One of the most important things I've learned from your channel is ---- If you can't do a NPR repair, then only buy oem or high quality parts..... Ivan, I salute you....
Kudos to the shop owner for putting ego aside and calling in help when he knew he needed it, not all mechanics would have done that. Some decent mechanics out there who aren't necessarily "next level" electrical diagnoticians - a wise man knows where he stands and when to ask for help. I say this assuming some previous shop had installed the junk parts.
Thats my shop. Im just starting to learn this stuff. I had my Autel for a week at this point. The parts were brought to me from the owner. I learned a very valuable lesson on aftermarket parts that day. Previous shops gutted the cats put on new exhaust that was leaking replaced all the o2 sensors. Plugs and coils. Fuel pump and injectors. They told me $2000 so far and its not fixed. This is not the first time Ive got a car from another shop that was messed up and the parts cannon was fired at it. Im learning and ran into this same situation a few weeks later. $1000 in repairs and it was still not fixed. 45 min later I had figured it out. I dont know how these places stay in bussiness. O yea I do they dont fix stuff and still get paid. I will call Ivan again if it gets out of my control. I want stuff fixed right on customers stuff.
@@bryansnewandused was a pleasure to work with you Bryan and diagnose the Captiva! Isn't it ironic that the same people who can pay $2000 in unneeded repairs say they can't afford an OEM sensor because it's too expensive? I don't get it 🤔
@@bryansnewandused They stay on the business because nobody can not say directly how bad is their business. For people I have only 1 suggestion, use only 1 repair shop and only 1 mechanic. That way you can blame only 1 shop and 1 mechanic if something is f-up.
Two of the most important sensors: MAF and Oxygen sensor should always be a quality part. This isn’t a blenddoor where there is room for cheap parts. Great video.
Lol Ivan , the face he made when you first said " yup we're already done, it needs an upstream sensor lmaooo" he gave you a look like he just saw a ghost lol he was thinking "no way, that's it, that's what I'm paying for? This guy is either a genius or a freaking idiot " , then he realized that Ivan is a Genius!!! Great job ivan!!!! Once again!
It's common for folks to overlook the "NEW" part (assuming it's good), and carry on with a scorched Earth parts replacement fiasco. Good thing this guy had enough sense to call PHAD before burning the town.
We had a 2007 Saturn VUE, same car as this. Went to have a wheel bearing replaced and my mechanic called and said I needed to see something on the car. I went there and he showed me the whole subframe on both sides by the rear doors was almost gone from rust. Have that guy check his frame.
A couple years ago, guided by a $25 OBD2 reader, I replaced the upstream and downstream O2 sensors in my 04 Canyon with a $30 set from Rock Auto (that's $30 for the pair, not each). The check engine light stayed off long enough for me to believe the sensors were ok. Then the CEL started coming on with various codes mostly indicating lean condition / vacuum leak. The issue was resolved by replacing the cheap O2 sensors with OEM. I've taken your advice and also from Eric O to never use Chinesium parts again.
I only buy OEM parts for GM & yet they are still from China. Hopefully they are made to GM standards. Seems all parts these days are from somewhere else but USA. Part of the Global Platform. Just changed a sensor in the transfer case motor on my GMC. Bought AC Delco. Part & it was from Germany. You never know anymore where the part comes from including the dealer. Guy at the Chevy Dealer told me they rip off the label when it mentions China
Another four banger being rescued ! I did notice the coolant temps were around 172 to 180...seems its running cooler than it should be? BTW, 6 shops worth tells you a whole lot about how incapable auto shops are. Not to mention using crap aftermarket parts for sensitive sensors. It's just about as bad and trying to find a good body shop that will restore your car back to the state it was in prior to a collision...not an easy task.
Agree modern engines run in low 200s for emissions reasons. Had a new thermostat/housing replaced in May on my car he used aftermarket. Was like thermostat stuck open , would not warm up , esp. in cold weather. Focus T-stat supposed to open @ 197F ! Car was like 170F. I bought the Ford T-stat and he did a no-charge replacement , and NOW it warms up and runs low 200s like it should. My degas bottle is like 21PSI for a reason. Low-speed fans come on at 233 , and like 242 hi-speed. That is NORMAL. I figure I was wasting gas/running rich all those months. NEVER AFTERMARKET !
It's really hard to find collision repair parts that are any good. Chinese headlights and tail lights are especially poor quality and typically on older cars new OEM lights are not available
@@BigEightiesNewWave We had a Ford Thermostat installed in my fiancé's son's 2008 Ford Focus and we are still occasionally getting a code for low coolant temps. Not sure if the Thermostat is bad or there is a wiring/connector problem.
