Note: To shrink the film tight with a hair dryer like Window Insulation Shrink Kits, I'd suggest 1.0 or 1.5 mil film. The 3 mil polyester film I use is a little wavy but not wrinkled, so a hair dryer isn't necessary. The 3 mil is too thick to shrink with a hair dryer, and a heat gun will melt holes if you're not careful.
@@drencrum Good question. It's primarily the air spaces that provide the insulation. The thickness of the film may make a small difference, but not much - I have not found any data on that. More important is to have air spaces between 1/2" and 3/4". Much more than that and you get convection currents that transfer heat. A thicker film will reduce sound transfer though, if noise is a concern.
12 minutes and 45 seconds of high density information. No frills or filler. Good information, great delivery, answers all questions. Pack it in folks, this is the winner on the topic. Very good job, sir!
Thanks so much for the compliment. This video was 2 years in the making, shot over 300 video clips and spent several weeks editing. Hoping it really helps people save energy on heating.
Im so excited to try this. You’ve made it clear and simple. Even nonwoodworkers can do this! For about $35 per window I will save enough in one year to pay myself back. THANK YOU
Thank you for the comprehensive video, I’ve watched a lot of them and yours is by far the most succinct. Love your idea of using Mylar, it looks absolutely crystal clear and the thicker weight will last more than one season. Also, never thought about using two layers of film, this is brilliant because it exponentially increases the insulation value for a small amount of extra effort and material cost.
I made mine with pvc trim and duck brand max shrink plastic window kits, supposedly 1.5 mil. I really like the idea of polyester film, wish I'd thought of that. Great idea, thanks man
I'm thrilled to get started on a few windows for my house! Happy to support you by purchasing your recommendations via your links. I appreciate the exceptional video!
Thank you. This is one of the best videos on this topic I’ve watched so far. Hoping to help my daughter make these for her house. Possibly looking at using Mylar or something similar. Live in Texas - so might use year round. Cut heat in summer and cold in winter. Thanks again
Glad it was helpful! For keeping the heat out in summer, also be sure to have some external shading, like awnings or solar screens, to block the sun before it shines through the window. I plan to do a video on that next spring.
Thanks for this - this is the most comprehensive video out there! Questions - how long do the films last when directly applied to the window frames? And do they remove the paint? Also, is all mylar the same? Thanks!
The 3 mil film should still last 30+ years taped directly inside a window frame. A thinner .75 to 1.5 mil shrink film may not last as long. It's possible the tape can come loose sooner depending on the quality of tape and surface you tape it to. The 1/2" tape with red backing from ePlastics (link in video description) is very good. If you have good quality paint, you can likely peel, scrape or rub the tape off like rubber cement without damaging the paint. The 3 mil clear polyester films I've gotten from ePlastics and Grafix Dura-Lar from Amazon were both equally good. Some reviews for shrink film kits said the clarity of the .75 and 1.5 shrink films varied. They come folded up so shrinking with a hair dryer is needed to get rid of the wrinkles, while the films I've gotten came smooth on a roll.
Thank you so much for sharing this! Our house has a screen room with 4 track windows. It's great May-Sept but the vinyl has no r-value to speak of. It just keeps the wind out. I got quotes for putting in proper glass windows and that's way out of our budget. This seems like a good way to extend how long we can use the porch.
I went with 12 mil vinyl for my inserts for high durability, but they are also covering 123 year old single pane wavy glass, so optical distortions from it aren't a problem. I think the vinyl also provides some sound attenuation as well, but I have not measured it.
Glad you appreciate it! This video was 21 months in the making, about 200 hours editing, from 340 clips I shot down to 94, plus 124 titles. The subject is dear to my heart, since these storm windows have made a huge difference in having a warm house, and not enough people know about them. I love the way they look, and could save the world significant amounts of energy.
Great video, many thanks! Already made the frame with shrink film. One question, I'm looking for an alternative to the polyster film which I can get in Europe as the provided links does not ship to Europe. How does .003 inch translate to 3 milimeters? according to my calculations 0.003 * 25.4 = 0.0762 milimeter?
