just got the Gen 7 pro and the issues mentioned here aren't there anymore. The Gen 7 Pro coms with a curved steering rod and adjustable servo arm (pitman arm) and the steering angle is more then adequate. There is no need to do anything anymore, RedCat fixed the issue. It looks like they listened to these videos, so great idea making it. I'm happy.
mine came without the nubs on the knuckles, the tie rod was already bent, high steer knuckles also and the tyres turn far enough to hit the shock springs all from the factory, and seems to do a tighter turn just watching the video, nice to see they are listening to users of their products.
😎Cool thanks for stopping by, and yes Red cat is doing good with making this thing better and better they made a lot of changes since the first batch like I have.
Shen RC, I subbed your channel after talking the other day, I am quite impressed with mine and can not complain about Redcat at all, they are coming along with their rigs and I think they will be up there with the top brands in years to come.
Def a good fix man! It actually stayed in view of the camera during demo! I’ll be doing this soon! I have the pro with the bent steering bar but still bad steering! Thanks man 👍🏽
Redcat must have listened to you lol! The steering link is curved now, massive pumpkin clearance, the bumps on the carriers are gone too. Oh! And the cups on the axles for the dogbones? They're deeper too. They must have put a revised model out. I just got my sport yesterday and got ready to do all the mods you mentioned and, they fixed it from factory! Lol. Good stuff! Love your videos though!
Instead of cutting into my axle, I added spacer nuts in between each knuckle and each side of the steering links with a longer screw to raise the bars up a touch, which was more than enough space to get my full turning angle without buying additional parts. I recommend this method if you have some spare screws and nuts laying around. The last thing you will want is to accidentally cut too far into your axle.
HI I know you can do what you did also I just wanted to mod it using everything stock so you would not have to get any extra components to make your truck turn better.Also you don't need to grind a lot off the axle pumpkin so it's not to bad. 😊👍
Hey bud you can avoid grinding the pumpkin by getting longer screws for the link and putting some spacers under the link to raise the bar so it dont hit... basically like hight steer knuckles
Good job Steve. Although I don't know why this was released with so many blatantly obvious problems. If I spend hundreds of pounds or dollars on a RTR, I don't expect to be messing about fixing stuff, that clearly should have been addressed in quality control before it was put on the market for general sale. Why they didn't make an angled steering link like the Axial Wraiths is beyond me. I really like and respect that You have thought about these design flaws, and devised fixes that don't cost anything, but the more I see of this RC, the more l don't want to waste my money on ANY Redcat products if this is what needs to be done to get a half decent runner. Thumbs up mate, for making these videos to help people who have already parted with their cash. Think I will pass on this model myself : ))
yea if you grind the nubs off the steering knuckles you then get the steering rod hitting the pumpkin, I was going to also grind a flat spot on the back of the steering rod but there was no sense in doing so because it's as far as it can turn with the stock set up, unless you get a longer servo horn.
Hi It wont matter with the stock horn with what I did the ground nub steering knuckles they now are turning full lock hitting up against the screw that they hit at full turn. if you just use a longer horn and cut nubs off it wont turn as much you need to grind the pumpkin or the back of the steering rod because the rod hitting the pumpkin is what stops the steering from going full lock even with the stock servo horn.
Had any problems with the plastic spur gear! Stripped a few teeth a little low on my first 5 minutes running the truck and now it’s clicking while driving 🥲
My axles broke after Making the mod bc it was steering better but the cups was letting the axles pop out and get jammed up and I've broke a few axles and can't figure out why ik mine has some wear so maby some new wheel bearings would help but I bought a new axle and it's dislike they actually upgraded some of it but still breaks axles and I didn't think they were powerful enough to break the metal axles but they will forsure so when will they make the cups without the edges grinded open so it can hold the axles in the spindle cups better I almost wanna weld and grind the slots myself but I've been waiting for redcat to come up with a better cvaxle like front diff or am I gonna have to make one
@@ShenRC The thing I don't like about the 8 is that it's noticeably slower than the 7. I won't be doing much rock crawling, more off road driving and the speed of the 7 seems good while also not too fast.
