Prismatic cell question from very new solar person: I have already assembled a 280 Ah prismatic battery from 4 cells but not charged it yet. I have seen and read where prismatic cells will swell once charged. The busbars I connected were snug/tight. Can I remove the busbars to drill them wider so when they do expand, they will have some give/slack?
So with these cells you don’t have to wire all of them together to balance the cells before assembly and charge?? Just assemble straight from the box and charge. Also, will any 10 amp power supply work to charge it? The one from your link is discontinued.
You typically want to top balance every lithium battery you put together. LiFePO4 probably has the most unique voltage range among all the lithium chemistries due to the unusually flat charge/discharge curve covering 10%-90% where most of that (60% of the entire battery) is along the lines of 3.2X per cell. So the most important thing you have to keep in mind with LFP is that if you are doing a top balance you should be top balancing ABOVE 3.45V. Below that and you are no longer playing the AMP HOUR game which is what you are trying to balance. You are playing the VOLTAGE game and voltage means nothing to LiFePO4 relative to State of Charge for the vast majority of its capacity. Above 3.45 the curve is steep enough that a voltage (given in 10's of mV's) can give you a pretty accurate SOC number. Below 3.40V it starts to get very muddy very quick and by the time you hit 3.33V you have entered the almost entirely flat part of the curve. If your cells have varying capacities (for 100Ah cells you would ideally like to keep all the cells within 1Ah of each other) then charging 4 cells with a current of 50A means after 1 hour you should have 50Ah in each cell (relative to your battery/charger voltage)...but all 4 could be at different voltages because in that area of the curve it is so flat. 3.221, 3.200, 3.218, 3.2153. Those kind of voltages imply fairly balanced cells...not perfect but with a 21mV difference its right on the edge of where I would want my balancer to turn on (25 seconds). Its when you begin seeing deviations of 50mV at those nominal voltages and >100mV near the top of the SOC that you should definitely top balance a pack. Many people have started using Active Balance Boards to skip this step due to most people only having 10A or 20A current limited power supplies so doing this to 100Ah, 200Ah, 230Ah, 280Ah, 304Ah, etc cells in parallel can take a week if they ship at 30% state of charge. The active balance boards are typically rated 5A to 10A. The max balance current can ONLY be obtained when there is at least a 1V difference between cells. As the detla decreases the current will but it is still a VERY affective tool...just shy of being able to stop "runner" cells from getting out of control because above 3.55V they start climbing in voltage rapidly and that increased delta at a high speed just increases the balance current to fight the charge current. Obviously I would recommend slowing down your charger substantially towards the end and you can (with a little supervision) do a top balance on a 4S, 8S, or 16S pack by having charge current match your average balance current give or take. This prevents runners from breaking out and driving up through 3.60 incredibly fast to 3.70 in seconds without a BMS. You just need to make sure the power supply you are using allows the voltage and current to be adjusted for CC CV charging. A 30V 10A bench power supply is the standard fare but you can buy 3-15V 0-50A (and 0-60A, 0-80A, 0-100A) converted server power supplies on Aliexpress for $50 to $100. The PSU's are modified to have the max voltage brought up to nearly 15V and then some kind of voltage and current regulator circuit is added. The 50A is based on an Emerson PSU and is fairly noisy at any charge rate but I have not tried to the other models that are all mostly based on HP DPS units of varying power levels. The price to power value for them is insanely high. You will not find ANY other off the shelf option that even comes close to them. The volt and amp meters they use arent the most accurate in the world but they do ok...just test them with a DMM and clampmeter the first few times you use them across the entire voltage and current range. Most of them are limited to 3V on the bottom end and 2A or 3A on the bottom end of the current....I've seen listings on Ali say different things. I had no problem charging single LiFePO4 cells at 3.60V with the 50A Emerson model up to 40A (never use them at 100% of their rating for extended periods. Derate PSU's to 80% and they will last forever instead of blowing up every few years depending on your luck)
So i have this exact same balancer and harness ex ept my yellow and white wire are swapped from your any insight on that before i hook it uo and blow the balancer
@@alanclark9000 Lishen 26Ah LTO appear to be the best power cells on the market. The Plananos look to also be not too far behind. The Headways (8Ah cells ONLY, the others are not quite as powerful power cells) you can buy used from BatteryHookup quite cheap so they offer a great bang for the buck but they are 15C constant and 20C/25C burst/pulse cells.....SPIM08HP are 3.7V lithium ion that are about on the same level as Headways and are also 8Ah. I haven't seen any good data on the Toshiba SCiBs but websites like Sriko rate them stupid high....almost too high to be believable.... Lishen makes great cells and I've heard good things about their 8.5Ah cells The old school A123 20Ah cells (if you can find genuines) are a REAL 20C constant cell. They will hold just about 3.00V each at 400A. LEV60F cells from BH are $30 each and at 74Ah can burst 600A no problem so long as you match cells decently. The 4 I have ordered all have fairly low, matching IR. And very close serial numbers. So currently I think the LEV60F cells are the way to go because they are so cheap. They do require compression unlike the cylindrical Yin Longs which are only 10C and come in a variety of capacities and are often sleeved to say 40Ah but will be 30Ah or 35Ah. So if you can work with the size and compression needed for the LEV60F cells they are 3C constant and 8C+ burst. Jehu Garcia sells them for a bit more and he tested them extensively. He was able to hold a 600A discharge on a 4S pack for several minutes....so one could say they are 8C continuous because they held just shy of 3.00Vpc but that seems to be pushing them pretty hard.
