Thank you. Thank you. I find myself looking through your videos, when i run into a problem with my knitting, and find the solution. Thank you for putting out all these gems.
BLESS YOU...I am working on a raglan sweater with M1 increases and now I do it the right way every time because you taught me how to figure it out thinking right vs left instead of front this and back that which I could never remember. You are the BEST knitting teacher on the web.
Roxanne, you really teach WHY to do something, in addition to HOW to do it. You give me so much confidence in my knitting. Thank you for all the effort you put into helping us become better at our craft.
When I want to learn and retain information regarding knitting I always search for your videos. The instructions and detailed examples of what to do and not what to do and the why is just as important and if not more so at times than just showing how to do this or that. Thank you for your knowledge and for sharing.
Thank you Roxanne. This was a great help to me and I’ve been knitting for 70 years! I always increased knitting purling into front and back of a stitch
I love how you say "you don't want to do this" LOL I'm so stupid i could not figure what I was doing wrong with this increase. I'm new to knitting but I knew something was so wrong with this increase leaving big holes. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! You have no idea the struggle I was going through. I got this now!
Thank you for explaining the reasoning behind the M1 stitches. I always find it helpful to know a stitch is created a certain way so I don't have to stop knitting and look at the directions. I love your videos because you show the stitches and explain why they are made a particular way. Thank you, thank you.
Great video! I never knew that the increases should lean toward the part of the knitting that is getting bigger. Very easy rule to remember. Thank you!
Absolutely agreed that this is one of the best explanations to make this sooo much easier to think and do!! Changed my whole happiness factor with sock toe ups!😊
Another excellent video. I find the quick limerick “I left thru the back door (M1L) so, I’m right up front (M1R), to be helpful reminder. More importantly is being empowered by understanding the principles of why an Inc should lean left or right. So you can chose the Inc option you find desirable for your project. And thanks for your inspiring & impactful contributions!
This video was made a long time ago, but you are always my ‘go to’ when I need clarification on a ‘how to’, as well as many other questions I may have. Thank you for your body of work 🤩
Easy to remember rules, yes, thank you! When doing the lifted increase always lift from front to back - with the left needle for M1L and with the right needle for M1R 💡💡💡. I’m a new knitter and was always futzing with the lifted increases to get them mounted correctly. No more!
I'm glad you've got it worked out. :-) (FYI, a "lifted increase" is actually a different increase than a M1 increase. Knitting terms are often ambiguous! There can be multiple names for a single technique, and some names are often applied to multiple techniques)
Thank you in midst of shawl requiring m1l and m1r. Fumbling thru it, frogging , trying again UNTIL late one night I found clarity listening to you . Other videos were good but yours was an aha moment . Thank you more time to knit and kissed frogs goodbye ( already had the prince)
Thank you! I thought I was the only one to be very very annoyed at patterns that don't tell me if the M1 had to be left or right and at me for always forgetting which one I have o make while knitting. It's a simple solution, likw someone else already said in the comments, using left/right instead of front/back, but in years since I started learning to knit, no one showed the trick to me. So again, thank you.
You probably weren't shown the trick because no one knew the trick themselves. :-) If they don't specify M1L or M1R and just say "m1" that probably means that the designer doesn't think it matters (either because it's not a situation in which mirrored increases are needed, or because it's a situation the designer thinks mirroring isn't important, or because the designer doesn't know about mirroring increases). Most instructions are focused on this front/back business, rather than on reading the sts on the needle and which way the needle points, again, because most knitters haven't noticed this correlation.
I am just finding this now. Been struggling trying to remember how to do these increases. Your tutorial clicked! Use the left needle, use the right! I get it. Thank you so much. Now this raglan sweater may actually get done 😂
Thankyou! This clarifies a major confusion . It helps to know that I need to point the increases towards the FABRIC i am making and not towards the raglan stitch column.
Thanks so much Roxanne. I needed this to work on my Finnish it February 2022 the Boneyard Shawl by Stephen West. Every time I picked it up I got so confused. Other videos confused me more. Your explanation finally makes it make sense. Thank you!!!
Comes the light...why didn;t anyone ever explain it this way before ? Presuming I will just remember what to do has not worked. Having a way to figure it out is incredibly helpful.
