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VW A4: 1.9L ALH TDI Thermostat replacement (full)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2016
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Thomas
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Hi Thomas. I have to say your work is great, this is the best & most comprehensive job I have seen. You sir are a true credit to mechanics!
Kind of you to say... thank you and thank you for watching!
I just changed my thermostat tonight with your video help. It took me about 15 mins. I had the second thermostat ready to go before I pulled out the old one... As soon as I pulled out the old one I stuck in the new one and only lost maybe a half a quart of coolant down the side. The hardest part was finding the replacement coolant. There seems to be no G12 anywhere and I really didn't want to mix any colors. Which is why I didn't want to lose any coolant. The other thing I noticed but not until after I put the new thermostat housing back in and tried to torque it. One of the holes for the bolt did not have a metal insert so It kept tightening through the plastic. This is unfortunate because the housing was special ordered from another store and now the only way for me to get a new one is to order it online. Anyway I wanted to post a thank you for your help... and to let everyone else know to make sure you check your new housing for a metal insert for the bolt so you don't torque it into the plastic.
Thank you for watching... sorry to hear about the flange. The old one can be reused if it is not distorted due to overheating. G13 (current version of coolant) is backward compatible with the old G12 and even G11.
Very very helpful video. Squeeze, Pinch, Release, Release and repeat and it goes so easy! Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Never though I could learn so much about this "simple" task in a video
Thank you, and you got one more subscriber
Thank you for watching & subscribing!
Nice job. Bleeder screws make filling the cooling system so much easier. Constant monitoring the cooling system during refill gets a thumbs up from me because that is realistic! I thought i was the only guy that washes off the old coolant before adding new stuff! lol Happy New Year Tom
Bleeder screws can help, but even then, trapped air is a concern... I use my vacuum fill setup when I know that I will run into an issue. Washing off makes leaks easier to spot and it won't drip residual coolant when the customer parks it at home (which is more important). Happy new year to you & yours Ozz!
daaamn...
and i was thinking f changing it myself... Now i got to look for a service or a garage around, since i am in a new city
nice, informative and comprehensive video
Thank you for watching!
Excellent. I like the dialogue as you watch the temperature come up. Thanks ...
Thank you for watching!
usually mechanics don't take that much time to analyze that all systems are working as it should
They just replace the part and voila!
Well done
Jorge Aspron It's in their best interest to do so... chance to sell more, but also to assure the customer that all is well. Seems sad that some guys don't bother to check. =(
Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
The comment about the extra seal in the box is very helpful. Was really wondering why i have that extra seal. and it doesn't fit tight. so doing the RTV method same as you. Cheers!
Thank you for watching!
Hi,
I had the problem that the watertemperature of my Golf 4 ALH never reached 90 degrees. After 30km of high rpms and high motorload it only reached 70-80 degrees and the two cooling hoses didn't had the same temperature. So the thermostat was f*cked up.
So i searched on the internet where this thing sits and thank god, i found your channel.
I'm good in mechanical things (I guess), but its good to see someone doing all the steps and explains whats really important.
Just replaced it today and cooling system works fine now. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work!
Greetings from Austria. ;)
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Happy new year, Thomas. I need to get myself that hose clamp pliers. I just drain/fill my Q7 and used the shop vac to remove additional old coolant.
Happy new year! All the best to you & yours! Those pliers are great! I forgot to add the link to the "tool of the day" links to the description (I just did). Links to similar tools via Amazon or ebay are in those descriptions.
this garage has everything
LOL... not quite.
happy TDI engine sound.....the best.
Fahrvergnügen!
Hi Thomas, greeting from a Bby lifer! funny how the world works sometimes. Anyway, I read about 95% of the comments in this thread. Thank you for your dedication to all those out there whom you took the time to reply to. That's pretty cool. and I cant figure out what youre supposed to learn in 10 years either so don't sweat it.. he said it himself...
yesterday was an adventure. I was in Victoria on an errand run and well, I got stuck in traffic jam on the #1 heading north. There's a nasty snarl at gold river park where the road washed out last year and they are in the midst of repairs. The bottle neck this has created leaves a 5km back up and it was at least 30C on the asphalt as everyone inched their way through this shit mess. plenty of others sidelined by the heat and hoods up.....
About and hour into this gong show the temp light came on. I knew pretty much what was going on. something popped. I had no choice but to run hot. and probably very low on coolant. Once i cleared the jam i drove the car to Parksville nonstop. She ran okay, never exceeding 90C on the gauge ( i even got it to hit 80C at one point) but when I pulled over it was steaming. I let it cool, topped it off haphazardly, filled a jug with extra water and set out for home another 100km north. I made it home with one stop for a top up. The car starts and sounds okay today. What happened was that the bleeder hose from the head to the first T ruptured and turned into a squirter. Ive replaced this short length of hose and will refill the system in the am as per what i saw in your vid and I do have a new stat to install... Im not sure at what temp it opens tho... The sales guy was a little vague... and I may have to research it. To make a long story short...... This car has never made heat, its always run cold on the gauge and last winter the needle barely 'left the left'. Ive read most of the comments and cant quite find what I was looking for. I was hoping to save you from having to reply but... here we are. . What would be your procedure to diagnose all the possible problems that might cause the no heat issue. i suppose the pressurized hose is the best way to diagnose a bad headgskt? what about the water pump? any tricks for that one? Id be grateful for some pointers This jetta is an amazing machine but shes getting old and the wrinkles are starting to show. well done on the vid too btw. So simple a monkey could fix this! Cheers! Rich. next up.. the timing belt with 189,000km on it. yeesh.
Sorry to hear about the cooling system issue. Fix the leaks and then check for proper system function. It's common that plastic fittings fail from age... so don't assume the worst just yet. Once the leaks are fixed run the engine at idle till the fans come on. This verifies that the thermostat, fans & electrics are fine. Once the fans have turned on / off once, let the engine cool off overnight. The next day, check for pressure in the cooling system (squeeze rad hose to see if it is firm and check if pressure vents out of the reservoir bottle when you remove the cap). If no pressure is present, then the head gasket is probably ok. Lack of heat inside the car could be 1 of a number of things. Bad water pump, bad hot / cold blend door lever inside the heater box, plugged heater core or stuck open thermostat.
