I think it's important to keep in mind that this is a DIY project, not a commercial installation. For that reason, the specs required will not be similar, although the desired outcome is the same - to have a more silent environment for recording. Based on the DIY spec and professed results, I think this is a successful project. I had a similar experience when building my vocal booth. Being an experiment, there wasn't much planning and I just learned as I went along. Eventually it turned out exceptionally well for being improvised. I couldn't sell the design commercially, but it works fine for me. And that is the point here. It works well enough for sillennium, even though it may not be up to spec for a high end commercial studio.
What did you end up doing with your walls/windows for your studio? Does it help block out the low frequency sounds from outside the studio? Let's say someone blasting low bass sounds outside of it; would you be able to hear through it inside your studio?
So yes you could but that's because i didn't go as sound proof as you can due to cost etc. But i can say when thunderstorms come my room is the safest and many times you can't even hear the thunder
Was that a huge fail to have the 24" flex duct between the box and the output vent??!!! That means your baffle box is completely bypassed and all sound can leave through that metal elbow and flex duct at the vent! oops! Does this work? If it does work, imagine how much better it would have worked if that vent was built right into your box. Am I correct? I"m just a DIY guy trying to learn...
Baffle box needs to directly attached to the wall. Otherwise it’s basically obsolete. Rick Gervais goes over this in his book. Vent would need to be built into your box.
@@Duaneorriss Agree. Sillennium insists it helps but I swear it must be his imagination - or else it's only %25 as good as it should be, because ALL the sound can bypass the big baffle box and simply go through the 1-2" flex duct insulation. Poor guy made this big box but it fails because the sound leaks through that uninsulated sheetmetal grill box BYPASSING the box.
@@sillennium All good - helps to see others' success and failures to help one another learn. I made mine but not sure if they work yet lol. Of course, there's many strong or weak links in the chain of acoustic isolation so, we'll see.... not sure if the link works, or if you're interested lol, but, I designed a neck on my box to extend through my ceiling to hopefully avoid sound slipping through a thin metal vent box. th-cam.com/video/W6FeB1iG2UQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ksr4raaSW1uYfpI5 Hopefully you have more time for music production than I do these days as I'm mudding drywall right now ;/.
The amount of resistance in that amount of flex duct is insane. In addition, you NEVER put flex duct behind an inaccessible wall. It will bread down over time and be impossible to replace without a considerable amount of effort. You could have done metal ductwork with internally lined insulation. Any duct manufacturer could make it for you.
You missed the most important parts of building the HVAC silencer box. To achieve the desired insertion loss, you require a few things: - Abrupt direction changes (your flex duct prevented you from having this) - A gross impedance mismatch. This means having your cross sectional area change several times by doubling or halving. What you should have done in have your 6" 27.3 square inch duct enter the silencer box without any gradual adaptors, then have the cross sectional area of your box be twice that. So ~60 square inches. Throughout the box, this size should also change. Your flex duct prevented you from having this. - At least 3 baffles. You had this. - Duct liner. You should have 1" duct liner fastened to the inside of your box. Your flex duct prevented you from having this. - Your silencer box and really your entire duct system should provide you with an air velocity that is slower than 300 feet per minute if you want a good recording or listening environment. Your grille, register or diffuser should maintain that quiet operation by having an appropriate NC rating. By not increasing the size of your duct work exiting your silencer, you did not slow down your air velocity. - Your silencer box should be made out of material that has the equivalent surface density of the wall of which it is penetrating. Example: 2 layers of fire rated 5/8" drywall on your wall would require you to build your silencer box out of 1" MDF. This mass must be maintained THROUGH the wall penetration. Have a square or rectangular sleeve penetrate your wall and backer rod/caulk around it. This is the only way to prevent trashing the isolation of your wall. You did not maintain your mass and therefore your entire room system has the level of isolation provided only by the flex duct. Not good. - Every wall penetration requires a silencer box. So if you built an MSM system (a room in a room), you would need an outer leaf silencer, and an inner leaf silencer on both the supply and the return. That is a total of 4 silencer boxes per room. You only show one box for your supply. So either your room doesn't have a return, or else you have a big return hole in your wall which defeats the purpose of having silencers at all. Lastly, flex duct should only ever be used in short runs due to it's inherent friction loss. Furthermore, any time you use it, you should use oversized duct as it's internal cross sectional area is actually smaller than regular 6" duct. Thanks for sharing, but I hope people don't follow your directions step by step as there are a lot of flaws in the design.