How many amps is this good for and wattage averages. Oh yeah lol..and price for this set up..im still watching so if you say in the video kill me later..thank you
I don't want to seem I'm correcting you on those balancers I think there's numbers on board where plug goes 1st is neg &4 on positive . Been some time since I've used those balancers I could be wrong
Prismatic cell question from very new solar person: I have already assembled a 280 Ah prismatic battery from 4 cells but not charged it yet.
I have seen and read where prismatic cells will swell once charged.
The busbars I connected were snug/tight.
Can I remove the busbars to drill them wider so when they do expand, they will have some give/slack?
So are these Lucian banks any better or worse than the other LTO banks?.
Can you use agm and lithium using a battery isolator?
How can I get one of those kit
Ur awesome man
How can I get a bank like that
I may have missed but where could I find this provided kit?
email me at milosboxs@outlook.com and I will send you a PayPal invoice to place an order
How many ah is the bank and how many watts can it handle and how much is this kit
So with these cells you don’t have to wire all of them together to balance the cells before assembly and charge?? Just assemble straight from the box and charge. Also, will any 10 amp power supply work to charge it? The one from your link is discontinued.
When you go see the product description at BMS it says to top balance prior.
@@Angel_xXx_76 it doesn’t mention anything about top balancing. It’s a generic description then the specs.
You typically want to top balance every lithium battery you put together.
LiFePO4 probably has the most unique voltage range among all the lithium chemistries due to the unusually flat charge/discharge curve covering 10%-90% where most of that (60% of the entire battery) is along the lines of 3.2X per cell.
So the most important thing you have to keep in mind with LFP is that if you are doing a top balance you should be top balancing ABOVE 3.45V. Below that and you are no longer playing the AMP HOUR game which is what you are trying to balance. You are playing the VOLTAGE game and voltage means nothing to LiFePO4 relative to State of Charge for the vast majority of its capacity.
Above 3.45 the curve is steep enough that a voltage (given in 10's of mV's) can give you a pretty accurate SOC number. Below 3.40V it starts to get very muddy very quick and by the time you hit 3.33V you have entered the almost entirely flat part of the curve.
If your cells have varying capacities (for 100Ah cells you would ideally like to keep all the cells within 1Ah of each other) then charging 4 cells with a current of 50A means after 1 hour you should have 50Ah in each cell (relative to your battery/charger voltage)...but all 4 could be at different voltages because in that area of the curve it is so flat. 3.221, 3.200, 3.218, 3.2153. Those kind of voltages imply fairly balanced cells...not perfect but with a 21mV difference its right on the edge of where I would want my balancer to turn on (25 seconds). Its when you begin seeing deviations of 50mV at those nominal voltages and >100mV near the top of the SOC that you should definitely top balance a pack.