The phrase "3 mil" refers to 3 Thousandths of an inch, not to millimeters. Especially in North America, the word "mil" refers to 1/1000 of an inch. So yes, 3 mil plastic is 0.0762 millimeters thick.
I have problems in my bedroom with sunlight and streetlights. It gets very bright and it’s not very dark. I’m trying find ways to make it better for sleeping. This plastic will will be ideal in the summer heat and winter cold in NY. I’ve seen other ways to make it black out. I wonder if this could be used with plastic that is black to block out light? Any idea about black plastic?
You could use any plastic. I've seen tinted mylar (polyester film) with a reflective surface on one side, which you could face out, so you could still see through it, but it would be much darker. Black plastic would give you total blackness. It's usually polyethylene, and comes in 3 - 10 mil. Not sure if it would last as long as polyester, but you'd still get the heat saving benefit in winter. If the sun shines on it in summer it would heat up the black, so a shade outside the window would be best for keeping cool.
Thanks for the video! Have you tested the sound blocking effect of these film inserts by any chance? ...or do I need to use Perspex for that? Thanks for any advice on sound blocking.
I think our house is quieter with the inserts, but haven't tested it in a tangible way. Thicker plastic would be better. A solid glazing like glass or acrylic would be best.
Not precise data. When our house had single pane aluminum windows, adding double storm windows cut our firewood use literally in half, and the house stayed noticeably warmer. I've since installed vinyl frame double pane windows, and mostly switched to electric heat. Without these storm windows, we had a hard time keeping the house warm with electric heat during a cold spell. Adding storm windows again made the house noticeably warmer and dropped our electric bill by at least $30 a month.
Yes, we live near a river that is a constant background sound, and it's definitely quieter when our double 3 mil storm windows are in. Thicker plastic like 5 mil would dampen sound even better, but costs more. Solid acrylic or glass panes are best at blocking sound, especially 1/4" thick or more, but more expensive and harder to cut.
The weatherstrip needs to condense enough to get the window in and out and compensate for variations in the space between the storm window and the window frame. Closed cell does not compress enough, so the space would have to be an exact fit. Though it's possible open cell may allow a tiny bit of moisture and air through, cutting the inside film slightly larger makes an air and moisture barrier all the way around.
They will help reduce noise some. A thicker plastic like 5 or 7 mil is better for noise, though it costs more. You can get much thicker vinyl, but it's not as clear. If you really want to reduce noise a lot, use a solid acrylic sheet or glass, but they are harder to cut and cost more.
Yes, glass is heavier, needs to be cut to size, and you have to be careful not to break it. Glass does block noise better than plastic, and can be put either outside or inside your window. It costs more new, but there are plenty of old windows for free if you take out the glass and cut it yourself. If you were to put two panes on a wood frame you're basically building your own insulated glass unit, which would be quite heavy to take in and out.
@@HartzHomestead thanks for the reply! I didn’t know a wood frame could be used to build an insulated unit. Everything I’ve seen looks like it has metal or plastic spacers before going in any kind of frame. Do you have any suggestions on how to do it with wood?
@@joshuatoral5105 I've never done it, not sure how well it would work. I'm just saying if you did it would be heavy for a storm window. The main concern would be moisture, as wood expands and contracts, so the wood would need to be well sealed. To use glass for a storm window it would be better to build a wood frame for each piece of glass.
An argon filled double pane window with a low E coating is about R3. The air space between two ordinary panes of glass, or plastic, is about R2. Adding 3 layers of plastic 3/4" apart, those 3 air spaces will add R2 each x 3 = R6. Over an R3 window makes R9. I can tell it works because it has cut our heating bill in half, from $100 to $50 a month in the winter. A triple pane window salesman shot my storm windows with a temp gun, and said they were as good as his R-8 windows that were $1,000 each.
