One of the best tutorials I've seen on youtube, Very well articulated and explained. Will allow a novice DIYer to tackle this job without any issues. We'll done, keep up the good work Sat. From 13 years of joining youtube, this is my first comment I've posted. Thats how good I thought it was.
This was fantastic. I have builders in my home at the moment working on this exact thing. It enables me as a consumer to see if they are not cutting corners...and so far they are brilliant.
I just want to say thank you, for. Your videos and specifically this one, I’ve removed a toilet and added in a wall hung one by watching this over and over, I’m super chuffed with myself, you went into so much detail and answered all my questions, thank you 😊
To use PEX than is need an sweat adaptor from copper to PEX expendable or crimp. Also can use pres fit copper fitting viega either for copper to PEX or copper to copper I presume
Brilliant video and an immense help, thank you! I'm using the Grohe frame, but it's very similar and the instructions thst came with it are not very detailed to say the least. 👍
Have watched this quite a few times now, the detail is excellent. Never fitted one of these types of toilet before and redoing my own bathroom. All ready for the tiler now 😊
Literally one of the best tutorials I have watched. Excellent presentation, clear and concise. Keep up the good work. Subscribed off the back of this video. 👍
there are many videos on this install on youtube including from GEBERIT themselves, but this one is the best, its a long video but thats whats needed for this especially if like me its first time doing one, thanks for your video.
@@diybathroom5123 one question. I have a sheet of 12mm ply spare and no green plasterboard. Would the 12mm ply be ok behind the hung toilet? Save me having to buy a sheet of plastervoard
Thank you!!!! Have been struggling to understand what fitting to use on the concealed cistern. I had been looking at Speedfit elbow to tap, or a flexible hose but was concerned about the seal onto the cistern fitting (virtually the same as you show here).
Great video, really helpful, clearly explained and in detail which is the area I was missing from other videos. One thing I didn’t understand was the tip about placing a block of wood between the legs of the frame? Could you explain? Many thanks, J
Dude, I love your video. You are a total pro and carry yourself well with your informational explanation. You also seem to love your work. Cheers mate!
A very informative and enjoyable tutorial...great stuff. I'm DIY'ing this job right now, so I've found your film very useful and it's helped me a lot. Bravo Sir.......(subscribed)
Very good detailed video and good explanation I wish you could post more videos about bathroom it's really helpfull keep up the good work mate.. Upload more videos
Great video /explanatory step by step appreciate your concern protecting the floor and how about control flush box is protruding out of wall ? It can be flush out with tile finish wall ?
thanks for the video. though aesthetically nice these are a pain to fix anything inside. i did a leak test by placing a bit of paper towel inside the toilet and it instanlty got wet revealing there is a slight leak. what would be a common cause, something inside the wall?
Hi mate, great videos I’ve watched it 3 times to fully understand everything. Early stages into my bathroom fitting journey. Just one question, the Geberit system only comes with the 90° soil pipe connection, so what do you do if your soil pipe goes straight out the brick work behind the system? If any links to products PLEASE link it. Thank you!
Absolutely the best video I have seen on how to install a concealed toilet system. I am fitting mine on Friday and was concerned about flex behind toilet pan when installed. You cover this around 37.20. Would you use the self tapping screw or is a sealant best? Depending on your reply, what size screw would you use? Or which sealant. Thanks and keep up the good work. Ian
Hi Ian thank you so much, glad it will help you installing the frame. I have always used a sealant like CT1. Self tapping screws around 25mm can also be used. The purpose of the screws is to get the plasterboard to hug the steel and avoid any micro gaps forming. You can also use a hss bit around 3mm and and drive a few drywall screws into the frame to squash the sealant. Ultimately when it’s tiled you need to make sure there’s full bed coverage of adhesive. Hope that helps. Any questions please feel free to ask.
What about the .098 version? Would the seat hit the flush plate? I suppose it might depend on the WC but generally, any feedback would be most welcome. Nice video btw, thank you!