Put in CRAP parts , get CRAP results ! " But I found this online real cheap " ! How about I found a OEM , Denso , Bosch , etc. at a good price and it fixed the car ? And how much did those OTHER parts and labor cost ? Great diagnosis .
Went to the pick and pull to get a MAF, knock sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. I would rather gamble on 30 year old parts than Chinese. Denso off of Ebay can be fake. I really enjoy your videos , thanks.
Ivan, I predict someday soon you will be the most successful auto tech in the Northeast. Your fixes are on-point and reliable and you charge fairly. Word will get out and you will be able to write your own ticket.
Ivan, I'm surprised you didn't remove the sensor, disassemble it, solder it back together, then reinstall it for the fix! Ha! That being said, it's really nice to see high end diagnostic equipment in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. Thank you once again for this informative video. Thanks for Sharing!
Another great diagnosis Ivan! Highly agree on getting either original parts or quality OE replacement parts specially on electric/electronic components. I've noticed that there are instances wherein these quality OE replacement manufacturers are the ones contracted by vehicle manufacturers to produce these parts and put on their brand. I think the best way to hand back the vehicle to the owner is to explain that since low quality parts had been installed by other shops, that there is a possibility that another problem may arise soon. Thanks again for taking us along. Cheers!
Those wires that are broken inside of the jacket will get you everytime. Glad you were able to catch that. Nice visit to Stoystown; Rt 30 through the Laurel Highlands is one of my favorite rides on my motorcycle.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I just got and topdon artidiag 800 BT it’s a mid level scanner with no bi directional or coding But it does have live data It’s amazing how much you can watch with the live data And how much you can figure out from it.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics To correctly interpret live data, you need to know how the whole system works; IN DETAIL. As you prove in many videos. At the dealers there are few people who understand how cars work.
This is really not a difficult diagnosis to make , just patience , basic knowledge and basic testing , I believe that flat rate is the obstacle for accurate diagnostics , too many techs want to make hours and if they can't reproduce the problem right away they simply guess or take the hour and move on , add cheap parts to the mix and the customer looses big time.
Luckily it was an easy diag for Ivan. Playing parts darts with no name crap to fix a problem usually creates more issues. Then multiply that by bouncing shop to shop and not knowing what has or hasn't been done makes the original repair extremely expensive. The best part of this particular video was the experience Bryan had with Ivan.
I don’t understand why you haven’t got more subscribers, but to be fair I’ve never heard you ask for like/subscriber button requests. You deserve a lot more subscribers than you have. So anyone who reads this who isn’t subscribed, then do!
We all love you IVAN, thanks for the quick and dirty video, straight and to the point with a little operational theory such as the 1.2V bias info, great video. This I believe is what viewers are looking for these days. Of course you do not know all the shops that this car has been to but the shop you are at now, does he have a good scan tool and scope if that would have been part of the diagnosis? In your experience in your neck of the woods, what percentage of shops do not have good test equipment AND what percentage may not be properly trained in diagnosing with their test equipment if they in fact have the equipment please?
hey Ivan you make it look easy unfortunately a lot of guys make it hard by buying aftermarket electronics there are alot of hacks out there even in the dealers a friend of my who is a better than average macanical became a certified tech for a dealer threw 8 hrs of video supplied by them then you add in flat rate you and eric will be busy until you can't hang on to a wrench any more.
I had a 2016 ford something with a draw issue and a o2 heater code. I told the shop it would be separate charges if they're not related. The draw was coming from the bluetooth module (had green crusties took 3 hrs to find). On the test drive after repair I told the owner unfortunately I'll have to charge for the o2 heater code diag but most of the time it's the sensor. I cant say for certain without testing. He refused the diag and it wasn't the sensor, lol go figure. I go back 2 days later and with experience and a good eye I noticed right away it flagged the heater code only when it was shifted in gear. So thankfully it was a quick diag because of that attention to detail. If you hooked up a test light you wouldnt of caught it. I hooked up the scope and when it went in gear you seen the split second drop out. So with heater directionally controlled scope rolling I start wiggling the wire and ofcourse its broke by the computer. I had no change at all until about 6 inches from the pcm. It always seem like its the last place you have to check. To be honest I would of called a sensor if he didn't already replace it. I would of hooked up a 1 amp test light directionally controlled the heater. Then I might of looked around the harness with a quick wiggle and called the o2. The crazy part is nothing was damaged or rubbed threw. It looked like a problem from the factory. I really like the shop owner and everytime I go down there he tells me about a diag he did not remembering I was the one that did it. I dont have the heart to correct him. I just say "man that's one for the book". I have a book I keep certain diags in so I can refresh if stumped.
Expensive Mercedes and Volvo O2 sensors are just rebranded Bosch, so save yourself some money. Could have been corrosion on the connector and replacing it just scraped some off. That's why when changing coils and sensors I always clean my connections with CRC QD first.