@@EXOVCDS awesome start. Thanks a bunch. Not many like you. Over night replies on a 5 year old thread.... +1!
I watched about 6 hours of your content last night. Im going to check (drill out) the intercooler as well and inspect the egr. Ive been meaning to look at it for a while but tackling a german car without any prior knowledge is a questionable practice. Here we go! I'll drop back in once ive performed your suggestions.
@@EXOVCDS I changed out the t-stat. The old one was opening and closing at 65C° +/-. ( probly the original. Its got the audi logo on it and funny enough an open temp marking of 87C°...) The new one starts to open at about 80C° and is full open at 89C° then full close again at 80. I'll assume 65 is similar to "stuck open"
I looked inside the egr valve and its black & wet.
Drilled out the IC box and its dry. No oil or water coming out. So far so good. (I guess) I didn't have hose clamp pliers so a built one. Lol. Its hoacky but it worked.. Anyway, fill up time and run in today.
@@signwriter5888 thank you for the update!
@@EXOVCDS she's all back together and running well. I might actually get some cabin heat now...! too bad theres no way to share pics. I had to make a hose clamp tool and a new oil dipstick tube. The dipstick broke off and so yeah. I really didn't want to go to the wreckers... my solution will outlast any plastic one 100 to 1!
Gauge read 90C° pretty much steady now. Is this the normal reading?
As always your the man.
Thank you... thank you for watching!
Thank you for the very well made video
Thank you and thank you for watching!
I like the syphon method. I usually just used the pressure tester to pressurize the system, then when I release it, it must start the syphon because the level drops. Although I'm looking at getting a vacuum filler, they are nice.
For the most part I use the vacuum fill on engines that I know are a little bit temperamental... or on engines that I am not too familiar with. It provides a huge piece of mind when you see all the collapsed hoses fill with coolant! =)
Bon travail monsieur
Merci
AWESOME VIDEO THOMAS....THANKYOU !
Thank you for watching!
Happy New year Thomas
Happy New Year Richard!
Great work man 👌
Thank you for watching!
Gread vid! Keep up the good work!
Thank you for watching!
Awesome video
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Great video just subscribed. i have a 99 beetle with the tdi {my fist} and it has the continuous blue temp light on. I did some research and came up with a sticking thermostat or a bad temp censor. Anyway, great video and thank you.
Hi, yes... probably a bad temperature sensor.
S C ok, that makes sense! Thanks
Checked the heater and blower as you told me, heat was on, themostat changed. Changed the fan but still does not come on by more then 100degrees. Funyly both funs come on when the engine is tured off.
Does the lower radiator hose get warm / hot? If you manually trigger low speed at the radiator fan switch... does the temperature stay below 100c? th-cam.com/video/Roh6RCs8IJk/w-d-xo.html
I've been wrestling with coolant hoses on the VR6 all evening. Man those things stick on after a while.
Some hoses are actually glued into place by the factory! WTF
Great video! Been having a hard time getting my 03 Golf SDI to open the thermostat, and switch the fans on following replacement of the radiator, thermostat and coolant. I'll try a fast idle and hopefully it will open this time.
Did you check for coolant flow (back into the coolant reservoir) as indicated at 13:55?
@@EXOVCDS Thank you for the reply, I did check for that yes. After filling as much as I could with a cold engine I started the car and had return flow almost immediately. Car warms up very slowly and temp gauge just sits at 90, with the heater off everything except the radiator and lower hose get hot to the point where you can only hold your hand for a few seconds, if you drive the car, it cools off. The only thing that I can think I missed is the fast idle to warm the last few degrees to get the thermostat open and the fans on. I do question maybe if the water pump flow is 100% of what it should be, If I pinch the return hose, I do get a little pressure building though. I'm going to try the fast idle today watching the temp gauge very closely, I guess it will either work or reveal a bad water pump or outside chance a broken out of the box thermostat. Worth noting that I did this work outside in about 5c, so that may be the simplest explanation.
@@EXOVCDS Tried the fast idle today, after 20 mins the radiator and lower hose began to get hot, coolant level dropped slightly. After another 10 mins the radiator and both hoses were as hot as everything else. After another 10 mins the radiator and lower hose had cooled off again, it was 9c today but with a strong wind which I think must have cooled the radiator off lol. I had good return flow the whole time, and the temp gauge sat at 90 the whole time. Fan fuse and contacts looked fine, might have to wait for the weather to warm up to verify the fans work. Thank you once again for the video.
Diesels will take a long time for the thermostat to open & the radiator fans to come one... this is normal. If you want to manually trigger the fans (just to see if they actually work) try this:
th-cam.com/video/Roh6RCs8IJk/w-d-xo.html
As long as you have heat inside, the water pump is OK.
Return flow into the reservoir is only important for bleeding purposes. Once all the air is out of the engine, a blocked / pinched return hose will not do any damage / affect the system.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks again for the reply, yes I had good heat inside the car. I'll do the fan tests you showed in the other video and see what I get.
Thank you Thomas , perfect ex;lanations
Thank you for watching!
Very good video
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for your reply. Model VW mk4 deasel. Yes it does overheat. Tried the jumping rest from that three pin connector but it did not start nor on slow speed niether on fast speed. Checked the 30 amp fuse, was ok, the far right of the large fuses is blown out but I thing it has nothing to do with the fans. Do you think the fan needs to be changed?
PS. The small fan worked when I did the jumping in the connector but it does not start when the engine is on, it starts on slow speed when the engine is turned off. Any clue what is wrong?
Carmel Cassar When the engine is hot, do you have heat inside the car? Turn the heater & blower on high. If heat goes away, the water pump is bad. If heat stays hot, the thermostat is stuck closed. Always replace blown fuses... there is always a chance that it affects the cooling system circuits.
Another Awesome Video .
Very informative detailed video
Thomas Rules
Thomas are you still in Burnaby ?
Thank for the kind words.... thank you for watching.
Yes, I'm in the area.
I like the professional version of the Steve Rob caulking gun. What make of vacuum set up do you normally use? It's time I got one.
Mine is a snap-on... no matter the brand, you'll like how much time it can save!
Thanks for the detailed video, Thomas. Would a temperature reading of 70°C (previously at 90°) indicate a faulty thermostat?
