The TRUTH About Using ALGAECIDE In Your POOL | Swim University
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- Should you use algaecide to kill algae in your pool? Does it actually work? Is there a faster way to get rid of green pool water? The truth about algaecide is right here.
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⏰ Timestamps:
00:00 - Introduction To Using Algaecide In Your Pool
01:09 - How Algaecide Works And Why It Stains
02:13 - Why Metal Sequestrant Won't Work
03:00 - How To Use Pool Shock To Kill Algae
03:58 - How To Prevent Algae In Your Pool
04:48 - When To Use Algaecide
05:31 - Pool Care Video Course
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I had a cloudy water and visited our local Leslie swimming pool shop! Told them that I have a birthday party in a month and need to get it clear!
Needless to say I spent hundreds of dollars!
So our pool was still cloudy but after the birthday party! I used flock..
Shocked the pool then added flock, turned pump off after 2 hours and the next day everything was laying on the bottom! Could see for the first time!
Shock is awesome but just use flock and vacuum to waste with sand filter!
These sales commission hacks took me for a ride..
Shock, Flock, is the way!
I purchase the copper sulfate from Tractor Supply for "lakes & ponds" ... Way less expensive.2 Tsp a month for My 30,000 gallon Pool has been way easier & much less expensive.
I always find your videos are so entertaining and informative. Always look forward to your videos and great advice and your handbook is amazing.
Love your videos. So helpful man, thank you!
Thank you I will definitely check your website
Hi, I live in the Northeast and every year I disassemble my pump and filter and bring them inside. It's just so much easier than blowing out the lines and dealing with any other problems from ice. As such, I have a lot of threaded PVC. If you are looking for a new topic for this channel, as an amateur pool plumber I'd like to hear what you have to say about dealing with PVC. What type to use, how to seal connections, how tight should threaded connections be, common tools, etc. Thank you for your time, and I really appreciate your videos.
As long as your pump housing isn't full of water, it won't be harmed by leaving it outside. Not a bad idea to take your filter inside to prevent the freezing/thawing/freezing from making the filter fabric brittle, though.
Wow he makes allot of sence. Ty great information!
Clowning around aside, this video is quite good and contains some simple and effective tips: shock pool with chlorine and keep pH in 7.4 - 7.6 range. Thanks
Hello, looks like good info! Unable to download salt water cheat sheet, and the volume calc is inop. Works on the round one, but a simpl 20 x 4 feet "Fill in all required fields". Thanks
funny and wise gentleman.Thanks man!
You really a good person thanks
What do you recommend for removing/controlling phosphates?
I have a 12 ft wide by 3 ft deep above ground pool with a vinyl liner. How much shock should I use to get rid of mustard algae?
I have watched several videos and wondered what it meant by shocking now I know cheers
I run Pool RX at start of every season. First, bring ph down to 7.2 ish, quad shock it till teal, then shock again next night. Once algae is dead, I backwash filter, drop a pool rx in pump basket then add in some chlorine to .5 to 2ppm (pool rx brings chlorine demand WAY down). Pool RX I know uses chelated metals but I've had zero stains. Some use some copper to drop in pool by itself, but you can see that as a big problem.
Thank you!! Was doing something's wrong
Good advice. I used algicide and it did work but it turned my filter green.
I recently started looking after a friends pool..it had been neglected for about 1 month so pretty dirty and low water level... lots of pine tree pollen had gotten into the water and no matter what I did, I could not get rid of it.. turns out I now had an yellow algae bloom.. What I did was use a flocculant, I let run thru the system for a couple of hours then turned off the pump, next day after bringing the water level way up high I vacuumed to waste..I had to do it 2 or 3 times but now everything is perfect..ph good, chlorine good, and after cleaning the pool I add an antialgae. The whole process took about 5 weeks to straighten out. I have never looked after a pool before.. You should have seen me trying to get the air out of the hose the first time.. I actually got into the pool..lol
Bless your heart!! You’re a good friend!!! I had to be gone a while and actually made my good friend a video with all the steps of what I do. She said it worked great to have that.
Algae needs oxygen and phosphate to live. When algae dies, it produces phosphate. I had a mustard algae problem where I was on the shock, clean, balance PH cycle of death. Once I started adding a phosphate remover a couple of times - the cycle finally ended. Now I just ensure my chlorine and PH are at the correct levels and pool life is fun again!
