I follow CAT's how-to video and show how I did it and where I deviated from their instructions. Official CAT repair video here: • Servicing Seals - Cat ...
Dude You did the servicing well ! CAT instruction videos are very informative and easy to understand. ! I am from India and a distributor(representing ) of CAT pumps in India. CAT pumps are highly efficient and has a pretty long life..The design and engineering behind it is very good. Some tips I wanna share with you : keep changing the valves in 1500 hours and seals (low pressure, high pressure and oil seals) after every 3000 hours of pump use. This will keep the pump running.
Take the pressure hose off the pump (the quick connect, the one with the wand on the other end) and then use some "pump saver" to "flush" it out. There are a bunch of brands but I spray some in and then pull the engine over once (don't start it!) to make sure the pump gets a nice coating inside. You don't have to do this if you are going to use it the next day or something but I pretty much do it every time I use it as I can go months without using it. www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22007-Pressure-Washer-Protector/dp/B00NEG6KVU/ref=asc_df_B00NEG6KVU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385179052464&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4005141517221068825&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026424&hvtargid=pla-845903676866&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77282508623&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385179052464&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4005141517221068825&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026424&hvtargid=pla-845903676866
Thank you thankyou thankyou , I have the exact Pressure washer and one guy told me 300$ to change those same seals ,I Almost had 3 strokes, but I'm happy I found your video.well done
You dont have to shut the water OFF just to connect your wand. I also hold wand when starting, and hold wand (relese pressure) when shutting down. Idle down, release pressure, shut down. The pump will thank you. (40 years ive been using them) Diddnt know Cat made a video, i was looking around and diddnt find it. Thank you for assuring me it exists.
Don't let water heat up in your pumps people. You must have water flowing all the time. Yes there is a small grace period of 30 seconds to 2 mins but for me maybe 30 seconds. When you don't have the trigger depressed you must have a bypass/ recirculator system so the water in your pump keeps moving... or on any power washer simply take off the tip, squeeze the trigger in and use one of those orange ratchet clamps at home depot from the electrical department so the water keeps flowing and you don't destroy your pump. You can let everything run like that until you run out of gas. The other trick is starting your machine like that. NO tip on the end of your wand/gun, have the orange clamp on so the water is flowing then start your machine and everything is easy. people try and start the machine with the tip in and holding the trigger or try and start it with no water flow and everything trapped. You most likely will get majot kick back in the engine and it will wanna rip your hand off or the engine won't turn. Turn on the brains and be safe.
Your exactly right...I swear that pump was running maybe 10 seconds before I realized I had cut the hose off between washing "sessions" and that's all it took to burn the seals up...
How do you remove the oil crankcase seal behind the ceramic plunger, that prevents water from entering the crankcase? It's very difficult even with a pick.
Sorry but I don't know...I didn't have to replace those seals. Here is the CAT pumps channel hopefully you can find something in there: th-cam.com/channels/xIvT_VUVwrGI1OH-m6nfMQ.html
MY cat pump stopped spraying i found a new pump for 250 bucks im just gonna replace the hole thing cause i dont know whats wrong with it lol.mine is 15 years old to.
Yes no problems and I use this thing a lot (for a homeowner). I would say since that video I probably ran between 15 and 20 full tanks of fuel through it to give you an idea of how much I've used it since then.
Big Thanks for the DIY video! I Just had this same issue happen while I was pressure washing my 5th Wheel camper and Driveway, there was a little trail of milky oil in my driveway when I came back around the camper, so I shut him down. I could clearly see milky oil in the site glass. Do you believe it’s possibly pushed the crankshaft seal out up on the engine end of the pump? If so, I may need to order a new crankshaft seal for this thing also. It has the Hoda engine, and bought it used for $100 without wand or hose, so its definitely worth a small investment.
I doubt it but you should be able to look down in there between the pump and the engine and see if it's leaking (on mine there is a small airgap betweeen the pump and the engine due to simpson's adapter plate from Honda to Cat pump).
@@BubbasWorkshop thanks for fast reply, I’ll have look and see, but I went ahead and added the pump crank seal to my order for an extra $6.18 (Pt # 55337 for those interested) I was already paying the shipping cost anyway, so I called and had them stick it into the same envelope with the other seals I had just ordered.
After I removed it, I noticed my top left allen bolt was covered in fluid that appeared to be hydraulic. Any ideas on what might cause this or how to remedy? Terrific video, thank you
My only guess is that one of the seals is leaking? If you are taking it apart to replace seals hopefully that will correct it. Also, if you overfill the oil it will get hot and leak out of the vent hole at the top of the fill plug.