Guess I should add to always disconnect the battery first before cleaning contacts. There could be live data wires and you really don't want to short something out inside the ECU! I think "check your connections first" should be some kind of rule tho. You'd be surprised how many times I've fixed computer problems just by changing out a cable, which probably could also have been cleaned with QD. Even slight differences in the alloys will cause contacts to corrode.
No cat = no point for O2 sensors too. Only realistic option is to tell to the computer there is no anymore cat and map it out. Only it is massive thing to do...
Ivan, great video !!…just got done diagnosing my 2001 Corvette with a stuck lean bank 1 upstream and rich downstream…bias voltage good when I disconnected the sensor but did wiggle test from connector to PCM…classic bad sensor…total fuel trims were 77% !!…changed all 4 sensors with Delphi sensors from Rock Auto …both upstreams now stuck lean…sent all 4 back and went to NAPA and got some Bosch sensors…went through 3 sets of bad upstreams !!!…decided on Denso and car runs great !!…going to contact Bosch and see what the heck is going on with their sensors !!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics YOU BET !!…I have used Bosch on other cars but not on my 01 which had the original AC Delco sensors installed…my local dealer said the downstreams were $115.00 a piece…Denso is it !!
Another reason to stay AWAY from the cheaper sensors. It can be hard if customer does not want to spring for the good stuff. In the end the cheaper solution cost what, triple? Heck, with the new part and diag time, way more! Let this be a lesson or warrning to all of us!
@@mph5896 Most shops will give you 2 options. If it’s a Dodge dealer, either Mopar or whatever after market they use. Maybe NAPA for example. But I agree, as a shop you should stick with the good parts you know. Saves all sorts of issues like this.
Nice that it's a simple fix. Kind of bizarre how the IAT and the ECT had a 30 degree temperature difference before startup. Had it been sitting all night?
Should'nt of needed 6 shops for the issue. Kudos to Ivan. But Brian needs a wake up call. Hope he refunded all the money for the plugs and coils. This was an EZ diagnosis.
Here we call these a Craptiva, this is why GM failed, complete junk. But love is in the eye of the beholder. Thanks for a great diagnosis, as always you treat each car as if it was just as valuable as the next. Good advice, and for helping us working people keep on working. Thank you for your content.
I seen can see a potential problem in the diagnostic technique here, by the other mechanic. I looks like he was rolling into the pedal really hard, and getting good amount of momentum going before getting to the hill. While this is a good approach when your driving old trucks or a vehicle that you know has a problem. Not as great of a technique when trying to correctly replicate the way the owner/user likely drives it. Lets face it modern vehicles that are maintained often don't have power issues, or problems moving a appropriate load. So rolling into it at the posted speed limit and letting the engine bog some. Would of probably recreated the problem quicker. Since the engine is likely going to do a bit more rocking as it tries to respond to the need for increased power output. Food for thought, as I am sure there are a number of other people out there watching this information, to be more effective at troubleshooting problems quickly.
HAHA mystery MAF, good quality replacement parts make all the difference! Ivan thanks for sharing. If you are ever in Cleveland area LMK. Are you headed to Vision? This year?
Had check engine light after engine replacement on 05 town and country. Try a bunch of o2 sensors but couldnt get the ce light off. Finally got a Denso from the dealer and never had another problem.
I rebuilt a jeep 4.0 motor, it ran a little rough and I’ve had issue with oxygen sensor in my other car previously, I thought I’d replace it, I didn’t go with the most expensive and it ran like absolute garbage, I replaced it with a Bosch sensor, and it ran pretty good. Original rough running was NOT the O2 sensor. Mainly a guess and preventative maintenance, Jeep is dang near 30 years old
If the cat converter has been "holed" why doesn't the ECU signal that the down stream O2 reading is not to spec? Can the ECU detect if the cat converter is malfunctioning or missing as it is part of the overall engine control loop?
It will set a catalyst efficiency code since both sensors reading will be identical. The only purpose of the downstream sensor is to monitor the catalyst
had a car do the same thing and it turned out the battery was bad, it would start the car, but under a load, the alternator was trying to send too much amperage to the battery , which had a dead cell. this caused the ignition system to not get enough amps
4:40 MAP only went to 13.05 psi. Not really WOT? What altitude are you at? Dirty air filter? SHHH, the CAT May have had a meltdown. Good find with the wiggle test!
