Hey Paul, it's great having a QSO with your favourite YT creators! I've only been licensed a few months, had a QSO with Callum (DX Commander) on my first day! This is the video I referred to. Such attention to detail - wonderful. My 'maker' skills are improving with practice, but I'm not ready for something like this yet. Your videos are some of my favourite wind-down before sleep selections. Thank you for the great videos. Keep up the good work.
it's safe up to 14,5V, because when car alternator is charging the battery, voltage can be up to 15,3V It's ok when is working, but there are different ways to make a huge power supply, the better I know is to use one regulator driving a certain amount of transistor in quasi parallel configuration, to avoid self oscillating issues and gain differences. parallel of voltage regulators give a lot of interferences between them, this is why one driving transistors is better. I would like to thank you so much for sharing your antenna experience, I've learned a lot from you. hugs from italy
In addition to the technical perfection of your work, above all this shows absolute perfection in every mechanical detail, something that is important for the stability of these circuits. A power supply designed and built in this way is a work of art. Congratulations. What an excellent job. I will soon build a power supply for audio circuits at 13.2 volts and I think that with the type of need I have in this regard, this will be the appropriate typology to manufacture it. 73 Macedo Pinto Portugal
Absolutely beautiful! 2 things tho: 1- You need a top you can see thru. Maybe acrylic? That is fantastic art. It needs to be seen. 2- for the love of god get a Dremel! Your skill combined with Dremels precision would make you unstoppable! Thanks for the video
Regarding the viewing window, not a bad idea. You may want to add some wire mesh, just on case RFI has been given a way to escape, though the toroidal transformer design is pretty good.
Funny enough before you had printed circuit boards everything was made this way. Infact in High Power applictions you will often still see copper busbars cut from 5mm or 10mm copper plate and bolted to components. Virtually every prototype wirperson will have been trained to produce something of at least this standard Its not my personal favorite way of doing things simply because when something goes wrong several years down the road ( Which it will invariably due to component failure) a repair is then virtually impossible without dismantling the entire thing. The other dislike is bare metal conductors in close proximity to each other.
Truly, you did amazing job in making 20A power supply. When you start connecting diode, I thought you will end up in creating mess but you make everything perfectly. That power supply will last more than 8 to 10 years with out any issue. I think you should use 68000uf capacitor but 22000uf just work fine. I am just a viewer and you are actually make that power supply. So I guess you know what you are doing more than I. Anyway Brilliant job Keep it up and make such amazing video God bless you more and more
I have bult so many power supply's over the years.That look pretty good. Usually I use LM723 IC and stud diodes and large can type cap's . working on 60 to 65 V supply for LD MOS now. first supply I made over 24V .I put overvoltage crowbar protection in my supply's. easy to add. also I use EMI/RFI filter on ac input with GE MOV. I have found from making lots that RF from radios can get into reg and make unstable voltage. the biggest I made is 200 amp with 250 amp surge 14V ADJ. 30 2N3772 outputs . 4 50 amp transformers and NTE 85Amp diodes . 240V 20 amp AC fan cooled. working over 10 years now. great little 20 amp, 73's
Nice Project, Paul! Heavy, but without the frequency noise Like an switching Power supply eventuelly will generate in your Receiver... You Made this with passion for Details. 73's Steve
Thank you! Yes I am detailist that's true lol 😃 Thanks for watching. Editing of this 4 days work takes me about 10 hours and I recorded about 27GB raw data 😊 Finally it's done hihi 😉👍 73. Enjoy
Great work just one concern I didn't see the case earthed from power 220-230v input or did I miss that also just somthing that would get on my nerves the on off switch is upside down down should be on up off
great video and good work. I converted an old out dated Antec brand 350 Watt ATX computer power supply to use as a 12 volt power supply. I found instructions on how to convert them on the internet and wanted to try it out. I think I got around 12.75 volts after the conversion. And the amp rating on the label for the 12 volt side was around 12amps. It was a fun project.
Thanks! I've had in the past an old PC AT PSU converted to 13,8V which gave out a full and stable 30Amps with an anti short protection and overvoltage protection. It was done by one my very smart friend (also HAM) and I was very happy with it. But once when I sold my ex-FT950 transceiver I've sold this PSU also ;-( and that was my mistake... It was very good PSU.
The 12VDC output terminals need to be mechanically keyed to the chassis. After a few times loosened and tightened the binding posts will begin to rotate, and the tightening torque will be transferred to the wiring. A small sheet of acrylic (polycarbonate is better) can be used to provide mechanical support for the torque on the binding posts.
If you are getting 100mv drop a 2.5A at 20A you will well below 13.8V. I would say the voltage out will be approx. 20A/2.5A=8 so at 20A the voltage would be 800mv that means you will not get 13.8V. That is if we assume not voltage drop due to the secondary resistance which will further add to the voltage drop. In order to minimize all the voltage drops I would not use copper wire, I would us copper bus bars of 3/16 inch as a minimum. Mounting the diodes to the box to use as a heat sink. At full current the box will be to hot to touch. I would use stud mounted diodes on a finned heat sink with a cooling fan. These are just a few things I would change to increase it reliability.