At 1930 in your video you start rebuilding the Ceramic Pistons the white sleeve around the piston is what I'm looking for an issue, I have a lot of fit looseness around the piston and in the counterbore, just was wondering if that is worn or normal. You used a pick to remove your white piece.
sorry i just saw this comment...from what i remember it wasn't a super tight fit and they were more of a guide than a seal (but i'm guessing by now you've figured it out!).
I don’t understand if you had water in the pump oil why you didn’t replace the the seals to the main case? You didn’t solve the issue with water mixing with the oil🤔🤦🏻
I'm not real pleased with the Cat pump I purchased. Its already needing a unloader valve. I very seldom leave my washer idling without spraying as it is a hot water one. But after maybe 20 hours the unit messed up. I have had better luck with GENERAL PUMPS.
Good teardown...but weak rebuild. You probably should know that once a torque wrench releases it’s at the preset value. Re-popping it past the release and then adding another partial turn is dumb. You probably have the torque value between 62 and 65 at that point. Maybe the last guy who built/rebuilt it did the same thing and that’s why the factory says to check for cracks.
Hello Bubba, We recently watched your video at :th-cam.com/video/4zjXkxC4AQo/w-d-xo.html Do you have any knowledge or experience to resolve overheating CAT pressure washer pumps? We own a CAT Pump Model 2SFX30GS. It has developed an overheating problem. It overheats after 3 mins run time. Our Pump Tech replaced Valves, Valve seats, Seals, Bearings, Gaskets and Unloader. Can you offer some advice as to why overheating still occurs? What else can we do to stop the overheating. The original overheating event melted the Oil Fill Red Cap. Thank you. Regards.
The only thing I can think of is to make sure you have oil in the pump and that you are not letting it run without spraying water...if you let it run without spraying it will overheat pretty quickly. That's about all I know (I'm not an expert!). Thanks!
@@BubbasWorkshop Gd day Bubba. Thanks for sharing those opinions. We made all those checks previously with the same outcome. By a process of elimination we're going to attempt running the unit with the pump header removed to determine if the heat is generated in the crankcase.
@@lankimo23 Might it be that you don't have an adequate water supply, I'm looking into getting a washer and my well only give me about 3 gallons a minute.
Hello and thanks for checking in@@charleschapman2428 We did check the water flow and that was at specification 3 gpm (11 LPM). We eventually did two things (1) we ran external temp measurements on the pump casing while in operation over 15 mins and found that the area over Piston #1 (Closer to sight level) became heated well over acceptable temp range and hotter than areas ove Pistons #2 and #3. . This indicated that the problem existed within the section of the pump housing Piston #1. (2) We replaced the pump with a brand new pump of the next higher level - 2500 psi. We are yet to get back to the "old" pump which we believe can be fixed. Thanks again. BTW, prior to putting the new pump to work we ran similar Temp mesurements over its casing while it ran for 30 mins. These we'll keep as baseline data for future reference. Will share the readings with you at some time.
BUBBA How Come you Did NOT Change the SEALS BELOW the CERAMIC PISTONS in the BLUE ALUMINUM BODY - GOT A OLDER RIDGID 3300 PSI RD80702 with Came CAT PUMP/Subaru Engine , and the Pump OIL was MILKY - i Suspect the SEALS Below the CERAMIC Plungers are WORN Replaced the SEALS Like you DID but Stopped SHORT of the SEALS at the Ceramic PLUNGERS
I can't remember if those are seals are just a dark cylinder..hard to tell. Either way, I just replaced everything that came with the rebuild kit so I guess CAT doesn't think those ever wear out because they aren't in the kit.
Dude You did the servicing well ! CAT instruction videos are very informative and easy to understand. ! I am from India and a distributor(representing ) of CAT pumps in India. CAT pumps are highly efficient and has a pretty long life..The design and engineering behind it is very good. Some tips I wanna share with you : keep changing the valves in 1500 hours and seals (low pressure, high pressure and oil seals) after every 3000 hours of pump use. This will keep the pump running.
How should you store a pressure washer with a cat pump?
