These years the door panels are complex enough that if you don't know what you're doing, you can really damage the components. In this example, someone clearly already busted and screwed into the door panel because they didn't know what they were doing. But Tony came to the rescue and know we all know how to perform this job ourselves. Thanks for sticking it through to the end.
Working on these door panels is surely an art. You really have to know how the pieces come apart before touching it or stuff will get broken. And, they are all different.
You are a whiz at this repair job. You know al lot about this subject. Thank God Charlie is there to film this. Without Charlie, we wouldn't see what you do. I hope Adam took care of you and Chalie of your time on the job and getting you tow bak and forth from your home and his.. Only look forward to your videos. I learn a lot.
Any chance we could see a in depth guid on installing weather stripping on a Mark V? Mine needs done as well as a whole host of other things. This channel is a gold mine though, keep up the work
I can't provide that at this time but when I do the video on the door panel removal and power vent window explaining I may be able to discuss a little bit of that. Thank you for watching!
I believe a stack of 3/8th nuts will fix that motor up just fine. I recall my father doing that to serval of the motors in our 1992 town car years ago. Watching as I had trouble removing my door panel in my 72. Didn’t realize the pad came up and out. My plastic was cracked and broken slightly worse so I just put it back together and decided to wait before digging in further
@@tonyscarcare5657 just wondering if it’s better to use the nuts at this point or if the replacements are just gonna break down over time again. Only looking to do this once and also have the car for many many more years. Hoping to get into it this week
Tony, I really appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work. Related to this video’s window motor issue, I have a question: Have you ever tried to add back the rear quarter power window motors that were eliminated from the Thunderbird for the ‘76 model year? (I know the elimination had some thing to do with the rollover standards, but…)
Honestly, that was nothing more than a cost cutting tactic. I'm sure it would be easy to remove them from an earlier model and add to the 76. I did that to my 78 Mercury 2 door.
@@tonyscarcare5657 So, you’ve already done this. Wow. Nothing like correcting history’s mistakes…. I knew if anybody could, it would be you. I’ve passed on buying a few ‘76 Thunderbirds over the years, just because Ford took away the power rear side windows.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m going to see if this is the problem with a 74 Mark IV I picked up. If so, do you have a reference or suggestions for the dowels?
You're welcome. If you hear the motor running but the window isn't moving, then, yes, this is the problem. I've been getting all of my torque pins off of Ebay. Thank you very much for watching and commenting!
@@RPPerformanceCycleCrownPoint they are all the same. www.ebay.com/itm/115538101439?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=K3ZRdcAETbu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RitHQGxcQy2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Is a 1997 Ford T-bird the same repair for passenger's window with window motor working but not going up? Do you have any parts I can buy for it? Thank you
interestingly the sedans from 71 seemed to have a similar but slightly less conveluted way to get the motor out, but also the door handles are integrated in such a way where all you need is a prop screw driver and a business screw driver to get the handle squares back on.
I have a 73 mustang and I’m replacing the motor. Like you said mustang don’t have a good access slit in the door. I have removed the screw on the left and center, but the third screw is on the other side and I am having to access from the speaker hole. My question is what is holding that motor in? Those three screws? I am concerned with getting it back together. I thought if I took the two 1/2” screws holding the bracket out the bracket and motor would come out together. Am I wrong?
You can take the motor and regulator out together. Do not attempt to take the regulator out after the motor has been taken off. The regulator has a big spring on it and you will have big problems.
I have a 78 MarkV same door panel going to replace the cracked section of arm rest panel as they all do. I’m wondering if you can give me more information about those clips. Part # if possible close up pic ? I want to have all parts and clips before I take it all apart. The video was very helpful
Guys, door panels and armrests for late 1960s early 1970s FoMoCos are notoriously weak. A factory repair manual would be invaluable to ensure that you aren't prying or pulling on something that wasn't intended to move. Protect your cars.
My windows work both ways but they shake as they come down , I’ve greased the metal guides and it’s still a problem I think it may be those white nylon guide bushing but I’ve not been able to find them . Any help would be appreciated thank you
Good evening my opera window motor is working but it doesn't open and close if that makes since also my passenger window motor is working but it is off track are these simple fixes?
