Big fan of PacLock products. You can actually order through them directly if you call them. The sales team is great - ship products quickly and they have always shipped for free. My big box stores haven't started to stock these - so only option was to order direct. Can't say enough great things about them! Happy to see new products!
Well done, Bill! I just got home from work (getting our stainless rectangular products into production BTW) and the video was more than entertaining! A lot of effort has gone into that particular product, and it really is something we're proud of. The 304 stainless is no joke from a machining perspective also. I'll throw some comments/responses to your viewers as I always do... I hope you and yours are staying safe and healthy during these tough times.
@@two_tier_gary_rumain One day we'll do a piece on our manufacturing ~ but right now, we're pretty tight lipped about it. We've developed some pretty trick/unique tooling and setup processes that allow us to run smaller volumes of parts and quickly switch to an entirely different part on that same machine. So one day...
Lol... I did the same thing when disassembling my first padlock ucs core. I wound up drilling through the cylinder to push that one driver back out of the retaining slot so I could pull it. Thanks for not cutting the disaster out of the video - mistakes are a great way to learn.
Paclock comes through yet again. I'm glad to know these exist, I just bought a Jeep and will be towing a boat so I'm in the market for one of these. Hopefully it's not impossible to get in Canada...if I don't win of course 😃😉😃😉👍
This is perfect as I just received a new b&w tow and stow yesterday and was looking for a new hitch pin lock. Fairly new to this channel and been watching LPL for awhile but fun to watch and learn from both skilled masters.
Some problems If the shaft is made of 304SS then it will not have the appropriate shear strength compared to a hardened alloy pin. 2nd it will also create a galvanic corrosion problem as it makes contact with the mild steel hitch components... never mix alloys (or high carbon) steels with pure stainless in assemblies that are exposed to elements as it will hasten corrosion.
I do love Packlock. Made in the US, great customer service. By some strange accident my ball bearing holes were too large and they fell out. Contacted CS and they immediately shipped out new locks with a label in the box to ship back. They're my reasonably priced padlock of choice!
Thank you! Yup, that drill operation to support the ball bearings is a tricky one. Too deep and the ball bearing falls through, not deep enough and the actuator binds. We're pretty darn good at that op, but every now and again we find a few mostly because of a loading issue of that part(s) in the machine. Glad to hear our team took care of you and got you some fresh locks!!
I did the exact same thing on my first time gutting a paclock core to check it out. I was yelling at the tv before your disaster. Thanks for the review! Been wanting to buy one of these just haven't pulled the trigger.
Very impressive, Bill! I could only dream of being half as talented as you! After 3 years, I can hold my own but, I sure admire the ones at your level! It's always a pleasure to watch your videos, Bill! Have a great weekend
Currently have the stainless one setup for the up to 2.5” receiver. Have not taken it out all winter long so it has been covered in road grime and salt. It opened with ease the last time I switched the hitches out. So far, so good! Paclock is the locks that I have been recommending to my friends. Paclock one key system is also very helpful if you have multiple padlocks and hitch locks. One key to carry for all of the locks.
I can attest opening my first fully serrated (per my email) it's crazy the amount of crunch there is. And thanks for the response! I was totally not expecting a return email.
Are you a spy?!?! Maybe my marketing team has been pushing out info on the UCS-79A!!! Ha! The 79A is pretty darn cool, we shot a video for it last week and looking forward to it hitting the streets as well!
@@paclockpres.9805 I asked about needing one for my Bulldog, was told one was coming. I pre-ordered. My comment on it, would be the pins' 'head' should be more mushroom, since it is exposed for tool access. A clamshell style lock would be more secure (when trailer is attached and coupled).
@@demmarcsxr Thank you for not just the order, but for throwing out some thoughts on the design. I'll admit, I'm not quite following on the mushroom look for the head of the pin??? We want to be sure we leave enough surface area on the pin head for you to grab and yank hard if, for some reason, the pin gets wedged into the hitch. And I think that will allow for some tool access. But we are more than open to ideas on how to make things better... I'll even make a one-off for you personally just for you to test out and give us your thoughts. We know we're not always the smartest people in the room, and certainly not the only ones who can come up with good ideas!!! Maybe I can have my crew reach out to you on Monday to follow up? BTW ~ the bodies are all produced for the TL-79A and they are off at our anodizers. We've been waiting for a new chuck holder on our lathe to produce the pins, and that part came in Friday. So we'll be producing the pins this week... good timing for new ideas!
