Thanks David you are a wealth of knowledge. Anyone who takes engine building seriously knows you and are usually at the top of the list. Someday I hope to take one of your classes. Thank you for sharing your Knowledge with us. My condolences I heard about your partner Passing
My customary Half Cut Kiwi Emotions and a Tickford Tick to you Mr Vizard. My neighbour had a Camaro 1971 LT-1 engine, we purchased an approx 295degree at lash hydraulic custom cam in New Zealand in 1994, to replace the factory 326 degree solid cam, to boost the horsepower and torque. The actual cam master was ground to copy dyno plots from tests done on the Fuelie headed 350 LT-1 70 Corvette engine. It's amazing how cam lift profile have gotten so much less at lash duration, but so much more 50 thou duration. That's a lesson learned by Ford Australia in the 1971 351C 4V HO solid lifter engine, , when they took 10 degrees at lash lift off the K code 289 based profile used on the 340 HP Phase II engine, and gained 10 HP with a 300 duration at lash cam. It had 10 degrees more at 50 lift than the K code based cam, and a different exhaust duration and lift profile to the intake. When the 380 HP version was dyno tested for the Phase IV engine, it used the same cam and through only intake port bowl work, gained 40 HP over the wilder 1970 solid lifter engine. Tested in 2017, a similar 1977 Australian block 351 C 4V headed engine made 462 estimated flywheel HP. See "vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?176600-351c-engine-build-in-my-73-Mach-1" "  The rear wheels/tires are 15x10's and tires are 295/50/15's. To wrap up this thread here is when I took the car to the dyno. I was very pleased with the numbers as it met my expectations for the build. 362hp/350tq at the rear wheels."
Good video David, thanks for sharing all your knowledge. I really enjoy reading your books, especially on the big block Chevy. I wouldn't run a flat tappet these days, too many failures. Like you said, run a flat tappet if you have too. Otherwise hydraulic or solid roller is the way to go.
I'm glad that you republished this video. The first time that I watched it, I don't recall seeing the cylinder head off mixed up boss. Is that cut section on your desk a piece of one of those heads? Regards Greg
I would be very interested to hear your opinion of coatings such as Titanium Nitride, or the black diamond-like material for cams. I'm aware that DLC is used on some lifters. It seems to me that for flat tappet cams, the coatings would greatly reduce friction.
I just have to comment to thank you Dave. You have made a massive difference in how I have built engines over my lifetime. From my early auto-grass cars built using your Austin Rover A-series book through to Honda builds using your B+D series book. Thank you for sharing throughout the years. Everything that you have said has worked for me and led to a good few championships being won, which I wouldn't have been possible (legally, lol) without you.
Howards flat tappet 112031-08 for a mild street SBC is a home run in my opinion. Best I've ever tried for that application. I'd love to see dyno test on it to see it's powerband. I chose it from the numbers lift in the high 400s of .480" and not to of an agressive duration 232° @ .050but still had some and fairly tight LSA of 108, ICL of 106, adv dur 285. those numbers with there description of "good for heavy vehicals" rpm range 2800-6400. That is conservative it makes great TQ at very low rpms in my application of 2.02 valved ported 76cc 993's, 9:1 355 SBC with an original Torker intake with 2" spacer anyway. I had a 2500 stall converter originally but I put the original V6 truck converter back in it just to realize the 2500 was not necessary for drivability reasons, I can mash the throttle from an idle and it will roar to life with enthusiasm smooth as silk.... And as a topping it has a beautiful lumpy idle. I'm not saying it's better than the one being recommended I'm just mentioning that its a gem I stumbled onto to, a cam that works great in a fairly common old school budget setup, It just seems like it covers about as many bases as one cam could. I wish I knew of a cam that would give me the same exact results in a HR for my 95 5.0HO. but open plenum carbed induction compared to ford's HO EFI setup is so vastly different its hard transfer results back n forth without going carb swap and I'm not doing that I'm trying to embrace efi for once...trying.
Been looking for a cam for my stock(ish) 355 with 601 heads on it. The 601 flow very close to the double hump but have like a 54cc chamber. This cam sounds about perfect for my needs. I also want a rougher more aggressive idle.
I would think you could easily be up 10% on ftLbs with a good flat tappet versus hydraulic. Probably 15% on a Chrysler since you can be more aggressive with the bigger lifter diameter.
