"Boy, sure would have been a lot easier to use mesh tape"😂 Is what my comments would have filled up with. I use paper tape with quickset all the time because I can count on it👍 It's funny when your watching someone else who knows what they are doing it's kind of like watching yourself work. I keep seeing the next step in my head that I would do and then you do it.
At 7:42, it looks like a wood to drywall transition, which you covered in this video - th-cam.com/video/j0_0YB9DRm4/w-d-xo.html. The Drywall Doctor did not treat this as a butt joint, but also did not use a tear away bead. What are reasons to use a tear-away bead vs the technique used here?
@@donaldlee6760 it's because there going to just caulk and paint the wood work it may crack but it should hold up pretty well also the wood is hanging down far enough to get a tight tape coat next to it.
@@stevekveton4326 It would make total sense. Mud sets in fast. I don't think paper has the time to "get wet" properly. Unless you mix your mud very runny. And that creates another problem.
Question. Why is my durabond lifts up from previous mud. I had to change bottom piece of drywall and taped and mudd with 90 durabond and it lifted from old mud only
love your videos...and i study the vancouver carpenter as well.you guys are amazing.thank you for sharing such knowledge for free with us.ive gotten compliments at work and its becuse ive practiced what youve taught me!!!
The fact you had to add the listed "Disclaimer" is a sad commentary. Your work is amazing and constantly refer back to your vids to remind me "how to" as a DIY type - to get me by. Thanks
@@nathanielreyes2234 Ummm no... I am sure you would not put anybody to shame. However your parents as well as your spelling teacher most likely are ashamed.
I realize that this is an older video. But how do you find hot mud sticking to paper tape? I always have problems with the paper tape coming loose prior to the hot mud completely dry. And I've always been concerned about it coming loose after it dries. Whereas paper tape sticks really well too all purpose or taping compound.
Same question as others my Durabond 90 sets in 30 minutes. I use high quality filtered super cold water, to not speed up setting time. I use drill and mixer in small container. I heard the setting time will vary from bag to bag, would that be so much difference between bags??
Because of the volume of drywall finishing that I do when that happens I contact USG they come out take a sample and if they did put 20 in the 90-minute bags they pay me for it.
I can't believe how far you get with 20. I use cold water and I swear I get less then 10 minutes. I just prefilled with durabond 90 and it was setting up way quicker. Have you ever come across this?
Thanks for all your great videos! If I'm just mixing a small batch like 1 pan, I chop it up like so. However, if I'm going to be going through several pans one after the other, I use my regular battery powered drill with cake mixer bits. They work great because their rectangular shape fits well into your pan. I chop the mud a little, then mix with my cake bits for a few seconds and done. Check them out @ Hamilton beach hand mixer replacement beaters.
Hell of a drywaller make it look so easy I might be able to do it hahahah I have a tendency to over work it and try to get it perfect on the 1st and 2nd coat to much
You were beginning to say "regular mud" and then changed your mind about using it, so what exactly is "regular mud"? And how does it differ from Durabond hot mud?
Dude! Watched a couple of your videos. No grass grows under your feet. Your work ethics put young people to shame. I’m 63 and still hanging and mostly finishing drywall. Can’t find any young people that want to learn this trade. What a shame.
Might be the pay. A lot of wood flooring crews around me who were looking for bodies didn't really want to pay. People today aren't going to be out all day doing manual labor for what they could make flipping burgers. Then again, home owners/builders/GCs aren't looking to pay larger invoices either. Everyone is stuck in the 90s except the people looking for work. Just my experience.
That is actual Durabond he is using, and the answer is in the name. It will bond straitflex to drywall, even with a thicker layer between the straitflex and the board. However, it more requires the skill of a tradesman, to use well. EZ - Sand, while a setting material, is a lowering of trade standards for craftsmanship. It does not bond as well, but, it is easier to sand, once an unskilled person makes a mess with it. Straitflex will not bond well to drywall, if there is a substantial layer of standard joint compound, or any of the easy to sand setting compounds over the surface of the board, or under the Straitflex.
Is that brown bag stronger the the easy sand version in the white bag. I've always used the white. And have never used the brown was just wondering if there any particular reason to use the brown over the white? Thanks
Yes, it is. However, even paper tape does not bond well to drywall when there is a substantial layer of compound between it and the drywall surface. An example would be to fill a recessed joint with joint compound, lay paper tape over it, then wipe it down removing no mud from underneath the tape. At anytime in the future, you can peel the tape off, with no evidence of adhesion. Do the same with durabond, and you will need to bring the jackhammer to remove it tomorrow, or 20 years later. Durabond is similar to plaster brown coat, it is best used to fill and/or level/straighten out a surface before the application of tapes, and trims.