Depends... a couple of easy checks can be made. A bad (opening early) thermostat will allow coolant to circulate early through the radiator, causing the lower (outlet) hose to be warm before the engine has reached operating temperature. If your lower radiator hose is warm when your scan tool or the dash gauge indicate 70c, then yes, the thermostat is opening early. If you let the engine idle until coolant temperature is 90c to 95c (or the coolant fans turn on) and then drive the vehicle at a steady cruising speed... a bad thermostat will cause coolant temperature to drop below 80c (visible drop in temperature gauge needle position). A good thermostat, will keep the temperature needle at 90c position once the engine has reached operating temperature.
Followed this pretty much to the tee. Only problem I had was the blowers kept going cold unless I revved the car, then they would blow hot. Took ages but eventually got the car to 98 degrees and the rad fans came on. Didn't seam to have a lot of flow unless the car was revved?
TDI's will take a long time to warm up (thermostat opens & fans come on).... if the system was bled well enough, you should have had heat soon & consistently. Lack of heat or no heat until revved, indicates air in the system. You may have to top up the coolant after the engine has cooled off.
Good job mate 😉
Thanks!
Thomas, great videos. Going to do this next week. Genuine VW parts or aftermarket? Your opinion please
Can't go wrong with genuine... but aftermarket is good too. Buy from a VW specialty parts store... they will have good aftermarket or genuine at reasonable prices.
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you... thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
Yep, I just followed your video and replaced the thermostat with no problem. I wouldn't have finished it as quickly as I did if it wasn't for you showing the "gotchas". Keep up the good work!
Can I ask.missus had a leak so filled the car up in an emergency with water.it froze that night and when she started it if made a weird noise.was it the water pump and if it was the pump would I still get pressure in the pipes because I've replaced the rad but either water pumps gone or could the thermostat but stuck closed.i can't get any heat out the heaters and today when I put the cap on the bottle the pipes swelled up and something gave cause steam started coming out a joint.
If you have no heat inside the car, the water pump is bad.
I got a 2000 tdi jetta and no matter how much coolant i put in the level will always drop from the bottle and every once in a while the coolant light will turn off on the cluster and ill go out and look and there will be coolant in the bottle for a minute then it will drain away again. Very rarely after the car being running for a while will both radiator hoses be warm let alone the hoses to the heater core - it only works once in a blue moon which bites here in wyoming right now smh but im just not sure if i have a bad thermostat or if theres something else going on? Ive put about two bottles of coolant in it since i got it on the 18th and im half way through the third bottle now
A thermostat can / will solve a "lack of heat" problem... but it will not solve a "coolant leak" (unless the leak is from the thermostat flange). If you can not find a coolant leak anywhere, then the coolant might be leaking into the exhaust through the EGR cooler... or there is a problem with the head gasket. Most of the time it is a coolant leak from one of the coolant flanges or an oil soaked coolant hose that has a small pin hole. Look for a leak, fix the leak and replace the thermostat... you should have good heat then.
might replace my thermostat one of these days. seems like it opens too much in this cold. thanks for the guide!
Common failure item... same amount of failure in the summer, you just notice it more in the winter. =)
@@EXOVCDS Why would you notice it more in the summer? Thanks!
I mean winter, lol
@@smallslt6930 you notice lack of heat more in the winter than in the summer... because summer weather is generally already warm.
Haha my wife is reading a book and thought I was watching a duck hunting video. She said what's with all the ducks , I said what ducks it's a thermostat change. LOL
The older TDI's can be a bit noisy when you're close to them! LOL
Good video, I have a SEAT Córdoba 1.9 TDI ALH of 90 hp, the temperature did not indicate well (it took it slow) and it marked 60 degrees Celsius and sometimes 70, 90 also but it went down, etc. I changed the thermostat and now it reads 90 degrees without any previous failure. Since if you don't change it in the future there could be more serious problems like the head gasket. Regards!
No head gasket problem... because the thermostat was opening early (engine temperature cooler). When thermostat opens late, temperature gets hotter... then it is possible to have head gasket damage. Your engine will be fine.
@@EXOVCDS That's why I changed it, it wasn't difficult but what is more difficult than changing the thermostat is the ARL engines (1.9 TDI 150 hp). Mine wasn't because of the head gasket, much less, but because it opened too early and didn't reach the right temperature, so I changed it to avoid future problems. Out of curiosity SEAT is a Spanish brand of Volkswagen group vehicles and the video that you changed the thermostat (VW Jetta or Bora in Europe) has the same engine as mine but the coolant tank is on the right, same mechanics too. It now has 245,000 km (152,000 miles) it could still do a lot of km and they are very reliable. Thank you very much for the answer and greetings from Spain.
Hey Thomas, how much does a thermostat replacement typically take? Like on an ALH, you don't need to remove the alternator, while on some VW models, you need to remove it, or some other hardware, so I'm just curious how many hours it pays
Mitchell labor guide lists 1.5hrs (1.1hrs warranty) for the ALH... the guide is not always realistic. Some of my videos make it seem like not a lot of time is involved, that might be true for some videos, but not for others (editing). Last thing you want to do is rush a job and then have a comeback a few days later. Labour guide is a guide... I had a car that needed a thermostat, but I ended up flushing the system for an hour, trying to get all the old rusty fluid out. The older the cars, the more likely things could take longer.
I bet mine is stuck open since my temp gauge drops when I do run heat. winters aren’t bad here, so seat heater is pretty much all i ever need, but is it okay for the engine to run cooler?
Yes it's ok for the engine, but you might lose a bit of fuel economy, as a cooler running engine uses more fuel.
I am a bit scared of replacing my thermostat , so when I flushed my car (vw new beetle 2004 1.9 tdi 74kw) I didn't replaced the thermostat . Is that why that I didn't put 6L as preconised but 3.5L of G13 coolant?
Because you didn't remove the thermostat, there was still coolant in the engine / not all of it drained out. Also, if you did not disconnect the lower radiator hoe, coolant was also still in the radiator. If the engine is not overheating, then I would not worry about the thermostat.
