Hopefully this video will give you a better understanding on baffles. If you have any further questions, let us know in the comments and we'll try to get back to you as soon as possible!
i'm getting moisture into my ceiling and I don't understand why my rafter spaces are vented, even where there's no attic space to speak of. it seems to be just vented into a cavity that ought to be full of insulation and doesn't go to any other space. was it built correctly? it only happens when it's snowing and windy. the water gets in somehow and drips on the back of the drywall and eventually starts soaking through.
It seems like there are 2 types of installation here one which the baffles extend from one rafter to the next and another where the baffle is just placed in the middle. Can you tell me what is the correct installation?
Rafter to rafter makes more sense for larger air flow, and easier to staple to. But you can see at 1:11 the type of truss used in that case would make it more challenging.
Jonathan Tarro Look for light to see where vents are, put a baffle where vents are. If you don't see light the vents might be buried, or maybe you don't have any measure attic to find sq footage, figure out how many you need. Go outside to your soffit and cut out the number of vents u need. Cover hole with vent screen, then go back in to attic and add baffles to the vents you cut. Make sure they are low enough to blown insulation doesn't cover hole. Most average houses have 6 per side. There is a formula that says how many you need based on area, but I don't remember what it is. Also male sure you have enough vents in roof, and they are at right hight and spaced apart correctly th-cam.com/video/vShj1l0PnF0/w-d-xo.html
Wide rafters are 24" inch centers, narrow are 16" centers. He used narrower size (used in 16 centers) instead of wider size (not shown) baffles (for 24s). Unfortunately, as is, any blown-in insulation can now go down on either side of the narrower baffle and block the soffit slits necessary for air entry. Should have bought the wider size baffle that fits rafter-to-rafter, preventing any blown-in insulation from clogging the soffit entry slits. Costs a few cents more...
Just discovered the previous owner of my house did not install baffles when they finished the attic. Batt insulation is right against the roof sheathed then vapor barrier. There's a ton of moisture. I am not happy.
At the top of the exterior wall, you insulation is only as deep as your roof rafters less the thickness of your "chute" . Technically, not a "consistant R value".
Same...1970s home....2x4 roof trusses....insulation doesn't even extend past the 2x4. Hoping to make this place warmer for the upcoming Midwest winter. Good luck!
the soffit vents have screens or wherever the air vent that supplies the baffles with air should have a screen small enough that not very many bugs can get through
Not really. It depends on the application. For blown in insulation, it doesn't HAVE to be running to ridge vent. If you are insulting the roof, you needed to have those channels for air to travel through to segregate roof v temperature from the insulated area.
xOwlz You are wrong. The baffles are thete to stop restrictions of air flow, when insukation is blown in. air needs to circulate from soffits to roof vents.
The baffles allow air to move into the attic, collecting heat and moisture which can exit out the ridge vent, if available. Therefore, the baffle would only need to be safely beyond the insulation - he said 24 inches - and not extended to the ridge vent.
@@andrewbeaudry4399 No need to be mean here. The only really stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked. The only questions I have ever regretted were the ones I did NOT ask.
Lay them as you would tar paper on a roof. Start at the peak and as you go down overlap a few inches every time with the next piece below. Basically any moisture on top should drip on to the piece just below it every time to keep the insulation underneath dry all the way down.
andrew beaudry Ideally, every bay. Typically every other Bay. I believe standards are 32" long baffles, but I could be wrong. You can never have too much air ventilation. The purpose of this is to keep your plywood and shingles the same temperature as the outside to prevent damage as well as reduce moisture levels to avoid rot and molding. The insulation keeps unwanted climate separated from the living space.
xOwlz You don't need a baffle where thete are no vents. not all soffit have a continuous vent. Look out side and see where vents are, or in dark attic look for light coming in, put a baffle there, if not enough light cut more vents in soffit. Every attic is different and requires different amounts of ventilation. I found the formula on line. Depends on sq footage etc. Also the amount of roof vents and placement is very important, the vents high and low need to work together for ideal circulation
Hello there all. Yes there is a formula all right. One square foot of vent for every 150 sq feet of attic floor area. Unless you have 1/ more than 36 inches from the in vent to the roof vent out. 2/ air sealing of the attic floor and or indoor ceiling. 3/ as well the recommended r value insulation. Like R 50 or 60 here in Alberta. 4/ no cathedral ceilings If you have all that you need only one square foot for 300 sq ft of attic floor. This is to be split 50% in the roof 50% at the eaves. There are other conditions as well. Gable vents. Are both in and out vents. Try to put the vents low like on top of the insulation to allow air in as there would be no air coming in the attic from eaves on that side. Roof vents are to be at the same height if possible ridge vent is best as it vents each bay between the trusses or rafters. And will match your eaves and baffle venting Note the sq in on the flat vents as most are only 50 or 60 sq inches. Do the math 1000 soft house less than R40 no air sealing needs 7 sq feet of vent 3-1/2 on the roof that’s 504 sq in that’s 10 of those square flat vents or 260 inches of ridge vent.
