That was probably a lot of work for you especially the prep. That's good that you're getting a lot of different trades under your belt You can never learn enough Good job Josh.
@@danlevesque5437 no I don't work on appliances at all management has repair guys but most of the time they just want new microwaves. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Whirlpool made it so easy to save that type of microwave 1 convenient cut out and 3 door contacts usually #1 cause for tripping breaker or dead keypads in case you remove any or those models and wanted a quick/ permanent fix for another Whirlpool model
Actually most of the star for the Phillips is available One day I'll do a video where I grind it and then I'll reverse it out just to show you next time I do one but you can also just drill the head off and take the hinge off and either break the screw off below the wood line or use a pair of vice grips and take it all out but usually once you fix them the only time that hinge will be coming off is on the door side if they break the door usually the jam side will stay there forever until they decide to put a new prehung then it won't matter. But that was a very good question I will grind one down on the next door that I do and then I'll actually keep in mind to show you how I can reverse it. Or at least I hope I can. Believe it or not these management companies don't want to pay to move the hinge up or down in the new wood and then patch it and then paint it they want the easiest fix possible and if I don't give it to him somebody else will as long as it's safe I proceed if something that's going to cause a problem or be dangerous then that's where I put the brakes thank you so much for watching and sharing that was a very good question.
Well to start it off we had one trip out to look at the microwave to see if it was repairable or not then with our shopping we always include our shopping time and return visit we charged $839 labor for the microwave installation removing replace three outlets troubleshoot electrical issue in garage repair garage electrical box and outlet repair closet door and one item we forgot to do there was an outside exterior life fixture that we were supposed to change out on the second story Vinny had to go back 2 hours later and put that in so I could invoice My estimate to them was before I even started was $839 labor Vinny was paid $300 for his time and the other $539 went into residential repairs which my wife and I both own that's Alicia the lady you see working there.
@ thank you for posting the dollar amount! Troubleshooting is expensive most homeowners don’t understand how knowledgeable you gotta be to troubleshoot electrical.thank you for your time!
You are so right we got to get back into that habit when we grab the grinder we better be grabbing with glasses to go with it thank you for watching and sharing.
So right that's why I like to share that amperage meter with the tenant they can actually see that they're either getting close to it or going over it thank you for sharing this educates a lot of people most people think if it's a 15 or a 20 they got 15 or 20 they don't realize they can't go all the way up or they shouldn't at least.
@davidnoren8260 Yes I believe the max load should be 80%. But after saying this there are a few specialty breakers that can maintain 85%, but 80% is the going rate I believe.Yes, electrical circuit breakers can handle 85% of their rated capacity continuously, but it’s important to understand the rules around this usage: Breaker Load Capacity Rules 1. Continuous Loads (3+ Hours): • For continuous loads, the National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that a circuit breaker should only be loaded to 80% of its rated capacity. • For example, a 20-amp breaker can handle a maximum of 16 amps for continuous loads. 2. Non-Continuous Loads: • For short-duration or non-continuous loads, a breaker can handle 100% of its rated capacity. • For example, a 20-amp breaker can safely handle 20 amps of non-continuous load. 3. 85% of Capacity: • Using a breaker at 85% of its capacity is acceptable and safe for both continuous and non-continuous loads. • For a 20-amp breaker, this would be 17 amps, well within safe operational limits for both load types. Why These Limits Matter These limits help prevent overheating, nuisance tripping, and long-term wear on the breaker and wiring. Always factor in the type of load (continuous vs. non-continuous) when planning circuits.
awesome video good troubleshooting and happy holidays to you and your family vince keep the videos coming i enjoy them
Will do and Happy holidays to you as well thank you again for watching.
Nice work!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for watching and commenting Hope you're having a great weekend.
Hello vince !! Just got done with a chimney liner !!
That was probably a lot of work for you especially the prep. That's good that you're getting a lot of different trades under your belt You can never learn enough Good job Josh.
@ResidentialRepairs that's right I really want to try to be a genaral contractor aswell it'll be years tho I wanna master my work first !!
