Just ordered the torque boxes for my TJ. Body mounts are caved in and knocking when I hit corners. Your videos are helping me alot with seeing what I have to do. Thanks!
I gotta do the same both I’ll be ordering the torque runners and floor boards soon and probably patches. And yes I found out my seats did that years ago. I’ll be starting mine soon but weather keeps me away from doing it. My other vehicle is in garage due to a flat til I get it pumped up to pull the Jeep in.
Turn your heat down a little and make sure everything is wire brushed and cleaned with acetone before you try and lay down some bead..those gussets are atrocious my guy
I think it's time to start putting a few dollars back when ever you can for a tub replacement in the future. Or maybe finding another less rusty TJ altogether.
Nope, after this one I’m done with TJs. I’ll fix this one up and send it till it falls apart again and then scrap it. I was about to scrap this one already but had the chance to fix it up a bit to send it a couple more years. I bought this jeep to be hard on and that’s what I’m gonna do
And here all these years I thought it was so cold in Canada that things couldn't rust, what a shocker! LOL. A little lube on those seat brackets will do wonders, looks good should be like a new jeep when you get done and hopefully you won't be eating radiators. Looks like you're using flux core for your welding, I've used it, but I much prefer mig. After watching this I have decided to cut lengths of pipe and for my body lift and just stick with factory spacers. Also get rid of those carpets they just hold moisture and cause your floor pans to rust away. Now quit slacking and get Big Bird done and get out there and make some more videos. No excuses!
That’s how they come from factory so I would assume it for drainage. You don’t want water pooling up in there that’s what will cause them to rust out again
What would have been cool is pull the entire body off the frame. Steam clean everything,then start with the frame. Replace axles,fix body mounts,undercoat the frame then move onto the body replacing the floors. That would be cheaper than buying another trail ride.And make for great content.
The rear sides are not seam sealer.. they are spot welded between two sheets of metal. Use air hammer much easier to separate and cut wheel to cut through the welds because you will not be able to drill those out from inside. I actually did this on my TJ with the entire tub off, flipped and plenty more rust than you have.
@@SmokinMonkeyOG No problem, another tip before you drop liner on your Jeep, prep and prep, all those welded areas and sanded areas or even areas left with pin hole rust, put some Platinum pain from Eastwood. Best thing you can do for all that work to last more then a year based on your usage.
@@SmokinMonkeyOG all you need is Platinum, rust converter needs a top coat not like a liner since liner with a tiny tiny hole in it will hold moisture under it and rust. Platinum before your liner won't let water go through like it would with rust converter. Platinum does both and its not scratchable. Up to you, but just thought I'd hint it since I've done plenty of rust work and Platinum wins in my books 99% over everyone else.
Just another comment because I got to the part where you mention bed lining the whole Jeep...DO NOT DO THAT! For the love of god please no. It doesn't stop rust at all, it only HIDES it from you. What you need is fluid film or something like it. Yes it has to be reapplied and it does wash off but at least you won't have a beautiful looking body/frame that you can poke a screwdriver through after a few years. That stuff doesn't breath and moisture gets trapped underneath it. It'll look nice but in reality it's a hack job for cheesy youtube car flippers, not for people that want long lasting cars.
Sorry to disappoint you but I am 250% going to coat it. Love the look. I’ve always wanted to do it I’m gonna do it. I already coat the bottom I don’t need to worry about the bottom. I’ve been doing that for years the frame is fine after four years of salty roads, so I’m not worried about the bottom. I’m gonna keep doing what I did there and I’m gonna coat the rest of the body to save the body from scratched and destroyed on the trails. The reason the Jeep rusted so bad on the floors this time is because it kept flooding and it stayed wet for weeks at a time
@@SmokinMonkeyOG If you do, make sure to pressure wash it whenever its driven in the winter. Those textured paints hold onto road salt very very well and that's why they cause body panels to rot. Unlike the frame, those panels are a lot thinner and have less metal to "sacrifice" to oxidation before they rust through.
