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This video provides useful information on how to properly use a soldering kit. This reduces the number of people misusing and causing damage to the product. Videos can help viewers better understand the process and techniques for using the correct soldering kit to avoid common mistakes
47 years as a phone guy in a central office. I went through pounds of solder. When tinning a wire end or soldering a splice, always heat from the bottom and apply solder from the top if possible. Also, apply a coating of fresh solder to your iron's tip just before unplugging it. This way, your tip is nicely tinned when you heat it up and you'll be ready to solder right away.
My father worked for C&P/Bell Atlantic his whole life, and this is exactly how he taught me to solder! Iron under the wire, solder on top. I was soldering hobbyist circuit boards before I was in Middle School!
@@stereodreamer23 I was going to ask why not hold the solder iron under the wire and add solder to the top. I have not soldered nearly as much as you I'm sure but that's how I do it. I also like to use a wider tip for larger wire as in the video.
Generally good advice but may I suggest that a small chisel tip is much more versatile and better suited to this type of soldering in terms of heat transfer. Secondly, apply the flat side of the tip to the underside of the wire (hot air rises) briefly touch the solder to the contact point between the wire and the tip to establish a thermal bridge, wait two seconds for the wire to heat up and then, and only then, apply solder to the top of the wire and let gravity pull it down. Also I like to work with a fairly hot iron which allows one to get in and out fast before melting the insulation.
Yes!, and use a small amount of electrical grade flux (rosin based, never acid) to the joint. The flux in the core is often not that effective. The old "Oatey" brand was great, not sure about today's products since the EPA and California are always "finding" a new carcinogen. I use dry Scotchbrite to clean the tip.
In my experience, the method he is using is perfect for small wire gauges and consider, when soldering electronic components, you must be sure you don't overheat the connectors or you fry the circuit in the chip or transistor. Wetting the tip with solder increases heat transfer and if you apply the solder to the other side of the heated wire or component, the solder will suck in toward the heat filling all gaps and you get a nice non-oxidized solder joint very rapidly so you can pull the heat away. I appreciate your experience with heavier wire and larger components requiring chisel tips and note that sometimes I sure should consider using one. I have not done much work with heavier gauge wire or components.
Let me add one more detail that I think is important and that is to use a small diameter solder. I use 0.8 mm diameter solder with 2.0 % flux for all my soldering. The smaller diameter gives you greater control over the amount of solder being deposited and also reduces the amount of heat being sucked away while the joint is being made. I've also never felt the need to add additional flux. It's a light hearted bone of contention between me and my organ builder friend whom I accuse of using "plumbing" solder. (He's actually very skilled and our record of making cold solder joints is just about the same.)
"This video was really helpful! The information about 92% of people using soldering irons incorrectly helps people realize common mistakes. You communicated clearly and easily, helping viewers improve their soldering skills. Thank you for sharing valuable tips to help us use soldering irons more effectively! Looking forward to your next videos!"
Some more tips... Use distilled water instead of tap water for your sponge to keep out minerals, chlorine and other contaminants. Use a chisel tip for joining wires instead of a pencil tip for better heat transfer and solder flow. Pencil tips are mainly for soldering pins on circuit boards. Pre-Tin each wire before joining the two wires in a splice for better penetration into the core of the solder joint. Use no clean flux core solder. For best results in avoiding long-term corrosion, wash the joint of residual flux with alcohol afterward. Keep alcohol and flammable liquids AWAY from the hot soldering iron. Cover the finished splice with shrink tube, add a toothpick or a q-tip core as a splint under the shrink tube to protect it from bending/breaking.
Oil from fingers does not help adhesion either. NASA standard soldering requires 99% alcohol cleaning wipe down I believe. Or similar. Sure does not hurt if the connection is super important. Also abrasion of the wires for adhesion helps a stronger bond, right?
Lo importante es la limpieza previa de los cables a soldar. Luego es muy importante usar fundente antes de aplicar estaño. NO se debe confundir la convección del calor en el aire con el calentamiento por contacto de dos metales que están en contacto. Aquí NO importa lo que es arriba o abajo.
@@achernarscardozo69 You are right. In the case of a soldering iron that generates a small amount of heat relative to the target, the position of the iron up or down can have an effect, but in that case, we should use a soldering iron that generates an appropriate amount of heat and prioritize ease of use.
Additional flux is helpful. Once when working on an vintage car the wire was heavily tarnished and the soldier wouldn’t flow well. I applied paste flux and heated it and wiped it off several times. When the wire was shiny the solder flowed like it should. My normal practice is to dip the wire into paste flux and wipe off the excess. This assures that the solder flows well. The electrical guy at work uses liquid flux and gets nice joints.
And if someone tries the heatsink "trick" shown here with a non temperature-regulated soldering iron, when you pick up the iron you'll have to wait longer for the tip to heat fully so that it can melt solder effectively.
@@EdWeibe never seen a stand with a heat sink like shown in this Video though. With my stand, the tip of the soldering iron just floats in the air. Same for every other srna die saw in my life.
There MAY be flux inside the core of solder wire, BUT, you need to apply flux paste to the joint for BEST results, AND, always clean burnt flux OFF OF the solder joint once it has cooled. This has been a NASA Spec trained solderer, soldering tip PSA.
@@r6u356une56neyyes when soldering electronics, Especially as modern components have Steel not copper leads, Oh and use 60/40 Tin Lead solder if you want good results.
Very informative yet concise. Soldering has always been hit and miss for me, but I expect you video will improve my success. Also, I have to add that one of the best things about your video that sets it apart from nearly any other instructional video (regardless of the subject matter) is your format. Big plus is NO TALKING! Nice light music, clear close-up demonstration of Dos and Don'ts, backed up with just the right amount of text. Completely avoids the mistakes most TH-camrs make in instructional videos....which are: way much talking, too little instructing, bad camera work, and bad editing. THANK YOU and WELL DONE!
I wouldn’t have used the green side of the sponge. Alligator clips can damage the insulation. Don’t use a pointed tip when soldering larger components. Pull the iron back when you quit applying solder. Don’t continue to heat the solder. I give this video a rating of 3 on a scale of 5.
@@Repairman10169, I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years and the person who begn this comment thread is correct. You can see the teeth marks in the insulation of the wire from the alligator clip and they only get worse when you solder the copper and the heat travels up the copper to soften the insulation. Also, The use of a heat sink to cool the tip down when you're not soldering means that you will have to hold the iron in your hand and let the tip come back up to temperature when you lift it out of the holder in order to solder something. It's better to use a solder station with adjustable temperature and you can just turn it down a little bit when you're not using the iron and then turn it back up to use it again.
@@Repairman10169, ps, I see steam come off of the sponge the first time you touch the tip to it which means that the sponge is too wet. Sponges designed specifically for cleaning sottering tips are supposed to be made with materials that don't contain corrosive compounds such as sulfur or chlorine although if you buy soldering accessories from Amazon or directly from China you get what you get and it may not be high quality. I switched to using the brass wool tip cleaners a decade ago and I find them more effective than the sponge, and I've also seen manufacturers claim that the use of the sponge creates stress fractures in the plating on the tip and shortens tip life. I have also found that buying soldering tips from Amazon or flea Bay or China typically gets you tips that are made of iron or steel throughout from one end to the other and these will provide poor heat transfer. High quality tips should be made from copper that is plated at the pointy end with iron because iron will resist the dissolving effects of solder and flux much better than bare copper which is quickly oxidized and eaten away. If your tips are strongly magnetic throughout from one end to the other then they are likely made of iron or steel, not copper and will give poor performance. ( There's a video on my channel about using a magnet to separate good tips from bad tips). The rest of the tip body might be plated with Chrome or something similar that resists the application of solder. Finally I generally dislike the conical tips that are provided as "standard" with most soldering irons and usually upgrade them to a so-called "chisel" tip which is a bit of a misnomer because they're rounded and blunt.