Thank you for the reply. Is there another option for flushes with these frames? Ie. a flush sit away from the cistern? I have seen this before as a push button rather than a flush plate.
@@Mit_yourfriend yes you can get a pneumatic dual flush button. You have to alter the parts inside. I’m not entirely sure if it’s doable on a 0.98 but I can’t see why not
Absolute legend. What a perfectly explained video. Many thanks. Quick question, when hand tightening the locking Allen key bolts that pull the pan tighter to the wall, how do you know when to stop? What is the limit? I get worried I will tighten it so much that I will crack either the pan or the tiles 🙊
Hi. The way to check is the physically see the pan being pulled and to the point the Allen keys are too hard to turn. If you’re adhesive bed is full your tiles shouldn’t crack. Silicone around the pan and once cure sit to see if you see any obvious movement.
This is a great instructional video for me as this will be my first time installing a toilet. I have recently purchased the same wall-hung setup for my cloakroom. I was checking all the waste pipe fittings and came across a small issue. The waste pipe goes straight into the concrete floor but is 110mm in diameter, and the outlet pipe in the set is 90mm in diameter. Watching your video you mention a reducer from 110mm to 90mm. Could you tell me if this is in the kit or if I have to purchase one? Do you have a web link to the part? Thanks
Do you always glue soil pipes in? I've noticed most of the soil pipes here are push fit with rubber seals... is that normal for internal soil fittings etc or just underground?
Hi, thanks alot for this video & am super excited watching it. Actually am about installing something similar for the very first time as a plumber & I have been doing alot of thinking on it. Please I have some some questions for like (1) I have watch alot of video concerning on the installation, alot of them have similar stuff like placing the wall mounted concealed frame on a wood. Does that necessarily mean I have to tell my client to build wooden frame for it? (2) How about the option of using blocks? (3) am also concerned more on the finish floor level so my w/c won't be more higher above the floor?. (4) using plywood to cover the whole framework, can tiles stick to the wood?
Hi. I’ve got from front to back, 165mm of space for the frame to fit in. Will this be enough to allow for the bend in the side fitting soil pipe? I’m having to put a new soil pipe in so I can drill it anywhere in that space mentioned above. Thank you
I used this video to install my toilet. Its not perfect but it works😅 especially aligning and leveling is ver difficult if you dont have a frame in place first
Great video! I now feel 90% there with tackling this myself, however, the only remaining question I have is... Is this the same process if going against plaster only wall as opposed to tile behind? Thanks in advance!
Can you just add some additional wood framing to brace the tank in between the two studs? I wouldn't think you would want to secure the tank to the wallboard, so the tank and bowel can move seprately without moving the wallboard (and cracking joint)
love your channel. thanks. my question: remodel concrete slab bathroom, don't want to damage slab, don't want to use old sewer, can i use this wall mount framing with toilet face the exterior wall and hook the bowl drain toward outside of the wall to connect the new sewer line reroute ABS pipe?
The frames normally come with a right angle waste pipe. This can be rotated to point downwards or sideways. Not sure if they do one with a straight pipe to go straight back and out of the wall. You could add another 90 degree bend so it goes down (or sideways) then turns to go out through a wall.
@@ColinWatters yes you’re right Another brand that supplies the straight 3inch aswell as the elbow is a brand which is another favourite. It’s called TECE made in Germany.
Thank you for the informative presentation. I’m in the process of planning for my install but I’m not finding necessary information to finalize my plans. My total wall board thickness will only be ½ inches. Do you feel this will be adequate or does the flush actuator need more room to operate correctly? Thank you.
Is it reliable with an almost horizontal slope? I am looking to install this exact frame/carrier and luckily found your video after endless searching. The manual says the outlet should maximum go 45 degrees to each side but I don't have enough height to make that work so I have been searching everywhere to find out if nearly horizontal similar to what you do in the video will work. My setup is identical to yours except instead of wood at the bottom I have a riser clamp where the tee in the main stack has to sit above which causes the center of the outlet to be nearly at the same height as the toilet outlet. There is only around 10 inches from the toilet outlet to the main stack where it will connect. I have been calculating back and forth and adding the floor height like you advise and the center of the toilet outlet will be around 9.25"-9.75" from the ground and the center of the tee outlet in the main soil stack will be around 8.75", so a drop of 0.50" to 1" over 10". Hope you have time to answer as I don't know what the heck to do and have had to stop the project while my hole bathroom is gutted. Thanks for sharing this video - best video I have found.
