Great video. You are such a wealth of information. Thanks to Jongsoo Kim's question, and the answer you gave Torbjorn Ahman. Please keep up the videos, awesome.
Great video! One question: Do you harden/temper it? I've used an old hatchet head but the heat of the metal tempers my steel. Can you prevent this? Or don't you have to harden it.
+knives&stuff Thanks. No, I leave it as forged for two reasons. 1. You protect your hammers. A bad blow hitting the edge does not leave a mark on the hammer, and the edge is easy to dress with a file or grinder. 2. Cutting deep in hot material will ruin any hardening anyway. Heating steel and forging it, makes is soft and you will need to re-harden and temper if that's what you want. A hardy cutoff for cutting cold material is another story, it needs to be hard.
Is it a black smithing thing not to use an electrical saw rather than with the hardy on the anvil? I know very little of black smith work but I figure there is a reason other than "just because it's the thing to do" so I'm curious.
When you cut to center you get a slight cone shaped end which sometimes is desirable, but the main reason is that the work is hot! For sawing you need to either quench it or let it cool (which can take a pretty long time). Tool steel can't be quenched, it needs to be annealed (soft) to be machined, so hot cutting is pretty efficient after all.
One of the many ways we get to the finish line is by the shortest path. The more tools that we use means a more cluttered workspace. When we can find the fewest proceedures and tools to get a task done, we implement that. Its called "economy of motion". We take great pride in being able to do many things with one tool whenever possible. Ultimately its the paying customer who appreciates fair pricing as a result of our professionalism. A young strong man will be outproduced by a wise old veteran at the end of the day.
For this one I use O1 steel. H13 would be better but much harder to forge and handle. Car axle would work fine. As long as you cut hot any tougher steel would work I think.
Just , into blacksmithing. Does a power hammer hit as hard as I can (or harder), or is the purpose to save time or energy? Would it take longer to make this tool, for example, without one? Thanks!
+ianman6 A small power hammer may not hit harder but it does not get tired :) A power hammer is mostly used for repetitive hard work and when you use tools and need a mechanical "striker". With a good hammer you have control and precision and save both arm and time.
I really should make a hot cutter like that because I keep running around the shop to get the hacksaw. So here's a question, did you use something else than mild steel for this? And is it hardened and tempered or is it just fine without any of that fancy stuff?
EddvT Yes, I used O1. Perhaps not the ideal steel for this but it seems to work fine. I think you can use any medium carbon steel like 1045,4140 or 4340. Go for something cheap like car axle steel. I use mine as forged for two reasons. 1) If you damage the edge it's easy to file or grind a new one. 2) The tool is not hard enough to leave nasty marks on your hammer if you have a bad blow. It will work fine, just keep your work hot, no cold cutting.
Ok, thank you. I'll keep my eye out for some pieces of that in a big enough size, most pieces of steel I find around my place are too small for this kind of project.
Those power hammers look like a dangerous piece of kit if you have a slip-up. I know they're essential in some ways but they still seem dangerous. Particularly when you were knocking the corners off the taper. Would it not have been safer to dress these with a normal hammer on the anvil? I'm mainly a welder/fabricator myself but I have made a small coal forge a couple of years ago, have two anvils (I've had one of them for 29 years) and various other tooling. I've enjoyed doing some amateur smithing, mainly artistry work. I can't have a power-hammer (noise for neighbours, foundations of shop) so I get by the old way - just hand hammers and anvil, vice, etc. Anyway, great channel and videos. I didn't mean to be negative, just some observations. Thanks for all the uploads and advice.
+Finarfin Thanks! You are right, a power hammer can be dangerous, and should always be treated with respect. Bad decisions can lead to ruined work or worse, an accident. Good to hear you're doing a bit of forging!
HolyCrapAA Tack! Nja, inte för ögonblicket tror jag. Jag kan varmt rekommendera Gränsfors yxor tex. denna - www.gransforsbruk.com/produkter/skogsyxor/gransfors-liten-skogsyxa/
How do you make the taper do that the hardy doesn't get stuck in the hardy hole? I made a hardy and it got stuck and I had to bang on it sot much that it broke. Also it only fit one way, it wouldn't fit if I turned it any of the other ways. Is this from my tapering, hardy hole, or is it normal? What makes the brazeal hot cut not damage the hardy hole but others do? Thanks so much and sorry for all the questions.
