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How we made this food plot - Our Food Plot Journey on the Proving Grounds 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2023
- Grant Woods explains the steps it took to make this food plot and how it's looking so far this year.
Wind Rows - www.growingdeer.tv/WindRows
Green Cover Summer Release - www.growingdeer.tv/summerrelease
Ward Labs - www.growingdeer.tv/wdlb
@GrowingDeerTV
#deerhunting #foodplots #deer
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Yes, spending time with GOD is so so beneficial and important ! GOD Bless !!!!!!!
I don't know about everyone else. I can't even afford a tractor to come out, let alone heavy equipment.😂
All I have is a 4 wheeler, backpack sprayer and shoulder slinger. It takes a while, but I get it done. I'm finding my own ways to get Dr. Grants methods. I've just about got it down. Thank you for all the advice.
Im in the same boat. No family farm, no heavy equipment, just a love for the hunt and trying to figure out how to manage weeds because theres not alot of info ive came across to start food ploting. Hoping to find ways myself to get something going on my 6 acres. Best of luck you this season 🤘
Lance - I started with 13 acres. That's one reason we often show how we use hand tools and I still use them every year!
Excellent, thanks Grant!
Dr. Woods, I hope this reaches you; As focused as you are on soil biome, I am surprised you haven't looked into a Johnson-Su compost amendment. The field trials have been astounding. It seems that when we have mechanical disturbance of the soil, it shifts from a predominantly fungal biome to a bacterial one. The Johnson-Su compost method is a fungal focused process that attempts to restore that balance. My favorite results from it are a farm in Australia that simply sprayed an extract in the furrow when they planted. After harvesting their small grains, a native grass that hadn't been documented in the entire 30 years they farmed that land sprouted along each furrow, at a density that made it seem like it was intentionally planted....
Johnson-Su is a great process for those that can do it!
My field was this exactly. I started with rye. Then buckwheat and wheat to get those roots and the soil loosened up. It sure has life now. Just need a drill.
Have summer plots growing. Being reminded of these frost dates for planting is helpful. I need to wait a little later to plant my fall forage blends. Average frost for my area is up to a week into November.
Great video! Great information!
Yep, first frost for the nearest national weather station in my area is November 7th... That puts Sept 8th as my starting planting date.
Amen brother
While the burn piles no doubt release nutrients, you could also be seeing the benefit of the charcoal leftover from the burning, which works to hold moisture and nutrients. With your work in fire, I would love to see a test of bio char/slash and char as opposed to burn and perhaps creating terra preta soil as the indigenous cultures of the amazon have done for their soils. I love all the experimentation that you do.
Biochar is good stuff
BioChar can work but we cover our piles with dirt - so the charcoal isn't a factor here.
Man I really appreciate how you really try to stay as till/fertilizer/herbacide free as possible. One note, for small kill plots you can totally fertilize with natural stuff too. There are plenty of liquid fertilizers that are totally chemical free.
Could you name a few, id like to try them?
@@dustybowhunterlook up garden like a Viking. He teaches you how to make your own. I sprayed the liquid chicken manure one last week and will check it this weekend!
There is truth to this. I deal with Northern Michigan Jack pine central. I'd call it a step above beach sand. I just planted my second fall blend. Decided to pull some of the milo to see. 1 inch of dark soil sticking to the roots. I shook it good too. Can definitely see its still lacking structure, and it's not quite to the chocolate cake color yet, but boy am I impressed with the progress made already.
Great work!
Dr. Woods, I am very fascinated with you video's. I started doing doing the regeneration of my soil here in the mountains of South Carolina. After watching more of you video's i have now expanded on it.
I have 60 acres of all hardwoods. Originally i didnt want to cut any trees, but my land is a oak dessert. I have a logging crew starting the cutting process. My question is what is your recommendation on the amount of trees to leave/acre?
As the cut i am expaning my food plots to 1-2 acre spots with chestnut trees making 2 rows down the middle. Do you think 6 spots are enough?
Last question i am going to frost plant in a few weeks should i only plant clover and chickory, or what else? I really dont want to plot all plots in this.
