Sadly most of these "how to" videos are for classic cars or trucks and I just want to learn to use a light to set the timing for my Nissan Quest Van to be honest you made it so simple So what I understand is that I set my dial to 15* and the mark on the balancer will be "0" or the other way around- how easy is that!
I’ve relied on your channel a few times for my Infiniti M30, which has the same VG30E engine. Man your videos are extremely informative with no filler. Thank you very much
Thanks man!! Great explanation. I didn’t know that the yellow dot on the harmonic balancer would show alignment if it would be restarted or advanced. Sweet!!!
Nicely presented! Very informative. The adjustment for rotating the distributor looked to be fairly limited. Are there situations where you need to adjust it more than what that slot allows and if so how is it done? Just curious. Thanks for the vid!
If the distributor can't rotate enough to get to the spot you need, then you physically remove the distributor. It typically is a gear driven by the cam shaft. And you spin it to the next tooth and then set it back into the engine. If it's off by more than 1 tooth it probably wouldn't run
"Definitely keep your timing cover on, I dont care if you think it looks cool, its important" made me laugh my ass off. Has anyone ever actually tried to run an engine with no timing cover 😂😂??? I dont think thats a thing, I suppose It could be done on a belt driven engine where there aren't any oil or coolant passages into the cover, but its just ridiculous to even think of
I see people do it all the time on Facebook. Specifically the upper timing cover since it's easy to access and let's everyone see the belt but then the bottom cover just keeps any debris that got in right next to the belt lol. I think it started with the 2jz since their belt is right at the front and you can get colored timing belts and clear timing covers
@@TheZGarage what's up I haven't talked to you or bugged you in a while lol but when I set my time and again today don't I need to all of my car back down a little bit before so to like 600 RPMs or so or do you recall because my car idles since I deleted all the aic's I flipped the screw on the throttle body upside down to be able to set my idle and it idles at about a grand most all the time but to set the distributor with the timing light shouldn't I back it down after it warms up to 600 because it won't idle when it's cold at 600 that's why I just left it at a grand if you can answer me back I would like to do this today but no rush LOL and thanks for all the help you've given me I still haven't turboed my car I only need one or two more items and steal something else to drive I've been daily this it's my baby and I put that lightweight flywheel in and that better clutch and it's been a champ I've been taking it to car shows I've raced a couple of little shitty Hondas LOL but it's my baby and I've been talking to Josh Hayes from Hayes performance racing he's got a 74 blue 260Z with a LS3 with a blower and a 6-speed man he's fast but I'm building a drift car I want mine to be more like yours I think plus that's what I've already bought and I'm going to need a little help with this tune I'm sure in the future but thanks for all the help
How do you find your 20 degree mark. I just found an old KAL-LITE timing light in a house I just bought. I’m also a diesel mechanic apprentice so when I find tools I’m unfamiliar with I make myself familiar with them.
Does every crankshaft have the arrow and a distinct mark that represents the timing degree your car need to set to? In your video you set the timing light to zero degree and make sure every time the light flashes, the mark line up with the arrow. So the mark does not have to show up every time ? Just often enough to say the timing is somewhat on track ? How do you know to turn the distributor to the left or to the right (trial and error)? What if you set the timing light to 20 degrees, which mark then need to line up with the arrow. thanks
Hey so could this be a reason why my Z31 can’t go past 3000 rpm while I drive? I’ve already replaced the Mass airflow sensor which needed to be done because it was broken. Runs healthier now and I can give it throttle but it bogs kinda like a fuel cut at 3000 rpm. Do do you think it is this? Or the timing on my TPS? Or some thing else?
The 3k cut is always the maf. If it's not the sensor then it could be the wiring. I replaced my connector with a new one and it made my car run better. Might be a good idea for you to try.
Yes to much slack in chain or belt making camshaft and crankshaft positioning sensor malfunction with a wrong read. Can be bad crankshaft or cam shaft position sensor or your car is in Limp Mode. My Honda Odyssey van did that same thing it was a failed hydraulic timing belt tentioner and timing belt was loose I fixed all that ain't had that 3000 rpm cut out nomore
I know this is a while now, I have egr, and idle control deleted now , someone said you need to unplug the TPs when you do the ignition timing , is that true ?
