I don't know of any multi meter that puts out the several amps necessary to ignite an airbag squib, plenty of videos on YT showing that multimeters don't set the squib off. On older cars where used airbags are cheap and you've checked wiring and the fault is highly likely the airbag unit itself it's not a big deal to check the squib resistance or any internal earth fault with a multimeter, just be sensible about doing it ( ear defendersafety squints , secures airbag keep your distance.
Great video, very informative! On later model Hondas, I find it hard to use a cheap simulator because there is a shorting bar in the connector when it's unplugged. I had to buy Hondas tool, but it has a different connector for every airbag.
Enjoyed your content,,,you're a very knowledgeable person...still working on my airbag light,,,I'm not so smart...did answer some questions I had...I give it another try...thanks...
I have purchased a wrecked 07 Beetle convertible from an insurance auction with airbag deployment. I have located and installed a new airbag, replaced both left and right crash sensors under the front bumper structure, (Where it was hit). I have sent in my SRS airbag module and seatbelt to Restore company to reprogram the module and reset the seatbelt, however when I plug in my newly programmed module, and seatbelt I still get the airbag light on the dash, but its blinking fast then just stays on. i tried to reset the SES with my scan tool, however, it displays "reset failed". my next step is ordering 4 of the 2.2ohm resistor test blocks to troubleshoot each airbag in the car. my question is, when i plug in these resistors, i need to run the scan tool again right? then i assume do this for every airbag in the car. I realized after i sent off the SRS module to be reprogrammed, i found out from a fellow auction friend that someone when looking at the beetle had manually reset the pop-up roll bar in the vehicle when examining it and when i bought it i was unaware of him doing this. do these have sensors that will need to be replaced as well like the front bumper does before I get a clear dash? are you aware if i do replace these sensors, do i have to send back the SRS module to get reset again? Hard to tell where i need to go from here.
Mr B, Your airbag system diagnostic lesson was good. I have wires severed going to the front impact sensor. If good practices are utilized can these wires be spliced back together?
Very informative video! Do you know how would the DIY version of the"air bag simulator" work if the seat occupancy sensor was bad. I have seen a lot of cars (including my own) where the passenger seat occupancy sensor conncetor is not plugged direcrtly on the yellow air bag connector under the seat - clearly the yellow air bag wiring is going to the module but is the occupancy sensor wiring going to the module also? I think my question is that where do you plug the simulator (or basically 2ohm resistor) if the seat occypancy sensor was bad and you would like to double check if thats the real problem before replacing the whole seat?
The occupancy sensor can’t be tested that way, because the simulator only replaces an airbag or belt tensioner igniter. With the occupancy detection, you would follow the OEM diagnostic procedure for the system. Scan tool diagnostics by using the weight readout as seen in the video is a good start. Thanks for watching!
I don't know of any multi meter that puts out the several amps necessary to ignite an airbag squib, plenty of videos on YT showing that multimeters don't set the squib off. On older cars where used airbags are cheap and you've checked wiring and the fault is highly likely the airbag unit itself it's not a big deal to check the squib resistance or any internal earth fault with a multimeter, just be sensible about doing it ( ear defendersafety squints , secures airbag keep your distance.
Great video, very informative! On later model Hondas, I find it hard to use a cheap simulator because there is a shorting bar in the connector when it's unplugged. I had to buy Hondas tool, but it has a different connector for every airbag.
usually not a problem to insulate the shorting bar from 1 pin with thin plastic insulator? no special tools required
Enjoyed your content,,,you're a very knowledgeable person...still working on my airbag light,,,I'm not so smart...did answer some questions I had...I give it another try...thanks...
I have purchased a wrecked 07 Beetle convertible from an insurance auction with airbag deployment. I have located and installed a new airbag, replaced both left and right crash sensors under the front bumper structure, (Where it was hit). I have sent in my SRS airbag module and seatbelt to Restore company to reprogram the module and reset the seatbelt, however when I plug in my newly programmed module, and seatbelt I still get the airbag light on the dash, but its blinking fast then just stays on. i tried to reset the SES with my scan tool, however, it displays "reset failed". my next step is ordering 4 of the 2.2ohm resistor test blocks to troubleshoot each airbag in the car. my question is, when i plug in these resistors, i need to run the scan tool again right? then i assume do this for every airbag in the car. I realized after i sent off the SRS module to be reprogrammed, i found out from a fellow auction friend that someone when looking at the beetle had manually reset the pop-up roll bar in the vehicle when examining it and when i bought it i was unaware of him doing this. do these have sensors that will need to be replaced as well like the front bumper does before I get a clear dash? are you aware if i do replace these sensors, do i have to send back the SRS module to get reset again? Hard to tell where i need to go from here.
Mr B, Your airbag system diagnostic lesson was good. I have wires severed going to the front impact sensor. If good practices are utilized can these wires be spliced back together?
If the manufacturer allows it, yes. I would use gold plated connectors if a repair is made and heat shrink to keep water out. Hope this helps!
Very informative video! Do you know how would the DIY version of the"air bag simulator" work if the seat occupancy sensor was bad.
I have seen a lot of cars (including my own) where the passenger seat occupancy sensor conncetor is not plugged direcrtly on the yellow air bag connector under the seat - clearly the yellow air bag wiring is going to the module but is the occupancy sensor wiring going to the module also?
I think my question is that where do you plug the simulator (or basically 2ohm resistor) if the seat occypancy sensor was bad and you would like to double check if thats the real problem before replacing the whole seat?
The occupancy sensor can’t be tested that way, because the simulator only replaces an airbag or belt tensioner igniter. With the occupancy detection, you would follow the OEM diagnostic procedure for the system. Scan tool diagnostics by using the weight readout as seen in the video is a good start. Thanks for watching!
Very good video
Thanks for watching!
Based *ON*, not off