@@HartzHomestead I really enjoyed your video. Very well done information for people who want to find a simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade for their window performance in winter. However your R value calculations aren't quite right. For example, as you mentioned, one lite of uncoated glass - R1, two lites uncoated and no argon, R2, three lites R3, and so on. In simplest terms, adding each additional layer adds an additional R1 to the stack. Forgetting R value completely, since ultimately it's just a lab calculation, adding 2 or more layers of plastic (tight is crucial) is without doubt going to make a very noticeable improvement in winter time performance and comfort. Summer improvement is more hit or miss, depending on other factors, but for winter it's a great idea. each ad
@gregcorwin8316 This is debatable - I've not found any real studies on it. It is not the film but the air space that creates the insulation. Filled with air, one airspace is about R-2, filled with argon that same airspace is R-3. My logic is the airspace between 2 layers of glass creates an R-2, so each additional airspace adds another R-2. I've also noticed that plastic feels warmer than glass to the touch, and moisture does not condense on plastic as readily, indicating it is warmer, so the plastic itself may add a tiny amount of insulation. I do know that our house is much warmer with these installed.
@@HartzHomestead Consider that a single sheet of glass in a window is an R1, you mention that in the video and I agree 100%, so no dispute. Two lites in an IG or dual pane unit, without LowE coating or argon, or even a single pane with a storm window attached is an R2. That is also well established, and was also mentioned in the video, so once again we agree there too. However three lites in a triple pane configuration, with no coating or argon, is an R3, again this is a well-tested and well established performance value, yet if each airspace in a triple is independently an R2 as you suggest, then why is the actual triple an R3 and not an R4? And why is a single pane R1 if it has no airspace at all? As a quick aside, actual window glass energy performance when clear (uncoated) glass and with no gas infill (other than ordinary air), in multi pane configurations, will vary slightly based on the width of the airspace as well as glass thickness. Using R1, R2, R3, in examples is for clarity and will vary slightly real time based on the factors mentioned. Using R 2.02 versus R 2.04 based on different airspace depth or variations in glass thickness, rather than just generically keeping it at R2, would be cumbersome IMO and not really add anything to the discussion. However if you prefer to be more precise, then I would suggest using U factor rather than R value for more precision....but that might be overkill without adding anything really beneficial to the overall discussion. The ideal width of an airspace for maximum energy performance varies depending on whether or not it's filled with air or argon, and/or based on the LowE coating used, and/or on the thickness of the glass. As you mentioned in the video, 1/2"-3/4" works great for the application that you describe, no disagreement at all, I think 3/4" is ideal because you can put film on both sides of a 1x2 (again as you describe) and end up with a very workable internal storm window, with a solid R2 as constructed. But, if the airspace is the main consideration, then why is it necessary to have multiple sheets of plastic rather than just a single sheet of plastic installed several inches from the original window? If airspace is the insulator, then why do you get better performance (and you do) from having multiple chambers rather than a single wider airspace without the additional layers if the plastic sheet versus the single wider air space?
@@gregcorwin8316 The problem with an air space over 3/4" is that there's room for convection currents down the colder surface and up the warmer one within that space, thus transferring more heat. I've seen charts that show 5/8" as optimal, and over 1" is not so good. A single pane is near R-1 because of a thin film of air on both sides of the surface, which might be reduced if it's very windy out. You might be right about the R values, though from experience it seems plastic insulates better than glass. I've never seen a scientific study on it. One chart I saw showed 2 panes of glass at R-2 and 3 panes at R-3.2, with just air between them and no coating, so each space would only add R-1.2. Another website lists 2 panes at R-3 to 3.8 and 3 panes at R-7 to 8, so that second space adds as much insulation as the first, but those are argon filled with Low-E coatings.
I should have said $10 to $40 - it depends on the size. I did find 3/8" x 1/2" x 17' MD weatherstrip at Home Depot for $2.07, and 1/2" x 3/4" x 17' Frost King on Amazon for $4.65. Search for "Open Cell Foam Tape" or check your local hardware store. A 3' x 4' double storm window takes 14' double stick tape x 2 sides = 28'. A 36 yard roll from ePlastics is $12, = $0.12/ft x 28' = $3.36. 3 mil Dura-Lar on Amazon is $61 for 40" x 50', or $1.22/ft x 8' = $9.76 for 2 layers. So Foam $4.65 + Tape $3.36 + Film $9.76 = $17.77 for a double 3' x 4'. I built mine with scrap lumber I already had. Buying 1"x2"x8' lumber runs $2 - $8 each, so that adds $4 to $16, total $22 to $34 plus screws, varnish etc, more or less depending on the size of your window.