Heatshrink tubing placed over the toothed jaws of alligator clips will make it safer for holding wires that you are soldering together. Silicone tubing, or the woven fabric tubing that looks sort of like asbestos (it used to be known as Cambric tubing) is even better.
I was taught that a wet “sponge” is bad. Thermal shock for the tip, etc. Use a brass scourer. Cleans the tip, no thermals, never runs out of water, never goes scungy, prevents flying balls of solder.
@@Txyxy1 I heared that too but can't confirm it from personal experience. I keep the sponge damp, not wet and when cleaning the tip I only touch the tip for a fraction of a second. This also avoids having to wait for the tip to heat up again.
No se debe apoyar la punta del soldador en contacto con ningún disipador. Con eso estará fría en el momento de querer soldar. El soporte es sobre el cuerpo del soldador. Lo ideal es asegurar que los cables a soldar estén desoxidados (no con verdín del cobre humedecido) deben limpiarse con un paño y solvente (alcohol por ejemplo). La unión debe calentarse con el soldador y colocarle flux o resina a esta. Recién allí se aplicará estaño a la unión. Y sí, un poco de estaño en el soldador ayuda a transferir mejor el calor pero no debe fundir todo el estaño necesario para la unión sobre la punta.
Love the video, a lot of good info. Please correct me if I'm wrong, the use of a wet natural sponge with slots sliced in it for the tip to dip down into is the safest way to clean a soldering tip. The tip is coated with various metals, the sponge only removes the burned flux and solder. The pad shown is basically ScotchBrite not much different than sandpaper.
Proper soldering-tip cleaning sponges from back in the day were made with materials that didn't contain sulfur or chlorine compounds which would hasten oxidation of the tip; but nowadays when people buy soldering accessories on the internet direct from China or who knows where, they're probably just ordinary kitchen sponges, and although damp kitchen sponges will "work" for cleaning soldering iron tips, they may not be ideal. I suppose you could clean the tip while it's cold with a dry scotch-brite pad, but if you keep the tip clean and tinned while you're using it it really shouldn't ever need to have anything even mildly abrasive used on it. I don't even remember this video telling people to *wet* the kitchen scrub-sponge first! I've also seen videos where people saturate the sponge with so much water that it emits puffs of steam when they touch the solar and iron to it which can create stress fractures in the iron plating on the tip, damaging it and shortening it's life. I rarely use the wet sponge anymore, preferring the brass wool tip cleaner. I have some videos on my channel about cleaning connections before soldering, separating good quality tips from poor quality or counterfeit tips (which are all too common on the internet), and a review/teardown of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station and accessories (it's surprisingly good, way better than what I had to work with as an electronics-nerd teenager in the 1970s).
One thing you did, but didn't say; wet the bit, but apply the solder to the workpiece, not the bit. A wet bit has a surface that allows heat transfer to the workpiece, but you want the solder (and flux) on the workpiece, not the bit - otherwise the flux erodes the bit faster (rather than eroding oxides on the workpiece, ensuring a strong bond between solder and workpiece(s))
Wet the bit? With solder, or water? Ambiguous statement. As this person showed, hang solder on the bit to boil the paste on the workpiece, then apply more solder to the heat transfer point. Do this even when using rosin core.
@@topcatandgang, soldering iron tips are most definitely not plated with silver; they're plated with *iron*. Silver would quickly dissolve off of the tip and into the solder; iron will alloy with and "wet" to the solder sufficiently to enable a good heat transfer, but iron resists the dissolving effect of tin and flux. Good soldering iron tips are made of plated copper for efficient heat transfer, with iron plating at the pointy end and perhaps chrome or similar plating on the body of the tip so that solder will only wet to the business end of the tip. If your soldering tips are strongly magnetic from one end to the other then they're made of iron or steel and are of poor quality; there's a video on my channel about this.
A couple drops of flux on the wire before soldering really helps spread the heat out and wet the copper. Touch the iron to it for a few seconds and then add the solder and it will wick up in the wire beautifully, rather than balling up on the iron. It will happen quickly and reduce the chance of melting insulation. Clean off the flux with some alcohol or acetone afterwards.
Not sure about the last one... generally the advice out there is that you should heat up the elements you want to join together and then apply solder, not the other way around.
@@Repairman10169 Done fairly correct. Tip must be wet with tin to get heat transfer to the joint. Then solder applied to joint, not to tip. Maybe a little too much tin on the tip.
Great tips. My dad taught me years ago how to use an iron correctly. He used flux paste to get the solder to "move in" faster to the wire. I still have it today it works still. Also, another tip. When using heat shrink. No since in using a flame or torch to shrink it. Use the soldering iron shaft to heat the shrink tube. No more blistering or melted insulation. Just a nicely heat shrink tube over your fresh solder job. 😊👍
A hairdryer or heatgun is the best choice for shrinking the tubing because it shrinks it evenly all the way around. Using your soldering iron for this will work but the heat can't be applied as evenly, not as evenly, and it's possible to melt the heat shrink tubing in places. It should also be clarified to never use the *tip* of the soldering iron to shrink the tubing because even a smidgen of plastic residue left on the tip will be difficult to remove and make it harder for you to solder with it.
@@goodun2974 I did say to use the shaft. And on most applications, using a heat gun would be ok. Though on what I do with small wires for remote LED light switches in 3d prints the heat gun would heat the plastic too much. It could cause the item to warp or melt. Having direct heat in a small area would be better for delicate applications such as this. This is how I figured out this method. Because my butane torch was throwing out way too much heat to be used in these small plastic areas. I didn't want to risk damaging the item and having to 3d print another.
@@JAY-fq7sb , All valid points, although now that you've provided details it's obvious you're doing specialty soldering that is very different from splicing a couple of wires here as shown in the video! I was an audio repair bench tech for 20 years and I frequently had to upgrade incandescent lamps and bulbs in vintage receivers to LED's which sometimes required me to splice and heat shrink wires very very close to the tuner's dial string ---- One wrong move and the soldering iron would melt through that string in a nanosecond and then I'd have to restring the tuner, which is not something you'd ever want to do unless you absolutely had to (I've restring a radio or receiver two or three times in 50 years of electronics). I used a hot air pencil to shrink the tubing because it gave me a nice tightly controlled hot air pattern.
@@goodun2974 Yep, those small hot air pencils are nice. I don't a lot of wiring, but if I did. I definitely may check into getting one. I can identify with the thin wires. 🙂👍 I just have a few things I 3d print that I have to wire and those are not huge sellers.
All as per textbook. Really good. Except the title. Though the 92% who should see it, don't know difference between soldering and welding A common mistake is to hold one wire with your hand. Hand vibrations creates larger crystals when tin solidifies.Weaker bond, prone to fail. Another common mistake is applying more solder and heating too long time. Making tin creeping out in the wire. Makes a stranded wire stiff. Vibrations will break it. From soldering course attended before allowed to work on military spec equipment. Long time ago.
Also some instructions come with something like this: "Hold one wire with one hand and the other wire with another hand and the solder with another hand and the soldering iron with another hand", I don't know about you, but I run out of hands.
Fairly good tips. For high reliability joints the solder should not be allowed to wick up between the wire and insulation. A heat sink is not required on the tip for a good temperature regulated iron.
#6 you don't need over a cm of bared wire to make a joint. #7 don't hold the wire in a croc clip near to the joint, the insulation will melt and get damaged by the clip teeth (use something that grips less hard, or put paper in the clip jaws. #8 it makes life easier if you tin each part itself before joining as there is less to heat up "raw". #9 probably best not to let cut-off bits ping off, they might end up somewhere unfortunate (the vent of some mains equipment, your coffee, someone's nose)
I find soldering to be therapeutic. Before I got into aviation, and associated electronic components, I was a security alarm technician, and got to smell lots of rosin, LOL I am also a trained and certified Aircraft "solderer." 🙂 Your examples are pretty much "spot-on." Thanks for the video!
