Great as usual. One thing that can help the front end tangle and 'which way round the clamp did it go?' questions is taking a photo of the cables and how they overlap each other before you start.
01:44 When he instantly noticed the difference at that old derailleur, you know the dude is a bike master....hahaha I got as shocked as Syd. Your mom had a nice shredding machine there
Thank you for this. I recently started working on our bikes, and this is the most technical thing I’ve done yet… could not have done it without you. Especially appreciate Syd reminding us of things along the way, like to look for the light at the other end to ensure shifter is in correct position.
When the end of the housing ends up oval after cutting, I like to give it a little squeeze with the needle nose pliers to make it circular again. Also I use a small pointy object like a dental pick to grab the end of the plastic housing liner and push it back into a circular shape, if it got folded flat when it was cut. Doing these steps will minimize the friction where the cable comes out of the end of the housing.
Worked perfect! Perfect fit and easy installation my Latest.Bike . Due to a back condition, I needed item to raise the handlebars up a couple of inches.
When changing shifter cables it’s a perfect time to lubricate your shifter. Use a light weight foaming spray lube into the hole the cable came out of and let it drain before reassembling. Especially important on old bikes :)
I have always taken pictures of my lawn tractors or anything else I work on b-4 so if I forget "where that came from " I can look it up. Thank for all you help your video's are great !!
Thanks for your instructional. Your relaxed delivery made me a subscriber some weeks ago. I think your 1-minute synopsis is a very good idea. I suggest you continue it for future vids.
Thanks for the great tutorials. I really like how you walk us through slowly each step, explain it in layman terms, then quick summary/recap at the end. I started wrenching my bikes, as I used to take them to bike mechanics. But, as I have 6 bikes plus electric scooter, and more coming as we get electric bikes, it was getting expensive. Now, my extended family and friends bring their bikes due how smooth I can get the gear changes due to your video. Next, is change a broken spoke on a hub rear driver wheel, and to convert Giant MTB to a mid drive (just need to decide which 750w mid drive). My wife just shakes her head with the amount of bike tools I purchase (love my chain wear gauge). Keep the great videos coming! And, love the beanie and socks with sandals look.
saw in a different video an update on the "vacuum the line thru the tubes" idea -- they tied the line to a light weight fluffy plastic bag, which blocked the air better and gave the vacuum something to pull.
Great video. Easy to understand with the breakdown of steps. Thanks Syd (and Macky). While Syd was working on the rear mech, it looked to me like the chain is worn out. It seemed to be riding high on the teeth of the granny gear of the cassette. Am I seeing things or was the chain cooked? (The only reason it caught my eye is that I had to stop at a shop mid-ride 3 weeks ago to get a new chain for this same reason.) Keep making these videos, they're fantastic. --Your 3th biggest fan (by height)
I've been way too many times into bike stores just to have my cables replaced cause I've damaged the cables somehow. I said to my self let's just buy the tools I need to replace cables, expensive cable cutter and try it myself. The first time I attempted to replace a cable I was so scared but it was not hard so I stated doing it myself until I tried it on my bike with sram double tap shifters. I just could not get the cable trough the double tap shifter up on the handlebar so I let my LBS do it for me. I tried it again 2 weeks ago and was able to get the cable trough the double tap shifter but that's a stupidly hard task. Cable install and replacement should be easy but somehow sram makes it super duper hard.
I bought the shifting cable and housing also all the necessary equipment but the problem is.. my bike is a new bike, it's doesn't need a shifting replacement. So I need to cycle more until I need to replace the shifting cable.
A huge point for me is to make it work and not new. I want to make my bikes work with the least new parts as possible that doesn't means I own junk it's the point that you pay 50 bucks for a bike and would have to pay 10 for parts that don't really need to be replaced. I just put some assembly lube in it and it works mint since years.
What's the best way to ensure you don't end up with too short of a length of cable/housing if you're starting with a new build and don't have a piece to measure from? Not that I already did that or anything.... Thanks, Syd!
Generally you should start running the housing from the handlebar (from the lever). Then run it through the frame to the end point (derailleur, brake, etc). Then hold the housing into the lever and turn the bars both directions so to make sure you have enough extra for the bars to turn. Then go to the end point and hold the housing up to the derailleur, brake, etc, add a bit (just in case) and cut it. For dropper posts, it's a bit more complicated and depends if the cable starts at the post or lever. We cover both options in these videos: th-cam.com/video/EYVixI98f2g/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/aAnzoB5Fj70/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!
@@sydfixesbikes Thank you so much for the quick response! I'm planning on tackling it today, I definitely skipped turning the handlebars the first time. Do you have any suggestions for external-routed frames as far as preventing cables from rubbing on the headtube or top tube? I know they make stickers and stuff, but is there anything that sticks onto the frame that would actively guide the cables? Also, your videos make a lot of bike maintenance stuff easily understandable. Thanks again!