A+ video, well explained, demonstrated and excellent Comments. Thank you and definitely subscribed. I didn’t see any mention of how the dry shrunken seals in windows are degassed over the years. I’m assuming there’s a permanent performance drop once that happens. My parents have a sunroom with 3 walls of double glazed windows all have bad seals (windows are about 25 years old) and are hazy from condensation mineral deposits. 😢 In the summer I’m attempting on fixing the haze as seen on other videos by drilling tiny access hole to allow for demineralizing solution to be forced in between the glass via compressed air. Then a distilled water rinse for a clean dry. Looks like 2024 is the year of the window. 😊
We have several double glazed windows 25 to 40 years old that still have a good seal, so I think it depends on how well made they were in the first place and how much environmental stress they've had. I have 3 skylights I built that fogged up in a few years and was told I should have ordered a silicone seal for skylights. Three others fogged up because the glass cracked, so those need replacing. I saw a video on demineralization, but you'd still have a window with a poor seal. If you have the unit out of the window and get it dry inside I wonder if butyl flashing all the way around would seal it up, as butyl does not leak moisture at all like silicone can.
![⚔️จำกัดเวลา⚔️ [พากย์ไทย] ซอร์ดอาร์ตออนไลน์ ซีซั่น 1 - ฉบับมัดรวมทุกตอน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ohkfBVDXLSA/mqdefault.jpg)
Note: To shrink the film tight with a hair dryer like Window Insulation Shrink Kits, I'd suggest 1.0 or 1.5 mil film.
The 3 mil polyester film I use is a little wavy but not wrinkled, so a hair dryer isn't necessary.
The 3 mil is too thick to shrink with a hair dryer, and a heat gun will melt holes if you're not careful.
Does the thickness of the film affect R value?
@@drencrum Good question. It's primarily the air spaces that provide the insulation. The thickness of the film may make a small difference, but not much - I have not found any data on that. More important is to have air spaces between 1/2" and 3/4". Much more than that and you get convection currents that transfer heat. A thicker film will reduce sound transfer though, if noise is a concern.
12 minutes and 45 seconds of high density information. No frills or filler. Good information, great delivery, answers all questions. Pack it in folks, this is the winner on the topic. Very good job, sir!
Thanks so much for the compliment. This video was 2 years in the making, shot over 300 video clips and spent several weeks editing. Hoping it really helps people save energy on heating.
Im so excited to try this. You’ve made it clear and simple. Even nonwoodworkers can do this!
For about $35 per window I will save enough in one year to pay myself back.
THANK YOU
Glad to hear it! That's my goal, that this video gives you enough information to build them yourself. It's true that the savings are tremendous.
Absolutely fantastic. This needs WAY more views and thumbs up.
Thanks! Comments like this help make it worth all the time I put into making the video.
Thank you for the comprehensive video, I’ve watched a lot of them and yours is by far the most succinct.
Love your idea of using Mylar, it looks absolutely crystal clear and the thicker weight will last more than one season.
Also, never thought about using two layers of film, this is brilliant because it exponentially increases the insulation value for a small amount of extra effort and material cost.
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and great detail.
After years of trial and error. This guy is spot on. Thank you so much.
Winter is coming..... and I am excited
Thanks, a lot of effort went into developing these, and making the video. Glad you appreciate it! They really do make a difference.
I made mine with pvc trim and duck brand max shrink plastic window kits, supposedly 1.5 mil. I really like the idea of polyester film, wish I'd thought of that. Great idea, thanks man
I'm thrilled to get started on a few windows for my house! Happy to support you by purchasing your recommendations via your links. I appreciate the exceptional video!
Thanks for your support!
Thank you. This is one of the best videos on this topic I’ve watched so far. Hoping to help my daughter make these for her house. Possibly looking at using Mylar or something similar. Live in Texas - so might use year round. Cut heat in summer and cold in winter. Thanks again
Glad it was helpful! For keeping the heat out in summer, also be sure to have some external shading, like awnings or solar screens, to block the sun before it shines through the window. I plan to do a video on that next spring.
Very well covered I don't think you missed anything, thanks for the Video.
