Thank-you. know more now that I did. I may try it myself, old cars are really a labor of love. Videos like this are important to those of us who are willing to keep learning.
Great video as always guys. I know this is a very old video but just wanted to comment. I just got done rebuilding my 69 Javelin suspension and your video helped. I have a service manual but watching you guys go through it made it a lot more clear.
Nice job. I like to see guys clean and inspect thier parts when working on older cars. Some guys don't think about the fatigue factor on 45+ year old cars. They just throw them back together thinking its all good. Really nice job.
Had a 68 Rambler Rogue did the same job at home busted the camber bolt What a nightmare. Man, it was a dream to drive after no power steering with radial tires you hardly noticed. Before you hung off the side of the wheel just to turn. I did kinda missed the piano sound the spring made when it rubbed when you went over dips.
Thank you for doing a good explanatory video everything is about the same on my 65 amc rambler I'm building besides I have drums but your video helps with what bushing has to hold where and where everything goes back together when I loose track with so much parts all over the place
Thanks for the video! I'm going to be redoing the bushings and ball joints on my 65 Rambler Classic Wagon and will be using your video, along with the TSM, for reference. Very well done.
thank you for the vid. we just aquired a 68 javelin. it was well taken care of ...but at some point it will need work. your video will really come in handy. i appreciated your hard work here in both fixing your car and making the vid.
I had those calipers and they are notorious for leaking, pistons seizing up etc. I went through the same thing on a 69 Charger. I think those calipers are BW. I got the brakes off a later hornet I believe, for reliability and they have been trouble-free. I also added PS and PB. I want to enjoy the car, not fight with it every other time there is a cruise night or show.
I had a 68 Javelin, when I rebuilt the front suspension I learned from my Chilton manual the procedure is so simple, in order to compress the left front spring, jack up the right rear of the car, this will compress the left front , when it's compressed you can capture the spring using the factory tool that is simply a rod that has hooks on each end of it the hooks will engage the holes that are in the upper, and lower spring pockets , if you can't find the factory spring hooks you can improvise, seems like I used a chain and bolts hooked to the spring pockets, when you have the hooks/chain or suitable tool installed, let down the right rear this will allow the captured spring to be removed leave the spring hooks on so the spring remains captured for reinstallation . reverse the procedure for installing them ,
Had a '65 440H with Olds455 with short TH400 in it years ago. Trunnions should be filled with grease/vaseline every service, I fixed the thing installing brass inserts and grease nipples in them. Couple of grase gun pumps every time I greased the lower ball joints did the trick
Also, there was a kid in my HS auto shop class that pulled a spring out of a ford, which has a similar spring location, without a spring compressor. The spring shot out and hit him in the head knocked him on his ass about four or five feet from where he was working. He had a severe concussion and is lucky to have survived.
Little tip on setting ride height on AMC for those that think cutting or heating coils springs is the way to go,don't do it. It is best to determine the ride height of the original spring by measuring the coil from top to bottom. Do one side at a time. To get a fairly accurate measurement, put a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the car just enough to get the wheel off the ground. Remove the wheel and get the measurement. Doesn't have to be exact, but the closer, the better. Contact any good suspension shop and bring the old coils with you. They will measure the diameter of the spring "Wire". This, combined with your ride height measurement will tell them how to make your NEW coil springs. You tell them how much less ride height you want, let's say 2", and presto! You've got a new set of coils made to handle your front end weight of your car AND you have the two inch drop you wanted. Cost is usually between $150 and $200 for the new set of coils, and well worth it. Save up the money and do it right.
Nice, I have a pro street 69 javelin we are getting rid of the trunion setup and building new control arms to run adjustable coil overs on it right now
Hey, Nice video thx for posting. I used to have a Amc javelin 68 Thought of overhauling the trunnions many times, but never got around to it. Interesting to see all the parts separately though
great vid again guys! It is interesting to see how all the AMC suspension system goes together...it looks a lot tougher/tricky than a typical rear wheel GM upper/lower control deal...
