My research agrees with yours regarding the production of this transmission by country. When you apply the conductive grease (again, not dielectric grease which is an insulator), you are aiming for the base of the pin in its hole. Note that with heat and vibration, that grease will, by capillary action, find its way into the entire circumference of the hole. Be very sparing!
Hi, is your son's car still running well? I'm having the same issue with my Ford Fiesta 2014, code shows a P090C-00 P090C, and it says it's the B clutch, but I've seen other videos where other people replace it, but it still fails. I wonder if I should do what's recommended in this video first, to improve the earthing of the vehicle and apply carbon conductive grease to the B pins , before changing the B actuator. Any advice? Thank you
Thats interesting, never thought of conductive grease. I am trying to repair a Renault Clio TCM which looks exactly the same, obviously the software is different but I bought a TCM from a Focus to experiment how to get into the thing. I have got it apart in the same way you did. However Im really wanting to get the top board off really just to see if its possible. I too have seem those asian repairs using crowbars to get these apart but thats not for me, Im surprised they don't break tracks of components let alone the PCB through hole plating. Thing is I really want to solder all the press fit connections including on the bottom board so that will involve taking the bottom board off the chassis connectors. Im not expecting success which is why I am using a focus unit to experiment on before I go anywhere near my operating but intermittent Renault. Im going to try some fine SS syringe needle tube to see if I can compress the pins or maybe twist them in the hope that collapses the expanded part in the pin. If I cant practically get it apart I'll try the conductive grease idea on mine but I don't think I will be able to get at some of the lower pins. Worst comes to the worst I'll have to get a new one but hopefully learnt something along the way. By the way when I took mine apart that black box with a coil in it next to the motor stayed on the lower board, what disconnected from the other side of that box is a electrolytic capacitor which is rtv'd to the case but the wires are only connected by insulation displacement type pins like the coil, so Im surprised yours came off the press-fit pins.
With some patience, maybe those barbed pins can be collapsed? I don't like the idea. Those Asian fellas could get things apart with crowbars, but none admitted to having it ever operate again! Solder would be great, but geez! What a high risk job. Fiddly af too.
@@jl991825 Agree, FYI the pins are not barbed they are expanded so in principle they should slide but I suspect it would be very hard on the through plating still. I will update this thread if I discover anything positive.
Good day sir how's the tcm now? May I know if the conductive grease is the Thermal Conductive Grease? Like the conductive grease for the computers processor?? Thanks
Hi there. TCM is still going. To answer your question, no. They are not the same. Thermal conductive greases are often non-conductive. You need a high conductive, high temperature grease compound.
Hey mate, it sure is! Approximately 3000km with my son driving it in city and suburban driving. It's definitely fixed. What I might have done differently is apply the conductive grease to ALL of the pinned contacts as insurance against future failure, but hey, it's quite easy to get out of the car, and RTV is easier to split than the rubber glue they used at the factory.
@@jl991825 Thanks for this Vid. I have just picked up a Focus with a P090C so ill give this a go. FYI the cars are still under warranty at the Ford dealer for a replacement TCM if you present a car with this code, but there's about a 10 day lead time.
@schmick63 Good luck. Don't get too frustrated with getting the case open. Regarding Ford: this was my first port of call. They wanted a $200 diagnostic fee, and would not commit to it being under warranty despite my direct questioning on the phone. The service manager also tried to convince me that the problem could be clutches, servos or the "slave cylinder ". Ha, right. As if it's got a slave cylinder. My brother in law had a similar experience in Brisbane before giving up and selling me the car.
@@jl991825 I buy and repair a few of these DPS6 cars. As you are aware, a P090C is an electrical circuit code. I can't see how any Ford tech can say its a possible clutch. The only other possibility which is a 1 in 100 would be a dodgy actuator. This is an easy test though as swapping them would show if the code moved and you had your reverse back. As for Ford questioning your TCM replacement, show them your VIN inputted into the Ford Australia website and its eligibility for warranty. I have a dealer near me who changes them with no issues however its taken a while to school them. I hear what you are saying though, I just picked up a Fiesta that the owners had taken to Ford and all they attempted was a clutch relearn. It has 2 TCM internal fault codes and nothing else. As for the 'slave cylinder', this is what the yanks refer to the throw out bearing as.
@schmick63 the dealers are hit and miss. As an engineer, I was looking to discover the root cause of the internal TCM issue as indicated by the fault code (after swapping the actuators to rule that out). Knowing that the circuit boards are pinned together, rather than soldered, I was fairly confident that heat, vibration and oxidation could cause a high resistance connection at the pinned connections. Who wants to solder when you can just carefully dab some carbon grease on each pinned connection. Be very careful not to use too much (for obvious reasons - you dont know if it will run and form new circuits!)
...and so many anecdotal accounts of these parts being replaced, then failing a few months later. Terrible design! Heat and vibration transmits directly to this unit as its solidly mounted, and the internal components aren't soldered. What could possibly go wrong?!? Hopefully the conductive grease will maintain those circuits as required. *update* car has now done 30km fault free in traffic.
My research agrees with yours regarding the production of this transmission by country. When you apply the conductive grease (again, not dielectric grease which is an insulator), you are aiming for the base of the pin in its hole. Note that with heat and vibration, that grease will, by capillary action, find its way into the entire circumference of the hole. Be very sparing!