Thanks for this - this is the most comprehensive video out there! Questions - how long do the films last when directly applied to the window frames? And do they remove the paint? Also, is all mylar the same? Thanks!
The 3 mil film should still last 30+ years taped directly inside a window frame. A thinner .75 to 1.5 mil shrink film may not last as long. It's possible the tape can come loose sooner depending on the quality of tape and surface you tape it to. The 1/2" tape with red backing from ePlastics (link in video description) is very good. If you have good quality paint, you can likely peel, scrape or rub the tape off like rubber cement without damaging the paint. The 3 mil clear polyester films I've gotten from ePlastics and Grafix Dura-Lar from Amazon were both equally good. Some reviews for shrink film kits said the clarity of the .75 and 1.5 shrink films varied. They come folded up so shrinking with a hair dryer is needed to get rid of the wrinkles, while the films I've gotten came smooth on a roll.
I might try this when I can afford it.😊
Great informative video. Thanks.
Thank for sharing!
Thank you so much for sharing this! Our house has a screen room with 4 track windows. It's great May-Sept but the vinyl has no r-value to speak of. It just keeps the wind out. I got quotes for putting in proper glass windows and that's way out of our budget. This seems like a good way to extend how long we can use the porch.
Yes, adding more layers of plastic will make a huge difference. Just be sure they are attached well enough so the wind doesn't blow them out.
I went with 12 mil vinyl for my inserts for high durability, but they are also covering 123 year old single pane wavy glass, so optical distortions from it aren't a problem. I think the vinyl also provides some sound attenuation as well, but I have not measured it.
Thanks for the report! Vinyl is very durable, and I would think that would help with sound.
bless you man
(slow clap) Verry well done sir! Great instruction and great information.
Glad you appreciate it! This video was 21 months in the making, about 200 hours editing, from 340 clips I shot down to 94, plus 124 titles. The subject is dear to my heart, since these storm windows have made a huge difference in having a warm house, and not enough people know about them. I love the way they look, and could save the world significant amounts of energy.
Great video, many thanks! Already made the frame with shrink film. One question, I'm looking for an alternative to the polyster film which I can get in Europe as the provided links does not ship to Europe. How does .003 inch translate to 3 milimeters? according to my calculations 0.003 * 25.4 = 0.0762 milimeter?
The phrase "3 mil" refers to 3 Thousandths of an inch, not to millimeters. Especially in North America, the word "mil" refers to 1/1000 of an inch. So yes, 3 mil plastic is 0.0762 millimeters thick.
Ah now I understand, thanks for the reply!
I have problems in my bedroom with sunlight and streetlights. It gets very bright and it’s not very dark. I’m trying find ways to make it better for sleeping. This plastic will will be ideal in the summer heat and winter cold in NY. I’ve seen other ways to make it black out. I wonder if this could be used with plastic that is black to block out light? Any idea about black plastic?
You could use any plastic. I've seen tinted mylar (polyester film) with a reflective surface on one side, which you could face out, so you could still see through it, but it would be much darker. Black plastic would give you total blackness. It's usually polyethylene, and comes in 3 - 10 mil. Not sure if it would last as long as polyester, but you'd still get the heat saving benefit in winter. If the sun shines on it in summer it would heat up the black, so a shade outside the window would be best for keeping cool.
Thank you! Very excited to build some frames. My home is going to be warmer in the Upstate winter.
Thanks for the video! Have you tested the sound blocking effect of these film inserts by any chance? ...or do I need to use Perspex for that? Thanks for any advice on sound blocking.
I think our house is quieter with the inserts, but haven't tested it in a tangible way. Thicker plastic would be better. A solid glazing like glass or acrylic would be best.
Awesome video! Do you happen to have data on heating/cooling costs before and after installing these?
Not precise data. When our house had single pane aluminum windows, adding double storm windows cut our firewood use literally in half, and the house stayed noticeably warmer. I've since installed vinyl frame double pane windows, and mostly switched to electric heat. Without these storm windows, we had a hard time keeping the house warm with electric heat during a cold spell. Adding storm windows again made the house noticeably warmer and dropped our electric bill by at least $30 a month.
Nice video. Did you notice any reduction in the noise level?
