World; but the ‘Pool Industry’ is a small industry and I see SO MUCH bad advice on a daily basis. I’ve said this before many times; Swim University is one of the few who talks about what they know and its accurate. Pool mistakes get EXPENSIVE so spending a little money for some amazing *accurate* advice is priceless in my opinion.
+Swim University: I’ll contact you via DM or FB as I’d love to offer some of your tutorials/handbooks for sale on our website. I’ve never done that in the past as I’ve never agreed with all the advice from others. 60% of our sales are repeat purchases; so my priority is the customer and the long term relationship with our customers. We refuse to sell ‘generic’ products which are cheaply made even though we can make a extra $100K/yr. You have a very strong brand which customers trust and I hope you know us well enough to know we are the same way. The customer is always #1 to us. Thanks!
how would i clean algae off a cartridge pool filter?
Great help, thanks for sharing and making it easy to watch with the cheesy comments! :)
So does this mean I don’t need to buy algicide? I can just shock it once a week and the algae will be gone?
I overdid it on the algeacide, and now my pool is super foamy😢 how can I correct this?
I have tried everything green to clean, Algatec with clarinet my pool is 40K gallons nasty green nothing has worked. I’m going to use only shock like you suggested. How much should I use 10, 12 how many pounds for 40,000 gal, I’m so tired of wasting money. I bought an external pump so the nasty stuff on bottom won’t go in my filter. Brand new pump worked 5 minutes and stopped. Sent back got another one it did the exact same thing. I’ll buy a different pump bc I have to vacuum the bottom to get control of this algae problem. pLEASE help me
Polyquat algaecide is the only thing to use. Use as a preventative, not a treatment. Use once a year. If the ingredient starts with ‘poly’ it’s the right stuff. Never use copper based.
We have green algae so I dumped 128 ounce bottle of algaecide into the pool today. Then I saw this video basically saying I screwed up.. Now what do I do ???
I followed your directions with an 8k green pool - shocked - next day teal- shocked again and 3rd day no change still teal. Now I don’t know what to do. Any suggestions?
Except shock wont kill a yellow algea problem unless its growing on the ground, then the cal-hypo granules will burn it off because of direct contact. The algea on the walls will flourish.
Yellow algea doesn't care about chlorine. You can dump 30 gallons of chlorine in the pool, 8 bags of shock, program the pump to run 24/7 and that yellow algea will not only be completely unscathed but it will continue to paint your entire pool yellow until it gets so thick then it looks green. And even if you kill it completely it will always come back because it is litterly in our water supply
Hi there! So my experience with chlorine and mustard algae has been different. We tried algaecide, chlorine pucks (and we have a salt water pool), backs of shock, and nothing worked. We started following the SLAM method and overnight, our pool was clear. To keep it that way will take a couple more days (until we finish SLAM and can get back to normal FC levels), but it’s working when nothing else did. We’re just using liquid chlorine from Walmart. If your stabilizer (CYA) level is good, it should work. Just wanted to share because this was a game changer for us!
My question is do you have to use algaecide for a 1100 gallon above ground pool??
What happens when you shock pool and it's still green. Power was out and pump stopped while on vacation. Pool water was clear, but green algae at the bottom, vacuumed and shocked now chlorine is 5+ and whole pool is still green 2 days later? TIA
I use straight 99% copper sulfate. Works great.
I have a green pool about 25000 gallon How much shock should I add to it? Should I add Stabilized shock or Unstablized shock
Probably 2 bags I'm not sure
read the label on the shock. usually tells you how much gallon it will treat. 1st shock, use 3x the amount of what the label said. Usually 1 bag is good for 10000 gallons, so your normal shock would be about 3 bags, 1st shock would be 9 bags. unstablized shock works best, since it doesn't have any inhibiter for chlorine to work with. But that means need to shock when sun is down so. run pump 24hours for next few days.
Ugh, I added the black mold algaecide probably copper based a few days ago and it’s still frothy. Will that eventually go away? How do I get it out of the water. Kinda pissed Lelsie pool just told me to dump a bunch in the pool rather than just shocking it.
Thx!
Very detailed knowledge explanation
Unfortunately shocking may not remove black algae, using an algicide with silver as a main ingredient may be the remedy for a black algae break out.
Thank you!! Was doing something's wrong
I don't even know if what is laying randomly at the bottom of my pool is algae? Or is it dirt.. when you take the pool net across the bottom..it just disappears in the water until it's still enough and it settles back down..