Hi Martin. Your calculation sounds correct in terms of height. In regards to the slope of you drainage pipe, I can honest say from experience you will be fine. 10 inches is a very small distance. Obviously the T (sweeping T / branch ) portion sweeps down? The force of the water from the cistern will be enough to get the rid of the waste.
Great video. Very detailed explanations of what you are doing however... I disagree completely with your comment ref plasterboard and tiling. Plasterboard should NEVER be used in any bathroom, cloakroom and especially not in a shower area or wet room. This materials is for covering studwork hence why the Americans call it drywall. The clue is in the name. So plasterboard, no matter how dense, is definitely NOT suitable for large format tiles and has a very low loading capacity so this limits the weight of tiles you can adhere to it. If you plaster skim the plasterboard prior to tiling this makes the situation worse as the max loading value decreases. You should always use "backer board". There are many makes of this in all sizes and thicknesses and once taped and sealed at the joins and corners is a far superior product which can take much heavier wall tiles. Yes, this is more expensive but I prefer my tiles not to come off the wall which ends up being cheaper in the long run if you have to start over again.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I’d have to agree on some areas you’ve mentioned however my experience over the last 20 years has intuitively grasped that any 10mm porcelain or hard grade ceramic tile when back buttered and full bedded, creates an extremely solid surface. I think it’s a skill in itself to understand where and what product to use in what scenario. I would definitely never skim with gypsum products. And with your reference to loads I would say that there is no load to be pulling on the plasterboard when the pan itself is clamping it fully to the metal frame work. Your have provided an excellent analysis of my tutorial and I greatly appreciate the feedback
@diybathrooms5123. Hi thanks for the reply. Think I wasn't too clear about loading. I was referring to the load on the plasterboard from the wall tiles not the toilet. There should be no load at all on the plasterboard where the toilet pans is hung as all the rotational and downward forces should be taken up by the timber frame. If anyone feels they must tile on plasterboard and not backer board then the load of the tiles has to be taken into account so large format tiles are not a good idea as there is a maximum weight per m2 that plasterboard, not skimmed, can take 🤫
Should I have concerns regarding the Jackoboard type wetroom boards, with regard to compression? I've watched several videos using this or wedi with wall hung toilets....?
@@stevenb007 No. Jackoboard, wedi board, marmox board and all other products of this type are specifically designed to take the load of large format tiles. If fixed correctly to the wall or studwork and sealed and taped correctly following the instructions then this set up is ideal for any wet area. These boards are waterproof and even provide a level of insulation. Plasterboard should NEVER be used in any wet area and in fact I would recommend avoiding it completely. If this stuff gets wet even to the slightest degree then the moisture will continue to "wick up" in the board(s). You will end up with mould and the boards eventually turn to mush - tiles then fall off the wall. With regards to fitting wall hung toilets - these usually come with a substantial metal frame which is fixed to the studwork and in most cases to the wall behind the studwork. The load of the toilet is then taken up by this frame and the surrounding wall/studwork. There will be no issue using any of the reputable backer boards available with these wall hung toilets. In my opinion compression dosnt come into this installation. The backer boards are fitted to take the load of the tiles, the toilet is fixed to the metal frame. By all means post again if this isnt answering your question
Hi. Super video. Just wondering, if the soil pipe is going straight out the back.. the Geberit kit only comes with an elbow. Do you need to get a special Geberit straight fitting? Thanks a mil!
Yes you would need to order the straight fitting. There is a way to make it work using the reducer that they supply but you need to be experienced in positioning it
@@diybathroom5123 Thanks a mil for the reply. I think Screwfix seem to have quite a few diff fittings, so I reckon I'll maybe take out the old toilet first and see what'll work best then.