The front discs look to be from a later model year. The 68s had solid front discs. At least the 68 AMX I had did. As long as you have the front suspension arms out be a good idea to box them if anybody else is going through the process
I often wonder it Roger Penske had anything to do with the suspension change in 1970? He was running AMC Trans Am Series team in 1969 when cars had turnnion and a year later new suspension, new head`s, new deck height on there blocks and new bore’s for blocks. I had a 68 javelin SST lol the hole tower holding the turnnion shifted up away from the frame , was rust to it weaken it, so got scrap the car and pick up a 73 Javelin with a 360 in it for like $700 bucks lol , I love 80`s the 70`s car so cheep and so many of them and smorgasbord of interchange bull parts for AMC in scrap yards. :)
Absolutely. Penske and all of them influenced the changes in 70, then 71. If you drive a 68-69, then a 70, then a 71 they were really improving in the handling department. Drive a 68-69,, then jump in a 71 or 72 and the difference is HUGE. This started as a sports car and quickly matured. If they had not been in the racing business those few years, the Javelin/AMX line would have remained pretty much the same other than engine and grille/light changes.
Great video, I really like the custom spring compressor. Are you worried that bolt is going to contact the the header pipe when you hit the gas and torque the motor on the mounts?
thank you. after collecting all the parts I needed to finish the front end. my project was put on hold until I could get my vehicle to me. I recently got my Rambler back and have been putting everything together. I had one question everything is back on except for the shocks I've noticed the spring is leaning in towards the inner fender. do you suggest recompressing the spring and then installing the shock?
I am in the process of rebuilding the trunnions on my AMC 1969 Hurst SC Rambler. I purchased the polyurethane bushing kit for the trunions, upper and lower control arms along with a thrust bearing kit for the trunions which included the o-rings and the plastic washer but not the brass retainer which looks like a small ring. It is at 12 minutes and 50 seconds into your video. So it seems to be missing from my kit. I've reached out to the vendor Galvin's AMC about this. It seems like that retainer clip prevents squeezing down on the polyurethane trunnion bushing too much, without it rotational movement between the knuckle and trunnion would be inhibited. Has anyone received the rebuild kit and not had this brass retainer clip included? Thanks
I have to disagree with you about the need for a lift/hoist. There is a much simpler way to build a tool that's made to be used on the ground, using a floor jack. Using two pieces of steel flat bar/plate about 10" long, 1 1/2" wide. Drill a hole at the top of each bar to allow for a nut & bolt. I think 3/4 or 7/8 (wrench size) should work. Just make sure the head of the bolt fits through the holes on the spring cup 'ears'. Drill another hole below the first, spacing the two at about 9 1/2" apart. The heads of the bolts are going to be used to hook the upper and lower spring cup 'ears'. The bolts only need to be about 2" long. Put the bolts and nuts in the holes you've drilled- bolt head facing in toward the 'ear'. Hook the top of the bar in the upper 'ear'. Then, with the wheel removed, you can use a floor jack under the caliper/drum to compress the spring until the lower bolt head can hook the lower 'ear'. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! Now make sure to tighten the nuts on your bolts as tight as you can get them- squeezing the flat bar and the 'ears' together. This will stop the spring from bending out of shape when you release the tension on the jack. If you don't do this you can expect major, major problems!!!! Release the tension on the floor jack and your compressed spring can now be removed and set aside in a safe place. Replacement is the reverse. Set the compressed spring on to the trunnion and align it with the upper body mount. Keeping a close eye on the positioning of the spring cups, slowly jack up the disc/drum with the floor jack until the spring is seated. Loosen the nuts and bolts, and remove the bars from the 'ears'. Release the tension on the jack and you are all done. NOTE. If you plan to decompress the springs off of the car, keep in mind they are about 18" long uncompressed!!!
Hey guys, I am doing this project as well and you guys really help out! However when I built the trunion and torqued the top bolt the whole thing seizes up and the outer race of the bearing can still spin. Any ideas?
where did you get your bearing kit from. I have restored everything on the front but I haven't had a lot of luck in finding the full kit for the bearings.?
watched the video again and noticed that you pressed the bushing out the bottom of the trunnion but dropped the new one in the top, can it go either way, is the new one different or was this an oops?
OK, I did mine and the instructions did say to put it in from the top. The spring removal was done without a spring compressor and was easy and safe, there is an easier way then what you did. they came out with no spring compressor and went back in with a spring compressor on it compressing only a couple inches, but if i had help i don't think i would need to compress them at all. I took them out and in alone using a floor jack and jack stands. . Here's a link if it works to the AMC forum .theamcforum.com/forum/trunnion-removal-for-v8-cars-only_topic72382.html?KW=trunnion
hi i both a 1965 amc rambler and looking for front suspension kits, spring coil, ball joint and interior seats. Could you help me find those parts? If you have any names or numbers or company names for these parts. Single Head light, 4 door, 6 cylinder, automatic.
