Latest update, we converted to a more easily changeable adaptable T8F chain and sprocket combo that originally came with the kit. This, in addition to the upgraded Lithium Iron Phosphate battery has yielded a top speed of 40mph (up from 32!) with a quieter ride to boot! Super fun and super fast! Completely serviced with a 90 day warranty as this go kart is for sale on e-bay.
You're welcome! I will be posting the finished product of my latest build once this cold snap is over with. Won't be this formal of a presentation but still good info.
Thank you for the very informative video. If I may ask a question, I have the exact same controller, also with cruise control. I did like you mentioned and connected the cruise control wires to a push button switch, but it didn't work at all. Did you have to do anything with the other connections, like the brake wires, in order to make the cruise control work? Thank you.
a few tips. gooooood tips. #1. if you want better choice in sprockets, get a 12mm bore sprocket that slides over the shaft where your wrench normally fits and uses allen screws to lock into place where the flat spots on shaft are. cheap. stronger. and endless possibilities become available with chain types and tooth counts. #2. buy motor and controllers seperately. the motor is about 100 bucks and you can get a 200 amp controller thats programmable and capable of running on 18-90 volts dc and push 10,000 watts for about 150 shipped to the door. i have plenty of usable knowledge with these and also what they led me to eventually using later that make these small powerful motors look like power wheels. i'm sure you have some good info to share also.
@@descartes451 So the 50 tooth aluminum I got here: azusaparts.com/product-category/sprockets/ The 9 tooth for #35 chain I got at electricscooterparts.com, and the link for 420 chain double d bore is here: electricscooterparts.com/motor-sprockets-420-chain.html
Great project! I have been using the kunray kit on a moped conversion and noticed the acceleration was a bit sluggish in forward but brisk when backing up. After watching your video I switched the wires on the hall and phase wires. Going to test it tomorrow. Thanks for the great explanation.
@@TexasNEV After reversing it runs smoother and accelerates a bit faster. The nut doesn't back out anymore which is good. I need more torque up small hills and better acceleration. Did you consider various controllers for the Kunray motor? I am using the one that came with the kit...
@@descartes451 What is your gear ratio? Did you try using the speed / torque calculator info in the vid? I haven't used any other controller. This one seems to be paired very well. We're getting the 50A max out of it, no problems.
FYI: it is common for motor controllers to have an overcurrent/over-temp self protection shutdown feature. This can trip in certain conditions such as if the e-brake/regen braking heats up the controller too much. Additionaly, if the controller breaks mid-ride your brakes go out with it in most cases.... In short, you always want a mechanical or hydraulic brake system on an electric vehicle build of any type. Do not rely on the e-brake only.
Yep, that's the one nice thing about these brushless controllers.. I've yet to use any e-brake, regen is not on these controllers and offers little to no benefit on vehicles of this size. All braking is mechanical on this and all my other projects.
@@TexasNEV thank you for the video! It seems to be about the only truly useful review of this motor kit I can find. And yeah, anything smaller than a car for the most part doesn't really make sense to have an e-brake on cost-wise or difficulty-wise unless the controller already does it with no extra components. If you ever do put a e-brake in something you make; the simplest, easiest, and most reliable way I am aware of to make one is to put a high amperage mechanical switch on each winding of the motor and set it up to disconnect the winding power circuits from the controller and connect to a circuit with a bunch of high value power resistors. It is not flexible though which limits its usefulness. Set the resistance too high and you lock up the tires, set it too low and you don't get much braking force. It also heats the motor up. It would make a decent pseudo parking brake / kill-switch on a motorcycle to utv sized ev project though.
@@joshnabours9102 Thanks! Everyone needs to know that the e-brake wires on some controllers do nothing more than cut the power to the motor. They don't "brake" anything. :) Good tips!