@@paclockpres.9805 If you look up Bulldog hitches 028630, you'll see a captured safety pin behind the collar. This is where I intend to use the 79A. The lock head will be under it, head of the pin on top. If there is slop, the head can be grabbed with pliers and under cut, or, it can be 'pipe bent' off similar to other drawbar locks weaknesses. A mushroomed head (similar to a carriage bolt) would minimize attack possibility. A clamshell lock around it (tight to the main collar) with a protected shackle trailer coupler lock would be better, but the only one on the market is way too sloppily built.
One of these days you'll get the hang of gutting locks without messing up or injuring yourself ;) Nah, great review as ever :) When you started that timer my mind went "if it takes too long he will have to send them a .....ow wait...."
Those would work perfect! Live in Washington where the road salts kill your locks. Had to drill out two different ones in the matter of only 2 years...
The thread is more to screw into the Yakima rack itself. They have a bolt (kind of) inside their hitch that, as you put the pin through, you need to actually screw it into place. So once you bottom out (fully tightened), you've effectively cinched the hitch up against the rack so no wiggling. It's a good idea. Once that's done, you put the lock on the other side. So the lock is pretty independent from the threading feature. You can actually turn the pins all you want, the lock itself will just rotate around and around with it.
@@paclockpres.9805 I think the point is that the threads give you something to work with. If you try to undo the bolt, eventually to unwind it you'll be putting force on the lock, and in a more magnified way than is possible than with just the smooth sloped surface on the other pins. With enough torque, either the lock will pop off the end, the item in the middle being locked will be crushed, or the pin will snap. First two are most likely.
@@someonesomewhere1240 I'm with you now! I don't think we really did much research or engineering into how long to make the threads to even see if what you're saying would be possible. We literally just copied a pin from a Yakima rack. But maybe those guys never thought of that sort of thing. I think the simple fix is to decrease the length of the threads to the point where it won't put pressure on the lock (assuming it does today, haven't checked that!). It's something we'll check out. That would be one hell of a test to do though, if it was possible! The stainless pin won't shear or break (my guess), and the stainless lock body is pretty darn strong too. It has a stainless steel locking ball... but it pushes up against a brass actuator (solid). Maybe that would be the weak point. But I think it would take a lot like you mentioned!
@@paclockpres.9805 My prediction is that you would torque the head off of the pin before the lock would break. That seems to be the weak point on a lot of bolts of this sort.
Just received my first Paclocks yesterday. One of the things I noticed in researching locks is you always see Paclocks being picked: never raked, combed, bumped, or other bypassed methods. This tells me that destructive methods or picking is the only way to open these locks. And with Paclocks interest in the lockpicking community I feel confident that any bypass that is discovered will be quickly countered. No lock is pick proof but if you can make it a 12 min ordeal then the thief will probably give up or get destructive. So theses seem like great locks to me.
I understand this lock is great at resisting picking, but the issue with locking hitch pins across all the other brands is that they can be broken off using a metal pipe. How would this hold up to the thief with a metal pipe breaking off the pin?
@@cheyannei5983 You have to rotate the core in the *opposite* direction that you would to unlock the lock. That isn't guaranteed to keep things from locking up, but if you slide out the core in the same direction that it turned, you know for a fact that the retaining groove is underneath the pins. Note that if the retaining screw isn't in line with the pins, then it gets more complicated. In that case, if you have a key, the easiest thing I can think of is to hold a sharpie on the face of the core in line with the retaining pin and then turn the core back and forth to its full limits of rotation. The sharpie will draw out a line on the face of the curve that shows where the retaining groove is.
@@cheyannei5983 I loosen the sets crew at the top and rotate a small portion to the opposite side. Usually it's cheaper to just replace the lock but its fun to rekey them so lots of locks have the same key
I once got a ticket for using only a lock to secure my draw bar. They include the R pin so it’s compliant with law, and the lock is only for security...
I bet the cotter pin is a requirement either for legal or liability reasons. Plus visible assurance that the pin will stay in (if you forget to lock it).
Actually we added the cotter pin because we watched and heard the concerns/complaints about other products in this category. Well, we've heard a lot about other locks literally falling off because they're such garbage. And while we can't ever think of a scenario where that could happen to our lock, we'd prefer to simply give the customer and ourselves the peace of mind knowing that the cotter pin is there just in case. We may actually make versions of the pin that don't have the cotter pin. By adding in the cotter pin feature, it lengthened the pin itself by a good amount. And we fear that the extra length on the pin may make it difficult, or just not possible, to get the pin to go through the hitch. Just the angles and space may prevent it on some people's hitch setups. In those cases, we'd offer the shorter version... haven't officially said "yes" to this yet, but waiting to get some real world feedback on the product once it's been in the wild for a little bit!
