I try to balance everyone out. Makes it a challenge. I am doing an overseeding with TTTF this fall. Also a big focus on poa annual control and fall fertilization.
Love the channel. I am a landscape maintenance foreman in the pnw. I have a new lawn I am renovating that is all crabgrass. Nuke a few weeks ahead, aerate, power rake, tenacity as pre m, seed, top dress with soil conditioner. Reading the dimension granule label I am confused as the for best crabgrass control without interfering with a tentative plan to overseed the subsequent fall. (1 year after Reno) Any advice is appreciated.
Tenacity will give you pre emergent for seeding. After seed has germinated and matured month after germination) you can put dimension down primarily for poa annua control for winter. Only thing that would shut the door if you want to seed in the spring. There may be a few spots that did not take so you may want to have that option open. Controlling most spring weeds is easy with tenacity then seeding. What soil conditioner you are using?
@@GregPhillips.22 G&B soil conditioner. I like it in place of chaff for moisture retention, and optimistically for some biological properties. So you think overseeing in spring and using mesotrione as a pre-e and maybe quinclorac as a post e for crabgrass? Vs hammering it with 2 applications of dimension march/april + after aeration?
@@browneagle2774 see where you at in March. You could seed in April, let the grass mature. Put out a post emergent application to handle what poped up in the spring. Then follow up with a post emergent to handle summer weeds. That is if you need to seed in the spring. Hope fall seed goes well and do the usual Feb/March then follow with a June app of pre emergent.
Another question if I may. I used my pro plugger for some spots and need to know what is the best fertilizer to help them spread. One area had about 40 plugs. They're green but not spreading. Bermuda grass.
Couple of things you can do ....one is obviously a nitrogen application. I'd recommend a foliar application of that area. There is a 28-0- 0 product from simple solutions. I'll leave a link below. Also slice the area frequently. That will break up the stolen and encourage the Bermuda grass to spread.. that's essentially how I grew in 419 Bermuda grass on golf course construction projects after sprigging them. Pd ad Amazon link amzn.to/3LzojlM
@@GregPhillips.22 consider doing some thing on irrigation practices as most people want a set it and forget it philosophy that just doesn’t work with various weather types and drought conditions. Including, but not limited to wedding agents if you support their use on lower cut turf.
Hey Greg, I’m overseeding this fall (cool season) and I’m planning on spraying Tenacity a few weeks prior and using the Scott’s triple action when I seed. Can I skip the Tenacity for the Scott’s or still do both?
Great, great video!! Very informative, thank you. I didn’t know you should swipe back and forth with my arms when using a backpack sprayer. I always just kept my arm still and let the sprayer fan out and do the work. Do you think I’m spraying too much by not swiping?
It all depends... it can work holding your arm still. If you take a look at my backpack calibration video I'll show you how to see if you're coverage is correct. Basically what you do is put water in your backpack sprayer go out on an asphalt road and spray. Travel about 50 feet then turn around and watch how the water you put on the road evaporates. It all evaporates at the same time you have good coverage. I show it in my video of how to do that. The main thing is overlapping properly and ensuring you're getting the same amount of product out over the given area.
In my opinion walking a straight line and not swinging back and forth is the best way to apply with a backpack sprayer. This gives you the exact coverage you need. When using a flat fan tip, the edges are designed to spray less so your overlapping is then the same amount as your center swath. Swinging the spray head creates an uneven application rate that is difficult to control, and also creates more spray drift. There's a lot of information on the pro's and con's of each so check it out, but I'd go with the straight line method any day and give your arms a break!
What have you found to be the best herbicide for wood violet , ground ivy , and wood sorrels for warm season grasses . I moved into an older home with St Aug , centipede , and native bermuda. Multiple grassy and broadleaf weeds due to poor yard care. Combating the annual heat wave here in NE Texas. Any advice is welcome . Love your channel.
Thanks for the kind words. I think Celsius in the packets would be your best bet. When it's above 90 do not use a surfactant. That advice is directly from bayer the manufacturer so that would be the best move.