I’ve been a mechanic 45 years, lve never seen a mechanic use there dirty shoes to force grease through the bearings, you just contaminated all the fresh grease in the bearing packer, all the grease in packer nds to be thoughouly removed and replaced with fresh grease
there is one thing to think about when comes to the header fiting. when hooker made there mock up test to see if the header fit good in a 68 body with trunnion and V8`s with square port, i sure they fit well they are good company, and when amc made the front suspension change and head change to dog lag they most likely start all over again with mock up test for a new header to see if the header fit good in a 70 body,,, so what do we learn? if you order header for a 68-69 Javelin with square port they will fit and if you order headers for a 70 body Javelin they don't fit right because they where never made to fit a 70 head motor in a 68-69 Javelin:) if you like a costume fitting set of dog lag headers to in a 68-69 body Hooker would be glad to make pay for them lol lol .... my point is they cant make a header to fit ever creation people come up with and less you can find a markit in like big blocks in Chevy Chevette or all so know as Chevy shovette!!! get it shove it in lol
Hooker lists one part number from 68-74 for AMC. They have several different finishes and tube sizes, but they may all be designed for later suspensions that don't use the trunion system.
I've built my spring compressor watched your vid a few times now I'm going in.thanks for the info.
Good luck
"See that broken coil? Probably didn't affect it a whole lot..." This ladies and Gents, is the attitude necessary when owning an AMC.
Nice presentation. Took the mystery out of trunion front suspension.
Thank-you. know more now that I did. I may try it myself, old cars are really a labor of love. Videos like this are important to those of us who are willing to keep learning.
Great video as always guys. I know this is a very old video but just wanted to comment. I just got done rebuilding my 69 Javelin suspension and your video helped. I have a service manual but watching you guys go through it made it a lot more clear.
Nice job. I like to see guys clean and inspect thier parts when working on older cars. Some guys don't think about the fatigue factor on 45+ year old cars. They just throw them back together thinking its all good. Really nice job.
Had a 68 Rambler Rogue did the same job at home busted the camber bolt What a nightmare. Man, it was a dream to drive after no power steering with radial tires you hardly noticed. Before you hung off the side of the wheel just to turn. I did kinda missed the piano sound the spring made when it rubbed when you went over dips.
Thank you for doing a good explanatory video everything is about the same on my 65 amc rambler I'm building besides I have drums but your video helps with what bushing has to hold where and where everything goes back together when I loose track with so much parts all over the place
Great vid...thank you for showing how to do this for a newbie...it was super helpful.
Informative video O455 - thanks for sharing - exactly what I was looking for 💯👍
Thanks for the video! I'm going to be redoing the bushings and ball joints on my 65 Rambler Classic Wagon and will be using your video, along with the TSM, for reference. Very well done.
thank you for the vid.
we just aquired a 68 javelin. it was well taken care of ...but at some point it will need work.
your video will really come in handy. i appreciated your hard work here in both fixing your car and making the vid.
Stock brake rotors were solid, not vented on '68'69 as I recall. Well done, sir
I had those calipers and they are notorious for leaking, pistons seizing up etc. I went through the same thing on a 69 Charger. I think those calipers are BW. I got the brakes off a later hornet I believe, for reliability and they have been trouble-free. I also added PS and PB. I want to enjoy the car, not fight with it every other time there is a cruise night or show.
I had a 68 Javelin, when I rebuilt the front suspension I learned from my Chilton manual the procedure is so simple, in order to compress the left front spring, jack up the right rear of the car, this will compress the left front , when it's compressed you can capture the spring using the factory tool that is simply a rod that has hooks on each end of it the hooks will engage the holes that are in the upper, and lower spring pockets , if you can't find the factory spring hooks you can improvise, seems like I used a chain and bolts hooked to the spring pockets, when you have the hooks/chain or suitable tool installed, let down the right rear this will allow the captured spring to be removed leave the spring hooks on so the spring remains captured for reinstallation . reverse the procedure for installing them ,
Had a '65 440H with Olds455 with short TH400 in it years ago. Trunnions should be filled with grease/vaseline every service, I fixed the thing installing brass inserts and grease nipples in them. Couple of grase gun pumps every time I greased the lower ball joints did the trick
Also, there was a kid in my HS auto shop class that pulled a spring out of a ford, which has a similar spring location, without a spring compressor. The spring shot out and hit him in the head knocked him on his ass about four or five feet from where he was working. He had a severe concussion and is lucky to have survived.