Haha now I feel bad for just taking the flange off (with braking 1 little piece) without draining the engine, quickly pulling out the old thermostat and ring, and quickly shoving the new one in and putting the old flange back. Filled up the system with new coolant as needed. Still works as it should though :D
Scotty Kilmer style! =)
Sorry bud... Was having a bad day, didn't mean to spoil yours.. But u know that next time you will take a different route... Its never quicker to work round the parts u don't really want to take off.! Its n age thing, n I am getting old now. Its easy for me to criticise your approach to the repair, after 28 yrs of making a mess my self! (Been there done that, n pissed coolant all over the place!). Sorry.. N respect for making the video and effort to help others that need information .... I wish I was still that enthusiastic about vehicle repairs... Got a 69 400 fire bird, F150 Harley ltd edition, SS Impala, Ford Expedition n a Lotus Carlton.... N they are all busted at the moment lol... So I am in no position to comment...again. Sorry if I caused offence... Keep up the good work...
I was wondering what your strategy to get the engine up to temperature was. I did the thermostat on my ALH a while ago and after idling for 20 minutes temperatures were hovering around 80ºC. Working outside on a coldish day probably didn't help much. I eventually grew impatient and found about 2000rpm of weight to put on the pedal - though I like your method better! :)
A loaded drive (low rpm / almost lugging the engine) around the block can also help.
I need to pick up one of those long caulking guns to hold the accelerator and brake pedals down. Sometimes it hard to find an extra leg to help.
Steve has a great DIY for building one!
Hi N smith, nice to see you here. Thomas is right, Steve Rob shows how to make one.
wyattoneable Thanks I'm going to check Steve out before I buy one tks again Norman
what year / model. I have a 2004 Jetta TDI. my coolant temp doesn't look like this. I can't find it anywhere....
This is an ALH TDI... you have a BEW TDI.
The coolant temperature sensor is located in the coolant flange at the side of the cylinder head. Find the top radiator hose and follow it to the engine. The black plastic pipe / flange that the hose attaches to, is the coolant flange. At the back of the flange is where the temperature sensor is located. It will be a little difficult to spot if you don't know its exact location. Use a flash light and have a look at the flange. If you have a standard transmission... the flange will be made of metal.
Very "cool" process. lol Great information. 👍👍
General procedure applies to a lot of makes & models! =)
Instead of using silicone sealant you can just use a small amount of silicone grease, which does not damage rubber (unlike petroleum jelly, which will damage rubber)
Yes, there are many things that can be used. Service manual just says to lubricate the seal with coolant.
Hello, i have a question: Is It normal in a 1.9 TDI with the operating temperature to have the Bottom hose cold?
Yes... tdi engines don't create as much heat as gasoline engines, so the thermostat will tend to stay closed longer. As long as you have heat inside the car and the engine is not overheating, all is good.
Hi you seem to have good knowledge of TDI engine's I bleed my diesel pump because of air but since then the temperature gauge seems to get hot quicker than it use to any idea thanks
Bleeding the diesel pump should not affect the cooling system... as long as the temperature needle does not go past the middle, the cooling system should be OK. Since I don't know all the steps you took (to bleed your pump) and what else was disconnected / move / reconnected etc... there's not much I can suggest, sorry.
Is it the same for an AXR model (new beetle 1.9tdi 74kw)? And how much does the system takes after a complete flush (changing radiator + changing thermostat) ? Thanks for all the work you're sharing!
Service manual says 6 liters if I remember correctly.
@@EXOVCDS alright thanks
How do you insert the O-Ring? Before or after placing the thermostat in its hole?
Thermostat first, then the o-ring.
Fans do not start while engine is running and only one starts when engine is swiched off. What could be the problem?
Year, make, model, engine? Does it overheat when the vehicle is cruising at steady speeds?
Watch the first 3 minutes of this video:
th-cam.com/video/LiDRUWPw_f4/w-d-xo.html
Watch this and then let me know what you find:
th-cam.com/video/Roh6RCs8IJk/w-d-xo.html
What direction does the coolant flow in an alh tdi motor? Hot at the thermostat and flowing toward the rad?
From the engine, hot coolant comes out of the top radiator hose and goes into the top of the radiator. Once the thermostat opens, the warm / hot coolant flows through the radiator, comes out at the bottom of the radiator and enters the engine through the thermostat flange that is at the end of the lower radiator hose (where it connects at the engine).
Thommy, you baaaaad booooy!!! Hahaa .daaat sealant.... :D
=)
Thanks for the tip on removing the oil cooler hose to drain the block. I was wondering how to drain the block without making a mess when the t-stat comes out. Question for you on TDI's. Since the t-stat is on the return side of the radiator, should the VCDS temp reading be a lot different than the t-stat opening temp? I've got an '01 beetle and with an Ultragauge it's settles in at 203-206 deg F no matter the outside temp. Don't know if that's normal or the previous owner put in a hotter t-stat.
Service manual info is correct most of the times. =)
Thanks for watching!
Should be an 87c / 188f thermostat.
@@EXOVCDS Ha! Yeah, I still need to buy one. I keep hoping to get a used Bentley manual for a good price.
Hi Thomas, I am having a new issue with my 254,000 mile '02 Jetta ALH engine's cooling system still has pressure in it even after 24 hours and an night with sub freezing temperatures. I have noticed this for the last 4 months, casually and just started to get concerned about it. Since 210k miles, the car has a RocketChip Stage 3 tune, pp520 nozzles and supporting mods.
Around the same time a few months ago it started losing a small amount of coolant and I'd see a small puddle under the passenger side fender after being parked overnight (I think I've had this for 6 months, going on). I thought it was because I had overfilled the coolant ball to the seam and not to the low mark where my TDI mechanic likes it. Earlier this week I was surprised to find the dash coolant light came on blinking at me, and I found the coolant ball was low!
I am starting to suspect I have a small head gasket leak that is starting to over pressurizing the cooling system. The cooling ball o-ring looks good, but, I went ahead and ordered a new coolant ball and cap, and picked up a block leak tester with the blue fluid from harbor freight. I also noticed some wetness on top of my manual gear box, but no pink crustiness) and am thinking it's also leaking out of the plastic coolant"Y" junction with the breather hose. I'll know more once I get the block leak test done tomorrow. The engine oil is clean and looks as it should, I changed it 3 months ago (your videos have helped me tremendously!). During that oil change, I pulled a mid stream oil sample (just because) but haven't sent it in for analysis yet. Maybe now I should.
