Super informative. I feel like nauticam are one of the few companies still trying to innovate, appreciate the effort. Definitely expensive, but what can you do :D
Now that Nauticam has released the new FCP-1 lens, I was able to score a used WACP-1 for a lot less than retail price. Heavy, but the high-quality images are worth it!
I have a small smudge scratch on my WWL-1 front element. shows up if there is sunlight shining into it. What are my options. Nauticam did not respond when i emailed them.
This is the greatest video for the information on Nauticam lens. However one is still missing, N50 3.5 inch dome, may be because it’s not a wet lens, it’s a port with dome or may I say “dry lens” dome. Anyway I’m struggling on finding information of it. Could you please give me a little information? Is it works with Nauticam RX100 VII housing? How it perform compared to WWL-C?
Thanks! You are correct that the N50 3.5 inch dome is not a lens itself, it is just a port for compact camera housings with an N50 port size . The purpose of this port is to correct for the refraction that would otherwise occur behind the standard flat port, restoring the camera to its 24mm width underwater. This will limit the versatility of the camera because it cannot be fully zoomed through. In addition, it will not do anything to enhance the optical sharpness like a wet lens would. In almost every case, you would be better served when shooting wide angle to go with the N50 short flat port and a wide angle conversion lens such as the WWL-C. It will support more zoom range, a wider field of view, and much better image quality overall. Please feel free to send us an email at info@backscatter.com and we can get into more detail with you. Thanks!
Robin, thanks for putting this together. This is like an encyclopedia that I keep going back to, to decide what lenses to choose. Does the MWL-1 cause barrel distortion while taking videos? Are there any video samples using the MWL-1 that I can take a look?
Glad you have found it helpful! The MWL-1 won't cause significant barrel distortion, but we've found it's difficult to dial-in super sharp corners under certain settings. Nauticam has some sample images here, and please feel free to call or email us for more info: www.nauticam.com/products/macro-to-wide-angle-lens-1-mwl-1-150-deg-fov-with-full-frame-60mm-macro-lens
Thank you for this very useful video! But however there is one question left.. I've got a Sony RX100-Va (24-70mm lens) and currently I am looking for a suitable housing. In this race, there are 2 canidates left (Nauticam and Isotta) but as I was quite satisfied with my NA-GH2 housing, the Nauticam Housing (RX100V ProPackage) is a nose ahead :-) (however I like the idea to have the maunfacturer here in Europe) Furthermore, a WWL-C is on the top of my wishlist and I have the Idea, that Nauticam engineered this lens basically for their own housings, right? :) But back to the CMC-1 / CMC-2.... I often read, that the CMC-2 (about +10 dioptries) is much more easier to handle than the stronger CMC-1 (about+15 dioptries) and I also read that there is a "fixed" closest focus distance! Fixed? What does "fixed" mean in this case? According to distance = 1/dioptries with the CMC-2 I would have 10cm (about 3 inch) closest distance while with the CMC-1 only 6cm (about 2 inch). BUT: are these distances "fixed" /written in stone? Question: If, a subject is too big for the CMC-1, will I be able to focus it as well on 10cm (3 inches) or more distance or am I fixed on these 6cm (2 inches) which would only allow a few mm of sharpness range. (not to forget the "escaping" distance of some subjects!) So again... Does the CMC-1 allow me to get a bit more far away (if yes how far?) than 6cm (2 inches)? Thanks a lot and greetings from Germany :)
Good question. In this case "fixed" means that there is a set maximum and minimum focus distance that the diopter will be able to focus in. This distance is very thin, and based on the power of the diopter, can require you to get within 2 inches / 6cm of the subject. The more powerful the diopter, the closer you must be and the narrower that the focus range becomes. If a subject is too large to fit in the frame and still achieve focus then there is nothing to be done other than remove the diopter - the subject is simply outside the maximum focus distance of the lens. The CMC-1 (being a stronger diopter) will require you to get even closer than the CMC-2.
@@backscatteruw Hi and thank you for your reply which "confirmed my fears". So I'm quite happy that I was able to get an occasion of an "only" +10 diopter (not the favourized CMC-2, but a SAGA +10 which was a real bargain so I coudn't say "no" :) ) I think that is much more easier to handle, evenmore for a beginner in macro shooting. To minimize the problems of this really shot working distance, I meanwhile heard about the WTC teleconveter from idiving. This converter increases the focal length (e.g. the Sony RX100 III to V, wit 70mm isn't that tele giant!) and futhermore (with the diopter on it's top!) , it will increase the working distance. Ever heard of this? Recommendable?
The Sony 28mm-60mm seems like a compromise to me. The 16-35mm GM 18mm Zeiss and 14mm GM for sony are much better lenses. I wish there was a way to utilize those with wet lenses under 2K us dollars...
Would love to see a 2024 update to this that covers the latest additions to the Nauticam world.
Super informative. I feel like nauticam are one of the few companies still trying to innovate, appreciate the effort. Definitely expensive, but what can you do :D
Now that Nauticam has released the new FCP-1 lens, I was able to score a used WACP-1 for a lot less than retail price. Heavy, but the high-quality images are worth it!