AND THEN THERE'S THE MUSHROOM lifters,i use them as i can adjust durations and it also saves the lifters as there is no harmonics going on at rpms in the 7200 rpm range,bumping valves open is wonderful closing them on time is better,oh well, this man comprehends fit form and function,in internal combustion engines its all about friction and the ridding of it,esp rod stroke ration,with this cam and friction loss in the cylinders you can make a small block scream
Wondering your thoughts on all the flat tappet lifter failures these days. Referring to lifter faces pitting destroying the cam. Are all manufacturers have the same issue as the Biggest supplier?
What would be a comparable roller cam? Wouldn't a roller cam even with a set of link bar aftermarket lifters be close or better using a roller chevy block? So stock double hump heads pocket ported or did you use larger valves?
@@darrellsomers5427 The 460 is a good truck engine, but it is way too heavy for a car. I wish I could afford afford a Roush-Yates Cleveland. But my budget is on the FE. Trust me, if you apply Mr Vizards principles from the SBC to the FE you will be greatly rewarded. The factory 390 heads can be ported to produce good power. A 406 or 428 should you find a thick block for a 4.13-4.16 bore the Edelbrock heads are economical, and even the lowly 352/390 heads can make 600 hp in a street oriented engine. Blair Patrick won EMC vintage class with a 400 ci 390 against all comers including the 427 Chevy Big Block using the 352/390 heads. What more proof is needed? A street oriented engine with Ford iron well worked 1.49 hp per ci. And I found out that it weighed the same as a 351W.
@@darrellsomers5427 I prefer the 396ci FE. Blair Patrick built a 4.098x 3.79 400ci , a stock block, a 391 truck steel crank worked over, C4AE-G heads with 2.15/1.65 valves the originally came on the 352-390 and made 597 just under 1.5 hp per ci and won the EMC vintage class with many SBCs and even a 427 BBC. It could run on pump 91. And it weighs the same as a 351W with the aluminum intake.
His name sounds Familia as I have had his Book "How to Rebuild the Small Block Chevy" for many years It appears he did not write "How to Hot Rod the Small Block Chevy" However
These are the specs of cam that went into my 383 SBC, roller motor. Ported edelbrock Vic jr, 750 holley. It is an absolute amazing build. 280/284 @.006" 232/236 @.050" .360"/.360" Lobe Lift .576"/.576" Valve Lift 108 LSA
Dear Mr. Vizard I have some questions regarding another topic - related to Buick/Rover 215 CUI/3,5 liter V8’s that are often used in Europe, where I life. Can you share experience about this engine and maybe even give advice about what to do when my project involves these parameters: - budget around 3.000 dollars for tuning (Stock engine as basis - 155 bhp twin SU’s) - high rpm wanted - 7000-7500 to hold gears for long - 0-100 km/h 1.st 2.nd gear mainly needed during narrow track courses - 250 bhp is ok - 300 would be super - As much diy as possible - replace with 300 CUI? Again Thanks for sharing! - BR - Peter from Denmark
I had a bone infection, and ran a temperature over 107, as far as I know, the only remaining effect Is memory, I can be talking about something and completely forget what I was saying, my seeing letters backwards is worse, and forgetting how to spell things, a lot of things like that, I can see something on a shelf, and pick up the wrong thing, it's been years, I hope it doesn't progress, but the things I forget, are brought back at the strangest times, the things can not be related at all, it's strange, and I have feelings from thoughts, physical feelings,. And can be watching a video about atomic bomb test, and smell something hot, it's strange, and that works backwards also, the brain is very strange!
I feel ya buddy. Wife walked in the house found me blue with a 32 pulse. How long? Don’t know, but I life what you feel too. And now rebuilding a modern Gen V tuning it too. It’s nearly impossible. I don’t trust myself. That’s worst than doing it right. Live hard brother
100hp yes, but at a higher rpm. I'm more interested in making more power out of a small block off idle to 3500rpm. Not at 5 or 6 grand. Cams just raise the rpms where the engine makes power. Only way to get more power at a lower rpm is increase the compression and build some cylinder pressure. Need torque at low rpm for a street truck engine and get mileage. My present 350 I'm going is a very short duration cam. Barely over stock and bump compression almost to 10 to 1. Small valve heads and ports and SP2P intake. See how it works.
Just be cautious with Short duration camshaft and high static compression ratio as it will give high dynamic cylinder pressure. This would be a knock-prone engine combination with pump gas.
If just looking for more low end power on a small block, would definitely recommend a 383 stroker kit, aiming for around 9 to1 compression. Use small cam, small valve stock heads, stock, SP2P, or Performer intake with spread bore carb, stock exhaust manifolds or small diameter headers with dual exhaust, & low restriction mufflers. Could also advance the cam timing. Would be a smooth running, but low RPM torque monster, great for hauling or towing.
