Avec grand plaisir Muriel. Laissez moi savoir si vous avez des questions, je peux etre aussi contacte' directement sur facebook. Au debut, experimentez avec des petites melanges et des petits morceaux de papier. J'aime mieux que les cyanotypes et les bichromates. Bon courage.
The PH is crucial, a value between 3 and 4 would also work great. You have to the choice to use pre-mixed hide glue, as you can mix it yourself the way carpenters or piano makers do. Simple unflavored gelatin works well too. I published videos how to do it. Good luck and let me know if you have questions.
Hello, will the white glue used to glue wood work? Also, what is the percentage of acid added, in relation to the solution used? Can sodium carbonate succeed as an alternative to hydrogen peroxide? How much is the required percentage? I hope for a response. Thank you very much 😊
Thank you for providing so much valuable information on the "Chiba"-Process. I am very grateful for the time that you have invested into providing these lovely videos. I started with this process a long time ago when I came across "The Chiba System 千葉方式 - A Non Toxic Alternative to the Dichromate Processes" in 2009. - A year later I dropped the process. It seems to be time to take it up again. Kind regards Henrieke
It's pleasure. Lately I experienced with prepared hide glue from powder and also oxalate instead of citrate and it worked great. Hopefully I'll publish my findings soon, sizing and PH are critical in the CHIBA process. Good luck and let me know if you have questions.
@@saidanehabib Thank you so much! Did I understand this right? You completely skipped the ammonium citrate? Or did you "smuggle" it into the glue? ;-) What do you mean by "prepared glue"? I have an old book, actually 3 books, written by Dr. Erwin Mutter. But I could not find much on "Leimdruck".
@@henrieke.strecker Sorry for not being clear, you can use Ferric ammonium Citrate or Ferric ammonium Oxalate in the CHIBA process, both are available in the USA. For the glue you soak the powder/grains in water and then heat the mix in a bain marie. You dilute the glue and then add the citrate or the oxalate, your favorite color, and a bit of oxalic or citric acid to have the correct PH. There are videos in how to prepare the glue. I'll post videos in the future.
@@saidanehabib Dear Habib, No reason for any sorry. I am grateful for what you share with us. Thank you for your kindness and generosity. Much appreciated. Got some nice results. After almost 15 years I got back to "Chiba". Now! Results! Finally! In 2009 I did not have good results. Thus I moved on with other historical photographic processes. (Maybe it's time to create a website with the results?) I used gelatin and ferric ammonium citrate because I still had some. It worked well on different papers. Because of lack of oxalic acid for the PH I used white vinegar. I adjusted the amount with an eye dropper and checked the PH. Needed quite some test strips but I love to experiment! I use a very soft goat brush to remove the non-exposed gelatine off the paper. Soft brush strokes work perfectly. Best wishes, Henrieke
Yes, you can use the same colors as in bichormates. Ink, pigments, watercolor tubes... For the emulsion to work well, the final mix has to have a PH at around 5. The next video will have a tricolor print.
A good question, I only used green citrate but I believe that any other citrate that produces cyanotypes should produces results in the CHIBA process. The brown citrate seems to be less sensitive but it would be nice to give it try and share your results if you don't mind. I use the sun or black fluorescent lights as a source of UV light. Halogen lights can be used but the exposure time can be over one hour from what I understand. I would expose in the sun instead. If you you have produced cyanotypes with brown citrate and the halogen light start with that same exposure time for the SHIBA experiments. Good luck.
@@saidanehabib I have been making photograms in a very crude non lab like setup for a while now and order my papers and chemicals from B&H, but the Import duties in India have become crazy, so have been looking for alternatives. I haven't tried cyanotypes. While they are stunning to look at I am not sure about opting for a monochromatic blue pallette. Couldn't bring myself to the idea of working with potassium dichromate and was quite thrilled when I landed upon your videos. The results are quite stunning and I also love the option of being able to sensitize the paper directly without the glop. I Have been wrestling with this out over the past two days and am unable to figure out whether it is the chemicals, the exposure or something I am doing wrong. It is unfortunately the monsoons, otherwise with the Indian sun would make it easy to rule out exposure as a problem. I will keep you posted once I get somewhere with this.Thank you for posting so many lovely videos and replying.
@@abrahamgeorge700 I get my ingredients from artcraftchemicals site, they are much cheaper. It should be possible to find someone that can bring you what you need from the US when they go back to visit. Also there are some videos on yotube that shows how to build a cheap UV box. Good luck with everything and let me know if you have any questions.
@@saidanehabib I do get relatives to carry papers sometimes, but people are usually a little more apprehensive about carrying chemicals and I am not clear about airline policy regarding. Thanks for taking the time to answer all my question and the info. Its been useful.
@@abrahamgeorge700 You are very welcome, your friends can always check with the airline if they can transport non hazardous photographic material in their luggage.
Merci pour cette vidéo, vos explications vont m'aider a realiser ce procédé très intéressant 😊
Avec grand plaisir Muriel. Laissez moi savoir si vous avez des questions, je peux etre aussi contacte' directement sur facebook. Au debut, experimentez avec des petites melanges et des petits morceaux de papier. J'aime mieux que les cyanotypes et les bichromates. Bon courage.
