1966 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible restoration part 67 replacing u joints installing pig
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- I installed new u-joints in the driveshaft. One bearing cap was stuck on both joints. I even hammered on them, later in the day. They don't come off. That made a quick easy job, a pain. Thats just the way it goes.... Installed the carrier and the driveshaft. I filled the cooling system, because I cracked one of the water jugs, so I poured it into the radiator. Not wanting just water in the cooling system, I just added the antifreeze and water until it came out the upper heater outlet, then installed the hose, and topped off the radiator. I will need to check it once it's warmed up.
Tomorrow I hope to replace the axle bearings and install them, and maybe the brakes too. Still need to run the rear lines, and will try to get that done tomorrow also.
Hoping to install the exhaust system in the next few days, then overhaul the carburetor. It should then be ready to start for the first time in 44 years.
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I have to say, sir, your knees and back are better than mine! Nice work.
Your paint job is better than factory Ford no overspray on your excellent work
I sure enjoy watching you.renew this car to new condition. Thanks
I sure enjoy watching you.make this car new again. Thanks again
You might consider applying a small piece of colored tape onto the record button to help ensure you press the right button. It's coming together, Howard!
Ones on top, the other is on the front.... you think I would learn after awhile. Today I was stopping the camera when I thought I was starting it and starting it when I thought I was stopping it..... what next?!!!
This is going to be better than factory!
Hahaha... Awesome. Best sweatshirt on TH-cam, you need to sell them.
Nice work Howard. I have had days like the Sunday you just had. I miss having the old-style auto parts stores that had everything you needed, the counter people had experience and knew their stuff. Today we have all the big chain stores with no name parts (China) so you really have to look hard to find quality replacement parts. I go to auto parts swapmeets when they come around. I find new old stock from the days when we made our parts here in the United States Of America, the 1960s. Take care, Howard. I will be waiting for the next video.
The last of the old school auto parts I used, sold out to Auto Value corporate a couple months age. The guys that worked there knew car inside and out. Now there a bunch of 19 to 20 year olds that know NOTHING about cars, that work there. They know computers, to look parts up, but if it's not in there computer, there lost!
Time to watch and learn something. Where's my 🍿
I like the c clips that go between the joints rather than the type of clips that go on the outer edge. I like the ball joint tool, that’s a great tip for removing the bearing caps and you’re less likely to bend the ears on the yoke by hammering. I have to say your patience really carries the day. Bead blasting the yokes is a great idea, the clips will go right in without any drama.
I think some of the 70's GM u-joints were the biggest pain. They injected plastic into a grove that held the joint in. They had to be heated with a acetylene torch to melt the plastic out. The replacement used a c-clip.
As always looks good. Well done. This is going to be a fine ride. Love the galaxies. Wore out a 65. 2.of the 67s. Still have a 3rd 67 I bought in 1971. And now I have a 69 rag top as well. Like I say. I love them
Parents had a 1966 Ranch Wagon
My dad had a 66 Country Sedan (white with blue interior)... other than some trim, it's the same wagon.
The wagon was in a accident . It was replaced with a 67 LTD with a 390
Hey Howard...it's looking good everything coming together nicely .. I'm glad to see somebody other than me put an American Icon back together again..can't wait to hear it run and see how well the transmission performs..it will probably be fine..see you on the next one ...Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hard to admit, but I had no idea how you change a u joint...thank you for the tutoring!
BTW, I have found that Ace Hardware store is a great place for bolts.
Enjoyed
Fantastic job wish my health and heart would let me still do this stuff l hated to have to give it up . Keep up the good work sir.
A really great job!
Looking good, learning a lot from your videos.
Good idea to place the grease fittings on same side, I used this video to rebuild my dads 67 drive shaft. I wire brushed the shaft and painted mine. Do you have any idea why the factory painted stripes on the shaft? I would like to reproduce the stripes if possible. Again, nice video. I watch these while I work.
Im not sure why the strip is there, other than maybe color coding, so the guy on the assembly line could tell if it was an automatic or manual driveshaft.... they were slightly different in length.
'65 Galaxie guy here again.
Speaking of brake replacement, where did you find a rear axel split brake line where one line from the master cylinder divides into two, one for each rear wheel? I can't seem to find one anywhere. That darned brass fitting is the culprit.
I got it from Kustom Krafters. You need to grind the brass from the old one, to get the bracket off. The new part screws to the bracket. Kinda Micky Mouse, but it works ok.
@@OldCarAlley
I wish I could find a factory made replacement since I haven't upgraded my single piston master cylinder. I replaced it ten years ago along with all the rubber brake lines and slave cylinders, shoes, springs, etc. But I've never been able to find a factory made t-splitter hose combo for the rear.
It makes me nervous when I drive in traffic because if that old rubber hose ever broke, there would go my brakes.
But thanks for that info. I'll check 'em out.
Hey Howard what weight rear end oil you putting back in her? You got that diff looking like new! Getting closer to d-day can`t wait! Great vid ! Is the exhaust a direct fit? or will you have to fab on it a little?
I think the gear lube I have is 75W90. I will run it for a few hundred miles, then change it. The exhaust is suppose to be direct fit... but we will see. The brake lines were suppose to be direct fit, but the axle lines don't even come close to fitting. Got to make a trip to Inline Tubing today, with the original lines and the new ones that don't fit. Glad I kept the original lines!
Turning out great! My 64's rear end is leaking form the seal that goes between the pinion retainer housing and the third member. Is it possible to unbolt that part and reseal it with a new gasket, O ring and gasket maker? Since I would not remove the large nut I would not affect the crush sleeve preload - or am I wrong? Thanks!
That I don't know.... never tried to do what you want to do. I think there are shims there....
Do you have OEM mufflers? I was never able to find any for my '66 Galaxie. I sure liked the original ones that came with the car - they were so quiet you couldn't tell the car was running when it was idling. The replacements are quiet too, but not as quiet as the originals.
The ones I bought are suppose to be the same as OEM....
@@OldCarAlley I hope so. The replacements I got were a bit smaller/shorter than the originals. I'm sure it won't be a big deal anyway - as long as you don't put glasspacks on :-)
@@rloewen11 I am trying to make the car factory original.... glass packs don't cut that. The mufflers and right tail pipe were missing, so I have no idea if the new mufflers are the same or not. You will see them, when I install the exhaust system. Give me your thoughts of if you think there like the originals when you see the video.... maybe I will measure them in that video too.
I would have to say, it would've been alot easier if you used your hydraulic press...nice job though!!
The driveshaft is kinda awkward to get into the press, especially with all the crap I have in the garage. I seem to always use the ball joint tool for some reason, when I do them.
OMG...You're left handed! You're not a ginger too are you? Iol...
Actually I am right handed. I was a blond kid growing up, now what hair is left, is gray.