Hello Paul, Thank you for uploading and sharing this Video. Excellent workmanship Can you please advise on the Toroid .. Where can I get one and what would the specifications be ? I don't see it listed in the 'parts list' ? 73 Peter
Great build Paul... My preference is 'Linear' PSU's for Ham Radio.. I know there are noise free switch mode supplies, but the good one's are very expensive and have many components that might fail and they all need cooling fans to work at their rated specifications. Top marks to Roman for his design and top marks to you for a great video, detailed and skilled construction.. 73, Pete (G4RYO)
I've always loved the old point-to-point connection method. But you sir...you didn't use wire. Looks like 10-12 gauge copper rod. This is a piece of art.
Thanks for the video. One tip: If you swap the input and output leads on the switch, the neon light will come on only when the switch is in the on position.
@@OM0ET Awesome! I die the same when replacing a switch in the studio. Difficult to know how the switches are wired internally. Great job on the power supply, though. Looks neat.
Interesting design I used a high current fixed voltage regulator and a couple of high current pass transistors and overvoltage trip relay even though it works well I would not trust an expensive HF radio on it
I think by now you have invested in some cheap Chinese spanners. And other then some choices of placement. Great video! Thanks for sharing. I love seeing heavy noiseless toroid power supplies getting build ore repaired.
what is the point of those 0.015 ohms resistors ? Maybe i'm ignorant, but don't they appear to the circuit at just simple cables, since the resistance is so low ? thanks
The parts list and the schematic make no mention whatsoever about how or where the toroidal transformer as obtained. Can it be procured or made to handle both 120 and 240v mains ?
Using a larger drill to counter sink sooner or later will end in tears. You only have to have one drill snatch to end in disaster. Take a trip to Home Depot they have the tools you need, and cheap.
great video I will use a better build next time use PCB 2 mm thick 2 oz of copper with heat sink for the diodes I think you just did it raw but this can be greatly improved 👍😊
Excellent job! That said, Forgive my guess, but I believe that an expensive radio like this would deserve a power supply with over voltage and over current protection, monitoring, etc...
@SnappyJon sure, it was one of my TH-cam channel build projects. Also I have got very cheaply used toroid transformator so this was a good idea to build this thing for my viewers 🙂👍
Hello, are you still using this power supply to power the hf station or is everything ok with it ?? what protection was applied before the output voltage increased ??
No, currently I use 30A switching PSU PS-30SWII eshop.anico.sk/radio_prislusenstvo_102/stabilizovane_zdroje_110/ps_30swii This linear PSU is used in my lab. Overvoltage protection is made by 16V Transils soldered directly on the output sockets. ;-)
You're killing me with those angled needle nose pliers! Nut driver please! And a drill press would've been nice, but we use what we have, right? I digress, my anal retentive ocd kicked in. I'm sure not many have watched this a the way through. Im finding it cathartic before bed. Well done. I miss doing projects like these. Word to the wise, if you end up having kids, don't expect much free time for projects for at least 8-10 years. Thank you for allowing me to live vicariously through you.
I believe that a transformer that could supply 16V AC in this project, would be better. Mainly due to ripple compensation and voltage drop in the secondary winding at maximum current
By the way, did you omitted the ballast wires in the first try? Although they add little resistance, they are very important for current balancing, to make sure that one of the regulators will not take more of the load than the rest. Also, Ive noticed that you are using a perhaps too big of a transformer, while not using one of the secondaries. You could use a smaller transformer while using both secondaries in parallel (or in series if they have half the output voltage you need).
Super praca, len zopar poznamok: - ak das lankovy kabel do cokoladky, tak by si mal dat do dutinky - uzemnenie skrinky nie spajkovane - pridal by som na vystup prepatovu ochranu, predsa len tie nase radia nie su najlacnejsie; pripadne len poistku koli skratu na +/-
I actually need a PSU for my FT-950, but I couldn't even get a toriodial as cheap as the cost of the fully built PSU's available. I was also wondering about trying to get a transformer from an old microwave and rewind the secondary to get enough power, its a lot of work though. By the way aren't you worried about not having any over voltage protection? Especially with such and expensive rig on the end of your homebrew supply!
Yes I think I just had a luck when I bought this cheap toroidal transformer for about 10€ only as used. For voltage protection I've used the 16V transils soldered directly on DC terminals. Exactly this: unipolar type P6KE16A DIOTEC. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode
@@OM0ET That's a good idea! And they do seem to act fast enough to be sure to protect the radio according to Wikipedia! I don't see them on the Schematic, have you just got them parallel with the load like a zener?
Back panel power socket....I'm crying man. You have Dremel bits....get a Dremel tool and cut off wheel... Soooo much easier to do stuff like that.