+Matt Behnke Really? Sounds like your hardy hole is a bit off in some way. The taper should be well defined and only grip on the top edge of the anvil. If the hole is tapered for some reason and you "match" that form you might be in trouble. There has been quite a debate regarding the tapered shank on this type of cutoff hardy. I like when it "locks in" with the anvil and doesn't move, and I don't see how it can break our anvil in any way. If you have a soft anvil you might do better with a traditional style with a big nice shoulder.
Ok thanks. I got a fisher anvil so I think it should hold up. I will try again but I think the problem might have been is that my old hardy was made from an old masonry chisel, and the top part was smaller than the rest of the the shank so that may have been why it was getting stuck. The new one I started maybe I tapered wrong and that is why it fits better one way than the others, thanks so much for the help. Also how do you know how large steel to use for the hardy? Thanks so much for your time and great videos!
+Matt Behnke If you start with round stock, in the neighborhood of the diagonal of your hardy hole so the largest part actually resides above the hole.
i am going to try making a tool like this but the only problem is that i am using a chunk of railroad a an anvil so i dont hawe a hardy hole. do you think that i can make something that coud fit in my bench wise?
That's scale, basically iron oxide(rust). As you heat the iron, it bonds with the oxygen of the air, creating iron oxide, which then falls off during hammer impacts.
FYORRG Sort of...the entirely natural state of iron would be ore...:) And it isn't that. But, since all iron naturally tend toward becoming iron oxide, I suppose you could say that, yes.
***** There is also a some carbon content in there. In my metallurgy class, our final was to forge our own cold chisel and center punch, the guy I held the torch for while he held his blank wound up getting too close to the rosebud, and carbon began to precipitate out. The instructor cussed me out and said I was attempting to tank his tool. Stuck with me ever since.
Tjena Tobbe, hur hårda bör hammare och andra smidesverktyg vara? Jag har funderat en hel del på bl.a hot cuts och andra verktyg som används inom smidet, har nämligen lärt mig att härdat stål kan "explodera" om det är lite för hårt.
Victor Lindgren Hej. Jadu, det beror på. Jag är ingen expert och det finns nog många olika "skolor". Många av verktygen behöver inte vara härdade alls, tex. hot cuts/avskrot - du förlorar ganska snabbt någon härdning ändå när det värms upp, dessutom är det bra om det inte är hårdare än hammaren tex. så att du gör märken i den vid en snedträff. Lätt att fila/slipa ny egg. Hammare bör nog heller inte vara för hårda (härdade dock) så att de i sin tur inte gör märken i städet. Städet är dyrast :) ... Härdat stål kan "expoldera", det är därför man aldrig använder ett stål direkt efter härdning. Man anlöper alltid så att det får tillbaka en viss mjukhet. Alla verktyg för kall-bearbetning måste vara härdade och relativt hårda.
There are two reasons. 1. The taper makes it "lock in" with the anvil and you don't get that bounce or rattle of a loose tool + better rebound. 2. The curved edge makes less contact with the work and cuts better.
Peter Sjökvist Nä, bäst är att inte härda. Är den för hård riskerar man att göra märken i hammaren vid snedträff. Dessutom förlorar den lätt härdning ändå när man hugger större saker. Du menar min nya lufthammre? Kan bara säga att den var dyr... är inte klar med fundament så jag har inte testkört ännu. Finns ju nya Anyang att handla men då får du räkna med en bit över 100.000kr i samma storlek. :(
hadi Nope. I use it normalized only. That makes it easy to resharpen and you don't risk damaging your hammer badly with a bad blow. It should be used with hot material...
Oh, there are several different types or patterns of hammers. French,German,Swedish,Japanese etc. etc. all with different properties regarding weight distribution and function. I think you have to research that yourself or try them out!
***** Do you mean the power hammer flatter? Flat on one side and half round on the other. To forge a tapered shape under parallel dies you need some sort of tool. This is a pretty common type of tool, but the design varies.