I was watching another person demonstrate a technique and your tutorial on the same subject was suggested as being of interest by youtube. Thankfully I watched it and I have been working through your tutorials taking notes to create my own reference book. What I appreciate most about your teaching is the way you help me "read" what I am doing so I can figure it out rather than rip it out. You really are the best on the web when it comes to clear teaching.
I am stumped. I love your explanation for the M1R and M1L. It has helped me tremendously in making a sweater beginning the neckband, casting on additional stitches for the yoke and working down. I am, however, struggling with the instructions when it says to M1P while knitting on the RS. I end up getting holes, Here's an example of the instructions: Work as established to 2 sts before 1st M, M1P, p1, k1, SM, k1, p1, M1L, (k to 1st st before next M, M1R, p1, k1, SM, k1, M1L) twice, then k to 2 sts before last M, M1R, p1, k1, SM, k1, p1, M1P, work as established to end . I don't understand how to M1P. Are you able to help me? Thank you so much. Your videos are always so clear and helpful! Robin
Cool! I could never remember front-to-back or back-to-front, so I use a left/right mnemonic as well, except I pick up back-to-front with the OPPOSITE needle. For m1r, this avoids the transfer to the left needle. For m1l, I transfer to the left needle and knit through the back loop in one fluid motion.
It really helps me to not have to stop and think about what I'm doing. You'd think after 30 years, I'd just automatically *know*, but apparently I need those tricks, too!
So all this time I've been doing my increases backwards on my toes? I've been doing a right M1 on the right side and then a left on the left side. I do like the way it looks so guess I'll just keep doing it wrong. LOL I've been going under the assumption that the increase should lean into the seam side or the edge. I do love your videos and how you explain the why of it all.
Hi. I wonder if you could help me please. I'm trying to do double knitting but confused with how to do l+r slanted increases in double knitting. I slip last 2 stitches for neat edge but on a round that requires increases I'm stuck on what strand to use as they haven't actually been knitted. Thank you.
Hi Roxanne, I have a question if you don't mind answering. I am knitting a top down raglan sweater with M1Rs and M1Ls. My M1Rs are very loose and my M1L are perfect. I am doing them correctly, twisting the stitch properly while doing my M1R. I am a fairly experienced knitter and I have done M1Rs many times before but never had this issue. The stitches that come before the M1R are all knit stitches. Could it be the yarn? I am using Knitting for Olive fingering 100% merino. I am stumped, not sure what I'm doing wrong. It seems as if the running yarn on that I use for the M1R is longer when I go to put it on the needle that when I do the M1L, not sure why, I am only doing stockinette stitch with raglan increases. (with a rib pattern of 9 sts in between). So, knit, M1R (p2, k, p, k, p2) M1L.
It sounds like you're creating a m1R in a running thread that lies between a knit and a purl. If the purl is looser, it may be supplying more slack than between a purl and knit. You could try the trick of working those purls as Eastern (wrap the yarn in the opposite direction for those purl stitches), in order to reduce the amount of slack.
Thank you for your response, I have tried wrapping the purls in the opposite direction however it did not help. I ripped out my work and started over. Wondering is it possible to change the pattern to do a M1R, k, p, p, k, p, k, p, p, k, M1L, keeping the same stitches as the pattern. In this case I will not have a purl stitch after a knit and therefore will not get a loose stitch. Just wondering if that is also another common way to have a raglan increase. Thank you.
Great lesson! If the pattern says to increase 6 stitches evenly on a round, how do I decide whether to M1 left or M1 right on those increases? Thanks:)
Mirrored increases are typically used when you are producing fabric with symmetrical shaping (i.e. two increases, at mirrored locations). When you do mass increases, you can use the same one, typically whichever one is easiest for you to do.
Roxanne my notes for knitted knockers originally said for row 1 knit to last st and then kfb / row 2 kfb knit to las stitch then kfb. Now the update version says to use M1R or M1L. So my question is this do i knit the 1st stitch and then do the M1R if so how do I do row 2? If possible could you do a youtube video for us knitters? Thank you in advance. The say this will eliminate ladders working from the bottom up. Hoping you are my answer.
If you have to do a m1 every rnd, you might be better off with this type: th-cam.com/video/x_V6-yKx254/w-d-xo.html You'll need at least 1 st separating the m1 incs from each other.