Vvti sensors? I had the same issue in my 14 Verano with 58k miles.it was stalling over extremely light load but bucking under heavy but not all the time sometimes 7 days went by before it did it again! Mechanic couldn’t repeat the issue but code was for cam shaft positioning sensors, he used all data and mechanic said he found 4K veranos with the same issues so he recommended to change those and it solved the problem! 2.4L non turbo eco tec
My 2004 Toyota Highlander has all it's original O2 sensors, so I know I'll probably have to replace some in the not too distant future, and they're not cheap, about $130 or more for an upstream depending on brand for a Bosch, Delphi or Denso. I can find garbage ones for a fraction of that price, but then at what future cost? I did recently replace the original alternator and while it seems silly to buy a good Denso one for a car with 400K on it, the extra cost for a good part means I know it's going to last the remaining life of the car. I know there are some good less expensive parts for some things, but it seems anything electrical or emissions related, if you don't buy the good brand, you basically get something that won't work.
We had a 2001 Rav4 with low mileage that had crazy issues - we initally thought trans problem due to the way it ran and shifted. Turns out it had el cheapo O2 sensors - installed OEM parts and boom - it ran and drove perfectly. That was a 4 cylinder and not only did it have DUAL sets of sensors (bank 1 and 2 on a 4 banger!) it used wideband sensors! IIRC it never threw O2 sensor codes but it ran and shifted like garbage. Car is still in the family after several years and running strong.
Been to 6 shops and this guy in 10 min diagnosed and fixed issue , definitely you were born for it .... A real pro 👌👌👌
Smh 6 shops 😒
He knows how to use the “scope”.
@@thewishmastur I will try to learn picoscope.😁
@@johntran1831 …haha
Is always best to replace sensors with OEM parts, avoid Chinese cheap parts...🤔
One of the most important things I've learned from your channel is ---- If you can't do a NPR repair, then only buy oem or high quality parts..... Ivan, I salute you....
This is the takeaway for sure 👍
NPR?
@@nickmalone3143 "No Parts Required" (not National Public Radio)
@@nickmalone3143 no parts replaced
There are parts better than OEM parts
Kudos to the shop owner for putting ego aside and calling in help when he knew he needed it, not all mechanics would have done that. Some decent mechanics out there who aren't necessarily "next level" electrical diagnoticians - a wise man knows where he stands and when to ask for help. I say this assuming some previous shop had installed the junk parts.
He fired the parts cannon at it first though... coils and wires.
Thats my shop. Im just starting to learn this stuff. I had my Autel for a week at this point. The parts were brought to me from the owner. I learned a very valuable lesson on aftermarket parts that day. Previous shops gutted the cats put on new exhaust that was leaking replaced all the o2 sensors. Plugs and coils. Fuel pump and injectors. They told me $2000 so far and its not fixed. This is not the first time Ive got a car from another shop that was messed up and the parts cannon was fired at it. Im learning and ran into this same situation a few weeks later. $1000 in repairs and it was still not fixed. 45 min later I had figured it out. I dont know how these places stay in bussiness. O yea I do they dont fix stuff and still get paid. I will call Ivan again if it gets out of my control. I want stuff fixed right on customers stuff.
@@bryansnewandused was a pleasure to work with you Bryan and diagnose the Captiva! Isn't it ironic that the same people who can pay $2000 in unneeded repairs say they can't afford an OEM sensor because it's too expensive? I don't get it 🤔
@@bryansnewandused They stay on the business because nobody can not say directly how bad is their business. For people I have only 1 suggestion, use only 1 repair shop and only 1 mechanic. That way you can blame only 1 shop and 1 mechanic if something is f-up.
@@bryansnewandused , Awesome that you're learning this stuff! Hope to see you again in future videos!
Two of the most important sensors: MAF and Oxygen sensor should always be a quality part. This isn’t a blenddoor where there is room for cheap parts. Great video.
Agree with you completely. And yet people still think they can save a few bucks by buying cheap Chinese crap causing all kinds of weird problems.
Even the Blend Door Is not cheap if you have to pull the dash apart twice at 8-12 hour labor because it broke again prematurely
I miss read "blender" and I still agreed 100% 😄
And fuel pumps. Fuel pressures can vary wildly with some of that cheap stuff
@@pilskadden I did that with fuel injectors once when I was rebuilding my first motor. Let just say I got it right the second time
I was most impressed by the "is it low on coolant? I hear bubbling in the heater core." ALL of this guys sensors are running!
Lol Ivan , the face he made when you first said " yup we're already done, it needs an upstream sensor lmaooo" he gave you a look like he just saw a ghost lol he was thinking "no way, that's it, that's what I'm paying for? This guy is either a genius or a freaking idiot " , then he realized that Ivan is a Genius!!! Great job ivan!!!! Once again!
LMAO, I had the same thought. He face was like WTF, are you kidding me!
Was definitely cool to catch it on live data... Only happened once during the test drive!
It's common for folks to overlook the "NEW" part (assuming it's good), and carry on with a scorched Earth parts replacement fiasco. Good thing this guy had enough sense to call PHAD before burning the town.