Hey buddy you are exactly right! If he could have seen a buddy of mine frame spring hangers and rear-ended dropping out of it he wouldn't do it. Frame had a hair holding it together when they pulled in shop. One more mile or less it would've been scattered all over road on pieces. I have never seen anything in that bad of shape and it didn't take long but my buddy said somebody told him bout it and he liked it but nobody told him not to so I hope it works out for bigbird but I reckon we will see.
@Tommy-rr7ez I’m not doing the frame. My frame is rust free and I have been coating it with a gravel guard for years. The body will get a bed liner on it. If there’s no rust when you put it on and SEAL IT then I don’t understand how any rust will start forming underneath the SEALED surface. I’m not covering up rust. So just like paint I don’t see how you will have rust form between the bed liner and the metal if the metal is rust free to begin with. The underside will also be coated but with something else that I’ve been using for years
To be honest I’m not even gonna take it out when I coat the floor. Every bolt is breaking and nothing wants to come out. It would be a whole day to remove the seats and bolts and it’s not worth the headache
![Jeep Torque Box Replacement [Project Wally Pt.5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_0q_ZL0i1b8/mqdefault.jpg)
Just ordered the torque boxes for my TJ. Body mounts are caved in and knocking when I hit corners. Your videos are helping me alot with seeing what I have to do. Thanks!
So glad you’re bringing the TJ back to life it’s created some great content
Looking Sweet! Cant wait to see her conquering the trails again!
You and me both!
Friggen rust..great to see progress on Big Bird
Ya it’s a pain but glad it getting done
How's it going Mike we going to have a good video this weekend thank you my friend
Another great video. Great mix of work and description. 👍🏻
I love my TJ's I have too yes I'm crazy but some how I think you understand 😊❤
Nice job guys!! you got me to subscribe 😊 thanks!!
Thanks!!
Great job it will be so much more stable looking good keep up the good work
Thanks! I’m actually looking forward to how rigid it will be. Should drive a lot better
@@SmokinMonkeyOG yes it will drive better and ride lot's better to doing great love the channel
@rileyscott9498 Thanks!
I gotta do the same both I’ll be ordering the torque runners and floor boards soon and probably patches. And yes I found out my seats did that years ago. I’ll be starting mine soon but weather keeps me away from doing it. My other vehicle is in garage due to a flat til I get it pumped up to pull the Jeep in.
Wow you guys are not playing around doing a fantastic job big bird will be back on trails soon
Thanks man!
Turn your heat down a little and make sure everything is wire brushed and cleaned with acetone before you try and lay down some bead..those gussets are atrocious my guy
you are inspiring me to do more work on my XJ it's rusty AF
Haha it’s a bitch but the sooner you get at it the better
Progress! Getting it done...
Jeeps are full of surprises I’m fixing mine now
Engine blew in my 2000 Jeep xj 😅
Ya I hydrolocked one this summer lol
@@SmokinMonkeyOG I seen that 🙃
Fun fun fun
Just glad my dad has a garage with tools, so should be up and running in a week .
I’m jealous lol
I think it's time to start putting a few dollars back when ever you can for a tub replacement in the future. Or maybe finding another less rusty TJ altogether.
Nope, after this one I’m done with TJs. I’ll fix this one up and send it till it falls apart again and then scrap it. I was about to scrap this one already but had the chance to fix it up a bit to send it a couple more years. I bought this jeep to be hard on and that’s what I’m gonna do
Already have a 2022 I don’t need to keep dumping good money into this pile of scrap
And here all these years I thought it was so cold in Canada that things couldn't rust, what a shocker! LOL. A little lube on those seat brackets will do wonders, looks good should be like a new jeep when you get done and hopefully you won't be eating radiators. Looks like you're using flux core for your welding, I've used it, but I much prefer mig. After watching this I have decided to cut lengths of pipe and for my body lift and just stick with factory spacers. Also get rid of those carpets they just hold moisture and cause your floor pans to rust away. Now quit slacking and get Big Bird done and get out there and make some more videos. No excuses!
this seat-flipping thing works on my '97 only on the passenger side
Mine worked on both sides but it’s super stiff I gotta clean it up and lube it
I do have a question why can't you plug the holes in The Tork box
That’s how they come from factory so I would assume it for drainage. You don’t want water pooling up in there that’s what will cause them to rust out again
💪🏼😎👍🏼
What would have been cool is pull the entire body off the frame. Steam clean everything,then start with the frame. Replace axles,fix body mounts,undercoat the frame then move onto the body replacing the floors. That would be cheaper than buying another trail ride.And make for great content.