Glas Audio you think it is flawed but it works perfectly for me. My wife can't hear me playing in the rest of the house through the duct work and i can't hear the air moving coming into the room. I would say success on my part for 40 bucks in materials
Glas Audio hey, thanks for the info, flew way over my head, any chance of a simplified explanation for someone learning as he goes.. or a video with some visual assistance ::)
There is a diminishing level of benefit here, as it relates to how much increase in sound elimination vs. air flow. How much better will the system work, in relation to how much more work, materials, and complication involved? There's a point where you say, "this meets my needs, and is fine". What is the point of spending a much higher material cost, a more complicated design, and much more time involved, all for perhaps for a negligible and imperceptible amount of 'improvement'? Some people really enjoy showing the world how much smarter they are, and over-complicating a simple system, THAT WORKS! Leave it alone. It's not broken, don't 'fix' it.
Hi Sillennium - this is a SUPPLY vent, if I understand correctly - do you have a return vent or any other vent in the space? I am under the impression that if a room is truly air tight (almost soundproof) then it needs an return/vented output besides just the supply fan constantly filling the space. Just trying to wrap my head around it! I have two supplies direct form my HVAC, through my baffle boxes - similar to yours - but realize I should have an output vent....
I do have one but it is right outside the studio door. It's in the ceiling so I didn't really have a good way to sound proof it so I kept it outside the room since the door is only shut when recording etc. 95% of the time it is open
@@sillennium my layout is very similar. Before I do drywall I’m considering adding an air exchange vent so if I do keep my studio door, shut for long period of time, an air exchange to my foyer area single return will pull it. my studio has two supplies, I put large DIY baffle boxes off the ceiling for those. Thanks for the video.
I think you could have ignored the tubes & turns inside the box & just simply had it insulated with rock-wool, but the outlet needs to be one size larger & possibly filtered with a 20x25x4 to keep any rock-wool out of the air. You want the sound waves smashing into each-other & the rock-fibers while at the same time slowing the air-speed to eliminate any air-moving sounds.
Great video. You mentioned in the beginning that silent ventilation can be purchased. Can you give us an example of one that can be purchased? Thanks again.
Nice! Thanks for sharing :). I had a few questions if you happen to have time to answer them. Is that the supply vent only? In other words, do you have another vent for the return, with another fan? If not, I'm not sure how one single tunnel could provide both supply and return. Also, do you think it matters in what room you place the fan where the air is supplied from, or is your air supplied from your house's vents? Trying to build a room within a room in a rented place so can't really tear down walls and such. Thank you for your time! Fantastic work.
When creating any sound-proof, booth, pod, room, etc. you essentially, completely seal all joints, gaps, etc. with acoustic tape, green caulk, etc. This creates a hermetically sealed space. You're pumping hot air into an air-tight pace; turning your room into an inflating, hot-air balloon. Are you separately venting out?
Thanks for sharing. We are in the process of designing our own sound proof studio and like your build will be DIY and completed with minimal budget to receive the desired results. There will also be a better and more expensive way of doing everything - just as long as it works for your needs. I might record the entire process, including the part of getting it past my wife hahaah
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Hey, amazing video. Just wondering, where does the other end go to? Do you just open a random spot above the basement and make a vent there? Do you need a filter system? Or just clean the vents every so often? Thank you so much for any response
Isnt not safe to have the open roxul exposed in the airflow and going out the vent or do you have some type of filter preventing the roxul from going airborn?
Excellent job. Have you or anyone else here used or considered using one of the commercial inline "mufflers"? Curious how they perform, and how to install. They look like a car muffler. I'm planning a drum room in my basement and have two vents off of the main trunk coming in the space to consider.
Chiran Kulasena sort of, I have an air return right outside the studio rooms door. I don't close the door unless I am recording otherwise I keep it open to keep the air moving. I just didn't have a great access to the air return on this side of the basement.