I've been reading on TDIclub that some people have had this overpressurized cooling system problem and keep driving for years and 100k miles, still no fully blown head gasket. I don't think this is a normal and I did notice a little extra smoky start up after it had sat for a few days. I haven't been driving it over 100 miles as a result. But are the head gaskets on the ALH so prone to failure? Or is it b/c of the tune, nozzles and mods? The VW MK4 temp gauge is not very accurate, as you noted in this video, perhaps there's been some slight overheating under boost, that has caught up with it? I think the coolant is about 3 years old, don't show signs it's breaking down and when I test it's strength with a Prestone anti freeze tester (with a large needle in it, it tests strong even after tapping all the air bubbles out. Maybe those only work for green coolant? Just thinking if I get it fixed properly, I don't want it to happen again! Blue Devil Head Gasket sealer on my ALH, is that a bad idea? Thanks from Pennsylvania, USA.
Pressure remaining in the system after cooling off is due to head gasket failure. Head gaskets don't last forever... some do (or seem to).
Power / performance upgrades can shorten the life of components.
Mk4 temperature gauges are accurate, but actual temperature can be off in either direction and the needle will still be in the middle (190F)... the needle usually won't swing past the middle unless temperature is more than 108c (226F).
Coolant leaking on the right side of the engine is usually from the water pump or coolant reservoir. On the left side, it's usually from the coolant flange.
Replace the head gasket and she'll be good for another 200k.
Thank you for your sage advice. It’s almost due for another TB & water pump, so might as well do it all. They’re never going to build a car as reliable, roomy & efficient as an ALH Jetta wagon GLS, so I’ll be keeping her on the road as long as I can.
@@mailjabber feel free to post updates here when the time comes.
very nice explained!
Thank you for watching!
Will a stuck open thermostat trigger a check engine light?
Stuck open or opening soon yes.
"Cooling system performance malfunction" / usually P2181.
Great video...perfect angle of view and cadence. My GF has a '05 TDI beetle which looks to even less room to work and appears the Alternator may need to move to get at the T-Stat bolts. Is that your experience? Also, what is the large black ball, on your video it is high and to the drivers side, but on hers it too is right in front of the T-Stat ... Looks to be held on with a single bolt in a bracket; OK to move it out of the way? Thanks!
Thank you for the kind words! BEW TDI? Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/zD6m34P3rDU/w-d-xo.html Yes, the Beetle will have less room, but I do it the same way as in this video, since the setup is the same, just the body shell is different. The black round ball is the "vacuum reservoir". Yes, just move it aside for more room.
that was perfect, exactly what i'm looking at. Given not a pro-job, would you not also change the coolant temp sensor whilst your in that deep and the coolant splashing around? Inexpensive part and seems to make sense to me?
Yes... makes sense. It's at the back of the coolant flange on the right side of the cylinder head.
Would this be the same for ATD? I dont need to drain the radiator, just the hose from the thermostat? thank you!
Yes, ATD is similar. If you lower the hose too much, the radiator will drain completely. 1/2 of the radiator will drain if you keep the hose at the thermostat level / height.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you, just ordered my parts (thermostat has been stuck open). If i drain about 1/2 of the radiator, how much coolant would i need to buy, is 5L enough do you think?
5L pure will cover a 10L system at 50/50 mix with water. Your cooling system takes 7L to 8L IIRC. Yes, will be enough.
Hello
Thomas EXOVCDS
Have an A4 1.9 TDI 85kw. I have some pressure in the coolant system. Squeezing the upper radiator hose, being hard , tells me that i do have too much pressure in the system and after 20 km feels cold , no signs of warm on it. Engine working on idle i see no signs of coolant in the reservoir return hose , but i see coolant returnig to reservoir only for a few second after i loosen the reservoir cap . Revv-ing the engine to 1800-2000 RPM i do see coolant returnig to reservoir constantly. I hear gurgling/air sounds inside the heater core matching aside RPM from iddle until 2000-2500 RPM . I think i have some leaks inside the cabin from the heater core , matching the assumption that i do have too much pressure inside the system. Maybe you can help me to take my decision.... I am thinking to change the timing belts with rollers, water pump and thermostat ... And maybe , if this doesn't apply as a fix I will check the head gasket Thanks
It is normal for the hoss to get hard as the engine warms up... too much pressure can be a sign of had gasket failure. When the shut the engine off and let it cool down... does the pressure stay in the cooling system? If the pressure stays in the system (check when the engine is cold the next morning)... then you probably have a head gasket issue.
No heat inside the car can be due to a bad water pump and or a bad head gasket. A bad water pump will NOT cause gurgling sound... air in the system (system not bled correctly or air getting in because of head gasket) will.
What does the temperature needle do? Does show overheating?
@@EXOVCDS To respond to your question .... needle doesn't move at all. It stays below at 60 de C , and it is like this from the moment I buyed the car 3 years ago .It just moves from repaos position to 60 deC when I switch the key to ON position. Maybe it is a cluster issue or bad ECT . We speaked about this, in another posted video, so this is not the first time I'm asking for your opinion in my problems with my car.
The pressure stays in the system even if the engine is cold.There is almost same presure, no matter the engine is cold or hot , just small difference of pressure in favor of cold situation.
So unfortunately, almost every sign points to a possible head gasket situation....
There is anything i can check TO BE SURE that the head gasket is the problem ? It is very important to be sure, because , it is very expensive to resolve the situation. Asking this because , no matter how much i'll drive , or how fast , the coolant doesn't boil . even taking into account an outside temperature of 25-30 deg C (77-86 deg Fahrenheit).
Thank You
Checking for exhaust gasses with an exhaust analyser or test fluid would be the way to check for head gasket failure.... gasses in the coolant reservoir.
Does the thermostat not opening/closing as it should affect the cabin heating as well? Thanks for the video!
Yes... if the thermostat is stuck open, there will be less heat inside the car. If the thermostat is stuck closed, there will be more heat... because the radiator can not cool the coolant.
Thomas EXOVCDS ok that makes sense. Thanks for the reply! I appreciate the fact that you take the time to do so. Many TH-camrs do not and it’s annoying.
I also find that annoying.
Thank you for watching!
👍👍👍👍
Edgar Bravo thank you for watching!
