Correct the Drainage Ep.27
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- More drainage work here: • Grading and Drainage
If you live in Southern Oregon and are looking for an excavation contractor, or someone to assist you with a drainage issue I can not recommend Brian Reynolds highly enough. You can get in touch with him through this link. essentialcraft...
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Thank you, be safe, and be grateful.
As a registered professional geotechnical engineer out east, I am consistently impressed with how many things this channel gets right. We use that "burrito" technique all the time to manage seeping groundwater, from small residential projects to rail yards and solar power substation pads.
yourcrazyuncledave do you instal the perforated pipes facing down or up? ( with the half of the pipe that has the holes and theough were the water sips in)
Holes face down is what I've always been told. It also acts as additional filtration this way because gravity is now your friend. Instead of sediment (that gets through the filter fabric or of it fails) falling into the pipe now it just washes down past the pipe to the bottom of the burrito. Anyone else have better info?
@@MandoFettOG always down. The water goes to the lowest point which is the bottom of the trench and seeps into the pipe and is evacuated through the smooth pipe as there is less resistance. This method is not trying to hope the water falls into the holes of the pipes but removes it from the guaranteed location.
as a commercial landscape site supervisor I have ripped out many of these burritos of fail. the pipes are always in pristine condition, almost like water can never get passed the 'filter' and in to the pipe.
mikeyjock
What made it fail and how to avoid that? Or shouldn’t one use that burrito at all. In that case, what do you recommend that does work well? Just curious. Tia!
This is not the sexy stuff most people want to see but, should. I wish ALL builders and developers put this much thought and care in water mitigation. Great video! Thanks
We believe the three most important things are drainage drainage drainage
The unfortunate thing is people fail to think about the longevity of things like the foundation, structure, and plumbing when building a home. They focus on things like finishes which are the easiest things to change in a home.
The thing that I really enjoy about your videos is that you're not just talking about what goes into building a house, you're talking about what goes into doing things right in general. These videos communicate a philosophy, and it's a good one.
You sir, is the Attenborough of construction documentary.
Haha! Yup!
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Kamari Terrell Instablaster ;)
@Muhammad Ivan thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Muhammad Ivan It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account!
You give an excellent explanation. I have over 40 years experience with drainage. I cannot tell the strength of the plastic pipe you are using but as I recall the light plastic pipes can not take any stone bigger than 3/4". It has to do with point loads against the plastic.
As a town engineer, I always used clean 3/8" pea stone because it is gentler on pipe, easier to install, and gives 90 to 95% standard proctor just by dropping it in the hole. I did the proctor tests myself. The trick with pipe is the bedding. If there are voids at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions it can cause pipe collapse. I felt that the slight extra cost of 3/8" pea stone was worth the extra peace of mind that it gave.
In the late 70s, I was an assistant in the soils lab at UCONN. We were studying the new filter fabrics(this is when they first came out). We found that some of the filter fabrics were too tight and did not allow even water to pass through. My boss came up with a quick and easy way to test filter fabrics for their ability to pass water. Just blow through it with your mouth. That simple test saved me and my towns a lot of problems. Good Luck, Rick
Has anyone ever done any tests to see whether the filter fabric will clog up from silt against the "outside" of the burrito? We did our drainage systems this way but didn't put in the cloth.Our solution was to put a 6" wide layer of 1" drain rock against the wall right to the surface (after hanging a plastic sheet against the foundation coating for the bottom 4 feet), put another layer of coarser rock from the excavation against the layer of drain rock and backfill against that. It's worked for 30 years so far.
@@billbryce2538 Yes. We tested about a dozen different fabrics. Found some good and some not. Since this was 40 years ago, the fabrics have changed a lot. The different layers of rock that you were talking about was what we used many years ago. We did sieve analysis (grain size classification of the soil) of the natural soil and the fill materials available. We would put a sand size compatible material against the natural soil and then a small gravel(compatible with the sand) against the sand and then a medium gravel against the small gravel. The pipe would be in the medium gravel. This was called a Terzaghi Reversed Filter. When I designed or installed curtain drains, I had the downstream end open to the air. The upstream end was plugged but easy to access so that it could be flushed out if necessary. All of this is very dependent on the natural material. Good Luck, Rick
Pea gravel dont lock togegher like crushed stone does it?