Allen VDJ For this one I used O1 steel. Maybe not ideal, but seems to hold up very good. I think any medium-high carbon steel would work fine. I use mine as forged (normalized), so it's not super hard.
I don't harden my hot cuts for two reasons. It is meant to cut hot and does not require the hardness, and cutting larger pieces you would most likely heat the tool and ruin any hardening anyway. But most importantly I want the hot cut to be softer than my hammer, so that with a bad hit you don't mess up your hammer face. The edge of the hot cut is easy to dress if necessary.
Wubbly Bubbly When an end is folding over itself, it forms something similar to the shape of a fish mouth... It's hard to correct so better try avoiding that.
Torbjörn, I can simply not get enough of watching your videos. I crave knowledge! Please teach me more.
Good work man. We always have time to oil our joints with food and rest. Same goes with the time to oiling the joints of the power tools.
Really great craftsmanship on that piece!
That was beautifully done. A joy to watch. More videos Torbjorn...MORE!!
Chestnut Forge Thank you! Will do...
Great video. You are such a wealth of information. Thanks to Jongsoo Kim's question, and the answer you gave Torbjorn Ahman. Please keep up the videos, awesome.
I enjoy watching your videos. Thank you for making them.
Very well done , respect from italy
I love seeing someone put serious effort into making a nice video. You have Wonderful series of vids!
Good videos, great metal work! Keep making more.
Thank you for sharing this video! Forge On!
Nicely done, thank you for sharing
Great videos! love to watch you work, you make everything looks so easy.
Love Brian's hammer skills.With tooling I rate you as the "Master Builder".I would rather your typt of tooling style.
Thanks you " Master Builder "
You make beautiful tools. I wish I lived near you so I could apprentice under you.
Im not a smith but i like to wach these video's
BTW this guy is a graphic designer and 3D graphics technician with over twenty years of experience. He owns his own graphic design firm.
i love that anvil
Как сказала незабываемая Фаина Раневская: КРАСОТА - СТРАШНАЯ СИЛА
👍
Beatifuld Work!! I'm Brasilien.
Very nice. Thank you for making this video.Frank B
4:33 the irony of making a tool with the same tool
Es como usar internet explorer para descargar Chrome
This guy is at the top
Love your videos
Нравится ваше отношение к любимому хобби и работе.
0:00 and a legend was forged
Muy buenos tus vídeos excelentes trabajos
love your work
Great video! One question: Do you harden/temper it? I've used an old hatchet head but the heat of the metal tempers my steel. Can you prevent this? Or don't you have to harden it.
+knives&stuff Thanks. No, I leave it as forged for two reasons. 1. You protect your hammers. A bad blow hitting the edge does not leave a mark on the hammer, and the edge is easy to dress with a file or grinder. 2. Cutting deep in hot material will ruin any hardening anyway.
Heating steel and forging it, makes is soft and you will need to re-harden and temper if that's what you want.
A hardy cutoff for cutting cold material is another story, it needs to be hard.
+Torbjörn Åhman My question as well. Thanks for explaining thoroughly.
Is it a black smithing thing not to use an electrical saw rather than with the hardy on the anvil? I know very little of black smith work but I figure there is a reason other than "just because it's the thing to do" so I'm curious.
When you cut to center you get a slight cone shaped end which sometimes is desirable, but the main reason is that the work is hot! For sawing you need to either quench it or let it cool (which can take a pretty long time). Tool steel can't be quenched, it needs to be annealed (soft) to be machined, so hot cutting is pretty efficient after all.
Ahhh okay that makes sense. Thanks, man. Love watching you're work.
One of the many ways we get to the finish line is by the shortest path. The more tools that we use means a more cluttered workspace. When we can find the fewest proceedures and tools to get a task done, we implement that. Its called "economy of motion". We take great pride in being able to do many things with one tool whenever possible. Ultimately its the paying customer who appreciates fair pricing as a result of our professionalism. A young strong man will be outproduced by a wise old veteran at the end of the day.
What a great video.
love watching these videos awesome !!!!
Thanks
very nice job.
Very helpfull video...
You use H13 steel for the hardy cutter; do you think I could use steel from car wheel axle ?