2 ปีที่แล้ว
Paul, the video is wonderful. The best thing is what is painted and shown from beginning to end. Just one question - tell me, please, what are the windings of the resistors 0.015 ohms. Petro - EA3AZ
Thank you so much for the nice comment Petro 😊 They are self made low resistant resistors which I replaced for the comercials later after this video 😉👍
Under heavy load V will decrease below 10v. It was better to use a DC to DC module for constant current and voltage. I have a big transformer and decreasing voltage is my problem which fixed it with a 300w dc to dc module.
Very tidy and well thought out, it's like miniature plumbing, point-to-point wiring is alive and well. Can you tell me which soldering gun you are using ? 73
Thanks for watching my videos 😉 I use transformer soldering iron similar like this: www.tme.eu/en/details/lt-125/soldering-irons-and-guns/zdz/ Have a nice day! 73, Paul
The test you are doing with the bulb is not credible enough, such power source should be tested under full load. I wonder how much will the voltage drop be then ?
This antennas are designed for short waves. RC control use mostly VHF or UHF waves, which is much different than short saves, therefore they will not work for this purpose 😉
yes, there are many options to add in this PSU, but currently I use this 30A switching PSU eshop.anico.sk/radio_prislusenstvo_102/stabilizovane_zdroje_110/ps_30swii
I reckon the fuse holder should be the first connection after the IEC, and I'm about unsure about your case mounting arrangement vs an actual proper heatsink. Where did you source your LT1083's? The eBay ones all appear to be fake.
Put a load of 18A and measure output voltage then, also measure ripple voltage under heavy load. Those electrolytics seemed too small for me. 12v transformer is too low voltage for 13,8v output😄. Otherwise very nicely done. 73! de es1gb
Looks good. I have a question when I plug in my cb rig to my toroidal mains power supply the cb rig doesn't power up. But if in put my 12volt fan to toroidal transformer psu the fan works. I know the cb is working I tested it on another power supply. So my question is why does it no power cb on toroidal psu?
@@OM0ET I put multimeter on to output of toroidal its giving 13.8v output dc. My cb is 13.8v my fan is 12volts all dc. I check the wring they were all in correctly black to negative red to positive.
This is brilliant and has plenty of beef. I visited your site but sadly the pdf link for the full schematic produces a blank page. Thank you for sharing this great project. M6CYV 73.
Ahoj zdravím moc se mi líbí tvůj zdroj , vzhledem k tomu že jsem se dokopal ke zkouškám tak už snad někde moje past slyšet jen ze znojemské klubové stanice ale začnu používat domácí QTH a uvažuju čím krmit svého kenwooda pro 100W potřebuju 22A 13,8 V spíš jako 40metrů mě bere 80metrů pásmo , hlavně na 40 m nejsem vybaven na 80 m mám deltaloop a invertV které přepínám pro směrovost , zesilovač mám tranzistorovej 600W od kluků z pelhřimova je fajn chodí dobře a je širší jako lampa, zdroj jsem realizoval na principu stabilizátoru 7815 se sadou tranzistorů 503 ale aď jsem se snažil sebevíc pořád mi nabručává pravda je že jen na plnej výkon rádia ,ale já musím do PA dostat 100w proto aby dalo 600w do delty a při plném tahu je to opravdu 22A a i když jsem přidal dvojici tranzistorů k původním 6ti tak mi padá napětí na 13,3 a to už mě ochrana rádia nepusťí na více jako 50 w výkonu čímž už nevybudím PA Koukal jsem po různých konstrukcích ta tvá se mě líbí z více důvodů , toroid 12V 40A bych měl , filtrační kondíky 16V 20000micro ( 2F) taky tranzistorů mám relativně víc jako v GM elektronic a co nemám koupím spíš bych potřeboval kopnout (asi do hlavy) abych se k tomu dostal jinak CB volačka jura Kravsko ,teda pokud tě neuráží že jsem aktivní i na CB , protože tady na druhý straně Javoriny to někteří OK blbě nesou když jim napíše síbíčkář ahoj jdu pracovat na rotačním stožáru pro vertikál HB9cw anténu na 11m pásmo
Ahoj. Som naopak rad ze si napisal. Ja som bol (este aj som) CBckar. Ballky Vranov 😉 Ak ti mozem odporucit tak investuj 100€ do paradneho zdroja QJE PS30SWII. Je to tvrdy a tichy spinany zdroj ktory ta urcite nesklame. Dava 30A a 13,8V s moznostou regulacie napatia. 😉
@@OM0ET Jo tak to jsi měl kliku když jsi sehnal tak dobře toroid já mám klasiku musel jsem přidat na závitech abych se dostal na potřebné napětí a taky to šlape cca13.8 20A linear ale díval jsem právě po nějakém toroidu. 73! OK2WF František
So viel Arbeit und Kosten für 13.8vdc und nur 20 Amper?? Denn lieber mindestens 30 Amper netzteil für ein wirklich langes Leben ohne spätere Überhitzungen und Verschmelzungen von Bauteile!!