Hi, is your son's car still running well? I'm having the same issue with my Ford Fiesta 2014, code shows a P090C-00 P090C, and it says it's the B clutch, but I've seen other videos where other people replace it, but it still fails. I wonder if I should do what's recommended in this video first, to improve the earthing of the vehicle and apply carbon conductive grease to the B pins , before changing the B actuator. Any advice? Thank you
I've sent you an email. For others who read comments, still going after 20k km.
Thats interesting, never thought of conductive grease. I am trying to repair a Renault Clio TCM which looks exactly the same, obviously the software is different but I bought a TCM from a Focus to experiment how to get into the thing. I have got it apart in the same way you did. However Im really wanting to get the top board off really just to see if its possible. I too have seem those asian repairs using crowbars to get these apart but thats not for me, Im surprised they don't break tracks of components let alone the PCB through hole plating. Thing is I really want to solder all the press fit connections including on the bottom board so that will involve taking the bottom board off the chassis connectors. Im not expecting success which is why I am using a focus unit to experiment on before I go anywhere near my operating but intermittent Renault. Im going to try some fine SS syringe needle tube to see if I can compress the pins or maybe twist them in the hope that collapses the expanded part in the pin. If I cant practically get it apart I'll try the conductive grease idea on mine but I don't think I will be able to get at some of the lower pins. Worst comes to the worst I'll have to get a new one but hopefully learnt something along the way. By the way when I took mine apart that black box with a coil in it next to the motor stayed on the lower board, what disconnected from the other side of that box is a electrolytic capacitor which is rtv'd to the case but the wires are only connected by insulation displacement type pins like the coil, so Im surprised yours came off the press-fit pins.
With some patience, maybe those barbed pins can be collapsed? I don't like the idea. Those Asian fellas could get things apart with crowbars, but none admitted to having it ever operate again! Solder would be great, but geez! What a high risk job. Fiddly af too.
@@jl991825 Agree, FYI the pins are not barbed they are expanded so in principle they should slide but I suspect it would be very hard on the through plating still. I will update this thread if I discover anything positive.
Pls... How to fix this.. I have me too this problem 1-3-5 can help me?? 25 to fix
Unless you have no eyesight, or have a crippling injury, maybe also cerebral palsy, you can do this repair yourself.
Good day sir how's the tcm now? May I know if the conductive grease is the Thermal Conductive Grease? Like the conductive grease for the computers processor?? Thanks
Hi there. TCM is still going. To answer your question, no. They are not the same. Thermal conductive greases are often non-conductive. You need a high conductive, high temperature grease compound.
Still running well?
Hey mate, it sure is! Approximately 3000km with my son driving it in city and suburban driving. It's definitely fixed. What I might have done differently is apply the conductive grease to ALL of the pinned contacts as insurance against future failure, but hey, it's quite easy to get out of the car, and RTV is easier to split than the rubber glue they used at the factory.
@@jl991825 Thanks for this Vid. I have just picked up a Focus with a P090C so ill give this a go. FYI the cars are still under warranty at the Ford dealer for a replacement TCM if you present a car with this code, but there's about a 10 day lead time.
@schmick63 Good luck. Don't get too frustrated with getting the case open. Regarding Ford: this was my first port of call. They wanted a $200 diagnostic fee, and would not commit to it being under warranty despite my direct questioning on the phone. The service manager also tried to convince me that the problem could be clutches, servos or the "slave cylinder ". Ha, right. As if it's got a slave cylinder. My brother in law had a similar experience in Brisbane before giving up and selling me the car.
@@jl991825 I buy and repair a few of these DPS6 cars. As you are aware, a P090C is an electrical circuit code. I can't see how any Ford tech can say its a possible clutch. The only other possibility which is a 1 in 100 would be a dodgy actuator. This is an easy test though as swapping them would show if the code moved and you had your reverse back. As for Ford questioning your TCM replacement, show them your VIN inputted into the Ford Australia website and its eligibility for warranty. I have a dealer near me who changes them with no issues however its taken a while to school them. I hear what you are saying though, I just picked up a Fiesta that the owners had taken to Ford and all they attempted was a clutch relearn. It has 2 TCM internal fault codes and nothing else. As for the 'slave cylinder', this is what the yanks refer to the throw out bearing as.
@schmick63 the dealers are hit and miss. As an engineer, I was looking to discover the root cause of the internal TCM issue as indicated by the fault code (after swapping the actuators to rule that out). Knowing that the circuit boards are pinned together, rather than soldered, I was fairly confident that heat, vibration and oxidation could cause a high resistance connection at the pinned connections. Who wants to solder when you can just carefully dab some carbon grease on each pinned connection. Be very careful not to use too much (for obvious reasons - you dont know if it will run and form new circuits!)
Ffs... No wonder the dealership always just replaces and tosses stuff.
...and so many anecdotal accounts of these parts being replaced, then failing a few months later. Terrible design! Heat and vibration transmits directly to this unit as its solidly mounted, and the internal components aren't soldered. What could possibly go wrong?!? Hopefully the conductive grease will maintain those circuits as required. *update* car has now done 30km fault free in traffic.