OK I see now thanks the for the explanation. I got some cracks to repair on a heated ceiling and was looking for strongest attempt to fix them without chopping into ceiling.
As a carpenter/remodeler, I do some taping on most jobs, but usually no more than a couple dozen sheets at a time. I've always found paper tape to be a problem on flat joints, with intermittent bubbling, and lack of adhesion, as you described. I've heard that wetting the paper tape is the best solution. I started using mesh tape on all flat joints, but with regular mud, and that cracked. My son tapes and told me to use durabond for the first coat of every joint and corner, regardless of type of tape. Now, I use fibafuse and durabond for first coat, and topping after that and no more problems.
I used to work with a guy many many moons ago he never said nothing except good morning and see you tomorrow afternoon or let's take a break our mistake lunch or just instructions to tell me what to do never said nothing the rest of the day did everything by hand everything was pre-mixed and put on Tate in sanded old school that was my very first job I ever had the guy was awesome
I have never been able to match ceiling texture perfectly. Sometimes it turns out better than other times. Are you able to get a perfect match when you match existing textures?
Hi Doc. Looking Good! When the butts are ready to top and skim on the stairwell, will you do them all by hand?.. or can it be done with a 10" or 12" box if your planning on running other butts there on the job? Keep Doing Great! You're entertaining and hilarious!
I wanted to thank you for introduction to Durabond, just used some in my new workshop on the dw joints as a first coat w/o tape. Also found it worked great on some skylight shafts built with rough 2x6 lumber to blend where it meets the sr. Still want to promote you for a home improvement show for cable TV. Gary Brant
I like to see other popular TH-camrs comment on others. I see Ben (Vancouver Carpenter) chimed in. Someone else mentioned Paul Beck. He needs to chime in, as well.... Another person, a do-it-all guy (can’t think of his name), is not a fan of Durabond, because “it is impossible to sand.” How did it sand for you, @Drywall Doctor?
I've been using durabon over 40 years before the light weight setting compounds and I would never try to sand it I always skim with a topping (before +3) or +3 and sand the next day. Makes for a much better finish.
The easy sand products are fine. It's still super hard. You can always add a little thinned down carpenters glue into your mix water for extra strength and adhesion.
Personally, I never apply the tape even with the wall surface that's being ultimately painted, the tape can separate/pull away in time. I bury it under at least 1/8" of mud.
dirty water will make your 20 set faster. i sometimes use dirty water so itll dry quicker. like on cornerbead or something im doing tht needs same day decoration
@@samplaster8823 One brand I picked up from Lowe's set in 5 minutes, but another brand from homedepot does gave me a lot longer working time, both are 20.
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 it dries too fast and it doesn't have enough glue to really hold the tape unlike the compound with green cover that's what i use to put the tape on first.and another thing with the 20 because it dries up so fast the tape doesn't get wet and emblems in the mud like with would with the compound
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 but anyway thanks for responding am a big fan of yours been watching you for years i also do taping here in New York for a small company and i also watch that guy from Canada that goes by the name Vancouver Carpenter he's pretty good at it also
I've been taping only small jobs with durabon or light weight for 47 years and you're right about it setting up fast but when using 20 most of the time I'm waiting 10 minutes or more for it to set up. As soon as it starts to set you cannot tape with it any more.
When I do Patchwork and I use USG quickset easy sand compound 20 minute there's no need for actual tape that compound will not crack I've used it for years and I've never had a call back and I give my customers a 5 year guarantee I have full faith in USG products
I have never been able to match ceiling texture perfectly. Sometimes it turns out better than other times. Are you able to get a perfect match when you match existing textures?
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
"Boy, sure would have been a lot easier to use mesh tape"😂
Is what my comments would have filled up with. I use paper tape with quickset all the time because I can count on it👍 It's funny when your watching someone else who knows what they are doing it's kind of like watching yourself work. I keep seeing the next step in my head that I would do and then you do it.
Vancouver Carpenter you guys are my favorite Drywall you tubers. Awesome work
Vancouver Carpenter I’ve been told by Sheetrock reps that you shouldn’t use paper tape with hot mud.
At 7:42, it looks like a wood to drywall transition, which you covered in this video - th-cam.com/video/j0_0YB9DRm4/w-d-xo.html. The Drywall Doctor did not treat this as a butt joint, but also did not use a tear away bead. What are reasons to use a tear-away bead vs the technique used here?