I had a problem similar to yours. I backwashed my sand filter. Same thing would happen, the stuff would just poof like dust. I recently found out that after a backwash, you need to set the filter to rinse for a little bit. Do you use the rinse cycle?
Now I have clear water, but there is sheeting of dark green stuff on the bottom of the pool (vinyl/above ground). Is this algae with clear water?
Need some advice. My ph is at 7.5 and chlorine levels are 1.5-2ppm but I keep on getting small green algae spots throughout the pool every 2-3 days. How do I fix this. P.s. outdoor temperature is usually over 30*c everyday for 2-3 months. Any suggestions?
Get your CYA up to about 50ppm. Then double your current clorine level. Be sure your alkalinity level is below 150ppm, preferably 120-125ppm, lastly brush your pool.
1 think i am wondering is.
why not use algae eating fish instead of chlorine?
cause then you'll have fish waste to worry about and nothing to disinfect it.
Chlorine is toxic to fish, even the levels in regular tap water will kill them.
What is the best SHOCK product or ingredient percentages to purchase? I currently use a shock which has a high (sodiumdichliro-s Triaznetrione hydrated 99%) and algae still exist especially during 90° and above temperatures.
Only use calcium hypochlorite
I have a summer waves above ground pool. I got up one morning and the water was green.
I went bought a bottle of HTH shock . When I put it in the pool the water turned brown.
How do I fix this.
First I like to net, brush, and vacuum the algaey pool, even If I can't see the bottom, and rinse the filter. You don't want all the heavy stuff getting in the way of the chlorine, you wanna shock the loose particles that are clouding the water.
I have an Eco-Smart chemical free pool. It uses copper plates to sanitize.
how do you get rid of the stain the algaecide created?
Been having a mild green algae problem and after balancing PH level and all I've shocked the pool killing all algae, used flocculant to bring all algae to but when I tried to vacuum it my pool blaster catfish ultra seems to pick up some algae and shoot out the rest dispersing it in the water. I've tried to increase the filtration of vacuum by adding different materials but I get same results. So I ended up using a water hose attached to the pole to siphon out all algae from bottom of pool which worked well although it's a lengthy and awkward method. I now have water pretty clear until you disturb the bottom and see a little cloudiness. Are there any vacuum designed to pick up all algae? Any other suggestions? Thanks a lot
Hope you got your answer before now. But if not, I was having the same issue and so I watched 1 million videos and read 1 million opinions. Someone told me to go slow like us now so that’s what I started doing and S stop saying the energy being pushed up into the water when I was vacuuming. Some people say the water hose is a better way to do it, but no matter what way you have to go like a snail.
Your intro is actually Swimtro
Hey there. Needing some help with our pool. We filled it up with water, shocked it & it turned brown. Found out we have high iron levels in our water. So we bought this product called suspend from our local pool place. Done what they said, filled up 2 feet, put in suspend, filled up rest of way. Then we shocked it again. Turned brown again, we made this home made filter. It removed all of the brown! Pool was clear. Looked great. Put chlorine tablet in, then it started to turn a little green, so we put algicide in it and now it’s yellow green. Ph was a little high, so we put ph decrease in, and it’s still yellow green.
What exactly do we need to do to get this cleared up?
I wish you could do video about quality in seawater Aquaculture.
We need to treat for 30,000 for algea. I have 1 jug of liquid chlorine (128 floz) and 1 bag of powder shock (1 bag treat 10,000 gal). I don't have anything else on hand at the moment. Can I dump both of those in to get it to kill green algea.
Watched your video did what you said shocked the hell out of it! It went from mustard green to milky blue and has been this color for a week. Everything is testing good, pH 7.3 alkalinity is within the ok stabilizer is a little low but not much. What next please HELP!!! have not been able to use the pool yet this year fighting this back and forth three times now. Thanks in advance
I have been in pools for 39 years i would a filter enhancer if you have a sand filter or de filter if you have a cartridge filter i would add a flocking g agent to settle all the fine particulate to the pool bottom and the vaccum to waste and ALWAYS ALWAYS brush your pool at least twice a week i cant stress it enough
use either flock or clarifier. flock makes everything goes down to the bottom, and you'll need to manually vacuum it to waste. clarifier clumps them together so your filter and filter it out easily, but this is a slower process, and will have to backwash your filter more often.
I am dealing with green algae and cant seem toget rid of it. I jave shocked the pool multiple times, has bee. About 12-15ppm for the last 2 weeksbutno improvent. My CYA was about 100 so dropped it to 50 but still no improvememt. Ph was 7.8 dropped it to 7.4. I cant do flocculant and vaccum to waste because the pool is in an inclined area an the water runs to my neighbor. I have been brushing daily. The pool place here told not yo keep shocking...they gaveme a non chlorine shock 2 days ago....still looks terrible. A friend of mine said alguicide but i saw thos video so didn't go that route. Any ideas?