This mechanic replaced the coils and plugs before calling Ivan. That must have cost the customer a pretty penny.
@@paulstaf I think the customer brought the parts... Probably the same AMRXUTS brand 🤣
We had a 2007 Saturn VUE, same car as this. Went to have a wheel bearing replaced and my mechanic called and said I needed to see something on the car. I went there and he showed me the whole subframe on both sides by the rear doors was almost gone from rust. Have that guy check his frame.
The Ivan master at work getting it done the correct way. Totally awesome.
Awesome. Quick and to the point. OEM or high quality sensor to the rescue. Thanks for sharing !
Ivan - your attention to detail is on another level - total respect for what you do.
Man! I hope I can someday reach this level of diagnosis capabilities.
A couple years ago, guided by a $25 OBD2 reader, I replaced the upstream and downstream O2 sensors in my 04 Canyon with a $30 set from Rock Auto (that's $30 for the pair, not each). The check engine light stayed off long enough for me to believe the sensors were ok. Then the CEL started coming on with various codes mostly indicating lean condition / vacuum leak. The issue was resolved by replacing the cheap O2 sensors with OEM. I've taken your advice and also from Eric O to never use Chinesium parts again.
Rock Auto sells both cheap and OEM quality parts.
I only buy OEM parts for GM & yet they are still from China. Hopefully they are made to GM standards. Seems all parts these days are from somewhere else but USA. Part of the Global Platform. Just changed a sensor in the transfer case motor on my GMC. Bought AC Delco. Part & it was from Germany. You never know anymore where the part comes from including the dealer. Guy at the Chevy Dealer told me they rip off the label when it mentions China
Another four banger being rescued ! I did notice the coolant temps were around 172 to 180...seems its running cooler than it should be?
BTW, 6 shops worth tells you a whole lot about how incapable auto shops are. Not to mention using crap aftermarket parts for sensitive sensors. It's just about as bad and trying to find a good body shop that will restore your car back to the state it was in prior to a collision...not an easy task.
Agree modern engines run in low 200s for emissions reasons.
Had a new thermostat/housing replaced in May on my car he used aftermarket. Was like thermostat stuck open , would not warm up , esp. in cold weather. Focus T-stat supposed to open @ 197F ! Car was like 170F.
I bought the Ford T-stat and he did a no-charge replacement , and NOW it warms up and runs low 200s like it should.
My degas bottle is like 21PSI for a reason. Low-speed fans come on at 233 , and like 242 hi-speed. That is NORMAL.
I figure I was wasting gas/running rich all those months. NEVER AFTERMARKET !
It's really hard to find collision repair parts that are any good. Chinese headlights and tail lights are especially poor quality and typically on older cars new OEM lights are not available
@@BigEightiesNewWave We had a Ford Thermostat installed in my fiancé's son's 2008 Ford Focus and we are still occasionally getting a code for low coolant temps. Not sure if the Thermostat is bad or there is a wiring/connector problem.
@@BigEightiesNewWave 195 to 210 I believe.
I hate to tell you, but the hospitals are the same way. Good luck finding a real Dr.
Again Ivan fixed it. My standard is; only OEM sensors connected to the ECM.That keep the system in Factory balance.
As i wait for a new video from Ivan, i go back to watch reruns 😊
Aftermarket adds faults, especially critical components. Got burned but learned from it.
We have those things down here in Australia though they glued Holden badges on ours. Amazing that one got so many miles on it.
I wish all mechanics had to be certified in diagnosing problems people like you Ivan are few and far between great video!!
Put in CRAP parts , get CRAP results ! " But I found this online real cheap " ! How about I found a OEM , Denso , Bosch , etc. at a good price and it fixed the car ? And how much did those OTHER parts and labor cost ? Great diagnosis .
It’s crazy. A high quality sensor would cost $40 shipped from online or prob $80 locally. 6 shops and bringing in an expert to diagnose cost $$$$$$$.
GIGO: garbage in, garbage out
Great job on the diagnosis as usual, Ivan, too bad they didn't take it to ya earlier.
Went to the pick and pull to get a MAF, knock sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. I would rather gamble on 30 year old parts than Chinese. Denso off of Ebay can be fake.
I really enjoy your videos , thanks.
Ivan, I predict someday soon you will be the most successful auto tech in the Northeast. Your fixes are on-point and reliable and you charge fairly. Word will get out and you will be able to write your own ticket.
Ivan, I'm surprised you didn't remove the sensor, disassemble it, solder it back together, then reinstall it for the fix! Ha! That being said, it's really nice to see high end diagnostic equipment in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. Thank you once again for this informative video. Thanks for Sharing!
That would cost way more than an OEM sensor 😅
It sure is satisfying to be able to recreate a problem on demand.