@@fayekephart848 It doesn't but, it does consolidate better. In a confined space, such as the trench it doesn't need to lock together anymore than it does. I installed miles of underdrain and the pea stone was a faster install, never had a pipe failure(over 30 years now), and no settling. Good Luck, Rick
I have the same worry of filter fabric being clogged. As there was the car oil filter analogy: I do replace/flush that filter yearly at least... ?
I just installed a 25’ French drain terminating in a 55 gal drum buried in a 5x5 hole dug to ground water. 5 yards of soil and 3 tons of aggregate. All dug and moved by hand. Man, it was hard work but I am proud of it. Keep up the great content and inspiring others to callous their hands and do some work!
done by hand. man hats off
We did a 250ft drain exactly the same way 25yrs ago and it hasn't settled one inch, thumbs up.
'' I'm only a carpenter'' he says and a genius. My vote for the smartest man on youtube.
Every time you release another video, I'm reminded of how thankful I am that I found your channel.
I used to work for Malcolm Drilling who drills a variety of sizes of foundation piles, lagging walls, and they also do dewatering wells. It was incredible to see how much water there would be coming out of those wells. My dad had to put in french drains behind his house due to all the water runoff from the green belt behind his house. This can be expensive, but totally worth it.
I'm only building myself a small post and beam wood and blacksmithing shop, not an entire house, but your willingness to share your vast knowledge, your enthusiasm for building, your openness have all been an inspiration to me. My dad was a home builder before we lost him when I was in jr. high. I like to think the things I glean from this series, I might have learned from him had things gone differently. From the bottom of my heart, thank you, sir.
I just love this series, I'm so excited to watch it. My fiance ordered me a hoodie that I will be wearing to my day job (concrete), and she said that I just seem so happy when i'm watching it. It's amazing and I love you guys, God Bless and thanks so much for doing this!
I could listen to this guy talk all day.
Best youtube channel around so glad is getting so popular keep up the great work
Everyone building a house should watch this full series before going ahead, it's great. I wish this had come out a year ago - you would of avoided me some headaches. Great videos
This channel is pure gold.
Enjoying every single video on it.
Wow.. it genuinely fills me with an enormous amount of joy to see just how rapidly the channel has grown. God has blessed you with an extensive depth of knowledge and what seems to be infinite wisdom, through all your years of hard work and the drive to do a task just a little bit better each time you do it..And now the time has come to bring that knowledge to the world! So glad, to have been fortunate enough to be along for the ride! Love you guys, and hope all is well!
This series is easily in my top 10 best youtube series ever. So much good info.
You can get crushed material that is also washed, which is technically the best for a french drain, but it is not necessary. As long as your supplier isn't sending you the dregs of their pile, the fines that get delivered to you are not enough to worry about.
A few years back I was working for a new home builder and we had a home site with an inexplicable spring that began flowing into our basement dig. I outlined a system to drain the water out before it ever got past the footers, but left that employer before the system was completed.
About a year and a half later, as an excavation contractor with my own company, that homeowner contacted me to come figure out why his finished basement had flooded. I went looking for the end of the drain system I had outlined but could not find it at all. turns out not only had someone moved the system from where I began it, they ultimately did not even hook up the drain they did install. The pipe just dead ended and had packed with dirt.
It took me days of T&E to get it all figured out and fixed. It kind of felt good to be involved in that lawsuit against the builder, which the homeowner easily won.
And by crushed we are actually meaning angular stone...like washed limestone without the fine screenings. It locks together and on install it is already at 95% compaction. Zero fine material because that would pack up and defeat the purpose of the permeability.
I am loving these longer 15 minute videos 👍
Well explained video.
As a restoration tech 80% of our work is flooded basements. Due to drainage issues. The biggest problem currently is old systems that new development has built around and the municipality has not improved yet. Or a landscape company fail to consider the neighbors around their jobsite and now have directed water towards a place that never was designed to handle that water.