Ich beginne gerade damit, mich mit dem Löten zu beschäftigen. Und da ist dieses Video echt spitze! Was mir vor allem gefallen hat: Kein lautes Geschrei! Kein rumgefuchtel! Alles wäre auch ohne Untertitel zu verstehen. Und: ein chilliger Blues im Hintergrund! So macht Lernen per Video echt Freude! Danke dafür!
Thanks - I have some repair talents, but soldering has never been one of them - I've encountered most of the problems on here. I'll give these a try. 👍
I have never had that kind of luck soldering. Most of the time my soldering gun doesn't get hot enough and I have two supposedly good ones. thanks for the video.
Excellent video! I've made all those mistakes and more. Love the music too... reminds me of the Vince Guaraldi, Charlie Brown music of my youth. Subscribed.
The few times i tried to solder was in 1968. I didn’t know how to do it, no one was around to show me, and I failed by simply dripping the solder onto the connect wires. I haven’t tried since, but still watched this video to scratch that old itch.
Do you remember Bob Laughton? I worked with him in the stock exchange, but also remember him occasionally on Nantucket Blvd, where the equipment shop was. Last I heard from him was when I was in Edmonton on a call, but that was around 45 years ago.
Get a real soldering iron or a quality butane iron (they heat up fast) and keep turning off the iron inbetween soldering. I have solder tips from 8 years ago now with quite a few solder joints. If you do this for a living high production, of course you have an iron that shuts off when you put it in the holder and they heat up quickly. I like using the brass cleaning nest, avoid dealing with water and sponges. I always have flux on hand too and always use leaded solder which meets my needs splicing wires. My preferred joint is to free hand a lap joint after tinning both ends of the wire, free hand baby.
i use a wet sponge to clean off a flat tip, not a round tip. and i clean both sides at the same time otherwise one side will get black and ruin the connection. spending too much time heating the wire will in most cases melt the insulation also. i use a 50 watt iron for wires and a 40 watt iron for pc board hookups.
If one practices good tip hygiene overall, and never lets the iron sit there hot for hours without a protective coating of solder on the tip, use of the tinning block will be far and few between. I've been soldering electronics for 55 years; even as a full-time audio-equipment bench tech I only used the tinning block a couple times a week, and that thing will probably still be useable long after I'm dead and gone. From what I have read the tinning blocks are made with ammonium chloride, which is a strong alkali, and over-use of it will actually shorten the life of the tips. (PS, I posted some videos on my channel about prior preparations for soldering, the importance of using high quality soldering tips and how to weed out the cheapos and counterfeits (which are everywhere on line nowadays), and a review/tear down of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station that is a surprisingly good value for the money. )
@@topcatandgang , I used the wet sponge technique for some 40 years but switched over to the brass wool over a decade ago and I prefer it to the sponge. The cooling effect of the sponge may create stress microfractures according to some manufacturers. The sponge in the video is emitting steam when the iron touches it,, indicating that it is definitely too wet!
these are actually decent tips! the solder tip is usually a nickel plated steel, so aggressively wire brushing it or sanding it WILL remove the thin nickel layer, and make solder no longer stick to it!
It is as if you have watched me try to solder. Those are my hands in each scene that shows a red X. Thank you for posting this. I'm gonna go try some of those examples on my bench today.
Well done. one of the best soldering videos yet. TH-camrs must watch this most of you are mainly total rubbish when it comes to soldering, but they wont be watching as they think they are so good. They are not. If they were working for me on a bench they would not be. Dirty irons is the worst problem, old solder, incorrect temperature, heat soak, also. Some little things. Wipe the tip immediately before using. Not after, where it will sit and oxidise the tip. Oxidised tips do not transfer heat quickly. The heat should be applied quickly and not applied by a slow soak that a dirty or oxidised tip gives. Also put a little solder on the tip when turning the iron off. This will need a wipe off before the next job, but only when the iron is at working temperature. The flux is the bit that makes it work properly and flow, solder applied to the tip for to long prior to use will have the flux evaporated and will not flow leading to a soak heating and possible damage of the work as well as nasty stringing. Its all very simple once the routine is observed and followed and much quicker and cleaner solder jobs.
1000 % ! 👏👍 If the component lead, wire, terminal or circuit board pad is oxidized or greasy, you'll never get a good reliable connection. I have a video on my channel about using fiberglass-bristle "scratch brushes" and pencil erasers to clean metals before soldering to them, as well as a review/teardown of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station and accessories, and a video about cheap, poor-quality and counterfeit soldering-iron tips.
Anti-wicking tools are also available to prevent insulation damage. If using a wet sponge to clean the bit allow a few moments for the bit to reheat. As others have said hold the iron under the wire - much more efficient heat transfer. Removing old solder from the bit can be done without losing heat by tapping it fairly sharply under your bench. This is a big no-no, so forget I mentioned it - works great though, but... hey, never do it.
I would not rest my soldering iron tip on a heatsink I think I have many more years of soldering experience than you do my soldering irons have temperature-controlled tips the last thing I would want to do is rest one on a heat sink I worked at a company called tektronix for over 30 years
Nice video. I just don't understand how my mobile phone and TH-cam can predict these videos for me. I haven't soldered for a year, today I did. I just mentioned this once for my children. And voilà, Yt offers a video about it.
the part about oxidized copper explains so many poor joints I've had in the past... i fought with them until i "finally got it" (after i stripped more wire because i gooped it up too much)
There were a few issues with this video. Before soldering anything, you must first tin the wire, pins, ect. As it sounds you literally coat the wire ect in the layer of solder first, this helps to prevent dry joints and make soldering a lot easier. at 2:50 you twisted the strands of wire before tinning, never do this. It was a nice home made method for the cleaning sponge, although I can imagine it won't last long before melting, I don't know what the cost of the purpose designed ones are, but even if they're a little pricey the average person soldering at home won't wear them out in a few weeks like I do at work, so it would be worth the investment.
Sodder is what the Catholic priest and choir master get called, when having some fun with the under age boys in the choir in the nave of the church after choir practice. . . Solder (LD not DD) used to join wires together. Bit of a difference. One joins under age bung-holes to male genitals, the other fixes electrical issues.
And since heat rises, I try to do what you did here, but hold the soldering tip UNDER the wire. The wires warm from the tip's heat and it makes the flowing on the solder begin sooner.
For soldering joints like those in the video, it is better to use a chisel-shaped soldering tip. Because chisel-shaped soldering tips have a larger contact surface and heat the material faster and more efficiently.
You still make the common mistake of moving the Iron during the process, with clean tip and a little bit of fresh solder on the end, hold the iron on the centre of the joint/wire , keep everything DEAD STILL, give it a 3-10 seconds to heat the copper, then "paint" on the solder, starting near the iron working away from it .. without moving the iron at all, once you've "painted" the entire joint carefully remove the iron without disturbing the wires A key factor is to have the correct size tip and heat in the iron to transfer enough heat to the job so you can do the whole process quick
A friend who was an avionics engineer, who taught soldering in the army, told me to heat from underneath and place the solder above the wires you want to solder.
The only time I'm using flux is when soldering very heavy metal parts with thick solder wire which in my cause doesn't contain flux. It can also be useful for some desoldering / PCB cleanup jobs - but I'm quite certain if you have to ask about flux, you don't do that type of work.
Don't forget PASTE FLUX ! ! By dipping the twisted wire into paste flux, the wire can be tinned using less solder; too much solder can cause lesser quality solder joints. Paste flux is built into solder wire, and is useful in soldering copper pipes, too.