Dang imma gonna do that tomorrow morning... If it works I will buy one of your mug and t-shirt hahaha 😜 !
Let me know how it went for you once you get it done.
@@EXOVCDS I really want to cry, I just tested the thermostat and it didn't fit with the flange when I turned it.... I didn't wanted to force too much but enough so it turns and it didn't turn.
I gaved to the seller all the car's paper so that he has the good reference and he didn't make it! Wtf. Now I am stuck cuz it's Christmas and everything is closed until next Monday... DUUUUUUUUUDE
@@ProoD45 That's not good. :-/
@@EXOVCDS I'll tell you what Monday then :' l
@@ProoD45 OK
Hello Thomas. I just done coolant flush with draining engine block but now hose from thermostat is cold. Rest is fine. Can U advise something ?
Is the temperature needle going past the middle? If not, let the engine run longer... TDI engines will run a long time before the thermostat opens. If the needle is going past the middle, then you probably have an air pocket or the thermostat is not opening.
@@EXOVCDS Yes it does reach 90 degrees , heating is working car is not overheating. When I did coolant change I did remove thermostat to empty engine block and the I did fit back in like it should be. Any advise ?
As long as the needle is not going past the middle... things are fine. You just have to wait longer for the lower hose to get hot / the thermostat to open. TDI engines will can take more than 10 min to open the thermostat. Have the car standing and hold the rpm at 1800 to 2000 rpm.
@@EXOVCDS I did went on a A road for 15 min fast drive and still nothing just come back. Probably I still got air in the lower hose. Thermostat have to be fine if car reach 90 and is not overheating. I will try play with it tomorrow. Thomas thank U for help and videos.
As soon as you drive, the radiator & lower hose are cooled... you have to NOT move and hold the rpm at 1800 to 2000 rpm.
HEY THOMAS ! WHAT MAKES THE DEISEL ENGINE LOUD ?
Old diesels are noisy because of the indirect way of injecting fuel... new diesels inject directly into the combustion chamber at high pressures (higher than older diesels) with multiple injections (as opposed to just one like old diesels) per combustion event.
Hey Thomas, any idea what would cause an exhaust like drone in every gear at 2000ish rpm? 02 jetta alh thanks
Does the vehicle have to be moving under load (will it do it at 2000 standing still?).
Check all exhaust hangers.
@EXOVCDS exhaust snapped in half right in the middle of the car lol thank you for your time brother. Keep up the great , love your vids ❤️
Thank you for the update!
Hi, thanks for the video , how many Newton meter have you aplied in the bolts of thermostat box?
Did you read what it said at 7:00 ?
Didnt read It 😅😅😅, thanks
This 15Nm is the Torque that you recommend or have read It on the manufacturer book?
@andreshildenbrandjimenez85 check your service manual to see if I am correct.
@@EXOVCDS i dont have It but i trust you
Was hoping u are in the uk so can do mine
These are not that difficult to do... maybe this fellow is in your area:
th-cam.com/channels/RfF_E-wrIEzIxJNQL1SMcQ.html
If he is... tell him that Thomas EXOVCDS sent you! =)
Do we really need to remove the oil cooler hose?
No.
After I replaced my thermostat and housing, it started leaking coolant. I followed the procedure you outlined twice. The first time I used o-ring plus gasket. The second, just the o-ring. Both methods leak. Verified that thermostat works, temperature never goes above the appropriate level, so on and so froth. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong to cause this leak. Before I replaced the thermostat, it never leaked. Ideas? Thoughts?
Only an o-ring is required. Make sure that the mating surfaces are clean (remove rust from engine block). Replace the plastic thermostat flange if you did not already.
@@EXOVCDS Is the thermostat flange the same as the thermostat housing? If so, I replaced that. What is the best method you recommend for cleaning the mating surface? I was pretty sure I cleaned it well.
The flange I'm referring to can be seen at 4:31
If you are working on a different engine / thermostat flange / housing design... I need to know. Since you are commenting under this video, I assumed that you are working on the same type of engine. If you are, then you can see I did not use a gasket... just the o-ring and a bit of RTV silicone.
@@EXOVCDS Yeah, we have the same one and I used the o-ring and the silicone like you did and it still leaked. I do not however have a wire brush to clean it up as nicely.
what is best cleaner to help cleanup the mating surface ? brakleen ? also heard the 2 bolts are supposed to be single use ? maybe i will go to a junkyard to practice observe on a car there first
What year is this car?
Mine is a 2003 and have a straight engine!
This is a Volkswagen "A4 Platform" (Golf / Jetta) 4th generation.
If you have an Audi A4... you have a B5, B6, B7 etc platform.
could the stuck open thermostat lower your MPG in a ALH TDI
CAN YOU REPLY PLEASE THANK YOU
Yes, a cooler running engine will use more fuel.
okay then if the thermostat is the problem would it show up on a ecu scan ?
No scan tool is needed to verify thermostat operation. Start the engine when cold... monitor the upper and lower radiator hose temperature by holding them with your hand. The lower hose should remain cool to the touch until you can't hold the upper hose anymore because it is too warm / hot. If the lower hose also gets warm (at a similar rate as the upper one), then the thermostat is opening early. Another indicator... the temperature needle will swing to the left when you are at a cruising speed, after the engine has reached operating temperatures (needle in the middle).
i changed the thermostat but now it comes to operatin temperature but the lower hose from the thermostat is still cold and doesnt get hot what can i do i bleed the sysytem but now i dont know what to do
Is the engine overheating? The lower hose will remain cold for a long time on TDI engines. As long as the temperature needle does NOT go past the middle, you have nothing to worry about. The hose will eventually get hot and the fans will come on.
Can we reuse the broken flange
You can reuse the flange even with the broken fingers / tabs... the thermostat will just not be held in place for easier installation.