@@sillennium got you... yeah that should work. I am more concerned about when i am having few people in there for a session. I have a stairway just like that next my room. I might just think of putting a dampened return to it. Something i can completely seal off or open when i need.
Good video. I recently built a very similar system. Two things different: 1. I don't have heated air going through it. I find with all the insulation in the walls that heat is a problem. I just have air from the next room going through via a very quiet bathroom style fan. 2. I have another box on the other side of the room for air to escape. This one is unpowered and allows for flow through ventilation, even when recording.
It most likely cuts some air flow but it also supposed to catch the sounds too. Either way the room is always the right temp, but a lot of that is natural too since it is in the basement.
Your 6" ductwork is kinked causing backpressure to your HVAC unit. I assume you are creating a negative airflow setup? Better to use metal 180 degrees (U joints) at the ends to prevent blockage of airflow in your tubing. More effective. You can also make a fiberglass plenum. Buy the board at any HVAC supplier. It's yellow on one side (fiberglass side) and has metallic paper outside covering it. You cut the box pattern similar to a cereal box (but much bigger), use DUCT tape to tape it together and you have a plenum. Paint the fiberglass side with latex paint to prevent the glass fibers from entering your air space. Use rock wool and insulation spray foam in the can for sealing the tubing inside your plenum. The less 180's you have, the better the airflow and the less noise. Sharp corners create obstructional wind noise. Straighten out the tube for best results.
I don't see where his 6" is kinked. Im sure his 180's made with the 5" inside the box flow fine. Obviously less than no 180's, but I'm sure that metal u joints won't flow much better. Besides, you must seal the metal joints to prevent leakage.
When using recessed outlets etc. there is big holes in the drywall, if you have 10 outlets its adds up pretty big hole. If you use surface outlets you only have holes size of your cable which is easier to seal.
the silencers are not effective, because I used x2, two silencers, one at each mouth entrance and low from 77db to 69 db my rvk200 of 1080m3, some Spanish brand sonoconnect soundproof ducts lowered me to 70.5 db, using 70cm on each side, Well, the silenced duct has a value of 3.80 euros per meter, cheap but the silencer, the silencer duct in my case of 60cm and 200mm is worth 200mm is worth a minimum of 50 euros, for 60cm of silencer, which has 4cm of low absorbent material class, 25kg wool or other low density per kg per m2 and density at a thickness of 40 millimeters 4 cm of wool, the silencers are the biggest expense less performance, now disappointed with the result of the silencers that I buy confident in 20 to 28 Result db I will desistalare them and buy spending more than one for bad information and deception because they are useless, the change is noticeable 4%, a modern conduit of the latest design, it is French it is called phonic trap, I am sure that replacing my s traditional rock wool and aluminum sonoconnect ducts for this phonic fabric with cotton that is just as effective as wool plus the polyethylene layer will have better results than with silencers and the obsolete technology of traditional aluminum soundproof tubes plus rock wool plus aluminum Micro perforated, as I will trust the phonic trap brand, I found a virgin brand phonic trap from France that looks good, in my country Spain Madrid, we only have silencers that do not give good results and obsolete aluminum pipes plus rock wool Simple, thank God I found modern French ducts which I have not used or tested but I trust, my idea is to use my size of 20cm to which I am going to micro-perforate and the outer layer to add rock wool of construction of 40kg and 5cm more thick to add to the tube that thanks to the metal structures does not obstruct, then the 20cm tube has a total of 24 I stick 5cm good rock wool and have go 29cm I will add 1cm of acoustic membrane for low frequencies of 2mm and then a total of 30cm I will put another 31 cm conduit inside unmodified phonic trap, in plan an outer layer that protects, total a tube for a 200 extractor with a conduit of 315, but 115mm of absorbent layers
Silencers are not created equal. For instance, Sillennium box is weakened and only as strong as the flex duct between the box and the wall vent. Ideally, the box should be right up to the finish wall. The box up against a finish gypsum surface eliminates the need for non-acoustical flex duct. Let's be honest, insulated flex duct is not exactly sound proof, and sound will simply go around his baffle box. I"m no pro, just researching a LOT and looking for weak spots in other DIY designs in hopes I can make improvements. I have a studio build playlist but not a lot happening until I get these silencer/baffle boxes built.
