This is the most thorough TSS video that I've seen on TH-cam. Most talk about bypassing the TSS as a fix and don't counsel the use of tethers. Well done.
Thanks for the video. My wife and I ride identical Polaris sleds, so I ordered one of those TSS bypass connectors from Munster to carry on the sled in the mountains.
When i installed munster throttle, i was not able to get a TSS bypass plug so i pulled the switch out of the stock throttle block and taped the switch down. Has worked perfectly so far. My sled is a 2020 rmk
Have a 2015 Arctic Cat we just towed out...got home and watched your video! Went out made a couple adjustments, started right up! $25 part and back to the pow!!!
Useful video, thanks. My 2016 and 2020 Cats have both had the TSS activate in a certain kind of wet / granular snow. Sometimes hard to clear and melt the frozen spot around that pin-good to know about the simple disable. Yes, always a tether. Subscribed.
Great video sir! Much appreciated, very informative but still concise, which is rare. Was in search of simply what this part was that came disconnected when I changed my bars out and found that answer and learned a lot more. Very informative. As an electrician I had some resistors on hand so gunna look up the resistance needed and keep a few on hand prob will buy a bypass as well just in case.. I ride with a group of 4-6 that all ride polaris.
Great video. Yes, adjusting the Arctic cat throttle cable can be done with the pipe on but you have to remove the screws for the heat shield so you have some room. The heat shield will not come off but you can move it enough to get at the adjuster. It's kind of a bastard. Be patient and don't drop the heat shield screws down into the belly pan.
You can leave the pipe on, just a little harder. You can remove the the metal ECU heat shield with the pipe on, but its a little harder to get out from under the pipe.
My dealer sold me a 22 matryx with 0 gap/play on the throttle block to throttle. Cable is too tight. I'm Gonna loosen up the cable to specc. Thanks for the thorough explanation
@@mountainsleddergarage8627I'm hearing that with the free play adjusted correctly, wot can be affected on these matryx mountain sleds. That might be why they're running it so tight. I'm gonna try an aftermarket throttle block since this one ices up so badly and see if that fixes.
Great Video ! My son bought an old 1999 Artic Cat ZRT 600 to wrench on and learn since his autoshop classes are virtual (almost useless). Great project since it is was not running and had frozen (corrosion) carburetors. He was injured a year before on a quad that froze open while riding, forcing him to jump off and he broke his arm. Lesson learned he wanted to restore all the safety's on this sled before riding. Since nether of us know sleds this video really helped a lot. I like the point about the tether. Can you add a tether to an older sled ? Thanks for your help.
Excellent video. I’ve got a 2010 Sno Pro, bought used several years ago. It doesn’t have a tether. Not sure if it was removed, or if Cat sold them without back then. Thinking about adding a tether to the bars, but I don’t know if it’s gonna be a hassle…
Solid video, thank you for explaining how the tss works. I will go check my flapper now to see if it’s in spec Can you acces that black bag without having the plastics ?
hi. i have just got a munster finger throttle, the problem is that with their tss bypass plugged i can't get the sled in reverse. do you have any idea why is that?
So it seems to me that these fail to OPEN circuit. That is to say that the safety electrical circuit operates closed circuit so if safety switches get corroded contacts or the carbs aren't adjusted properly then HE (Hall Effect) sensors are out of adjustment then the circuit is open(?) and so the magic safety won't function properly. The safety circuit on my AC (Arctic Cat) is disconnected where the main wire harness branches to the throttle harness in the steering column. Therefore, my the KS (Kill Switch) doesn't work. I can see the jumper for the TSS (Throttle Safety Switch) where it is disconnected in the steering column. The resolution would be one of the following ways; 1) Replace the whole throttle 2) Clean the contacts in the TSS with the switch out by rinsing it out with contact cleaner and testing resistance with Ohm meter. To get to the TSS the throttle needs removed from the handle bar, by first removing the hand grip. Otherwise, to get my kill switch to work again, I need to plug the harness back in and short only those two wires with a different method. My AC has HE sensors on each carb (and they are plugged in) so messing with the idle could cause those to go out of whack. Without a manual, it's difficult to keep up with functionality of everything. Anyway, Good Luck and KEEP SAFE! Mike, Meridian Idaho
Not sure what cat you are working on. The ascender has a throttle cable adjustment on the cable on the front right side of the sled, right where the cable goes under the ECU heat shield.