Hello, I have same engine in my audi a3 2000 110 hp. Had problem with coolant loosing and hard coolant pipes after ride 30 or more km. Last year my upper hose blown and overheat, I change upper hose, new gasket and new head. Coolant and pipe from coolant was fine for about half year than same problem start again. Recently I change my coolant heater because coolant foged the windshield. Then coolant level was OK for 2 weeks and pipes than again same problem. Recently I found some coolant foged windscreen again but nothing too much, when I turn on ac it goes away. I checked lower hose pipe from radiator after ride from 250 km and it was cold. Coolant level drop litle, day after when I open cap from coolant it release some pressure and rise litle but nothing much, cca lost maybe 0.3 dcl from 250 km ride. My mechanic say that is maybe engine block cracked (I see one spot on block that had litle oil on it). Oil color is OK not milky, doesn't get higher level that it should and color from anteefreze is pink,no white smoke from exhaust. Could it be block, head, gasket or something else, car has 375000 km on clock,car is running god now with temperature 90 degrees and doesn't owerheat, just coolant loss and hard radiator hose, thanks for answer.
Cracked head, cracked block or bad head gasket. Windshield can fog up when AC (condensation) drain is plugged. Water starts to collect in the heater box and once the heater gets warm, the water evaporates and fogs the windshield.
@@EXOVCDS thanks for the answer.
Hey mate having some problems with leaks running down the passenger side of the block post thermostat replacement. I can't for the life of me see that the thermostat itself is leaking, have I caused somehow a waterpump problem? Can't really tell if it is because I'm using aftermarket parts (Meyle Housing/Seal, Motorad Thermostat), but it is not obvious to me that coolant is leaking from the stat itself...tho its a tight spot. Second try I used RTV like you, and problem persists. Stumped. Do you use OEM? Any help is appreciated!
Which side of the thermostat is the o-ring seal? Reason for having replaced the thermostat? Remove the lower timing belt cover and look at the water pump. If you see crusty dried coolant... the pump has been weeping for some time already (some weeping is normal from the "weep" hole) and is now leaking. Other possibility is that the leak is coming from the "bypass pipe" that is mounted to the block where the thermostat is. The o-ring for that pipe doesn't last for ever. It is also not uncommon to fix one leak and another leak develops. The weakest link always leaks. Once you seal a leak, pressure increases, putting strain on the next weak link... until it decides to leak.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply. I think to answer the first question the or-ing seal is between the wide site of the thermostat and the housing. Looks like a good fit, but I definitely wish I had the 'click into place t stat'. I replaced the thermostat because I was getting a P0128 code, and had already replaced the coolant temp sensor. Ya, these are the annoying truths of a pressurized system. Timing Belt/Water Pump was last done probably 5 or 6 years ago, coming close to 100k kms. This bypass pipe, I have heard about, in your opinion either this or the waterpump failing are possible culprits?
Thanks again for a super video and for following up!
@@kurt.loewen with a little patience and disassembly, I'm sure you'll find the source of the leak. 5 / 6 year old water pump failure is not uncommon these days. There's no set life expectancy. Some fail before timing belt service interal, some don't. Water pump coolant will drip from behind the crankshaft pulley. Bypass pipe leakage will drip similar to thermostat housing leakage at the front / right corner of the engine.
Cool last name (Lions)!
@@EXOVCDS Ya I definitely identify with the Cat! Dang looks like they keep deleting my recent comment because I provided a link to the leak. It is a video showing, hate to say it, coolant pouring over the back of the crankshaft pulley.
I popped out this evening with a flashlight and am pretty sure the "bypass pipe" is not the culprit but will see in the morning.
Last thing I'll try before disassembling too much is one of the 'click into the housing' tstats. if that works, well then I've avoided a bigger headache/bill/time.
Also, sent you a coffee! Thanks for everything mate! YOu got a shop in Burnaby?
@@kurt.loewen thanks for the $.
I wouldn't bother changing the thermostat again. You should be able to see if it's leaking or not from the top. If coolant is dripping from the back if the crank pulley, I'm quite sure that the pump is leaking. Again, can be verified by removing lower timing belt cover. Just the serpentine belt & tensioner have to be removed, as well as the crank pulley... to get at the lower cover. I'm in the lower mainland, yes.
My return hose does not bring back fluid. What should I do or check?
I need more info.
Overheating? Yes / no?
Heat inside the car? Yes / no?
I just got the code for the overheating. Doesn’t get hot inside yet.
I unplugged the hose that returns to the small tank but it’s doesn’t have fluid coming back.
How quickly does the needle need the dash rise from cold start. When the needle goes past hot, is the upper coolant hose actually hot? Does the reservoir vent pressure? If you have no warm air inside the car, then the water pump is bad.
Does the alh have a block warmer? Or can you install one
Doesn't have one, but you can install one... many different options available. Either warm the oil or the coolant. Coolant will provide heat inside the vehicle right away... oil will insure that things get lubricated right away.
depends where you live if you live in colder climate I think they had one. I bought a 03 it had a block warmer kind of like a heating pad for your back but for your Oil. You can install one get Pros to do it tho. They work great here In Alberta Canada at -30 had to cycle the key 2 or more times but it started right up.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you for watching!
for some versions ... remove the generator to unlock / lock the lower screw
Yes, remove whatever you have to remove, to remove what you want to remove.
Can bad thermostat have an impact on fuel economy? I have mine sitting betweeb 1/2 - 3/4 to 90degree on the dash. Not sure if that's normal
Needle should climb to 90 (middle) and stay there. If the needle drops while driving, the thermostat is sticking open, causing excessive cooling... which reduces fuel economy (a warm engine needs / uses less fuel). If the needle goes past the middle to 3/4, you have to check why. Bad water pump, fans not working, clogged radiator, bad thermostat etc.
@@EXOVCDS mine must be bad then. It doesn’t reach 90. Can I verify this in group 7 in vagcom or the needle is enough to show it’s gone bad? Thanks
@@EXOVCDS So I scanned the coolant temperature in VCDS and it read less than 80 degree after a short engine shutdown. It slowly went up when the engine was running again but the needle on the dash stayed at 90 (center). Does this confirm bad thermostat?
Needle should climb to 90 (middle) and stay there. If the needle drops while driving, the thermostat is sticking open.
If the needle drops and rises while driving at a steady speed, then I would suspect a faulty temperature sensor.
@@EXOVCDS If the thermostat is sticking open, should the lower and upper coolant hose feel warm after about 10 mins driving? Just want to confirm one more time before I start replacing things. The temperature gauge on the dash drops after highway driving. At steady speed, temperature seems to be holding but takes a while to get to 190.