I really hope you have a tutorial I missed... you seem to have an answer or "trick" to everything! I can't find ONE tutorial that helps with the impossible task of doing "M1L, M1R" as written. Meaning NO knit stitch in between. I am doing a pattern that requires this for the shoulders- every knit-side row. I can't get my needle in to do the M1R after just doing an M1L. Even loosening my purls in the prior row, it is still impossible. I know there are "tricks" to give yourself a little more "bar" to work with. Do you have a tutorial on this?
I would check to see if the pattern defines m1L and m1R differently than lifting the running thread (some designers use "make 1" as a generic label for an increase, or are indicating a different increase). If you do two m1 increase between the same pair of sts, they have to both be formed using the same bit of running thread. You can do side-by-side lifted increases. If you're still having trouble, post your question in my Ravelry group with a link to the Ravelry pattern page.
@@RoxanneRichardson Hi! Thanks for getting back to me. I ended up doing an extra wrap in the purl row below exactly where I knew the M1L, M1R would be in the knit row. It gave me the extra yarn that I needed to do them on the same bar. So far it is working perfectly. I will probably write the pattern author to let them know my little adjustment. I am a tight knitter- so this may also be adding to the issue! Thanks again!
I hope it's not too late to say thank you. You have helped me understand the CONCEPT, which I always prefer to memorizing steps in a process. Now, if someone could just help me get the concept of driving a stick-shift...
Are you asking how a German short row Double stitch is different from a M1L or M1R increase? For a short row, the stitch to the left of the lifted strand would have been slipped on the previous row. The lifted strand and the slipped stitch are worked together like a k2tog or p2tog, depending on whether you are on a knit row or p row, and there is no increase in the number of sts. The lifted strand of a M1L or M1R is worked so that it twists at the base, creating a new stitch.
Without knowing more about what the pattern is, what the exact instructions are, I can't say for sure. Some patterns will say to increase at each end of the next row (and possibly every X rows after that, Y times). That means you are to use the increase of your choice, somewhere *near* the start and end of the row. Some patterns will say to "make 1" and will define that increase in a specific way, others will just mean you are to increase. Again, without knowing more about what the pattern says, specifically, I can't give you a more specific answer
Thank you. Thank you. I find myself looking through your videos, when i run into a problem with my knitting, and find the solution. Thank you for putting out all these gems.
BLESS YOU...I am working on a raglan sweater with M1 increases and now I do it the right way every time because you taught me how to figure it out thinking right vs left instead of front this and back that which I could never remember. You are the BEST knitting teacher on the web.
Roxanne, you really teach WHY to do something, in addition to HOW to do it. You give me so much confidence in my knitting. Thank you for all the effort you put into helping us become better at our craft.
This is one of my all-time most useful knitting videos. Thank you, Roxanne!
When I want to learn and retain information regarding knitting I always search for your videos. The instructions and detailed examples of what to do and not what to do and the why is just as important and if not more so at times than just showing how to do this or that. Thank you for your knowledge and for sharing.
Thank you Roxanne. This was a great help to me and I’ve been knitting for 70 years! I always increased knitting purling into front and back of a stitch
I love how you say "you don't want to do this" LOL I'm so stupid i could not figure what I was doing wrong with this increase. I'm new to knitting but I knew something was so wrong with this increase leaving big holes. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! You have no idea the struggle I was going through. I got this now!
Thank you for explaining the reasoning behind the M1 stitches. I always find it helpful to know a stitch is created a certain way so I don't have to stop knitting and look at the directions. I love your videos because you show the stitches and explain why they are made a particular way. Thank you, thank you.
I know this is an old video but that doesn't make it any less useful. This also works for left-handed (mirror) knitting. Thank you so much 💓
Great video! I never knew that the increases should lean toward the part of the knitting that is getting bigger. Very easy rule to remember. Thank you!
Making the Sophomore Wrap by Two of Wands and it is full of M1L and M1R…. Excellent support for this new knitter! Thank you
THANK YOU! I always get M1R and M1L confused while working a pattern. Now I stand a chance of remembering which is which.
Thank you so much for this tutorial, I refer to it every time I get confused about M1R or M1L , you are an excellent teacher ❤
Absolutely agreed that this is one of the best explanations to make this sooo much easier to think and do!! Changed my whole happiness factor with sock toe ups!😊
Another excellent video. I find the quick limerick “I left thru the back door (M1L) so, I’m right up front (M1R), to be helpful reminder.