@@GregPhillips.22Thank you for the quick response. I have done one Celsius app mixed with Certainty for sedges about 2 weeks ago with no result on the ivy type weeds so far. I'll wait another week or two and then do Celsius only with no surfactant. The Certainty is showing results on the sedges / Kalinga.
My neighbor cuts his grass to the dirt and his yard is all weeds, and I’m constantly fighting weeds that are coming over into my yard. The worst one is creeping Charlie or wild violet. I cannot get rid of it, and it just keeps coming back and taking over my yard.
Boy would i love to have you as my neighbor. I just went through utter hell up here in the North-East with my measly 1,200 sq ft yard, i started from nearly bare dirt and did everything by the book, i used the so-called "best of everything" including Jonathan Green Black-Beauty Ultra seeds, then this late June heatwave came in, only the 3rd time in 15-years mind you, and roasted almost everything i grew in, now i have some kinda weeds everywhere, AHHHH, EVERYTHING JUST LOOKS LIKE SHIT!!!! Pretty unbelievable for a freshly grown in lawn, you wouldn't thjnk it if you seen it. I won't even get into how much everything cost me or how much back-breaking work this cost me and my 55-year old broken back and shoulder 😢
Thanks for the feedback! Have a thatch video scheduled for tonight at 7. Focus is thatch of course but also how many of these videos tell you to do stuff thst is unnecessary. Check out my reclamation video..also Artimuss tall fescue is a great 3 way blend of top tall fescue varieties. It will perform well in the NE.
I totally agree and it was a goal when I first started. Problems are the warm/cool season grasses thing. I hate to do two videos on the same subject. There are so many differences I could easily do that. Then trying to be sure I get what folks need to make the right decision. Want to be thorough enough so everyone understands so they don't loose grass. First rule is do no harm. It's why I am so conservative in my approach. I do a lot of editing, retakes,notes to keep things moving. I think to leave something out and wonder if that is the one thing folks need to know. I am going to try to do some TH-cam shorts soon. Have tired those in the past and concerned someone takes advice that may not work on their type of grass or their situation. Thanks for the kind words and feedback!!!
Celsius herbicide this is a very safe herbicide for warm season grasses. Please follow the label. They recommend non ionic surfactant up to 90degreese. Higher temps than that Bayer does not recommend the surfactant. Pd ad amzn.to/3RG4Tik
Hose end adaptor..Specticide weed stop for lawns with crabgrass killer. Follow the label for all grasses except St.Augustine and Centipede grass. Pd ad amzn.to/3VWEgZ2
You paint with too broad of a brush. Wait until after August 15th? This is written in stone? Where? By you? In northern Minnesota, some years, the leaves are already changing colors and autumn is knocking on the door. My turf doesn't know a calendar.
You either get crabgrass early or late. For your region University of Minnesota states before the 3 tiller stage. Likely this will be prior or just after July4th. Or after the 5 tiller stage. Likely that will be after August 15. See UMs publication attached. extension.umn.edu/weeds/crabgrass#herbicide-control-3651661
Greg, your a life saver! TY for educating us! Wish u did more about TTTF for us Northerners 😊
I try to balance everyone out. Makes it a challenge. I am doing an overseeding with TTTF this fall. Also a big focus on poa annual control and fall fertilization.
Love the channel. I am a landscape maintenance foreman in the pnw. I have a new lawn I am renovating that is all crabgrass. Nuke a few weeks ahead, aerate, power rake, tenacity as pre m, seed, top dress with soil conditioner. Reading the dimension granule label I am confused as the for best crabgrass control without interfering with a tentative plan to overseed the subsequent fall. (1 year after Reno)
Any advice is appreciated.
Tenacity will give you pre emergent for seeding. After seed has germinated and matured month after germination) you can put dimension down primarily for poa annua control for winter. Only thing that would shut the door if you want to seed in the spring. There may be a few spots that did not take so you may want to have that option open. Controlling most spring weeds is easy with tenacity then seeding. What soil conditioner you are using?
