1947 Chevy S10 Frame Conversion Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- In today's video I show you part one of my 1947 Chevy pickup project. I used a 2000 Chevy s10 frame under my 1947 cab and bed. Throughout this series I will show you how I get this truck on the road and there is a ton of fab work. This is my first project like this so If anyone has suggestions or improvements, I would appreciate the input. Thanks for watching, please like comment, and subscribe.
AHP Tig 200: ahpwelds.com/catalog/tig
Lincoln 140: www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...
Keep up good work
Thanks, will do!
I haven't seen a S10 that nice around here in 15 years. (Michigan)
Well made, good edit, no bs! 👍
Cant wait to see the next part!
That was slick! Nice fab work👍🏽💪🏼👊🏽
Thank You!
I have a 46 Chevy coupe sitting on a 1970 chevelle frame, power steering, front disc brake, tilt wheel power disc brake, a far better ride, notch out the shock towers, cut about 10 or so inches off front & rear of frame, fits like a glove !!!
Sounds like a very cool build Timothy. I really love working on hotrods and hope to do a lot more in the future!
Nice
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Also.will like.to.know.the position and hight of the bed mounts and cab mounts as well
Was this a regular bed or long bed s10 cuz I heard with regular bed you have to extend the frame
It was a long bed s10. I heard that the regular bed was too short too, the long bed almost seemed one or two inches too long I ended up with a gap I didn't like between the bed and the cab, but maybe I just was too picky. If you go with the long bed it is better to have too much frame, then not enough. Thank you for commenting and good luck on your build!
What did you do to beef up the floor of your 1948 cab? I have a 1948 3100 that I'm mounting with 2 rear cab mounts instead of the single center cab mount as well, and looking for ideas on how to strengthen the cab floor corners where there weren't cab mounts originally.
I think that I used a piece of rectangular tube that was 1x2 that ran across the floor all along the back wall. I welded it to both corners of the cab and spot welds along the floor to help support the cab. The actual crossmember that was welded to the frame was made of 2x2 square tube that worked great to hold it all together. Thank you for the question and let me know if I can help with anything else!
@@thebackyardfabricator3419 1 last question... how did you remove the rear cab from the chassis? My 2 nuts are rusty as hell and just spin the post/bolts that go thru the frame crossmember. And there's no room to put any tools on the top of those posts/bolts to keep them from spinning. Did you just Sawzall them apart?
@@catchkcsglide7945 Yes I did just Sawzall them apart mine were too rusty to unbolt. Thank you for the questions and good luck on your build!
How much will you charge me to convert my 1953 chevy like yours?
Tengo una picautst 100millonesdetoneladas
Is this a 108” wheelbase?
This truck has close to a 118'' wheelbase stock, and it fits pretty well without modification to the frame length. I may modify it in the future if I put on new fenders. Thank you for the comment!
How is truck coming and what kind of engine have you put it in it.
So far not a whole lot has changed but I will be working on it soon and post the next video. Also I am just putting a 350 small block in it with a th350 transmission. Thanks for commenting!
I thought this could only be done with an extended cab frame?????!!
It worked pretty well with this frame. I was told this frame would work perfectly but I think I might need to shorten it by a couple inches. Thanks for the comment!
Regular cab long bed is the preferred choice for chassis swap with no frame cutting /splicing
Adrianust