A flexible duct! When I saw you pull that out of the ceiling I was stunned. I never even thought to use flexible ducting. I was dreading replacing our old 3" ducted fan and I didn't get the easier EZ Retrofit Whisper model so needed to do a bit of fussing with our ducts. I had the 4"-3" galvanized reducer but also needed a small extender. I saw your video and it was like an epiphany. Headed over to get a piece of flexi and voila - so much easier. Thanks for great visual advice and a great video.
Rat nest/poop. This is the best video I have found to retrofit with a Panasonic whisper. Thank you, sir! But let me tell you all something. As a first time homeowner, I had no idea animals can find their way to your bathroom fan. When I took the duct right off the old fan, I got a suprise light shower of rat crap. I saw it was piled into the funnel, clogging any air from getting out. Stay safe y’all.
DO NOT RELY on the switch to power off. It is sometimes possible that the switch was wired up backwards making the neutral the switchable leg meaning that the hot is always on to the vent assembly. In this case, regardless if the switch is in the off position, you will get zapped TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE PANEL!
I think this is the best install video for a retrofit. I've seen a few that were plain wrong. The installation instructions also aren't great. I also reeeeeeally like the tip you give where since this fan is larger than your typical contractor grade unit you can actually cut the ceiling first and gain access to the nails/screws to remove the old unit. Unfortunately I had some condensation issues in my previous pipe and as a result some water had leaked and gotten on the ceiling so I had some drywall repair to do. Still it helped watching this.
Thanks for the video. I hate the idea of going up into our dusty old attic. This is the 4th or 5th video about installing the Panasonic Whisper Retrofit that I have seen. It is the only one that gives me enough confidence to go to Home Depot and buy the fan with any hope of installing it.
Thank you. I'm an idiot and just couldn't understand how the fan would attach to the ceiling or bracket. There are no screw holes to mount the fan to the bracket. I watched like 5 other videos and yours was the only that mentioned the self tapping screws just drill into the bracket anywhere......duh!
Thanks for this, it was very timely. However there were a few things that were not clear to me. First, it would be good if you could put some better light on the project. Shooting video with 2 ceiling lights in back of you guarantees the camera will darken the image. Second, you don't explain what you mean by "split the difference" at 1:31. What exactly are the two things you are splitting? Is the size of the template based on the instructions? Finally, is it magic that the fan runs? You do not show how the electric is connected to the fan, but at 13:44 you shove the assembly into the opening; later when you put the bracket are the screws also connecting that assembly to the bracket? Again, thanks. I am about to give this a try, although I have a lot of trepidation.
Correct on splitting the difference with the template. The new fan is bigger than the old one. Electric is very easy on the fan. Black to black, white to white, and ground to ground. Very straightforward on the wiring. Agree on lighting. Good luck with the project, you got this!
Panasonic retrofit versions, are a must for changing out the useless old grinding Broan Nuton junks. the bracket mounitng of the superbly designed Panasonic, is great, the solid painted fan assy won't corrode . They are designed to install from below with the folding bracket assy, the fan body screws into the bracket anywhere along the rails. Brilliant design, easy to attach rail to the existing rafter, line up and snap the exhaust duct to the pre mounted piece, fan assy snap in place secure with screws. Don't forget the ground screw to tie them together as for UL listing, make sure fan speed is set, and exhaust ducting is secured to adaptor, with wire tie or good metal tape..best fans available. several models, get teh retrofit ones, not teh ones for new build, diffrent system of mounting, retrofit versions are brilliant to replace exiting junk Broans, from below
Another comment mentioned this, but towards the end I’m not seeing what those screws are going into other than just drywall which doesn’t work. It is where you say how incredibly tight those screws get.
Great video, thanks I have sub'd. My 8 year old Panasonic fan quit working, I have cleaned it, it appears to be electrical, I replaced the single switch, still no power at the unit. Yes I will turn off the electrical, yes I have a tester.
just ordered a Panasonic fan to install in my daughter's house. She has the cement grinder old junk, useless, got the Panasonic retrofit version for this same reason, RETROFIT.