I have a 1972 lincoln 4 door and my power windows just stop working on all of them after i started the car. then i turned off the car and turned key to accessory and the window went down and wont go back up. I tryed the other door switch and nothing worked and tryed the rear switch and nothing works. i checked the fuse and its good any ideas?
@tonyscarcare5657 Darn. I, too recently bought a 72 Mark IV and the windows don't roll down too much and the shop confirms its getting power to the switch and the motors appear to be good. I do have brand new motors just in case but the shop doesn't want to touch it saying the doors are too brittle and they don't want to risk breaking anything so I'm stuck. And being that it has no working cold AC makes it worse.
@tonyscarcare5657 basically...just outside the western city limits and I've had hell since I've gotten it almost two months ago. It's been in the shop since I had it. New rebuilt Ford carb and full tune up only to get it back a week ago and the new carb no good as it was running like crap so now it's getting a Edlebrock. Hopefully get it back next week.
I drove a mark 3 and the dam frame in the back before the frame turns up to clear the axel it broke and I was told that all mark 3s broke in the same area do to piss poor factory construction so don't try and tell me how great that pos mark 3 is.. Anyway, I'm definitely looking forward to purchasing a 72 mark IV way better design than the mark 3 ever wished of being in every aspect, the construction, the style and the whole esthetics of style and design the mark 3 is an ugly design mistake it wasn't carefully crafted to a masterfully elegant body flow like the mark IV is. You apparently do look like you exactly know your business very good video ...
@tonyscarcare5657 THE 72 MARK IV WAS THE HOME RUN IN THE LOOKS AND QUALITY, in fact the only thing that the 72 didn't have that the mark 3 had was the HP .However, that won't be a problem once I have my a very good friend of mine that's been building dirt modified race car engines for well over 50yrs and is a big FORD guy take care of the hp decline of the 72 yr of the mark IV hp issues , NOT to modify too much nothing over 400hp . Anyway, excuse me for not liking the mark 3 and it's issues, However, I am a FORD fan I don't agree with that Ralph Naders negative attacks on the American manufacturers. The pintos and the mavericks were damn good vehicles and the other manufacturers of that time were damn good too. I know very well, I lived those wonderful times and I remember the big three were putting out fabulous automobiles of the great old days of real stylish vehicles....
Another great video, Tony! I would not have known to take the armrest pad off either -- a great tip.
These years the door panels are complex enough that if you don't know what you're doing, you can really damage the components. In this example, someone clearly already busted and screwed into the door panel because they didn't know what they were doing. But Tony came to the rescue and know we all know how to perform this job ourselves. Thanks for sticking it through to the end.
My biggest fan! 😂
Tony is a patient and talented man.
The Master is at it again. Always enjoy watching the repair process.
Thanks Tony. I have a 72 MKIV that I need to re-assemble door trims and power windows etc so this will be very useful. 👍
Awesome.....thank you!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of the classic cars.
Much appreciated!
You're welcome. Thank you very much for watching and commenting!
Working on these door panels is surely an art. You really have to know how the pieces come apart before touching it or stuff will get broken. And, they are all different.
Tony is awesome! Thx Tony.
Thank you Adam!
Door trims can tax a persons nerves severely! Especially as they age and become more brittle. Nice to see the job done by a pro! Good call Adam.
thank you for sharing your expert knowledge with us. very informative 👏
You are a whiz at this repair job. You know al lot about this subject. Thank God Charlie is there to film this. Without Charlie, we wouldn't see what you do. I hope Adam took care of you and Chalie of your time on the job and getting you tow bak and forth from your home and his.. Only look forward to your videos. I learn a lot.
Thank you!
Thank you Sir!
Hey Tony nice repair
Thank you!
I buy those clips by the box from Au Ve Co and get the ones with the little foam pad whenever I go to the junkyard as nobody makes them
Any chance we could see a in depth guid on installing weather stripping on a Mark V? Mine needs done as well as a whole host of other things. This channel is a gold mine though, keep up the work
I can't provide that at this time but when I do the video on the door panel removal and power vent window explaining I may be able to discuss a little bit of that. Thank you for watching!
I believe a stack of 3/8th nuts will fix that motor up just fine. I recall my father doing that to serval of the motors in our 1992 town car years ago. Watching as I had trouble removing my door panel in my 72. Didn’t realize the pad came up and out. My plastic was cracked and broken slightly worse so I just put it back together and decided to wait before digging in further
I used nuts long before I knew the plastic replacements were available.