Thanks
For this one I use O1 steel. H13 would be better but much harder to forge and handle. Car axle would work fine. As long as you cut hot any tougher steel would work I think.
Thanks !!!Michel
Just , into blacksmithing. Does a power hammer hit as hard as I can (or harder), or is the purpose to save time or energy? Would it take longer to make this tool, for example, without one? Thanks!
+ianman6 A small power hammer may not hit harder but it does not get tired :) A power hammer is mostly used for repetitive hard work and when you use tools and need a mechanical "striker". With a good hammer you have control and precision and save both arm and time.
Torbjörn Åhman Thanks! I'll see if I can't make one to start ;)
Thanks for the great videos. what steel do you prefer for these types of Hardie tools?
+Alice B Something that is a bit tough. I have used O1, but I bet 4140 or any medium carbon steel works just fine.
Nice Job - thanks
I really should make a hot cutter like that because I keep running around the shop to get the hacksaw.
So here's a question, did you use something else than mild steel for this? And is it hardened and tempered or is it just fine without any of that fancy stuff?
EddvT Yes, I used O1. Perhaps not the ideal steel for this but it seems to work fine. I think you can use any medium carbon steel like 1045,4140 or 4340. Go for something cheap like car axle steel. I use mine as forged for two reasons. 1) If you damage the edge it's easy to file or grind a new one. 2) The tool is not hard enough to leave nasty marks on your hammer if you have a bad blow. It will work fine, just keep your work hot, no cold cutting.
Ok, thank you. I'll keep my eye out for some pieces of that in a big enough size, most pieces of steel I find around my place are too small for this kind of project.
I liked this vid thanks for sharing
🇧🇷 Você e o melhor 👍😎
Maybe a stupid question but is there any trick to keeping the cut straight and not spiraling when you cut off the excess material at ~4:20?
Jonathan Sterling Not really. Try and keep the work perpendicular to the hot cut all the time.
I alway watch your vídeos.
Thanks!
Du beau travail comme d'habitude.
P,S: ça y est je m'abonne à ta chaine.
Very nice
Those power hammers look like a dangerous piece of kit if you have a slip-up. I know they're essential in some ways but they still seem dangerous. Particularly when you were knocking the corners off the taper. Would it not have been safer to dress these with a normal hammer on the anvil?
I'm mainly a welder/fabricator myself but I have made a small coal forge a couple of years ago, have two anvils (I've had one of them for 29 years) and various other tooling. I've enjoyed doing some amateur smithing, mainly artistry work. I can't have a power-hammer (noise for neighbours, foundations of shop) so I get by the old way - just hand hammers and anvil, vice, etc.
Anyway, great channel and videos. I didn't mean to be negative, just some observations. Thanks for all the uploads and advice.
+Finarfin Thanks! You are right, a power hammer can be dangerous, and should always be treated with respect. Bad decisions can lead to ruined work or worse, an accident. Good to hear you're doing a bit of forging!
Thanks a lot and for the prompt reply. Best wishes for the New Year.
Nice work!
Tar du beställningar?
Skulle behöva en fin smärt liten yxa för trädgårdsarbete, typ mindre träd och sådant. Intressant?
HolyCrapAA Tack! Nja, inte för ögonblicket tror jag. Jag kan varmt rekommendera Gränsfors yxor tex. denna - www.gransforsbruk.com/produkter/skogsyxor/gransfors-liten-skogsyxa/
What kind of wax do you put on that makes the hot cut look black. Do you use that for hammers and tongs too? Thanks and I love the videos!
+Matt Behnke I usually use some linseed oil only.
How do you make the taper do that the hardy doesn't get stuck in the hardy hole? I made a hardy and it got stuck and I had to bang on it sot much that it broke. Also it only fit one way, it wouldn't fit if I turned it any of the other ways. Is this from my tapering, hardy hole, or is it normal? What makes the brazeal hot cut not damage the hardy hole but others do? Thanks so much and sorry for all the questions.
+Matt Behnke Really? Sounds like your hardy hole is a bit off in some way. The taper should be well defined and only grip on the top edge of the anvil. If the hole is tapered for some reason and you "match" that form you might be in trouble. There has been quite a debate regarding the tapered shank on this type of cutoff hardy. I like when it "locks in" with the anvil and doesn't move, and I don't see how it can break our anvil in any way. If you have a soft anvil you might do better with a traditional style with a big nice shoulder.