I replaced the timing cover gasket on my ecoboost mustang. Had to remove crankshaft pulley to do so and other pulleys. Now car will turn over but not start. I’m afraid i messed up timing. Do i have to take the cover back off to see the chain?
Your timing wouldn’t be off if you just pulled the crank pulley. Did you remove the chain? You may have damaged your crank angle sensor. I would check that.
Did you ever look into the throttle body swap I was just wondering if you knew about it or if it would go smoothly they say something about the 240SX throttle body because it's 60 mm and the Nissan Maxima throttle body or the Nissan stanza the only issue anybody ever had is that coolant line but if you delete that coolant line which I am doing currently it with a lot of my hardlines most everything's already been deleted but I'm finishing it up now but long as you delete the coolant line are you have to do is flip it upside down and you're good to go and you have a 60 mm rather than a 56 I think I'm going to go for this I know where 2:40 is with everything still on it I'm going to try the throttle body out and see if it makes me get a little more air and I'm also doing the G35 alternator tomorrow because I have a old school Kenwood thousand watt amplifier on two 12 and a lot of LED lights I have also dug out all the wires so I can while back my factory fuel injector harness instead of the Nissan campaign I hate how they did that to so many cars with the fuel injector wiring that just seems unprofessional to me to add a bunch of janky ugly wires and not do it correctly what is batch mode that just sounds like not correct mode is What I Hear What I Hear That
I never really looked into the swap too much. I know a lot of people in Facebook have though so if you join the groups on there I'm sure someone will chime in!
Okay thank you I have the walbro 450 fuel pump and I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator it is really good I have K&N fuel filter ready what do you think about either a factory turbo ECU and maybe some 300cc 320 or 350 cc maybe fuel injectors for now like I said either on my python injection if it turns out to be okay I'm doing some research or the factory turbo ECU if it's any good do you think any of that may work out for me
I think the factory turbo injectors are 250cc. I would just get a set of turbo injectors to go with the turbo ecu. If you can't tune your ecu then you can't stick bigger injectors in it
What would happen to a z if it has bad timing. I think my 84 z31 turbo timing is off. Because my car starts up and runs but as it starts to warm up or just driving after a bit it dies and won’t cut on anymore. Until after it cools down. What could be a reason it’s doing this?
If it were the timing it would run bad all the time, not just after it's warmed up. What exactly is happening when it won't turn on. If you have it running will it just die on its own or is it only when it's been warmed up and you turn it off and then try to turn it back on?
The Z Garage I will turn the key and the motor will spin and spin and won’t starts. Like if I had no gas. But I recently changed the fuel pump almost exactly how u did in the video and I have full tank. I have even check fuel pressure and it’s all good there too. But I can very quickly repeatedly press the gas pedal when I try to crank it and it will run. But as soon as I let go it dies. I can even keep peddling it while pressing the break too and build boost and then let go of the break and I’ll drive from the boost and then after about 10 seconds of driving the car dies even tho my foot is still on the peddle. But when I first drive the car before being warmed or anything it will start up and dive normally. Some times it’ll take 2 crank or 3 to start but it’ll start. But like 10 min down the road or when it gets warms it shut off and won’t turn on. But also when I first start driving, the car will turn off every now and then I pull over and it turns back on. But as soon as it gets warms up that’s when it won’t turn on anymore unless I peddle it all weird.
The z31s are too old for code readers. There is a screw on the side of the ecu and two LEDs that flash to give codes. Google "XenonZcar diagnostics" and it should explain exactly how to do it
If you're talking about coolant temp, that's too high. You want to aim for somewhere around 190. Radiators get clogged in these cars all the time so it's probably a good thing to replace it and the thermostat
No good explanation on the degree dial I’m still lost so do I start on 0 or 10 were my truck should b. U said if I start on a degree it will be different on truck,how? I need explaining
If your truck should be set to 10 there are 2 ways of going about it. Either set the timing light to 10 degrees and then line the light up on the truck with its 0 degree mark. Or set the timing light to 0 and use the light to set the truck to 10 degrees.