Also a restoration tech, packing to leave for Tulsa now. I do large loss exclusively now but back when i was just a grunt we would do 300 houses on a storm trip and it was ALL from bad drainage blows my mind how little attention gets paid...but then again we wouldn't get paid what we do if it wasnt this way.
Had big water issues at my last place. Completely dug out around the house to expose poured basement walls, added an intricate French drain system and put in a second sump basin. $35k later all I got was a lot of drainage piping you couldn’t see, a retaining wall and (finally) a dry basement.
Definitely recommend addressing drainage BEFORE you build.
I'm so glad you dedicated a video to drainage. This is not given enough attention.
Certainly true! We had drainage (in our case, just the drainfield) issues at our last house, and we're having issues with it here too. Here, though, it's simply that there's not enough drainfield, as we did not consider the massive amount of output (3x what you use) from the RO system we set up with. Fortunately, we have plenty of land to work with, as we're in a 42 acre ranch now.
You are 100% correct to use a crushed aggregate for drainage purposes. Here in New Mexico we typically use a 1” plus sized aggregate for that application.
You carry yourself like a brother. From Australia I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to put this together. Wishing you more light, thanks again.
There's always something in every video that I pick up that builds on my knowledge base. Thank you!
Brilliant video. I've, among other trades, worked on the railways here in England, mostly London Underground, and worked on drainage as a pipelayer. What we did was use a shingle bed then add the pipe, we'd then cover the pipe with up to a foot of shingle then cover the shingle with the teram and finally on goes the rail ballast which is whacked down to level and then the shoulder of ballast added.
I've got a drainage problem in my garden of the house my wife and I just bought. Family and friends have been helping with the renovations and it's funny how everyone has had an idea of what to do with my drainage but won't listen to the guy who compared to them is a master. The father in law, who is a plumber, wanted to back fill the trench in with hard core and fence it off.
I had a French drain installed recently, and I am so glad I finally had it done! The west side of my house is no longer a muddy swamp after a storm.
Thanks Essential Craftsman for another great video.
The amount of planning and precautions taken on your end continue to impress me. I don't know much of anything when it comes to something like this, but I can say that I would love to own a house "built" by you. I have a feeling that most people who build houses don't put the time or attention into it that you are with this one. It's amazing to watch and thank you for making these videos!
What a fitting video to be posted todayof all days for me. We had a heavy storm cell camp out right over us and drop heavy rain and hail for a fairly long period. Toward the end of yhe storm I went to receive a package that had been deluvered and ended finding a 1/2" of water standing in an enclosed patio that had currently been using for storage. After moving the boxes, several of which were soaked through, I was able to vacuum up most of the water and find a piece of siding that had been cut out at some point was missing. Now to deal with the insurance.
One thing I noticed that you guys did and my dad did when he put his in, was putting the holes in the pipe facing down. I asked him why and he'd said that that if they were on the top the water would need to come all the way over the pipe before it started really being able to flow.
Small detail, and something you may not have thought about, but a homeowner putting one in could easily put it in upside down. I love your guys' channel and love learning more as well as revisiting some of the lessons from my childhood.
Thanks!
watching this channel reminds me of this old house, new yankee workshop, hometime,and the woodwrights shop. you are definitely on that tier with your knowledge and ability to convey the important details in whatever project you are working on. thanks.
Your 'french drain' design is exactly like the system our highway department required us to use with one exception, the drain rock required was pea gravel or 1/2" minus. I agree with your method....and the larger rock not requiring compaction.
You're doing an awesome job on the construction and with the videos. Thanks for letting me enjoy the work without having to do any of it!!!...lol....although I enjoyed doing it when I was healthy!
Great advice and it brings up a point that many people engaging in a new build or home addition should be aware of and that is that there is a seemingly disproportionate amount of time in the building process in which you will be be holding a shovel rather than a hammer, and rushing past the former to get to the latter is very ill advised. Thanks for your experienced words as usual.
Thanks Scott, this spec house series is gonna be great
Very nice comments on general drainage. That's a tough subject for most homeowners.
