Would like to suggest a metallic grey as a sealer on the next "yellow" or "red" plastic car you build. It should stop the bleeding out of the colored styrene. Then proceed with your primer and color coats and clear.
I have the same clear coat. I do the Tamiya motorcycles. I put about 7 small coats, and one heavier coat. it worked flawlessly. I use to paint F/A-18 aircraft in the Navy so I love to paint. To keep the paint from showing through use 3 coats of light gray primer, wet sanding each coat. After that apply 4 coats of the white primer. The gray will keep the yellow from coming through. the white base coat will be a little darker, but it will work.
I think it is great that you show models not turning out as you would like, I am sure many professionals would not show problem builds. All your models appear to be to a very high standard. I have an airbrush that I use on wheels and interiors, but I cannot source the paints that you describe here in the UK, I just use Tamiya. For the body shells I use automotive acrylic spray tin paints, the clear coats come up nice after a polish. I thought about using automotive touch up pen set paint in the airbrush, the metallic basecoat could possibly be thinned with Tamiya thinner but it is alcohol based and may not be soluble? The touch up sets come with acrylic clear but I would prefer 2K clear like you are using for an instant gloss finish. Great videos, I may just experiment with the touch up pen sets and the airbrush to see what happens.
Really?? I tried a few model and hobby stores here and nobody stocked this stuff possibly because 2K is more toxic. Just had a look on-line they do have a good website. Was not aware they were from the UK. Cheers.
Nice project again. I've had the same migration colour on the white top roof of a green molded Mini, who becomes green after clear coat. I will try to prime, clear coat, prime again and paint white, just to see.....
The Scalemodeling Channel I love your video's! I have the kit 07057, the Audi R8. But i don't love the standard grey colour. I am 12 years old so... i didn't know much about Revell. Can you say me the steps how to give it another colour? I make it colour 001. Thanks!
Thank you for your videos, I love watching them! I wanted to thank you for showing the stages you do when you apply your decals, and was wondering what/ where you put your model when you are letting the paint dry/cure. I seem to always get some dust/ residue on mine, even if i clean my room before hand. I was wondering how you get yours flawless every time.
Hi! seems that this model is very nice, have you noticed sink marks on it? I saw that Gravity colors have the yellow just right for that kit (AMG Solarbeam Yellow Gravity Colors Paint - GC-275), maybe that would be the way to avoid the color contamination... great job so far, cheers!
I use a seperate brush for SET and SOL. If it would be the same color all over the body it would have been fine, sadly it had blotches all over the place. so next week youll be in for a big surprise.
Je kan al de niet wit gegoten modellen isoleren met Zinser BIN synthetische isoleer verf als je je model in het wit wilt spuiten, bestaat in pot als spuitbus, zelf heb ik dit nog niet geprobeerd omdat die in Belgie niet leverbaar is, wel in Nederland dacht ik. Wel al veel aangeprezen gezien in diverse youtube builder filmpjes, misschien wel het proberen waard. Je model nog eens wit spuiten en vernissen helpt niet, de plastic kleur blijft doorbloeden. Het product wordt verdeeld door Rust Oleum.
I havent read the translation for this post yet, but I was just about to suggest the same product. www.zinsseruk.com/product/b-i-n/ BIN sealer before primer should help with this. I just ordered one of these kits, good to know what to watch out for. Hope you can save this one, as it looks like a really nice kit, one of the nicest I've seen from Revell in a really long time. Looking forward to more Tom. David
Hi! I would like to ask you a question.You say in a lot of your videos that you do 1 coat then wait till 10-5 mins before next coat.While you wait for the first coat to dry do you leave the paint in your airbrush?Or while you wait you clean your AB and do the second coat with fresh paint?I know you are using lacquer paints so i guess they dry or clog the AB slower.But do you think i should do the same(so wait 5-10 mins between coats) as you but in the meantime i am using acrylic paints only.
Be sure that the surface beneath is super smooth before you apply clear. And it is normal to have some orange peel on the first coat. you can fix it in the second.
On colored plastic, I first paint with a metallic silver to seal in the color. TS-30 by Tamiya, for example.
Outstanding work on the carbon fiber roof!!!
I'm sorry to see you had the bleed through problem on this one, I've had it happen to me before and it's a bummer when it happens!
Would like to suggest a metallic grey as a sealer on the next "yellow" or "red" plastic car you build. It should stop the bleeding out of the colored styrene. Then proceed with your primer and color coats and clear.
Echt balen van de verkleuring.Succes met het herstellen er van.
I have the same clear coat. I do the Tamiya motorcycles. I put about 7 small coats, and one heavier coat. it worked flawlessly. I use to paint F/A-18 aircraft in the Navy so I love to paint. To keep the paint from showing through use 3 coats of light gray primer, wet sanding each coat. After that apply 4 coats of the white primer. The gray will keep the yellow from coming through. the white base coat will be a little darker, but it will work.
I think it is great that you show models not turning out as you would like, I am sure many professionals would not show problem builds. All your models appear to be to a very high standard. I have an airbrush that I use on wheels and interiors, but I cannot source the paints that you describe here in the UK, I just use Tamiya. For the body shells I use automotive acrylic spray tin paints, the clear coats come up nice after a polish. I thought about using automotive touch up pen set paint in the airbrush, the metallic basecoat could possibly be thinned with Tamiya thinner but it is alcohol based and may not be soluble? The touch up sets come with acrylic clear but I would prefer 2K clear like you are using for an instant gloss finish. Great videos, I may just experiment with the touch up pen sets and the airbrush to see what happens.
you can't find zero paints in the UK? they are from the UK :P www.hiroboy.com
Really?? I tried a few model and hobby stores here and nobody stocked this stuff possibly because 2K is more toxic. Just had a look on-line they do have a good website. Was not aware they were from the UK. Cheers.