Yea I need a good cable cutter. One I got from ebay (china) only bends the inner cable. Seem to be unable to find an ebay seller who even understands what I want for cutting the outer cable which is like a steel wired armour sheathing and cant be cut easily with hacksaw i need to watch this later and see what you guys are using.
Clean the area super well with isopropyl alcohol then fill the scratches with clear nail polish lightly sand them until they are flush with the rest of the stanchion.
Yup. Obviously won't work as well as it would of it wasn't scratched and might leak a bit of oil around the seals, but better than nothing until you can replace the uppers.
How do I know exactly which cable to buy? New cables are advertised as being of a certain thickness. I don't have an owner's manual for my MTB, but I know I have Shimano shifters.
Just make sure you're getting shifter cables and housing (not brake) and it will work. More expensive ones will generally feel nicer (give you nicer shifts) and may last longer.
It depends on a lot of factors including things like the conditions you generally ride in, what type of cable and housing you use, whether you have internal or external housing, so it's best to do it when your shifting starts to feel hard. One way to check is to see how the shifting feels on someone else's bike. If theirs is much easier, you probably need to replace the cable and housing.
4:31 - Let me get this straight, if you have metal coming out of the housing, you need to replace the entire housing? I had this exact thing happen to me the other day. All I did was trim off the exposed wire along with a little bit of the housing itself, then put new ferrules on. Are you saying I need to replace the entire housing?
If the only thing worn out is the end of the housing, then, sure, you can trim and that's it. But, often times, you will also notice some corrosion on the metal part of the housing. And what you see from the outside often continues inside. On this occurrence, it's better to change housing and cable.
Yeah, the metal sticking out isn't an issue, per se, but it generally means that your housing is worn and needs replacing. More of a sign that a problem.
I'll have to look at the housing, but the bike was bought brand new only 18 months or so ago. I can't imagine that housing would wear out in that amount of time.
Great tips, however I would disagree with one point. Instead of throwing out the old cable, if it is a particularly nasty, corroded cable that should have been swapped out 6 months ago, but you didn't because you really didn't want to (this of course has never happened to me.... *cough*) and it was a miracle it didn't snap, it should be prominently displayed in your workshop so you always think about what you did......
@@wonderwatch2239 Actually doesn't make a difference if you're pulling the inner at its very end as all the outter is installed already - this way the inner will stretch and the outter compress. But glad you pointed that out!
We didn't mention it because the last time we mentioned "pre-stretching" we got all sorts of comments about "you can't stretch a cable!" and didn't want to deal with that again 😁 We do generally pre-stretch them though. Basically just shift a couple gears easier (assuming it's a normal derailleur) without pedaling and do that a couple times then adjust everything. Seems to work pretty well...
Great as usual.
One thing that can help the front end tangle and 'which way round the clamp did it go?' questions is taking a photo of the cables and how they overlap each other before you start.
That is a great idea!
01:44
When he instantly noticed the difference at that old derailleur, you know the dude is a bike master....hahaha I got as shocked as Syd.
Your mom had a nice shredding machine there
Thank you for this. I recently started working on our bikes, and this is the most technical thing I’ve done yet… could not have done it without you. Especially appreciate Syd reminding us of things along the way, like to look for the light at the other end to ensure shifter is in correct position.
When the end of the housing ends up oval after cutting, I like to give it a little squeeze with the needle nose pliers to make it circular again. Also I use a small pointy object like a dental pick to grab the end of the plastic housing liner and push it back into a circular shape, if it got folded flat when it was cut. Doing these steps will minimize the friction where the cable comes out of the end of the housing.
Worked perfect! Perfect fit and easy installation my Latest.Bike . Due to a back condition, I needed item to raise the handlebars up a couple of inches.
When changing shifter cables it’s a perfect time to lubricate your shifter. Use a light weight foaming spray lube into the hole the cable came out of and let it drain before reassembling. Especially important on old bikes :)
Thanks, Syd. Hugh D. Best. I appreciate you doing these videos. You are helping out thousands of people. Please keep it coming.
I have always taken pictures of my lawn tractors or anything else I work on b-4 so if I forget "where that came from " I can look it up. Thank for all you help your video's are great !!
Thanks for your instructional. Your relaxed delivery made me a subscriber some weeks ago. I think your 1-minute synopsis is a very good idea. I suggest you continue it for future vids.
Just when I began to think that you reached your peak, you just went even higher.
Incredibly good video. Keep it up, it's so useful and fun!
This video comes in at a perfect time. I broke my Sram SX shifter and just bought a NX to replace it.
Did you use the original housing? I’m about to do the same install.