It could. If you have a cat you can just unplug the wires to the TSS. If you have a Polaris you have to use a bypass plug, you can't just unplug it. Heres a link to the Force Turbos Polaris TSS bypass plug, forceturbos.com/collections/polaris-snowmobile-performance-parts/products/force-turbos-tss-bypass-connector
Question: I have an 2015 indy 600 that got tipped on the throttle and now the check engine light comes on but it idles fine and when it hits 3400 rpm it hits a rev limiter and won’t move any idea what this is?
The rev to 3400 then stumble could be whatever the check engine light is rev limiting your engine or the throttle cable out of adjustment. Your gage can display your fault code. Depending if you have a 3 or 2 button or PIDD display. Look in your owners manual or internet on how to get the code for your gage. Once you have the code number you can google search it and find out what’s wrong. Or take to your dealer and have them find code.
I just got the same problem on 16mod axys sks, engine light on and limiter on 3400rpm. found this: From research "520194 indicates an issue with the Throttle Release Signal and the 3 indicates that it's receiving Voltage Too High" Workshop have way to long waiting time, please tell me if you figure this out🙏🙏
The first comment at the top here I give a referral to a guy who builds a plug to get rid of your TSS for Polaris. That may help you if your TSS is bad.
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 so it’s pretty normal for my 2020 rmk 850 stock throttle to feel like this? The throttle lever feels really sloppy and loose like the guy above described. You can grab the lever and move it up and down.
@@kaipepin159 Polaris factory throttle blocks have a major flaw that is well known, but easily missed: if they get knocked too hard, the plastic slide that goes into the throttle block will come out halfway, so that only part of the slide is in place. You'll have no clue about it, except for the symptoms: the throttle block will be impossible to make tight to the bars, and the throttle lever will stick the more you tighten the screw on the underside of the block. To prevent the throttle from sticking, you'll loosen the screw, but your whole block will slide around on the bars as a result. The fix is to take the throttle block apart and put the plastic slide back in correctly. Remove the four Phillips screws going horizontally into the block, closest to the grab bar; take off the plastic cover. Then, remove the Allen screw on the underside of the block, that you normally use to tighten the block to the bar. Now, the whole throttle block will slide apart, and you'll see clear as day what I've been trying to explain.
This is the most thorough TSS video that I've seen on TH-cam. Most talk about bypassing the TSS as a fix and don't counsel the use of tethers. Well done.
Aftermarket throttle block is definitely the way to go
Thanks for the video. My wife and I ride identical Polaris sleds, so I ordered one of those TSS bypass connectors from Munster to carry on the sled in the mountains.
When i installed munster throttle, i was not able to get a TSS bypass plug so i pulled the switch out of the stock throttle block and taped the switch down. Has worked perfectly so far. My sled is a 2020 rmk
Have a 2015 Arctic Cat we just towed out...got home and watched your video! Went out made a couple adjustments, started right up! $25 part and back to the pow!!!
Glad you got the sled going easily!
Useful video, thanks. My 2016 and 2020 Cats have both had the TSS activate in a certain kind of wet / granular snow. Sometimes hard to clear and melt the frozen spot around that pin-good to know about the simple disable. Yes, always a tether. Subscribed.
thanks
Great video sir! Much appreciated, very informative but still concise, which is rare. Was in search of simply what this part was that came disconnected when I changed my bars out and found that answer and learned a lot more. Very informative. As an electrician I had some resistors on hand so gunna look up the resistance needed and keep a few on hand prob will buy a bypass as well just in case.. I ride with a group of 4-6 that all ride polaris.
I can see if I can Cleve the resistance in one of the plugs I have do it may be easier for you to make your own plug.