Dude w the denim jacket kicks ass
Little tip on setting ride height on AMC for those that think cutting or heating coils springs is the way to go,don't do it. It is best to determine the ride height of the original spring by measuring the coil from top to bottom. Do one side at a time. To get a fairly accurate measurement, put a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the car just enough to get the wheel off the ground. Remove the wheel and get the measurement. Doesn't have to be exact, but the closer, the better. Contact any good suspension shop and bring the old coils with you. They will measure the diameter of the spring "Wire". This, combined with your ride height measurement will tell them how to make your NEW coil springs. You tell them how much less ride height you want, let's say 2", and presto! You've got a new set of coils made to handle your front end weight of your car AND you have the two inch drop you wanted. Cost is usually between $150 and $200 for the new set of coils, and well worth it. Save up the money and do it right.
Nice, I have a pro street 69 javelin we are getting rid of the trunion setup and building new control arms to run adjustable coil overs on it right now
Hey, Nice video thx for posting. I used to have a Amc javelin 68
Thought of overhauling the trunnions many times, but never got around to it.
Interesting to see all the parts separately though
great vid again guys! It is interesting to see how all the AMC suspension system goes together...it looks a lot tougher/tricky than a typical rear wheel GM upper/lower control deal...
The front discs look to be from a later model year. The 68s had solid front discs. At least the 68 AMX I had did.
As long as you have the front suspension arms out be a good idea to box them if anybody else is going through the process
Correct on the rotors. Also original calipers have 4 pistons. You can buy new calipers.
Very nice! This car is going to look really cool
If any body is looking to build their own trailer a set AMC spindles work as well or better than anything from Tractor Supply or Farm and Barn
Thx for the video. Truly helpful.
Love the spring compressor. Do you have any plans that I could follow to make one like it?
I often wonder it Roger Penske had anything to do with the suspension change in 1970? He was running AMC Trans Am Series team in 1969 when cars had turnnion and a year later new suspension, new head`s, new deck height on there blocks and new bore’s for blocks. I had a 68 javelin SST lol the hole tower holding the turnnion shifted up away from the frame , was rust to it weaken it, so got scrap the car and pick up a 73 Javelin with a 360 in it for like $700 bucks lol , I love 80`s the 70`s car so cheep and so many of them and smorgasbord of interchange bull parts for AMC in scrap yards. :)
Absolutely. Penske and all of them influenced the changes in 70, then 71. If you drive a 68-69, then a 70, then a 71 they were really improving in the handling department. Drive a 68-69,, then jump in a 71 or 72 and the difference is HUGE. This started as a sports car and quickly matured. If they had not been in the racing business those few years, the Javelin/AMX line would have remained pretty much the same other than engine and grille/light changes.
When you put that brass washer on with your finger did the taper end go up or down? Thank you!
Great video, I really like the custom spring compressor. Are you worried that bolt is going to contact the the header pipe when you hit the gas and torque the motor on the mounts?
Great video!
thank you. after collecting all the parts I needed to finish the front end. my project was put on hold until I could get my vehicle to me.
I recently got my Rambler back and have been putting everything together. I had one question everything is back on except for the shocks I've noticed the spring is leaning in towards the inner fender. do you suggest recompressing the spring and then installing the shock?
I need to do this exact job to my 67 Marlin. what is the part number for the kits you used and what vendor did you use? Thanks.