Another great diagnosis Ivan! Highly agree on getting either original parts or quality OE replacement parts specially on electric/electronic components. I've noticed that there are instances wherein these quality OE replacement manufacturers are the ones contracted by vehicle manufacturers to produce these parts and put on their brand. I think the best way to hand back the vehicle to the owner is to explain that since low quality parts had been installed by other shops, that there is a possibility that another problem may arise soon. Thanks again for taking us along. Cheers!
Just got my PHAD custom pressure Transducer, can't wait to try it out...thanks again Ivan!
Enjoy! 😁
I love mine! Been using it over a year now, or close to it! 💪🏻
I keep telling a young nephew to stick with Denso parts.
Those wires that are broken inside of the jacket will get you everytime. Glad you were able to catch that. Nice visit to Stoystown; Rt 30 through the Laurel Highlands is one of my favorite rides on my motorcycle.
Definitely, i love Rte 30 from Latrobe to Breezewood! Far better ride than the turnpike or rte 22!
The best show on TH-cam . . .
Thanks Ivan! Hauled Coal for many years and frequently run in your neck of the woods, traveling on I-99 to I-80 up to Hazleton.
It’s amazing what live data can do to help you find the problem.
I'm amazed at how live data is underrated in diagnostic efficiency...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I just got and topdon artidiag 800 BT it’s a mid level scanner with no bi directional or coding
But it does have live data
It’s amazing how much you can watch with the live data
And how much you can figure out from it.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics To correctly interpret live data, you need to know how the whole system works; IN DETAIL. As you prove in many videos.
At the dealers there are few people who understand how cars work.
This is really not a difficult diagnosis to make , just patience , basic knowledge and basic testing , I believe that flat rate is the obstacle for accurate diagnostics , too many techs want to make hours and if they can't reproduce the problem right away they simply guess or take the hour and move on , add cheap parts to the mix and the customer looses big time.
A very informative video for us shade tree mechanics.. Thanks Ivan... Keep up the Good Work!
You are on it Ivan! Can’t wait to see the next video!
LS swap would address the lack of power issue
Luckily it was an easy diag for Ivan. Playing parts darts with no name crap to fix a problem usually creates more issues. Then multiply that by bouncing shop to shop and not knowing what has or hasn't been done makes the original repair extremely expensive. The best part of this particular video was the experience Bryan had with Ivan.
Over here in Australia they're known as the 'Holden' Craptiva!
That, my friend, is a professional diagnosis. Thank you.
I don’t understand why you haven’t got more subscribers, but to be fair I’ve never heard you ask for like/subscriber button requests. You deserve a lot more subscribers than you have. So anyone who reads this who isn’t subscribed, then do!
If you follow Watch Wes Work...that's actually a "Crap"tiva
👍
We all love you IVAN, thanks for the quick and dirty video, straight and to the point with a little operational theory such as the 1.2V bias info, great video. This I believe is what viewers are looking for these days. Of course you do not know all the shops that this car has been to but the shop you are at now, does he have a good scan tool and scope if that would have been part of the diagnosis? In your experience in your neck of the woods, what percentage of shops do not have good test equipment AND what percentage may not be properly trained in diagnosing with their test equipment if they in fact have the equipment please?
hey Ivan you make it look easy unfortunately a lot of guys make it hard by buying aftermarket electronics there are alot of hacks out there even in the dealers a friend of my who is a better than average macanical became a certified tech for a dealer threw 8 hrs of video supplied by them then you add in flat rate you and eric will be busy until you can't hang on to a wrench any more.
Looks like you need some punctuation marks. Here you go: ....,,,,!!!???. No thanks needed.
I had a 2016 ford something with a draw issue and a o2 heater code. I told the shop it would be separate charges if they're not related. The draw was coming from the bluetooth module (had green crusties took 3 hrs to find). On the test drive after repair I told the owner unfortunately I'll have to charge for the o2 heater code diag but most of the time it's the sensor. I cant say for certain without testing. He refused the diag and it wasn't the sensor, lol go figure. I go back 2 days later and with experience and a good eye I noticed right away it flagged the heater code only when it was shifted in gear. So thankfully it was a quick diag because of that attention to detail. If you hooked up a test light you wouldnt of caught it. I hooked up the scope and when it went in gear you seen the split second drop out. So with heater directionally controlled scope rolling I start wiggling the wire and ofcourse its broke by the computer. I had no change at all until about 6 inches from the pcm. It always seem like its the last place you have to check. To be honest I would of called a sensor if he didn't already replace it. I would of hooked up a 1 amp test light directionally controlled the heater. Then I might of looked around the harness with a quick wiggle and called the o2. The crazy part is nothing was damaged or rubbed threw. It looked like a problem from the factory. I really like the shop owner and everytime I go down there he tells me about a diag he did not remembering I was the one that did it. I dont have the heart to correct him. I just say "man that's one for the book". I have a book I keep certain diags in so I can refresh if stumped.