Try pulling that cylinder out by screwing in a old style dent puller into key way . That little Allen head that holds the cylinder in looks pretty weak
On the yakima threaded pin, what would happen if someone would try backing out the pin with a big cordless impact? Would the lock be strong enough to keep it from being pulled out? Some of the dewalt and milwaukee 1/2" impacts have a LOT of torque!
Right with you ~ someone had the same insight earlier. Don't know is the answer, but we see what you guys are saying. We literally just copied the setup Yakima had on their pin, so I guess you could possibly do that to their pins right now. Not sure. We're going to look at this design in more detail to see how long those threads really need to be and also how far away the locks needs to be so that the whole pin would free spin before the padlock would get squished up against the hitch side.
Awesome stuff. Do they have trailer locks and do they happen to ship to Australia? Would love to get some of these at some stage, maybe even stick BiLock cores in them-with their blessing, of course (in case you guys are reading this. :P). That'd make one hell of a beast. BiLock is pretty rare outside of Australia, but they use them just about anywhere security is important here. Really popular in Australia!
Receiver lock? A hitch pin is at the ball is it not? Either way, have you poked at the cheepo from harbor freight? They are 15 for the lil and 19 for the biggun. I never looked at it, just put it on. Can say that mine is pretty messed up from bottoming out and won't turn half the time.
We make quite a lot of padlocks to fit the FSIC format of cylinders... at this point, though, we haven't looked at making this new lock (UCS-80) to work with that format. Is it something you'd just need one or two for yourself???
The city I live in, engages in extortion. They had a towing company, tow my trailer, from in front of my house. They cut off the lock, that was on there to prevent it being connected to a ball hitch, and stolen. Then they towed it. I know from history, they will put a lean on your house, if you don't get the vehicle, or trailer, they have stolen from in front of your house, or somewhere else in town. My brother in law sold the car, that was his parent's car. He did fill out, and turn in the release of liability, but they tried to put a lean on his mom's house, because the person that bought the car, never registered it, and got it towed. So, when they stole my trailer, I made sure to get it back, so they didn't put a lean on my house. So, I paid $175, to the police, to release it, then the towing company charged $400 for the tow and first day. Then it's $100 per day. So it cost me more to get the trailer back, so they don't put a lean on my house, than what the trailer even cost me, to begin with.
@@paclockpres.9805 Dumb question but since you're here, when I'm comparing the various locks applicable to a travel trailer like the ball latch, the receiver pin, and the cabinet locks for hatches, I see both a traditional product and a UCS product. Are the UCS replacement cores themselves rekeyable, and what's the difference in sizes between the keys of the two systems?
@@TWX1138 The keys are slightly different - the "traditional product" having a slightly larger key. But the real difference between UCS and what we call our "SR Series" (TL, 90A, 100, etc.) lies in the design of the lock and the cylinder. The "SR Series" was originally built to be a direct replacement for American Lock padlocks, but when we had the opportunity to launch our products into Home Depot, we built the UCS version, which is really going to revolutionize how traditional padlocks are bought and used. Not only are our cylinders eons above comparable padlocks like ML/AL, but every UCS lock is designed and machined with extreme tolerances to all have interchangeable cylinders that are easy enough to where the average user could re-pin their own lock. That means every single UCS PACLOCK can use the same key and you can re-pin whenever you need to - let's say an employee walked off with a key. That's the basic difference between UCS and SR, but there's also a myriad of other things like all stainless steel pins and all brass, stainless, and aluminum components in UCS PACLOCKs that really make it a premium product.
Not really. But the intent with our "UCS" system is to make it so that we bring easy-rekeying into the retail world directly. If we incorporated a control bar, then there'd need to be a control key. And if there were a control key, then we just couldn't see a smart way to prevent people from running around and simply pulling out the cores and opening the locks. We'd need to offer lots of different control keys, and that would get really confusing fast. Does this make sense?
@@paclockpres.9805 zactley,, sfic it's debatable whether it decreases or improves security. certainly easier to rekey then having to pull a screw. 10 seconds vs.10 minuets. don't get me wrong it is a nice design. The question is could you use a cylinder that had a control bar, would it fit, most sfic cores have the mounting screw available.
@@chasingcapsaicin Our cylinders just don't have the room... they're essentially the same size as a Master/American which is about 20% smaller than a typical SFIC...
@@chasingcapsaicin Totally with you on having to pull a core from a door knob and it taking way longer than if it has an SFIC. But on a padlock, it's probably more like 30 seconds versus 10 seconds (pop the padlock, remove the screw). When the day comes to where we are manufacturing door hardware, we might have to figure something out to make that easy as well! Not sure which mounting screw you're thinking of on an SFIC core... the two holes in the rear allow for the rotational forks to engage with the core. You have me curious!