So can bad timing cause my engine to die? My car will start and run but then will die if I don't give it gas. Only time it stays on is when I'm giving it a little gas. 1986 z31 na
I would be more suspicious of the throttle position sensor or idle air control valve. Check your ecu for codes and see if that indicates one of those first. Your car would only die from bad timing if it was pretty far off
@@TheZGarage ok thank you I'll check that out, I've been busy with the holidays so wasn't able to check. My car is completely dead now . I asked a mechanic and he said it could be a bad alternator. That a bad alt can cause the engine to stall and kill battery. What do you think? Need a second opinion , thank you 😊
The alternator being bad could cause it to die but it would take a while. You can easily check by using a multimeter to see the voltage at the battery when the car is running. Should be over 13.5 and less than 14.7ish
If it’s so out of time that it won’t start, depending on the engine I would stop trying to start it. You may to damage to the valves and pistons doing so.
Thats for the timing advance. For example, if your car needs to be set to 10 BTDC, you have 2 options. Option 1 is to set the gun's dial to 10 and then shine the light on the timing marks and align the car with the 0 mark. Option 2 is to set the gun's dial to 0 and then shine the light on the timing marks and align the car with the 10 mark.
No matter how far I advance my distributor the needle can’t even make it to the farthest mark on the left (for my engine it should be all the way on the right)
If that's really the case then you need to redo the timing on your car. I would double check the marks you're looking at are correct on the crank. What's the history of your motor? Rebuilt by a previous owner? Junkyard?
The Z Garage all I know of the engine(ka24e) being pulled is that there are new engine and trans mounts, but the transmission kind of loose like the rear main seal is leaking I think + there is missing bolts if the distributor was a tooth off would it run? If I was 180 out would it run? Thx
If it was to far off the car just wouldn't run. Easiest thing to do would be to take off the timing cover and move the crank until it's at TDC. Then look at the distributor and it should be pointed directly at the #1 plug
The Z Garage alright I’ll give that a try, I think the pulley with the markings was moved so the markings aren’t true anymore, also do I have to drain the oil before I take off the valve cover?
The only person to explain it and SHOW what the indicator looks like . THANK YOU
I think you are the first person on the internet to actually explain this step by step
Sadly most of these "how to" videos are for classic cars or trucks and I just want to learn to use a light to set the timing for my Nissan Quest Van to be honest you made it so simple So what I understand is that I set my dial to 15* and the mark on the balancer will be "0" or the other way around- how easy is that!
Great video. Actually show how to use the timing light. Most of these don’t describe the use of the light but only say how to ask the timing. Thanks.
I’ve relied on your channel a few times for my Infiniti M30, which has the same VG30E engine. Man your videos are extremely informative with no filler. Thank you very much
I can set the timing on my 92 Honda Accord thank you so much for the information
OMG I'm subbing to your channel, this was so simple to to the point, why can't others just explain shit this simply
I'm glad! Thank you!
Most helpful video on timing ive watched!
Thanks man!! Great explanation. I didn’t know that the yellow dot on the harmonic balancer would show alignment if it would be restarted or advanced. Sweet!!!
Nicely presented! Very informative. The adjustment for rotating the distributor looked to be fairly limited. Are there situations where you need to adjust it more than what that slot allows and if so how is it done? Just curious. Thanks for the vid!