@@tonyscarcare5657 just wondering if it’s better to use the nuts at this point or if the replacements are just gonna break down over time again. Only looking to do this once and also have the car for many many more years. Hoping to get into it this week
@@ce5243 I've never had to replace them twice.
You could bolt in the chrome part of the door handle. Before the installing the big plastic overlay part.
Tony, I really appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work.
Related to this video’s window motor issue, I have a question: Have you ever tried to add back the rear quarter power window motors that were eliminated from the Thunderbird for the ‘76 model year? (I know the elimination had some thing to do with the rollover standards, but…)
Honestly, that was nothing more than a cost cutting tactic. I'm sure it would be easy to remove them from an earlier model and add to the 76. I did that to my 78 Mercury 2 door.
@@tonyscarcare5657 So, you’ve already done this. Wow. Nothing like correcting history’s mistakes…. I knew if anybody could, it would be you. I’ve passed on buying a few ‘76 Thunderbirds over the years, just because Ford took away the power rear side windows.
I talk about that in this video here. 👇
th-cam.com/video/rGvzfJhYqUs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UKv_o4EkmpL7I_qe
@@tonyscarcare5657 Thank you sir.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m going to see if this is the problem with a 74 Mark IV I picked up. If so, do you have a reference or suggestions for the dowels?
You're welcome. If you hear the motor running but the window isn't moving, then, yes, this is the problem. I've been getting all of my torque pins off of Ebay. Thank you very much for watching and commenting!
I don’t see the correct torque pins listed on EBay for my 74 Mark IV. Can you please share the name or link on EBay for the pins?
@@RPPerformanceCycleCrownPoint they are all the same.
www.ebay.com/itm/115538101439?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=K3ZRdcAETbu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RitHQGxcQy2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Is a 1997 Ford T-bird the same repair for passenger's window with window motor working but not going up?
Do you have any parts I can buy for it?
Thank you
It's the same. You can get them on ebay.
And now would be the time to repair the armrest...
It definitely would have been for sure! I wish I'd known it needed it before I got there.
interestingly the sedans from 71 seemed to have a similar but slightly less conveluted way to get the motor out, but also the door handles are integrated in such a way where all you need is a prop screw driver and a business screw driver to get the handle squares back on.
I've worked on those as well.
I have a 73 mustang and I’m replacing the motor. Like you said mustang don’t have a good access slit in the door.
I have removed the screw on the left and center, but the third screw is on the other side and I am having to access from the speaker hole.
My question is what is holding that motor in? Those three screws? I am concerned with getting it back together. I thought if I took the two 1/2” screws holding the bracket out the bracket and motor would come out together. Am I wrong?
You can take the motor and regulator out together. Do not attempt to take the regulator out after the motor has been taken off. The regulator has a big spring on it and you will have big problems.
Great vid can you tell me the door panel clips you said to get from Napa auto parts I’m in desperate need of those clips
Yes, you can get any of those door panel clips from Napa.
I have a 78 MarkV same door panel going to replace the cracked section of arm rest panel as they all do. I’m wondering if you can give me more information about those clips. Part # if possible close up pic ? I want to have all parts and clips before I take it all apart. The video was very helpful
The clips are the same as all the door panel clips, and you can walk in Napa with one of them, and they'll show you the package you need.
Guys, door panels and armrests for late 1960s early 1970s FoMoCos are notoriously weak. A factory repair manual would be invaluable to ensure that you aren't prying or pulling on something that wasn't intended to move. Protect your cars.
Tony, the name you were trying to remember at 20:13 is Tim Nill.
Yep that's it! Thanks John.
I need to re-wrap the pull straps on mine. Does the whole panel need to come off to remove the straps or can they be removed from the front?
The whole panel has to come off. There are nuts on the back.
I thought so… it couldn’t be easy! Thank you for your very informative video!!
@@swilliams9213 you're welcome. Thank you!
Hi Tony, Im wondering if power window regulators/assembly’s are the same between 73/74 - 75/78 Ford LTD’s? Would you know?
Yes they certainly are! Thanks for watching!
