Thanks very much for sharing this! I live on limestone, so every landscaping consideration starts with breaking rock (or asphalt). I've done some work with SDS+ which is very slow, and borrowed a 1400-1600w Makita jackhammer which greatly improved my speed. I think this might be what I'm looking for.
Glad it helped! I've also tried the bigger version (2200w jackhammer). Those are good for going straight down, but too heavy and unwieldly for any detail work. The 1400W model is perfect for handheld use.
@@saveitforparts This is going to make it a bit difficult to take apart, but you could use gasket glue around the edges where the parts conjoin like with a gasket on an engine. It just goes on like glue and then when you press the parts together it creates a seal. As for the rest of the small cracks on it, you could try silicone for the parts that don't require airflow, and for the parts that do you could add more of that screen you use on the bottom air intake of the hammer.
Have you guys ever tried putting a tube on the air intake for these drills? I think that if you were able to get the air coming in to be even just a few feet further from all the dust, it could significantly extend their lifespans
We haven't tried that, it seems like short duty cycles and rotating between several tools helps with longevity. I think part of my current issue might just be sand stuck in the hammer mechanism, I need to do some more investigating.
You can liberate a couple of newtons by cleaning up the armature where it makes contact with the brushes using a little sandpaper. Just make sure not to abrade the windings insulation, and to clean up metal dust between the contact plates with an old toothbrush. Douse it all with electronics cleaner, and let it dry thoroughly.
I'm surprised they last that long with all the really fine sand. Don't they call that regolith on the moon? lol. You'll be 3D printing new case gaskets by importing a photograph in no time.
Isn't the piston pushing and pulling air not actually hitting the upper piston. So performance bight be regained by new rings/o-rings and seals on both pistons?
Neat timing, I literally two days back messaged someone about their demo hammer since I picked up a $25 project one that ultimately was found out to be missing the connecting rod. So, wondering what the specs are for a Bosch 0611 302 connecting rod so I can fabricate, since doesn't look like I'll be finding the parts for anywhere. Would be great if can find the part, though doesn't look so promising. Thinking in time, I'll guestimate what the length is and see what I can come up with to make. Though would be super awesome to find the part that's cost effective or at least someone who owns and can provide at least that center on center rod each end hole length. I think I can figure out the rest of the dimensions.
Wondering if you can take some furnace screen or something and use as a filter/screen? Not sure if would be overly restrictive and hamper cooling? Maybe can add a small fan? Just noticed you might be taping over some of the air flow sections maybe... so seems like might improve performance if you put furnace filter materials that's a high enough MERV number over those spots and hold in place with the tape so filtering and still getting air flow.
For pin footing pipe or maybe fence post driving... maybe you can hack on a small engine and fabricate a custom set of tips? That's what sucked me into the vortex of these tools. Started with a Thor-Nado Electric Hammer.
@@jafinch78 I think I have an ancient Thor-Nado! Took me days to drill through my wall with it, house was built in the 50s by someone convinced the bombs were coming!
@@saveitforparts Alright! Mine is only an electric hammer and I still haven't use that or the other batch of those tools I binged on... a Hilti hammer-drill and another red one that the name isn't coming to mind though is another made in the U.S. brand like the Thor-Nado. Now, the Bosch I found out is oddly named a "un-demolition hammer" and the connecting rod is discontinued. Hopefully their engineering department or somewhere has the dimension drawings so I can get the size to fabricate so less trial and error. Such a waste trashing if only the connecting rod needs replaced.
In my experience its in the head 4:00 that pistons/seals wear causing a gradual loss in impact transmission first, not the motor.
Thanks very much for sharing this!
I live on limestone, so every landscaping consideration starts with breaking rock (or asphalt). I've done some work with SDS+ which is very slow, and borrowed a 1400-1600w Makita jackhammer which greatly improved my speed. I think this might be what I'm looking for.
Glad it helped! I've also tried the bigger version (2200w jackhammer). Those are good for going straight down, but too heavy and unwieldly for any detail work. The 1400W model is perfect for handheld use.