Omet, Questo non è certo un buon esempio da seguire:Mi riferisco al montaggio della presa del connettore di alimentazione montato sacrificanfdo una parte dell griglia di areazione! per non parlare dell'uso del saldatore istantaneo per saldare grossi conduttori rame! io avrei preferito un saldatore a stilo 80/100W pe fare sadsture ben fatte e non come le ha fatte Lei, mezze fredde! Inolytre sull'ingrsso rete al posto di una normale presa IEC sarebbe stata più indicata una presa IEC completa di filtro EMI! 73 de' IW8ckz!
He says: "Total cost of this PSU project was about 40€ " But surely the cost of the 300VA toroidal transformer alone will be at least that! Then there's the smoothing capacitors, rectifier and box costs as well.
@@johanvandam2365 It's the Rosin or Colophony not a paste. And I use it for 20years without any sign of problem on electronic. It makes also a protective layer over the soldering iron and protect it from an oxidation... It's a solid form of resin obtained from pines and some other plants, mostly conifers and it uses here for decades... It's a very good thing. 73, Paul
Would have loved to watch this video all the way as I'm wanting to do a similar project. However, you didn't narrate the video as far as I watched so I bailed. Very sad. ALWAYS narrate your videos.
Hey Paul, it's great having a QSO with your favourite YT creators! I've only been licensed a few months, had a QSO with Callum (DX Commander) on my first day! This is the video I referred to. Such attention to detail - wonderful. My 'maker' skills are improving with practice, but I'm not ready for something like this yet. Your videos are some of my favourite wind-down before sleep selections. Thank you for the great videos. Keep up the good work.
it's safe up to 14,5V, because when car alternator is charging the battery, voltage can be up to 15,3V
It's ok when is working, but there are different ways to make a huge power supply, the better I know is to use one regulator driving a certain amount of transistor in quasi parallel configuration, to avoid self oscillating issues and gain differences.
parallel of voltage regulators give a lot of interferences between them, this is why one driving transistors is better.
I would like to thank you so much for sharing your antenna experience, I've learned a lot from you.
hugs from italy
In addition to the technical perfection of your work, above all this shows absolute perfection in every mechanical detail, something that is important for the stability of these circuits. A power supply designed and built in this way is a work of art. Congratulations. What an excellent job.
I will soon build a power supply for audio circuits at 13.2 volts and I think that with the type of need I have in this regard, this will be the appropriate typology to manufacture it.
73
Macedo Pinto
Portugal
Absolutely beautiful! 2 things tho:
1- You need a top you can see thru. Maybe acrylic? That is fantastic art. It needs to be seen.
2- for the love of god get a Dremel! Your skill combined with Dremels precision would make you unstoppable!
Thanks for the video
Regarding the viewing window, not a bad idea. You may want to add some wire mesh, just on case RFI has been given a way to escape, though the toroidal transformer design is pretty good.
Excellent workmanship! I have didn't see like this before. 100% hand made. Magnificent job. Chapeau👏👏👏
Thank you very much for your support!! ;)
Funny enough before you had printed circuit boards everything was made this way.
Infact in High Power applictions you will often still see copper busbars cut from 5mm or 10mm copper plate and bolted to components.
Virtually every prototype wirperson will have been trained to produce something of at least this standard
Its not my personal favorite way of doing things simply because when something goes wrong several years down the road ( Which it will invariably due to component failure) a repair is then virtually impossible without dismantling the entire thing.
The other dislike is bare metal conductors in close proximity to each other.
Very nice point-to-point construction. A joy to see!
Thank you 😊
That is quite likely the best 'how to video' I've laid my eyes on !
Thank you for watching of this looong video 😊73 Paul
NOW THAT IS A LABOR OF LOVE WELL DONE KG6MN
Truly, you did amazing job in making 20A power supply.
When you start connecting diode, I thought you will end up in creating mess but you make everything perfectly.
That power supply will last more than 8 to 10 years with out any issue.
I think you should use 68000uf capacitor but 22000uf just work fine. I am just a viewer and you are actually make that power supply. So I guess you know what you are doing more than I.
Anyway
Brilliant job
Keep it up and make such amazing video
God bless you more and more
Wow great work very well done
nicely compacted ...well thought out
You are an artist !
Thank you very very much! ;-) Paul
I have bult so many power supply's over the years.That look pretty good. Usually I use LM723 IC and stud diodes and large can type cap's . working on 60 to 65 V supply for LD MOS now. first supply I made over 24V .I put overvoltage crowbar protection in my supply's. easy to add. also I use EMI/RFI filter on ac input with GE MOV. I have found from making lots that RF from radios can get into reg and make unstable voltage. the biggest I made is 200 amp with 250 amp surge 14V ADJ. 30 2N3772 outputs . 4 50 amp transformers and NTE 85Amp diodes . 240V 20 amp AC fan cooled. working over 10 years now. great little 20 amp, 73's
Very cool work
Thanks! 😊
Nice Project, Paul!