@@epiphany4074 It is near impossible to get the attic and roof sheathing temperature the same as the ambient outdoor air temperature, due to the radiant heat from the sun. You would need three or four 1500 cfm power ventilators to come close to achieving that goal, at that point you'd be using enough electricity to run a central a.c. unit. Proper depth and type of insulation will do more than any amount of ventilation.
Some expert will have to answer whether it is possible to have too much ventilation, but what CAN happen is that the roof vents placed improperly too close to each other form a recirc loop just between those vents that does NOT adequately ventilate the attic.
I think this is a bunch of BS! My dad and I insulated our house back in 1985, when it was built and the wood deck is still looks new. Just another bull shit ideal from some dude who wants to show off.....
Finally! Someone that knows what they're talking about.
I feel much less baffled (by baffles, there are still many things baffling me). Thank you.
one of the best jokes ive ever herd. im dying rn.
Very Well Done
Excellent presentation
Very consistent >>>
i'm getting moisture into my ceiling and I don't understand why my rafter spaces are vented, even where there's no attic space to speak of. it seems to be just vented into a cavity that ought to be full of insulation and doesn't go to any other space.
was it built correctly? it only happens when it's snowing and windy. the water gets in somehow and drips on the back of the drywall and eventually starts soaking through.
It seems like there are 2 types of installation here one which the baffles extend from one rafter to the next and another where the baffle is just placed in the middle. Can you tell me what is the correct installation?
Rafter to rafter makes more sense for larger air flow, and easier to staple to. But you can see at 1:11 the type of truss used in that case would make it more challenging.
Jonathan Tarro
Look for light to see where vents are, put a baffle where vents are. If you don't see light the vents might be buried, or maybe you don't have any measure attic to find sq footage, figure out how many you need. Go outside to your soffit and cut out the number of vents u need. Cover hole with vent screen, then go back in to attic and add baffles to the vents you cut. Make sure they are low enough to blown insulation doesn't cover hole. Most average houses have 6 per side. There is a formula that says how many you need based on area, but I don't remember what it is. Also male sure you have enough vents in roof, and they are at right hight and spaced apart correctly
th-cam.com/video/vShj1l0PnF0/w-d-xo.html
Wide rafters are 24" inch centers, narrow are 16" centers. He used narrower size (used in 16 centers) instead of wider size (not shown) baffles (for 24s). Unfortunately, as is, any blown-in insulation can now go down on either side of the narrower baffle and block the soffit slits necessary for air entry. Should have bought the wider size baffle that fits rafter-to-rafter, preventing any blown-in insulation from clogging the soffit entry slits. Costs a few cents more...
Just discovered the previous owner of my house did not install baffles when they finished the attic. Batt insulation is right against the roof sheathed then vapor barrier. There's a ton of moisture. I am not happy.
At the top of the exterior wall, you insulation is only as deep as your roof rafters less the thickness of your "chute" .
Technically, not a "consistant R value".
Fun at parties, this one
yes sometime you can only do the best you can..
nothing like a respirator when flaking insulation and shoving it overhead. the coughing and lung damage is a treat.
Very baffling
Good tips. I am starting to insulate my new place next week.
Same...1970s home....2x4 roof trusses....insulation doesn't even extend past the 2x4. Hoping to make this place warmer for the upcoming Midwest winter. Good luck!
I'm baffled.
Does a tiny home with no attic need baffles
do you have to do it on all eve's? or every other would do the job?
You should do every one ,you should also have vented soffits and a ridge vent or gable vents
How do you keep bugs from crawling up the baffle from the outside?
the soffit vents have screens or wherever the air vent that supplies the baffles with air should have a screen small enough that not very many bugs can get through
What’s a guy do if you got a metal roof with 2x4 strapping and no OSB to staple to.
Add horizontal 1x3 or 2x4 16 inches on center if you plan to drywall
Gloves
Can you repeat that.....I'm baffled.
Don't start these stupid puns and scrap.
Lou Libretti Hmmmmm You’re baffled🤔🤔 Is you house baffled too?🤪🤪🤪
I enjoy puns. I liked it
Are they placed only where soffits are? And do they go all the way up to the ridge vent?