Did you have any issues when the bowl was installed? Per the directions it specifically says you can only install the elbow vertically or nothing less than a 45° angle.
Hi, the reason the screw did not thread, is because you used a drill, that damaged the thread. Probably better to use a large straight bit in the drill, to screw in the rod, if you cant be bothered to to by hand.
Just came across your channel whilst looking for tips and tricks on installing a Wall Hung toilet. I do have to say possibly the best install tutorial on this subject, Clearly explaining the areas that people will struggle in. Great job.
There’s never a set amount from my experience. My early years as an apprentice I would wrap a cone shape at the start and then proceed with the wraps nice and flat/tight and leave one thread to catch the female. However some machining of parts varies and you’ll find the tightness can vary significantly. Now I use Loctite 577 which fills the thread completely.
One of the best tutorials I've seen on youtube, Very well articulated and explained. Will allow a novice DIYer to tackle this job without any issues. We'll done, keep up the good work Sat.
From 13 years of joining youtube, this is my first comment I've posted. Thats how good I thought it was.
That’s great to hear. So glad you found it helpful.
This was fantastic. I have builders in my home at the moment working on this exact thing. It enables me as a consumer to see if they are not cutting corners...and so far they are brilliant.
Super. Very well explained. This is the very first tutorial that that I have seen that goes in such detail. Well done.
I just want to say thank you, for. Your videos and specifically this one, I’ve removed a toilet and added in a wall hung one by watching this over and over, I’m super chuffed with myself, you went into so much detail and answered all my questions, thank you 😊
Your most welcome. You can find me on signature_installations on instagram
How decent slop is 1/4"×1' or 1/2"×1' ?
To use PEX than is need an sweat adaptor from copper to PEX expendable or crimp. Also can use pres fit copper fitting viega either for copper to PEX or copper to copper I presume
That water /moister resistant board is cod surround bathtub or any other areas where moisture might occur prior tilling
...simply BRILLIANT, thanks a million times!
Excellent tutorial with decent tips. 35yrs in the trades and I’m still learning! Thank you.
Thankyou Steve. We never stop learning.
Brilliant video and an immense help, thank you! I'm using the Grohe frame, but it's very similar and the instructions thst came with it are not very detailed to say the least. 👍
Best tutorial i have ever seen! Forever greatfull❤
Superb best I have seen
Fabulous video, going to be doing this this week and this made so much more sense than the instruction pamphlet
You are amazing, thank you for such a great, informative tutorial.
Have watched this quite a few times now, the detail is excellent. Never fitted one of these types of toilet before and redoing my own bathroom. All ready for the tiler now 😊
Ten out of Ten for ease of tutorial, you clearly know your trade, I only wish you were my Plumber !
You’re very welcome Mark
You can find me on instagram at signature_installations
Fantastic vid, covering all the areas other videos and instructions gloss over 👌🏼
The BEST video explaining this instillation.
Glad it was helpful!
Literally one of the best tutorials I have watched. Excellent presentation, clear and concise. Keep up the good work. Subscribed off the back of this video. 👍
one of the best tutorials I have seen! well done I am now a subscriber
What a brilliant guide,better than the manufacturers installation, instructions + the little pitfall tips to boot thank you and keep up the good work
Superb tutorial! Your time and effort much appreciated. This helps to anticipate everything upfront!
Very concise and useful tutorial for trade/diy installers 😊
there are many videos on this install on youtube including from GEBERIT themselves, but this one is the best, its a long video but thats whats needed for this especially if like me its first time doing one, thanks for your video.
Thankyou glad you found it helpful
You are an amazing trainer. Thank you.
Very comprehensive best I've seen learnt lot
Thanks for this. Really well done and easy to follow. I'm fitting a grohe one and all your tips have been a godsend
You’re welcome. It’s virtually the same principal
@@diybathroom5123 one question. I have a sheet of 12mm ply spare and no green plasterboard. Would the 12mm ply be ok behind the hung toilet? Save me having to buy a sheet of plastervoard
Great video matey, lots of patience in presenting. Just about to tackle this job as a DIY for the first time.