I agree on shocking sir but you forgot one important thing BRUSHING AFTER SHOCKING always shocking only kills some of the algae and bleaches the color out of the rest but if you brush at the same time as shocking and adding algaecide way better results been in the business for 39 years from building to servicing pools all kinds brushing brushing people dont ever brush ther pools enough that would stop 90 percent of all problems just brushing thanks for the video be safe and wash your hands ✌🖖
Almost everyone on this earth has lost COMMON SENSE
I put algae and water turn yellow 😰 don’t know what to do 🤯
This comment deserves so much praise. It's literally the first thing I tell people, and I always receive a look of despair. Yes! YOU HAVE TO BRUSH!. It should be brushed anyways at least once a week, whether it looks ok or not.
@@acatnamedstumpy1918 yeah I just learned that from another of this guy's videos
He goes over a lot of stuff on different videos, but with there being so many things to it, it's very helpful for others to remind us noobs 👍
I keep bruising and adding shock and can't get rid of it.
Thanks for info. Every year I go to get water tested and tell them waters green they try to push the algaecide.
Ugh - we had a horrible algae problem all last summer. We kept taking the water to the local pool shop, but it just wouldn't go away. Used shock and algaecide and spent way too much money. Subscribed, hoping for a better summer this year.
Ever check phosphate levels? phosphates are basically algae food and if you have high levels than algae will keep coming back
@@kingisaac1017 this year has been perfect! IDK what on earth happened last year, but will keep phosphate in mind.
What is the best vacuum to use and how to keep my pool clear and blue
Very detailed knowledge explanation
Great help, thanks for sharing and making it easy to watch with the cheesy comments! :)
Love to see a video on water bugs .....how to get rid of them....Backswimmers and Boatman bugs especially.
Running the vacuum more really cleared them out of ours
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
So glad I watched your video. This is exactly what I've been battling the past few months. My pool now has that yellow tint on steps, corners & edges from what I now understand is the copper in the algaecide products. Can I get rid of the stain by using ascorbic acid (which kills the chlorine levels as well) and then ultra shock my pool? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, if it's an organic stain.
@@SwimUniversity Isn't Yellow Algae chlorine resistant ?
will winter algicide with copper sulphatepentahydrte stain the liner green
Thank you SU for sharing your knowledge, i never regret purchasing your vid tutorials and handbook.
However, can you make a tutorial on how to clean calcium build up on concrete/tile flooring ? I already tried brushing it with low pH (7.0) but minimal effect. Do i have to lower the pH more? And why does my chlorine tablet, when i accidentally left it on the pool flooring , removed the calcium build up on that specific area after 8 hours. TIA
I can certainly do that! I'll add it to the list.
I can help answer your question in the meantime. I’m sure Swim University will create a amazing video in much more detail than me - but I hope I can help some...
Calcium build up is usually removed via using a ‘Pumice Stone”. You can find pumice stone’s in most pool stores or online. They are pretty inexpensive. Going about it with chemicals is not really recommended as a ‘first try’ as not only will using chemicals like you described throw off your whole chemical balance of your pool but it can be very dangerous if you’re not careful.
An example is lowering your pH, basically means increasing the ‘acidity’ of the water. If you have a pool heater - it is possible to damage the heat exchanger by running acidic water thru it; as well as possibly damage other key pool equipment. If you do lower the pH below 7.2 and you have a heater; just ensure it has a ‘bypass’ mode and ensure you bypass it first. I wouldn’t recommend acid to fix a calcium build up issue, even though acid *will* work - that does not mean its a good idea. The only way our company would use acid for any pool clean-ups would typically be something like an ‘acid wash’ its called. That process requires for you to pretty much drain the pool (I’m pretty sure Swim University has a video or post on his website about that, but I may be wrong).
By draining the pool when using acid; there is no way that acidic water is ran through the equipment; yet you can benefit from the power of acid and honestly it makes most pools look new (even though I don’t recommend it as a DIY project. I recommend if you choose this option to contact a local pool professional to do the job as acid is very powerful and can eat a hole right through the bottom of your pool by itself.)