Hi well done on the build. Can I please ask for the links to the videos of how to change battery from 2s2p to 4s1p please. And what bms did you use? Thank you
I used a LLT Power 50A Bluetooth enabled BMS: www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/16s-17s-18s-19s-20s-lithium-or-lifepo4-smart-bluetooth-battery-bms-with-50a-constant-current/
That is direct from the manufacturer but I got mine from Lite Speed Bikes. (Mentioned in the video). Also, here is a link to the conversion process I found: th-cam.com/video/kAznO_p_rEY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/WcqaAz1vjlo/w-d-xo.html how to take apart
I’m having problems with mine, it came with a “hard and soft boot” and a “study wire” both look like your hard boot if I unplug them doesn’t work at all if I leave the soft hard boot in it spins with just the on off switch
Eeek.. sounds like you got some stuff going on there.. either a controller issue or a wiring issue (throttle miswired?). I never used the study wire. I'd contact support.. :-/
@@TexasNEV thank you for your reply it took some re wiring but a simple mistake both of these weird wires have to be u plugged and And basically had to turn on and off the controller after you unplugged it which costed some hours 😂
Id put a vw camper totrod body on that, they cost £400 for a bare fibreglass shell which needs building and detailing, but the finished project could look awesome. If i can figure out a decent engine i have a crockart chassie which can do 100mph and think adding a mini vw bus ontop would be the perfect finish. That battery would be perfect with all 10 cells used and no mods required, and it could power a far bigger motor, but costs get ridiculous and i could drop a 70hp race bike engine in for similar.
Latest update: This go kart is for sale on e-bay, traderrje. It was upgraded to CST slicks, dual panel mount USB phone charger, upgraded power capacity buck converter, new Lithium Iron Phosphate 18 aH 87.6v battery and 250v charger. My son has gotten so tall and has outgrown it.. It runs perfectly and texasnev.com will give 90 day tech support.
It was a 45A controller, which is the correct one that matches w/ the motor. The BMS was a 50A. The battery pack was capable of far more current than what the motor needed, which is what you want. (45A x 72v) = 3240 Watts into the controller. You can push these motors harder with the motor cooling fins (out there on ebay somewhere) and ice in between hard runs. Love these little things.
Thanks for sharing! Great project and must have been fun to build. I’m building a similar kart for my kids and I’m wondering how you connected the electric brake cutoff on the esc to the mechanical brake? The circuit just needs to be connected but there are several ways that can be done. Cheers.
@@TexasNEV thanks for the response. So I guess the driver just has to make sure the throttle and brake aren’t pressed simultaneously to prevent burning out the motor.
@@markuspiro Given what I know now, I would do it differently. I like the 20series 0 parallel for simplicity, but if one cell gets weak, the whole pack gets weak. I'd use a smaller aH capacity battery and put a few in parallel Right now I've got Lithium Iron Phosphate cells for sale on my e-bay site under traderrje. I eventually built a 24s3p Lithium Iron Phospate battery from cells from BatteryHookup.com. We have been very pleased with that, it is smaller, lighter and while it is only 18aH, it is plenty for a day's fun.
Hello I watched your video and picked up a battery monitor just like the one you installed on this go kart for my current project. I am not very technically savvy when it comes to electronic stuff so I was having trouble trying to wire the shunt for the monitor on the ground side of the load. I seen you used the same bus bar for the motor leads. Is that where you are getting the load reading from or did you just use the bus bar as a place to keep the wires easier to manage if needed to replace?
Hi Michael, the location of the bus bar is pivotal for correct operation. It is the busbar (aka "shunt") that the meter uses to measure a voltage drop across a known resistance in order to calculate the current. If you are using more than 12v then you do not need to use the power connections listed on the meter as noted in the instructions. This should reduce the wiring necessary and make it easier to use.
I've just checked out your ebay page! Lovely build and inspiration for our school project. I am buying this exact motor and controller but struggling to find out if it can run off of 84V (the amount you charge a 72v 20s lithium-ion battery to). Will the motor and controller accept that or do you know if there is a high voltage cutoff?