I am in the process of rebuilding the trunnions on my AMC 1969 Hurst SC Rambler. I purchased the polyurethane bushing kit for the trunions, upper and lower control arms along with a thrust bearing kit for the trunions which included the o-rings and the plastic washer but not the brass retainer which looks like a small ring. It is at 12 minutes and 50 seconds into your video. So it seems to be missing from my kit. I've reached out to the vendor Galvin's AMC about this. It seems like that retainer clip prevents squeezing down on the polyurethane trunnion bushing too much, without it rotational movement between the knuckle and trunnion would be inhibited. Has anyone received the rebuild kit and not had this brass retainer clip included? Thanks
I have to disagree with you about the need for a lift/hoist. There is a much simpler way to build a tool that's made to be used on the ground, using a floor jack. Using two pieces of steel flat bar/plate about 10" long, 1 1/2" wide. Drill a hole at the top of each bar to allow for a nut & bolt. I think 3/4 or 7/8 (wrench size) should work. Just make sure the head of the bolt fits through the holes on the spring cup 'ears'. Drill another hole below the first, spacing the two at about 9 1/2" apart. The heads of the bolts are going to be used to hook the upper and lower spring cup 'ears'. The bolts only need to be about 2" long. Put the bolts and nuts in the holes you've drilled- bolt head facing in toward the 'ear'. Hook the top of the bar in the upper 'ear'. Then, with the wheel removed, you can use a floor jack under the caliper/drum to compress the spring until the lower bolt head can hook the lower 'ear'. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! Now make sure to tighten the nuts on your bolts as tight as you can get them- squeezing the flat bar and the 'ears' together. This will stop the spring from bending out of shape when you release the tension on the jack. If you don't do this you can expect major, major problems!!!! Release the tension on the floor jack and your compressed spring can now be removed and set aside in a safe place. Replacement is the reverse. Set the compressed spring on to the trunnion and align it with the upper body mount. Keeping a close eye on the positioning of the spring cups, slowly jack up the disc/drum with the floor jack until the spring is seated. Loosen the nuts and bolts, and remove the bars from the 'ears'. Release the tension on the jack and you are all done. NOTE. If you plan to decompress the springs off of the car, keep in mind they are about 18" long uncompressed!!!
Hey guys, I am doing this project as well and you guys really help out!
However when I built the trunion and torqued the top bolt the whole thing seizes up and the outer race of the bearing can still spin. Any ideas?
That is an awesome repair ! Do you have a business that does this? I have a '67 Marlin that needs that done....thx
No business.
THANK YOU
where did you get your bearing kit from. I have restored everything on the front but I haven't had a lot of luck in finding the full kit for the bearings.?
+Gary Wyckoff American Performance Products out of Cocoa Florida
where did you get the trunnion repair bearings and bushings? I can't find the bearing.
American Performance has a kit
Were did you get the spring tool
would a 69 rebel have the same suspension?
I don't know, you would have to look at it.
Is this the same for the 60 Rambler Six cross-country
no clue
Would you be interested in renting out your spring compression tool to a fellow AMC enthusiast?
Not worth the liability
@@Oldsmob455 ok, understood. Thanks!
Do you sale the spring tool if so how much
watched the video again and noticed that you pressed the bushing out the bottom of the trunnion but dropped the new one in the top, can it go either way, is the new one different or was this an oops?
It might have been an oops, I don't recall.
LOL, wonder if it mattered?
It's possible the instructions told us to install it that way, I just don't recall.
OK, I did mine and the instructions did say to put it in from the top. The spring removal was done without a spring compressor and was easy and safe, there is an easier way then what you did. they came out with no spring compressor and went back in with a spring compressor on it compressing only a couple inches, but if i had help i don't think i would need to compress them at all. I took them out and in alone using a floor jack and jack stands. . Here's a link if it works to the AMC forum .theamcforum.com/forum/trunnion-removal-for-v8-cars-only_topic72382.html?KW=trunnion
hi i both a 1965 amc rambler and looking for front suspension kits, spring coil, ball joint and interior seats. Could you help me find those parts? If you have any names or numbers or company names for these parts.
Single Head light, 4 door, 6 cylinder, automatic.
+Justin Naba kanter auto
Enjoyed the video. Sub'd. Thanks!
I’ve been a mechanic 45 years, lve never seen a mechanic use there dirty shoes to force grease through the bearings, you just contaminated all the fresh grease in the bearing packer, all the grease in packer nds to be thoughouly removed and replaced with fresh grease
A mechanic for 45 years and you have never seen a bearing packer? lol
were do you get your parts
American Performance for most AMC stuff.
there is one thing to think about when comes to the header fiting. when hooker made there mock up test to see if the header fit good in a 68 body with trunnion and V8`s with square port, i sure they fit well they are good company, and when amc made the front suspension change and head change to dog lag they most likely start all over again with mock up test for a new header to see if the header fit good in a 70 body,,, so what do we learn? if you order header for a 68-69 Javelin with square port they will fit and if you order headers for a 70 body Javelin they don't fit right because they where never made to fit a 70 head motor in a 68-69 Javelin:) if you like a costume fitting set of dog lag headers to in a 68-69 body Hooker would be glad to make pay for them lol lol .... my point is they cant make a header to fit ever creation people come up with and less you can find a markit in like big blocks in Chevy Chevette or all so know as Chevy shovette!!! get it shove it in lol
Hooker lists one part number from 68-74 for AMC. They have several different finishes and tube sizes, but they may all be designed for later suspensions that don't use the trunion system.