@@111000100101001 yes I'm aware of that. My dynamic comes out to about 8.3 to 8.35 and I plan on using 91 pump gas in this 350 so I think it should be very snappy. I'm putting on the HO305 heads with 1.835 intake valves and small chambers and 12 cc dish pistons, static compression is about 9.8 to 9.9 to 1. Howard's 201/207@50 camshaft with 114 centers.
@@johnmcmullen456 before id do a 383 I got about ten 400 small blocks id go that route and build one of them but u can easy run 9.5 compression on them, just did a 383 a couple years ago with flattops and 487 heads and came out about 9.5 to 1. I did a compression check on it 200psi on all 8 cylinders and runs great on 87 pump gas just fine but if pulling I think I'd put 91 in it to be safe and would probably run even better! So now on all my engines I'm going put no less than 9.5 to 10 to 1 in them and not leave any power on the table but still want be able to put timing in them also. I'm thinking 10 to 1 is about the limit for 91 octane but need to experiment and fine out. Cooling temperatures and head design will probably effect it. But takes compression to make power and torque and I'm tired of the low psi pressures of the 8 to 1 engines of the 70s.
Im building a .060 over 350 decked down with 64 cc swirl ports and a ramjet roller cam, performer, headers. going to be around 9.3cr going into my squarebody daily driver...wish me luck
Hi Darrel, I have Bullet/ UD 279350 for the Ford FE, it is 245/245@.050 with an a asymmetrical exhaust and with 1.75 rockers .6125 lift as a hydraulic or .5945 with.018 lash and 108 LSA . A friend ran it in his 428 and his brother ran it in a 452 ci engine a 427 4.23 bore and 3.98 stroke. It is a great cam on a street or race engine!
Your killing me I'm just a poor hot rodder I've never seen a 108 cam center line make power like a 112 -114 pat mussi rolling thunder cams for the street are 112 there made by edelbrock in my option I would never buy a comp cam ,crowed or crane would be my choice
Sounds good , but you came up short with cam spec's, If your gonna tell the watchers about a cam that gives a 9 to 1 350 engine over 100 horsepower, don't you think to prove yourself you would give us the spec's ??.. Sounds fishy to me.. what good is it to tell us that it could be done without telling us how. Giving part #'s don't help, sounds like your just selling stuff. "and they aren't cheep"
100hp cam Plussssss Worked cylinder heads New bigger carb New intake manifold Bigger roller rockers ratio Etc.... I thought it was literally just a cam swap. That would have been impressive lol
Thanks David you are a wealth of knowledge. Anyone who takes engine building seriously knows you and are usually at the top of the list. Someday I hope to take one of your classes. Thank you for sharing your Knowledge with us. My condolences I heard about your partner Passing
I’ve known Mike Jones for over 40 years. We went to High School together. He’s one of the best people you could ever to call a friend!
My customary Half Cut Kiwi Emotions and a Tickford Tick to you Mr Vizard. My neighbour had a Camaro 1971 LT-1 engine, we purchased an approx 295degree at lash hydraulic custom cam in New Zealand in 1994, to replace the factory 326 degree solid cam, to boost the horsepower and torque. The actual cam master was ground to copy dyno plots from tests done on the Fuelie headed 350 LT-1 70 Corvette engine. It's amazing how cam lift profile have gotten so much less at lash duration, but so much more 50 thou duration. That's a lesson learned by Ford Australia in the 1971 351C 4V HO solid lifter engine, , when they took 10 degrees at lash lift off the K code 289 based profile used on the 340 HP Phase II engine, and gained 10 HP with a 300 duration at lash cam. It had 10 degrees more at 50 lift than the K code based cam, and a different exhaust duration and lift profile to the intake. When the 380 HP version was dyno tested for the Phase IV engine, it used the same cam and through only intake port bowl work, gained 40 HP over the wilder 1970 solid lifter engine. Tested in 2017, a similar 1977 Australian block 351 C 4V headed engine made 462 estimated flywheel HP. See "vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?176600-351c-engine-build-in-my-73-Mach-1"
"

The rear wheels/tires are 15x10's and tires are 295/50/15's.
To wrap up this thread here is when I took the car to the dyno. I was very pleased with the numbers as it met my expectations for the build. 362hp/350tq at the rear wheels."