Thanks! That is exactly what we are running and exactly what it is designed for.. A fully charged "72v" lithium battery IS 84v. Recently we upgraded to new Lithium Iron Phosphate cells in a 24S configuration (76.8v, 87.6v fully charged) and it works fine.. However I wouldn't go any higher. :)
...also I have stock on 64aH 3.7v Lipo cells (high discharge rate, perfect for EV / Go Kart / etc, and have a massive shipment of LifePO4 cells in 25aH ,50aH ,100aH and 200 aH configurations coming soon. This go-kart is for sale with all the recent upgrades and is ready to fly.
Simon, if you are an educational institution and this is for a project, I can offer a discount on batteries to your school through www.texasnev.com as well (site is not mobile friendly, but works best on a browser).
@@TexasNEV Thanks for the info. My supplier said the highest was 76v but I was sure others like yourself had used a 20S L-ion battery. And thanks for the heads up on the batteries and website info below. I'm in the UK so probably not going to work for me. But I've taken a lot of inspiration from your video! Not going to be able to use leaf batteries ;-) But thinking of building a L-ion one using vruzend connectors.
@@inchley The Nissan Leaf battery thing was "OK", it was cost effective but kind of heavy so I don't really go that route anymore. I am an importer so I bring in new fresh stock of cells, not repurposed ones now. Have fun and be safe!
That was so long ago I can't even find it anymore.. However, that being said, I wouldn't recommend that route. It was not worth the effort. I had one cell go bad and I ended up just getting rid of it. I'd go w/ whatever you can scrap together from battery hoookup, perhaps a 24S lifepo4 or 20s li-po. They will help you get the best bang for the buck.
The controller will limit the current, however, having batteries that are capable of delivering more current than is needed will prolong battery life and health as you are not overtaxing the discharge capabilities of the batteries. Regarding your battery question, 6x12v (lead acid?) batteries will work. I don't know what their max discharge current is but the manufacturer recommends 25-40ah of capacity so that's close enough. However, 6 12v lead acid batteries will be pretty heavy. I would recommend a LiFePO4 solution or a Lithium Ion battery.. The will both have much higher energy density for their given size, are lighter and are capable of very high discharge currents. I'd check e-bay for a lithium battery / charger combo.
Im going to do a trike i came to see this video to see how fast that motor is not that ill be running it that fast ill be doing about 1 mile a hour maybe 3 at most and wanted to know how long i could get it to last on as many 18650 cells i could put on it but still keep it light enough to carry and put in a trunk
That's a little beyond the scope of this video. However, if that is all you are doing, then I'd recommend a 24v 250W geared motor like this w/ a couple small 12v batteries... tinyurl.com/y29ehvah
I've not built batteries with those cells, but if it can handle Nissan Leaf cells I think you're fine. It's current limited to 50A anyway and 20s Lithium is 84V regardless of what kind of batteries you use. 20s is 20s.
Thanks.. I know it is a little long winded and people just like to see it run, but nearly every question anyone would ask, the answers are in here and in part 3 for the wrap up on sprocket choices. Part 4 is a personal facepalm to myself as well.
@@TexasNEV Thank you very much for your content. I'm about to embark on a journey similar to your Buggy conversion. If doing today would you use the 3000w motor with the controller it comes or get the motor separated and order a Kelly controller ?
@@charlesrg That 3kw brushless is good for a small go kart but I wouldn't recommend it for a full size Hammerhead / Trailmaster, etc etc.. Not enough power.. Check out the Hammerhead street legal conversion video and see what motor I used there.. I would go w/ a brushless version of the ME0709.