For the kingpin, we likely need to produce something totally different. This is more for the standard trailer hitch ~ and we will get to producing a product to lock up the kingpin...
Nothing so elegant. I dremeled it open to see what went wrong, threw the debris in the trash, and started up with a fresh core to show the 'right" way to gut the darn things. The idea being: Learn from MY mistakes. 😋
the "7th" pin you felt was the holding pin. I can see that the slot hole extends into the keyway part of the lock. You should have felt that the holding pin was completely solid and wasn't springy however, when counting the pins.
This does not compare to the disaster I had trying to put my 72/40 back together again. It went sideways because I didn't have a follower. And the actuator on the core wasn't very suitable to guide the driver pins back in. I had shredded springs faster than it would have taken to buy the proper tools.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
![[901] A Trailer Lock That I Would Use... Picked (Proven Industries)](/img/n.gif)
I do like how Packlock are one of those companies that wants to improve.
Big fan of PacLock products. You can actually order through them directly if you call them. The sales team is great - ship products quickly and they have always shipped for free. My big box stores haven't started to stock these - so only option was to order direct. Can't say enough great things about them! Happy to see new products!
Thank you so much! And certainly appreciate the kind words about our sales team, I'll be sure to bring that up on Monday.
Do they ship to Canada?
Well done, Bill! I just got home from work (getting our stainless rectangular products into production BTW) and the video was more than entertaining! A lot of effort has gone into that particular product, and it really is something we're proud of. The 304 stainless is no joke from a machining perspective also.
I'll throw some comments/responses to your viewers as I always do... I hope you and yours are staying safe and healthy during these tough times.
The hitch pins look very well machined. Would love to see a video on your machining processes.
Yea, the next lock I buy is going to be a paclock. I actively despise most marketing. This is how you get your brand out there the right way.
@@two_tier_gary_rumain One day we'll do a piece on our manufacturing ~ but right now, we're pretty tight lipped about it. We've developed some pretty trick/unique tooling and setup processes that allow us to run smaller volumes of parts and quickly switch to an entirely different part on that same machine. So one day...
@@stevenrs11 Much appreciated!
@@paclockpres.9805 Sounds very interesting.
Bill, without the occasional gutting disaster, how would we know it's you. Great video!
It's LPL with a voice changer when there is no gutting disaster 😉
I wrote the name "Alfred" on all my hitch locks.
Ah ha ha
Hahaha, I see what you did there 😂👍🏻
For The Birds?
bradw 053
Ha ha--wait...I didn't!
Looks like a company that makes quality products.
Everyone else yelling “shim!” When he pulled the screw from the seven place?
Thank you for all the knowledge that you have shared with us. Have a great time in retirement and know that we are going to miss you a great deal.
Lol... I did the same thing when disassembling my first padlock ucs core. I wound up drilling through the cylinder to push that one driver back out of the retaining slot so I could pull it. Thanks for not cutting the disaster out of the video - mistakes are a great way to learn.
Good to see a product that lives up to expectations once in a while.
👍🏻 You are always a joy to watch and learn from. You are real. 😊
Thanks for your honesty, Bill. You deserve a medal! 🥇
Paclock comes through yet again. I'm glad to know these exist, I just bought a Jeep and will be towing a boat so I'm in the market for one of these. Hopefully it's not impossible to get in Canada...if I don't win of course 😃😉😃😉👍
This is perfect as I just received a new b&w tow and stow yesterday and was looking for a new hitch pin lock. Fairly new to this channel and been watching LPL for awhile but fun to watch and learn from both skilled masters.
Some problems
If the shaft is made of 304SS then it will not have the appropriate shear strength compared to a hardened alloy pin. 2nd it will also create a galvanic corrosion problem as it makes contact with the mild steel hitch components... never mix alloys (or high carbon) steels with pure stainless in assemblies that are exposed to elements as it will hasten corrosion.
Wow awesome lock and I loved the challenge of picking it! Great Job bill keep up these great videos!!!
6:27 That plastic ziplock bag took longer to open, than most masterlocks on BB's youtube channel :)
I hear a man once sneezed while walking by a display of MasterLocks and they all fell open.
Just burst out laughing reading this, well done sir!
I do love Packlock. Made in the US, great customer service. By some strange accident my ball bearing holes were too large and they fell out. Contacted CS and they immediately shipped out new locks with a label in the box to ship back. They're my reasonably priced padlock of choice!