You were doing great until your last sentence. Plumber's flux is highly corrosive and should *NEVER* be used to solder electronics or electrical connections. Rosin flux (from pine trees) is the traditional flux contained within leaded solder, and can be purchased separately in paste or liquid form (in an alcohol solution). Rosin flux has the advantage of being relatively inert electrically and under most operating conditions is neither corrosive nor conductive; and can be cleaned off with alcohol. The fluxes contained within or sold separately for use with lead-free solder , however, are actually fairly corrosive and conductive, designed to dissolve in distilled water, and must be thoroughly removed from circuit boards or they can cause further problems down the road. The worst of all is plumbing flux; great for copper pipes but not for electronics! Unfortunately, there are lots of unscrupulous online sellers who lie about the chemical contents and purpose of the flux they sell. Never buy flux, solder or tips for your soldering iron from faceless online sellers, only from reputable US based distributors. It's important to note that experienced electronics technicians can sometimes get by with inferior equipment or materials because they know how a good solder joint is supposed to look and they have the experience and technique necessary to get acceptable results with less than ideal gear; but the newbie doesn't have that kind of experience and is likely to quickly become frustrated or suffer premature failure of their repair attempts or kit-build projects.
OK, now show us how you'd solder a surface mount chip, with over 100 pins, as I have done many times. 🙂 I learned how to solder properly in my grade 9 electricity class. Also, I have used the soldering stand sponge for cleaning the tip for over half a century. I kept a squeeze bottle of water on my workbench, just to keep it wet.
When you strip back to find fresh wire, dont remove the plastic all the way. Twist the plastic before removing, that way you don't contaminate the wire with grease from your fingers.
It's not "tin", it's solder *alloy*, alloyed with lead or other metals because pure tin is unstable. Lead is still the best stabilizing agent to add to tin in order to stabilize it for use as solder. (Church Organ pipes in northern Germany that had been soldered with pure tin hundreds of years ago suffered failures because the tin crystallized in cold weather; Google "tin pest").
It's preferable just to use fresh solder because the flux inside of old solder does sometimes degrade with age. It's important to use ONLY rosin flux for leaded electronics-rated solder, and not plumbers flux which is highly acidic and corrosive---- great for copper water pipes, but not for electronics use. Unscrupulous online sellers are known to sell corrosive plumbing flux to electronics hobbyists 😖😠.
#5, I’m not sure how many understood what you did. You will never get the wire hot enough to bond with the solder with the tip alone. He put a ball of fresh solder on the tip then used the more flexible ball of solder to transfer the heat to the wire. Once the wire is hot enough the solder bonds easily.
I never used a heatsink, never will. Other than that good tips. Once you have a good feel for working with solder you are ready for sweating copper pipe. I did just fine - even repairing my own radiator!
Also, the sponge is supposed to be squeezed out so it's merely damp and not very wet; I've seen videos where the sponge is so wet that the tip of the iron emits puffs of steam!
The brass wool is still a better tip cleaning choice and you can even buy them at harbor freight now. I did a review of an inexpensive Harbor Freight soldering station and related accessories on my channel recently ( It's surprisingly good and a hell of a value, way better than what I had to work with as an electronics nerd teenager back in the 1970s).
@lordphullautosear Yeah, neither is the gravel road I live on! It's the quenching of the moisture/temperature change that cleans the tip, not the abrasive!
yea, its not. nickel modern tips are plated which has mohs hardness of 4, copper 3, tin (pure) 1.5, eutectic solder slightly less, whilst hard nylon on such scrubber will be something like 2~2.5, about the hardness of fingernail. you will never ever damage even old type raw copper tip with it, not to mention modern plated one
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This video provides useful information on how to properly use a soldering kit. This reduces the number of people misusing and causing damage to the product. Videos can help viewers better understand the process and techniques for using the correct soldering kit to avoid common mistakes
He gave very precise and clear instructions, gave him 1 like
This is a good video, but I always find videos where the presenter remains mute to be kind of creepy. Still, I learned a couple things, so thumbs up.
47 years as a phone guy in a central office. I went through pounds of solder. When tinning a wire end or soldering a splice, always heat from the bottom and apply solder from the top if possible. Also, apply a coating of fresh solder to your iron's tip just before unplugging it. This way, your tip is nicely tinned when you heat it up and you'll be ready to solder right away.
Thanks for the feedback !!
My father worked for C&P/Bell Atlantic his whole life, and this is exactly how he taught me to solder! Iron under the wire, solder on top. I was soldering hobbyist circuit boards before I was in Middle School!
40 years in the CO here too!
@@stereodreamer23 I was going to ask why not hold the solder iron under the wire and add solder to the top. I have not soldered nearly as much as you I'm sure but that's how I do it. I also like to use a wider tip for larger wire as in the video.
My father was one too. He taught me to solder. He retired in 2005 as a COT.
Generally good advice but may I suggest that a small chisel tip is much more versatile and better suited to this type of soldering in terms of heat transfer. Secondly, apply the flat side of the tip to the underside of the wire (hot air rises) briefly touch the solder to the contact point between the wire and the tip to establish a thermal bridge, wait two seconds for the wire to heat up and then, and only then, apply solder to the top of the wire and let gravity pull it down. Also I like to work with a fairly hot iron which allows one to get in and out fast before melting the insulation.
Yes!, and use a small amount of electrical grade flux (rosin based, never acid) to the joint. The flux in the core is often not that effective. The old "Oatey" brand was great, not sure about today's products since the EPA and California are always "finding" a new carcinogen. I use dry Scotchbrite to clean the tip.
In my experience, the method he is using is perfect for small wire gauges and consider, when soldering electronic components, you must be sure you don't overheat the connectors or you fry the circuit in the chip or transistor. Wetting the tip with solder increases heat transfer and if you apply the solder to the other side of the heated wire or component, the solder will suck in toward the heat filling all gaps and you get a nice non-oxidized solder joint very rapidly so you can pull the heat away. I appreciate your experience with heavier wire and larger components requiring chisel tips and note that sometimes I sure should consider using one. I have not done much work with heavier gauge wire or components.
Correct!
Yes i agree with your tips ! Thanks for commenting!
Let me add one more detail that I think is important and that is to use a small diameter solder. I use 0.8 mm diameter solder with 2.0 % flux for all my soldering. The smaller diameter gives you greater control over the amount of solder being deposited and also reduces the amount of heat being sucked away while the joint is being made. I've also never felt the need to add additional flux. It's a light hearted bone of contention between me and my organ builder friend whom I accuse of using "plumbing" solder. (He's actually very skilled and our record of making cold solder joints is just about the same.)
"This video was really helpful! The information about 92% of people using soldering irons incorrectly helps people realize common mistakes. You communicated clearly and easily, helping viewers improve their soldering skills. Thank you for sharing valuable tips to help us use soldering irons more effectively! Looking forward to your next videos!"
Some more tips...
Use distilled water instead of tap water for your sponge to keep out minerals, chlorine and other contaminants.
Use a chisel tip for joining wires instead of a pencil tip for better heat transfer and solder flow. Pencil tips are mainly for soldering pins on circuit boards.
Pre-Tin each wire before joining the two wires in a splice for better penetration into the core of the solder joint.
Use no clean flux core solder. For best results in avoiding long-term corrosion, wash the joint of residual flux with alcohol afterward. Keep alcohol and flammable liquids AWAY from the hot soldering iron.
Cover the finished splice with shrink tube, add a toothpick or a q-tip core as a splint under the shrink tube to protect it from bending/breaking.