Oh and something else a few seconds of heat with a torch and it liquefies red thread locker but do not go crazy around seals a little heat goes a long way shockingly with thread locker
hi men awesome project my buddy and I are using this exact motor ! can I have the link for your charger it's seems to be a realy good price !(awesome video btw)
I have seen that these motors sometimes have self learn with a connection similar to hard boot, however my kit do not have self learn just as yours which i find odd. It seems to me that the motor is running rather inefficient and the throttle is also not as responsive as i would aspire it to be. When i plug in the hard boot it does however make the throttle more responsive.
Thank you for being so thorough! I will get to build one with my son now!
Very throurough- exactly what I was looking for. We are about to do this on a Razor
groundforce kart.
Good info and breakdown on the design decisions. Can't wait to see it in action!
See parts 2 and 3.. :)
Latest update, we converted to a more easily changeable adaptable T8F chain and sprocket combo that originally came with the kit. This, in addition to the upgraded Lithium Iron Phosphate battery has yielded a top speed of 40mph (up from 32!) with a quieter ride to boot! Super fun and super fast! Completely serviced with a 90 day warranty as this go kart is for sale on e-bay.
Thank you for the video! I'm building a bike with very similar electronics, and this information proved to be very helpful.
You're welcome! I will be posting the finished product of my latest build once this cold snap is over with. Won't be this formal of a presentation but still good info.
Thank you for the very informative video. If I may ask a question, I have the exact same controller, also with cruise control. I did like you mentioned and connected the cruise control wires to a push button switch, but it didn't work at all. Did you have to do anything with the other connections, like the brake wires, in order to make the cruise control work? Thank you.
Thank you, glad you liked it! Well you have to be applying throttle for the CC to work. Have you tried that?
I have two more even more amazing projects that I will be unveiling soon!
a few tips. gooooood tips. #1. if you want better choice in sprockets, get a 12mm bore sprocket that slides over the shaft where your wrench normally fits and uses allen screws to lock into place where the flat spots on shaft are. cheap. stronger. and endless possibilities become available with chain types and tooth counts. #2. buy motor and controllers seperately. the motor is about 100 bucks and you can get a 200 amp controller thats programmable and capable of running on 18-90 volts dc and push 10,000 watts for about 150 shipped to the door. i have plenty of usable knowledge with these and also what they led me to eventually using later that make these small powerful motors look like power wheels. i'm sure you have some good info to share also.
Great info and context, thanks! :)
Can you send a link to the sprocket you mentioned? I have been struggling with a double d bore and 420 chain
@@descartes451 So the 50 tooth aluminum I got here: azusaparts.com/product-category/sprockets/
The 9 tooth for #35 chain I got at electricscooterparts.com, and the link for 420 chain double d bore is here: electricscooterparts.com/motor-sprockets-420-chain.html
@@TexasNEV thanks!
FWIW I have a 72V 200A Bluetooth BMS NIB never opened for sale. Ordered a duplicate by accident. That is for the "next build"....
Great project! I have been using the kunray kit on a moped conversion and noticed the acceleration was a bit sluggish in forward but brisk when backing up. After watching your video I switched the wires on the hall and phase wires. Going to test it tomorrow. Thanks for the great explanation.
Yes, you're only running half throttle if you didn't reverse the motor properly.... :)
@@TexasNEV After reversing it runs smoother and accelerates a bit faster. The nut doesn't back out anymore which is good. I need more torque up small hills and better acceleration. Did you consider various controllers for the Kunray motor? I am using the one that came with the kit...
@@descartes451 What is your gear ratio? Did you try using the speed / torque calculator info in the vid? I haven't used any other controller. This one seems to be paired very well. We're getting the 50A max out of it, no problems.
@@TexasNEV 11 at motor 40 at wheel
@@TexasNEV think I should go up to a 60?
FYI: it is common for motor controllers to have an overcurrent/over-temp self protection shutdown feature. This can trip in certain conditions such as if the e-brake/regen braking heats up the controller too much. Additionaly, if the controller breaks mid-ride your brakes go out with it in most cases.... In short, you always want a mechanical or hydraulic brake system on an electric vehicle build of any type. Do not rely on the e-brake only.