Take the pressure hose off the pump (the quick connect, the one with the wand on the other end) and then use some "pump saver" to "flush" it out. There are a bunch of brands but I spray some in and then pull the engine over once (don't start it!) to make sure the pump gets a nice coating inside. You don't have to do this if you are going to use it the next day or something but I pretty much do it every time I use it as I can go months without using it.
www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22007-Pressure-Washer-Protector/dp/B00NEG6KVU/ref=asc_df_B00NEG6KVU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385179052464&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4005141517221068825&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026424&hvtargid=pla-845903676866&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77282508623&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385179052464&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4005141517221068825&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026424&hvtargid=pla-845903676866
Very good video. I bought a used pressure washer today for super cheap, Honda engine with a cat pump
Thank you thankyou thankyou , I have the exact Pressure washer and one guy told me 300$ to change those same seals ,I Almost had 3 strokes, but I'm happy I found your video.well done
Awesome! Glad it helped👍
For 300 you can buy the entire pump new. Blue part, and manifold.
You dont have to shut the water OFF just to connect your wand.
I also hold wand when starting, and hold wand (relese pressure) when shutting down.
Idle down, release pressure, shut down.
The pump will thank you. (40 years ive been using them)
Diddnt know Cat made a video, i was looking around and diddnt find it. Thank you for assuring me it exists.
Yes I figured that out lol...didn't cost much to learn that lesson (actually it did!)
Don't let water heat up in your pumps people. You must have water flowing all the time. Yes there is a small grace period of 30 seconds to 2 mins but for me maybe 30 seconds. When you don't have the trigger depressed you must have a bypass/ recirculator system so the water in your pump keeps moving... or on any power washer simply take off the tip, squeeze the trigger in and use one of those orange ratchet clamps at home depot from the electrical department so the water keeps flowing and you don't destroy your pump. You can let everything run like that until you run out of gas. The other trick is starting your machine like that. NO tip on the end of your wand/gun, have the orange clamp on so the water is flowing then start your machine and everything is easy. people try and start the machine with the tip in and holding the trigger or try and start it with no water flow and everything trapped. You most likely will get majot kick back in the engine and it will wanna rip your hand off or the engine won't turn. Turn on the brains and be safe.
Your exactly right...I swear that pump was running maybe 10 seconds before I realized I had cut the hose off between washing "sessions" and that's all it took to burn the seals up...
Sound wisdom
We use vasoline on any orings, seals.
Thanks for the video! I am going to try to rebuild mine it has the same problem as yours water mixing with oil.
Mine is still working great! Make sure you use the cat branded oil they sell it at Home Depot 👍
How do you remove the oil crankcase seal behind the ceramic plunger, that prevents water from entering the crankcase? It's very difficult even with a pick.
Sorry but I don't know...I didn't have to replace those seals. Here is the CAT pumps channel hopefully you can find something in there: th-cam.com/channels/xIvT_VUVwrGI1OH-m6nfMQ.html
MY cat pump stopped spraying i found a new pump for 250 bucks im just gonna replace the hole thing cause i dont know whats wrong with it lol.mine is 15 years old to.
Did the ceramic pistons hold up to date? I'm wondering if the small cracks at the base ever turned into a larger problem.
Yes no problems and I use this thing a lot (for a homeowner). I would say since that video I probably ran between 15 and 20 full tanks of fuel through it to give you an idea of how much I've used it since then.
@@BubbasWorkshopThat is great, thanks for getting back with the answer promptly.
Big Thanks for the DIY video! I Just had this same issue happen while I was pressure washing my 5th Wheel camper and Driveway, there was a little trail of milky oil in my driveway when I came back around the camper, so I shut him down. I could clearly see milky oil in the site glass. Do you believe it’s possibly pushed the crankshaft seal out up on the engine end of the pump? If so, I may need to order a new crankshaft seal for this thing also. It has the Hoda engine, and bought it used for $100 without wand or hose, so its definitely worth a small investment.
I doubt it but you should be able to look down in there between the pump and the engine and see if it's leaking (on mine there is a small airgap betweeen the pump and the engine due to simpson's adapter plate from Honda to Cat pump).
@@BubbasWorkshop thanks for fast reply, I’ll have look and see, but I went ahead and added the pump crank seal to my order for an extra $6.18 (Pt # 55337 for those interested) I was already paying the shipping cost anyway, so I called and had them stick it into the same envelope with the other seals I had just ordered.
After I removed it, I noticed my top left allen bolt was covered in fluid that appeared to be hydraulic. Any ideas on what might cause this or how to remedy? Terrific video, thank you
My only guess is that one of the seals is leaking? If you are taking it apart to replace seals hopefully that will correct it. Also, if you overfill the oil it will get hot and leak out of the vent hole at the top of the fill plug.