Lmao I wouldn’t have the space or money for that but it would be nice
The rear sides are not seam sealer.. they are spot welded between two sheets of metal. Use air hammer much easier to separate and cut wheel to cut through the welds because you will not be able to drill those out from inside. I actually did this on my TJ with the entire tub off, flipped and plenty more rust than you have.
Good tips. Thanks!
@@SmokinMonkeyOG No problem, another tip before you drop liner on your Jeep, prep and prep, all those welded areas and sanded areas or even areas left with pin hole rust, put some Platinum pain from Eastwood. Best thing you can do for all that work to last more then a year based on your usage.
@Driven716 ya I’ll be using a rust converter and seam sealer to help with that as well
@@SmokinMonkeyOG all you need is Platinum, rust converter needs a top coat not like a liner since liner with a tiny tiny hole in it will hold moisture under it and rust. Platinum before your liner won't let water go through like it would with rust converter. Platinum does both and its not scratchable. Up to you, but just thought I'd hint it since I've done plenty of rust work and Platinum wins in my books 99% over everyone else.
@Driven716 okay sweet I’ll look into getting myself some
Just another comment because I got to the part where you mention bed lining the whole Jeep...DO NOT DO THAT! For the love of god please no. It doesn't stop rust at all, it only HIDES it from you. What you need is fluid film or something like it. Yes it has to be reapplied and it does wash off but at least you won't have a beautiful looking body/frame that you can poke a screwdriver through after a few years. That stuff doesn't breath and moisture gets trapped underneath it. It'll look nice but in reality it's a hack job for cheesy youtube car flippers, not for people that want long lasting cars.
Sorry to disappoint you but I am 250% going to coat it. Love the look. I’ve always wanted to do it I’m gonna do it. I already coat the bottom I don’t need to worry about the bottom. I’ve been doing that for years the frame is fine after four years of salty roads, so I’m not worried about the bottom. I’m gonna keep doing what I did there and I’m gonna coat the rest of the body to save the body from scratched and destroyed on the trails.
The reason the Jeep rusted so bad on the floors this time is because it kept flooding and it stayed wet for weeks at a time
@@SmokinMonkeyOG If you do, make sure to pressure wash it whenever its driven in the winter. Those textured paints hold onto road salt very very well and that's why they cause body panels to rot. Unlike the frame, those panels are a lot thinner and have less metal to "sacrifice" to oxidation before they rust through.
Yeah, that’s one thing I always do is make sure to wash all of my vehicles as soon as I get them in the salt it definitely helps
Hey buddy you are exactly right! If he could have seen a buddy of mine frame spring hangers and rear-ended dropping out of it he wouldn't do it. Frame had a hair holding it together when they pulled in shop. One more mile or less it would've been scattered all over road on pieces. I have never seen anything in that bad of shape and it didn't take long but my buddy said somebody told him bout it and he liked it but nobody told him not to so I hope it works out for bigbird but I reckon we will see.
@Tommy-rr7ez I’m not doing the frame. My frame is rust free and I have been coating it with a gravel guard for years. The body will get a bed liner on it. If there’s no rust when you put it on and SEAL IT then I don’t understand how any rust will start forming underneath the SEALED surface. I’m not covering up rust. So just like paint I don’t see how you will have rust form between the bed liner and the metal if the metal is rust free to begin with. The underside will also be coated but with something else that I’ve been using for years
you nicked some wiring @ 26:58 better check it out.
That was the blower motor cover. I checked as I was working but good eye
OK, sorry, this is buggy me. Just take the seat out
To be honest I’m not even gonna take it out when I coat the floor. Every bolt is breaking and nothing wants to come out. It would be a whole day to remove the seats and bolts and it’s not worth the headache