Yep, that's the one nice thing about these brushless controllers.. I've yet to use any e-brake, regen is not on these controllers and offers little to no benefit on vehicles of this size. All braking is mechanical on this and all my other projects.
@@TexasNEV thank you for the video! It seems to be about the only truly useful review of this motor kit I can find. And yeah, anything smaller than a car for the most part doesn't really make sense to have an e-brake on cost-wise or difficulty-wise unless the controller already does it with no extra components.
If you ever do put a e-brake in something you make; the simplest, easiest, and most reliable way I am aware of to make one is to put a high amperage mechanical switch on each winding of the motor and set it up to disconnect the winding power circuits from the controller and connect to a circuit with a bunch of high value power resistors. It is not flexible though which limits its usefulness. Set the resistance too high and you lock up the tires, set it too low and you don't get much braking force. It also heats the motor up. It would make a decent pseudo parking brake / kill-switch on a motorcycle to utv sized ev project though.
@@joshnabours9102 Thanks! Everyone needs to know that the e-brake wires on some controllers do nothing more than cut the power to the motor. They don't "brake" anything. :) Good tips!
Hi well done on the build. Can I please ask for the links to the videos of how to change battery from 2s2p to 4s1p please. And what bms did you use? Thank you
I used a LLT Power 50A Bluetooth enabled BMS: www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/16s-17s-18s-19s-20s-lithium-or-lifepo4-smart-bluetooth-battery-bms-with-50a-constant-current/
That is direct from the manufacturer but I got mine from Lite Speed Bikes. (Mentioned in the video).
Also, here is a link to the conversion process I found: th-cam.com/video/kAznO_p_rEY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/WcqaAz1vjlo/w-d-xo.html how to take apart
I’m having problems with mine, it came with a “hard and soft boot” and a “study wire” both look like your hard boot if I unplug them doesn’t work at all if I leave the soft hard boot in it spins with just the on off switch
Eeek.. sounds like you got some stuff going on there.. either a controller issue or a wiring issue (throttle miswired?). I never used the study wire. I'd contact support.. :-/
@@TexasNEV thank you for your reply it took some re wiring but a simple mistake both of these weird wires have to be u plugged and And basically had to turn on and off the controller after you unplugged it which costed some hours 😂
@@TexasNEV oh another question how much do you think your cart weighed?
@@StudentTrader Glad you got it figured out. I'd say maybe 90 pounds? It was pretty light.
Id put a vw camper totrod body on that, they cost £400 for a bare fibreglass shell which needs building and detailing, but the finished project could look awesome. If i can figure out a decent engine i have a crockart chassie which can do 100mph and think adding a mini vw bus ontop would be the perfect finish. That battery would be perfect with all 10 cells used and no mods required, and it could power a far bigger motor, but costs get ridiculous and i could drop a 70hp race bike engine in for similar.
Latest update: This go kart is for sale on e-bay, traderrje. It was upgraded to CST slicks, dual panel mount USB phone charger, upgraded power capacity buck converter, new Lithium Iron Phosphate 18 aH 87.6v battery and 250v charger. My son has gotten so tall and has outgrown it.. It runs perfectly and texasnev.com will give 90 day tech support.
How many amps was the battery producing to the motor and controller
It was a 45A controller, which is the correct one that matches w/ the motor. The BMS was a 50A. The battery pack was capable of far more current than what the motor needed, which is what you want. (45A x 72v) = 3240 Watts into the controller. You can push these motors harder with the motor cooling fins (out there on ebay somewhere) and ice in between hard runs. Love these little things.
Thanks for sharing! Great project and must have been fun to build. I’m building a similar kart for my kids and I’m wondering how you connected the electric brake cutoff on the esc to the mechanical brake? The circuit just needs to be connected but there are several ways that can be done. Cheers.