Thanks for the great tutorials. I really like how you walk us through slowly each step, explain it in layman terms, then quick summary/recap at the end. I started wrenching my bikes, as I used to take them to bike mechanics. But, as I have 6 bikes plus electric scooter, and more coming as we get electric bikes, it was getting expensive. Now, my extended family and friends bring their bikes due how smooth I can get the gear changes due to your video. Next, is change a broken spoke on a hub rear driver wheel, and to convert Giant MTB to a mid drive (just need to decide which 750w mid drive). My wife just shakes her head with the amount of bike tools I purchase (love my chain wear gauge). Keep the great videos coming! And, love the beanie and socks with sandals look.
I simply love this series with Syd !!! U2 are great guys, turning in a pleasant time any subject associated with MTB. See ya, blue skies 🤙
When working on older bikes I always drill out the cable guides to prevent having to run bare sections of cable.
Thanks for the reminder that I need to order my signature purple cable housing!
As always, enjoyed the video. I’ve replaced cables and housings before but still picked up some tips, including how to best crimp the cable ends! :)
i love your contents, you guys have helped me soo much as a bike technician
Very informative video. Nice job. Hope all is going well with your recoveries. Take care , Al
Thank you Syd, it's nice to see a girl bicycle geek on TH-cam! I am subbed to your channel!
Really helpful, thank you. I'm just learning how to work on my own bike 😀
Keep up the good work Syd! I love these how to videos.
saw in a different video an update on the "vacuum the line thru the tubes" idea -- they tied the line to a light weight fluffy plastic bag, which blocked the air better and gave the vacuum something to pull.
a magnet should work as well.
Super informative and great to know how to do! Also I’m so digging the fuzzy top hat!😂😂😂
Hi, can you also take a video for partial housing(some section of the cable exposed ) cable replacing? Thank you
These videos are great. Thank you very much.
Always dig your 70’s style funk theme, kids.
Great video. Easy to understand with the breakdown of steps. Thanks Syd (and Macky).
While Syd was working on the rear mech, it looked to me like the chain is worn out. It seemed to be riding high on the teeth of the granny gear of the cassette. Am I seeing things or was the chain cooked? (The only reason it caught my eye is that I had to stop at a shop mid-ride 3 weeks ago to get a new chain for this same reason.) Keep making these videos, they're fantastic.
--Your 3th biggest fan (by height)
That is distinctly possible. That bike could probably use quite a bit of love, but doesn't get ridden very often so it hasn't been a priority.
I've been way too many times into bike stores just to have my cables replaced cause I've damaged the cables somehow. I said to my self let's just buy the tools I need to replace cables, expensive cable cutter and try it myself. The first time I attempted to replace a cable I was so scared but it was not hard so I stated doing it myself until I tried it on my bike with sram double tap shifters. I just could not get the cable trough the double tap shifter up on the handlebar so I let my LBS do it for me. I tried it again 2 weeks ago and was able to get the cable trough the double tap shifter but that's a stupidly hard task.
Cable install and replacement should be easy but somehow sram makes it super duper hard.
Where did you find a 2006 Trance to work on??
At 1:16 Syd said it's Macky's mom's bike.
Good job!
I bought the shifting cable and housing also all the necessary equipment but the problem is.. my bike is a new bike, it's doesn't need a shifting replacement. So I need to cycle more until I need to replace the shifting cable.
Top Tip
Use the cable inner to pull the ferulls out
High markup at a bike shop cuz it sucks...
A huge point for me is to make it work and not new.
I want to make my bikes work with the least new parts as possible that doesn't means I own junk it's the point that you pay 50 bucks for a bike and would have to pay 10 for parts that don't really need to be replaced.
I just put some assembly lube in it and it works mint since years.
So the ferrules just push onto the end of the housing? They’re not crimped on in any way?
Correct
What's the best way to ensure you don't end up with too short of a length of cable/housing if you're starting with a new build and don't have a piece to measure from? Not that I already did that or anything.... Thanks, Syd!
Generally you should start running the housing from the handlebar (from the lever). Then run it through the frame to the end point (derailleur, brake, etc). Then hold the housing into the lever and turn the bars both directions so to make sure you have enough extra for the bars to turn. Then go to the end point and hold the housing up to the derailleur, brake, etc, add a bit (just in case) and cut it.
For dropper posts, it's a bit more complicated and depends if the cable starts at the post or lever. We cover both options in these videos:
th-cam.com/video/EYVixI98f2g/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/aAnzoB5Fj70/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps!
@@sydfixesbikes Thank you so much for the quick response! I'm planning on tackling it today, I definitely skipped turning the handlebars the first time. Do you have any suggestions for external-routed frames as far as preventing cables from rubbing on the headtube or top tube? I know they make stickers and stuff, but is there anything that sticks onto the frame that would actively guide the cables? Also, your videos make a lot of bike maintenance stuff easily understandable. Thanks again!
Do you ever put a light coating of grease on the cable or drip oil in the housing? 🤔
Nope. Most housing (at least good housing) comes pre-greased!