@@donaldlee6760 it's because there going to just caulk and paint the wood work it may crack but it should hold up pretty well also the wood is
hanging down far enough to get a tight tape coat next to it.
@@stevekveton4326 It would make total sense. Mud sets in fast. I don't think paper has the time to "get wet" properly. Unless you mix your mud very runny. And that creates another problem.
after learning from your video I mixed up some mud but didnt have anything to mud
A guy I work with will never wear a tape holder. He's always going CAN YOU HAND ME MY TAPE . 😒🔫 LOL. LOVE YOUR VIDS MAN YOUR AWESOME ✌
Hey, Doc. Have you ever noticed when talking with ourselves, theres never a beat up drag out fight. :-) Lol
You never saw Fight Club.
Wow you're awesome haven't seen nobody work with the quickness like you!!
Question. Why is my durabond lifts up from previous mud. I had to change bottom piece of drywall and taped and mudd with 90 durabond and it lifted from old mud only
Hot muds and or plaster of paris don't do well topping over wet mud.
I agree. Mesh is for fast pace high board count work, 20 minute and paper are best for patch work.
5:37 you put mud over the torn paper. I thought you had to prime it with a shellac based primer?
Only if it's severe
love your videos...and i study the vancouver carpenter as well.you guys are amazing.thank you for sharing such knowledge for free with us.ive gotten compliments at work and its becuse ive practiced what youve taught me!!!
Norwegian dude here. I agree with you. Those guys are good. Learned a lot from them
Basically, if you want to work stressed - use Durabond 20. 🤗
The fact you had to add the listed "Disclaimer" is a sad commentary. Your work is amazing and constantly refer back to your vids to remind me "how to" as a DIY type - to get me by. Thanks
I'm 20 and I'd put you old gezzirs to shame
@@nathanielreyes2234 Ummm no... I am sure you would not put anybody to shame. However your parents as well as your spelling teacher most likely are ashamed.
Drywall Dr. Get yourself a "Mini Mixer" from Menards for a 3/8 drill, it mixes the durabond awesomely!! No more mixing with the 6!!!
Right.....spin it in a bucket of water after mixing, cleans right up
I realize that this is an older video. But how do you find hot mud sticking to paper tape? I always have problems with the paper tape coming loose prior to the hot mud completely dry. And I've always been concerned about it coming loose after it dries. Whereas paper tape sticks really well too all purpose or taping compound.
Make sure the hot mud is pretty loose the minute it starts to set up you cannot tape with it anymore
Same question as others my Durabond 90 sets in 30 minutes. I use high quality filtered super cold water, to not speed up setting time. I use drill and mixer in small container. I heard the setting time will vary from bag to bag, would that be so much difference between bags??
Yes they may have mixed up the bags and sent out a bunch of 20 in 90 minute bags
Because of the volume of drywall finishing that I do when that happens I contact USG they come out take a sample and if they did put 20 in the 90-minute bags they pay me for it.
I had issues in the past with the paper bubbling if it’s not completely dry. What am I doing wrong?
You have to make sure you have enough mud behind the tape but not to much to crown the seams.
I can't believe how far you get with 20. I use cold water and I swear I get less then 10 minutes. I just prefilled with durabond 90 and it was setting up way quicker. Have you ever come across this?
Yes sometimes it has to do with the minerals in the water from where you're at
Also The longer you mix durabond the faster it’ll set up
Thanks for all your great videos! If I'm just mixing a small batch like 1 pan, I chop it up like so. However, if I'm going to be going through several pans one after the other, I use my regular battery powered drill with cake mixer bits. They work great because their rectangular shape fits well into your pan. I chop the mud a little, then mix with my cake bits for a few seconds and done. Check them out @ Hamilton beach hand mixer replacement beaters.
Hell of a drywaller make it look so easy I might be able to do it hahahah I have a tendency to over work it and try to get it perfect on the 1st and 2nd coat to much
You were beginning to say "regular mud" and then changed your mind about using it, so what exactly is "regular mud"?
And how does it differ from Durabond hot mud?
Regular mud has to dry Dura Bond sets up
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1
Thanks, one more question I should have ask in the first place, what do you use for skim coating?
Plus ➕3 USG
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1
Thanks.
“I got a bad spot on my six”. Go see your dr. ?
It looks like the joint you changed your mind about is a sheetrock panel against a wood edge. Is that right??
Yes
I put my 6 inch taping knife in my back pocket also.
