This is all great, high quality competent work. I learned quite a bit - thank you. I would personally prefer the power supply connector on the back panel - shorter, simpler cabling between the devices.
Yeah, actually during real use I came to the same conclusion. It would have been less bench space and tangle to build as you suggest. I also think that if one has the instrument that this CRT module comes from in a working state, a 2m power extension lead would work great too, you can have the instrument on the floor supplying power and the lead running up onto the bench where you are working on the CRT module. But then you need to have the big boat anchor of an instrument running right in the way there....
An elegant solution, thank you for the insight into the design process. I have worked on several of those vector displays (I use an HP 6624A quad output supply) - be sure to check for cracking around the pins on the boards used to connect wiring to the CRT connector and trace alignment coil. Regards, David.
This is not a feather in one's cap, to build such a big ass simple apprentice power supply. Moreover, it contains three bulky transformers and a thick, cumbersome housing. The same result could have been achieved in half an hour by soldering or connecting three 5V and 2x15V plug-in power supplies, and it would have been comparatively tiny with high efficiency to boot. Or is the device to be powered sensitive to the potential noise from switching power supplies? But I must give a huge compliment: The execution is absolutely perfect, beautiful, and solid! It seems that the goal was the construction itself, not just having a power supply.
now that work looks quite professional, thanks for sharing with us; I remember I built a ps with such voltages (+5, ±15) some 20 years ago, for easier experimenting with op-amp and ic stuff, but it can't in no way compete with yours here - neither could I find it (or have any clue what happened to it over the years) ^_^
You might want to sand off the anodized layer where the regulators touch the case. Anodization impedes thermal exchange. Big Clive had a video where he demonstrated that anodized aluminum is not great at conducting heat.
Hi There is some videos in youtube showing dell or hp psu hot plugs convert to bench power suply. They could run the psu hot plugs by connecting some pins but they just could run them to take a small curent not the maximum curent. Could you please tell me how to run my "hp 2450w hstns-pr16 platinum hot plug" and "hp 2650w hstns-pr42 platinum hot plug" into a bench power suply to take the maximum curent and power? Kind regards Kevin
I use a Japanese brand sourced locally here in Japan, I'm sure there would be an equivalent locally to you. Here's a link to what I used: www.a-one.co.jp/product/search/detail.php?id=28892
@@NearFarMedia Thank you very much for replying, that is very helpful. I found the one that ships from Japan on Amazon and something similar on eBay that's more local. Thank you very much indeed!
1V drift from no load to full load still seems a lot for a linear regulator. I think the divider doesn't draw minimum load. Because If I recall correctly from datasheets, LM317 may require up to 10mA minimum load, these values are for LM117. For 317, 120Ohm fixed resistor is often used, 240 may work 95% of the time, but this one must have been on the worse side regarding the minimum load.
Yeah, I just slapped it together using rule-of-thumb from the datasheet, It could be a function of the transformer output voltage drooping under load, or capacitor selection, etc. I'll poke away at it and make updates in the second video when I replace the transformers with switch-mode stuff.
That is probably being caused by those Poly fuses on the regulator outputs. I would fuse the transformer AC secondary instead. That way the entire circuit is protected, even from a bridge rectifier diode short. If you really want to get fancy, use the old LM723 and pass transistors. Then you can have adjustable current limiting and fold back plus you can sense the output voltage after the Poly fuse..
Sometimes you just need to get a quick solution done, great work. I wouldn't have spent the time to make a nice PCB for a quick and dirty solution. I would have been lazy and use protoboard. (Which will most like take nearly as long to if I'm honest, only the production and shipping time will be cut) That case looks really good and high quality, is this a product you can buy somewhere ? Preferebly outside of Japan. Greetings, Michael
I just bought the enclosure in Akihabara, so I'm not sure if it's available outside Japan. The Japanese company Takachi enclosures are available in some other countries, they are basically the Japanese version of the American Hammond enclosure company.
@@NearFarMedia Thanks, I will have a look at them. Akihabara is a literal gold mine for electrical components, very cool to be able to just go there and buy some parts.
@@NearFarMedia But all kidding aside, I really like your videos and am always jonsing for the next one. One of the best out there. Please keep them coming. Cheers from Yutashu!
Purple ceramic and gold plating. Always beautiful when paired together.
This is all great, high quality competent work. I learned quite a bit - thank you.
I would personally prefer the power supply connector on the back panel - shorter, simpler cabling between the devices.
Yeah, actually during real use I came to the same conclusion. It would have been less bench space and tangle to build as you suggest.
I also think that if one has the instrument that this CRT module comes from in a working state, a 2m power extension lead would work great too, you can have the instrument on the floor supplying power and the lead running up onto the bench where you are working on the CRT module.
But then you need to have the big boat anchor of an instrument running right in the way there....