Changed out the 3 old Broan cement grinders with 3 new Panasonic. Retrofit models. 2 no light, one with the LED light. SILENCE and lots of air draw. Taking out the old ones mounted with NM cable clamps! Talk about cheesey. But good to remove. Slide up the Panasonic bracket, fantastic. The plastic slip on reducer to fit existing duct. Ours where the 3 speed, set all to high speed, SILENT, they are inverter driven, ramp up to speed. But I use WAGO, WAGO is easier and quicker. Wire nuts are so 20th century. Clever design with Panasonic, they make it little bigger so when you pull out the old junk, you have room to work, and the Panasonic covers it all. Best vent fans out there, clever designs for retrofit, how the electrical box and duct section comes off to make work easy
My duct/wiring assembly seems to hit the bracket. Does it matter how thick the ceiling + bracket is (@ 14:00 in the video) I'm 90% of the way there and a bit frustrated I can't get this last part in.
Best video I've seen on this fan. But, does the fan have to orient a specific way to the joists? Unfortunately, I think it does. I had to rotate the fan 90 degrees from the way the last fan was hooked up so the ducting and electrical would both reach the unit. I tried to install the unit with the face of the duct/electrical hookup parallel to joists- and when I tried to connect the fan to the utility hookup (the piece connected to the ducting and electrical) the fan was blocked by the bracket. There is nothing in the directions that specify which way the fan needs to sit in the ceiling and I don't think it was mentioned here or in any other videos I've seen- if you do another retro fit video for this fan, maybe add that nugget. Thanks again for a good video.
You can add 2x4 blocking and "turn" the bracket around if need be. If you attach the bracket to the existing joists the retrofit will have to go to the left or right of the existing joist, which usually is a standard install practice on the existing fan. What you have going on is unique. 2x4 bracing to flip the bracket around is your best bet and that's what I would do in your situation. Thanks for the kind words. I did recently did an updated exhaust fan video, but never thought to mention what your problem is. In 2 years I'll be sure to include it in another video, th-cam.com/video/G0BEpSTi-1k/w-d-xo.html
I missed how the large fan unit connected to the exhaust duct and the power. I saw how you hooked the duct and power to the 'side section' and then stuffed the side section up there.. seems like it was just stuffed up there and not connected to anything. Then you pushed the large fan section up in the hole but didn't show any step to connect it to the side section.
I have a new exhaust fan video dropping in 2 weeks that explains the most asked questions, like this one, people have had on the install. I have cameras in the attic, lol.
Great video, this really helped me visualize the install process. So 110 CFM will not work with 3 in duct? What happens if you try to switch it to 110? I have a ~100sqft bathroom and I'm replacing my 50 CFM with this. I have 3in duct as well. I was hoping to use 110 but 80 should be OK I suppose.
The 3” duct can only do around 80 cfm in a perfect situation since it’s a small diameter hose. Back pressure will build up most likely at the 110 cfm setting. 4” has a lot more air able to be pushed through.
7:06-7:10 if you pause around there you see there’s a Phillips head screw shown on the box. You just remove that screw and the cover pops off. After that, you install a romex connector and some wire on the cover then it’s black to black, white to white, ground to ground. It’s covered in the video, but I didn’t spend much time on the actual cover since when you get the fan, it’s pretty in your face. Good luck with the install!
That's a good question. There's a calculation you can do(google search), BUT, you are limited to what type of ducting is existing. If it's only 3" duct, you are limited to the lower setting on the fan. If you have 4" duct, you can go with a higher setting. You have a lot of variables with CFM, duct size, fan power, and length of duct run. As long as the fan is pushing out moisture, that's what is important. That's why I always install a humidifier switch on all of my fans.
Excellent video, but no way is it going to be this easy for me. Here is the run down : As soon as I open the drywall (1) insulation will fall in my face (2) I won't have 3 feet of extra wire and exhaust pipe to use , more like 1 inch (3) the new fan will not fit. (4) gapping hole in ceiling , no fan and still have to go into attic. The power of positive thinking is on my side! Oh and my attic access is 18 inch x 18 inch and I am borderline obese.
lighting is bad. The electric and exhaust unit was not fastened in. Is that correct ? You cannot see the connection of the electrical and exhaust unit to the main fan. You need close ups of this.
Electric and exhaust are fastened by a machine screw and the screws that hold the box into the frame that goes into the ceiling. Electrical connection is talked about in the video. If you had the fan in your hands you would see the details you want are very straightforward and not really needed in the video. There’s a balance on making videos that can be too long. Good luck with the fan!
@@TodayIWorkOn the purpose of video is to show exactly how to do something. Talking about electrical connections is useless, show them. Talk less, show more and light the subject area, especially the dark areas.