Ok thanks. I got a fisher anvil so I think it should hold up. I will try again but I think the problem might have been is that my old hardy was made from an old masonry chisel, and the top part was smaller than the rest of the the shank so that may have been why it was getting stuck. The new one I started maybe I tapered wrong and that is why it fits better one way than the others, thanks so much for the help. Also how do you know how large steel to use for the hardy?
Thanks so much for your time and great videos!
+Matt Behnke If you start with round stock, in the neighborhood of the diagonal of your hardy hole so the largest part actually resides above the hole.
Lovely job as usual. Is that just mild steel you use for this?
No, it's O1 steel.
Ok
Ok thanks.
i am going to try making a tool like this but the only problem is that i am using a chunk of railroad a an anvil so i dont hawe a hardy hole. do you think that i can make something that coud fit in my bench wise?
Elliot gubson I would suggest making the base wider with 'skirt' so it doesn't slip out of bench during cut.
Thx i will try that
@TorbjörnÅhman HI :) what is that black "flakes" 1:26 that coming off from metal when you hitting it ?
That's scale, basically iron oxide(rust). As you heat the iron, it bonds with the oxygen of the air, creating iron oxide, which then falls off during hammer impacts.
***** TY :)
***** In other words, its the iron returning to its natural state.
FYORRG Sort of...the entirely natural state of iron would be ore...:) And it isn't that. But, since all iron naturally tend toward becoming iron oxide, I suppose you could say that, yes.
***** There is also a some carbon content in there. In my metallurgy class, our final was to forge our own cold chisel and center punch, the guy I held the torch for while he held his blank wound up getting too close to the rosebud, and carbon began to precipitate out. The instructor cussed me out and said I was attempting to tank his tool. Stuck with me ever since.
Tjena Tobbe, hur hårda bör hammare och andra smidesverktyg vara? Jag har funderat en hel del på bl.a hot cuts och andra verktyg som används inom smidet, har nämligen lärt mig att härdat stål kan "explodera" om det är lite för hårt.
Victor Lindgren Hej. Jadu, det beror på. Jag är ingen expert och det finns nog många olika "skolor". Många av verktygen behöver inte vara härdade alls, tex. hot cuts/avskrot - du förlorar ganska snabbt någon härdning ändå när det värms upp, dessutom är det bra om det inte är hårdare än hammaren tex. så att du gör märken i den vid en snedträff. Lätt att fila/slipa ny egg. Hammare bör nog heller inte vara för hårda (härdade dock) så att de i sin tur inte gör märken i städet. Städet är dyrast :) ... Härdat stål kan "expoldera", det är därför man aldrig använder ett stål direkt efter härdning. Man anlöper alltid så att det får tillbaka en viss mjukhet. Alla verktyg för kall-bearbetning måste vara härdade och relativt hårda.
Många tack för ett detaljerat svar, mycket nytt att lära sig! Trevlig helg
How much mass do you lose from scaling do you think? I hi kd scaling the term but I could be very wrong.
Kisvenlucky7 Not much at all. 0.001% maybe :)
Torbjörn Åhman thanks, ive always wondered about these things. little details are the death of me I swear haha.
Kisvenlucky7 Hah, I know exactly how your mind works ;-)
a torb is that flatter 1 piece or 2 pieces welder together ... was there a vid on making that?
It's one piece. I don't have a video on this exact one but I have one on a slightly larger flatter. Search my videos.
very nice work. what finish did you use? i am curious.
Thank you. Just a thin layer of oil.
I've been 1000th Like, did I win a tool? :) Just kidding, Great channel and amazing work. Thanks for sharing!
+Luca ”KALLAMITY” Zampriolo Thanks! Glad you liked it!
seen several of these kind of hot cut tools, but whats the benefit using this rather than an traditional one?
There are two reasons. 1. The taper makes it "lock in" with the anvil and you don't get that bounce or rattle of a loose tool + better rebound. 2. The curved edge makes less contact with the work and cuts better.