Thank you! Yup, that drill operation to support the ball bearings is a tricky one. Too deep and the ball bearing falls through, not deep enough and the actuator binds. We're pretty darn good at that op, but every now and again we find a few mostly because of a loading issue of that part(s) in the machine. Glad to hear our team took care of you and got you some fresh locks!!
Great show bill I like the Paclock locks they look even better on the back of my truck thanks bill
I'm so eager to get a Paclock!!!
Miss ya Bill. You taught me more than all the others put together.
Awww, C'mon bill, show the results of the disaster!
No way. Better to let you THINK I'm stupid than to post the video and CONFIRM it. 😟
@@bosnianbill 👌
@@bosnianbill Also: GREAT patreon exclussive opportunity. Let them PAY to see you fail
@@bosnianbill smart.
Per the Paclock CEO, that last pin is also to resist bump attacks.
Yes, sir! Thank you!
The most entertaining and educational disasters known to Man. Thanks, Bill!
Bill's disasters are always the best!
I did the exact same thing on my first time gutting a paclock core to check it out. I was yelling at the tv before your disaster.
Thanks for the review! Been wanting to buy one of these just haven't pulled the trigger.
Very impressive, Bill! I could only dream of being half as talented as you! After 3 years, I can hold my own but, I sure admire the ones at your level! It's always a pleasure to watch your videos, Bill! Have a great weekend
I love that it has a hex head for quick threading or if it gets siezed you can get it off with an impact.
Currently have the stainless one setup for the up to 2.5” receiver. Have not taken it out all winter long so it has been covered in road grime and salt. It opened with ease the last time I switched the hitches out. So far, so good! Paclock is the locks that I have been recommending to my friends. Paclock one key system is also very helpful if you have multiple padlocks and hitch locks. One key to carry for all of the locks.
Much appreciated!
Thank you for all your great videos you have given us.
Enjoy your retirement.
So that's what a good lock looks like
I just got a sweet B & W hitch, and now I have a sweet Paclock lock on the way. 🤘
PACLOCK Products...wouldn't expect anything less than the best from them. Just quality locks.
Thank you!
Nicely done Bill, love Paclock products, high quality, and always a challenging pick 👍🏻.. speaking of picks.. Ratyoke!!
I destroyed one of my cylinders turning it the wrong way!! I couldn’t get it apart at all!! Turn it 90* ccw ! Love your vids
I can attest opening my first fully serrated (per my email) it's crazy the amount of crunch there is. And thanks for the response! I was totally not expecting a return email.
Unreal. Am i reading this right? Approved? This calls for celebration. Break out the ale folks!
nice to see the green approved stamp once in a while
That stainless one looks amazing !!!for the price
Bill looks at keys: "Bunch of junk"
That’s a very cool setup. I’d love me one of those!
That's a fabulous giveaway. I don't think I've ever had a trailer hitch that secure 😂
Wow, so beautiful, too good to use on a trailer. Lol. Brilliant designs too! :)
Thank you!
2 years on a 2010 ford pickup I tried picking the receiver lock..ending up drilling it out 😂 Thanks Bill
I wish you well in retirement. Thank you for the years of knowledge that shall be a part of internet history forever. We will never forget you.
OUTSTANDING!
looks like i need one of these for my hitch.
1/4" pin version coming next week. UCS-79A. Good for Bulldog sliding collar hitches.
Are you a spy?!?! Maybe my marketing team has been pushing out info on the UCS-79A!!! Ha! The 79A is pretty darn cool, we shot a video for it last week and looking forward to it hitting the streets as well!
@@paclockpres.9805 I asked about needing one for my Bulldog, was told one was coming. I pre-ordered. My comment on it, would be the pins' 'head' should be more mushroom, since it is exposed for tool access. A clamshell style lock would be more secure (when trailer is attached and coupled).
@@demmarcsxr Thank you for not just the order, but for throwing out some thoughts on the design. I'll admit, I'm not quite following on the mushroom look for the head of the pin??? We want to be sure we leave enough surface area on the pin head for you to grab and yank hard if, for some reason, the pin gets wedged into the hitch. And I think that will allow for some tool access. But we are more than open to ideas on how to make things better... I'll even make a one-off for you personally just for you to test out and give us your thoughts. We know we're not always the smartest people in the room, and certainly not the only ones who can come up with good ideas!!! Maybe I can have my crew reach out to you on Monday to follow up? BTW ~ the bodies are all produced for the TL-79A and they are off at our anodizers. We've been waiting for a new chuck holder on our lathe to produce the pins, and that part came in Friday. So we'll be producing the pins this week... good timing for new ideas!