Sorry for the long response. The long-term solution for Calcium build-up is to lower the calcium level of your pool. As far as I’m aware, the only way to do this is to drain out some pool water and replace it with new water (ensure you take a water sample of your hose water to a local pool store or use a test kit to ensure your hose water has a low calcium level first. I’ve seen quite a few cases where the calcium of hose water was HIGH and therefore made the issue worse.). Remember calcium is like salt - it does not leave your pool via evaporation or anything other than draining the water and replacing the water with water with less calcium. Someone correct me if I’m wrong; from my knowledge, there is no chemical to lower your calcium level. I’m pretty sure one company came out with a product a few years back; but it didn’t work for me and they are no longer around.
So your best bet is what I originally said; a pumice stone.
Again, sorry for the long response - I love to help fellow homeowners and share knowledge. Good luck!
And I agree that purchasing Swim University tutorials and information is never a waste. Google, Reddit, TH-cam, etc. has all the information in the World; but the ‘Pool Industry’ is a small industry and I see SO MUCH bad advice on a daily basis. I’ve said this before many times; Swim University is one of the few who talks about what they know and its accurate. Pool mistakes get EXPENSIVE so spending a little money for some amazing *accurate* advice is priceless in my opinion.
+Swim University: I’ll contact you via DM or FB as I’d love to offer some of your tutorials/handbooks for sale on our website. I’ve never done that in the past as I’ve never agreed with all the advice from others. 60% of our sales are repeat purchases; so my priority is the customer and the long term relationship with our customers. We refuse to sell ‘generic’ products which are cheaply made even though we can make a extra $100K/yr. You have a very strong brand which customers trust and I hope you know us well enough to know we are the same way. The customer is always #1 to us. Thanks!
Thx!
Do I run the sand pump on filter or circulate after adding algaecide?
I used a Poly 40% algaecide, is it okay to use a phosphate remover?
Getting remnants of black algae in the whirlpool portion of the saltwater pool. Recommendations?
Thank you
What are your thoughts of PoolRx? Sounds like a good idea if it requires less chlorine. Would love to hear your thoughts on it.
It has metals in it. The less metals in your pool the better
I wish you could do video about quality in seawater Aquaculture.
I have a summer waves above ground pool. I got up one morning and the water was green.
I went bought a bottle of HTH shock . When I put it in the pool the water turned brown.
How do I fix this.
Our pool people stain our pool liner a deep blue color when they came out to open our pool for the season. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this.
how do you get rid of the stain the algaecide created?
Do you currently have algae in your pool or is your pool water looking green, yellow, or black? We hope this video helped! If you'd like to learn more about pool cleaning and pool maintenance, subscribe and leave a comment to suggest a future video topic. And visit www.SwimUniversity.com/pool to get the Pool Care Handbook and Video Course (Use The Promo Code VIDEO for 10% Off!)
I saw one article that said you could use algaecide to kill springtails and prevent further springtails, any thoughts or recommendations on this?
No just got the water delivery today
Yeah, I never had any luck with algaecide the only year I had an algae problem. I read on a shock product that it would handle the algae, and I didn't know whether to trust it or not. Now I know. Thank you, sir!
DOUBLE or TRIPLE the shock amount every night until you see the water cleared up. Watch his other algae videos too
We need to treat for 30,000 for algea. I have 1 jug of liquid chlorine (128 floz) and 1 bag of powder shock (1 bag treat 10,000 gal). I don't have anything else on hand at the moment. Can I dump both of those in to get it to kill green algea.
Just like you said the algae is like rust! Not even my metal brush won’t scrub it off. So plyquat? should work?
What is the best SHOCK product or ingredient percentages to purchase? I currently use a shock which has a high (sodiumdichliro-s Triaznetrione hydrated 99%) and algae still exist especially during 90° and above temperatures.
Only use calcium hypochlorite
Hmmmm, interesting and helpful
I have an Eco-Smart chemical free pool. It uses copper plates to sanitize.
I use straight 99% copper sulfate. Works great.
Ugh, I added the black mold algaecide probably copper based a few days ago and it’s still frothy. Will that eventually go away? How do I get it out of the water. Kinda pissed Lelsie pool just told me to dump a bunch in the pool rather than just shocking it.
My question is do you have to use algaecide for a 1100 gallon above ground pool??
Ok so i am a new pool owner and i messed up and put the algeagaurd in first. I waited about 3 hours and then added the stabilizer. How bad did i mess up?