I love a story with a happy ending!
From the beginning I guessed bad maf, still watching
In OZ the're known as a Holden Craptiva and for good reason...Easy fix this time...Well diagnosed.
I sure enjoy your approach to diagnostics. This was a good find.
Expensive Mercedes and Volvo O2 sensors are just rebranded Bosch, so save yourself some money. Could have been corrosion on the connector and replacing it just scraped some off. That's why when changing coils and sensors I always clean my connections with CRC QD first.
Guess I should add to always disconnect the battery first before cleaning contacts. There could be live data wires and you really don't want to short something out inside the ECU!
I think "check your connections first" should be some kind of rule tho. You'd be surprised how many times I've fixed computer problems just by changing out a cable, which probably could also have been cleaned with QD. Even slight differences in the alloys will cause contacts to corrode.
It's good to see that at least *some* of your diagnoses are sort of straightforward, and don't require outsmarting computers ;P
I was ready for something more drastic haha
That’s why I only use OEM sensors. You get what you pay for !
“We gotta wiggle the harness to diagnose…”
Eric O has left the chat.
Nice job as always
Nice work Ivan! Cheap parts are costing people like us lots of time, but luckily that means money if we do it right. ;)
Great video cool testing
Nice video. It shows that cheap sensors are a waste of time and money.
No cat = no point for O2 sensors too. Only realistic option is to tell to the computer there is no anymore cat and map it out. Only it is massive thing to do...
You make it look so easy! Love your videos thanks for uploading.
I love your work mate
Maybe the underlying fault is a bad motor mount: under load the engine moves enough to Stretch that pigtail
Harness is on the engine 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics guess I was deluding myself that just maybe an aftermarket part might not have been the while fault. Maybe next time 😉
Ivan, great video !!…just got done diagnosing my 2001 Corvette with a stuck lean bank 1 upstream and rich downstream…bias voltage good when I disconnected the sensor but did wiggle test from connector to PCM…classic bad sensor…total fuel trims were 77% !!…changed all 4 sensors with Delphi sensors from Rock Auto …both upstreams now stuck lean…sent all 4 back and went to NAPA and got some Bosch sensors…went through 3 sets of bad upstreams !!!…decided on Denso and car runs great !!…going to contact Bosch and see what the heck is going on with their sensors !!
Denso all the way!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics YOU BET !!…I have used Bosch on other cars but not on my 01 which had the original AC Delco sensors installed…my local dealer said the downstreams were $115.00 a piece…Denso is it !!
Once you own one you will feel like a *"Captive."*
Gotta love a quick one after the Lincoln
Another reason to stay AWAY from the cheaper sensors. It can be hard if customer does not want to spring for the good stuff. In the end the cheaper solution cost what, triple? Heck, with the new part and diag time, way more! Let this be a lesson or warrning to all of us!
As a shop you don’t give people the option for cheap parts. It gets rid of the penny pincher clients as well
@@mph5896 Most shops will give you 2 options. If it’s a Dodge dealer, either Mopar or whatever after market they use. Maybe NAPA for example. But I agree, as a shop you should stick with the good parts you know. Saves all sorts of issues like this.
@@mph5896: I AGREE.
Nice that it's a simple fix. Kind of bizarre how the IAT and the ECT had a 30 degree temperature difference before startup. Had it been sitting all night?
We had to back it out of the shop...
Should'nt of needed 6 shops for the issue. Kudos to Ivan. But Brian needs a wake up call. Hope he refunded all the money for the plugs and coils. This was an EZ diagnosis.
Here we call these a Craptiva, this is why GM failed, complete junk. But love is in the eye of the beholder. Thanks for a great diagnosis, as always you treat each car as if it was just as valuable as the next. Good advice, and for helping us working people keep on working. Thank you for your content.
Sweet !!! One of my favorite channels !!!
Can't skimp on O2 or A/F sensors. Thanks, Ivan.
Nice job
6 shops . The last one was tune up parts in an 02 sensor.
Can you do a video that reviews your diagnostic equipment? Probes, Computers, Applications etc.
How bad is that that 6 shops couldn't figure this out? I had the same thing with a Ford F-150
I seen can see a potential problem in the diagnostic technique here, by the other mechanic. I looks like he was rolling into the pedal really hard, and getting good amount of momentum going before getting to the hill. While this is a good approach when your driving old trucks or a vehicle that you know has a problem. Not as great of a technique when trying to correctly replicate the way the owner/user likely drives it. Lets face it modern vehicles that are maintained often don't have power issues, or problems moving a appropriate load. So rolling into it at the posted speed limit and letting the engine bog some. Would of probably recreated the problem quicker. Since the engine is likely going to do a bit more rocking as it tries to respond to the need for increased power output. Food for thought, as I am sure there are a number of other people out there watching this information, to be more effective at troubleshooting problems quickly.