If the distributor can't rotate enough to get to the spot you need, then you physically remove the distributor. It typically is a gear driven by the cam shaft. And you spin it to the next tooth and then set it back into the engine. If it's off by more than 1 tooth it probably wouldn't run
Thanks bossman needed to change my dizzy on my 305 camaro
"Definitely keep your timing cover on, I dont care if you think it looks cool, its important" made me laugh my ass off. Has anyone ever actually tried to run an engine with no timing cover 😂😂??? I dont think thats a thing, I suppose It could be done on a belt driven engine where there aren't any oil or coolant passages into the cover, but its just ridiculous to even think of
I see people do it all the time on Facebook. Specifically the upper timing cover since it's easy to access and let's everyone see the belt but then the bottom cover just keeps any debris that got in right next to the belt lol. I think it started with the 2jz since their belt is right at the front and you can get colored timing belts and clear timing covers
@@TheZGarage what's up I haven't talked to you or bugged you in a while lol but when I set my time and again today don't I need to all of my car back down a little bit before so to like 600 RPMs or so or do you recall because my car idles since I deleted all the aic's I flipped the screw on the throttle body upside down to be able to set my idle and it idles at about a grand most all the time but to set the distributor with the timing light shouldn't I back it down after it warms up to 600 because it won't idle when it's cold at 600 that's why I just left it at a grand if you can answer me back I would like to do this today but no rush LOL and thanks for all the help you've given me I still haven't turboed my car I only need one or two more items and steal something else to drive I've been daily this it's my baby and I put that lightweight flywheel in and that better clutch and it's been a champ I've been taking it to car shows I've raced a couple of little shitty Hondas LOL but it's my baby and I've been talking to Josh Hayes from Hayes performance racing he's got a 74 blue 260Z with a LS3 with a blower and a 6-speed man he's fast but I'm building a drift car I want mine to be more like yours I think plus that's what I've already bought and I'm going to need a little help with this tune I'm sure in the future but thanks for all the help
I usually aim for about 700-750 rpm when cold and then let the warm idle be whatever.
Briliant stuff straight to the point.
Good video thanks buddy.👍👍👍
How do you find your 20 degree mark. I just found an old KAL-LITE timing light in a house I just bought. I’m also a diesel mechanic apprentice so when I find tools I’m unfamiliar with I make myself familiar with them.
Nice, just what I was looking for, though I don't have a Z
Glad I could help!
Answered my question in less than a min
Does every crankshaft have the arrow and a distinct mark that represents the timing degree your car need to set to? In your video you set the timing light to zero degree and make sure every time the light flashes, the mark line up with the arrow. So the mark does not have to show up every time ? Just often enough to say the timing is somewhat on track ? How do you know to turn the distributor to the left or to the right (trial and error)? What if you set the timing light to 20 degrees, which mark then need to line up with the arrow. thanks
NOW i understand. Thank you.
Great video, thanks for the clear explanation :)
Good explanation
Question! Do I need to paint my timing mark. It looks like they are just metal indentions on the crankshaft.
You don't need to paint them. Just makes it easier to see but they are indentations on the metal
Xvid video exactly what I needed
Hey so could this be a reason why my Z31 can’t go past 3000 rpm while I drive? I’ve already replaced the Mass airflow sensor which needed to be done because it was broken. Runs healthier now and I can give it throttle but it bogs kinda like a fuel cut at 3000 rpm. Do do you think it is this? Or the timing on my TPS? Or some thing else?
The 3k cut is always the maf. If it's not the sensor then it could be the wiring. I replaced my connector with a new one and it made my car run better. Might be a good idea for you to try.
Yes to much slack in chain or belt making camshaft and crankshaft positioning sensor malfunction with a wrong read. Can be bad crankshaft or cam shaft position sensor or your car is in Limp Mode. My Honda Odyssey van did that same thing it was a failed hydraulic timing belt tentioner and timing belt was loose I fixed all that ain't had that 3000 rpm cut out nomore
I know this is a while now, I have egr, and idle control deleted now , someone said you need to unplug the TPs when you do the ignition timing , is that true ?
I've never heard that. But you do want to readjust your Tps after you do deletes if you have to raise your idle
I replaced the timing cover gasket on my ecoboost mustang. Had to remove crankshaft pulley to do so and other pulleys. Now car will turn over but not start. I’m afraid i messed up timing. Do i have to take the cover back off to see the chain?
Your timing wouldn’t be off if you just pulled the crank pulley. Did you remove the chain?