You’re most welcome. Have a great day. You can find me on instagram also
EXCELLENT INSTRUCTION ,thank you most helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
This is a great video. Well explained and easy to follow. Only wish you did a part 2 to include fitting the fresh air module thingy!
Thanks.
Thank you!!!! Have been struggling to understand what fitting to use on the concealed cistern. I had been looking at Speedfit elbow to tap, or a flexible hose but was concerned about the seal onto the cistern fitting (virtually the same as you show here).
Such an informative and well explained demo. Cheers and thanks !!!
No problem you’re welcome
Absolutely excellent and very helpful. Thanks for doing this.
Great video, really helpful, clearly explained and in detail which is the area I was missing from other videos.
One thing I didn’t understand was the tip about placing a block of wood between the legs of the frame? Could you explain?
Many thanks, J
Dude, I love your video. You are a total pro and carry yourself well with your informational explanation. You also seem to love your work. Cheers mate!
Thanks you can find me on Instagram
Signature_installations
Great job plenty of detail, much better then the geberit animation tutorials
Thank you so much. It's a very good tutorial
You did a great job explaining everything- A+
Great gid. Very calming voice!
You are the best plumber mate.
Nice vid. Say hello to Joe Cornish when you see him. Miss you guys!
A very informative and enjoyable tutorial...great stuff. I'm DIY'ing this job right now, so I've found your film very useful and it's helped me a lot. Bravo Sir.......(subscribed)
Excellent work! Thank you.
Thank you too!
Very detailed 👌 explanation ❤
Very good detailed video and good explanation I wish you could post more videos about bathroom it's really helpfull keep up the good work mate.. Upload more videos
Thanks and sure
Great video /explanatory step by step appreciate your concern protecting the floor and how about control flush box is protruding out of wall ? It can be flush out with tile finish wall ?
Yes the plastic surround snaps off to accommodate different tile thickness
@@diybathroom5123 thanks
thanks for the video. though aesthetically nice these are a pain to fix anything inside. i did a leak test by placing a bit of paper towel inside the toilet and it instanlty got wet revealing there is a slight leak. what would be a common cause, something inside the wall?
Great video…. Thank you
Very elaborate! Thank you
This is very well presented
Thanks
That was really helpful . Thanks
Hi mate, great videos I’ve watched it 3 times to fully understand everything. Early stages into my bathroom fitting journey. Just one question, the Geberit system only comes with the 90° soil pipe connection, so what do you do if your soil pipe goes straight out the brick work behind the system? If any links to products PLEASE link it. Thank you!
@@Unprotectedsets_ hi you can order the straight connector online
Well explained very patiently cheers 🎉
You’re welcome 😉
Fantastic tutorial ,ive follwed this to fit my toilet frame only one question. would you use a geberit noise reduction gasket. Thanks for your time
Your welcome
Wouldn’t hurt to use one. Not a common practice because it really depends on the manufacturer of the bowl.
Very informative video!
Absolutely the best video I have seen on how to install a concealed toilet system. I am fitting mine on Friday and was concerned about flex behind toilet pan when installed. You cover this around 37.20. Would you use the self tapping screw or is a sealant best? Depending on your reply, what size screw would you use? Or which sealant. Thanks and keep up the good work. Ian
Hi Ian thank you so much, glad it will help you installing the frame. I have always used a sealant like CT1. Self tapping screws around 25mm can also be used. The purpose of the screws is to get the plasterboard to hug the steel and avoid any micro gaps forming. You can also use a hss bit around 3mm and and drive a few drywall screws into the frame to squash the sealant. Ultimately when it’s tiled you need to make sure there’s full bed coverage of adhesive. Hope that helps. Any questions please feel free to ask.
Brilliant, thanks for the reply, will definitely be using a mixture of both.
