2015 Subaru Legacy Rear Wheel Hub Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2022
- This video shows how I replaced the rear wheel hub/bearing assembly on my 2015 Subaru Legacy.
Here are some sites for Subaru parts:
parts.subaru.com (OEM parts)
www.subaruparts.com (OEM parts)
www.moog-suspension-parts.com (3rd party suspension parts, this is the brand I personally prefer)
Informative sites that helped me learn how to do this repair:
www.subaruoutback.org/forums/
www.blingstrom.com/diy-projec...
Various other TH-cam videos . . .
This video is for general reference and entertainment purposes only, and I make no claim to the veracity of the information presented within. Research your project well before you start, and work at your own risk. Having said that, I want to encourage all DIY-ers to try this repair, as it was not that tough, didn't take too much time, and saved me who-know-how-much on garage labor charges.
Good luck! Be safe!
Doing this on my ‘17 Outback soon! Thank you for the video! It’s surprisingly hard to find any information on the ‘15 and newer. I went with Moog too. I think they are a good product and will last a long time.
Edit: Just finished! When using the pull hammer to get the bearing hub out the bearing hub separated in half. The half that was stuck in the knuckle was super hard to get out due to rust. Wasn’t expecting that but I guess it proves how bad it was!
Did the front bearing hubs on my 2015 Subaru Outback earlier this week. Pretty much the same process. That axle nut is fairly easy to remove with an impact wrench. Also, if you put the rotor and caliper back on and insert a steel rod into the rotor fins through the caliper you can more easily torque the axle nut.
Set brake
Jack car
Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Release brake
How I did it tonight, but that hub sure as hell is not coming out as easy as that one. Left it for the night with wd40
I'll be doing this job this weekend. I bought the same puller you used. I hope and pray that it'll break the hubs out of the carrier without any sledging, heating or shocking.
Good luck to you! My experience was relatively easy, at least with that portion of the repair, so I hope you have a similarly trouble-free time with it.
I'm currently doing this on my 2015 wrx. Been a 2 day project so far. Mine is seized in there. So jealous yours came out so easy.
Wow! That sounds rough. It's been a few days since you wrote the comment (sorry I didn't respond earlier), and I'm curious: were you able to get the hub to come off your WRX?
@@markbeebe4388 yeah it was rough. It took 3 days and like 5 different people trying. Finally, my mechanic came over with a proper torch and we heated it up until it was glowing red and beat it with a 10lb sledge hammer until it finally came off. Next wheel bearing that goes bad, it's going to a shop 😅
Holy moly! That's incredible, it must have darn near welded itself to the suspension for it to require that kind of treatment. Glad you were able to do it, here's hoping the next one isn't anywhere near as difficult!
Dude the seize is real. I have a 2015 legacy and my passenger side is Not budging…😢😂
I kept hitting mine with a hummer from different angles for a few minutes and it let go finally. The way it came out in this video looks almost staged :) You probably live somewhere in the worm climate. You had almost zero rust and I guess it's rust what's holding it from coming out. So hummering is a good therapy to loosen it up.
Great video, thanks!
Awesome video
Just replaced my 2015 Foresters rear WB hubs @88k miles. I think only the left side was bad but decided to replace both. I used the new updated Subaru oem WB's and new updated backing plates. The TSB recommends replacing both as a unit. MOOG has a worse track record from I read, so I went with OEM. We'll see what happens.
And Subaru’s track record is better than Moog’s? Isn’t there a reason you’re replacing OEM in the first place?
@@built4u2 my rear WBs went bad @ 90k miles and front 2 are still good. Cassette type WB hubs are all prone to water intrusion and if the center wheel nut is over torqued, it kills the bearing.
A bit late but, the easiest way is to crack off the wheel nuts and hub nut whilst the car is still on the ground.................then jack it up..... not the other way round.😉
100%. In this instance, I honestly spaced out and only realized I’d skipped the step of loosening the lug nuts after I’d already jacked it up. So I decided simply to show what I do in this situation: chock the wheel with a piece of wood to keep it from rotating.
Wish I could say that this was the first time I’d done that. But nope . . . 🤓
My 2015 outback is needing it's third rear bearing since last puchased last year.....no bueno!!!
Puller? I just did both on my 12 outback was a pain in the stones until I got a hold of a nice air chisel
Wow! Sounds like you had a lot more difficulty on yours. I wonder why it was so much harder to get the spline separated from the hub? On mine, I did not even have to use much force with the puller, and it came right apart. Strange.