More importantly is being empowered by understanding the principles of why an Inc should lean left or right. So you can chose the Inc option you find desirable for your project.
And thanks for your inspiring & impactful contributions!
Thank you for this! So much easier to remember than “back” or “front”!
Thank you, Roxanne, for this explanation of how the M1R and M1L work.👍🏽
This video was made a long time ago, but you are always my ‘go to’ when I need clarification on a ‘how to’, as well as many other questions I may have. Thank you for your body of work 🤩
Easy to remember rules, yes, thank you! When doing the lifted increase always lift from front to back - with the left needle for M1L and with the right needle for M1R 💡💡💡. I’m a new knitter and was always futzing with the lifted increases to get them mounted correctly. No more!
I'm glad you've got it worked out. :-) (FYI, a "lifted increase" is actually a different increase than a M1 increase. Knitting terms are often ambiguous! There can be multiple names for a single technique, and some names are often applied to multiple techniques)
@@RoxanneRichardson good to know, thank you!
Thank you in midst of shawl requiring m1l and m1r. Fumbling thru it, frogging , trying again UNTIL late one night I found clarity listening to you . Other videos were good but yours was an aha moment . Thank you more time to knit and kissed frogs goodbye ( already had the prince)
Glad it helped!
Thank you! I thought I was the only one to be very very annoyed at patterns that don't tell me if the M1 had to be left or right and at me for always forgetting which one I have o make while knitting. It's a simple solution, likw someone else already said in the comments, using left/right instead of front/back, but in years since I started learning to knit, no one showed the trick to me. So again, thank you.
You probably weren't shown the trick because no one knew the trick themselves. :-)
If they don't specify M1L or M1R and just say "m1" that probably means that the designer doesn't think it matters (either because it's not a situation in which mirrored increases are needed, or because it's a situation the designer thinks mirroring isn't important, or because the designer doesn't know about mirroring increases). Most instructions are focused on this front/back business, rather than on reading the sts on the needle and which way the needle points, again, because most knitters haven't noticed this correlation.
I appreciate the in-depth explanation. Your knit wisdom was indispensable to my understanding of this!
This method is so helpful to explain which way to m1 regardless of whether your left or right handed! Thank you
THANK YOU!!!! Your explanation is so clear! I was baffled, but now I get it!!😊
This is brilliant as a way to remember the proper way to knit these increases
Thank you so much. This is the best explanation I found, when to use which increase.
Excellent demonstration, with a super clear explanation. Thanks, Roxanne...........your tutorials are always a "go to" for me.
I am just finding this now. Been struggling trying to remember how to do these increases. Your tutorial clicked! Use the left needle, use the right! I get it. Thank you so much. Now this raglan sweater may actually get done 😂
Thankyou! This clarifies a major confusion . It helps to know that I need to point the increases towards the FABRIC i am making and not towards the raglan stitch column.
You explain everything so well. Thank you!
Oh my gosh, this is SO useful!!! You are a goddess! ♥️♥️♥️
This is such a fantastic video Roxanne! The tips you show us are incredible! The yarn and needle leaning to the left etc! Genius! Thanks for sharing!
You are so welcome!
😊
Thanks so much Roxanne. I needed this to work on my Finnish it February 2022 the Boneyard Shawl by Stephen West. Every time I picked it up I got so confused. Other videos confused me more. Your explanation finally makes it make sense. Thank you!!!
Very helpful with an issue I've struggled with numerous times. Thank you!
INCREDIBLY helpful. Thank you!
Love your clear explanations! Thank you!
Perfect, found answers, thank you for being so clear and thorough
Brilliant explanation!
That was the best explanation I have viewed. Thank you!!!
You're very welcome!
Thank you so much. I have been having difficulties with this and now its cleared up for me.
All your tutorials are great. This one is brilliant! THANK YOU
Thank goodness for you!!! Best explaination ever!! Thank you!!
Thank you for this explanation , it makes so much more sense to me .
What a great video!!! Thanks for these tips. ❤️
thanks Rox, yet again solving my pattern problems with your more than helpful video tutorials!