You can follow me on instagram @signature_installations
Best tutorial ever..😊
Thank you
Thank you buddy very helpful! 😊
Great video 👍
You’re most welcome
What about the .098 version? Would the seat hit the flush plate? I suppose it might depend on the WC but generally, any feedback would be most welcome. Nice video btw, thank you!
Yes it does hit the flush
Thank you for the reply. Is there another option for flushes with these frames? Ie. a flush sit away from the cistern? I have seen this before as a push button rather than a flush plate.
@@Mit_yourfriend yes you can get a pneumatic dual flush button. You have to alter the parts inside. I’m not entirely sure if it’s doable on a 0.98 but I can’t see why not
The best explanation on installing a Geberet
Thank you
What are your thoughts on Flomasta PTSE liquid for compression joints
Thanks. As per your question, I haven’t used that. For compression fittings I use jointing compound
Excellent, thank you!
Absolute legend. What a perfectly explained video. Many thanks. Quick question, when hand tightening the locking Allen key bolts that pull the pan tighter to the wall, how do you know when to stop? What is the limit? I get worried I will tighten it so much that I will crack either the pan or the tiles 🙊
Hi. The way to check is the physically see the pan being pulled and to the point the Allen keys are too hard to turn. If you’re adhesive bed is full your tiles shouldn’t crack. Silicone around the pan and once cure sit to see if you see any obvious movement.
This is a great instructional video for me as this will be my first time installing a toilet. I have recently purchased the same wall-hung setup for my cloakroom. I was checking all the waste pipe fittings and came across a small issue. The waste pipe goes straight into the concrete floor but is 110mm in diameter, and the outlet pipe in the set is 90mm in diameter. Watching your video you mention a reducer from 110mm to 90mm. Could you tell me if this is in the kit or if I have to purchase one? Do you have a web link to the part? Thanks
Do you always glue soil pipes in? I've noticed most of the soil pipes here are push fit with rubber seals... is that normal for internal soil fittings etc or just underground?
you are the best, explenation was spot on , can I ask if you ever face any issue with leaking
What an epic video.. pls make more
Great video. Is it possible to install without the threaded rods at the back? Some people claim you can fix them sideways into the wood frame?
Yea you absolutely can
Hi, thanks alot for this video & am super excited watching it. Actually am about installing something similar for the very first time as a plumber & I have been doing alot of thinking on it.
Please I have some some questions for like
(1) I have watch alot of video concerning on the installation, alot of them have similar stuff like placing the wall mounted concealed frame on a wood. Does that necessarily mean I have to tell my client to build wooden frame for it?
(2) How about the option of using blocks?
(3) am also concerned more on the finish floor level so my w/c won't be more higher above the floor?.
(4) using plywood to cover the whole framework, can tiles stick to the wood?
You can sit this on blocks also. I would not use plywood unless you cover it with an anti fracture membrane
@@diybathroom5123 so what's the best material to use when sitting it on block wall to cover it?
Great explanation, thanks
You’re very welcome
Great video!
Hi. I’ve got from front to back, 165mm of space for the frame to fit in. Will this be enough to allow for the bend in the side fitting soil pipe?
I’m having to put a new soil pipe in so I can drill it anywhere in that space mentioned above. Thank you
Very good video
Great video
Thank you Master 🙏
You are very welcome
I used this video to install my toilet. Its not perfect but it works😅 especially aligning and leveling is ver difficult if you dont have a frame in place first
Great video! I now feel 90% there with tackling this myself, however, the only remaining question I have is... Is this the same process if going against plaster only wall as opposed to tile behind? Thanks in advance!
Hi If it’s a plaster( skim background id be more inclined to use a cement board instead. Something like Hardibackerboard
Can you just add some additional wood framing to brace the tank in between the two studs? I wouldn't think you would want to secure the tank to the wallboard, so the tank and bowel can move seprately without moving the wallboard (and cracking joint)
Thanks bro
Thanks, great tutorial. If you were not tiling would you recommend 2 layers of plasterboard?