Hello, I didn't do anything with the electric brake at all.. It's taped up and unused. :)
@@TexasNEV thanks for the response. So I guess the driver just has to make sure the throttle and brake aren’t pressed simultaneously to prevent burning out the motor.
Also, really interesting battery design. A bit too much for me so I’m going to try a few lipos in series.
@@markuspiro Well yeah, that hasn't ever been an issue for us, plus we have the overload protection / circuit breaker, etc.
@@markuspiro Given what I know now, I would do it differently. I like the 20series 0 parallel for simplicity, but if one cell gets weak, the whole pack gets weak. I'd use a smaller aH capacity battery and put a few in parallel Right now I've got Lithium Iron Phosphate cells for sale on my e-bay site under traderrje. I eventually built a 24s3p Lithium Iron Phospate battery from cells from BatteryHookup.com. We have been very pleased with that, it is smaller, lighter and while it is only 18aH, it is plenty for a day's fun.
Hello I watched your video and picked up a battery monitor just like the one you installed on this go kart for my current project. I am not very technically savvy when it comes to electronic stuff so I was having trouble trying to wire the shunt for the monitor on the ground side of the load. I seen you used the same bus bar for the motor leads. Is that where you are getting the load reading from or did you just use the bus bar as a place to keep the wires easier to manage if needed to replace?
Hi Michael, the location of the bus bar is pivotal for correct operation. It is the busbar (aka "shunt") that the meter uses to measure a voltage drop across a known resistance in order to calculate the current. If you are using more than 12v then you do not need to use the power connections listed on the meter as noted in the instructions. This should reduce the wiring necessary and make it easier to use.
Thank you!!
I've just checked out your ebay page! Lovely build and inspiration for our school project. I am buying this exact motor and controller but struggling to find out if it can run off of 84V (the amount you charge a 72v 20s lithium-ion battery to). Will the motor and controller accept that or do you know if there is a high voltage cutoff?
Thanks! That is exactly what we are running and exactly what it is designed for.. A fully charged "72v" lithium battery IS 84v. Recently we upgraded to new Lithium Iron Phosphate cells in a 24S configuration (76.8v, 87.6v fully charged) and it works fine.. However I wouldn't go any higher. :)
...also I have stock on 64aH 3.7v Lipo cells (high discharge rate, perfect for EV / Go Kart / etc, and have a massive shipment of LifePO4 cells in 25aH ,50aH ,100aH and 200 aH configurations coming soon. This go-kart is for sale with all the recent upgrades and is ready to fly.
Simon, if you are an educational institution and this is for a project, I can offer a discount on batteries to your school through www.texasnev.com as well (site is not mobile friendly, but works best on a browser).
@@TexasNEV Thanks for the info. My supplier said the highest was 76v but I was sure others like yourself had used a 20S L-ion battery. And thanks for the heads up on the batteries and website info below. I'm in the UK so probably not going to work for me. But I've taken a lot of inspiration from your video! Not going to be able to use leaf batteries ;-) But thinking of building a L-ion one using vruzend connectors.
@@inchley The Nissan Leaf battery thing was "OK", it was cost effective but kind of heavy so I don't really go that route anymore. I am an importer so I bring in new fresh stock of cells, not repurposed ones now. Have fun and be safe!
Im thinkin about doing this but gutting a fisher price power wheels(It would be hilarious) and completely revamping it
Well we've already gone through 3 sets of tires.. LOL Finally got some that last now (CST 6 inch slicks).. It'd better be a strong frame. :)
where did you find the link to disassemble the modules?
That was so long ago I can't even find it anymore.. However, that being said, I wouldn't recommend that route. It was not worth the effort. I had one cell go bad and I ended up just getting rid of it. I'd go w/ whatever you can scrap together from battery hoookup, perhaps a 24S lifepo4 or 20s li-po. They will help you get the best bang for the buck.
I am struggling to understand the battery situation, the controller says 50A, but your battery pushes 100A
Will 6 12v 22Ah batteries do the job?