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Just in time for some brain candy! Good afternoon to you all, I will now be enjoying your videos and passing it on when I am done.
Thank you for sharing this with all of us.
This cam didn't lose much low end torque considering the 100 hp gain he got. Brilliant!
Good video David, thanks for sharing all your knowledge. I really enjoy reading your books, especially on the big block Chevy. I wouldn't run a flat tappet these days, too many failures. Like you said, run a flat tappet if you have too. Otherwise hydraulic or solid roller is the way to go.
It's my neighbor Mr. Bob Russell from Oregon trail.
He had aircraft piston melted down recast for model T. Don't think to hard David.
Vice Grip Garage Derrick tour of Ford abandoned bldgs. If you can figure this out?
Your the one who is King of turning the page.!!!
I'm glad that you republished this video. The first time that I watched it, I don't recall seeing the cylinder head off mixed up boss. Is that cut section on your desk a piece of one of those heads? Regards Greg
I would be very interested to hear your opinion of coatings such as Titanium Nitride, or the black diamond-like material for cams. I'm aware that DLC is used on some lifters. It seems to me that for flat tappet cams, the coatings would greatly reduce friction.
THANK YOU DAVID
Thank you David.
Thsts a great story. Love it!!!
Such a great Viedeo and amazing how much potential the stock engines have. If you know how
Wildly interesting stuff! Thank you.
I just have to comment to thank you Dave. You have made a massive difference in how I have built engines over my lifetime. From my early auto-grass cars built using your Austin Rover A-series book through to Honda builds using your B+D series book. Thank you for sharing throughout the years. Everything that you have said has worked for me and led to a good few championships being won, which I wouldn't have been possible (legally, lol) without you.
Mike Jones Camshaft Designs! These cams have 'lobes' of steeL.
It sounds like you changed the rockers too did you retest the stock cam once you were done
Howards flat tappet 112031-08 for a mild street SBC is a home run in my opinion. Best I've ever tried for that application. I'd love to see dyno test on it to see it's powerband. I chose it from the numbers lift in the high 400s of .480" and not to of an agressive duration 232° @ .050but still had some and fairly tight LSA of 108, ICL of 106, adv dur 285. those numbers with there description of "good for heavy vehicals" rpm range 2800-6400. That is conservative it makes great TQ at very low rpms in my application of 2.02 valved ported 76cc 993's, 9:1 355 SBC with an original Torker intake with 2" spacer anyway. I had a 2500 stall converter originally but I put the original V6 truck converter back in it just to realize the 2500 was not necessary for drivability reasons, I can mash the throttle from an idle and it will roar to life with enthusiasm smooth as silk.... And as a topping it has a beautiful lumpy idle. I'm not saying it's better than the one being recommended I'm just mentioning that its a gem I stumbled onto to, a cam that works great in a fairly common old school budget setup, It just seems like it covers about as many bases as one cam could. I wish I knew of a cam that would give me the same exact results in a HR for my 95 5.0HO. but open plenum carbed induction compared to ford's HO EFI setup is so vastly different its hard transfer results back n forth without going carb swap and I'm not doing that I'm trying to embrace efi for once...trying.
I think the edelbrock RPM cam would be a better choice but that's just me
Budget bumping chk out Ben almededa racing he's a ford guru like dv ,he knows ford engines for info
Dv I would like to see tests on the LSA of ls engines. I have lately built one and am impressed with it, it is a little power house
Richard holdener has a test on it
Good luck with your new channel
Been looking for a cam for my stock(ish) 355 with 601 heads on it. The 601 flow very close to the double hump but have like a 54cc chamber. This cam sounds about perfect for my needs. I also want a rougher more aggressive idle.
I would think you could easily be up 10% on ftLbs with a good flat tappet versus hydraulic. Probably 15% on a Chrysler since you can be more aggressive with the bigger lifter diameter.
AND THEN THERE'S THE MUSHROOM lifters,i use them as i can adjust durations and it also saves the lifters as there is no harmonics going on at rpms in the 7200 rpm range,bumping valves open is wonderful closing them on time is better,oh well, this man comprehends fit form and function,in internal combustion engines its all about friction and the ridding of it,esp rod stroke ration,with this cam and friction loss in the cylinders you can make a small block scream
Big horsepower, Camshafts, bets. Sounds like a WILLING lift.
Wondering your thoughts on all the flat tappet lifter failures these days. Referring to lifter faces pitting destroying the cam. Are all manufacturers have the same issue as the Biggest supplier?