I think it's important to keep in mind that this is a DIY project, not a commercial installation. For that reason, the specs required will not be similar, although the desired outcome is the same - to have a more silent environment for recording. Based on the DIY spec and professed results, I think this is a successful project.
I had a similar experience when building my vocal booth. Being an experiment, there wasn't much planning and I just learned as I went along. Eventually it turned out exceptionally well for being improvised. I couldn't sell the design commercially, but it works fine for me. And that is the point here. It works well enough for sillennium, even though it may not be up to spec for a high end commercial studio.
Thx for the comment
What did you end up doing with your walls/windows for your studio? Does it help block out the low frequency sounds from outside the studio? Let's say someone blasting low bass sounds outside of it; would you be able to hear through it inside your studio?
So yes you could but that's because i didn't go as sound proof as you can due to cost etc. But i can say when thunderstorms come my room is the safest and many times you can't even hear the thunder
It's very important that you can't hear your wife shout through the vents, top design.
That's true
@@sillennium is this also for small recording vocal booth?
It could be
Was that a huge fail to have the 24" flex duct between the box and the output vent??!!! That means your baffle box is completely bypassed and all sound can leave through that metal elbow and flex duct at the vent! oops! Does this work? If it does work, imagine how much better it would have worked if that vent was built right into your box. Am I correct? I"m just a DIY guy trying to learn...
It doesn't seem to be causing any issues. The flex was my only option and many said it cuts sound naturally
Baffle box needs to directly attached to the wall. Otherwise it’s basically obsolete. Rick Gervais goes over this in his book. Vent would need to be built into your box.
@@Duaneorriss Agree. Sillennium insists it helps but I swear it must be his imagination - or else it's only %25 as good as it should be, because ALL the sound can bypass the big baffle box and simply go through the 1-2" flex duct insulation. Poor guy made this big box but it fails because the sound leaks through that uninsulated sheetmetal grill box BYPASSING the box.
@GregoryGuay it works but hey build yours the way you want. Thx for watching and participating for over a year on this video
@@sillennium All good - helps to see others' success and failures to help one another learn. I made mine but not sure if they work yet lol. Of course, there's many strong or weak links in the chain of acoustic isolation so, we'll see.... not sure if the link works, or if you're interested lol, but, I designed a neck on my box to extend through my ceiling to hopefully avoid sound slipping through a thin metal vent box. th-cam.com/video/W6FeB1iG2UQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Ksr4raaSW1uYfpI5 Hopefully you have more time for music production than I do these days as I'm mudding drywall right now ;/.
The amount of resistance in that amount of flex duct is insane. In addition, you NEVER put flex duct behind an inaccessible wall. It will bread down over time and be impossible to replace without a considerable amount of effort. You could have done metal ductwork with internally lined insulation. Any duct manufacturer could make it for you.
Maybe I should have, but I did what I thought was best at the time.
You missed the most important parts of building the HVAC silencer box. To achieve the desired insertion loss, you require a few things:
- Abrupt direction changes (your flex duct prevented you from having this)
- A gross impedance mismatch. This means having your cross sectional area change several times by doubling or halving. What you should have done in have your 6" 27.3 square inch duct enter the silencer box without any gradual adaptors, then have the cross sectional area of your box be twice that. So ~60 square inches. Throughout the box, this size should also change. Your flex duct prevented you from having this.
- At least 3 baffles. You had this.
- Duct liner. You should have 1" duct liner fastened to the inside of your box. Your flex duct prevented you from having this.
- Your silencer box and really your entire duct system should provide you with an air velocity that is slower than 300 feet per minute if you want a good recording or listening environment. Your grille, register or diffuser should maintain that quiet operation by having an appropriate NC rating. By not increasing the size of your duct work exiting your silencer, you did not slow down your air velocity.
- Your silencer box should be made out of material that has the equivalent surface density of the wall of which it is penetrating. Example: 2 layers of fire rated 5/8" drywall on your wall would require you to build your silencer box out of 1" MDF. This mass must be maintained THROUGH the wall penetration. Have a square or rectangular sleeve penetrate your wall and backer rod/caulk around it. This is the only way to prevent trashing the isolation of your wall. You did not maintain your mass and therefore your entire room system has the level of isolation provided only by the flex duct. Not good.