Heavy, but without the frequency noise Like an switching Power supply eventuelly will generate in your Receiver...
You Made this with passion for Details.
73's Steve
Thank you very much Steve for the kind words ;-) I did my best that's true. Happy new year! 73 Paul :-)
Expertly done. You attention to detail and execution are fantastic. Nicely done my friend. 73
Thank you! Yes I am detailist that's true lol 😃 Thanks for watching. Editing of this 4 days work takes me about 10 hours and I recorded about 27GB raw data 😊 Finally it's done hihi 😉👍 73. Enjoy
I like how you wired this power supply. 🤔👌👍
Great work just one concern I didn't see the case earthed from power 220-230v input or did I miss that also just somthing that would get on my nerves the on off switch is upside down down should be on up off
great video and good work. I converted an old out dated Antec brand 350 Watt ATX computer power supply to use as a 12 volt power supply. I found instructions on how to convert them on the internet and wanted to try it out. I think I got around 12.75 volts after the conversion. And the amp rating on the label for the 12 volt side was around 12amps. It was a fun project.
Thanks! I've had in the past an old PC AT PSU converted to 13,8V which gave out a full and stable 30Amps with an anti short protection and overvoltage protection. It was done by one my very smart friend (also HAM) and I was very happy with it. But once when I sold my ex-FT950 transceiver I've sold this PSU also ;-( and that was my mistake... It was very good PSU.
I still have some AT SMPS for such a PSU!
The 12VDC output terminals need to be mechanically keyed to the chassis. After a few times loosened and tightened the binding posts will begin to rotate, and the tightening torque will be transferred to the wiring. A small sheet of acrylic (polycarbonate is better) can be used to provide mechanical support for the torque on the binding posts.
man, your work is a piece of art... only thing missing were popcorns while watching it :D
:-D Thanks to nice compliment! It's very long video, almost like a short movie HI HI But I am glad that you still like it! ;-) 73 Paul
I LOVE THAT IRON
What capacity of Toroidal Transformer is needed for making a DC Power Supply that has load capacity of 400 amperes & output of 14.4 volts ?
If you are getting 100mv drop a 2.5A at 20A you will well below 13.8V.
I would say the voltage out will be approx. 20A/2.5A=8 so at 20A the voltage would be 800mv that means you will not get 13.8V.
That is if we assume not voltage drop due to the secondary resistance which will further add to the voltage drop.
In order to minimize all the voltage drops I would not use copper wire, I would us copper bus bars of 3/16 inch as a minimum.
Mounting the diodes to the box to use as a heat sink. At full current the box will be to hot to touch.
I would use stud mounted diodes on a finned heat sink with a cooling fan.
These are just a few things I would change to increase it reliability.
I found that secondary AC output on toroid is too low. It needs at least one more turn for higher output voltage to get a harder power supply.
Hello Paul,
Thank you for uploading and sharing this Video. Excellent workmanship
Can you please advise on the Toroid ..
Where can I get one and what would the specifications be ?
I don't see it listed in the 'parts list' ?
73
Peter
Great build Paul... My preference is 'Linear' PSU's for Ham Radio.. I know there are noise free switch mode supplies, but the good one's are very expensive and have many components that might fail and they all need cooling fans to work at their rated specifications. Top marks to Roman for his design and top marks to you for a great video, detailed and skilled construction.. 73, Pete (G4RYO)
Thank you Pete for your very kind comment! ;) Stay safe and 73! Paul.
I've always loved the old point-to-point connection method. But you sir...you didn't use wire. Looks like 10-12 gauge copper rod. This is a piece of art.
as an electrician 12 awg solid copper wire is match for 20 amp circuit, he really knows what he's doing.
I am genuinly impressed. So interesting to watch your videos. Hope to meet you on the bands soon. 73 de LA6YJA...
Thank you for your very kind comment 😊 73, greetings from Slovakia! 🙋♂️
Really fine work. Thanks so much for sharing son. N5FJK
Thanks for the video.
One tip: If you swap the input and output leads on the switch, the neon light will come on only when the switch is in the on position.
Yes Jim. I fixed that but after the video. Now it's OK already. 😊👍
@@OM0ET Awesome! I die the same when replacing a switch in the studio. Difficult to know how the switches are wired internally. Great job on the power supply, though. Looks neat.
@@JimGriffOne True 😊 Thank you very much for watching! 😉👍
Interesting design I used a high current fixed voltage regulator and a couple of high current pass transistors and overvoltage trip relay even though it works well I would not trust an expensive HF radio on it
Can I replace the iron core ( E & I type ) transformer ?
muito bom.
I think by now you have invested in some cheap Chinese spanners. And other then some choices of placement. Great video!
Thanks for sharing. I love seeing heavy noiseless toroid power supplies getting build ore repaired.
Regulation is fixed on 13.8V
What are input and output volt and amp of the toroidal Transformer? Great work bra!