Can I ask you a question? I just got my kids a blow up ring pool the 15 foot one by 48" I think. When you say parts per million I dont understand I'm new to this lol. I bought shock and I have standered chlorine pucks with a dispenser that floats around the pool. What would you recommend? I also got the crystal clear stuff. Thanks!!
You need test strips
You don’t understand because you need to watch his videos on balancing all levels. Testing the water gives you numbers and based on those numbers you will know if you are putting all the chemicals in the pool at the correct level, when levels are off that’s when people have pool problems that’s why it’s so important to stay on top of all of your pool levels so definitely check out that video of his, he will tell you EXACTLY what to do and what to use.
Used a green to blue kit and it worked! Got everything to the bottom and it looked clear again after being bright green! But when I vacuumed it just spread it everywhere again, less green but still super cloudy again.
It’s a funsicle 16ft
round so not the best filter I’m guessing.
What do I do from here? 😂
Can you make a video just talking about baquacil?
I have a pool that's 12' by 30" it holds about 2000 gallons of water. Could you please explain the parts pre million for chlorine addition.
use test strips to measure your chlorine level. the Strip will let you know about how much ppm you have in the pool
What are your thoughts about solar ionizers
I bought a couple of ionizers for my 35000 gallon pool. It definitely helps reduce the amount of chlorine that you need. They have copper rods and I'm a little concerned that maybe I'm getting copper spots. It also seemed to kill black algae. Maybe I should say dislodge because unfortunately I see it down at the bottom of my pool now
Please stop staying 1-3 ppm is the chlorine level for pools!!! The correct pool chlorine level is based on the CYA level. The minimum FC level is 7.5% of the CYA level. However, that is the minimum. So you should keep it higher, like at 11.5% to give you some error room. For example, if your CYA level is 50, then your FC level should be 6 ppm. This is safe to swim and gives you room to correct if FC drifts down. Most people have high CYA in their pool due to using chlorine pucks with CYA in them. The first thing to do is get CYA under control.
The key to shocking is to SLAM ("Shock Level And Maintain"). When you shock, you hold the FC level there until it does not go down. The SLAM level is typically 40% of your CYA level. So if your CYA is 50, then you would raise FC up to 20 ppm and hold it there. It could take days, but you will kill all the algae. Keep checking each hour or as often as possible. Brush, vacuum, and clean filter daily. By doing this, you will not have to shock every week. If your CYA is over 90, then you would have to drain and fill to get to a lower CYA level. Once your water is clear, your combined chlorine is less than 0.5 ppm and your overnight loss of FC is 1 or less, then you can stop the SLAM and allow the FC to drift back down to correct level.
CYA (Aka stabilizer) adds a lot of complexity to the problem. But I must say what you write here matches 100% with my experience. My CYA was off the charts. Had to take out about 1.5 feet of water and replace it to lower CYA (still high around 100). Then I saw results with being able to kill green algae. Following your formula, my FC should be 7.5 to 11.5. Seems very high but its at 10 right now and the water seems fine.
@@JoseRojasAbring that cya down another another 50 parts atleast 😂. it will save you alot of money in chlorine because it will require less. i do this professionally and can assure you that 30-50 ppm is far more ideal that 100.
Hey there. Needing some help with our pool. We filled it up with water, shocked it & it turned brown. Found out we have high iron levels in our water. So we bought this product called suspend from our local pool place. Done what they said, filled up 2 feet, put in suspend, filled up rest of way. Then we shocked it again. Turned brown again, we made this home made filter. It removed all of the brown! Pool was clear. Looked great. Put chlorine tablet in, then it started to turn a little green, so we put algicide in it and now it’s yellow green. Ph was a little high, so we put ph decrease in, and it’s still yellow green.
What exactly do we need to do to get this cleared up?
Dear sir, i enjoy your tutorials and sharing your knowledge.
I maintain a condomenium pool. We are using Diatomaceous Filters as mode of filtration.
The duty Filters run 24 hours.
A. Chlorine level between 1 to 3ppm.
B. Ph level and alkalinity level is in ideal range.
C. The filter elements are replaced not long ago.
D. The mosaic tile pointings/ groutings are well intact.
For somewhat reason, the water just doesn't look crystal clear. Looks slightly blurry but can see pool floor.
May i know how to improve water clarity and what can i look out for sir?