Yea I need a good cable cutter. One I got from ebay (china) only bends the inner cable. Seem to be unable to find an ebay seller who even understands what I want for cutting the outer cable which is like a steel wired armour sheathing and cant be cut easily with hacksaw i need to watch this later and see what you guys are using.
Park tool or Shimano. Made for the job. 👍🏻
Excuse me, can you make video about how to fix deep scratched fork stanchion? Thank u
Clean the area super well with isopropyl alcohol then fill the scratches with clear nail polish lightly sand them until they are flush with the rest of the stanchion.
@@sydfixesbikes useful for kashima too?
Yup. Obviously won't work as well as it would of it wasn't scratched and might leak a bit of oil around the seals, but better than nothing until you can replace the uppers.
How do I know exactly which cable to buy? New cables are advertised as being of a certain thickness. I don't have an owner's manual for my MTB, but I know I have Shimano shifters.
Just make sure you're getting shifter cables and housing (not brake) and it will work. More expensive ones will generally feel nicer (give you nicer shifts) and may last longer.
Love building my mtb hate running my cables lol
On the exposed parts of the cable could you just add housing?
Yeah, but you'd still have the intersections. Some people drill on the housing runs and then run continuous external housing...
+1 on drilling out the housing frame mounts slightly and running a continuous cable housing
I just did cables on a bike yesterday and I was wondering why there were exposed cable areas. Made no sense to me either
Ecxelente colocación
Does this work from SRAM too or just Shitmano?
SRAM requires a pressurized system, thus the need for multiple syringes and why this method doesn't work.
How often (time/km) is needed to change the cable?
It depends on a lot of factors including things like the conditions you generally ride in, what type of cable and housing you use, whether you have internal or external housing, so it's best to do it when your shifting starts to feel hard. One way to check is to see how the shifting feels on someone else's bike. If theirs is much easier, you probably need to replace the cable and housing.
@@sydfixesbikes Thank you!
Who makes the shirt that Syd is wearing in this video.
It's the pearlizumi women's rove shirt!
4:31 - Let me get this straight, if you have metal coming out of the housing, you need to replace the entire housing? I had this exact thing happen to me the other day. All I did was trim off the exposed wire along with a little bit of the housing itself, then put new ferrules on. Are you saying I need to replace the entire housing?
If the only thing worn out is the end of the housing, then, sure, you can trim and that's it.
But, often times, you will also notice some corrosion on the metal part of the housing. And what you see from the outside often continues inside. On this occurrence, it's better to change housing and cable.
Yeah, the metal sticking out isn't an issue, per se, but it generally means that your housing is worn and needs replacing. More of a sign that a problem.
I'll have to look at the housing, but the bike was bought brand new only 18 months or so ago. I can't imagine that housing would wear out in that amount of time.
Oh, it definitely can. We generally replace cables/housing AT LEAST once a year.
What I do with the outer cable is, I use a long nose pliers and the cable to open up both sides of the outer cable, does anyone do is?
Waylube 68. Will help. don't leave it dry. you shouldn't have to replace the housing. much
SO YOU DON'T POKE YOUR EYEBALL!! 😂🤣😂🤣
Iceman full. Some pro slots left.
Nice, but its way easier to replace them with a Sram AXS ;-)
Don't think their Shimano sponsor will agree but I definitely do! haha. I run eTap on road and AXS on MTB, absolutely love them.
Great tips, however I would disagree with one point. Instead of throwing out the old cable, if it is a particularly nasty, corroded cable that should have been swapped out 6 months ago, but you didn't because you really didn't want to (this of course has never happened to me.... *cough*) and it was a miracle it didn't snap, it should be prominently displayed in your workshop so you always think about what you did......
Ah, the old self-shaming technique. Good point!
How did you know that I was facing that problem?? 😂
Because everyone watching this channel, at every moment in time, has at least one bike facing this exact problem :)
(at least I do)
Also, we read minds 😁
First!
So what's your take on *pre-stretching* new inner cables?
SInce most people don't get the barrel adjuster it might buy them a little more time.
A theory is, that it’s not the inner cable stretching, but the outer housing compressing.... so no pre stretching needed....🤷♂️
Worth doing if the cable doesn't claim to be pre stretched and / or if you are doing it for someone else
@@wonderwatch2239 Actually doesn't make a difference if you're pulling the inner at its very end as all the outter is installed already - this way the inner will stretch and the outter compress. But glad you pointed that out!
We didn't mention it because the last time we mentioned "pre-stretching" we got all sorts of comments about "you can't stretch a cable!" and didn't want to deal with that again 😁
We do generally pre-stretch them though. Basically just shift a couple gears easier (assuming it's a normal derailleur) without pedaling and do that a couple times then adjust everything. Seems to work pretty well...