@@JessicaT-qp9uv not at all, totally different design. Pay attention,. they are tested made in Germany, not your back stab Leviton consumer junk. Wago is superior in all aspects to wire connections, they keep developing new versions for specific uses. Back Stab outlets connections in the U.S. have nowhere near the surface area making contact with the conductor. And it's not the same metallurgy, and the entire compression function is not like a back stab junk Leviton. Wago for the win
You can, but the air will backdraft from too small of a circumference. It will also be louder from the resistance because it's only 3". If you go online you can find data on CFM and what sizing you need to push air though.
Wear GOGGLES….LITTLE DEBRIS fell OUT into EYE. I tryed to irrigate it . But eventually CAUSING ME TO go to E\R ROOM by Uber…….WAS A LITTLE PIECE OF METAL AND WOOD……. AND BLOWN IN INSULATION., LEARN FROM OTHERS MISTAKES. Hurt like helll…….…………
Why do these videos never talk about safety. everyone should be wearing gloves and a mask because installation can mess you up. You dont wanna breathe that stuff in,… so please ppl get gloves and a mask before you follow his video
A flexible duct! When I saw you pull that out of the ceiling I was stunned. I never even thought to use flexible ducting. I was dreading replacing our old 3" ducted fan and I didn't get the easier EZ Retrofit Whisper model so needed to do a bit of fussing with our ducts. I had the 4"-3" galvanized reducer but also needed a small extender. I saw your video and it was like an epiphany. Headed over to get a piece of flexi and voila - so much easier. Thanks for great visual advice and a great video.
Rat nest/poop. This is the best video I have found to retrofit with a Panasonic whisper. Thank you, sir! But let me tell you all something. As a first time homeowner, I had no idea animals can find their way to your bathroom fan. When I took the duct right off the old fan, I got a suprise light shower of rat crap. I saw it was piled into the funnel, clogging any air from getting out.
Stay safe y’all.
DO NOT RELY on the switch to power off. It is sometimes possible that the switch was wired up backwards making the neutral the switchable leg meaning that the hot is always on to the vent assembly. In this case, regardless if the switch is in the off position, you will get zapped TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE PANEL!
That’s great advice. You can never be too safe.
I think this is the best install video for a retrofit. I've seen a few that were plain wrong. The installation instructions also aren't great. I also reeeeeeally like the tip you give where since this fan is larger than your typical contractor grade unit you can actually cut the ceiling first and gain access to the nails/screws to remove the old unit.
Unfortunately I had some condensation issues in my previous pipe and as a result some water had leaked and gotten on the ceiling so I had some drywall repair to do. Still it helped watching this.
Thanks for the video. I hate the idea of going up into our dusty old attic. This is the 4th or 5th video about installing the Panasonic Whisper Retrofit that I have seen. It is the only one that gives me enough confidence to go to Home Depot and buy the fan with any hope of installing it.
I'm actually doing an updated video on the actual Home Depot fan in a couple of weeks. They did change a few things.
@@TodayIWorkOn Thanks for letting me know. I will wait for the updated video before I get the fan.
This was the best install video for this Panasonic fan that I could find. Thank you!!
Thank you. I'm an idiot and just couldn't understand how the fan would attach to the ceiling or bracket. There are no screw holes to mount the fan to the bracket. I watched like 5 other videos and yours was the only that mentioned the self tapping screws just drill into the bracket anywhere......duh!
Thank you sir, you are a genius..... Your video explained all and helped me avoid a big mess.
Thanks for this, it was very timely. However there were a few things that were not clear to me. First, it would be good if you could put some better light on the project. Shooting video with 2 ceiling lights in back of you guarantees the camera will darken the image. Second, you don't explain what you mean by "split the difference" at 1:31. What exactly are the two things you are splitting? Is the size of the template based on the instructions? Finally, is it magic that the fan runs? You do not show how the electric is connected to the fan, but at 13:44 you shove the assembly into the opening; later when you put the bracket are the screws also connecting that assembly to the bracket?
Again, thanks. I am about to give this a try, although I have a lot of trepidation.
Correct on splitting the difference with the template. The new fan is bigger than the old one.
Electric is very easy on the fan. Black to black, white to white, and ground to ground. Very straightforward on the wiring.
Agree on lighting. Good luck with the project, you got this!
The NM outer sheathing should go past the connector, into the box
Very helpful, thank you. I'm repolacing an old fan and will try installing from below (I was NOT looking forward to laying in fiberglass).
I have a better newer video coming out in a week! It goes over the Home Depot Panasonic fan which is a little different than this particular one.