You need to shock the pool (I recommend using pool shock to increase chlorine above 16 ppm), then use a product called flocculant (or pool floc) so it binds all those small particles and precipates them into the bottom. After adding the pool floc, run the pool in recirculation (NOT FILTER) for about 8 hours and let it rest for another 8 hours. After that, vacuum to WASTE.
for this you need to fill the pool to have more water because it will be gone cuz vacuum to waste
Once again, prevent algae by keeping your phosphates incredibly low (50ppb or less).
A small phosphate treatment regularly deals with the generator, not the symptom.
I run less that 1 ppm chlorine. Because I keep my phosphates so low, there's nothing for it to fight.
I have a pool and my phosphates are at 312 ppm. Please tell me how you keep your phosphates so low and maintain low phosphate numbers!!! Thanks in advance.
@@DFWJon for my pool, 2 caps of NoPhos from Leslies every 10 days does the trick.
how would i clean algae off a cartridge pool filter?
What happens when you shock pool and it's still green. Power was out and pump stopped while on vacation. Pool water was clear, but green algae at the bottom, vacuumed and shocked now chlorine is 5+ and whole pool is still green 2 days later? TIA
We have a 20’ round pool. We got what looks like mustard algae. We double shocked it. A day later it had alge all throughout the bottom of the pool. I use the vacuum to suck it up and for the last 5 days I wake everyday to more sitting there. The pool isn’t cloudy really or slimy. I’ve brushed it and got down in the flaps with the vacuum. I cleaned and replaced the filter. It’s still there. We keep 2 chlorine tablets in it at all times. And still every morning there is algae sitting on the bottom of the pool. I need some help. I don’t know what to do to get it out of there and keep it out.
I followed your directions with an 8k green pool - shocked - next day teal- shocked again and 3rd day no change still teal. Now I don’t know what to do. Any suggestions?
Been having a mild green algae problem and after balancing PH level and all I've shocked the pool killing all algae, used flocculant to bring all algae to but when I tried to vacuum it my pool blaster catfish ultra seems to pick up some algae and shoot out the rest dispersing it in the water. I've tried to increase the filtration of vacuum by adding different materials but I get same results. So I ended up using a water hose attached to the pole to siphon out all algae from bottom of pool which worked well although it's a lengthy and awkward method. I now have water pretty clear until you disturb the bottom and see a little cloudiness. Are there any vacuum designed to pick up all algae? Any other suggestions? Thanks a lot
Hope you got your answer before now. But if not, I was having the same issue and so I watched 1 million videos and read 1 million opinions. Someone told me to go slow like us now so that’s what I started doing and S stop saying the energy being pushed up into the water when I was vacuuming. Some people say the water hose is a better way to do it, but no matter what way you have to go like a snail.
I have two retail stores, and I am constantly talking customers out of using algaecides as their first action to kill algae. Always chlorine first. Not the best sales results policy, but it helps them trust us, so they keep coming back.
Isn't yellow Algae chlorine resistant ?
@@PrettyGoodLookin more resistant yes, immune no. There are many things that are a factor.
Does the shocking method to kill algae work for salt water pools as well?
I don't even know if what is laying randomly at the bottom of my pool is algae? Or is it dirt.. when you take the pool net across the bottom..it just disappears in the water until it's still enough and it settles back down..
Watched your video did what you said shocked the hell out of it! It went from mustard green to milky blue and has been this color for a week. Everything is testing good, pH 7.3 alkalinity is within the ok stabilizer is a little low but not much. What next please HELP!!! have not been able to use the pool yet this year fighting this back and forth three times now. Thanks in advance
I have been in pools for 39 years i would a filter enhancer if you have a sand filter or de filter if you have a cartridge filter i would add a flocking g agent to settle all the fine particulate to the pool bottom and the vaccum to waste and ALWAYS ALWAYS brush your pool at least twice a week i cant stress it enough
use either flock or clarifier. flock makes everything goes down to the bottom, and you'll need to manually vacuum it to waste. clarifier clumps them together so your filter and filter it out easily, but this is a slower process, and will have to backwash your filter more often.
I overdid it on the algeacide, and now my pool is super foamy😢 how can I correct this?
Your intro is actually Swimtro
Can Algicide kill the algae stains in the grout of the pool?