Phenomenal work. But one question - why are there two exposed wires over the toroid?
HOW MUCH RIPPLE AT 18 AMPS IS THE OUTPUT FUSED kg6mn
what is the point of those 0.015 ohms resistors ? Maybe i'm ignorant, but don't they appear to the circuit at just simple cables, since the resistance is so low ? thanks
Does the psu casing provide enough cooling for the silicon devices?
The parts list and the schematic make no mention whatsoever about how or where the toroidal transformer as obtained. Can it be procured or made to handle both 120 and 240v mains ?
A nut driver set would be a good investment,regards Colin.
Yes, good point! 😂 True i need one, but I never seen any for so small nuts here in local shops 😊 I have to check internet... 😉👍 73
And a deburr tool
Using a larger drill to counter sink sooner or later will end in tears. You only have to have one drill snatch to end in disaster. Take a trip to Home Depot they have the tools you need, and cheap.
@@RolyRJ Not sure if there's a Home depot where he lives at ... just saying
You did not spec the toroidal TX. The most expensive part to get. Where did you get that TX and what was its specification?
great video I will use a better build next time use PCB 2 mm thick 2 oz of copper with heat sink for the diodes I think you just did it raw but this can be greatly improved 👍😊
Yes there is a lot of staff ready to improve. I wish you good luck with your own project! 😉👍 I hope it will work good for you. 73 Paul
Excellent job! That said, Forgive my guess, but I believe that an expensive radio like this would deserve a power supply with over voltage and over current protection, monitoring, etc...
Yes, I use this one: eshop.anico.sk/ps_30swii
@SnappyJon sure, it was one of my TH-cam channel build projects. Also I have got very cheaply used toroid transformator so this was a good idea to build this thing for my viewers 🙂👍
Hello, are you still using this power supply to power the hf station or is everything ok with it ??
what protection was applied before the output voltage increased ??
No, currently I use 30A switching PSU PS-30SWII
eshop.anico.sk/radio_prislusenstvo_102/stabilizovane_zdroje_110/ps_30swii
This linear PSU is used in my lab. Overvoltage protection is made by 16V Transils soldered directly on the output sockets. ;-)
what is the transformer that you are using ?
You're killing me with those angled needle nose pliers! Nut driver please! And a drill press would've been nice, but we use what we have, right?
I digress, my anal retentive ocd kicked in.
I'm sure not many have watched this a the way through. Im finding it cathartic before bed. Well done. I miss doing projects like these. Word to the wise, if you end up having kids, don't expect much free time for projects for at least 8-10 years.
Thank you for allowing me to live vicariously through you.
I believe that a transformer that could supply 16V AC in this project, would be better. Mainly due to ripple compensation and voltage drop in the secondary winding at maximum current
Yes. That would be better for harder current source, but I had only this one. Got it cheaply 🙂
By the way, did you omitted the ballast wires in the first try? Although they add little resistance, they are very important for current balancing, to make sure that one of the regulators will not take more of the load than the rest.
Also, Ive noticed that you are using a perhaps too big of a transformer, while not using one of the secondaries. You could use a smaller transformer while using both secondaries in parallel (or in series if they have half the output voltage you need).
The ballast wires were showed at 38:33. I used the transformer just which I've got. I cannot choose between any others. 😊 Thanks for comment! 👍
Super praca, len zopar poznamok:
- ak das lankovy kabel do cokoladky, tak by si mal dat do dutinky
- uzemnenie skrinky nie spajkovane
- pridal by som na vystup prepatovu ochranu, predsa len tie nase radia nie su najlacnejsie; pripadne len poistku koli skratu na +/-
I actually need a PSU for my FT-950, but I couldn't even get a toriodial as cheap as the cost of the fully built PSU's available. I was also wondering about trying to get a transformer from an old microwave and rewind the secondary to get enough power, its a lot of work though. By the way aren't you worried about not having any over voltage protection? Especially with such and expensive rig on the end of your homebrew supply!
Yes I think I just had a luck when I bought this cheap toroidal transformer for about 10€ only as used. For voltage protection I've used the 16V transils soldered directly on DC terminals. Exactly this: unipolar type P6KE16A DIOTEC.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transient-voltage-suppression_diode
@@OM0ET That's a good idea! And they do seem to act fast enough to be sure to protect the radio according to Wikipedia! I don't see them on the Schematic, have you just got them parallel with the load like a zener?
@@stewartrv yes between positive and negative pole on DC output socket. If voltage rise above 16V it cause a short and fuse will blow up. ;-)
Can you put out a file with the full wire diagram and schematics. And a list of all the parts to make this minus the box. Thank you
I donno why people don't read video descriptions
You could use Amp meter
Back panel power socket....I'm crying man. You have Dremel bits....get a Dremel tool and cut off wheel... Soooo much easier to do stuff like that.