I’d suggest a solid base like Hardi backer. Prime with acrylic primer and skim coat.
love your channel. thanks. my question: remodel concrete slab bathroom, don't want to damage slab, don't want to use old sewer, can i use this wall mount framing with toilet face the exterior wall and hook the bowl drain toward outside of the wall to connect the new sewer line reroute ABS pipe?
Yes that’s precisely what you have to do. I presume you are in the uk ?
The frames normally come with a right angle waste pipe. This can be rotated to point downwards or sideways. Not sure if they do one with a straight pipe to go straight back and out of the wall. You could add another 90 degree bend so it goes down (or sideways) then turns to go out through a wall.
@@ColinWatters yes you’re right
Another brand that supplies the straight 3inch aswell as the elbow is a brand which is another favourite. It’s called TECE made in Germany.
Thank you for the informative presentation. I’m in the process of planning for my install but I’m not finding necessary information to finalize my plans. My total wall board thickness will only be ½ inches. Do you feel this will be adequate or does the flush actuator need more room to operate correctly? Thank you.
The flush button will accommodate a board and tile thickness over 50mm. You simply cut back the protruding box and rods inside
@@diybathroom5123 Sounds great - thank you for the quick response!
Is it reliable with an almost horizontal slope?
I am looking to install this exact frame/carrier and luckily found your video after endless searching. The manual says the outlet should maximum go 45 degrees to each side but I don't have enough height to make that work so I have been searching everywhere to find out if nearly horizontal similar to what you do in the video will work.
My setup is identical to yours except instead of wood at the bottom I have a riser clamp where the tee in the main stack has to sit above which causes the center of the outlet to be nearly at the same height as the toilet outlet.
There is only around 10 inches from the toilet outlet to the main stack where it will connect.
I have been calculating back and forth and adding the floor height like you advise and the center of the toilet outlet will be around 9.25"-9.75" from the ground and the center of the tee outlet in the main soil stack will be around 8.75", so a drop of 0.50" to 1" over 10".
Hope you have time to answer as I don't know what the heck to do and have had to stop the project while my hole bathroom is gutted.
Thanks for sharing this video - best video I have found.
Hi Martin. Your calculation sounds correct in terms of height. In regards to the slope of you drainage pipe, I can honest say from experience you will be fine. 10 inches is a very small distance. Obviously the T (sweeping T / branch ) portion sweeps down? The force of the water from the cistern will be enough to get the rid of the waste.
Great video. Very detailed explanations of what you are doing however... I disagree completely with your comment ref plasterboard and tiling. Plasterboard should NEVER be used in any bathroom, cloakroom and especially not in a shower area or wet room. This materials is for covering studwork hence why the Americans call it drywall. The clue is in the name. So plasterboard, no matter how dense, is definitely NOT suitable for large format tiles and has a very low loading capacity so this limits the weight of tiles you can adhere to it. If you plaster skim the plasterboard prior to tiling this makes the situation worse as the max loading value decreases. You should always use "backer board". There are many makes of this in all sizes and thicknesses and once taped and sealed at the joins and corners is a far superior product which can take much heavier wall tiles. Yes, this is more expensive but I prefer my tiles not to come off the wall which ends up being cheaper in the long run if you have to start over again.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I’d have to agree on some areas you’ve mentioned however my experience over the last 20 years has intuitively grasped that any 10mm porcelain or hard grade ceramic tile when back buttered and full bedded, creates an extremely solid surface. I think it’s a skill in itself to understand where and what product to use in what scenario. I would definitely never skim with gypsum products. And with your reference to loads I would say that there is no load to be pulling on the plasterboard when the pan itself is clamping it fully to the metal frame work. Your have provided an excellent analysis of my tutorial and I greatly appreciate the feedback
@diybathrooms5123. Hi thanks for the reply. Think I wasn't too clear about loading. I was referring to the load on the plasterboard from the wall tiles not the toilet. There should be no load at all on the plasterboard where the toilet pans is hung as all the rotational and downward forces should be taken up by the timber frame. If anyone feels they must tile on plasterboard and not backer board then the load of the tiles has to be taken into account so large format tiles are not a good idea as there is a maximum weight per m2 that plasterboard, not skimmed, can take 🤫
Should I have concerns regarding the Jackoboard type wetroom boards, with regard to compression? I've watched several videos using this or wedi with wall hung toilets....?
