if you apply it on top of a piece of silk screen cloth you get a perfect result no matter how good you are and it looks like it was put on by a machine and you dont get the problem of the solder mask sticking to the plastic film
The only trick in those UV curable masks is the thickness of the film. I've got very thin films. I do pass them through a laminator (cold) and thin film sticks to the plate after the application. I cut the film larger than the board and make a sandwich so that the excess dye is deposited in that sandwich. I apply using a flat brush. Your films are very thick and whenever I try those thick ones, it did not fuse.
1)Clean up witch acetone or toluene before using soldermask. 2)NEVER 2# layer after fail 1#. Remove first witch sandpaper, clean using toluene, apply new layer. 3)MORE POWERFULL UV light. (Naill UV lamp) 4)Thin layer only
I think the problem was not the exposure time but the thickness of the UV solder mask. I applied to much of it and basically it peeled off. I saw that some people apply very thin coat as a base coat and after some cure time they apply bit thicker as a final coat and let it cure at direct sun light or even high power UV light. What I got was small UV torch that came with UV solder mask. After doing more testing for beginners it's better to apply one thick coat and do not over expose or the paste just gonna solidify under the transparent film and you gonna do some scraping if this happens. Hope that helps :)
I think your solder mask is WAY too thick. It peel off when it gets too thick. That's why many commercial boards look way too thin -- thinner is better than thicker, if you can't make it perfect.
if you apply it on top of a piece of silk screen cloth you get a perfect result no matter how good you are and it looks like it was put on by a machine and you dont get the problem of the solder mask sticking to the plastic film
after the screen. and you take the screen off. do you put put plastic on that to make a smooth surface
The only trick in those UV curable masks is the thickness of the film. I've got very thin films. I do pass them through a laminator (cold) and thin film sticks to the plate after the application. I cut the film larger than the board and make a sandwich so that the excess dye is deposited in that sandwich. I apply using a flat brush. Your films are very thick and whenever I try those thick ones, it did not fuse.
1)Clean up witch acetone or toluene before using soldermask.
2)NEVER 2# layer after fail 1#. Remove first witch sandpaper, clean using toluene, apply new layer.
3)MORE POWERFULL UV light. (Naill UV lamp)
4)Thin layer only
Maybe longer exposure times would have helped the first couple of boards?
I think the problem was not the exposure time but the thickness of the UV solder mask. I applied to much of it and basically it peeled off. I saw that some people apply very thin coat as a base coat and after some cure time they apply bit thicker as a final coat and let it cure at direct sun light or even high power UV light. What I got was small UV torch that came with UV solder mask. After doing more testing for beginners it's better to apply one thick coat and do not over expose or the paste just gonna solidify under the transparent film and you gonna do some scraping if this happens. Hope that helps :)
I think your solder mask is WAY too thick. It peel off when it gets too thick. That's why many commercial boards look way too thin -- thinner is better than thicker, if you can't make it perfect.
A question that is what you used to expand it, I know that it is a piece of metal but what is it?
Nice
Hi friend 😍 😍 nice tutorial 👍😍
Thank you my friend! :)
Amazing bro by the way i subscribed your channel now it's your turn
UV time ++