@@paclockpres.9805 If you look up Bulldog hitches 028630, you'll see a captured safety pin behind the collar. This is where I intend to use the 79A. The lock head will be under it, head of the pin on top. If there is slop, the head can be grabbed with pliers and under cut, or, it can be 'pipe bent' off similar to other drawbar locks weaknesses. A mushroomed head (similar to a carriage bolt) would minimize attack possibility.
A clamshell lock around it (tight to the main collar) with a protected shackle trailer coupler lock would be better, but the only one on the market is way too sloppily built.
@@demmarcsxr We'll dig into this ~
Love the new lock!
Paclock is awesome! Great review and nice pick job!
Dude! Did you NOT hear me screaming "shim" at my television, as you pressed the follower to the tail of the plug? I tried to save you, Bill.
Dude, next time pick up a phone....😂
@@bosnianbill 🤣Thanks for all of your great content, Bill!
One of these days you'll get the hang of gutting locks without messing up or injuring yourself ;)
Nah, great review as ever :)
When you started that timer my mind went "if it takes too long he will have to send them a .....ow wait...."
Paclockception
Those would work perfect! Live in Washington where the road salts kill your locks. Had to drill out two different ones in the matter of only 2 years...
Give us a shot, let us know how we do! Was at Ft. Lewis back in the late '90s... road salt for sure!
Love paclock! Get the re pinning kit,, you can pin ucs locks yourself.
Thanks for all the videos, keep being you.
Have a good retirement
I need one of those for my vintage trailer,,,,
Thanks Bill!
I learned lock-picking at an early age
It has opened many doors for me.
Groan!
Cool locks
Great to see a unedited... ops.
on the one with a thread on.. is it possible to "forse it open" by unscrewing it with a 5 feet long ratchet?
At that point it's like using an angle grinder on the head of the pin
The thread is more to screw into the Yakima rack itself. They have a bolt (kind of) inside their hitch that, as you put the pin through, you need to actually screw it into place. So once you bottom out (fully tightened), you've effectively cinched the hitch up against the rack so no wiggling. It's a good idea.
Once that's done, you put the lock on the other side. So the lock is pretty independent from the threading feature. You can actually turn the pins all you want, the lock itself will just rotate around and around with it.
@@paclockpres.9805 I think the point is that the threads give you something to work with. If you try to undo the bolt, eventually to unwind it you'll be putting force on the lock, and in a more magnified way than is possible than with just the smooth sloped surface on the other pins.
With enough torque, either the lock will pop off the end, the item in the middle being locked will be crushed, or the pin will snap. First two are most likely.
@@someonesomewhere1240 I'm with you now! I don't think we really did much research or engineering into how long to make the threads to even see if what you're saying would be possible. We literally just copied a pin from a Yakima rack. But maybe those guys never thought of that sort of thing.
I think the simple fix is to decrease the length of the threads to the point where it won't put pressure on the lock (assuming it does today, haven't checked that!). It's something we'll check out.
That would be one hell of a test to do though, if it was possible! The stainless pin won't shear or break (my guess), and the stainless lock body is pretty darn strong too. It has a stainless steel locking ball... but it pushes up against a brass actuator (solid). Maybe that would be the weak point. But I think it would take a lot like you mentioned!
@@paclockpres.9805 My prediction is that you would torque the head off of the pin before the lock would break. That seems to be the weak point on a lot of bolts of this sort.
Love Paclock!!
My new lock to keep my boat trailer safe.
Enjoy your retirement sir! Best wishes to you and your family.
Just gotta love it 😂😂
Great review and gutting.
We all learn from your mistakes.
Stay safe.
P.s did anyone else notice the tool that Bill and LPL made ?😉
Just received my first Paclocks yesterday. One of the things I noticed in researching locks is you always see Paclocks being picked: never raked, combed, bumped, or other bypassed methods. This tells me that destructive methods or picking is the only way to open these locks. And with Paclocks interest in the lockpicking community I feel confident that any bypass that is discovered will be quickly countered. No lock is pick proof but if you can make it a 12 min ordeal then the thief will probably give up or get destructive. So theses seem like great locks to me.
Thank you!
Thanks for the video 🔑🔒👍
Earliest comment I've made... I love paclock
Thank you!
I understand this lock is great at resisting picking, but the issue with locking hitch pins across all the other brands is that they can be broken off using a metal pipe. How would this hold up to the thief with a metal pipe breaking off the pin?
Bill Id love to see u hit the short side of the pin with a mini sledge, i feel the ball bearing will give a bit n the pin will slide past it out
When the core locked up during the first gutting I was like: "Ah-oh!" >.