@@BubbasWorkshop Thanks. I am doing full seals and valves and will monitor.
At 1930 in your video you start rebuilding the Ceramic Pistons the white sleeve around the piston is what I'm looking for an issue, I have a lot of fit looseness around the piston and in the counterbore, just was wondering if that is worn or normal. You used a pick to remove your white piece.
sorry i just saw this comment...from what i remember it wasn't a super tight fit and they were more of a guide than a seal (but i'm guessing by now you've figured it out!).
@@BubbasWorkshop Yes I figured that there was too much slop and ordered new ones and it does make a difference, just fyi.
I don’t understand if you had water in the pump oil why you didn’t replace the the seals to the main case? You didn’t solve the issue with water mixing with the oil🤔🤦🏻
Those seals do go to the main case... Basically they are like piston rings if you think about it like an engine 👍
Hi what is the seal kit number for the 4spx32g1i
www.kleen-ritecorp.com/c-1098-cat-pump-repair-kits.aspx look on that page... That is where I bought my kit.
@@BubbasWorkshop thanks 👍
Hey that’s one seal kit there another kit for whole manifold
Thanks but I hope I never need it!
25 seconds..good bye pump...
I'm not real pleased with the Cat pump I purchased. Its already needing a unloader valve. I very seldom leave my washer idling without spraying as it is a hot water one. But after maybe 20 hours the unit messed up. I have had better luck with GENERAL PUMPS.
Good teardown...but weak rebuild. You probably should know that once a torque wrench releases it’s at the preset value. Re-popping it past the release and then adding another partial turn is dumb. You probably have the torque value between 62 and 65 at that point. Maybe the last guy who built/rebuilt it did the same thing and that’s why the factory says to check for cracks.
It's a bad habit....luckily I got away with it on this rebuild (it's been working fine).
Bit of advice, never use anything metal to remove o-rings .
I live on the edge :)
Hello Bubba, We recently watched your video at :th-cam.com/video/4zjXkxC4AQo/w-d-xo.html Do you have any knowledge or experience to resolve overheating CAT pressure washer pumps? We own a CAT Pump Model 2SFX30GS. It has developed an overheating problem. It overheats after 3 mins run time. Our Pump Tech replaced Valves, Valve seats, Seals, Bearings, Gaskets and Unloader. Can you offer some advice as to why overheating still occurs? What else can we do to stop the overheating. The original overheating event melted the Oil Fill Red Cap. Thank you. Regards.
The only thing I can think of is to make sure you have oil in the pump and that you are not letting it run without spraying water...if you let it run without spraying it will overheat pretty quickly. That's about all I know (I'm not an expert!). Thanks!
@@BubbasWorkshop Gd day Bubba. Thanks for sharing those opinions. We made all those checks previously with the same outcome. By a process of elimination we're going to attempt running the unit with the pump header removed to determine if the heat is generated in the crankcase.
@@lankimo23 Might it be that you don't have an adequate water supply, I'm looking into getting a washer and my well only give me about 3 gallons a minute.
Hello and thanks for checking in@@charleschapman2428 We did check the water flow and that was at specification 3 gpm (11 LPM). We eventually did two things (1) we ran external temp measurements on the pump casing while in operation over 15 mins and found that the area over Piston #1 (Closer to sight level) became heated well over acceptable temp range and hotter than areas ove Pistons #2 and #3. . This indicated that the problem existed within the section of the pump housing Piston #1. (2) We replaced the pump with a brand new pump of the next higher level - 2500 psi. We are yet to get back to the "old" pump which we believe can be fixed. Thanks again. BTW, prior to putting the new pump to work we ran similar Temp mesurements over its casing while it ran for 30 mins. These we'll keep as baseline data for future reference. Will share the readings with you at some time.
BUBBA
How Come you Did NOT Change the SEALS BELOW the CERAMIC PISTONS in the BLUE ALUMINUM BODY - GOT A OLDER RIDGID 3300 PSI RD80702 with Came CAT PUMP/Subaru Engine , and the Pump OIL was MILKY - i Suspect the SEALS Below the CERAMIC Plungers are WORN
Replaced the SEALS Like you DID but Stopped SHORT of the SEALS at the Ceramic PLUNGERS
I can't remember if those are seals are just a dark cylinder..hard to tell. Either way, I just replaced everything that came with the rebuild kit so I guess CAT doesn't think those ever wear out because they aren't in the kit.
@@BubbasWorkshop i will test the Unit 2021 , got it last year in the FALL /.it has Fuel Injection - the Subaru Engine