The controller will limit the current, however, having batteries that are capable of delivering more current than is needed will prolong battery life and health as you are not overtaxing the discharge capabilities of the batteries.
Regarding your battery question, 6x12v (lead acid?) batteries will work. I don't know what their max discharge current is but the manufacturer recommends 25-40ah of capacity so that's close enough. However, 6 12v lead acid batteries will be pretty heavy. I would recommend a LiFePO4 solution or a Lithium Ion battery.. The will both have much higher energy density for their given size, are lighter and are capable of very high discharge currents. I'd check e-bay for a lithium battery / charger combo.
@@TexasNEV Thank you very much
@@Lou246 No problem, here to help.. I just uploaded "Part 4 of 3" on this series yes, you read that right)... :)
@@TexasNEV I will check it out asap
Could you please share the Aliexpress link for the BMS?
lt is lithiumbatterypcb.com but I get my BMS's from LIte Speed Bikes on E-Bay. Credits listed in the end of this vid. Great guy, very helpful.
Im going to do a trike i came to see this video to see how fast that motor is not that ill be running it that fast ill be doing about 1 mile a hour maybe 3 at most and wanted to know how long i could get it to last on as many 18650 cells i could put on it but still keep it light enough to carry and put in a trunk
That's a little beyond the scope of this video. However, if that is all you are doing, then I'd recommend a 24v 250W geared motor like this w/ a couple small 12v batteries... tinyurl.com/y29ehvah
Do you know can this controller handle 20series 18650, that would make 84V max?
I've not built batteries with those cells, but if it can handle Nissan Leaf cells I think you're fine. It's current limited to 50A anyway and 20s Lithium is 84V regardless of what kind of batteries you use. 20s is 20s.
@@TexasNEV That's true, thanks man!!!
Great content
Thanks.. I know it is a little long winded and people just like to see it run, but nearly every question anyone would ask, the answers are in here and in part 3 for the wrap up on sprocket choices. Part 4 is a personal facepalm to myself as well.
@@TexasNEV Thank you very much for your content. I'm about to embark on a journey similar to your Buggy conversion. If doing today would you use the 3000w motor with the controller it comes or get the motor separated and order a Kelly controller ?
@@charlesrg That 3kw brushless is good for a small go kart but I wouldn't recommend it for a full size Hammerhead / Trailmaster, etc etc.. Not enough power.. Check out the Hammerhead street legal conversion video and see what motor I used there.. I would go w/ a brushless version of the ME0709.
@@TexasNEV Its for our kids, not for adults. Amazon has 3kw + controller for $179 wondering if I should go with that or get a Kelly controller
@@TexasNEV definitely saw your hammerhead conversion. That will be our next project after I check on the legalities in FL.
Oh and something else a few seconds of heat with a torch and it liquefies red thread locker but do not go crazy around seals a little heat goes a long way shockingly with thread locker
THx, yeah I've been using the blue, haven't tried the red yet.
hi men awesome project my buddy and I are using this exact motor ! can I have the link for your charger it's seems to be a realy good price !(awesome video btw)
Thanks! Yeah it is a really nice charger.. Very cool to be able to vary the current like that.
I have seen that these motors sometimes have self learn with a connection similar to hard boot, however my kit do not have self learn just as yours which i find odd. It seems to me that the motor is running rather inefficient and the throttle is also not as responsive as i would aspire it to be. When i plug in the hard boot it does however make the throttle more responsive.
In regards to your comments on it being inefficient and the throttle not being as responsive, see here: th-cam.com/video/rvXdFsQWaAE/w-d-xo.html
What footpedal did you use?
It came with the kit. They do sell the Kunray motor w/ controller and footpedal all together.
Here is part 2: th-cam.com/video/VfO2CUz_0RE/w-d-xo.html
Here is part 3: th-cam.com/video/TxVEAFUn_jw/w-d-xo.html