- Every wall penetration requires a silencer box. So if you built an MSM system (a room in a room), you would need an outer leaf silencer, and an inner leaf silencer on both the supply and the return. That is a total of 4 silencer boxes per room. You only show one box for your supply. So either your room doesn't have a return, or else you have a big return hole in your wall which defeats the purpose of having silencers at all.
Lastly, flex duct should only ever be used in short runs due to it's inherent friction loss. Furthermore, any time you use it, you should use oversized duct as it's internal cross sectional area is actually smaller than regular 6" duct.
Thanks for sharing, but I hope people don't follow your directions step by step as there are a lot of flaws in the design.
Glas Audio you think it is flawed but it works perfectly for me. My wife can't hear me playing in the rest of the house through the duct work and i can't hear the air moving coming into the room. I would say success on my part for 40 bucks in materials
Glas Audio thank you for the comment and feedback. Hopefully someone will see it and take that into consideration
Glas Audio hey, thanks for the info, flew way over my head, any chance of a simplified explanation for someone learning as he goes.. or a video with some visual assistance ::)
Glas Audio Can you message me on Instagram @itsDBOB
There is a diminishing level of benefit here, as it relates to how much increase in sound elimination vs. air flow. How much better will the system work, in relation to how much more work, materials, and complication involved? There's a point where you say, "this meets my needs, and is fine". What is the point of spending a much higher material cost, a more complicated design, and much more time involved, all for perhaps for a negligible and imperceptible amount of 'improvement'? Some people really enjoy showing the world how much smarter they are, and over-complicating a simple system, THAT WORKS! Leave it alone. It's not broken, don't 'fix' it.
I'm building a similar room in my basement right now, this is basically the duct system I had planned in my head. Good job!
Helios good luck with your build
Hi Sillennium - this is a SUPPLY vent, if I understand correctly - do you have a return vent or any other vent in the space? I am under the impression that if a room is truly air tight (almost soundproof) then it needs an return/vented output besides just the supply fan constantly filling the space. Just trying to wrap my head around it! I have two supplies direct form my HVAC, through my baffle boxes - similar to yours - but realize I should have an output vent....
I do have one but it is right outside the studio door. It's in the ceiling so I didn't really have a good way to sound proof it so I kept it outside the room since the door is only shut when recording etc. 95% of the time it is open
@@sillennium my layout is very similar. Before I do drywall I’m considering adding an air exchange vent so if I do keep my studio door, shut for long period of time, an air exchange to my foyer area single return will pull it. my studio has two supplies, I put large DIY baffle boxes off the ceiling for those. Thanks for the video.
I think you could have ignored the tubes & turns inside the box & just simply had it insulated with rock-wool, but the outlet needs to be one size larger & possibly filtered with a 20x25x4 to keep any rock-wool out of the air. You want the sound waves smashing into each-other & the rock-fibers while at the same time slowing the air-speed to eliminate any air-moving sounds.
Very possibly. This is what I came up stuff hopefully it will inspire someone to improve on it
Awesome. I've been looking for a way cut down on the ventilation fan noise on a soundbooth I bought some years back.
Good luck on the build
Great video. You mentioned in the beginning that silent ventilation can be purchased. Can you give us an example of one that can be purchased? Thanks again.
I don't have any links at the moment
Nice! Thanks for sharing :). I had a few questions if you happen to have time to answer them. Is that the supply vent only? In other words, do you have another vent for the return, with another fan? If not, I'm not sure how one single tunnel could provide both supply and return. Also, do you think it matters in what room you place the fan where the air is supplied from, or is your air supplied from your house's vents? Trying to build a room within a room in a rented place so can't really tear down walls and such. Thank you for your time! Fantastic work.
The return is right outside my room. I leave the door open all the time except when I am recording. One vent can't do both.
That’s pretty much what I’m doing. I need to build my baffle box now…
When creating any sound-proof, booth, pod, room, etc. you essentially, completely seal all joints, gaps, etc. with acoustic tape, green caulk, etc. This creates a hermetically sealed space. You're pumping hot air into an air-tight pace; turning your room into an inflating, hot-air balloon. Are you separately venting out?
so you need two sound mazes?