Amen to planning ahead on drainage! My house is high and dry but the ground has settled around the foundation and we don't have gutters yet. Water pools around the foundation in heavy rain and ruined a wood patio door already. Time to fix that stuff. Wish the builder had a head on his shoulders like EC!
A lot of good information for the person who wouldn't know. A common drain mistake is to use pea size wash gravel for all drain situations. What I would add in short talk is the more water you see the bigger gravel you should use. Larger gravel will have bigger void between them. Or more room for water. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for sharing the orchestration of so many moving parts!
As a non-professional of the trades, I am anxious and hesitant when undertaking many projects.
EC has opened my eyes and not only reaffirmed by initial thoughts, but have educated me in why some of my other thoughts do not work!
I know I am not the only newbie on this channel and I believe that we can all give a collective THANK YOU!
Appreciate the education.
Learning can be fun.
Keep up the good work.
You are awesome.
Always happy to see another episode, thank you for taking us on this amazing journey!
That building pad is looking great!!
I think you should just put up a live cam so we could watch all the time. Of course,that would probably result in me being fired for never showing up for work.
Excellent idea!
🤜🤛
Haha!
😂😂😂
So glad I’ve found this channel! I’ve watched every video you’ve put out and they’re always educational and consistent in quality of content. I’m a plumber myself, and I’m looking forward to seeing when your guys start roughing in this house. Keep up the good work.
Your timing is everything, I live in Florida and planning to build a car/shop on my property and wanted to be sure water will not be the problem.. Just like magic your video recommendations jumped out 😎.. Thank you for your advice... now I need to get some good ENG/ contractor to help me understand the challenges... did I mention that I live in the swamp land 😁.. lol... as always, thank you for sharing your knowledge with others 👏👏👏
@@JCWAS thank you, never thought about that 👍
Good advice! A lot of builders I've worked around skip this aspect of lot preparation.
I agree 100% with everything you say and your reasoning and planning will see you right in the long run it's great to see a video addressing these problems with ground water and how to deal with it like you say if you don't deal with it effectively in the early stage it might only be the one chance you have of doing the drainage job properly and further down the track the problem compounds so that the structure is threatened and affected by water generated issues that become expensive and even impossible to fix. I am a drainlayer in Wellington,New Zealand and down this end of the world we get more than our fair share of rainfall and ground water , I have seen these problems you have noted and believe me many sad people would have given a lot to have your sense inside their heads- all joking aside! Further to what you have outlined when I lay a drain for this purpose I upsize the pipe and fittings way above the minimum requirement so that a 100mm (4'') drain and fittings becomes a 300mm (12'') drain - that's big I know, next thing I would do is make the drain permanently accessible from the surface ie install inspection/ cleaning chambers at every change in direction especially where the drain passes under a concrete driveway or other structure so that access for keeping the drain cleaned of silt buildup can be done with ease on a regular basis at cheap cost with no expensive excavation, This can be carried out by high pressure water blasting and the drain can be camera inspected to check the drain for any problems etc using the permanently installed manholes/ inspection access points, Once the Basalt rock clogs up years and years later it would be time to replace the basalt rock, that is still a maintenance issue that would unfortunately never go away but drainage installation done to the code, stormwater/ ground water drainage properly done need never give the owner any financial headaches --ever,
I have been working on a foundation for a 4 piece 40ft high cube shipping container "cabin" and these have been a really cool thing to watch as im working on my own smaller version.
Start right.....Finish right. Nice work.
Beautiful view!! Can't wait till it's done
Yes water, huge issue. Especially with climate change creating rain events where rain is measured in feet, not inches! Thank you for sharing. We are starting our build in a few weeks- good time to go over the drainage plan. S
Just recently found your channel. Have really been enjoying it. Thanks for your efforts.
OH MAN. I'm watching this and going through a checklist of the mistakes my excavation contractor made. I'm not sure if any of my drainage system is done "right". I guess I'll find out when I move in. Thanks for making this and all of your videos. You've taught a lot of people, a lot of things.
A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... planning makes all the difference!! Great job!