Comes the light...why didn;t anyone ever explain it this way before ? Presuming I will just remember what to do has not worked. Having a way to figure it out is incredibly helpful.
I had the same question, when I first realized that was what was going on! Why didn't anyone tell me this? (I guess because they didn't know!) :-)
I was watching another person demonstrate a technique and your tutorial on the same subject was suggested as being of interest by youtube. Thankfully I watched it and I have been working through your tutorials taking notes to create my own reference book. What I appreciate most about your teaching is the way you help me "read" what I am doing so I can figure it out rather than rip it out. You really are the best on the web when it comes to clear teaching.
Excellent!! So well explained!! Thank you for this. Really helpful !
You make it so easy,once again many thanks.
The light bulb is finally lit. Thanks!
👏👏👏 Applause!
You made that so clear!
Thank you, no more guessing 😊
I still use this tip, myself!
Another illuminating video. Thank you.
I am stumped. I love your explanation for the M1R and M1L. It has helped me tremendously in making a sweater beginning the neckband, casting on additional stitches for the yoke and working down. I am, however, struggling with the instructions when it says to M1P while knitting on the RS. I end up getting holes,
Here's an example of the instructions:
Work as established to 2 sts before 1st M, M1P, p1, k1, SM, k1, p1, M1L, (k to 1st st before next M, M1R, p1, k1, SM, k1, M1L) twice, then k to 2 sts before last M, M1R, p1, k1, SM, k1, p1, M1P, work as established to end .
I don't understand how to M1P.
Are you able to help me?
Thank you so much. Your videos are always so clear and helpful!
Robin
You just changed my life
It's a neat trick, eh? :-)
I could never remember which one was left and which one was right. It's so simple now. I literally face palmed.
Cool! I could never remember front-to-back or back-to-front, so I use a left/right mnemonic as well, except I pick up back-to-front with the OPPOSITE needle. For m1r, this avoids the transfer to the left needle. For m1l, I transfer to the left needle and knit through the back loop in one fluid motion.
The neat thing is your check for the angle of the yarn after you pick up still works with my opposite version!
Yup, you can always check for how the loop lies on the needle. I like your trick -- very smooth!
This is the best thank you so much, greetıngs from Türkiye 🙏💐
Finally!!! It makes sense. Thank you.
Thanks! This is the best explanation I've seen.
It really helps me to not have to stop and think about what I'm doing. You'd think after 30 years, I'd just automatically *know*, but apparently I need those tricks, too!
Thank you!!!! Great explanation! I might actually remember it now!
Thank you for explaining m1 to me!
Genius! Thank you for such a great tip!
You're welcome! :-)
Brilliant! Thank you!
Thanks
Very helpful! Thank you.
Very good, thank you.
So all this time I've been doing my increases backwards on my toes? I've been doing a right M1 on the right side and then a left on the left side. I do like the way it looks so guess I'll just keep doing it wrong. LOL I've been going under the assumption that the increase should lean into the seam side or the edge. I do love your videos and how you explain the why of it all.
Hi. I wonder if you could help me please. I'm trying to do double knitting but confused with how to do l+r slanted increases in double knitting. I slip last 2 stitches for neat edge but on a round that requires increases I'm stuck on what strand to use as they haven't actually been knitted. Thank you.
Hi Roxanne, I have a question if you don't mind answering. I am knitting a top down raglan sweater with M1Rs and M1Ls. My M1Rs are very loose and my M1L are perfect. I am doing them correctly, twisting the stitch properly while doing my M1R. I am a fairly experienced knitter and I have done M1Rs many times before but never had this issue. The stitches that come before the M1R are all knit stitches. Could it be the yarn? I am using Knitting for Olive fingering 100% merino. I am stumped, not sure what I'm doing wrong. It seems as if the running yarn on that I use for the M1R is longer when I go to put it on the needle that when I do the M1L, not sure why, I am only doing stockinette stitch with raglan increases. (with a rib pattern of 9 sts in between). So, knit, M1R (p2, k, p, k, p2) M1L.
It sounds like you're creating a m1R in a running thread that lies between a knit and a purl. If the purl is looser, it may be supplying more slack than between a purl and knit. You could try the trick of working those purls as Eastern (wrap the yarn in the opposite direction for those purl stitches), in order to reduce the amount of slack.