Justin Jarosz
That's a stupid question
Not really. It depends on the application. For blown in insulation, it doesn't HAVE to be running to ridge vent.
If you are insulting the roof, you needed to have those channels for air to travel through to segregate roof v temperature from the insulated area.
xOwlz
You are wrong. The baffles are thete to stop restrictions of air flow, when insukation is blown in. air needs to circulate from soffits to roof vents.
The baffles allow air to move into the attic, collecting heat and moisture which can exit out the ridge vent, if available. Therefore, the baffle would only need to be safely beyond the insulation - he said 24 inches - and not extended to the ridge vent.
@@andrewbeaudry4399 No need to be mean here. The only really stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked. The only questions I have ever regretted were the ones I did NOT ask.
The distance I need to have baffled is 9' long. How are these baffles, which are 4' long connected to meet this requirement?
Lay them as you would tar paper on a roof. Start at the peak and as you go down overlap a few inches every time with the next piece below. Basically any moisture on top should drip on to the piece just below it every time to keep the insulation underneath dry all the way down.
How many vents should you have? Every so many feet? and how many roof vents? Can u have too much ventilation
andrew beaudry Ideally, every bay. Typically every other Bay. I believe standards are 32" long baffles, but I could be wrong. You can never have too much air ventilation. The purpose of this is to keep your plywood and shingles the same temperature as the outside to prevent damage as well as reduce moisture levels to avoid rot and molding.
The insulation keeps unwanted climate separated from the living space.
xOwlz
You don't need a baffle where thete are no vents. not all soffit have a continuous vent. Look out side and see where vents are, or in dark attic look for light coming in, put a baffle there, if not enough light cut more vents in soffit. Every attic is different and requires different amounts of ventilation. I found the formula on line. Depends on sq footage etc.
Also the amount of roof vents and placement is very important, the vents high and low need to work together for ideal circulation
Hello there all. Yes there is a formula all right. One square foot of vent for every 150 sq feet of attic floor area. Unless you have
1/ more than 36 inches from the in vent to the roof vent out.
2/ air sealing of the attic floor and or indoor ceiling.
3/ as well the recommended r value insulation. Like R 50 or 60 here in Alberta.
4/ no cathedral ceilings
If you have all that you need only one square foot for 300 sq ft of attic floor. This is to be split 50% in the roof 50% at the eaves.
There are other conditions as well. Gable vents. Are both in and out vents. Try to put the vents low like on top of the insulation to allow air in as there would be no air coming in the attic from eaves on that side.
Roof vents are to be at the same height if possible ridge vent is best as it vents each bay between the trusses or rafters. And will match your eaves and baffle venting
Note the sq in on the flat vents as most are only 50 or 60 sq inches.
Do the math
1000 soft house less than R40 no air sealing needs 7 sq feet of vent 3-1/2 on the roof that’s 504 sq in that’s 10 of those square flat vents or 260 inches of ridge vent.
@@epiphany4074 It is near impossible to get the attic and roof sheathing temperature the same as the ambient outdoor air temperature, due to the radiant heat from the sun.
You would need three or four 1500 cfm power ventilators to come close to achieving that goal, at that point you'd be using enough electricity to run a central a.c. unit.
Proper depth and type of insulation will do more than any amount of ventilation.
Some expert will have to answer whether it is possible to have too much ventilation, but what CAN happen is that the roof vents placed improperly too close to each other form a recirc loop just between those vents that does NOT adequately ventilate the attic.
If it really ok to put a staple into the underside of the roof decking?
Not sure if you're being sarcastic or not, but a staple on the underside of the roof decking is an absolute non-issue.
Is the guy without the mask installing fiberglass insulation still alive?
I noticed that too. I'm going to be insulating in the fall so I will wear a tyvek suit, goggles, gloves & a mask.
Cellulose works better anyway
@@kcmaldonado3948 Agree.
Lol
Yes, but probably has a nasty cough. 😅
I live in Texas. And would like to know where I can buy baffles. Everyone around here looks at me funny when I mention them. Please help me if you can
Same here
I found better balls on line. Cardboard and I would NEVER staple up into the roof deck. Staple them to the rafters.
Amazon, Lowes, most have these.
Home Depot or loses sells them .
Lowes
That was baffling? lol
No gloves, no mask, and yet ripping the insulation apart right in front of you? Are you insane?
Agreed
Poor black guy wasn't allowed to have a mask or gloves huh
I think this is a bunch of BS! My dad and I insulated our house back in 1985, when it was built and the wood deck is still looks new. Just another bull shit ideal from some dude who wants to show off.....
You go get 'em tiger!
This is the attic not the deck!