Wow! Have to try this!
The PH is crucial, a value between 3 and 4 would also work great. You have to the choice to use pre-mixed hide glue, as you can mix it yourself the way carpenters or piano makers do. Simple unflavored gelatin works well too. I published videos how to do it. Good luck and let me know if you have questions.
I'm very much inspired by the processes. Thank You so much for sharing them.
You are very welcome and there is more on the way. It's lots of fun let me know if you need help.
Hello, will the white glue used to glue wood work? Also, what is the percentage of acid added, in relation to the solution used? Can sodium carbonate succeed as an alternative to hydrogen peroxide? How much is the required percentage? I hope for a response. Thank you very much 😊
Thank you for providing so much valuable information on the "Chiba"-Process. I am very grateful for the time that you have invested into providing these lovely videos. I started with this process a long time ago when I came across "The Chiba System 千葉方式 - A Non Toxic Alternative to the Dichromate Processes" in 2009. - A year later I dropped the process.
It seems to be time to take it up again.
Kind regards
Henrieke
It's pleasure. Lately I experienced with prepared hide glue from powder and also oxalate instead of citrate and it worked great. Hopefully I'll publish my findings soon, sizing and PH are critical in the CHIBA process. Good luck and let me know if you have questions.
@@saidanehabib Thank you so much! Did I understand this right? You completely skipped the ammonium citrate? Or did you "smuggle" it into the glue? ;-) What do you mean by "prepared glue"? I have an old book, actually 3 books, written by Dr. Erwin Mutter. But I could not find much on "Leimdruck".
@@henrieke.strecker Sorry for not being clear, you can use Ferric ammonium Citrate or Ferric ammonium Oxalate in the CHIBA process, both are available in the USA. For the glue you soak the powder/grains in water and then heat the mix in a bain marie. You dilute the glue and then add the citrate or the oxalate, your favorite color, and a bit of oxalic or citric acid to have the correct PH. There are videos in how to prepare the glue. I'll post videos in the future.
@@saidanehabib Dear Habib,
No reason for any sorry. I am grateful for what you share with us. Thank you for your kindness and generosity. Much appreciated. Got some nice results.
After almost 15 years I got back to "Chiba". Now! Results! Finally! In 2009 I did not have good results. Thus I moved on with other historical photographic processes. (Maybe it's time to create a website with the results?)
I used gelatin and ferric ammonium citrate because I still had some. It worked well on different papers. Because of lack of oxalic acid for the PH I used white vinegar. I adjusted the amount with an eye dropper and checked the PH. Needed quite some test strips but I love to experiment!
I use a very soft goat brush to remove the non-exposed gelatine off the paper. Soft brush strokes work perfectly.
Best wishes,
Henrieke
That's great, try to spray the peroxide on the exposed paper and rinse with warm water, it works for me without brushing. Have a great week.
very nice and good results!!! :)
Thank you Fausto.
What colors did /do you use to mix in? Is it the same as with bichromate?
Yes, you can use the same colors as in bichormates. Ink, pigments, watercolor tubes... For the emulsion to work well, the final mix has to have a PH at around 5. The next video will have a tricolor print.
will this work if it's brown ferric ammonium citerate (not green)? and will a halogen light exposure work?
A good question, I only used green citrate but I believe that any other citrate that produces cyanotypes should produces results in the CHIBA process. The brown citrate seems to be less sensitive but it would be nice to give it try and share your results if you don't mind. I use the sun or black fluorescent lights as a source of UV light. Halogen lights can be used but the exposure time can be over one hour from what I understand. I would expose in the sun instead. If you you have produced cyanotypes with brown citrate and the halogen light start with that same exposure time for the SHIBA experiments. Good luck.
@@saidanehabib I have been making photograms in a very crude non lab like setup for a while now and order my papers and chemicals from B&H, but the Import duties in India have become crazy, so have been looking for alternatives. I haven't tried cyanotypes. While they are stunning to look at I am not sure about opting for a monochromatic blue pallette. Couldn't bring myself to the idea of working with potassium dichromate and was quite thrilled when I landed upon your videos. The results are quite stunning and I also love the option of being able to sensitize the paper directly without the glop. I Have been wrestling with this out over the past two days and am unable to figure out whether it is the chemicals, the exposure or something I am doing wrong. It is unfortunately the monsoons, otherwise with the Indian sun would make it easy to rule out exposure as a problem. I will keep you posted once I get somewhere with this.Thank you for posting so many lovely videos and replying.
@@abrahamgeorge700 I get my ingredients from artcraftchemicals site, they are much cheaper. It should be possible to find someone that can bring you what you need from the US when they go back to visit. Also there are some videos on yotube that shows how to build a cheap UV box. Good luck with everything and let me know if you have any questions.
@@saidanehabib I do get relatives to carry papers sometimes, but people are usually a little more apprehensive about carrying chemicals and I am not clear about airline policy regarding. Thanks for taking the time to answer all my question and the info. Its been useful.
@@abrahamgeorge700 You are very welcome, your friends can always check with the airline if they can transport non hazardous photographic material in their luggage.
Great!