@@stevenb007 No. Jackoboard, wedi board, marmox board and all other products of this type are specifically designed to take the load of large format tiles. If fixed correctly to the wall or studwork and sealed and taped correctly following the instructions then this set up is ideal for any wet area. These boards are waterproof and even provide a level of insulation. Plasterboard should NEVER be used in any wet area and in fact I would recommend avoiding it completely. If this stuff gets wet even to the slightest degree then the moisture will continue to "wick up" in the board(s). You will end up with mould and the boards eventually turn to mush - tiles then fall off the wall. With regards to fitting wall hung toilets - these usually come with a substantial metal frame which is fixed to the studwork and in most cases to the wall behind the studwork. The load of the toilet is then taken up by this frame and the surrounding wall/studwork. There will be no issue using any of the reputable backer boards available with these wall hung toilets. In my opinion compression dosnt come into this installation. The backer boards are fitted to take the load of the tiles, the toilet is fixed to the metal frame. By all means post again if this isnt answering your question
thank u
Brilliant Thanks so much
You’re most welcome
You have two types of wall toilet fixation, top one like you have in your tutorial and side fixation, in your opinion which is better?
From experience the only difference is aesthetic. Side fixings are usually visible as apposed to top fixings
Hi. Super video. Just wondering, if the soil pipe is going straight out the back.. the Geberit kit only comes with an elbow. Do you need to get a special Geberit straight fitting? Thanks a mil!
Yes you would need to order the straight fitting. There is a way to make it work using the reducer that they supply but you need to be experienced in positioning it
@@diybathroom5123 Thanks a mil for the reply. I think Screwfix seem to have quite a few diff fittings, so I reckon I'll maybe take out the old toilet first and see what'll work best then.
@@diybathroom5123 By the way, your videos are excellent. Hope you get back to them and it works out for you. Defo deserve a much larger following.
Good job 👍
Thanks
Thank you!
You’re welcome
Did you have any issues when the bowl was installed? Per the directions it specifically says you can only install the elbow vertically or nothing less than a 45° angle.
From experience you should have a problem with the drainage less than 45
@@diybathroom5123 should or shouldn't?
@@andrewrossnagel9433 Apologies you shouldn’t have a problem. As long as there is a slight tilt you’ll be fine
thankyou mate
You're welcome!
Thanks alot
Would u say these geberit are better than the grohes
From experience au can say they have a wide range of flush buttons and dimensions to accommodate restricted space
Had install one those units to a cement base floor. Client is worried about heavy people over 500lbs sitting on it.
👏👏👏
Hi, the reason the screw did not thread, is because you used a drill, that damaged the thread. Probably better to use a large straight bit in the drill, to screw in the rod, if you cant be bothered to to by hand.
Brand new threads sometimes do not catch. It’s not the case of not being bothered. Thanks for watching
the best , better than geberit.
Thanks
Just came across your channel whilst looking for tips and tricks on installing a Wall Hung toilet. I do have to say possibly the best install tutorial on this subject, Clearly explaining the areas that people will struggle in. Great job.
Thankyou Darren. I felt every other video just brushed over the topic.
Great tutorial BUT 15 wraps of PTFE!!!
Those bullet connections look ambitious . Duravit use a locked nut . Better
How many turns of PTFE Tape?!?!
15 perhaps. Other option use a liquid plastic like loctite 577. Wolsey plumber merchants sell it
@@diybathroom5123 Apprentice you're the expert but in similar installs I would have done 5/6 wraps maximum?
You can fined me on Instagram too
There’s never a set amount from my experience. My early years as an apprentice I would wrap a cone shape at the start and then proceed with the wraps nice and flat/tight and leave one thread to catch the female. However some machining of parts varies and you’ll find the tightness can vary significantly. Now I use Loctite 577 which fills the thread completely.
45:15 friction mark city !!!