Stupid question but what's that stuff that comes off when you hit the heated metal?
Diogo Borges We call that "scale", it's basically a thin layer of iron oxide that forms on the surface at high heat.
thanks :)
Awesome work, how many years of experience do you have?
About 6 years...
nice video. i swore at the 10 min mark, when you hit the metal to the grinder, i could smell it ? lol
Nice!
Did you start with 1.5" stock?
I think it was 28 or 30mm... can't remember now.
а на вытяжке вентилятор не засоряется ?
Даниил Данкевич ?? google translate gives me "and on the exhaust fan is not clogged?" - no it's natural draft only, works well.
Molto interessante. Bello!!!
Roberto Scarpellini Thanks!
vad använder du för stålsort till din hot cut???
Peter Sjökvist Hej. Jag har en del 2140 (uddeholm ARNE) i grövre dim, så jag har kört med det och det fungerar rätt bra. Lämnar det normaliserat bara.
Så det behöver inte härdas. Vad gick din nya hydral hammare på? Och vilket märke är det? Är du nöjd med den. Vill skaffa mig en egen
Peter Sjökvist Nä, bäst är att inte härda. Är den för hård riskerar man att göra märken i hammaren vid snedträff. Dessutom förlorar den lätt härdning ändå när man hugger större saker. Du menar min nya lufthammre? Kan bara säga att den var dyr... är inte klar med fundament så jag har inte testkört ännu. Finns ju nya Anyang att handla men då får du räkna med en bit över 100.000kr i samma storlek. :(
Did you quench it in oil later ?
hadi Nope. I use it normalized only. That makes it easy to resharpen and you don't risk damaging your hammer badly with a bad blow. It should be used with hot material...
@@torbjornahman I was going to ask the same question. This sounds like a great idea
What is the difference in your hammers and a Japanese hammer.
Oh, there are several different types or patterns of hammers. French,German,Swedish,Japanese etc. etc. all with different properties regarding weight distribution and function. I think you have to research that yourself or try them out!
What material dud you use?
Oh, I used O1 steel for this one
What was that small tool you were using?
***** Do you mean the power hammer flatter? Flat on one side and half round on the other. To forge a tapered shape under parallel dies you need some sort of tool. This is a pretty common type of tool, but the design varies.
Is that the tool you were holding in your hand? Re: 2:00-2:21
***** Yes!
Excslentes رائع
Please make wootz steel and forging it
Kan du visa hur hammarmaskinen fungerar?
+Hugo Goggo Hej. Kan kanske vara ett uppslag för en kort film. Vi får se när det kan bli av. :)
+Torbjörn Åhman 👍
its the first one hehe niceeee ahamnn sucess
Yes, my first experiment with filming in the workshop.
@@torbjornahman sucess
What steel usate ?
Allen VDJ For this one I used O1 steel. Maybe not ideal, but seems to hold up very good. I think any medium-high carbon steel would work fine. I use mine as forged (normalized), so it's not super hard.
Torbjörn Åhman thanks
1114 like =) thats what i want to know. but... did not quenching and post heating?
I don't harden my hot cuts for two reasons. It is meant to cut hot and does not require the hardness, and cutting larger pieces you would most likely heat the tool and ruin any hardening anyway. But most importantly I want the hot cut to be softer than my hammer, so that with a bad hit you don't mess up your hammer face. The edge of the hot cut is easy to dress if necessary.
Hello, what metal do ?
The tool is forged from O1 tool steel.
thank you
Maaaan, that hammer was noisy! Haha
добро сделано,лаик.
What is 'fish mouthing'?
Wubbly Bubbly When an end is folding over itself, it forms something similar to the shape of a fish mouth... It's hard to correct so better try avoiding that.
I would imagine it's not quite as fun to be a whitesmith (whitesmiths work in white metals such as tin, pewter or silver).
So this is how it all started, huh? 🤔
I guess so! :)
A tiny axe
+
Будьте кузнечным блогером непревращайтесь нивкакого другого.
oil its screaming oil me :)
Your powerhammer needs some oil.
It sure did! That was a while ago....
MrLukeRob after watching the video I was going to say the same thing!
far to much use of the power hammer