It's the OIL....obamas EPA took the Zinc and Phosphorous out of it in 2006-2007...Just like ziden,He ruined EVERYTHING he touched !
Could you explain the reason for the rocker ratio variation
What would be a comparable roller cam? Wouldn't a roller cam even with a set of link bar aftermarket lifters be close or better using a roller chevy block? So stock double hump heads pocket ported or did you use larger valves?
Can you study the 396 ci Ford FE Tunnel Port with a 4.25 and Ithink 3.5 stroke. There was a NASCAR engine in the late 60s that was astounding.
Don't waste your money on a 390 buy a 385 series 429/460
@@darrellsomers5427 The 460 is a good truck engine, but it is way too heavy for a car. I wish I could afford afford a Roush-Yates Cleveland. But my budget is on the FE. Trust me, if you apply Mr Vizards principles from the SBC to the FE you will be greatly rewarded. The factory 390 heads can be ported to produce good power. A 406 or 428 should you find a thick block for a 4.13-4.16 bore the Edelbrock heads are economical, and even the lowly 352/390 heads can make 600 hp in a street oriented engine. Blair Patrick won EMC vintage class with a 400 ci 390 against all comers including the 427 Chevy Big Block using the 352/390 heads. What more proof is needed? A street oriented engine with Ford iron well worked 1.49 hp per ci. And I found out that it weighed the same as a 351W.
@@darrellsomers5427 I prefer the 396ci FE. Blair Patrick built a 4.098x 3.79 400ci , a stock block, a 391 truck steel crank worked over, C4AE-G heads with 2.15/1.65 valves the originally came on the 352-390 and made 597 just under 1.5 hp per ci and won the EMC vintage class with many SBCs and even a 427 BBC. It could run on pump 91. And it weighs the same as a 351W with the aluminum intake.
Thanks for sharing.
How do I determine what LSA I need?? Thanks for the video!!
Thanks
His name sounds Familia as I have had his Book "How to Rebuild the Small Block Chevy" for many years It appears he did not write "How to Hot Rod the Small Block Chevy" However
What was the fuel in this application. 😎
These are the specs of cam that went into my 383 SBC, roller motor. Ported edelbrock Vic jr, 750 holley. It is an absolute amazing build.
280/284 @.006"
232/236 @.050"
.360"/.360" Lobe Lift
.576"/.576" Valve Lift
108 LSA
Is this a polished cam with hydraulic lifters ?
I don’t know if David wants people to know or not. The young Woman he posts at the end of every video is his daughter..
What use is that power if its so high up in the RPM band? Need down low torque and HP!
Dear Mr. Vizard
I have some questions regarding another topic - related to Buick/Rover 215 CUI/3,5 liter V8’s that are often used in Europe, where I life.
Can you share experience about this engine and maybe even give advice about what to do when my project involves these parameters:
- budget around 3.000 dollars for tuning (Stock engine as basis - 155 bhp twin SU’s)
- high rpm wanted - 7000-7500 to hold gears for long
- 0-100 km/h 1.st 2.nd gear mainly needed during narrow track courses
- 250 bhp is ok - 300 would be super
- As much diy as possible
- replace with 300 CUI?
Again Thanks for sharing!
- BR - Peter from Denmark
How you getting 10.5 with a 14 cc dish
I looked up their prices and maybe I’m missing something but thy don’t look that expensive at sbout $300. That’s what thy have listed.
I had a bone infection, and ran a temperature over 107, as far as I know, the only remaining effect Is memory, I can be talking about something and completely forget what I was saying, my seeing letters backwards is worse, and forgetting how to spell things, a lot of things like that, I can see something on a shelf, and pick up the wrong thing, it's been years, I hope it doesn't progress, but the things I forget, are brought back at the strangest times, the things can not be related at all, it's strange, and I have feelings from thoughts, physical feelings,. And can be watching a video about atomic bomb test, and smell something hot, it's strange, and that works backwards also, the brain is very strange!
I feel ya buddy. Wife walked in the house found me blue with a 32 pulse. How long? Don’t know, but I life what you feel too. And now rebuilding a modern Gen V tuning it too. It’s nearly impossible. I don’t trust myself. That’s worst than doing it right. Live hard brother
100hp yes, but at a higher rpm. I'm more interested in making more power out of a small block off idle to 3500rpm. Not at 5 or 6 grand. Cams just raise the rpms where the engine makes power. Only way to get more power at a lower rpm is increase the compression and build some cylinder pressure. Need torque at low rpm for a street truck engine and get mileage. My present 350 I'm going is a very short duration cam. Barely over stock and bump compression almost to 10 to 1. Small valve heads and ports and SP2P intake. See how it works.