You may have damaged your crank angle sensor. I would check that.
... that's a pinch bolt. No cover will not cause damage you'll just see it wear out faster if in a dirty environment. No1 Plug. Top Dead Centre. Thxs.
Thanks for the video. very informative.
Did you ever look into the throttle body swap I was just wondering if you knew about it or if it would go smoothly they say something about the 240SX throttle body because it's 60 mm and the Nissan Maxima throttle body or the Nissan stanza the only issue anybody ever had is that coolant line but if you delete that coolant line which I am doing currently it with a lot of my hardlines most everything's already been deleted but I'm finishing it up now but long as you delete the coolant line are you have to do is flip it upside down and you're good to go and you have a 60 mm rather than a 56 I think I'm going to go for this I know where 2:40 is with everything still on it I'm going to try the throttle body out and see if it makes me get a little more air and I'm also doing the G35 alternator tomorrow because I have a old school Kenwood thousand watt amplifier on two 12 and a lot of LED lights I have also dug out all the wires so I can while back my factory fuel injector harness instead of the Nissan campaign I hate how they did that to so many cars with the fuel injector wiring that just seems unprofessional to me to add a bunch of janky ugly wires and not do it correctly what is batch mode that just sounds like not correct mode is What I Hear What I Hear That
I never really looked into the swap too much. I know a lot of people in Facebook have though so if you join the groups on there I'm sure someone will chime in!
Where is the best place to get what is it the bkr7e spark plug
Rock auto
Okay thank you I have the walbro 450 fuel pump and I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator it is really good I have K&N fuel filter ready what do you think about either a factory turbo ECU and maybe some 300cc 320 or 350 cc maybe fuel injectors for now like I said either on my python injection if it turns out to be okay I'm doing some research or the factory turbo ECU if it's any good do you think any of that may work out for me
I think the factory turbo injectors are 250cc. I would just get a set of turbo injectors to go with the turbo ecu. If you can't tune your ecu then you can't stick bigger injectors in it
What would happen to a z if it has bad timing. I think my 84 z31 turbo timing is off. Because my car starts up and runs but as it starts to warm up or just driving after a bit it dies and won’t cut on anymore. Until after it cools down. What could be a reason it’s doing this?
If it were the timing it would run bad all the time, not just after it's warmed up. What exactly is happening when it won't turn on. If you have it running will it just die on its own or is it only when it's been warmed up and you turn it off and then try to turn it back on?
The Z Garage I will turn the key and the motor will spin and spin and won’t starts. Like if I had no gas. But I recently changed the fuel pump almost exactly how u did in the video and I have full tank. I have even check fuel pressure and it’s all good there too. But I can very quickly repeatedly press the gas pedal when I try to crank it and it will run. But as soon as I let go it dies. I can even keep peddling it while pressing the break too and build boost and then let go of the break and I’ll drive from the boost and then after about 10 seconds of driving the car dies even tho my foot is still on the peddle. But when I first drive the car before being warmed or anything it will start up and dive normally. Some times it’ll take 2 crank or 3 to start but it’ll start. But like 10 min down the road or when it gets warms it shut off and won’t turn on. But also when I first start driving, the car will turn off every now and then I pull over and it turns back on. But as soon as it gets warms up that’s when it won’t turn on anymore unless I peddle it all weird.
Have you ran codes on the ecu? It sounds like a sensor or possibly vapor lock.
The Z Garage I have not. I don’t have a code reader so I might buy one ASAP. Which do u recommend
The z31s are too old for code readers. There is a screw on the side of the ecu and two LEDs that flash to give codes. Google "XenonZcar diagnostics" and it should explain exactly how to do it
Did you set the light to 0 or all the way to the left? Which is past 0
Thanks for sharing
If your timing light has a dial like mine did, it's best to set your light's dial to zero and then use the timing marks on your car
Hey man important question my 85 z is running at 220 degrees is that good?