@@GregPhillips.22 G&B soil conditioner. I like it in place of chaff for moisture retention, and optimistically for some biological properties. So you think overseeing in spring and using mesotrione as a pre-e and maybe quinclorac as a post e for crabgrass? Vs hammering it with 2 applications of dimension march/april + after aeration?
**I mean dimension in march and June.
@@browneagle2774 see where you at in March. You could seed in April, let the grass mature. Put out a post emergent application to handle what poped up in the spring. Then follow up with a post emergent to handle summer weeds. That is if you need to seed in the spring. Hope fall seed goes well and do the usual Feb/March then follow with a June app of pre emergent.
Can you mix Sublime and Tenacity together to take care of broadleaf and nutsedge?
You can not do that. you are applying two herbicides with the same active ingredient. It would be like doubling the rate.
Another question if I may. I used my pro plugger for some spots and need to know what is the best fertilizer to help them spread. One area had about 40 plugs. They're green but not spreading. Bermuda grass.
Couple of things you can do ....one is obviously a nitrogen application. I'd recommend a foliar application of that area. There is a 28-0- 0 product from simple solutions. I'll leave a link below. Also slice the area frequently. That will break up the stolen and encourage the Bermuda grass to spread.. that's essentially how I grew in 419 Bermuda grass on golf course construction projects after sprigging them. Pd ad
Amazon link
amzn.to/3LzojlM
Great work!
Thanks for the feedback and kind words!
@@GregPhillips.22 consider doing some thing on irrigation practices as most people want a set it and forget it philosophy that just doesn’t work with various weather types and drought conditions. Including, but not limited to wedding agents if you support their use on lower cut turf.
Hey Greg, I’m overseeding this fall (cool season) and I’m planning on spraying Tenacity a few weeks prior and using the Scott’s triple action when I seed. Can I skip the Tenacity for the Scott’s or still do both?
If Scott's tripple action for seed it has the same active ingredient so do one or the other. Both would not be necessary
@@GregPhillips.22 Thank you!
Great, great video!! Very informative, thank you. I didn’t know you should swipe back and forth with my arms when using a backpack sprayer. I always just kept my arm still and let the sprayer fan out and do the work. Do you think I’m spraying too much by not swiping?
It all depends... it can work holding your arm still. If you take a look at my backpack calibration video I'll show you how to see if you're coverage is correct. Basically what you do is put water in your backpack sprayer go out on an asphalt road and spray. Travel about 50 feet then turn around and watch how the water you put on the road evaporates. It all evaporates at the same time you have good coverage. I show it in my video of how to do that. The main thing is overlapping properly and ensuring you're getting the same amount of product out over the given area.
@@GregPhillips.22 thanks so much, I’ll watch that video!
In my opinion walking a straight line and not swinging back and forth is the best way to apply with a backpack sprayer. This gives you the exact coverage you need. When using a flat fan tip, the edges are designed to spray less so your overlapping is then the same amount as your center swath. Swinging the spray head creates an uneven application rate that is difficult to control, and also creates more spray drift. There's a lot of information on the pro's and con's of each so check it out, but I'd go with the straight line method any day and give your arms a break!
Asking this at the 6 min mark but will Celsius work on Spurge? If not, what would be best to use? Thanks, you have a great channel!
According to the label if you go out at the max rate of 0.113 oz/1000 it will. As far as the compliment thanks! I am glad I can help
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us amateur lawn lovers.
My pleasure. Just happy to help when I can!
What have you found to be the best herbicide for wood violet , ground ivy , and wood sorrels for warm season grasses . I moved into an older home with St Aug , centipede , and native bermuda. Multiple grassy and broadleaf weeds due to poor yard care. Combating the annual heat wave here in NE Texas. Any advice is welcome . Love your channel.
Thanks for the kind words. I think Celsius in the packets would be your best bet. When it's above 90 do not use a surfactant. That advice is directly from bayer the manufacturer so that would be the best move.