Great video. Yes, adjusting the Arctic cat throttle cable can be done with the pipe on but you have to remove the screws for the heat shield so you have some room. The heat shield will not come off but you can move it enough to get at the adjuster. It's kind of a bastard. Be patient and don't drop the heat shield screws down into the belly pan.
You can leave the pipe on, just a little harder. You can remove the the metal ECU heat shield with the pipe on, but its a little harder to get out from under the pipe.
Great information and video.
My dealer sold me a 22 matryx with 0 gap/play on the throttle block to throttle. Cable is too tight. I'm Gonna loosen up the cable to specc.
Thanks for the thorough explanation
Yea, it’s pretty common. The cable can stretch a little as it’s used, so keep an eye on the cable pay throughout the season.
@@mountainsleddergarage8627I'm hearing that with the free play adjusted correctly, wot can be affected on these matryx mountain sleds. That might be why they're running it so tight.
I'm gonna try an aftermarket throttle block since this one ices up so badly and see if that fixes.
Great Video ! My son bought an old 1999 Artic Cat ZRT 600 to wrench on and learn since his autoshop classes are virtual (almost useless). Great project since it is was not running and had frozen (corrosion) carburetors. He was injured a year before on a quad that froze open while riding, forcing him to jump off and he broke his arm. Lesson learned he wanted to restore all the safety's on this sled before riding. Since nether of us know sleds this video really helped a lot. I like the point about the tether. Can you add a tether to an older sled ? Thanks for your help.
Seems like a safety feature that can get you stranded out in the woods . Just one extra thing to go wrong , A tether is all anyone needs !
Excellent video. I’ve got a 2010 Sno Pro, bought used several years ago. It doesn’t have a tether. Not sure if it was removed, or if Cat sold them without back then. Thinking about adding a tether to the bars, but I don’t know if it’s gonna be a hassle…
Cat didn’t start doing factory tether until the alpha in 2019. Cat sells a plug and play tether for older sleds, or you can buy aftermarket
Awesome Information Great Job !!
Thanks Bryce
Thanks Bryce
Solid video, thank you for explaining how the tss works. I will go check my flapper now to see if it’s in spec
Can you acces that black bag without having the plastics ?
Problem in Arctic cat for a few years? I had a throttle safety switch issue on a 1997 with only 100 miles on it.
Carbs come out of syn
Thank you
hi. i have just got a munster finger throttle, the problem is that with their tss bypass plugged i can't get the sled in reverse. do you have any idea why is that?
Thanks for the video.
So it seems to me that these fail to OPEN circuit.
That is to say that the safety electrical circuit operates closed circuit so if safety switches get corroded contacts or the carbs aren't adjusted properly then HE (Hall Effect) sensors are out of adjustment then the circuit is open(?) and so the magic safety won't function properly.
The safety circuit on my AC (Arctic Cat) is disconnected where the main wire harness branches to the throttle harness in the steering column.
Therefore, my the KS (Kill Switch) doesn't work.
I can see the jumper for the TSS (Throttle Safety Switch) where it is disconnected in the steering column.
The resolution would be one of the following ways;
1) Replace the whole throttle
2) Clean the contacts in the TSS with the switch out by rinsing it out with contact cleaner and testing resistance with Ohm meter.
To get to the TSS the throttle needs removed from the handle bar, by first removing the hand grip.
Otherwise, to get my kill switch to work again, I need to plug the harness back in and short only those two wires with a different method.
My AC has HE sensors on each carb (and they are plugged in) so messing with the idle could cause those to go out of whack.
Without a manual, it's difficult to keep up with functionality of everything.
Anyway, Good Luck and KEEP SAFE!
Mike, Meridian Idaho
I have a 1999 Polaris Indy. can it be disconnected only… or will it need the jumper? Its old so im hoping i can just unplug it. Thank you
Would you have to take the pipe off and the little tin shield to change the trottle cable on and arctic cat?
Not sure what cat you are working on. The ascender has a throttle cable adjustment on the cable on the front right side of the sled, right where the cable goes under the ECU heat shield.
I think on the polaris if you disconnect the tss and kill switch it bypasses the system
If you disconnect tss, will your kill switch will still work on that cat ?