I have a pool that's 12' by 30" it holds about 2000 gallons of water. Could you please explain the parts pre million for chlorine addition.
use test strips to measure your chlorine level. the Strip will let you know about how much ppm you have in the pool
My family owns a pool store and we have run across something called pink algae. That is harder to remove than mustard and green but not as hard to remove as black.
Pink algae… Sounds like a baquisil pool. No?
30.000 gal pool can I add 3 bottle of bleach each week instead of shock.
Also how can I remove rust on skimmer plates thks.
just get new skimmer plates they are just on there with screws
Depends upon the chlorine level you want to reach. Might be too little to shock, but if you keep the pool in balance you might not need any bleach each week. What level you should aim for when shocking is also affected by your stabilizer (cyanuric acid) levels. Bleach marketed for pool use usually has a considerably higher % of sodium hypochlorite than what you’ll find in the laundry aisle. The % will affect the volume needed. I like poolcalculator.com which is free if you use the website (they charge for the app, but it isn’t necessary). It allows you to specify current levels and levels you want to reach and offers suggestions on how much should be added.
I’ve shocked my pool 4 times and it clears up somewhat but it goes back to green in a couple of days . I keep the chlorine levels higher than normal to keep it from coming back and the ph is always a on a good level but algae comes back . It’s not super hot and the pool is under a shade so the sun is not the problem . What am I doing wrong ? My kids haven’t been able to use the pool in weeks it’s Star to get super frustrating?
I'll bet your cyanuric acid is too high. Have you checked it?
The alkaline levels also need to be "good"
@@chuckschillingvideos my cyanuric levels are too high I'm having same problem. Should I keep shocking?
@@Hx3ney It may help in the very short term to shock your pool, but the bottom line is you need to dilute the cyanuric acid in your pool. There are treatments sold at pool stores that claim to do this, however, in my opinion the best way to do this is to partially drain your pool and refill with new water. How much you need to pump out depends on the size of the pool and the CA levels of your water.
@@chuckschillingvideos I drained my pool somewhat and filled it. Tested it and it was just about within acceptable levels so I shocked and put algaecide. Very green and wondering now if it's green from copper or do I keep dumping shock. . Ugh think I'll just take a water sample to the pool place and hope the 16yr old isn't working that day 😫
is “ shock it” the same as chlorine
Shocking is another term for oxidizing. You can either use a high dose of chlorine or non-chlorine shock.
@@SwimUniversity I took my sample up to my pool place. because I added a gallons of the high potent chlorine last night and it did barely nothing .after they tested found out that I needed to bring the pH down and I needed to add phosphurus in my pool water.
What is the proper way to add gallons of chlorine to your pool?
I have a 15x48 ft intext easy set pool. I have greenish algae water and shocked with hth super shock and nothing looked like it happened. I have the original pump that came with pool which is horrible but I dont know how to fix my pool. Please help
too little shock. 1st shock needs about 3x the amount needed. For instance, my pool needed 3 lbs of shock. I had to use 9 lbs of it on first shock, then 6lbs on second shock and 3rd shock, 4th shock at 3 lbs. and all seems normal now. Make sure pump is running to circulate water.
Can you make a video just talking about baquacil?
How do unlock my pool? I feel it’s locked up
We also learned that it is possible to over shock a pool and basically freeze it where nothing works.
Does the shocking method to kill algae work for salt water pools as well?
I heard that putting chlorine/shocking is better at night. Is that true? Why?
goaley45 because in the morning the sun’s ray breaks down the chlorine so it doesn’t work as well as night where there is no sun. Yw
Exactly. I've read that the 🌞 sun's rays can deteriorate chlorine by 1PPM per hour, so shocking at night is preferred. Conversely, it's best to use algaecide - if you use it as a preventative measure - during the day as algae opens up, like a flower , during the day.
The suns uv rays will strip chlorine out of your pool. Better to shock ur pool at dusk
Can you shock a salt water pool
My chlorine level is at 10 PPM but I have algae. Why?
Check your pH and clean your filter
Doesn’t the FROG LEAP system use copper?
Hmmmm, interesting and helpful
Oxidizing removes electrons by reduction. It doesn’t remove oxygen.
What if you have allot of manganese in your water
Ignore it. How would you know how much manganese you have in your water anyway?