Paul, the video is wonderful. The best thing is what is painted and shown from beginning to end. Just one question - tell me, please, what are the windings of the resistors 0.015 ohms.
Petro - EA3AZ
Thank you so much for the nice comment Petro 😊 They are self made low resistant resistors which I replaced for the comercials later after this video 😉👍
Add Transil diode. Or better, trasil + zener + thyristor. If Stabilizator failed, or something, THIS SAVE you radio.
Under heavy load V will decrease below 10v. It was better to use a DC to DC module for constant current and voltage.
I have a big transformer and decreasing voltage is my problem which fixed it with a 300w dc to dc module.
Very tidy and well thought out, it's like miniature plumbing, point-to-point wiring is alive and well. Can you tell me which soldering gun you are using ? 73
Thanks for watching my videos 😉
I use transformer soldering iron similar like this:
www.tme.eu/en/details/lt-125/soldering-irons-and-guns/zdz/
Have a nice day! 73, Paul
The test you are doing with the bulb is not credible enough, such power source should be tested under full load. I wonder how much will the voltage drop be then ?
Yes i agree and i knew about that but in that time i don't had a better load to test. Sorry
Can't help but notice you have a lot of videos on antennas are there any for long range rc wing flying
This antennas are designed for short waves. RC control use mostly VHF or UHF waves, which is much different than short saves, therefore they will not work for this purpose 😉
@@OM0ET even better as a project I am working on works in the short band range I was just curious before if you had any for long range
Looks pretty solid. Actually I prefer classical psu like you did. BTW what about short circuit protection?
yes, there are many options to add in this PSU, but currently I use this 30A switching PSU eshop.anico.sk/radio_prislusenstvo_102/stabilizovane_zdroje_110/ps_30swii
👏👍
would have been cheaper to buy one and would of been better quality and saved your time building it
I reckon the fuse holder should be the first connection after the IEC, and I'm about unsure about your case mounting arrangement vs an actual proper heatsink. Where did you source your LT1083's? The eBay ones all appear to be fake.
Do you have a list of supplies for this project. I am in the US
73 de KQ4CDPaul
Hi Paul, here it is:
POWER SUPPLY UNIT 13,8V/18A
PARTS LIST:
4x SHOTTKY DIODES: MOSPEC S20C40C
4X STABILIZERS: LINEAR LT1083
2X CAPACITORS: 22mF
4X REZISTOR: 0,015R (5W) or 3ft #16 wire
1x REZISTOR: 47R (1W)
1X REZISTOR: 470R (1W)
1X REZISTOR: 680R (0,6W)
4X CAPACITOR: 10uF/25V
4X CAPACITOR: 10uF/16V TANTAL
1X CAPACITOR: 47uF/25V
1X CAPACITOR: 100nF/63V FOIL (NOT FOR HIGH VOLTAGE)
1X DIODE: 1N5408
1x LED GREEN
and, the transformer?
@@matambale its individual in each coutry
GOOD.
MAKING HOLES ETC SHOULD HAVE AVOIDED.
A CLEAR CIRCUIT DIAGRAM IN A VISIBLE CORNER IF PASTED MAY
BE EASY TO UNDERSTAND.
Put a load of 18A and measure output voltage then, also measure ripple voltage under heavy load. Those electrolytics seemed too small for me. 12v transformer is too low voltage for 13,8v output😄. Otherwise very nicely done. 73! de es1gb
Looks good. I have a question when I plug in my cb rig to my toroidal mains power supply the cb rig doesn't power up. But if in put my 12volt fan to toroidal transformer psu the fan works. I know the cb is working I tested it on another power supply. So my question is why does it no power cb on toroidal psu?
Does your toroidal PSU outputs DC or AC? Did you check polarity? What is output voltage on it? Does the PSU any over current protection?
@@OM0ET I put multimeter on to output of toroidal its giving 13.8v output dc. My cb is 13.8v my fan is 12volts all dc. I check the wring they were all in correctly black to negative red to positive.
@@OM0ET it has current protection also
@@pulsenetwork1796 so then try set the protection to max.
Actually to minimum protection
This is brilliant and has plenty of beef. I visited your site but sadly the pdf link for the full schematic produces a blank page. Thank you for sharing this great project. M6CYV 73.
Oh thank you for letting me know! I will solve this issue as soon as possible ;-) Stay tuned :) Paul
@@OM0ET It's still blank...
Problem has been solved :-) it should work now... 73
Good video de Yi1hxh rafat
Great job!!!!
73 yo6TT
What kind of transformer do you use? AC 16 V ?
Yes, I think it was something like that
Guess AC on rush is big due to toroidal transformer.