Dude! Watched a couple of your videos. No grass grows under your feet. Your work ethics put young people to shame. I’m 63 and still hanging and mostly finishing drywall. Can’t find any young people that want to learn this trade. What a shame.
I'm deep in it but can't find help
Might be the pay. A lot of wood flooring crews around me who were looking for bodies didn't really want to pay. People today aren't going to be out all day doing manual labor for what they could make flipping burgers. Then again, home owners/builders/GCs aren't looking to pay larger invoices either. Everyone is stuck in the 90s except the people looking for work.
Just my experience.
@@agentx250 what do you mean by stuck in the 90s?
I have used a brown paper bag to do patchwork,I dont think mesh or paper really makes much difference,but I do insist on durabond.
Love the videos. Been learning a lot of tips. Quick question why that durabomd and not the easy sand durabond?
That is actual Durabond he is using, and the answer is in the name. It will bond straitflex to drywall, even with a thicker layer between the straitflex and the board. However, it more requires the skill of a tradesman, to use well. EZ - Sand, while a setting material, is a lowering of trade standards for craftsmanship.
It does not bond as well, but, it is easier to sand, once an unskilled person makes a mess with it.
Straitflex will not bond well to drywall, if there is a substantial layer of standard joint compound, or any of the easy to sand setting compounds over the surface of the board, or under the Straitflex.
Is that brown bag stronger the the easy sand version in the white bag. I've always used the white. And have never used the brown was just wondering if there any particular reason to use the brown over the white? Thanks
Yes, it is. However, even paper tape does not bond well to drywall when there is a substantial layer of compound between it and the drywall surface. An example would be to fill a recessed joint with joint compound, lay paper tape over it, then wipe it down removing no mud from underneath the tape. At anytime in the future, you can peel the tape off, with no evidence of adhesion.
Do the same with durabond, and you will need to bring the jackhammer to remove it tomorrow, or 20 years later. Durabond is similar to plaster brown coat, it is best used to fill and/or level/straighten out a surface before the application of tapes, and trims.
OK I see now thanks the for the explanation. I got some cracks to repair on a heated ceiling and was looking for strongest attempt to fix them without chopping into ceiling.
As a carpenter/remodeler, I do some taping on most jobs, but usually no more than a couple dozen sheets at a time. I've always found paper tape to be a problem on flat joints, with intermittent bubbling, and lack of adhesion, as you described. I've heard that wetting the paper tape is the best solution. I started using mesh tape on all flat joints, but with regular mud, and that cracked. My son tapes and told me to use durabond for the first coat of every joint and corner, regardless of type of tape. Now, I use fibafuse and durabond for first coat, and topping after that and no more problems.
I used to work with a guy many many moons ago he never said nothing except good morning and see you tomorrow afternoon or let's take a break our mistake lunch or just instructions to tell me what to do never said nothing the rest of the day did everything by hand everything was pre-mixed and put on Tate in sanded old school that was my very first job I ever had the guy was awesome
I like the way you explain your work. Thanks for sharing.
This looks like (as Vancouver Carpenter calls it) a tailgate warranty job.
wheres ur videos???
Solid PhD material by the Doc!
I have never been able to match ceiling texture perfectly. Sometimes it turns out better than other times. Are you able to get a perfect match when you match existing textures?
Sometimes but like you said not every time.
I am the guy that the homeowner pays to fix all of your crap. Thanks you keep me in business.
Is good to work with duro bond (power + water mixing ) and. A banjo.
If I use fibafuse, do I need to put another coat of durabond on top of the fibafuse?
No you can finish with regular mud
I like the T-shirt (and the video!).
Check out the Mud n’ More Mix Ball, it mixes quickset mud in seconds. You can double the ingredients if you want to mix more.
Can anyone please tell me why this tape is used with drywall mud ??
Joins the two pieces of drywall together to make it one piece
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 thanks to answer
Hi Doc. Looking Good! When the butts are ready to top and skim on the stairwell, will you do them all by hand?.. or can it be done with a 10" or 12" box if your planning on running other butts there on the job? Keep Doing Great! You're entertaining and hilarious!
What caulk would you suggest to painters?
Paintable caulk I always make sure it's paintable
I wanted to thank you for introduction to Durabond, just used some in my new workshop on the dw joints as a first coat w/o tape. Also found it worked great on some skylight shafts built with rough 2x6 lumber to blend where it meets the sr. Still want to promote you for a home improvement show for cable TV. Gary Brant
Let's do it
I was watching Holmes does it right they started taping and they did it all wrong
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 As I said, send me your particulars to g@univer.sl and I'll get the project started on my side. Gary
My channel blocks web pages and emails email me at thedrywallphd@gmail.com
I can't believe I'm giving you a tip you are an expert in what you do but I like to use a wisk to mix hot mud
I've done that but keep losing the whisk
God Bless you for sharing your wisdom with us!!!