An elegant solution, thank you for the insight into the design process. I have worked on several of those vector displays (I use an HP 6624A quad output supply) - be sure to check for cracking around the pins on the boards used to connect wiring to the CRT connector and trace alignment coil. Regards, David.
This is not a feather in one's cap, to build such a big ass simple apprentice power supply. Moreover, it contains three bulky transformers and a thick, cumbersome housing. The same result could have been achieved in half an hour by soldering or connecting three 5V and 2x15V plug-in power supplies, and it would have been comparatively tiny with high efficiency to boot. Or is the device to be powered sensitive to the potential noise from switching power supplies? But I must give a huge compliment: The execution is absolutely perfect, beautiful, and solid! It seems that the goal was the construction itself, not just having a power supply.
Excellent ! I made sort of the same power supply to run a Tek TG-501 because I don't have the TM series mainframe power supply
Nice! I restored a TG501A in a previous video. They are useful for calibrating scopes.
You gave me the idea to use a pcb for a killer front panel for projects. Thanks and Happy Holidays!
I've done the PCB front panel thing in some earlier videos, it does look really good.
Gut gemacht 👍!
☞ Die vielen Kleber auf Deiner Arbeitsfläche irritieren und lenken von den Objekten ab, die Du vorstellst/beschreibst...
Liebe Grüsse.
now that work looks quite professional, thanks for sharing with us;
I remember I built a ps with such voltages (+5, ±15) some 20 years ago, for easier experimenting with op-amp and ic stuff, but it can't in no way compete with yours here - neither could I find it (or have any clue what happened to it over the years) ^_^
Excellent solution!
really really nice. next time try to put some reverb on that 'fuull bridge rectifieerr'
You might want to sand off the anodized layer where the regulators touch the case. Anodization impedes thermal exchange. Big Clive had a video where he demonstrated that anodized aluminum is not great at conducting heat.
Yeah, I might go ahead and do that when I make the mentioned upgrade to remove the transformers.
I might have missed it in the video, but what amperage can this supply on each of the voltages??
Hi
There is some videos in youtube showing dell or hp psu hot plugs convert to bench power suply. They could run the psu hot plugs by connecting some pins but they just could run them to take a small curent not the maximum curent.
Could you please tell me how to run my "hp 2450w hstns-pr16 platinum hot plug" and "hp 2650w hstns-pr42 platinum hot plug" into a bench power suply to take the maximum curent and power?
Kind regards
Kevin
Thank you for a great video. The front panel looks especially good, may I please trouble you for a link to the silver paper you used?
I use a Japanese brand sourced locally here in Japan, I'm sure there would be an equivalent locally to you.
Here's a link to what I used:
www.a-one.co.jp/product/search/detail.php?id=28892
@@NearFarMedia Thank you very much for replying, that is very helpful. I found the one that ships from Japan on Amazon and something similar on eBay that's more local. Thank you very much indeed!
1V drift from no load to full load still seems a lot for a linear regulator.
I think the divider doesn't draw minimum load. Because If I recall correctly from datasheets, LM317 may require up to 10mA minimum load, these values are for LM117. For 317, 120Ohm fixed resistor is often used, 240 may work 95% of the time, but this one must have been on the worse side regarding the minimum load.
Yeah, I just slapped it together using rule-of-thumb from the datasheet, It could be a function of the transformer output voltage drooping under load, or capacitor selection, etc.
I'll poke away at it and make updates in the second video when I replace the transformers with switch-mode stuff.
That is probably being caused by those Poly fuses on the regulator outputs. I would fuse the transformer AC secondary instead. That way the entire circuit is protected, even from a bridge rectifier diode short. If you really want to get fancy, use the old LM723 and pass transistors. Then you can have adjustable current limiting and fold back plus you can sense the output voltage after the Poly fuse..
Sometimes you just need to get a quick solution done, great work.
I wouldn't have spent the time to make a nice PCB for a quick and dirty solution.
I would have been lazy and use protoboard. (Which will most like take nearly as long to if I'm honest, only the production and shipping time will be cut)
That case looks really good and high quality, is this a product you can buy somewhere ?
Preferebly outside of Japan.
Greetings,
Michael
I just bought the enclosure in Akihabara, so I'm not sure if it's available outside Japan.
The Japanese company Takachi enclosures are available in some other countries, they are basically the Japanese version of the American Hammond enclosure company.
@@NearFarMedia Thanks, I will have a look at them.
Akihabara is a literal gold mine for electrical components, very cool to be able to just go there and buy some parts.
@@gammaleader96 Absolutely. I wish we had a Akihabara in Salt Lake. I miss it.
TOTEMI II DESU NE! CHEERS FROM UTAH!
Oops machigai desu. I ment to say totemo...
Arigatou gozaimasuuuu~
@@NearFarMedia But all kidding aside, I really like your videos and am always jonsing for the next one. One of the best out there. Please keep them coming. Cheers from Yutashu!
Nice work. Thanks for the look.