@@GregPhillips.22Thank you for the quick response. I have done one Celsius app mixed with Certainty for sedges about 2 weeks ago with no result on the ivy type weeds so far. I'll wait another week or two and then do Celsius only with no surfactant. The Certainty is showing results on the sedges / Kalinga.
My neighbor cuts his grass to the dirt and his yard is all weeds, and I’m constantly fighting weeds that are coming over into my yard. The worst one is creeping Charlie or wild violet. I cannot get rid of it, and it just keeps coming back and taking over my yard.
What kind of grass do you have? Happy to help!
@@GregPhillips.22 thank you! It is a mix of cold season grasses: Perennial rye, TTTF, and some KBG.
Boy would i love to have you as my neighbor. I just went through utter hell up here in the North-East with my measly 1,200 sq ft yard, i started from nearly bare dirt and did everything by the book, i used the so-called "best of everything" including Jonathan Green Black-Beauty Ultra seeds, then this late June heatwave came in, only the 3rd time in 15-years mind you, and roasted almost everything i grew in, now i have some kinda weeds everywhere, AHHHH, EVERYTHING JUST LOOKS LIKE SHIT!!!! Pretty unbelievable for a freshly grown in lawn, you wouldn't thjnk it if you seen it. I won't even get into how much everything cost me or how much back-breaking work this cost me and my 55-year old broken back and shoulder 😢
Thanks for the feedback! Have a thatch video scheduled for tonight at 7. Focus is thatch of course but also how many of these videos tell you to do stuff thst is unnecessary. Check out my reclamation video..also Artimuss tall fescue is a great 3 way blend of top tall fescue varieties. It will perform well in the NE.
Love your videos wish they were 15 minutes max!
I totally agree and it was a goal when I first started. Problems are the warm/cool season grasses thing. I hate to do two videos on the same subject. There are so many differences I could easily do that. Then trying to be sure I get what folks need to make the right decision. Want to be thorough enough so everyone understands so they don't loose grass. First rule is do no harm. It's why I am so conservative in my approach. I do a lot of editing, retakes,notes to keep things moving. I think to leave something out and wonder if that is the one thing folks need to know. I am going to try to do some TH-cam shorts soon. Have tired those in the past and concerned someone takes advice that may not work on their type of grass or their situation. Thanks for the kind words and feedback!!!
Celsius herbicide this is a very safe herbicide for warm season grasses. Please follow the label. They recommend non ionic surfactant up to 90degreese. Higher temps than that Bayer does not recommend the surfactant. Pd ad amzn.to/3RG4Tik
Unfortunately Celsius cannot be shipped to California.....what would be a great alternative?
Hose end adaptor..Specticide weed stop for lawns with crabgrass killer. Follow the label for all grasses except St.Augustine and Centipede grass. Pd ad amzn.to/3VWEgZ2
Spectracide makes a hose end weed killer that is safe for St Augustine and Centipede grass it comes in a purple top sprayer
You paint with too broad of a brush.
Wait until after August 15th? This is written in stone? Where? By you? In northern Minnesota, some years, the leaves are already changing colors and autumn is knocking on the door. My turf doesn't know a calendar.
You either get crabgrass early or late. For your region University of Minnesota states before the 3 tiller stage. Likely this will be prior or just after July4th. Or after the 5 tiller stage. Likely that will be after August 15. See UMs publication attached. extension.umn.edu/weeds/crabgrass#herbicide-control-3651661
Sedgehammer herbicide. This is an excellent herbicide for purple and yellow nutsedge Pd ad amzn.to/4cjM5Of
Hey Greg will thus work now in Oklahoma. I got a lil packet of it and was gonna spray today since it's not too hot due to Hurricane berryl..
Scotts triple action for seed. Pd ad amzn.to/4bhbabe
Tenacity herbicide on Amazon. Pd ad amzn.to/3RGobnW
Sublime herbicide diypestcontrol.com/sublime-herbicide?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsuSzBhCLARIsAIcdLm6RR66mOk4hD78DQd9jZze_dvXRwnv6C0c50nusSC3SLrzC-dhq-JsaAmN2EALw_wcB