Thank you for any reply and God Bless You. Keep up the great work and info
I attended Clemson and used to hunt above Walhalla! To encourage native grasses and forbs to grow, they need at least 30% to 50% sunlight daily - so remove enough trees to open the forest canopy for 30 - 50% of the sun's light to reach the soil. How much food and cover to create depends on your objectives and the habitat on the neighboring properties. Chicory doesn't do well when planted using the frost seeding method. Many clovers work great with that method!
Dr.Woods I am thankful for your passion and your faith. Alot of your clips I never comment on but I appreciate all the time and efforts you put out there for guys like me to learn. This will be my first fall with the genesis drill. I planted the Summer blend this summer. Do i need to crimp after i drill the fall blend? The summer blend is about 3ft to 4ft and i am concerned its to thick to not crimp. Your thoughts?
Kelly - I drill through the summer crop to plant the fall forage. Drilling often knocks down about 1/2 of the forage which allows enough light for the fall crop to grow and leaves food to keep deer feeding there daily.
After applying herbicide, and allowing vegetation to die, a flail mower would evenly distribute the duff similar to a crimper. Right?
Why mow if using a herbicide? The vegetation will dry out and shrink - it won't provide much mulch. Mowing at that point seems to only serve to add compaction to the soil.
Have you completely moved away from Summer soybeans and then planting a fall/winter mix in the beans to drill beans through again next spring?
He has... His only mention of soybeans since switching from the "buffalo system" to "The Release process" has been in reference to a heavily weed pressured field. He mentioned recommending to the landowner using a round-up ready soybean and a couple gly applications to gain control of the weed pressure, and then fully adopting the high diversity rotation of "The Release Process".
I don't plant pure stands of beans and haven't in a few years. In many food plots, deer consume all the beans and only weeds grow. Beans are too expensive for a one month crop.
Im trying to build the soil in my small food plots and mainly trying to attract deer in the fall, I’ve tried to use the release process in the summer but the deer eat most of the young plants and my plot ends up turning into weeds. Is there any summer blend i could use that the deer wont eat but will also build my soil?
Dusty - Green Cover will have a new blend for just this mission next spring!
Dr. Grant, I'm creating the hidey hole for plots. I've weedeated the vegetation down, waited a week or so and herbicided the new growth. I plan to broadcast Green Cover hidey hole blend later August early September. My question is, do I need to fertilize this first crop? I live in west central Alabama.
Joseph - There will be a better kill if you spray first. Glyphosate works on leaf surface area. Once the weeds are cut, there's not much surface area for the herbicide to hit.
I believe Dr Grant covered that when he said that you may need to add 10-10-10 . Go to about the 9 minute mark and check it out. And as Dr Grant has stated the plants must be growing and have leaves to take in the herbicide. So let the weeds grow and spray them as late as you can before you need to plant.
Grant, why does tilling cause unwanted weeds but fire causes good native browse? Are there other methods besides fire that can stimulate the native seed bank and not the unwanted weeds?
Good question! Fire is usually used in native habitat. That soil hasn't been disturbed and there likely aren't many seeds from unwanted species.
Disking/tilling churns several inches of soil and has a much better chance of bring up seeds from species that are unwanted. Tilling also kills many of the beneficial species such as earthworms, microbes, etc.
I know discing is the old way of planting but can this process be done without a drill?
I use hand tools in every year in my smaller, hard to reach plots. I often use prescribed fire to remove weeds and create the seed bed.
What state is this plot in? Just curious because your frost date is before mine but I was thinking y'all were further down south than me. Great video
Southwest Missouri
@SpringfieldGuy ok I'm in north western Kentucky and 60 days back from my frost date is August 21st. I was thinking they was way down south in Mississippi or something. 😂
We are near Branson, Missouri
I would love to do my dove plots without tillage. Got any advice?
Mitchell - Doves love bare dirt so this process likely won't work well for dove fields.
What is the name of your new plot?
We currently call it Big Pond - but they may not stick.
Wish you would focus on small Hunting Club abilities. We can't spend the kind of money you have.
We have several videos on using hand tools that work anywhere!
@@GrowingDeerTV We have hand tools, tractors for the most part, ATV'S and other tools. The big thing is we don't have thousands of dollars to spend on a lot of the projects you show and for the most part, we don't own the land, we lease it. We need advice with these limitations considered. I'm talking about hundreds of hunting clubs and thousands of hunters. Your advice is very important to us!