Great tips ! Thanks
コテを上から当てるのではなく、横から当てるイメージの方が熱が伝わり易いよ。固体でも熱は「上から下へ」よりも「下から上へ」の方が伝わり易い。それに、フラックスは酸化銅も清浄してくれる可能性が有る。フラックスを塗って置くのも事前処理の一つ。酸化してても撚線はちゃんと撚り直してからはんだ付けする（ハンダ量フラックス量を減らす意味も有る）。線材と線材をはんだ付けする時は、解して一緒に寄り直してから作業する事もある。コテ先にハンダを盛ってピンセットの先でハンダを馴染ませるように擦る（こする）と、コテ先の酸化物が取れ易いよ。後は温度設定・実温度は作業前に確認するのをお勧めします。コテ先が酸化して熱が伝わりにくいのも判る。
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Oil from fingers does not help adhesion either. NASA standard soldering requires 99% alcohol cleaning wipe down I believe. Or similar. Sure does not hurt if the connection is super important. Also abrasion of the wires for adhesion helps a stronger bond, right?
Lo importante es la limpieza previa de los cables a soldar. Luego es muy importante usar fundente antes de aplicar estaño. NO se debe confundir la convección del calor en el aire con el calentamiento por contacto de dos metales que están en contacto. Aquí NO importa lo que es arriba o abajo.
チョー気持ちいい👍🏻
昔、ラジコンカーやってたから”モーターの配線(メッキハンダ)”しまくってました(*^^*)
@@achernarscardozo69
You are right. In the case of a soldering iron that generates a small amount of heat relative to the target, the position of the iron up or down can have an effect, but in that case, we should use a soldering iron that generates an appropriate amount of heat and prioritize ease of use.
Additional flux is helpful. Once when working on an vintage car the wire was heavily tarnished and the soldier wouldn’t flow well. I applied paste flux and heated it and wiped it off several times. When the wire was shiny the solder flowed like it should.
My normal practice is to dip the wire into paste flux and wipe off the excess. This assures that the solder flows well. The electrical guy at work uses liquid flux and gets nice joints.
Hi, thanks for the feedback 👍
News flash... Modern soldering irons regulate the temperature so they don't overheat. Resting it on a heatsink just makes it use more power
And if someone tries the heatsink "trick" shown here with a non temperature-regulated soldering iron, when you pick up the iron you'll have to wait longer for the tip to heat fully so that it can melt solder effectively.
Yes that´s true, thx for commenting !
Agreed. Also aluminum can contaminate solder resulting in a poor joint, another reason not to rest iron on aluminum.
just use a stand.
@@EdWeibe never seen a stand with a heat sink like shown in this Video though.
With my stand, the tip of the soldering iron just floats in the air. Same for every other srna die saw in my life.
There MAY be flux inside the core of solder wire, BUT, you need to apply flux paste to the joint for BEST results, AND, always clean burnt flux OFF OF the solder joint once it has cooled. This has been a NASA Spec trained solderer, soldering tip PSA.
Thanks for your feedback !
Not when soldering electronics.
Wir arbeiten bzw. löten nach; Das ist Norm, weltbekannt als DIN.
Comment also approved by a certified aircraft electronics technician. Ignore the comment from r6u356une56ney.
@@r6u356une56neyyes when soldering electronics, Especially as modern components have Steel not copper leads,
Oh and use 60/40 Tin Lead solder if you want good results.
Very informative yet concise. Soldering has always been hit and miss for me, but I expect you video will improve my success. Also, I have to add that one of the best things about your video that sets it apart from nearly any other instructional video (regardless of the subject matter) is your format. Big plus is NO TALKING! Nice light music, clear close-up demonstration of Dos and Don'ts, backed up with just the right amount of text. Completely avoids the mistakes most TH-camrs make in instructional videos....which are: way much talking, too little instructing, bad camera work, and bad editing. THANK YOU and WELL DONE!
Glad you liked ! thx
I wouldn’t have used the green side of the sponge. Alligator clips can damage the insulation. Don’t use a pointed tip when soldering larger components. Pull the iron back when you quit applying solder. Don’t continue to heat the solder. I give this video a rating of 3 on a scale of 5.
Thanks for the feedback !! I give your tips a rating 0f 3 out of 6.
@@Repairman10169, I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years and the person who begn this comment thread is correct. You can see the teeth marks in the insulation of the wire from the alligator clip and they only get worse when you solder the copper and the heat travels up the copper to soften the insulation. Also, The use of a heat sink to cool the tip down when you're not soldering means that you will have to hold the iron in your hand and let the tip come back up to temperature when you lift it out of the holder in order to solder something. It's better to use a solder station with adjustable temperature and you can just turn it down a little bit when you're not using the iron and then turn it back up to use it again.
@@Repairman10169, ps, I see steam come off of the sponge the first time you touch the tip to it which means that the sponge is too wet. Sponges designed specifically for cleaning sottering tips are supposed to be made with materials that don't contain corrosive compounds such as sulfur or chlorine although if you buy soldering accessories from Amazon or directly from China you get what you get and it may not be high quality. I switched to using the brass wool tip cleaners a decade ago and I find them more effective than the sponge, and I've also seen manufacturers claim that the use of the sponge creates stress fractures in the plating on the tip and shortens tip life. I have also found that buying soldering tips from Amazon or flea Bay or China typically gets you tips that are made of iron or steel throughout from one end to the other and these will provide poor heat transfer. High quality tips should be made from copper that is plated at the pointy end with iron because iron will resist the dissolving effects of solder and flux much better than bare copper which is quickly oxidized and eaten away. If your tips are strongly magnetic throughout from one end to the other then they are likely made of iron or steel, not copper and will give poor performance. ( There's a video on my channel about using a magnet to separate good tips from bad tips). The rest of the tip body might be plated with Chrome or something similar that resists the application of solder. Finally I generally dislike the conical tips that are provided as "standard" with most soldering irons and usually upgrade them to a so-called "chisel" tip which is a bit of a misnomer because they're rounded and blunt.
Heatshrink tubing placed over the toothed jaws of alligator clips will make it safer for holding wires that you are soldering together. Silicone tubing, or the woven fabric tubing that looks sort of like asbestos (it used to be known as Cambric tubing) is even better.
Don't use any of the cheap, makeshift equipment in this video. Buy the proper tools!
I was taught that a wet “sponge” is bad. Thermal shock for the tip, etc. Use a brass scourer. Cleans the tip, no thermals, never runs out of water, never goes scungy, prevents flying balls of solder.
It is true, sponge is bad for the tip. It significantly shortens its life.
@@Txyxy1 I heared that too but can't confirm it from personal experience. I keep the sponge damp, not wet and when cleaning the tip I only touch the tip for a fraction of a second. This also avoids having to wait for the tip to heat up again.
No se debe apoyar la punta del soldador en contacto con ningún disipador. Con eso estará fría en el momento de querer soldar. El soporte es sobre el cuerpo del soldador. Lo ideal es asegurar que los cables a soldar estén desoxidados (no con verdín del cobre humedecido) deben limpiarse con un paño y solvente (alcohol por ejemplo). La unión debe calentarse con el soldador y colocarle flux o resina a esta. Recién allí se aplicará estaño a la unión. Y sí, un poco de estaño en el soldador ayuda a transferir mejor el calor pero no debe fundir todo el estaño necesario para la unión sobre la punta.
Love the video, a lot of good info. Please correct me if I'm wrong, the use of a wet natural sponge with slots sliced in it for the tip to dip down into is the safest way to clean a soldering tip. The tip is coated with various metals, the sponge only removes the burned flux and solder. The pad shown is basically ScotchBrite not much different than sandpaper.