Yes
Thanks for sharing. We are in the process of designing our own sound proof studio and like your build will be DIY and completed with minimal budget to receive the desired results.
There will also be a better and more expensive way of doing everything - just as long as it works for your needs.
I might record the entire process, including the part of getting it past my wife hahaah
Have fun with your build
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
How did your Battlebox construction go? I’m looking for some similar ideas and hopefully learn from others.
Awesome. Question, what type of gan fan did you use to blow the air through ? You only showing the duct. Thanks
No special fan, just the air from the furnace/ blower
What do you do for dehumidifier in your basement? I’m thinking if I can stick mine in a box like this to help with making it quieter
I don't have one, which i should
Do you also have a duct getting air out of your room? Awesome work
Yes right outside the entrance to the room. It is the air return for the entire basement
Might be a lame question, does it pumps air inward or it is exhaust fan to throw out air, or it can do both?
This one only goes one way
So how are you soundproofing the ventilation return?
It is directly out side the room so that is how i am. Plus it runs through the rafters so that helps absorb too
I dig it. Thanks for the post.
You are welcome, hope it helps
Excellent example of why radiant floor heat would work better than ducted.
I bet this cost about $200 versus radiant floor heat could be $1000
@@edgarjhernandez651 and well worth it.
Great point!
And what about cooling?
Hey, amazing video. Just wondering, where does the other end go to? Do you just open a random spot above the basement and make a vent there? Do you need a filter system? Or just clean the vents every so often? Thank you so much for any response
No filters, but it goes to a vent i cut out in the wall and the other end attaches to the air system
Very helpful. thank you.
You are welcome
So does the central heat air come from the same vent? If so would it melt the soundproof foam?
It's rockwool, it doesn't burn
@@sillennium Is this rockwool expensive? Im trying to make the sound from my vent dampen some ... it's like a damn megaphone
@@julial3758 its about 55 usd per bag.
Which ac you use?
What do you mean? Brand of my air conditioning?
Isnt not safe to have the open roxul exposed in the airflow and going out the vent or do you have some type of filter preventing the roxul from going airborn?
None of the roxul is in direct contact with the air flow. It is all contained
Excellent job. Have you or anyone else here used or considered using one of the commercial inline "mufflers"? Curious how they perform, and how to install. They look like a car muffler. I'm planning a drum room in my basement and have two vents off of the main trunk coming in the space to consider.
I have not tried them but I bet they work great, just a bit more pricey
Nice work. Thinking about building a drum room myself. How about the air leaving the room? Have you planned any circulation?
Chiran Kulasena sort of, I have an air return right outside the studio rooms door. I don't close the door unless I am recording otherwise I keep it open to keep the air moving. I just didn't have a great access to the air return on this side of the basement.
@@sillennium got you... yeah that should work. I am more concerned about when i am having few people in there for a session. I have a stairway just like that next my room. I might just think of putting a dampened return to it. Something i can completely seal off or open when i need.
Chiran Kulasena i have seen folks put in audio foam onside of a mich larger vent. Like a muffler and it works well for the air leaving the room
@@sillennium cool... i will keep that in mind. Thanks and good luck with your project!
Good video. I recently built a very similar system. Two things different:
1. I don't have heated air going through it. I find with all the insulation in the walls that heat is a problem. I just have air from the next room going through via a very quiet bathroom style fan.
2. I have another box on the other side of the room for air to escape. This one is unpowered and allows for flow through ventilation, even when recording.
I wonder what this snake is doing to the air flow pressure? I assume it’s creating more turbulence and back pressure.
It most likely cuts some air flow but it also supposed to catch the sounds too. Either way the room is always the right temp, but a lot of that is natural too since it is in the basement.