Hello,
In case of yellow or red plastic is good to use silver as first paint and than white or other color. Silver will eliminate body color.
Nice project again.
I've had the same migration colour on the white top roof of a green molded Mini, who becomes green after clear coat.
I will try to prime, clear coat, prime again and paint white, just to see.....
Let me know if it works!
OK
The Scalemodeling Channel I love your video's! I have the kit 07057, the Audi R8. But i don't love the standard grey colour. I am 12 years old so... i didn't know much about Revell. Can you say me the steps how to give it another colour? I make it colour 001. Thanks!
Spray some primer, spray a color you like and spray some clearcoat. maybe get a parent to help ;)
Thank you for your videos, I love watching them! I wanted to thank you for showing the stages you do when you apply your decals, and was wondering what/ where you put your model when you are letting the paint dry/cure. I seem to always get some dust/ residue on mine, even if i clean my room before hand. I was wondering how you get yours flawless every time.
Looking good there.
Hi! seems that this model is very nice, have you noticed sink marks on it? I saw that Gravity colors have the yellow just right for that kit (AMG Solarbeam Yellow Gravity Colors Paint - GC-275), maybe that would be the way to avoid the color contamination... great job so far, cheers!
I have not seen any sink marks on this one
do the hood in carbon fibre too, might look cool, better than what it is now
I wonder if grey primer covered with white primer would work.
Looks great man!
Shame that the yellow shows through, i would personally have chosen matt yellow for this car though
Does it ruin the build if you use spray paint for these models?
awesome video! like the way you made the scale model cars. Did you use GoPro (or similar) to film the video?
Henry Ye i use a gopro
The Scalemodeling Channel were do you buy your models
Pretty much anywhere i can find them for a good price. ebay is a grreat resorce
I noticed when you were applying decals, you got the speedometer on your thumb.
Alex Oliver lol, thats not possible. I have not touched that decal yet
can you build something japanese a fujimi integra or civic please?
I've had some trouble with glueing clear parts such as Windows, what glue do you recommend for clear part which does not fog up?
revell contacta clear :)
if you primer body and spray in white colour puting clear on the top of thes you will don't get problem like you got?
That is what i did, it sometimes hapens
You think you'll ever do a slammed patina c10? Love the vids. thanks
Time for a wild custom paint on this one...1st flamed AMG GT?
uuuhhhhhhh..... No
The Scalemodeling Channel what sprays do you use before the real color?
Do u use one brush for both set n' sol, or separate brushes? Btw, the color looks like vanilla ice cream though, yummy! XD
I use a seperate brush for SET and SOL. If it would be the same color all over the body it would have been fine, sadly it had blotches all over the place. so next week youll be in for a big surprise.
Je kan al de niet wit gegoten modellen isoleren met Zinser BIN synthetische isoleer verf als je je model in het wit wilt spuiten, bestaat in pot als spuitbus, zelf heb ik dit nog niet geprobeerd omdat die in Belgie niet leverbaar is, wel in Nederland dacht ik. Wel al veel aangeprezen gezien in diverse youtube builder filmpjes, misschien wel het proberen waard. Je model nog eens wit spuiten en vernissen helpt niet, de plastic kleur blijft doorbloeden.
Het product wordt verdeeld door Rust Oleum.
I havent read the translation for this post yet, but I was just about to suggest the same product. www.zinsseruk.com/product/b-i-n/ BIN sealer before primer should help with this. I just ordered one of these kits, good to know what to watch out for. Hope you can save this one, as it looks like a really nice kit, one of the nicest I've seen from Revell in a really long time. Looking forward to more Tom.
David
Hi!
I would like to ask you a question.You say in a lot of your videos that you do 1 coat then wait till 10-5 mins before next coat.While you wait for the first coat to dry do you leave the paint in your airbrush?Or while you wait you clean your AB and do the second coat with fresh paint?I know you are using lacquer paints so i guess they dry or clog the AB slower.But do you think i should do the same(so wait 5-10 mins between coats) as you but in the meantime i am using acrylic paints only.
I just leave the paint in the airbrush. My airbrush does not clog up. When there ie enough paint in there it won't dry that quick.
I also let the paint in the airbrush, i simply put a cap on it to avoid drying.
Have you built and would you consider building bikes to ?
I have built one back in the day, i am considering building more when i get some more time on my hands
Cant wait
when i finish first coat
(i finish just one coat)
with urathane i often have orange peel what's wrong?
and how can l remove the orange peel?
Be sure that the surface beneath is super smooth before you apply clear.
And it is normal to have some orange peel on the first coat. you can fix it in the second.
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you
i'll try to apply your advice next model
PATIENT'S THAT YOU DO HAVE BROTHER LOLOL 👍🏻🤔👍🏻 REALLY LIKE THE JOB YOU DID ON THAT ROOF CAME OUT LOOKING REAL GOOD 💯 🏆 ⭐️ 👊🏻 😎 🇺🇸 ✌🏻️