Proper soldering-tip cleaning sponges from back in the day were made with materials that didn't contain sulfur or chlorine compounds which would hasten oxidation of the tip; but nowadays when people buy soldering accessories on the internet direct from China or who knows where, they're probably just ordinary kitchen sponges, and although damp kitchen sponges will "work" for cleaning soldering iron tips, they may not be ideal. I suppose you could clean the tip while it's cold with a dry scotch-brite pad, but if you keep the tip clean and tinned while you're using it it really shouldn't ever need to have anything even mildly abrasive used on it. I don't even remember this video telling people to *wet* the kitchen scrub-sponge first! I've also seen videos where people saturate the sponge with so much water that it emits puffs of steam when they touch the solar and iron to it which can create stress fractures in the iron plating on the tip, damaging it and shortening it's life. I rarely use the wet sponge anymore, preferring the brass wool tip cleaner. I have some videos on my channel about cleaning connections before soldering, separating good quality tips from poor quality or counterfeit tips (which are all too common on the internet), and a review/teardown of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station and accessories (it's surprisingly good, way better than what I had to work with as an electronics-nerd teenager in the 1970s).
One thing you did, but didn't say; wet the bit, but apply the solder to the workpiece, not the bit. A wet bit has a surface that allows heat transfer to the workpiece, but you want the solder (and flux) on the workpiece, not the bit - otherwise the flux erodes the bit faster (rather than eroding oxides on the workpiece, ensuring a strong bond between solder and workpiece(s))
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Wet the bit? With solder, or water? Ambiguous statement. As this person showed, hang solder on the bit to boil the paste on the workpiece, then apply more solder to the heat transfer point. Do this even when using rosin core.
the best tips have a silver coating to keep the tip from oxidizing.
@@topcatandgang That is something I never encountered, but since silver has a higher melting point, this sounds awesome.
@@topcatandgang, soldering iron tips are most definitely not plated with silver; they're plated with *iron*. Silver would quickly dissolve off of the tip and into the solder; iron will alloy with and "wet" to the solder sufficiently to enable a good heat transfer, but iron resists the dissolving effect of tin and flux. Good soldering iron tips are made of plated copper for efficient heat transfer, with iron plating at the pointy end and perhaps chrome or similar plating on the body of the tip so that solder will only wet to the business end of the tip. If your soldering tips are strongly magnetic from one end to the other then they're made of iron or steel and are of poor quality; there's a video on my channel about this.
A couple drops of flux on the wire before soldering really helps spread the heat out and wet the copper. Touch the iron to it for a few seconds and then add the solder and it will wick up in the wire beautifully, rather than balling up on the iron. It will happen quickly and reduce the chance of melting insulation. Clean off the flux with some alcohol or acetone afterwards.
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Out of those 92% I'm probably 90%. I really SUCK at soldering iron use and even more so at maintenance. This was VERY illuminating, so big thanks!
Glad it helps 👍 thanks 👋
Not sure about the last one... generally the advice out there is that you should heat up the elements you want to join together and then apply solder, not the other way around.
Yes, thats correct. Thanks for watching 👍👋
@@Repairman10169 Done fairly correct. Tip must be wet with tin to get heat transfer to the joint. Then solder applied to joint, not to tip.
Maybe a little too much tin on the tip.
必要十分にはんだ付け部分が加熱されているのなら、はんだごてを動かさなくても自然にはんだはまわります。この動画こそシロウトが間違ったことを教えている動画。
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Great tips. My dad taught me years ago how to use an iron correctly. He used flux paste to get the solder to "move in" faster to the wire. I still have it today it works still.
Also, another tip. When using heat shrink. No since in using a flame or torch to shrink it. Use the soldering iron shaft to heat the shrink tube. No more blistering or melted insulation. Just a nicely heat shrink tube over your fresh solder job. 😊👍
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A hairdryer or heatgun is the best choice for shrinking the tubing because it shrinks it evenly all the way around. Using your soldering iron for this will work but the heat can't be applied as evenly, not as evenly, and it's possible to melt the heat shrink tubing in places. It should also be clarified to never use the *tip* of the soldering iron to shrink the tubing because even a smidgen of plastic residue left on the tip will be difficult to remove and make it harder for you to solder with it.
@@goodun2974 I did say to use the shaft. And on most applications, using a heat gun would be ok. Though on what I do with small wires for remote LED light switches in 3d prints the heat gun would heat the plastic too much. It could cause the item to warp or melt. Having direct heat in a small area would be better for delicate applications such as this. This is how I figured out this method. Because my butane torch was throwing out way too much heat to be used in these small plastic areas. I didn't want to risk damaging the item and having to 3d print another.
@@JAY-fq7sb , All valid points, although now that you've provided details it's obvious you're doing specialty soldering that is very different from splicing a couple of wires here as shown in the video! I was an audio repair bench tech for 20 years and I frequently had to upgrade incandescent lamps and bulbs in vintage receivers to LED's which sometimes required me to splice and heat shrink wires very very close to the tuner's dial string ---- One wrong move and the soldering iron would melt through that string in a nanosecond and then I'd have to restring the tuner, which is not something you'd ever want to do unless you absolutely had to (I've restring a radio or receiver two or three times in 50 years of electronics). I used a hot air pencil to shrink the tubing because it gave me a nice tightly controlled hot air pattern.
@@goodun2974 Yep, those small hot air pencils are nice. I don't a lot of wiring, but if I did. I definitely may check into getting one. I can identify with the thin wires. 🙂👍 I just have a few things I 3d print that I have to wire and those are not huge sellers.
All as per textbook. Really good. Except the title. Though the 92% who should see it, don't know difference between soldering and welding
A common mistake is to hold one wire with your hand. Hand vibrations creates larger crystals when tin solidifies.Weaker bond, prone to fail.
Another common mistake is applying more solder and heating too long time. Making tin creeping out in the wire. Makes a stranded wire stiff. Vibrations will break it.
From soldering course attended before allowed to work on military spec equipment. Long time ago.
Great 👍 thanks for your feedback,👍👋👋
Also some instructions come with something like this: "Hold one wire with one hand and the other wire with another hand and the solder with another hand and the soldering iron with another hand", I don't know about you, but I run out of hands.
Now i see all my errors! This helped a whole lot. Now i can solder with a bit more confidence
Thanks 👍
Fairly good tips. For high reliability joints the solder should not be allowed to wick up between the wire and insulation. A heat sink is not required on the tip for a good temperature regulated iron.
Right ! thx for commenting !
#6 you don't need over a cm of bared wire to make a joint. #7 don't hold the wire in a croc clip near to the joint, the insulation will melt and get damaged by the clip teeth (use something that grips less hard, or put paper in the clip jaws. #8 it makes life easier if you tin each part itself before joining as there is less to heat up "raw". #9 probably best not to let cut-off bits ping off, they might end up somewhere unfortunate (the vent of some mains equipment, your coffee, someone's nose)
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Great video! Soldering isn't as simple as people think.
One thing, for bigger items to solder we need to make sure it's hot, then apply solder
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I learned more about soldering in this short video than all of the other ones that I have watched. Thank you - the principles are now clear.
Glad it was useful and thx for watching !
Watch more, this video gives terrible advice.
@@kydelastra I watched the whole video. Please point out the poor advice, in your experience.
Dios lo bendiga por compartir su conocimiento.!!
¡Que Dios te bendiga también!
I find soldering to be therapeutic. Before I got into aviation, and associated electronic components, I was a security alarm technician, and got to smell lots of rosin, LOL I am also a trained and certified Aircraft "solderer." 🙂 Your examples are pretty much "spot-on." Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching and commenting !
Ich beginne gerade damit, mich mit dem Löten zu beschäftigen.
Und da ist dieses Video echt spitze!
Was mir vor allem gefallen hat: Kein lautes Geschrei! Kein rumgefuchtel! Alles wäre auch ohne Untertitel zu verstehen. Und: ein chilliger Blues im Hintergrund!
So macht Lernen per Video echt Freude!
Danke dafür!