Yeah, me too.... except something much nastier ran through my mind....😋
@@bosnianbill You weren't able to recover? I would have tried a magnet (assuming the pins were iron/steel rather than brass).
Pretty sure you sold Amazon out of these locks. Keep up the good work sir!!
The lock dentist 🦷 doing root canals on cylinders.
It looks like a pucklock core. Ive had that stupid rotation pin slot cause a disaster many times while learning!
How do you deal with the rotation pin?
@@cheyannei5983 You have to rotate the core in the *opposite* direction that you would to unlock the lock. That isn't guaranteed to keep things from locking up, but if you slide out the core in the same direction that it turned, you know for a fact that the retaining groove is underneath the pins.
Note that if the retaining screw isn't in line with the pins, then it gets more complicated. In that case, if you have a key, the easiest thing I can think of is to hold a sharpie on the face of the core in line with the retaining pin and then turn the core back and forth to its full limits of rotation. The sharpie will draw out a line on the face of the curve that shows where the retaining groove is.
@@cheyannei5983 I loosen the sets crew at the top and rotate a small portion to the opposite side. Usually it's cheaper to just replace the lock but its fun to rekey them so lots of locks have the same key
Looks like that 7th hole is leftover from manufacturing. Probably drilled out to position the core retention screw and index the groove.
Nice
I once got a ticket for using only a lock to secure my draw bar. They include the R pin so it’s compliant with law, and the lock is only for security...
I bet the cotter pin is a requirement either for legal or liability reasons. Plus visible assurance that the pin will stay in (if you forget to lock it).
Actually we added the cotter pin because we watched and heard the concerns/complaints about other products in this category. Well, we've heard a lot about other locks literally falling off because they're such garbage. And while we can't ever think of a scenario where that could happen to our lock, we'd prefer to simply give the customer and ourselves the peace of mind knowing that the cotter pin is there just in case.
We may actually make versions of the pin that don't have the cotter pin. By adding in the cotter pin feature, it lengthened the pin itself by a good amount. And we fear that the extra length on the pin may make it difficult, or just not possible, to get the pin to go through the hitch. Just the angles and space may prevent it on some people's hitch setups.
In those cases, we'd offer the shorter version... haven't officially said "yes" to this yet, but waiting to get some real world feedback on the product once it's been in the wild for a little bit!
I wonder if the core could be pulled from the body if the lock utilizing a puller from Wendt
Try pulling that cylinder out by screwing in a old style dent puller into key way . That little Allen head that holds the cylinder in looks pretty weak
On the yakima threaded pin, what would happen if someone would try backing out the pin with a big cordless impact? Would the lock be strong enough to keep it from being pulled out? Some of the dewalt and milwaukee 1/2" impacts have a LOT of torque!
Right with you ~ someone had the same insight earlier. Don't know is the answer, but we see what you guys are saying. We literally just copied the setup Yakima had on their pin, so I guess you could possibly do that to their pins right now. Not sure.
We're going to look at this design in more detail to see how long those threads really need to be and also how far away the locks needs to be so that the whole pin would free spin before the padlock would get squished up against the hitch side.
@@paclockpres.9805 Awesome! love to see a company that cares, and respond to customers feedback!
Awesome stuff. Do they have trailer locks and do they happen to ship to Australia? Would love to get some of these at some stage, maybe even stick BiLock cores in them-with their blessing, of course (in case you guys are reading this. :P). That'd make one hell of a beast. BiLock is pretty rare outside of Australia, but they use them just about anywhere security is important here. Really popular in Australia!
great video. wondering if the Aluminum model is susceptible to being bashed open? Realistically how less secure do you think it is?
Thanks for all you have given to the lock picking community. Enjoy your retirement!
How well do these do against brute force attacks?
Receiver lock? A hitch pin is at the ball is it not? Either way, have you poked at the cheepo from harbor freight? They are 15 for the lil and 19 for the biggun. I never looked at it, just put it on. Can say that mine is pretty messed up from bottoming out and won't turn half the time.
Did anyone else faintly hear the William Tell Overture when he sped up the video?
I wish they would make these to accept full sized SC1/SC4 keys. (FSIC)
We make quite a lot of padlocks to fit the FSIC format of cylinders... at this point, though, we haven't looked at making this new lock (UCS-80) to work with that format. Is it something you'd just need one or two for yourself???
What if the threaded pin is used, locked in place, then try to unscrew it?