Years ago I did a job for one of Intel's microchip reprocessing contractors. The building was massive, in excess of 75k sq ft. We had built a 19k sqft clean room inside the main building. And you would think, given that it was in Arizona, that the drainage would be less of an issue. But you would be wrong, LOL. After they moved in 16 million dollars worth of machinery, the floor began to seep water inside the clean room. The solution they came up with was to dig a ditch around two sides of the outer building, bury a French drain, and bury a 12 foot "retaining" wall going down to the drain, at a cost reaching millions. I don't know if they ever did it. But the point is that there are no buildings for which you do not have to seriously consider drainage. Drainage is as fundamental to shelter as it is a roof.
In our town, we like to slope the external surfaces towards the house, so we can keep an eye on the water that runs in. If it drains away, you never know how bad it was. This leads me to mention my favorite two words of home ownership: 1. sump pump. 2. backup sump pump.
Great information on the drain system.
Stay safe GOD Bless.
This series is just fantastic, thank you so much
Hey scott! Man I've been here since the early stages of this channel's immensely knowledgeable, and rapid growing voyage. I knew it wouldn't be long before god helped to bring your hard earned wisdom and infectious personality to now multitudes of people. I feel honored to have been here to absorb your wealth of knowledge and I sincerely hope that the young minds that are watching this, find it worth while to learn from and appreciate your teaching.. Thoughts and prayers from eastern kentucky!
Thank You Scott &'Son!!!
In Las Vegas, some of the streets ARE the drainage ditch. They were built where it was easy to build in washes that had already graded the land to make for an easy road bed. There are times when the rains come where several largish roads are managing the run off and preventing a flash flood.
One thing a lot of native Las Vegans look at is where they are in relation to those roads and pay attention to which ones are apparently at capacity when it rains..... No one wants to buy houses on the lower third, or half, of a drainage basin or watershed......
We used to use 2" drain rock, but that was in the yard, not in a driveway or anything like that. Love your channel
Around here we cannot discharge into the street. We even have to control run off into the street and if too much of your property is covered with impervious surfaces you have to build impoundmant so rainwater can perc into the ground. We are all wells here, either personal wells or city wells. Lots of concern over aquifer recharge.
Had I worked for a guy like this when I was a kid, I would still be in construction.
Ain't that the truth.
Just as any man, a structure - house - needs a wide brimmed hat and dry feet to endure the surrounding climate for as long as possible. Indeed one of the areas where failing to plan is planning to fail. Glad you took the time to make a point of it - thoroughly, as usual.
IMPORTANT ITEM NOT DISCUSSED.....the holes of the (french) drain pipe MUST be located on the underside of the pipe (facing down) in the trench to work effectively
I believe that was done already in another video but yea I get what you mean.
If the holes are on the bottom, then how does water travel along the pipe to the end?
Agree. I also set the drain pipe over a layer of rocks, so it gets involved by rocks, which are involved by fabric.
Colin Barnett my other comment...”water ALWAYS seeks level and takes the path of least resistance....if holes are on top of pipe water has to fill/raise that distance before draining, holes facing down gives easy path for flow....
Rodrigo Batschauer that is correct for the installation
Good to get the drainage done as early as possible as it keeps the site dryer and you make so much less of a mess of the ground during building, we always dig out the dirt around the structure for a minimum of 6' and put at least 9" depth of crushed stone around the whole thing to avoid having to work on dirt, most of the time you end up having a hard surface around most of the house anyway so you don't even have to dig it out again.
Under the driveway and within 5 feet of the house may be required to be sch 40. Check local codes. The rest can be sdr35. Lable up and holes down. Use long radius fittings. There are tables for sizing for rainwater. If you have strong downpours you may need larger than 4 inch. It depends on square footage of impermeable surface. In this case it is pretty much the whole lot.
Like that green twist tie on bucket pin!!
Looking forward to each episode. Thanks.
Scott your very wise .