I left the rotor on and set the parking brake to break loose the axis nut...after bending out the crimp.
That's a good idea. I suppose the parking brake would have to be released before the brake rotor will come off, but it's a good option if you're like me and have already jacked up the car without loosening the nuts!
Not difficult if you don’t have to deal with rust
Waoooo 2015 and you already had to replace the hubs 😱 how many miles you put on that car before they went bad ? Thanks for the video
Yup. No car is perfect, and the rear hubs on this particular model are statistically somewhat prone to failure. Mine had 45,000 miles on them, and yes, that's not many miles, but the rest of the car has been excellent. I bought the car used, so perhaps the previous owner left it sitting in high water or something, who knows (and who really cares). I made the personal choice to replace them with Moog hubs, and hopefully they'll last longer than 45,000 miles. Time will tell.
Timken's the best also plan on beating the crap out of it mine was great it came out in two pieces with one still in frozen! any ideas?
Same happened to me. Put the bolts in on the other side, attach a pair of vice grips to the slide hammer, attach the vice grips to the flange on the bolts and start pulling and going around to each of the four bolts evenly. (Make sure the bolts go in enough to catch all the threads of the hub)
@@built4u2 ya it didnt come out couldnt get in there but i will make a tool where it will come out not matter what from one side. any ways your right thats one of the main ways in getting it out for sure.
Sweet 8-track. How many horsepowers do you get from this. You should have replaced the fellow-peen tubes while you had the spleen exposed.
Thanks. A bit of advice: I recommend not doing auto repair work while stoned. :)
Bummer.
@@markbeebe4388 i recommend being stoned lol
Same process for the front wheels?
Sorry, I haven't done the front wheels, so I can't say. I believe it's different, with all the steering apparatus involved.
When living somwhere where they salt roads just take off rear knuckle and save yourself hours of work!
you have an 8 track?
Yes indeed! It's goofy, I know, but when I got it back in the 90's, you could buy 8-track cartridges for like 10-25 cents apiece. I've still got a few, and the players are mechanically very simple machines. It's a fun conversation piece, but as an audio format, it's honestly not very good: audio quality is hit-and-miss, and the cartridges themselves require a lot of hands-on maintenance.
You didn't break your speed sensor?
I suppose not. I did this repair 8 months ago, and everything's been working great since then . . . so: no, I didn't break the speed sensor.
Only way you’d break the sensor would be if you didn’t free the axle from the hub before pulling the hub out
Does your cruise control work? I put an aftermarket hub on my old outback and there were no lights and the abs worked, but freaked out when I tried the cruise control. Replaced the bearing with a Subaru one and it worked fine
Must be a southern car. Nothing comes out that easy on cars in the salt belt
You're correct: I'm in Houston, no salt on the roads here. Just high humidity and plenty of rain.
what size breaker bar?
and are hose round punches?
My breaker bar is 30”, but the length isn’t critical: you just have to be able to turn the big socket with enough strength, depending on how tight it is. Mine was really tight, as you could see: I had to stand on it.
My punches are round. Again, shape isn’t critical, it just has to do the job and be of metal that’s hard enough to bend the divot back on the nut. Maybe a hardened steel screwdriver would’ve worked, or maybe there’s some kind of special tool for this sort of thing, I don’t know.
Obviously not a norhtern car.
Just spent 3 hours busting loose my 2016 Legacy rear wheel hub using a 2 pound hand sledge and a 10 pound real sledge hammer with a "hub removal tool"....and plenty of PB Blaster... Also, i had to fight the axle nut....had to hit it with Blaster, then alternated pounding it with the impact wrench and breaker bar with a cheater...
I like your video because it shows the steps on how to do this job, BUT, if you have a rust belt car, like i do, this video is very misleading.... Just sayin'.
Hey there. I’m really sorry to hear you had so much trouble. Me, I do not live in the Rust Belt at this time, although I did live in St. Louis for a while, so I understand the difficulties that can come with corrosion due to road salt. I hope you are able to get your car back on the road soon, and that this repair is a one-time thing for you. Good luck!
@@markbeebe4388 Thanks for the reply...i did get it done, along with replacing the rear brake pads, the next day....i HAD to get it done because i was leaving for Maui the day after that!