The city I live in, engages in extortion. They had a towing company, tow my trailer, from in front of my house. They cut off the lock, that was on there to prevent it being connected to a ball hitch, and stolen. Then they towed it. I know from history, they will put a lean on your house, if you don't get the vehicle, or trailer, they have stolen from in front of your house, or somewhere else in town. My brother in law sold the car, that was his parent's car. He did fill out, and turn in the release of liability, but they tried to put a lean on his mom's house, because the person that bought the car, never registered it, and got it towed. So, when they stole my trailer, I made sure to get it back, so they didn't put a lean on my house. So, I paid $175, to the police, to release it, then the towing company charged $400 for the tow and first day. Then it's $100 per day. So it cost me more to get the trailer back, so they don't put a lean on my house, than what the trailer even cost me, to begin with.
The pin is in case someone forgets to lock the lock onto the bar. Safety first
Safety always!
Heh. All Paclock products on Amazon are "Currently Unavailable" as of checking today. I doubt it's because they're sold out either. Not sure why.
Dump Amazon has had a brain fart, and we're pushing everyday for them to fix their error. But it.... just.... takes.... time.... ug.
@@paclockpres.9805 Dumb question but since you're here, when I'm comparing the various locks applicable to a travel trailer like the ball latch, the receiver pin, and the cabinet locks for hatches, I see both a traditional product and a UCS product. Are the UCS replacement cores themselves rekeyable, and what's the difference in sizes between the keys of the two systems?
@@TWX1138 The keys are slightly different - the "traditional product" having a slightly larger key. But the real difference between UCS and what we call our "SR Series" (TL, 90A, 100, etc.) lies in the design of the lock and the cylinder. The "SR Series" was originally built to be a direct replacement for American Lock padlocks, but when we had the opportunity to launch our products into Home Depot, we built the UCS version, which is really going to revolutionize how traditional padlocks are bought and used. Not only are our cylinders eons above comparable padlocks like ML/AL, but every UCS lock is designed and machined with extreme tolerances to all have interchangeable cylinders that are easy enough to where the average user could re-pin their own lock. That means every single UCS PACLOCK can use the same key and you can re-pin whenever you need to - let's say an employee walked off with a key. That's the basic difference between UCS and SR, but there's also a myriad of other things like all stainless steel pins and all brass, stainless, and aluminum components in UCS PACLOCKs that really make it a premium product.
single format Interchangeable core, sans a control, Is there room in the lock body for a control retention bar?
Not really. But the intent with our "UCS" system is to make it so that we bring easy-rekeying into the retail world directly. If we incorporated a control bar, then there'd need to be a control key. And if there were a control key, then we just couldn't see a smart way to prevent people from running around and simply pulling out the cores and opening the locks. We'd need to offer lots of different control keys, and that would get really confusing fast. Does this make sense?
@@paclockpres.9805 zactley,, sfic it's debatable whether it decreases or improves security. certainly easier to rekey then having to pull a screw. 10 seconds vs.10 minuets. don't get me wrong it is a nice design. The question is could you use a cylinder that had a control bar, would it fit, most sfic cores have the mounting screw available.
@@chasingcapsaicin Our cylinders just don't have the room... they're essentially the same size as a Master/American which is about 20% smaller than a typical SFIC...
@@chasingcapsaicin Totally with you on having to pull a core from a door knob and it taking way longer than if it has an SFIC. But on a padlock, it's probably more like 30 seconds versus 10 seconds (pop the padlock, remove the screw). When the day comes to where we are manufacturing door hardware, we might have to figure something out to make that easy as well! Not sure which mounting screw you're thinking of on an SFIC core... the two holes in the rear allow for the rotational forks to engage with the core. You have me curious!
So which variant for trailers with the kingpin system? Those really tend to be valuable...
For the kingpin, we likely need to produce something totally different. This is more for the standard trailer hitch ~ and we will get to producing a product to lock up the kingpin...
How did you manage to get the botched gutting fixed? Rapping the lock to knock The driver pin back up?
Nothing so elegant. I dremeled it open to see what went wrong, threw the debris in the trash, and started up with a fresh core to show the 'right" way to gut the darn things. The idea being: Learn from MY mistakes. 😋
The only reason i dont have a receiver on my truck is because i dont have a great lock to go with it.
the "7th" pin you felt was the holding pin. I can see that the slot hole extends into the keyway part of the lock. You should have felt that the holding pin was completely solid and wasn't springy however, when counting the pins.
Made in the USA 😊
Beware! Some of the harbor freight padlocks have this core retention system. It's not fun to fix....
Wow
This does not compare to the disaster I had trying to put my 72/40 back together again. It went sideways because I didn't have a follower. And the actuator on the core wasn't very suitable to guide the driver pins back in. I had shredded springs faster than it would have taken to buy the proper tools.