Yes, particularly since the fuel control will go into open loop at wide open throttle.
Thank you for the excellent content.
Cool shortie.... POS cheap O sensors.
Good Diagnosis. Hope the new sensor fixes it.
Sure did 👍
HAHA mystery MAF, good quality replacement parts make all the difference! Ivan thanks for sharing. If you are ever in Cleveland area LMK. Are you headed to Vision? This year?
Another quality repair but only problem....no bonus footage😢😢😢
Don't be so greedy!
Had check engine light after engine replacement on 05 town and country. Try a bunch of o2 sensors but couldnt get the ce light off. Finally got a Denso from the dealer and never had another problem.
Quick one Ivan. Thanks!
It’s always best to stick with OEM parts ! When replacing. In Reality your not saving money using cheap parts .
"the most Chinese oxygen sensor I've ever seen" 🤣😂🤣😂
I call it like I see it 🤣
I rebuilt a jeep 4.0 motor, it ran a little rough and I’ve had issue with oxygen sensor in my other car previously, I thought I’d replace it, I didn’t go with the most expensive and it ran like absolute garbage, I replaced it with a Bosch sensor, and it ran pretty good. Original rough running was NOT the O2 sensor. Mainly a guess and preventative maintenance, Jeep is dang near 30 years old
Cheap part cost dearly. Imagine that!
That was Keith quick 😉😄!!!
If the cat is hollowed out how is the active downstream 02 not causing an inefficient catalytic code to be set?
excellent content
"Shop" in my experience, is an umbrella term...
Thank you very much for the information.
If the cat converter has been "holed" why doesn't the ECU signal that the down stream O2 reading is not to spec?
Can the ECU detect if the cat converter is malfunctioning or missing as it is part of the overall engine control loop?
It will set a catalyst efficiency code since both sensors reading will be identical. The only purpose of the downstream sensor is to monitor the catalyst
The downstream sensor might have been "defouled"
@@deerhunter8533 So if the cat isn't there, why didn't Ivan get a fault code?
@@tomgeorge3726 yeah it may be hacked with a defouler or RC circuit on the downstream sensor signal.
had a car do the same thing and it turned out the battery was bad, it would start the car, but under a load, the alternator was trying to send too much amperage to the battery , which had a dead cell. this caused the ignition system to not get enough amps
4:40 MAP only went to 13.05 psi. Not really WOT? What altitude are you at? Dirty air filter?
SHHH, the CAT May have had a meltdown.
Good find with the wiggle test!
Six shops couldn't diagnose a bad O2 sensor? Does not bode well for the future of modern car internal combustion engines
wonder who hollowed out the cat. that likely wasn't even bad 🤣
So so any times I read on auto groups, just get a $30 semsor from eBay or Amazon, why? Because Denso is $110+ good luck with the eBay one
Vvti sensors? I had the same issue in my 14 Verano with 58k miles.it was stalling over extremely light load but bucking under heavy but not all the time sometimes 7 days went by before it did it again!
Mechanic couldn’t repeat the issue but code was for cam shaft positioning sensors, he used all data and mechanic said he found 4K veranos with the same issues so he recommended to change those and it solved the problem!
2.4L non turbo eco tec
this guy is good
the "red flag" was already set, hearing multiple shops/hands and unknown parts. 😒
My 2004 Toyota Highlander has all it's original O2 sensors, so I know I'll probably have to replace some in the not too distant future, and they're not cheap, about $130 or more for an upstream depending on brand for a Bosch, Delphi or Denso. I can find garbage ones for a fraction of that price, but then at what future cost? I did recently replace the original alternator and while it seems silly to buy a good Denso one for a car with 400K on it, the extra cost for a good part means I know it's going to last the remaining life of the car. I know there are some good less expensive parts for some things, but it seems anything electrical or emissions related, if you don't buy the good brand, you basically get something that won't work.
400k? Nice!
We had a 2001 Rav4 with low mileage that had crazy issues - we initally thought trans problem due to the way it ran and shifted. Turns out it had el cheapo O2 sensors - installed OEM parts and boom - it ran and drove perfectly. That was a 4 cylinder and not only did it have DUAL sets of sensors (bank 1 and 2 on a 4 banger!) it used wideband sensors! IIRC it never threw O2 sensor codes but it ran and shifted like garbage. Car is still in the family after several years and running strong.
Guess the engine when it get torqued climbing a steel hill it yanks or stir the harness just enough to cause the issue.