My windows work both ways but they shake as they come down , I’ve greased the metal guides and it’s still a problem I think it may be those white nylon guide bushing but I’ve not been able to find them . Any help would be appreciated thank you
1978 thunderbird jubilee coupe , my factory doors look nearly exactly
@@NoiseBoysGarage did you grease where the regulator slides to raise and lower the window?
Just wondering if this works on a 77-79 continental as well
Yes, it sure does. There will be more videos about the later years coming up. Thanks for watching!
"that"s why you called me"
Good evening my opera window motor is working but it doesn't open and close if that makes since also my passenger window motor is working but it is off track are these simple fixes?
This video explains how you need to fix them.
I have a 1972 lincoln 4 door and my power windows just stop working on all of them after i started the car. then i turned off the car and turned key to accessory and the window went down and wont go back up. I tryed the other door switch and nothing worked and tryed the rear switch and nothing works. i checked the fuse and its good any ideas?
There's a good chance it's the relay. I'd think it would be on the firewall, but not 100% without seeing a wire diagram.
Ok i well check the relay and see if its bad . thank you
@@AndrewF150 you're welcome.
It was the relay. I put a new one in and now all windows are working . thank you for your help
Awesome! Thank you for letting me know.
How to install a side window on a Mercury 2-door Marquis 1975-1978
Well, I've done that, but I don't have one in need of it now.
You didn’t replace the grease?
It had more than enough grease in it.
Tony where are you located? Are you near Chicagoland?
Way South and West. Down in Vandalia. East of St. Louis.
@tonyscarcare5657 Darn. I, too recently bought a 72 Mark IV and the windows don't roll down too much and the shop confirms its getting power to the switch and the motors appear to be good. I do have brand new motors just in case but the shop doesn't want to touch it saying the doors are too brittle and they don't want to risk breaking anything so I'm stuck. And being that it has no working cold AC makes it worse.
@@Chitwn81 are you in Chicago?
@tonyscarcare5657 basically...just outside the western city limits and I've had hell since I've gotten it almost two months ago. It's been in the shop since I had it. New rebuilt Ford carb and full tune up only to get it back a week ago and the new carb no good as it was running like crap so now it's getting a Edlebrock. Hopefully get it back next week.
@@Chitwn81 dang!
I wish you had repaired the plastic piece that is cracked ,renforce with a metal screw glued into the back side , use the best glue not super glue
I was not prepared for that when I'm 500 miles from home and was asked to go there to repair a window. I have repaired many arm rests in my time.
I drove a mark 3 and the dam frame in the back before the frame turns up to clear the axel it broke and I was told that all mark 3s broke in the same area do to piss poor factory construction so don't try and tell me how great that pos mark 3 is.. Anyway, I'm definitely looking forward to purchasing a 72 mark IV way better design than the mark 3 ever wished of being in every aspect, the construction, the style and the whole esthetics of style and design the mark 3 is an ugly design mistake it wasn't carefully crafted to a masterfully elegant body flow like the mark IV is. You apparently do look like you exactly know your business very good video ...
In all my Lincoln days, I have never heard of a Mark III frame breaking anywhere. How old was it, and was it in a lot of salt?
@tonyscarcare5657 IN fact I was told by a major Ford guy who loved old lincons and it is a common accurance with the ugly shit box...
I've also never heard anyone call a Mark III ugly. They were a home run in sales.
@@tonyscarcare5657 NO THEY WERE NOT... THE THUNDERBIRD WAS NOT THE MARK 3.
@tonyscarcare5657 THE 72 MARK IV WAS THE HOME RUN IN THE LOOKS AND QUALITY, in fact the only thing that the 72 didn't have that the mark 3 had was the HP .However, that won't be a problem once I have my a very good friend of mine that's been building dirt modified race car engines for well over 50yrs and is a big FORD guy take care of the hp decline of the 72 yr of the mark IV hp issues , NOT to modify too much nothing over 400hp . Anyway, excuse me for not liking the mark 3 and it's issues, However, I am a FORD fan I don't agree with that Ralph Naders negative attacks on the American manufacturers. The pintos and the mavericks were damn good vehicles and the other manufacturers of that time were damn good too. I know very well, I lived those wonderful times and I remember the big three were putting out fabulous automobiles of the great old days of real stylish vehicles....