Sorry for the late reply, yes it will on the proclimb and ascender
would the TSS failing cause the sled to have no spark ?
It could. If you have a cat you can just unplug the wires to the TSS. If you have a Polaris you have to use a bypass plug, you can't just unplug it. Heres a link to the Force Turbos Polaris TSS bypass plug,
forceturbos.com/collections/polaris-snowmobile-performance-parts/products/force-turbos-tss-bypass-connector
It's that little knob inside the throttle rest area, I gave it gas and it dies ,,I push that button and it takes off!!
So on my 1980 El Tigre 6000 I can just unplug it to bypass it or do I have to add a jumper wire?
Not 100% sure that old of a sled, but I’d guess yes. Just make sure your shed runs. Then unplug and see if it runs or not. That’s where I’d start
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 right at the moment I`m trying to diagnose a "no Spark"...
Its the throttle safety switch
That guy got of easy. I know of a guy that got his leg shreaded to the bone by a 3inch paddles at 6300rpm.
What tether are you running on that arctic cat? Cannot find a good one to run on my 2016. Sure don't like those silicone styles.
You can use the new magnetic cat tether. Watch the video
m.th-cam.com/video/wt1ik7JSw7U/w-d-xo.html
What tether are you running on that arctic cat?? Cannot find a good one to run on my 2016. I do not like the silicone styles.
I like the cat magnetic tether
If anyone wants a polaris axys TSS plug, contact Chris through the email below. He makes them and sells shipped for $25.
chrisperkins.idaho@gmail.com
Why didn’t he have his break away on
Question: I have an 2015 indy 600 that got tipped on the throttle and now the check engine light comes on but it idles fine and when it hits 3400 rpm it hits a rev limiter and won’t move any idea what this is?
The rev to 3400 then stumble could be whatever the check engine light is rev limiting your engine or the throttle cable out of adjustment.
Your gage can display your fault code. Depending if you have a 3 or 2 button or PIDD display. Look in your owners manual or internet on how to get the code for your gage. Once you have the code number you can google search it and find out what’s wrong. Or take to your dealer and have them find code.
I just got the same problem on 16mod axys sks, engine light on and limiter on 3400rpm. found this:
From research
"520194 indicates an issue with the Throttle Release Signal and the 3 indicates that it's receiving Voltage Too High"
Workshop have way to long waiting time, please tell me if you figure this out🙏🙏
The first comment at the top here I give a referral to a guy who builds a plug to get rid of your TSS for Polaris. That may help you if your TSS is bad.
@@fredrikslettvoll1786 I found some wires that were broken that went to the throttle safety switch I think that’s the problem with mine
@@joeydesousafishing1203 got a TSS bypass connector and now it seems fine👍
I hate those throttles!
I know it's a safety thing but these throttles feel sloppy and loose!!
Yea, the factory Polaris throw block is not the best. Going to be doing a video coming up of the TKI replacement
@@mountainsleddergarage8627 so it’s pretty normal for my 2020 rmk 850 stock throttle to feel like this? The throttle lever feels really sloppy and loose like the guy above described. You can grab the lever and move it up and down.
@@kaipepin159 Polaris factory throttle blocks have a major flaw that is well known, but easily missed: if they get knocked too hard, the plastic slide that goes into the throttle block will come out halfway, so that only part of the slide is in place. You'll have no clue about it, except for the symptoms: the throttle block will be impossible to make tight to the bars, and the throttle lever will stick the more you tighten the screw on the underside of the block. To prevent the throttle from sticking, you'll loosen the screw, but your whole block will slide around on the bars as a result.
The fix is to take the throttle block apart and put the plastic slide back in correctly. Remove the four Phillips screws going horizontally into the block, closest to the grab bar; take off the plastic cover. Then, remove the Allen screw on the underside of the block, that you normally use to tighten the block to the bar. Now, the whole throttle block will slide apart, and you'll see clear as day what I've been trying to explain.
Anyone know why Ski-Doo has never had one of these?
Probably because skidoo has had a very good working tether for many years.