It's interesting to note that French Drains were promoted and popularized in the 1800s by Henry Flagg French. We have used clay drain tiles for many years that were not perforated, but gapped slightly at the joints. The pipe that we use now is typically perforated all around the periphery, so orientation is not important. Rock drains have been used for hundreds of years (see The Curse of Oak Island TV show) with or without drain pipes. I often use Pea Gravel, but also use CA7 crushed stone, since I use CA7 as my clean rock layer under concrete slabs. We made the transition from sand to clean rock under slabs in the 1970s because the clean rock doesn't wick moisture through capillary action. Many of the field tiles in my area are laid directly in the soil with no rock. The permeability of the topsoil combined with the impermeability of the clay subsoil allows them to work. We often encounter old clay tiles while installing new plastic drains and they are often in good condition. I remember a pond that wouldn't hold water because we had failed to find all of the clay drain tiles that went through the excavation.
Brilliant, I wish more people watched this before purchasing a home, it makes a lot of sense. Still, staying high on the hill is going to protect you from the real headaches...there’s a reason why the wealthy have preferred to live on an elevation for the last 5k years, no disease, mosquitos, sewage problems, etc.
I wish i had gotten this education many years ago!
Construction work is truly an art when you think about it.
What you said at 11:40 can not be stressed enough, “PLAN CAREFULLY!” Not just for the drainage issues, but really all aspects of the project. And get as much good professional advice and input as you possibly can. You’ll thank yourself later.
🤜🤛
Excellent description of how the drain “burrito” is constructed.
The house I bought in March has no gutters. The rain run off in the front and back creates puddles that are troublesome. I’m considering doing this. In he back yard I might have to create a seep field. The front can go to the parkway. I was considering getting a couple wooden barrels to collect the water for gardening.
Over on the coast we use 3-inch minus washed river rock for French Drains but they were in ditch lines and were not driven over. Of course, if the ground is going to move, your French Drain is going to move also, destroying the French Drain no matter what type of rock you use.
Love this channel, love this build series
I am OBSESSED with preventing any water damage to my house. The exterior wood is always painted, gutters are in working order, the chimney is waterproofed, french drain installed, shingles intact. I'm always thinking about it. 😁
I live in south Alabama. We have a high water table here and fully enclosed basements are virtually unheard of. Pretty much all basements are open on one or more sides. I know a person who built a very nice house with a basement level that was open on one side and supposedly built with proper drainage. For whatever reason, that basement floods regularly and they can't use it so there's an entire level to their house that is wasted.
thanks
Loving this series.
Ha! You mentioned this on the last episode & guessed you'd put in a French Drain! Cool!
nice that your in an area that allows you to day light to the curb...
Very exciting to see the spec house videos starting back up! Also glad to see that you’re doing such a diligent job documenting the site prep as this is something that can hinder an otherwise amazing build!
I worked on a house in a development that sat on a saturated clay rich substrate (probably why the lot was developed for decades). I was with the painting company finishing the interior. We were tasked with "patching" some cracks in the ceiling before the folks moved in. I took one look and recognized that what was happening was a primary pillar in the middle of the open concept house was punching up as the perimeter walls sank into the clay. The house is still there, but I wonder how much movement was involved.
I'm convinced
to build in Arizona
according to the local plumbing inspector 3/4 drain rock gets to 90% compaction just by dropping it in the trench. supper nice stuff to use.
That's kind of a wives tale. It is more compacted than gravel and "fluffier" soils but the compaction usually isn't that high. There are lots of voids in 3/4" stone. An engineer should still test and design a proctor for the stone. Run a compactor over dropped stone and you will be surprised at how much it settles.
Great video's! Been viewing your channel for a while, and i have learned a lot from you. Thank you.
Loving the merch!
Never got the honor to leave the first comment before. Thank you for your great content
Very useful and informative video.
Great video Essential craftsman
Your outfits in the videos almost always make me want to move to Oregon. I want to wear a sweatshirt in the summer! But I've never built in such a wet climate. So thank you for showing all these drainage issues in the videos, it is probably one of your less glorious TH-cam productions, but a very important topic!
Have a good Father's Day.
I would put a layer of rock underneath the perforated tube (above filter fabric) in order to avoid the "saturated" filter fabric to block the drain holes.