If you're talking about coolant temp, that's too high. You want to aim for somewhere around 190. Radiators get clogged in these cars all the time so it's probably a good thing to replace it and the thermostat
@@TheZGarage thanks bro
I know you have your car set at 20 degrees on timing you hear people say turn up the timing a little what would be considered advancing it safely
I always recommend sticking to the factory timing because if you advance it too much you can cause engine damage
good video! thanks.
No good explanation on the degree dial I’m still lost so do I start on 0 or 10 were my truck should b. U said if I start on a degree it will be different on truck,how? I need explaining
If your truck should be set to 10 there are 2 ways of going about it. Either set the timing light to 10 degrees and then line the light up on the truck with its 0 degree mark. Or set the timing light to 0 and use the light to set the truck to 10 degrees.
I’ve been setting my timing wrong all along thank you for helping me understand
thanks, this video helped me
Thank you I
Good video 👍
Gentleman genius 👍🇺🇸
Did u connect the negative and the positive to the battery?
I'm so sorry, I thought this comment was about my megasquirt build! You can use the timing light directly on the battery terminals
@@TheZGarage ohhh okay I was so confused thank you very much!!
Sorry for the confusion! Good luck!
So can bad timing cause my engine to die? My car will start and run but then will die if I don't give it gas. Only time it stays on is when I'm giving it a little gas.
1986 z31 na
I would be more suspicious of the throttle position sensor or idle air control valve. Check your ecu for codes and see if that indicates one of those first. Your car would only die from bad timing if it was pretty far off
@@TheZGarage ok thank you I'll check that out, I've been busy with the holidays so wasn't able to check. My car is completely dead now . I asked a mechanic and he said it could be a bad alternator. That a bad alt can cause the engine to stall and kill battery. What do you think? Need a second opinion , thank you 😊
The alternator being bad could cause it to die but it would take a while. You can easily check by using a multimeter to see the voltage at the battery when the car is running. Should be over 13.5 and less than 14.7ish
That a good vid!
Was that a mechanical timing or vacuum advance timing?
The z31 uses electronic timing for the distributor meaning the ecu controls the spark advance based on load and engine speed.
is it possible my engine is so out of time that it doesnt start ? how do you adjust it then ?
If you're engine is so out of time that it won't run then you need to go back and redo the mechanical timing of the engine.
If it’s so out of time that it won’t start, depending on the engine I would stop trying to start it. You may to damage to the valves and pistons doing so.
@@AnglerDanNE it starts perfect on new spark plugs but then starts to misfire soon after
You never explain what the knob that turns is for on the back of the gun
Thats for the timing advance. For example, if your car needs to be set to 10 BTDC, you have 2 options. Option 1 is to set the gun's dial to 10 and then shine the light on the timing marks and align the car with the 0 mark. Option 2 is to set the gun's dial to 0 and then shine the light on the timing marks and align the car with the 10 mark.
He explains it pretty thoroughly at 1:04 but you probably skipped that part 🙂
Is it Leonard from the Big Bang Theory?!
Thnx a lot
now i know why it calls 'timing' saw some guy point this to deputy and get shot him self.
No matter how far I advance my distributor the needle can’t even make it to the farthest mark on the left (for my engine it should be all the way on the right)
If that's really the case then you need to redo the timing on your car. I would double check the marks you're looking at are correct on the crank. What's the history of your motor? Rebuilt by a previous owner? Junkyard?
The Z Garage all I know of the engine(ka24e) being pulled is that there are new engine and trans mounts, but the transmission kind of loose like the rear main seal is leaking I think + there is missing bolts
if the distributor was a tooth off would it run? If I was 180 out would it run? Thx
If it was to far off the car just wouldn't run. Easiest thing to do would be to take off the timing cover and move the crank until it's at TDC. Then look at the distributor and it should be pointed directly at the #1 plug
The Z Garage alright I’ll give that a try, I think the pulley with the markings was moved so the markings aren’t true anymore, also do I have to drain the oil before I take off the valve cover?
No. You can remove the valve cover but you might want a new gasket to change it out while you're there
I dont understand how it works
the lock washes freak me out
Tinha.ser em.portugues