Yes, we live near a river that is a constant background sound, and it's definitely quieter when our double 3 mil storm windows are in. Thicker plastic like 5 mil would dampen sound even better, but costs more. Solid acrylic or glass panes are best at blocking sound, especially 1/4" thick or more, but more expensive and harder to cut.
@@HartzHomestead Thank you!
Why did you choose open cell weatherstripping rather than closed cell?
The weatherstrip needs to condense enough to get the window in and out and compensate for variations in the space between the storm window and the window frame. Closed cell does not compress enough, so the space would have to be an exact fit. Though it's possible open cell may allow a tiny bit of moisture and air through, cutting the inside film slightly larger makes an air and moisture barrier all the way around.
Will it stop noise, too?
They will help reduce noise some. A thicker plastic like 5 or 7 mil is better for noise, though it costs more. You can get much thicker vinyl, but it's not as clear. If you really want to reduce noise a lot, use a solid acrylic sheet or glass, but they are harder to cut and cost more.
@@HartzHomesteadThank you.
Can this be done with glass instead of plastic film?
Yes, glass is heavier, needs to be cut to size, and you have to be careful not to break it. Glass does block noise better than plastic, and can be put either outside or inside your window. It costs more new, but there are plenty of old windows for free if you take out the glass and cut it yourself. If you were to put two panes on a wood frame you're basically building your own insulated glass unit, which would be quite heavy to take in and out.
@@HartzHomestead thanks for the reply! I didn’t know a wood frame could be used to build an insulated unit. Everything I’ve seen looks like it has metal or plastic spacers before going in any kind of frame. Do you have any suggestions on how to do it with wood?
@@joshuatoral5105 I've never done it, not sure how well it would work. I'm just saying if you did it would be heavy for a storm window. The main concern would be moisture, as wood expands and contracts, so the wood would need to be well sealed. To use glass for a storm window it would be better to build a wood frame for each piece of glass.
R5 to R9 from an R2-3 is totally ridiculous. Where do those numbers come from? I think you would be lucky to get even 1 additional R.
An argon filled double pane window with a low E coating is about R3. The air space between two ordinary panes of glass, or plastic, is about R2. Adding 3 layers of plastic 3/4" apart, those 3 air spaces will add R2 each x 3 = R6. Over an R3 window makes R9. I can tell it works because it has cut our heating bill in half, from $100 to $50 a month in the winter. A triple pane window salesman shot my storm windows with a temp gun, and said they were as good as his R-8 windows that were $1,000 each.
@@HartzHomestead I really enjoyed your video. Very well done information for people who want to find a simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade for their window performance in winter. However your R value calculations aren't quite right. For example, as you mentioned, one lite of uncoated glass - R1, two lites uncoated and no argon, R2, three lites R3, and so on. In simplest terms, adding each additional layer adds an additional R1 to the stack.
Forgetting R value completely, since ultimately it's just a lab calculation, adding 2 or more layers of plastic (tight is crucial) is without doubt going to make a very noticeable improvement in winter time performance and comfort. Summer improvement is more hit or miss, depending on other factors, but for winter it's a great idea.
each ad
@gregcorwin8316 This is debatable - I've not found any real studies on it. It is not the film but the air space that creates the insulation. Filled with air, one airspace is about R-2, filled with argon that same airspace is R-3. My logic is the airspace between 2 layers of glass creates an R-2, so each additional airspace adds another R-2. I've also noticed that plastic feels warmer than glass to the touch, and moisture does not condense on plastic as readily, indicating it is warmer, so the plastic itself may add a tiny amount of insulation. I do know that our house is much warmer with these installed.
@@HartzHomestead Consider that a single sheet of glass in a window is an R1, you mention that in the video and I agree 100%, so no dispute. Two lites in an IG or dual pane unit, without LowE coating or argon, or even a single pane with a storm window attached is an R2. That is also well established, and was also mentioned in the video, so once again we agree there too.
However three lites in a triple pane configuration, with no coating or argon, is an R3, again this is a well-tested and well established performance value, yet if each airspace in a triple is independently an R2 as you suggest, then why is the actual triple an R3 and not an R4? And why is a single pane R1 if it has no airspace at all?