Just be cautious with Short duration camshaft and high static compression ratio as it will give high dynamic cylinder pressure. This would be a knock-prone engine combination with pump gas.
If just looking for more low end power on a small block, would definitely recommend a 383 stroker kit, aiming for around 9 to1 compression. Use small cam, small valve stock heads, stock, SP2P, or Performer intake with spread bore carb, stock exhaust manifolds or small diameter headers with dual exhaust, & low restriction mufflers. Could also advance the cam timing. Would be a smooth running, but low RPM torque monster, great for hauling or towing.
@@111000100101001 yes I'm aware of that. My dynamic comes out to about 8.3 to 8.35 and I plan on using 91 pump gas in this 350 so I think it should be very snappy. I'm putting on the HO305 heads with 1.835 intake valves and small chambers and 12 cc dish pistons, static compression is about 9.8 to 9.9 to 1. Howard's 201/207@50 camshaft with 114 centers.
@@johnmcmullen456 before id do a 383 I got about ten 400 small blocks id go that route and build one of them but u can easy run 9.5 compression on them, just did a 383 a couple years ago with flattops and 487 heads and came out about 9.5 to 1. I did a compression check on it 200psi on all 8 cylinders and runs great on 87 pump gas just fine but if pulling I think I'd put 91 in it to be safe and would probably run even better! So now on all my engines I'm going put no less than 9.5 to 10 to 1 in them and not leave any power on the table but still want be able to put timing in them also. I'm thinking 10 to 1 is about the limit for 91 octane but need to experiment and fine out. Cooling temperatures and head design will probably effect it. But takes compression to make power and torque and I'm tired of the low psi pressures of the 8 to 1 engines of the 70s.
Im building a .060 over 350 decked down with 64 cc swirl ports and a ramjet roller cam, performer, headers. going to be around 9.3cr going into my squarebody daily driver...wish me luck
Ultradyne made some good cams with good dyno# they sold to bullet cams not cheap but they work
Hi Darrel, I have Bullet/ UD 279350 for the Ford FE, it is 245/245@.050 with an a asymmetrical exhaust and with 1.75 rockers .6125 lift as a hydraulic or .5945 with.018 lash and 108 LSA . A friend ran it in his 428 and his brother ran it in a 452 ci engine a 427 4.23 bore and 3.98 stroke. It is a great cam on a street or race engine!
Awesome good stuff
What is the lobe separation?
Usually on a 350 sbc it’s 108. Inline 6, 4 bangers etc usually need a hair more or less.
@@jeromewieland55 : I know what it should be. I was wondering if the cam followed his rule.
He loves the 108 pat mussi loves the 112 and so do I 112-114 is what I like that's just what has made more power on the street
So you jumped through a bunch of hoops instead of building the correct combo .Thank you for all your research work.
🔔😎 YeeeeHaaaaw!!!
👍👍👍
Harvey Crane may have lost $500 on the bet, but he received $10k worth of free advertising, no?
Many sbc cams make about 200 hp over stock.
No lol
but not with stock manifolds and heads and carb. as DV showed, the cam alone without tuning is prob good for 50HP max and no improvement at lower RPM
That's a dime per HP.....
If that's the going rate I have a 69 Mopar B block I'd like 750 HP out of, $75 will get me there? 😂 😜
AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT 😎 lols let er rip.....
So this cam is not a scam....😁😁😁
just proved that short valve lift is what limits RPM in this case
👍
Your killing me I'm just a poor hot rodder I've never seen a 108 cam center line make power like a 112 -114 pat mussi rolling thunder cams for the street are 112 there made by edelbrock in my option I would never buy a comp cam ,crowed or crane would be my choice
Lolololololol.
The combination just needed more cam, that cam is not going to give you that kind of gain on a mild small block.
Sounds good , but you came up short with cam spec's, If your gonna tell the watchers about a cam that gives a 9 to 1 350 engine over 100 horsepower, don't you think to prove yourself you would give us the spec's ??.. Sounds fishy to me.. what good is it to tell us that it could be done without telling us how. Giving part #'s don't help, sounds like your just selling stuff. "and they aren't cheep"
Look up the part number, does someone else always have to do everything for you?
100hp cam
Plussssss
Worked cylinder heads
New bigger carb
New intake manifold
Bigger roller rockers ratio
Etc....
I thought it was literally just a cam swap. That would have been impressive lol