I am dealing with green algae and cant seem toget rid of it. I jave shocked the pool multiple times, has bee. About 12-15ppm for the last 2 weeksbutno improvent. My CYA was about 100 so dropped it to 50 but still no improvememt. Ph was 7.8 dropped it to 7.4. I cant do flocculant and vaccum to waste because the pool is in an inclined area an the water runs to my neighbor. I have been brushing daily. The pool place here told not yo keep shocking...they gaveme a non chlorine shock 2 days ago....still looks terrible. A friend of mine said alguicide but i saw thos video so didn't go that route. Any ideas?
First I like to net, brush, and vacuum the algaey pool, even If I can't see the bottom, and rinse the filter. You don't want all the heavy stuff getting in the way of the chlorine, you wanna shock the loose particles that are clouding the water.
Need some advice. My ph is at 7.5 and chlorine levels are 1.5-2ppm but I keep on getting small green algae spots throughout the pool every 2-3 days. How do I fix this. P.s. outdoor temperature is usually over 30*c everyday for 2-3 months. Any suggestions?
Get your CYA up to about 50ppm. Then double your current clorine level. Be sure your alkalinity level is below 150ppm, preferably 120-125ppm, lastly brush your pool.
Copper algaecide isn't bad it just has to be maintained at a certain level or it causes issues. (That level is around .2 ppm) Maintaining that copper level and weekly Polyquat will keep algae at bay and you won't have an issue. But yeah, dumping in a copper based algaecide every couple weeks is going to end badly.
So as the video said: just shock the pool instead of using algaecide.
Most city water already has diluted metals that add up like calcium hardness on every pool water top off. Why add more metals in the pool if you can avoid it.
I have a green pool about 25000 gallon How much shock should I add to it? Should I add Stabilized shock or Unstablized shock
Probably 2 bags I'm not sure
read the label on the shock. usually tells you how much gallon it will treat. 1st shock, use 3x the amount of what the label said. Usually 1 bag is good for 10000 gallons, so your normal shock would be about 3 bags, 1st shock would be 9 bags. unstablized shock works best, since it doesn't have any inhibiter for chlorine to work with. But that means need to shock when sun is down so. run pump 24hours for next few days.
Except shock wont kill a yellow algea problem unless its growing on the ground, then the cal-hypo granules will burn it off because of direct contact. The algea on the walls will flourish.
Yellow algea doesn't care about chlorine. You can dump 30 gallons of chlorine in the pool, 8 bags of shock, program the pump to run 24/7 and that yellow algea will not only be completely unscathed but it will continue to paint your entire pool yellow until it gets so thick then it looks green. And even if you kill it completely it will always come back because it is litterly in our water supply
Hi there! So my experience with chlorine and mustard algae has been different. We tried algaecide, chlorine pucks (and we have a salt water pool), backs of shock, and nothing worked. We started following the SLAM method and overnight, our pool was clear. To keep it that way will take a couple more days (until we finish SLAM and can get back to normal FC levels), but it’s working when nothing else did. We’re just using liquid chlorine from Walmart. If your stabilizer (CYA) level is good, it should work. Just wanted to share because this was a game changer for us!
I have a 15x48 ft intext easy set pool. I have greenish algae water and shocked with hth super shock and nothing looked like it happened. I have the original pump that came with pool which is horrible but I dont know how to fix my pool. Please help
too little shock. 1st shock needs about 3x the amount needed. For instance, my pool needed 3 lbs of shock. I had to use 9 lbs of it on first shock, then 6lbs on second shock and 3rd shock, 4th shock at 3 lbs. and all seems normal now. Make sure pump is running to circulate water.
My family owns a pool store and we have run across something called pink algae. That is harder to remove than mustard and green but not as hard to remove as black.
Pink algae… Sounds like a baquisil pool. No?
This is just my thoughts after 30 years of having a pool. I advise you of a few things. #1 is to buy a high quality pool test kit such as the Taylor K-2006. You will find a pool chemistry bible inside that is priceless as well.
#2 Test your water a minimum of 4 days a week.
#3 Balance your water before using any form of Chlorine (unstabilized liquid is best) and btw 1-3 ppm of Cl is way too low a level for pools and you must understand the effect chlorine stabilizer has on pool sanitation as well. Google it if you dont believe me.