Thank you for your response, I have tried wrapping the purls in the opposite direction however it did not help. I ripped out my work and started over. Wondering is it possible to change the pattern to do a M1R, k, p, p, k, p, k, p, p, k, M1L, keeping the same stitches as the pattern. In this case I will not have a purl stitch after a knit and therefore will not get a loose stitch. Just wondering if that is also another common way to have a raglan increase. Thank you.
What a helpful tutorial! Wonderful thank you very much 😊 Do this video applies for English and Continental styles, I mean for both?
Yes, it works for both.
Great lesson! If the pattern says to increase 6 stitches evenly on a round, how do I decide whether to M1 left or M1 right on those increases? Thanks:)
Mirrored increases are typically used when you are producing fabric with symmetrical shaping (i.e. two increases, at mirrored locations). When you do mass increases, you can use the same one, typically whichever one is easiest for you to do.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you!
Roxanne my notes for knitted knockers originally said for row 1 knit to last st and then kfb / row 2 kfb knit to las stitch then kfb. Now the update version says to use M1R or M1L. So my question is this do i knit the 1st stitch and then do the M1R if so how do I do row 2? If possible could you do a youtube video for us knitters? Thank you in advance. The say this will eliminate ladders working from the bottom up. Hoping you are my answer.
If you have to do a m1 every rnd, you might be better off with this type: th-cam.com/video/x_V6-yKx254/w-d-xo.html
You'll need at least 1 st separating the m1 incs from each other.
holy moly!!!!!!! Did you make that sweater yourself?????
Is there some reason to suspect that I didn't? :-) (Of course, I did!)
@@RoxanneRichardson so pretty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just like you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU!!!
Thanks!
I really hope you have a tutorial I missed... you seem to have an answer or "trick" to everything! I can't find ONE tutorial that helps with the impossible task of doing "M1L, M1R" as written. Meaning NO knit stitch in between. I am doing a pattern that requires this for the shoulders- every knit-side row. I can't get my needle in to do the M1R after just doing an M1L. Even loosening my purls in the prior row, it is still impossible. I know there are "tricks" to give yourself a little more "bar" to work with. Do you have a tutorial on this?
I would check to see if the pattern defines m1L and m1R differently than lifting the running thread (some designers use "make 1" as a generic label for an increase, or are indicating a different increase). If you do two m1 increase between the same pair of sts, they have to both be formed using the same bit of running thread. You can do side-by-side lifted increases. If you're still having trouble, post your question in my Ravelry group with a link to the Ravelry pattern page.
@@RoxanneRichardson Hi! Thanks for getting back to me. I ended up doing an extra wrap in the purl row below exactly where I knew the M1L, M1R would be in the knit row. It gave me the extra yarn that I needed to do them on the same bar. So far it is working perfectly. I will probably write the pattern author to let them know my little adjustment. I am a tight knitter- so this may also be adding to the issue! Thanks again!
I hope it's not too late to say thank you. You have helped me understand the CONCEPT, which I always prefer to memorizing steps in a process. Now, if someone could just help me get the concept of driving a stick-shift...
Please show how to increase at the same time make a hole. Thanks
That's a yarn over. I have a number of YO-related videos on my channel that you can search for.
How is DS double stitch differ from M1L and M1R German short rows ?
Are you asking how a German short row Double stitch is different from a M1L or M1R increase? For a short row, the stitch to the left of the lifted strand would have been slipped on the previous row. The lifted strand and the slipped stitch are worked together like a k2tog or p2tog, depending on whether you are on a knit row or p row, and there is no increase in the number of sts. The lifted strand of a M1L or M1R is worked so that it twists at the base, creating a new stitch.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you Roxanne ! That makes sense to me now . Appreciate the clarification ☺️
I want to see the symbol in the pattern?
Question: Why would a pattern have a M1 at the beginning of a row - what to do?
Without knowing more about what the pattern is, what the exact instructions are, I can't say for sure. Some patterns will say to increase at each end of the next row (and possibly every X rows after that, Y times). That means you are to use the increase of your choice, somewhere *near* the start and end of the row. Some patterns will say to "make 1" and will define that increase in a specific way, others will just mean you are to increase. Again, without knowing more about what the pattern says, specifically, I can't give you a more specific answer