As a quick aside, actual window glass energy performance when clear (uncoated) glass and with no gas infill (other than ordinary air), in multi pane configurations, will vary slightly based on the width of the airspace as well as glass thickness. Using R1, R2, R3, in examples is for clarity and will vary slightly real time based on the factors mentioned. Using R 2.02 versus R 2.04 based on different airspace depth or variations in glass thickness, rather than just generically keeping it at R2, would be cumbersome IMO and not really add anything to the discussion. However if you prefer to be more precise, then I would suggest using U factor rather than R value for more precision....but that might be overkill without adding anything really beneficial to the overall discussion.
The ideal width of an airspace for maximum energy performance varies depending on whether or not it's filled with air or argon, and/or based on the LowE coating used, and/or on the thickness of the glass. As you mentioned in the video, 1/2"-3/4" works great for the application that you describe, no disagreement at all, I think 3/4" is ideal because you can put film on both sides of a 1x2 (again as you describe) and end up with a very workable internal storm window, with a solid R2 as constructed.
But, if the airspace is the main consideration, then why is it necessary to have multiple sheets of plastic rather than just a single sheet of plastic installed several inches from the original window? If airspace is the insulator, then why do you get better performance (and you do) from having multiple chambers rather than a single wider airspace without the additional layers if the plastic sheet versus the single wider air space?
@@gregcorwin8316 The problem with an air space over 3/4" is that there's room for convection currents down the colder surface and up the warmer one within that space, thus transferring more heat. I've seen charts that show 5/8" as optimal, and over 1" is not so good. A single pane is near R-1 because of a thin film of air on both sides of the surface, which might be reduced if it's very windy out. You might be right about the R values, though from experience it seems plastic insulates better than glass. I've never seen a scientific study on it. One chart I saw showed 2 panes of glass at R-2 and 3 panes at R-3.2, with just air between them and no coating, so each space would only add R-1.2. Another website lists 2 panes at R-3 to 3.8 and 3 panes at R-7 to 8, so that second space adds as much insulation as the first, but those are argon filled with Low-E coatings.
10-20 dollars a window?? how is this possible?? The foam weatherstripping alone is that much!
I should have said $10 to $40 - it depends on the size. I did find 3/8" x 1/2" x 17' MD weatherstrip at Home Depot for $2.07, and 1/2" x 3/4" x 17' Frost King on Amazon for $4.65. Search for "Open Cell Foam Tape" or check your local hardware store.
A 3' x 4' double storm window takes 14' double stick tape x 2 sides = 28'. A 36 yard roll from ePlastics is $12, = $0.12/ft x 28' = $3.36.
3 mil Dura-Lar on Amazon is $61 for 40" x 50', or $1.22/ft x 8' = $9.76 for 2 layers.
So Foam $4.65 + Tape $3.36 + Film $9.76 = $17.77 for a double 3' x 4'. I built mine with scrap lumber I already had. Buying 1"x2"x8' lumber runs $2 - $8 each, so that adds $4 to $16, total $22 to $34 plus screws, varnish etc, more or less depending on the size of your window.
A+ video, well explained, demonstrated and excellent Comments.
Thank you and definitely subscribed.
I didn’t see any mention of how the dry shrunken seals in windows are degassed over the years. I’m assuming there’s a permanent performance drop once that happens.
My parents have a sunroom with 3 walls of double glazed windows all have bad seals (windows are about 25 years old) and are hazy from condensation mineral deposits. 😢
In the summer I’m attempting on fixing the haze as seen on other videos by drilling tiny access hole to allow for demineralizing solution to be forced in between the glass via compressed air. Then a distilled water rinse for a clean dry.
Looks like 2024 is the year of the window. 😊
We have several double glazed windows 25 to 40 years old that still have a good seal, so I think it depends on how well made they were in the first place and how much environmental stress they've had. I have 3 skylights I built that fogged up in a few years and was told I should have ordered a silicone seal for skylights. Three others fogged up because the glass cracked, so those need replacing. I saw a video on demineralization, but you'd still have a window with a poor seal. If you have the unit out of the window and get it dry inside I wonder if butyl flashing all the way around would seal it up, as butyl does not leak moisture at all like silicone can.