@Hvac-dude that is great news You're still a young Man and have plenty of time to get it done real good thinking Josh.
Thank you for the video.
Thank you for watching.
Do you ever try to salvage door contacts and thermal cutouts from your scrap microwaves to attempt to fix others in the future?
@@danlevesque5437 no I don't work on appliances at all management has repair guys but most of the time they just want new microwaves. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Whirlpool made it so easy to save that type of microwave 1 convenient cut out and 3 door contacts usually #1 cause for tripping breaker or dead keypads in case you remove any or those models and wanted a quick/ permanent fix for another Whirlpool model
On my ceramic Heater when I shut it off the fan alwaysr7ns a few seconds I think it just does it to cool off the coils !
Thank you Josh That's good information to know cuz it had me stumped.
What happens when they want to change the closet door and the head of the screw is grinded off 😂
Actually most of the star for the Phillips is available One day I'll do a video where I grind it and then I'll reverse it out just to show you next time I do one but you can also just drill the head off and take the hinge off and either break the screw off below the wood line or use a pair of vice grips and take it all out but usually once you fix them the only time that hinge will be coming off is on the door side if they break the door usually the jam side will stay there forever until they decide to put a new prehung then it won't matter. But that was a very good question I will grind one down on the next door that I do and then I'll actually keep in mind to show you how I can reverse it. Or at least I hope I can. Believe it or not these management companies don't want to pay to move the hinge up or down in the new wood and then patch it and then paint it they want the easiest fix possible and if I don't give it to him somebody else will as long as it's safe I proceed if something that's going to cause a problem or be dangerous then that's where I put the brakes thank you so much for watching and sharing that was a very good question.
What did you charge for that call? Guessing all 3 of you need get paid?
Well to start it off we had one trip out to look at the microwave to see if it was repairable or not then with our shopping we always include our shopping time and return visit we charged $839 labor for the microwave installation removing replace three outlets troubleshoot electrical issue in garage repair garage electrical box and outlet repair closet door and one item we forgot to do there was an outside exterior life fixture that we were supposed to change out on the second story Vinny had to go back 2 hours later and put that in so I could invoice My estimate to them was before I even started was $839 labor Vinny was paid $300 for his time and the other $539 went into residential repairs which my wife and I both own that's Alicia the lady you see working there.
@ thank you for posting the dollar amount! Troubleshooting is expensive most homeowners don’t understand how knowledgeable you gotta be to troubleshoot electrical.thank you for your time!
@ladodgers9574 anytime.
He's grinding without safety glasses not cool 😎
You are so right we got to get back into that habit when we grab the grinder we better be grabbing with glasses to go with it thank you for watching and sharing.
Breakers only good for 85 percent of its capacity
So right that's why I like to share that amperage meter with the tenant they can actually see that they're either getting close to it or going over it thank you for sharing this educates a lot of people most people think if it's a 15 or a 20 they got 15 or 20 they don't realize they can't go all the way up or they shouldn't at least.
80 %@@ResidentialRepairs
@davidnoren8260 Yes I believe the max load should be 80%. But after saying this there are a few specialty breakers that can maintain 85%, but 80% is the going rate I believe.Yes, electrical circuit breakers can handle 85% of their rated capacity continuously, but it’s important to understand the rules around this usage:
Breaker Load Capacity Rules
1. Continuous Loads (3+ Hours):
• For continuous loads, the National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that a circuit breaker should only be loaded to 80% of its rated capacity.
• For example, a 20-amp breaker can handle a maximum of 16 amps for continuous loads.
2. Non-Continuous Loads:
• For short-duration or non-continuous loads, a breaker can handle 100% of its rated capacity.
• For example, a 20-amp breaker can safely handle 20 amps of non-continuous load.
3. 85% of Capacity:
• Using a breaker at 85% of its capacity is acceptable and safe for both continuous and non-continuous loads.
• For a 20-amp breaker, this would be 17 amps, well within safe operational limits for both load types.
Why These Limits Matter
These limits help prevent overheating, nuisance tripping, and long-term wear on the breaker and wiring. Always factor in the type of load (continuous vs. non-continuous) when planning circuits.