I have a small smudge scratch on my WWL-1 front element. shows up if there is sunlight shining into it. What are my options. Nauticam did not respond when i emailed them.
Hi Mike! We can assist with having the element replaced. Check out info on sending items in for service here: www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Service
This is the greatest video for the information on Nauticam lens.
However one is still missing, N50 3.5 inch dome, may be because it’s not a wet lens, it’s a port with dome or may I say “dry lens” dome.
Anyway I’m struggling on finding information of it. Could you please give me a little information? Is it works with Nauticam RX100 VII housing? How it perform compared to WWL-C?
Thanks! You are correct that the N50 3.5 inch dome is not a lens itself, it is just a port for compact camera housings with an N50 port size . The purpose of this port is to correct for the refraction that would otherwise occur behind the standard flat port, restoring the camera to its 24mm width underwater. This will limit the versatility of the camera because it cannot be fully zoomed through. In addition, it will not do anything to enhance the optical sharpness like a wet lens would. In almost every case, you would be better served when shooting wide angle to go with the N50 short flat port and a wide angle conversion lens such as the WWL-C. It will support more zoom range, a wider field of view, and much better image quality overall. Please feel free to send us an email at info@backscatter.com and we can get into more detail with you. Thanks!
Robin, thanks for putting this together. This is like an encyclopedia that I keep going back to, to decide what lenses to choose. Does the MWL-1 cause barrel distortion while taking videos? Are there any video samples using the MWL-1 that I can take a look?
Glad you have found it helpful! The MWL-1 won't cause significant barrel distortion, but we've found it's difficult to dial-in super sharp corners under certain settings. Nauticam has some sample images here, and please feel free to call or email us for more info: www.nauticam.com/products/macro-to-wide-angle-lens-1-mwl-1-150-deg-fov-with-full-frame-60mm-macro-lens
Thank you!!! Great Video. An information I missed was the amount of light to shoot the fantastic images - Strobes? Strong video LEDs?
Always strobes for photos, and video lights when shooting video. Feel free to reach out to us at info@backscatter.com if you want to learn more!
Will MWL-1 work in sony rx100 vii? Thank you
It's not designed to work with that camera unfortunately.
Is that possible to use the macro or microscope modes of the Tg6 with the WWL-C?
There is no practical reason to do so. The lens is so big that it would prevent you from getting close enough to use macro/microscope modes.
Thank you for this very useful video!
But however there is one question left..
I've got a Sony RX100-Va (24-70mm lens) and currently I am looking for a suitable housing. In this race, there are 2 canidates left (Nauticam and Isotta) but as I was quite satisfied with my NA-GH2 housing, the Nauticam Housing (RX100V ProPackage) is a nose ahead :-) (however I like the idea to have the maunfacturer here in Europe)
Furthermore, a WWL-C is on the top of my wishlist and I have the Idea, that Nauticam engineered this lens basically for their own housings, right? :)
But back to the CMC-1 / CMC-2....
I often read, that the CMC-2 (about +10 dioptries) is much more easier to handle than the stronger CMC-1 (about+15 dioptries) and I also read that there is a "fixed" closest focus distance!
Fixed? What does "fixed" mean in this case? According to distance = 1/dioptries with the CMC-2 I would have 10cm (about 3 inch) closest distance while with the CMC-1 only 6cm (about 2 inch).
BUT: are these distances "fixed" /written in stone?
Question: If, a subject is too big for the CMC-1, will I be able to focus it as well on 10cm (3 inches) or more distance or am I fixed on these 6cm (2 inches) which would only allow a few mm of sharpness range. (not to forget the "escaping" distance of some subjects!)
So again... Does the CMC-1 allow me to get a bit more far away (if yes how far?) than 6cm (2 inches)?
Thanks a lot and greetings from Germany :)
Good question. In this case "fixed" means that there is a set maximum and minimum focus distance that the diopter will be able to focus in. This distance is very thin, and based on the power of the diopter, can require you to get within 2 inches / 6cm of the subject. The more powerful the diopter, the closer you must be and the narrower that the focus range becomes. If a subject is too large to fit in the frame and still achieve focus then there is nothing to be done other than remove the diopter - the subject is simply outside the maximum focus distance of the lens. The CMC-1 (being a stronger diopter) will require you to get even closer than the CMC-2.
@@backscatteruw Hi and thank you for your reply which "confirmed my fears".
So I'm quite happy that I was able to get an occasion of an "only" +10 diopter (not the favourized CMC-2, but a SAGA +10 which was a real bargain so I coudn't say "no" :) )
I think that is much more easier to handle, evenmore for a beginner in macro shooting.
To minimize the problems of this really shot working distance, I meanwhile heard about the WTC teleconveter from idiving.
This converter increases the focal length (e.g. the Sony RX100 III to V, wit 70mm isn't that tele giant!) and futhermore (with the diopter on it's top!) , it will increase the working distance.
Ever heard of this? Recommendable?
The Sony 28mm-60mm seems like a compromise to me. The 16-35mm GM 18mm Zeiss and 14mm GM for sony are much better lenses. I wish there was a way to utilize those with wet lenses under 2K us dollars...
Great video for using this lens! Nauticam needs to have better tutorials
Thank you!