Many people have started using Active Balance Boards to skip this step due to most people only having 10A or 20A current limited power supplies so doing this to 100Ah, 200Ah, 230Ah, 280Ah, 304Ah, etc cells in parallel can take a week if they ship at 30% state of charge. The active balance boards are typically rated 5A to 10A. The max balance current can ONLY be obtained when there is at least a 1V difference between cells. As the detla decreases the current will but it is still a VERY affective tool...just shy of being able to stop "runner" cells from getting out of control because above 3.55V they start climbing in voltage rapidly and that increased delta at a high speed just increases the balance current to fight the charge current. Obviously I would recommend slowing down your charger substantially towards the end and you can (with a little supervision) do a top balance on a 4S, 8S, or 16S pack by having charge current match your average balance current give or take. This prevents runners from breaking out and driving up through 3.60 incredibly fast to 3.70 in seconds without a BMS.
You just need to make sure the power supply you are using allows the voltage and current to be adjusted for CC CV charging. A 30V 10A bench power supply is the standard fare but you can buy 3-15V 0-50A (and 0-60A, 0-80A, 0-100A) converted server power supplies on Aliexpress for $50 to $100. The PSU's are modified to have the max voltage brought up to nearly 15V and then some kind of voltage and current regulator circuit is added. The 50A is based on an Emerson PSU and is fairly noisy at any charge rate but I have not tried to the other models that are all mostly based on HP DPS units of varying power levels. The price to power value for them is insanely high. You will not find ANY other off the shelf option that even comes close to them. The volt and amp meters they use arent the most accurate in the world but they do ok...just test them with a DMM and clampmeter the first few times you use them across the entire voltage and current range. Most of them are limited to 3V on the bottom end and 2A or 3A on the bottom end of the current....I've seen listings on Ali say different things. I had no problem charging single LiFePO4 cells at 3.60V with the 50A Emerson model up to 40A (never use them at 100% of their rating for extended periods. Derate PSU's to 80% and they will last forever instead of blowing up every few years depending on your luck)
So i have this exact same balancer and harness ex ept my yellow and white wire are swapped from your any insight on that before i hook it uo and blow the balancer
Just kidding not same kit it's a bms balancer but the kit is from sriko
yeah please follow your manufacturers wiring diagram,... and/or simply email the company you purchased your parts from....
@@Miloittybittyboomso what are the best cells? Too many on the market
@@alanclark9000 no such thing as (best cells). just best for your exact system and your EXACT charging voltage....
@@alanclark9000 Lishen 26Ah LTO appear to be the best power cells on the market. The Plananos look to also be not too far behind. The Headways (8Ah cells ONLY, the others are not quite as powerful power cells) you can buy used from BatteryHookup quite cheap so they offer a great bang for the buck but they are 15C constant and 20C/25C burst/pulse cells.....SPIM08HP are 3.7V lithium ion that are about on the same level as Headways and are also 8Ah.
I haven't seen any good data on the Toshiba SCiBs but websites like Sriko rate them stupid high....almost too high to be believable....
Lishen makes great cells and I've heard good things about their 8.5Ah cells
The old school A123 20Ah cells (if you can find genuines) are a REAL 20C constant cell. They will hold just about 3.00V each at 400A.
LEV60F cells from BH are $30 each and at 74Ah can burst 600A no problem so long as you match cells decently. The 4 I have ordered all have fairly low, matching IR. And very close serial numbers.
So currently I think the LEV60F cells are the way to go because they are so cheap. They do require compression unlike the cylindrical Yin Longs which are only 10C and come in a variety of capacities and are often sleeved to say 40Ah but will be 30Ah or 35Ah. So if you can work with the size and compression needed for the LEV60F cells they are 3C constant and 8C+ burst. Jehu Garcia sells them for a bit more and he tested them extensively. He was able to hold a 600A discharge on a 4S pack for several minutes....so one could say they are 8C continuous because they held just shy of 3.00Vpc but that seems to be pushing them pretty hard.
How much is this kit?
$745 plush shipping if I’m not mistaken.
Can this handle 15.3 volts from my alternator
no
How many amps is this good for and wattage averages. Oh yeah lol..and price for this set up..im still watching so if you say in the video kill me later..thank you
posted in my Facebook page called Build Your Own Lithium Bank
12 cells make up how many ah bank?
I don't want to seem I'm correcting you on those balancers I think there's numbers on board where plug goes 1st is neg &4 on positive . Been some time since I've used those balancers I could be wrong
Very informative and thank you for the setup you built me a while back, it's still working great! 😎👍👍