Thanks - I have some repair talents, but soldering has never been one of them - I've encountered most of the problems on here. I'll give these a try. 👍
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Your sharing is great, the soldering iron I used had a black tip, which made it impossible for me to use it anymore. I will apply your method
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the best solder joint is one that you see every strand of wire joined together, not hidden under a mass supply of soldier.
Yes right ! Thanks for watching !
Thanks - Ill try the sponge trick.... I just use my spring like holder.... but was pleased to see everything else I do pretty much confirmed - thanks!
thanks for watching !
Your work is as beautiful as your music. Nice demo. Thank you!
Glad You liked and thanks for watching 👍👋
Thank you old timer! The only part I disagree with is the wet sponge. I use preferably brass or copper wool :D
Yes brass wool is preferable.. thanks for watching !
I have never had that kind of luck soldering. Most of the time my soldering gun doesn't get hot enough and I have two supposedly good ones. thanks for the video.
Excellent video! I've made all those mistakes and more. Love the music too... reminds me of the Vince Guaraldi, Charlie Brown music of my youth. Subscribed.
Glad you found it helpful!🙏👋
The few times i tried to solder was in 1968. I didn’t know how to do it, no one was around to show me, and I failed by simply dripping the solder onto the connect wires. I haven’t tried since, but still watched this video to scratch that old itch.
Do you remember Bob Laughton? I worked with him in the stock exchange, but also remember him occasionally on Nantucket Blvd, where the equipment shop was. Last I heard from him was when I was in Edmonton on a call, but that was around 45 years ago.
I found this video informative and easy to follow. Top marks!
Thanks for watching !
Un grand merci j' ai nettement amélioré mes soudures 🙏🙏
Merci 🙏
Get a real soldering iron or a quality butane iron (they heat up fast) and keep turning off the iron inbetween soldering. I have solder tips from 8 years ago now with quite a few solder joints. If you do this for a living high production, of course you have an iron that shuts off when you put it in the holder and they heat up quickly. I like using the brass cleaning nest, avoid dealing with water and sponges. I always have flux on hand too and always use leaded solder which meets my needs splicing wires. My preferred joint is to free hand a lap joint after tinning both ends of the wire, free hand baby.
Use a tinning block to clean the tip and it works perfectly. Have used the same block for over 20 years.
i use a wet sponge to clean off a flat tip, not a round tip. and i clean both sides at the same time otherwise one side will get black and ruin the connection. spending too much time heating the wire will in most cases melt the insulation also. i use a 50 watt iron for wires and a 40 watt iron for pc board hookups.
If one practices good tip hygiene overall, and never lets the iron sit there hot for hours without a protective coating of solder on the tip, use of the tinning block will be far and few between. I've been soldering electronics for 55 years; even as a full-time audio-equipment bench tech I only used the tinning block a couple times a week, and that thing will probably still be useable long after I'm dead and gone. From what I have read the tinning blocks are made with ammonium chloride, which is a strong alkali, and over-use of it will actually shorten the life of the tips. (PS, I posted some videos on my channel about prior preparations for soldering, the importance of using high quality soldering tips and how to weed out the cheapos and counterfeits (which are everywhere on line nowadays), and a review/tear down of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station that is a surprisingly good value for the money. )
@@topcatandgang , I used the wet sponge technique for some 40 years but switched over to the brass wool over a decade ago and I prefer it to the sponge. The cooling effect of the sponge may create stress microfractures according to some manufacturers. The sponge in the video is emitting steam when the iron touches it,, indicating that it is definitely too wet!
I’ve used a damp sponge for decades and never seen any problems. Wipe then dip into a tinning block keeps the tip nice and shiny.
these are actually decent tips! the solder tip is usually a nickel plated steel, so aggressively wire brushing it or sanding it WILL remove the thin nickel layer, and make solder no longer stick to it!
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Best concise video on the subject. Saved under favorites.
Glad You liked 👍 thanks for watching 👋
It is as if you have watched me try to solder. Those are my hands in each scene that shows a red X. Thank you for posting this. I'm gonna go try some of those examples on my bench today.
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Well done. one of the best soldering videos yet. TH-camrs must watch this most of you are mainly total rubbish when it comes to soldering, but they wont be watching as they think they are so good. They are not. If they were working for me on a bench they would not be. Dirty irons is the worst problem, old solder, incorrect temperature, heat soak, also.
Some little things. Wipe the tip immediately before using. Not after, where it will sit and oxidise the tip. Oxidised tips do not transfer heat quickly. The heat should be applied quickly and not applied by a slow soak that a dirty or oxidised tip gives. Also put a little solder on the tip when turning the iron off. This will need a wipe off before the next job, but only when the iron is at working temperature. The flux is the bit that makes it work properly and flow, solder applied to the tip for to long prior to use will have the flux evaporated and will not flow leading to a soak heating and possible damage of the work as well as nasty stringing.
Its all very simple once the routine is observed and followed and much quicker and cleaner solder jobs.
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I new that you were supposed to heat up the copper and have the solder flow into it, but it always took forever. Now I know what to do. Thanks.
Glad it helped !
Gracias por compartir tu experiencia !! 👍👍
Gracias a ti por ver ! Saludos !
£ tips for soldering. Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness.
1000 % ! 👏👍 If the component lead, wire, terminal or circuit board pad is oxidized or greasy, you'll never get a good reliable connection. I have a video on my channel about using fiberglass-bristle "scratch brushes" and pencil erasers to clean metals before soldering to them, as well as a review/teardown of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station and accessories, and a video about cheap, poor-quality and counterfeit soldering-iron tips.
Anti-wicking tools are also available to prevent insulation damage. If using a wet sponge to clean the bit allow a few moments for the bit to reheat. As others have said hold the iron under the wire - much more efficient heat transfer. Removing old solder from the bit can be done without losing heat by tapping it fairly sharply under your bench. This is a big no-no, so forget I mentioned it - works great though, but... hey, never do it.
I would not rest my soldering iron tip on a heatsink I think I have many more years of soldering experience than you do my soldering irons have temperature-controlled tips the last thing I would want to do is rest one on a heat sink I worked at a company called tektronix for over 30 years
Rank amateur soldering skills
Nice video. I just don't understand how my mobile phone and TH-cam can predict these videos for me. I haven't soldered for a year, today I did. I just mentioned this once for my children. And voilà, Yt offers a video about it.
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Your phone is listening to you. My iPhone doesn’t seem to do this. My S/O’s Android definitely listens.
here iam a newbie always thinking why my 2 year old solder doesnt stick to my dull looking copper wire, thanks for clearing the doubts..
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Useful. Will try the scourer method...
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Extremely interesting ! Thanks 👍
Thank you for sharing. These were useful tips.
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WTF. I can't believe how long I've been doing it wrong. Thank you!
How old are you? 70ish? Its great to see you enjoying your hobby and active with a youtube channel. Good job!
Hi.. well.. not that old but yep i enjoy the hooby . thanks for watching!!
Thank you. I’ve struggled to do this correctly
Thanks 👍
Thank you very much! Great tips ⛓️💥
Thanks for watching 👍👋
Bom trabalho e boas ideias. Good Idea.
Obrigado !
Sehr informatives Video. Vielen Dank.👍Weisst Du warum der Lötkolben von Parkside(Lidl) nicht funktioniert? Habe mir jetzt einen anderen geholt.
the part about oxidized copper explains so many poor joints I've had in the past... i fought with them until i "finally got it" (after i stripped more wire because i gooped it up too much)
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Merci j'ai appris des choses, ça va me servir !
...good to know 🤓 and the comments allso be helpful 😎 THX ...
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There were a few issues with this video. Before soldering anything, you must first tin the wire, pins, ect. As it sounds you literally coat the wire ect in the layer of solder first, this helps to prevent dry joints and make soldering a lot easier. at 2:50 you twisted the strands of wire before tinning, never do this.