#4 Stay far away from the pool store guidance. You should use an online pool water calculator to determine your chemical needs instead.
30.000 gal pool can I add 3 bottle of bleach each week instead of shock.
Also how can I remove rust on skimmer plates thks.
just get new skimmer plates they are just on there with screws
Depends upon the chlorine level you want to reach. Might be too little to shock, but if you keep the pool in balance you might not need any bleach each week. What level you should aim for when shocking is also affected by your stabilizer (cyanuric acid) levels. Bleach marketed for pool use usually has a considerably higher % of sodium hypochlorite than what you’ll find in the laundry aisle. The % will affect the volume needed. I like poolcalculator.com which is free if you use the website (they charge for the app, but it isn’t necessary). It allows you to specify current levels and levels you want to reach and offers suggestions on how much should be added.
Can you shock a salt water pool
Leslie’s pool reps say once your phosphates get to a 1000 it’s almost a guaranteed that you see frequent algae blooms. The only way to get a handle on things is to kill the algae with non-copper algaecide and then add a phosphate remover to be added weekly which also happens to be the name of the product Weekly. Then continue to regular scheduled maintenance with 3ppm minimum free chlorine. Wondering is this seems plausible.
Phosphate remover first. Then algecide. You gotta cut off its food supply first. Then kill it.
We have green algae so I dumped 128 ounce bottle of algaecide into the pool today. Then I saw this video basically saying I screwed up.. Now what do I do ???
We just bought a house with a pool so this is all new to me! They pool company told me to add weekly: Stain Ban, Algaecide, and Instant Conditioner. Is this combo correct or are you saying I should skip the algaecide? We have a salt cell generator as the sanitizer. Thanks for the help!!! I am worried about the copper content because we've noticed our kids' swimsuits turning green!!
They just want to sell you crap you don't need because it's very profitable for them. All you really need is a source of chlorine, a pH modifier (whether that be an acid or base depends on your source of chlorine), an alkalinity buffer, and a calcium buffer. all that stuff they are pushing on you is useless. And anything with copper in it can stain your plaster, to boot.
No need. Save your money. Keep your alkalinity levels in check (slightly over 100 ppm), ph in the 7.4-7.6 range, and chlorine levels. If you’re using chlorine pucks those have stabilizer already in them. If you have a salt water chlorine generator then you have to add stabilizer occasionally. If you don’t, then the sun’s UV will destroy your free chlorine very quickly. It’s a good idea to know how much stabilizer is in the water since that affects what desirable chlorine levels are. If it is too high then that will necessitate very high levels of chlorine. So you need to have stabilizer in the pool, but using the instant conditioner weekly to add this doesn’t seem like the best way to do it. You should test for the levels and add stabilizer instead, and if you do that you likely won’t have to worry about it for a while (maybe test stabilizer levels once a month and add some more). Besides that you can increase alkalinity with the big bags of arm & hammer baking soda, increase pH with Borax, and decrease pH or alkalinity with muriatic acid. That’s it, and a lot cheaper than things marketed as “pH up,” “pH down,” etc... I’ve never needed flocculant, and algaecide is a total waste. Never had any phosphate problems, and I have a vinyl pool so calcium hardness isn’t a concern here. If you haven’t tested and identified problems then adding all of these things is likely a waste. I’m also not a big fan of putting chemicals into the water that aren’t necessary for health reasons. Not saying these are dangerous, but why add something to water if you don’t have to. A Taylor pool test kit is accurate and very easy to use. Remember that chemicals are only one part of the equation. Water needs to be circulated and filtered, and the pool needs to be brushed and vacuumed regularly.
Thanks for the reply! I meant to say “clarifier” instead of “instant conditioner” so the 3 weekly chemicals they told me to add were algicide, stain bab, and clarifier. I haven’t been adding the instant conditioner/stabilizer on a regular basis, I will need to check the levels and make sure to add that. Thanks for the tip! It’s all a bit overwhelming at first!!
Lauren Walker it is overwhelming. Consider using poolcalculator.com. You can put in your pool info, current levels, types of chemicals you plan to use, and the calculator will tell you how much to add. They charge for the app, but if you use the website it is free. Also google the BBB method or look for TH-cam videos on it if you want to get an idea of how to keep the pool in balance . Good luck!