Hi there. Can you give me some help please? My VW Passat b6 1.9 TDI 2008 model has a coolant leak . The hose that was punctured was changed and tighter clips put on and is still leaking coolant. The mechanic now says it's the thermostat because the hose is rock hard from pressure and he says that's causing the leak. When he loosens the coolant bottle cover the air comes out and the hose is soft again. Could he be correct or do you have any ideas? Thanx in advance.
How long does it take for the hoses to get hard? Once the engine is warm (hoses are hard) shut the engine off... let the engine cool down (overnight). The next morning... are the hoses still hard?
@@EXOVCDS I'll check that and let you know. Thanx buddy. Someone said it might be the coolant flange
@@EXOVCDS if the hose is still hard the next morning when the engine has cooled down what would that indicate? Possibly the thermostat? Or possibly the coolant flange?
@@poolking36 if pressure is still in the system the next morning (when the engine is cold), then the head gasket is bad.
I drove the car this morning and let the engine cool. When I checked it now a few hours later the hose is soft again
IS IT TRUE THE HOTTER THE ENGINE RUNS THE MORE EFFICIENT ?
Yes... up to a point (temperature wise). Once temperatures get too hot, efficiency starts to go down again.
thomas what are the symptoms of a thermostat that is stuck open
Engine temperature slow to warm up... if a temperature needle is in the dash, the needle will drop towards cold, once the vehicle is being driven at a constant speed, from a fully warmed up standing position. The ECM might also set a cooling system performance malfunction code.
@@EXOVCDS This sounds alot like my car but im not worried since its not as risky as a thermostat stuck closed, but i don't have ECM code for it though.
Correct, stuck open is better than closed. You can put some cardboard in front of the radiator to help reduce the amount of air flowing through it... that should keep the coolant a bit warmer (if things are getting too cold for you in the winter).
@@EXOVCDS any long term disadvantages of driving with cold temperatures on an engine?
Slight decrease in fuel economy... cooler running engine uses more fuel.
Is the "vaccuming" necessary?
I am 16 and I really don't want to mess with my bug, I am replacing thermostat+ radiator soo
Vacuum is not necessary.
20:29 so what didn't you do? And why?!
That would be too easy... some guesses in the comments and I'll post my reply.
Can the coolant be reused?
It could... but you have to make sure that no dirt or oily film is in it (from running down the engine). It's cheaper in the long run to fill with fresh clean coolant, than take a chance with the saved coolant.
@@EXOVCDS makes sense. Now, on the TDIs, since heat helps engine works better, I've gotten recommendations to go with a 90C thermostat versus the 87C. Is that a safe mod? And finally, how important is it to have the lower pan shield? does it help the engine reach operating temp quicker? I don't have one nor do I have the hood cloth any more.
@@estebanflores8049 90c is fine, but if you are in a hotter climate / area, I would stick with 87c. The splash guards protect against road debris from coming in contact with the engine... more specifically the drive belts.
@@EXOVCDS Ok, sounds good. Our summers are 90+ easy, so I'll stick to 87C. Thanks again!!
did he flush the entire system?
I think he removed 80% of the coolant when he removed the thermostat hose. At the 3min mark he lowers the lower radiator hose below the engine... which drains the radiator. Once he removed the thermostat, the engine drained out. He mentions in his videos that there will always be some coolant left behind / in the engine or heater core. He recommends to change coolant ever 4 years. He's pretty good at answering questions. Let him know why you are asking about flushing, when this video is about thermostat replacement. He's not a mind reader.
first thank you@@EXOVCDS
Second English is not my mother language, so i could not properly explain myself.
So here it goes.
what i what to do is to clean the cooling system. That is why i needed to know, that the cooling did or did not get out of the system. and i will change the heat core to. And need some advice how to clean it right
There are many chemical flush options that you can use... or you can use liquid dish wash soap.
Add the cleaner to the coolant reservoir and run the engine until the thermostat opens. Allow the additive to circulate for at least 10min once the thermostat has opened.
Sometimes you have to flush more than 1 time.
The best thing to do is to change to coolant every 4 years.
liquimoly.cloudimg.io/v7/www.liqui-moly.com/media/catalog/product/cache/afa4132dc622b3596e7e2b6e4e4bc624/2/0/2051_K__hlerreiniger_300ml_bb57.jpg?w=730&h=720&func=bound&sharp=1&org_if_sml=1&force_format=webp%252Coriginal
Distilled water or tap?
Distilled is best. You can buy premixed from the dealership.
@@EXOVCDS that’s what I thought. But the guy at the VW parts shop said distilled pulls minerals out of the metal…so it’s best to use tap. We live in Washington state and he was saying our water is really good and doesn’t have the hardness of other states? I’ve never heard anything like this before but it also kind of makes sense to me.
@@kcummo no matter which you use... it's more important to flush every 4 years, so the system is kept fresh.
As you know I don't own a German car (I do have a German wife) but I can still use the tips that are common to all cars. That's funny. When I'm at work waiting on the passengers, that's what I do. Check TH-cam!
wyattoneable TH-cam is great for killing time! =)
Thanks for the specialist information....,,,, ???? I am so pleased that the VAG drivers of this world have the support of the professionals when things go bad ! Without you boys I'm sure we would have a glycol drought.... U prob don't have a clue as to what I am saying... Look back at this vid in ten yrs n cringe as to what you were thinking !!! no disrespect bud,,, but get some serious skills n experience behind you over the next few years before the next vid you post.... I have done the same...
You gonna leave me hanging for 10 years... not tell me what I did wrong? =(
So I spilled a bit of coolant... was that it?
а выгнать воздух из системы?? так пол года будешь греть
Best way to fill cooling system is with vacuum machine. Basic bleeding instructions:
th-cam.com/video/JnTUr0SEJBw/w-d-xo.html
Vacuum fill method: starts at 0:57
th-cam.com/video/J0bvOdYMtcg/w-d-xo.html
Ha..4:28 fail. Dont worry about what the engineers say , pfffft
Yeah, because they are always right!!?
@@EXOVCDS it didnt leak before right ?
There's nothing wrong with a bit of added insurance. As stated in the video, I said silicone is not needed. What works for me (makes me feel better), doesn't work / is not ideal for some / others. People need to make up their own mind. I did. You did.
@@EXOVCDS i like your video ..just dont agree with silicone .yes my opinion
Now we know. Thank you for sharing & watching.