Ahoj zdravím moc se mi líbí tvůj zdroj , vzhledem k tomu že jsem se dokopal ke zkouškám tak už snad někde moje past slyšet jen ze znojemské klubové stanice ale začnu používat domácí QTH a uvažuju čím krmit svého kenwooda pro 100W potřebuju 22A 13,8 V spíš jako 40metrů mě bere 80metrů pásmo , hlavně na 40 m nejsem vybaven na 80 m mám deltaloop a invertV které přepínám pro směrovost , zesilovač mám tranzistorovej 600W od kluků z pelhřimova je fajn chodí dobře a je širší jako lampa, zdroj jsem realizoval na principu stabilizátoru 7815 se sadou tranzistorů 503 ale aď jsem se snažil sebevíc pořád mi nabručává pravda je že jen na plnej výkon rádia ,ale já musím do PA dostat 100w proto aby dalo 600w do delty a při plném tahu je to opravdu 22A a i když jsem přidal dvojici tranzistorů k původním 6ti tak mi padá napětí na 13,3 a to už mě ochrana rádia nepusťí na více jako 50 w výkonu čímž už nevybudím PA Koukal jsem po různých konstrukcích ta tvá se mě líbí z více důvodů , toroid 12V 40A bych měl , filtrační kondíky 16V 20000micro ( 2F) taky tranzistorů mám relativně víc jako v GM elektronic a co nemám koupím spíš bych potřeboval kopnout (asi do hlavy) abych se k tomu dostal jinak CB volačka jura Kravsko ,teda pokud tě neuráží že jsem aktivní i na CB , protože tady na druhý straně Javoriny to někteří OK blbě nesou když jim napíše síbíčkář ahoj jdu pracovat na rotačním stožáru pro vertikál HB9cw anténu na 11m pásmo
Ahoj. Som naopak rad ze si napisal. Ja som bol (este aj som) CBckar. Ballky Vranov 😉 Ak ti mozem odporucit tak investuj 100€ do paradneho zdroja QJE PS30SWII. Je to tvrdy a tichy spinany zdroj ktory ta urcite nesklame. Dava 30A a 13,8V s moznostou regulacie napatia. 😉
Ahoj, pěkná konstrukce, rád bych se optal, kde jsi sehnal ten toroid? Za případné info předem dík. 73 František
Ahoj Frantisek. Toroid som nasiel nahodou na bazos.sk Vysiel ma na 10€ 😉 Dakujem za pochvalu 😊 73 Palo OM0ET
@@OM0ET Jo tak to jsi měl kliku když jsi sehnal tak dobře toroid já mám klasiku musel jsem přidat na závitech abych se dostal na potřebné napětí a taky to šlape cca13.8 20A linear ale díval jsem právě po nějakém toroidu. 73! OK2WF František
Great build. Is 20AMP ok for 100w?
Thanks! In general yes, but I would recommend to use 30A PSU.
OM0ET your attention to detail is impressive. Well on the construction, I enjoyed watching.
@@walkingmanvideo9455 Thank you. I am so happy for this kind words! Thanks for watching ;)
Speak you bellend!!!
Transformer windegng
I knew that, it’s for radio station
Yes, but I dont use it now for transceiver. I use it as the Lab PSU. 😉
So viel Arbeit und Kosten für 13.8vdc und nur 20 Amper?? Denn lieber mindestens 30 Amper netzteil für ein wirklich langes Leben ohne spätere Überhitzungen und Verschmelzungen von Bauteile!!
Omet, Questo non è certo un buon esempio da seguire:Mi riferisco al montaggio della presa del connettore di alimentazione montato sacrificanfdo una parte dell griglia di areazione! per non parlare dell'uso del saldatore istantaneo per saldare grossi conduttori rame! io avrei preferito un saldatore a stilo 80/100W pe fare sadsture ben fatte e non come le ha fatte Lei, mezze fredde! Inolytre sull'ingrsso rete al posto di una normale presa IEC sarebbe stata più indicata una presa IEC completa di filtro EMI! 73 de' IW8ckz!
++
THE PARTS ARE TO CRAMED IN A HARD TO GET AREA HOPE U DO NOT HAVE TO REPAIR
Lol that's true... I hope that it will work a loooong time without any failure hi 😄
@@OM0ET if you do need to repair it, I have no doubt that you are up to the challenge!
He says: "Total cost of this PSU project was about 40€ " But surely the cost of the 300VA toroidal transformer alone will be at least that! Then there's the smoothing capacitors, rectifier and box costs as well.
It's true. I bought this toroid for 12€ from bazaar.
the soldering paste you are using is a NO GO in electronics much too agressive
Too much agressive? How do you know what paste I use? Did I showed it in this video?
8:47 you are showing soldering paste, my friend again this is a NO GO sorry for the inconvenience
@@johanvandam2365 It's the Rosin or Colophony not a paste. And I use it for 20years without any sign of problem on electronic. It makes also a protective layer over the soldering iron and protect it from an oxidation... It's a solid form of resin obtained from pines and some other plants, mostly conifers and it uses here for decades... It's a very good thing. 73, Paul
Would have loved to watch this video all the way as I'm wanting to do a similar project. However, you didn't narrate the video as far as I watched so I bailed. Very sad. ALWAYS narrate your videos.
Great work.73s kg4acg