Polyquat algaecide is the only thing to use. Use as a preventative, not a treatment. Use once a year. If the ingredient starts with ‘poly’ it’s the right stuff. Never use copper based.
I’ve shocked my pool 4 times and it clears up somewhat but it goes back to green in a couple of days . I keep the chlorine levels higher than normal to keep it from coming back and the ph is always a on a good level but algae comes back . It’s not super hot and the pool is under a shade so the sun is not the problem . What am I doing wrong ? My kids haven’t been able to use the pool in weeks it’s Star to get super frustrating?
I'll bet your cyanuric acid is too high. Have you checked it?
The alkaline levels also need to be "good"
@@chuckschillingvideos my cyanuric levels are too high I'm having same problem. Should I keep shocking?
@@Hx3ney It may help in the very short term to shock your pool, but the bottom line is you need to dilute the cyanuric acid in your pool. There are treatments sold at pool stores that claim to do this, however, in my opinion the best way to do this is to partially drain your pool and refill with new water. How much you need to pump out depends on the size of the pool and the CA levels of your water.
@@chuckschillingvideos I drained my pool somewhat and filled it. Tested it and it was just about within acceptable levels so I shocked and put algaecide. Very green and wondering now if it's green from copper or do I keep dumping shock. . Ugh think I'll just take a water sample to the pool place and hope the 16yr old isn't working that day 😫
1 think i am wondering is.
why not use algae eating fish instead of chlorine?
cause then you'll have fish waste to worry about and nothing to disinfect it.
I heard that putting chlorine/shocking is better at night. Is that true? Why?
goaley45 because in the morning the sun’s ray breaks down the chlorine so it doesn’t work as well as night where there is no sun. Yw
Exactly. I've read that the 🌞 sun's rays can deteriorate chlorine by 1PPM per hour, so shocking at night is preferred. Conversely, it's best to use algaecide - if you use it as a preventative measure - during the day as algae opens up, like a flower , during the day.
The suns uv rays will strip chlorine out of your pool. Better to shock ur pool at dusk
How do unlock my pool? I feel it’s locked up
Bro I need a video that shows how to safely remove rust stains from the bottom of my pool? Any tips? I just bought a house with a pool and the previous owner seemed to have dropped a screw or bolt. Thanks
You should look into getting a metal stain remover and a brush.
@@SwimUniversity how do I put a metal remover chemical if the pool is full of water???
Gustavo Cisneros Try brushing first.
Gustavo Cisneros May have to drain the pool
We also learned that it is possible to over shock a pool and basically freeze it where nothing works.
Unfortunately shocking may not remove black algae, using an algicide with silver as a main ingredient may be the remedy for a black algae break out.
Doesn’t the FROG LEAP system use copper?
Ive spent thousands on algae issues
Oxidizing removes electrons by reduction. It doesn’t remove oxygen.
What if you have allot of manganese in your water
Ignore it. How would you know how much manganese you have in your water anyway?
The damn water top off puts phosphate in my pool through tap water. I’m trying pool rx along with treating phosphate will chemicals.
My phosphates have been cut in half. Just hope copper doesn’t get out of hand
If you focus on keeping your chlorine at the right level, you won't need a phosphate remover either.
Swim University my pentair chlorinator stoped working in the elbow check valve and I was having a problem keeping chlorine in the pool. The chlorine tablets were not disintegrating and I was shocking the pool weekly. Chlorax tablets have a lot of binder in it and eventually I’ll have to replace the offline tubing.
@@SwimUniversity I was told for nearly for over 10 years that phosphate remover was unnecessary if you did all the above checklist. Finally, one year had trouble, even with water perfectly balanced. Finally, ignoring self made experts and pool guys, i resorted to testing the phosphate and it was sky high. Removed it and was able to maintain the pool with ease. Very high phosphate will make it difficult to maintain water. A little phosphate is nothing to worry about, but a build up over the years can happen especially if one doesn't drain annually ( i live in the desert).
@@Zeppelinlv2007 Disagree. The phosphate level in my tap water is over 5000 ppm. Have never had an issue with algae. I suspect what you're REALLY having an issue with is high stabilizer levels.
Would copper sulfate rust the pool? I saw a video a guy swears by it keeping his pool clean. He puts a little in a sack and puts it in his chlorine floater..
No. But it's just pointless. You don't need it. Just superchlorinate your pool. Problem solved.