Panasonic retrofit versions, are a must for changing out the useless old grinding Broan Nuton junks. the bracket mounitng of the superbly designed Panasonic, is great, the solid painted fan assy won't corrode . They are designed to install from below with the folding bracket assy, the fan body screws into the bracket anywhere along the rails. Brilliant design, easy to attach rail to the existing rafter, line up and snap the exhaust duct to the pre mounted piece, fan assy snap in place secure with screws. Don't forget the ground screw to tie them together as for UL listing, make sure fan speed is set, and exhaust ducting is secured to adaptor, with wire tie or good metal tape..best fans available. several models, get teh retrofit ones, not teh ones for new build, diffrent system of mounting, retrofit versions are brilliant to replace exiting junk Broans, from below
Had you going through my whole install. Never alone, thank you.
Thank you! You’re a life saver! Best install video ever for exhaust fans!
Another comment mentioned this, but towards the end I’m not seeing what those screws are going into other than just drywall which doesn’t work. It is where you say how incredibly tight those screws get.
They go directly into the metal frame I installed above the drywall. I have a new video coming out that will visualize all of this really soon.
Great video! Dig your style. "That's what SHE said." LOL
Great video, thanks I have sub'd. My 8 year old Panasonic fan quit working, I have cleaned it, it appears to be electrical, I replaced the single switch, still no power at the unit. Yes I will turn off the electrical, yes I have a tester.
Thank you for the excellent video👍
just ordered a Panasonic fan to install in my daughter's house. She has the cement grinder old junk, useless, got the Panasonic retrofit version for this same reason, RETROFIT.
Changed out the 3 old Broan cement grinders with 3 new Panasonic. Retrofit models. 2 no light, one with the LED light. SILENCE and lots of air draw. Taking out the old ones mounted with NM cable clamps! Talk about cheesey. But good to remove. Slide up the Panasonic bracket, fantastic. The plastic slip on reducer to fit existing duct. Ours where the 3 speed, set all to high speed, SILENT, they are inverter driven, ramp up to speed. But I use WAGO, WAGO is easier and quicker. Wire nuts are so 20th century. Clever design with Panasonic, they make it little bigger so when you pull out the old junk, you have room to work, and the Panasonic covers it all. Best vent fans out there, clever designs for retrofit, how the electrical box and duct section comes off to make work easy
My duct/wiring assembly seems to hit the bracket. Does it matter how thick the ceiling + bracket is (@ 14:00 in the video) I'm 90% of the way there and a bit frustrated I can't get this last part in.
You’re probably not lined up with the little tabs the box slides into. They might be bent or crushed. Take a look at that.
Best video I've seen on this fan. But, does the fan have to orient a specific way to the joists? Unfortunately, I think it does. I had to rotate the fan 90 degrees from the way the last fan was hooked up so the ducting and electrical would both reach the unit. I tried to install the unit with the face of the duct/electrical hookup parallel to joists- and when I tried to connect the fan to the utility hookup (the piece connected to the ducting and electrical) the fan was blocked by the bracket. There is nothing in the directions that specify which way the fan needs to sit in the ceiling and I don't think it was mentioned here or in any other videos I've seen- if you do another retro fit video for this fan, maybe add that nugget. Thanks again for a good video.
You can add 2x4 blocking and "turn" the bracket around if need be. If you attach the bracket to the existing joists the retrofit will have to go to the left or right of the existing joist, which usually is a standard install practice on the existing fan. What you have going on is unique. 2x4 bracing to flip the bracket around is your best bet and that's what I would do in your situation. Thanks for the kind words. I did recently did an updated exhaust fan video, but never thought to mention what your problem is. In 2 years I'll be sure to include it in another video,
th-cam.com/video/G0BEpSTi-1k/w-d-xo.html
What size grommet do you use for the cut outs in the junction box?😅
Standard 3/8 size. You can do plastic or an nm-b connection
I missed how the large fan unit connected to the exhaust duct and the power. I saw how you hooked the duct and power to the 'side section' and then stuffed the side section up there.. seems like it was just stuffed up there and not connected to anything. Then you pushed the large fan section up in the hole but didn't show any step to connect it to the side section.
I have a new exhaust fan video dropping in 2 weeks that explains the most asked questions, like this one, people have had on the install. I have cameras in the attic, lol.
Great video, this really helped me visualize the install process.
So 110 CFM will not work with 3 in duct? What happens if you try to switch it to 110?
I have a ~100sqft bathroom and I'm replacing my 50 CFM with this. I have 3in duct as well. I was hoping to use 110 but 80 should be OK I suppose.
The 3” duct can only do around 80 cfm in a perfect situation since it’s a small diameter hose. Back pressure will build up most likely at the 110 cfm setting. 4” has a lot more air able to be pushed through.