Love this guy just gets the job done
Have you ever had any wrist injuries in your career drywall doctor??
Heading ganglion cyst on my wrist but I fell once smack my hand on the ground so hard it broke and it never came back
We dont have these Durabond 20&90 in New York. I been looking at severald HD’s and Lowes-zero
My local Benjamin Moore has it, and my painter gets his at Sherwin Williams.
USG also makes Durabond 120 and 210 for longer set times.
Lowes & HD do not carry Durabond, but Menards does. 👍👍👍
I like to see other popular TH-camrs comment on others. I see Ben (Vancouver Carpenter) chimed in. Someone else mentioned Paul Beck. He needs to chime in, as well....
Another person, a do-it-all guy (can’t think of his name), is not a fan of Durabond, because “it is impossible to sand.”
How did it sand for you, @Drywall Doctor?
I've been using durabon over 40 years before the light weight setting compounds and I would never try to sand it I always skim with a topping (before +3) or +3 and sand the next day. Makes for a much better finish.
Tape with 6 Finish with a 12 lol leave a flat finish...paper or tape ..but mesh is fast🤔
You're a freaking beast 💪
I'm from a smaller town and can't find Durabond anywhere. Just the easy and stuff. Any suggestions?
The easy sand products are fine. It's still super hard. You can always add a little thinned down carpenters glue into your mix water for extra strength and adhesion.
Please get yourself a dust mask brother!
Personally, I never apply the tape even with the wall surface that's being ultimately painted, the tape can separate/pull away in time. I bury it under at least 1/8" of mud.
Try fibafuse for butt joints it's thin and you can feather it out nice.
Talking to your tape
Any reason this mud would harden in about 5 min instead of 20? I mixed it with a drill in a bucket.
The Drywall Doctor that's what it seemed like. The bag said 20.
dirty water will make your 20 set faster. i sometimes use dirty water so itll dry quicker. like on cornerbead or something im doing tht needs same day decoration
Bc thts how all 20 min is. Would never use it. 45 min is the way to go
@@samplaster8823 One brand I picked up from Lowe's set in 5 minutes, but another brand from homedepot does gave me a lot longer working time, both are 20.
Dirty water
I love this guy !
I like wetting my paper taper when using quick set. She doesn’t bubble then
I cant believe you used the 20 to put the tape on that wont hold at all the tape will definitely be lifting up in 6-8 yrs time
If it does USG owes me a lot of money. It says right on the bag you can apply tape with this product.
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 it dries too fast and it doesn't have enough glue to really hold the tape unlike the compound with green cover that's what i use to put the tape on first.and another thing with the 20 because it dries up so fast the tape doesn't get wet and emblems in the mud like with would with the compound
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 USG also says those products are easy to sand and it ain't
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 but anyway thanks for responding am a big fan of yours been watching you for years i also do taping here in New York for a small company and i also watch that guy from Canada that goes by the name Vancouver Carpenter he's pretty good at it also
I've been taping only small jobs with durabon or light weight for 47 years and you're right about it setting up fast but when using 20 most of the time I'm waiting 10 minutes or more for it to set up. As soon as it starts to set you cannot tape with it any more.
I use the 5 min mud but it seems slow. Lookin for some 2 minute online🚀
If you mix with hot water it usually cuts time more than half. 20 min with hot water turns into 7 min
Chuck Norris puts on preset mud
Good videos
I gotta bad spot on my six 💯🇨🇦👍🏼🌎
I need some new videos doc .
I know soon
How come you never texture
What was the bad spot on your six?
leaves a little line like a raker.
Probably just a nick from running it into a screw
I mix mine with a putty knife...
When I do Patchwork and I use USG quickset easy sand compound 20 minute there's no need for actual tape that compound will not crack I've used it for years and I've never had a call back and I give my customers a 5 year guarantee I have full faith in USG products
You better always use tape because it will crack
Your work is better when you don’t sing
👍👍😊
My like is exactly 500 likes 🤙🤙🤙
very nice your videos friend but the aces very short of time
👍👍👍
I have never been able to match ceiling texture perfectly. Sometimes it turns out better than other times. Are you able to get a perfect match when you match existing textures?
if youre good at texture it usually turns out nice. some people have this ability some dont