Your 6" ductwork is kinked causing backpressure to your HVAC unit. I assume you are creating a negative airflow setup? Better to use metal 180 degrees (U joints) at the ends to prevent blockage of airflow in your tubing. More effective. You can also make a fiberglass plenum. Buy the board at any HVAC supplier. It's yellow on one side (fiberglass side) and has metallic paper outside covering it. You cut the box pattern similar to a cereal box (but much bigger), use DUCT tape to tape it together and you have a plenum. Paint the fiberglass side with latex paint to prevent the glass fibers from entering your air space. Use rock wool and insulation spray foam in the can for sealing the tubing inside your plenum. The less 180's you have, the better the airflow and the less noise. Sharp corners create obstructional wind noise. Straighten out the tube for best results.
Thanks for the thoughtful reply!
I don't see where his 6" is kinked. Im sure his 180's made with the 5" inside the box flow fine. Obviously less than no 180's, but I'm sure that metal u joints won't flow much better. Besides, you must seal the metal joints to prevent leakage.
Dont use recessed outlets...
Please explain your reason for others that may see this
When using recessed outlets etc. there is big holes in the drywall, if you have 10 outlets its adds up pretty big hole. If you use surface outlets you only have holes size of your cable which is easier to seal.
And i ment electrical outlets in booth walls 😀
He used putty pads on the boxes, and if you seal around the opening, what's the difference? The putty will have a better stc rating than the drywall.
Yeah that's the purpose of the putty
get rid of that stamp face grill better option is b ar type grill much better flow less noise factor
they also make silent flex instead of plastic inside its cloth
Do you mean bar grill?
that 20 dollars in plywood will now cost you about 200
True its crazy what lumber costs now.
the silencers are not effective, because I used x2, two silencers, one at each mouth entrance and low from 77db to 69 db my rvk200 of 1080m3, some Spanish brand sonoconnect soundproof ducts lowered me to 70.5 db, using 70cm on each side, Well, the silenced duct has a value of 3.80 euros per meter, cheap but the silencer, the silencer duct in my case of 60cm and 200mm is worth 200mm is worth a minimum of 50 euros, for 60cm of silencer, which has 4cm of low absorbent material class, 25kg wool or other low density per kg per m2 and density at a thickness of 40 millimeters 4 cm of wool, the silencers are the biggest expense less performance, now disappointed with the result of the silencers that I buy confident in 20 to 28 Result db I will desistalare them and buy spending more than one for bad information and deception because they are useless, the change is noticeable 4%, a modern conduit of the latest design, it is French it is called phonic trap, I am sure that replacing my s traditional rock wool and aluminum sonoconnect ducts for this phonic fabric with cotton that is just as effective as wool plus the polyethylene layer will have better results than with silencers and the obsolete technology of traditional aluminum soundproof tubes plus rock wool plus aluminum Micro perforated, as I will trust the phonic trap brand, I found a virgin brand phonic trap from France that looks good, in my country Spain Madrid, we only have silencers that do not give good results and obsolete aluminum pipes plus rock wool Simple, thank God I found modern French ducts which I have not used or tested but I trust, my idea is to use my size of 20cm to which I am going to micro-perforate and the outer layer to add rock wool of construction of 40kg and 5cm more thick to add to the tube that thanks to the metal structures does not obstruct, then the 20cm tube has a total of 24 I stick 5cm good rock wool and have go 29cm I will add 1cm of acoustic membrane for low frequencies of 2mm and then a total of 30cm I will put another 31 cm conduit inside unmodified phonic trap, in plan an outer layer that protects, total a tube for a 200 extractor with a conduit of 315, but 115mm of absorbent layers
Thx for your comment
Silencers are not created equal. For instance, Sillennium box is weakened and only as strong as the flex duct between the box and the wall vent. Ideally, the box should be right up to the finish wall. The box up against a finish gypsum surface eliminates the need for non-acoustical flex duct. Let's be honest, insulated flex duct is not exactly sound proof, and sound will simply go around his baffle box. I"m no pro, just researching a LOT and looking for weak spots in other DIY designs in hopes I can make improvements. I have a studio build playlist but not a lot happening until I get these silencer/baffle boxes built.
Was
Who
Building A Silent Air Vent.
Starts with VERY LOUD DRUMS AND ELECTRIC GUITAR... *facepalm*
Ok
$20,000 sound room for a $20 guitarist?
Jk
What exactly do you mean by that
that background music is trash. couldn't even watch. thumbs down.
Glad you enjoyed it