Very useful video. Thanks alot and all the best buddy
Nice video. Thank you
You didn't show how the power box attached to the fan box? Did you have to screw it down? How did you managed to align them? Thx
7:06-7:10 if you pause around there you see there’s a Phillips head screw shown on the box. You just remove that screw and the cover pops off. After that, you install a romex connector and some wire on the cover then it’s black to black, white to white, ground to ground. It’s covered in the video, but I didn’t spend much time on the actual cover since when you get the fan, it’s pretty in your face. Good luck with the install!
Do you think the panasonic whisper series are better than the broan nutone roomside series?
I've never installed installed it...
How did you decided on which CFM and Humidity sensor amount to set the fam to?
That's a good question. There's a calculation you can do(google search), BUT, you are limited to what type of ducting is existing. If it's only 3" duct, you are limited to the lower setting on the fan. If you have 4" duct, you can go with a higher setting. You have a lot of variables with CFM, duct size, fan power, and length of duct run. As long as the fan is pushing out moisture, that's what is important. That's why I always install a humidifier switch on all of my fans.
Why can't you use 110cfm on that 3 inch pipe? What's the reasoning for doing 80 only.
Back pressure. Too much air being forced into a small radius pipe. Your exhaust will suffer.
Very useful. Thank you
Excellent video, but no way is it going to be this easy for me. Here is the run down : As soon as I open the drywall (1) insulation will fall in my face (2) I won't have 3 feet of extra wire and exhaust pipe to use , more like 1 inch (3) the new fan will not fit. (4) gapping hole in ceiling , no fan and still have to go into attic. The power of positive thinking is on my side! Oh and my attic access is 18 inch x 18 inch and I am borderline obese.
I just saw you have a video with a complicated case! Awesome!!
those plastic grip NM clamps in plastic ain't old school, they are much easier to use and faster than metal screw ones
lighting is bad. The electric and exhaust unit was not fastened in. Is that correct
? You cannot see the connection of the electrical and exhaust unit to the main fan. You need close ups of this.
Electric and exhaust are fastened by a machine screw and the screws that hold the box into the frame that goes into the ceiling. Electrical connection is talked about in the video.
If you had the fan in your hands you would see the details you want are very straightforward and not really needed in the video. There’s a balance on making videos that can be too long. Good luck with the fan!
@@TodayIWorkOn the purpose of video is to show exactly how to do something. Talking about electrical connections is useless, show them. Talk less, show more and light the subject area, especially the dark areas.
Use WAGO connectors, wire nuts are obsolete
All great valid additions on electrical connection etiquette! Great comments.
Wago's are like backstabbing an outlet. Keep em'.
@@JessicaT-qp9uv not at all, totally different design. Pay attention,. they are tested made in Germany, not your back stab Leviton consumer junk. Wago is superior in all aspects to wire connections, they keep developing new versions for specific uses. Back Stab outlets connections in the U.S. have nowhere near the surface area making contact with the conductor. And it's not the same metallurgy, and the entire compression function is not like a back stab junk Leviton. Wago for the win
@@cengeb well....based on that sales job, I'll take a closer look at them. Thanks (-:
Why can't you use 110 cfm on 3 inch hose?
You can, but the air will backdraft from too small of a circumference. It will also be louder from the resistance because it's only 3". If you go online you can find data on CFM and what sizing you need to push air though.
the old original ones always sound like cement mixers..and do nothing,
Where you connect the green
To the ground wire.
Thank you
Drywall saw causes lots of dust and debris. So another reason to wear eye protection,….
I think this guy has been electrocuted…I mean zapped a few times 😒
Wear GOGGLES….LITTLE DEBRIS fell OUT into EYE. I tryed to irrigate it . But eventually CAUSING ME TO go to E\R ROOM by Uber…….WAS A LITTLE PIECE OF METAL AND WOOD……. AND BLOWN IN INSULATION., LEARN FROM OTHERS MISTAKES. Hurt like helll…….…………
I wear glasses now.... LOL. I totally agree on your advice.
why is this recommended to me?
No idea. Ask Google 😁
Why do these videos never talk about safety. everyone should be wearing gloves and a mask because installation can mess you up. You dont wanna breathe that stuff in,… so please ppl get gloves and a mask before you follow his video
Ok Karen
@@ryanbrand3946 So being safe makes someone a Karen???LOL, Do you even know what a Karen is...obviously not. Silly
Nice video thank you
Drywall saw causes lots of dust and debris. So another reason to wear eye protection,….