@@saveitforparts This is going to make it a bit difficult to take apart, but you could use gasket glue around the edges where the parts conjoin like with a gasket on an engine. It just goes on like glue and then when you press the parts together it creates a seal. As for the rest of the small cracks on it, you could try silicone for the parts that don't require airflow, and for the parts that do you could add more of that screen you use on the bottom air intake of the hammer.
Have you guys ever tried putting a tube on the air intake for these drills? I think that if you were able to get the air coming in to be even just a few feet further from all the dust, it could significantly extend their lifespans
We haven't tried that, it seems like short duty cycles and rotating between several tools helps with longevity. I think part of my current issue might just be sand stuck in the hammer mechanism, I need to do some more investigating.
You can liberate a couple of newtons by cleaning up the armature where it makes contact with the brushes using a little sandpaper. Just make sure not to abrade the windings insulation, and to clean up metal dust between the contact plates with an old toothbrush. Douse it all with electronics cleaner, and let it dry thoroughly.
I think that grease is molybdenum disulphide, actually looks to be in very good condition.
I'm surprised they last that long with all the really fine sand. Don't they call that regolith on the moon? lol.
You'll be 3D printing new case gaskets by importing a photograph in no time.
Isn't the piston pushing and pulling air not actually hitting the upper piston. So performance bight be regained by new rings/o-rings and seals on both pistons?
Neat timing, I literally two days back messaged someone about their demo hammer since I picked up a $25 project one that ultimately was found out to be missing the connecting rod. So, wondering what the specs are for a Bosch 0611 302 connecting rod so I can fabricate, since doesn't look like I'll be finding the parts for anywhere. Would be great if can find the part, though doesn't look so promising. Thinking in time, I'll guestimate what the length is and see what I can come up with to make. Though would be super awesome to find the part that's cost effective or at least someone who owns and can provide at least that center on center rod each end hole length. I think I can figure out the rest of the dimensions.
Wondering if you can take some furnace screen or something and use as a filter/screen? Not sure if would be overly restrictive and hamper cooling? Maybe can add a small fan? Just noticed you might be taping over some of the air flow sections maybe... so seems like might improve performance if you put furnace filter materials that's a high enough MERV number over those spots and hold in place with the tape so filtering and still getting air flow.
For pin footing pipe or maybe fence post driving... maybe you can hack on a small engine and fabricate a custom set of tips? That's what sucked me into the vortex of these tools. Started with a Thor-Nado Electric Hammer.
@@jafinch78 I think I have an ancient Thor-Nado! Took me days to drill through my wall with it, house was built in the 50s by someone convinced the bombs were coming!
@@saveitforparts Alright! Mine is only an electric hammer and I still haven't use that or the other batch of those tools I binged on... a Hilti hammer-drill and another red one that the name isn't coming to mind though is another made in the U.S. brand like the Thor-Nado. Now, the Bosch I found out is oddly named a "un-demolition hammer" and the connecting rod is discontinued. Hopefully their engineering department or somewhere has the dimension drawings so I can get the size to fabricate so less trial and error. Such a waste trashing if only the connecting rod needs replaced.
5/8 hex shank , I just bought 1 off Amazon and am having a tough time to find a ground rod driver 5/8 in rod
I think this uses a knock-off of Makita chisels, they're 17mm hex. I found some on eBay a while back.
Nice Ax Man sticker! Talk about a place to find some saveworthy parts....
I love Ax-man, never know what I'm going to find there, and even if I don't know what it is I'll still buy it!
from the automotive end, would a scaler/needler help with corners and detail?
No idea, I've never messed with those. I'll have to look into it!
Consider wrapping the tool in a vacuum cleaner dust bag... just poke the tool right through the bag and bungee it in place...
mad respect for the battle hardened right index was that a jam or a hammer hahaha
That may have been a manhole lid, but I can't 100% remember!
Can I used this on a cement truck???
The Mythbusters said C4 is better 😂
I just ordererd one from AMAZON for $85.00
Hey,
I have one of those things I never use. If you want it, come by and pick it up.😜😜
Seems like a bit of a drive 😂
WTF? Radio Active warning sign and the dude is wearing shorts.
Safety third!
@@saveitforparts LOL!!!
Well done. It's a great video! I have sent you an email. Could you check it? I promise not to take up too much of your personal time.
I don't think I've seen it, unless it went to spam.