It was a nice home made method for the cleaning sponge, although I can imagine it won't last long before melting, I don't know what the cost of the purpose designed ones are, but even if they're a little pricey the average person soldering at home won't wear them out in a few weeks like I do at work, so it would be worth the investment.
Nicely presented tutorial.
Glad you liked !
I am grateful that you didn't use a power tool for that one screw.
Thank you so much
this video very helped me
Thanks 👍
I did solder with 25 years old tin. It was kinda difficult but I did it eventually.
BIG MISTAKE! Never touch the inner cores with your bare fingers, your skin will transfer oil which could prevent the solder flowing correctly.
Great tip ! thanks
Learnt, very smart thanks sharing
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thanks for the video. I'm an expert now.
News flash: the word is solder, not sodder. 😢
Fantastic. I get so sick of them saying Soddering.
IPC videos do the same.
And why no flux ?
@@farkelrysunhope6339 It’s within the solder itself..
I once tried to buy a soldering iron in the USA. The man in the shop didn't know what I was talking about until I called it a soddering iron.
Sodder is what the Catholic priest and choir master get called, when having some fun with the under age boys in the choir in the nave of the church after choir practice. . .
Solder (LD not DD) used to join wires together. Bit of a difference. One joins under age bung-holes to male genitals, the other fixes electrical issues.
And since heat rises, I try to do what you did here, but hold the soldering tip UNDER the wire. The wires warm from the tip's heat and it makes the flowing on the solder begin sooner.
For soldering joints like those in the video, it is better to use a chisel-shaped soldering tip. Because chisel-shaped soldering tips have a larger contact surface and heat the material faster and more efficiently.
Vielen Dank. 👍 Jetzt weiß ich, dass bei meinen Lötarbeiten in der Vergangenheit so einiges falsch war 😂
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Thanķs to your video, i am no longer part of the 92% who do it wrong! Thank you!
Thanks for watching !
That brings up my question: How do we know the number is 92%?
You still make the common mistake of moving the Iron during the process, with clean tip and a little bit of fresh solder on the end, hold the iron on the centre of the joint/wire , keep everything DEAD STILL, give it a 3-10 seconds to heat the copper, then "paint" on the solder, starting near the iron working away from it .. without moving the iron at all, once you've "painted" the entire joint carefully remove the iron without disturbing the wires
A key factor is to have the correct size tip and heat in the iron to transfer enough heat to the job so you can do the whole process quick
A lot of people seem to treat it like hot glue, to be wiped onto the wires!
Right, thanks for watching 👍👍
A friend who was an avionics engineer, who taught soldering in the army, told me to heat from underneath and place the solder above the wires you want to solder.
Thats correct 👍👋
Every time I watch your videos, I'm inspired to scale new creative summits. Grateful for your inspiring productions!
there was no mention of the use of flux, can you explain how and when to use it?
Using good quality solder wire no needs to use extra flux, it is inside solder wire.
The only time I'm using flux is when soldering very heavy metal parts with thick solder wire which in my cause doesn't contain flux. It can also be useful for some desoldering / PCB cleanup jobs - but I'm quite certain if you have to ask about flux, you don't do that type of work.
Don't forget PASTE FLUX ! ! By dipping the twisted wire into paste flux, the wire can be tinned using less solder; too much solder can cause lesser quality solder joints. Paste flux is built into solder wire, and is useful in soldering copper pipes, too.
You were doing great until your last sentence. Plumber's flux is highly corrosive and should *NEVER* be used to solder electronics or electrical connections. Rosin flux (from pine trees) is the traditional flux contained within leaded solder, and can be purchased separately in paste or liquid form (in an alcohol solution). Rosin flux has the advantage of being relatively inert electrically and under most operating conditions is neither corrosive nor conductive; and can be cleaned off with alcohol. The fluxes contained within or sold separately for use with lead-free solder , however, are actually fairly corrosive and conductive, designed to dissolve in distilled water, and must be thoroughly removed from circuit boards or they can cause further problems down the road. The worst of all is plumbing flux; great for copper pipes but not for electronics! Unfortunately, there are lots of unscrupulous online sellers who lie about the chemical contents and purpose of the flux they sell. Never buy flux, solder or tips for your soldering iron from faceless online sellers, only from reputable US based distributors. It's important to note that experienced electronics technicians can sometimes get by with inferior equipment or materials because they know how a good solder joint is supposed to look and they have the experience and technique necessary to get acceptable results with less than ideal gear; but the newbie doesn't have that kind of experience and is likely to quickly become frustrated or suffer premature failure of their repair attempts or kit-build projects.
OK, now show us how you'd solder a surface mount chip, with over 100 pins, as I have done many times. 🙂
I learned how to solder properly in my grade 9 electricity class. Also, I have used the soldering stand sponge for cleaning the tip for over half a century. I kept a squeeze bottle of water on my workbench, just to keep it wet.
When you strip back to find fresh wire, dont remove the plastic all the way. Twist the plastic before removing, that way you don't contaminate the wire with grease from your fingers.
muchas gracias .
Gracias por comentar
Sehr informatives Video
Informatieve en duidelijke video met simpele middelen.
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2:06 Tip: Putting a little solder on the iron helps with heat transfer from the iron to the joint, but it has to be fresh solder as stated in the vid.
exactly great tip 👍 Thanks !
good idea
U can use old tin if you use paste...
Yes !
It's not "tin", it's solder *alloy*, alloyed with lead or other metals because pure tin is unstable. Lead is still the best stabilizing agent to add to tin in order to stabilize it for use as solder. (Church Organ pipes in northern Germany that had been soldered with pure tin hundreds of years ago suffered failures because the tin crystallized in cold weather; Google "tin pest").
It's preferable just to use fresh solder because the flux inside of old solder does sometimes degrade with age. It's important to use ONLY rosin flux for leaded electronics-rated solder, and not plumbers flux which is highly acidic and corrosive---- great for copper water pipes, but not for electronics use. Unscrupulous online sellers are known to sell corrosive plumbing flux to electronics hobbyists 😖😠.
#5, I’m not sure how many understood what you did.
You will never get the wire hot enough to bond with the solder with the tip alone. He put a ball of fresh solder on the tip then used the more flexible ball of solder to transfer the heat to the wire. Once the wire is hot enough the solder bonds easily.
Yes 100% correct. Thanks for the explanation !!
La potencia del soldador debe ser acorde a los conductores a soldar.
Sehr gut,hab was dazugelernt
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I never used a heatsink, never will. Other than that good tips. Once you have a good feel for working with solder you are ready for sweating copper pipe. I did just fine - even repairing my own radiator!
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Great ideas! Thanks for share
Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching 👍👋
知ってる！ってコメしようとしましたが当たり前ができていなくなぜダメかの説明もあり感動しました
Cut and wet the pad, but turn the green part over, it's abrasive like sand paper!
Also, the sponge is supposed to be squeezed out so it's merely damp and not very wet; I've seen videos where the sponge is so wet that the tip of the iron emits puffs of steam!
The brass wool is still a better tip cleaning choice and you can even buy them at harbor freight now. I did a review of an inexpensive Harbor Freight soldering station and related accessories on my channel recently ( It's surprisingly good and a hell of a value, way better than what I had to work with as an electronics nerd teenager back in the 1970s).
That green wannabe scotchbrite on dish scrubbers isn't very abrasive at all.
@lordphullautosear Yeah, neither is the gravel road I live on! It's the quenching of the moisture/temperature change that cleans the tip, not the abrasive!
yea, its not. nickel modern tips are plated which has mohs hardness of 4, copper 3, tin (pure) 1.5, eutectic solder slightly less, whilst hard nylon on such scrubber will be something like 2~2.5, about the hardness of fingernail. you will never ever damage even old type raw copper tip with it, not to mention modern plated one