@@williamhollenbaugh2547 Hi I think your looking into the wrong type of RC for what you want it for , all these crawlers are super slow, I think you may be wanting something like a normal 4x4 1/10 scale truck for what your planing on doing.
@@williamhollenbaugh2547 Hi please explain to me the spots and how you are going to run this new truck you want to buy and I may be able to help you out better...a crawler is slow you can't even jump it or anything you can walk faster than they go if you try walking your fastest speed.
Hi Steve, great job on the steering, have you got any hints and tips for the tamiya cc01, to make the steering any better, cause it's got crap steering as standard. Nice video. 😀 👍 👍 👍
Hi this way is so simple and you don't have to buy no extra parts otr bend anything this is why I did it so you can use all the stock parts to get sharper steering. 😊👍
Shen RC I understand using the stock parts without any extra $$$... I don't have the Gen 7 as of yet but I believe it is in the near future for me. So one final question, is the Gen 7 worth the money?
Hi thanks, the gen7 sport for $199.00 is worth it but I only feel it's worth it if you do like I did with mine mod the stock parts and don't put any extra money at all hardly into it.. I see to many guy's buy them and buy all these extra parts that in the end they could have purchased a axial or HPI or something that to me blows the gen 7 away they are much better but if you buy the gen 7 for the $199.00 and mod it like i did and don't put no extra $ into it then it's fine... but it is not the best of crawler trail rigs but it still is a great fun inexpensive capable rig.
I have the axial ends as well how did you get the black threaded bar out of the plastic ends. It just unscrewed from the silver bar but is tight in the stock plastic end. Cant seem to get it unthreaded
😃👍Thanks , The new gen7 has improved steering parts you don't need to do this anymore...just set your radios steering throw less so the servo don't over turn to far and cause strain on it or it can break if you have it set with to much throw..
The only thing that bothers me with the gen7 is, it's slow even when you completely pull the throttle trigger. Other rock crawlers are a bit faster. Now I have no clue about how to reprogram the esc on it or any other esc for that matter, what I did is I decided to swap the stock motor with a 4300kv brushless motor and replaced the stock esc and installed one from a volcano epx pro, that did the trick, its still slow, but faster, it may not have the same torque as the stock Motor and Esc, but still gets to places and still climbs very excellent. Mock me all you want, but I like to have a little speed on my RC's even if its not suppose to go fast. Fastest RC I currently have is my modified Traxxas slash 2wd. Goes 50 - 60 mph.
I wont mock you it's your RC you supposed to set it up how you like that's the fun part of this hobby is making your RC the way you like it to be, I made mine slower it was to fast for me for how I run mine I needed less speed and more power and it works great now for me =) Thanks for watching.
Dynames One Ive seen them run way faster with a 15-20T motor and a 2s lipo is all. Plenty of speed and still crawls like a champ. No need for a new ESC on my Everest 10 BC it is programmable. Idk about the gen 7
Well that was stupid lol you would have gotten the same speed by simply getting a bigger pinion or a lower turn brushed motor and 4300kv will never crawl good, I ran a 2150 brushless in my trx4 and it wasn't much faster than stock because guess what your transmission is the same gearing duhhhh.
HI thanks I know I can make it better by buying optional parts but I just want to keep it 100% stock and make it work better with what it is. 😊Thanks for watching
😊👍It's great if you do not want to put more $ into this rig like i did with mine...I see to many guy's buying so many parts that they could have just purchased a much better axial rig in the end.
My new gen 7 Pro only turns to the left. If I turn the wheel right it still turns to the left both ways. It run forward reverse ok. I have adjusted the steering trim and rates makes no difference Im stumped? So no matter which way I turn the wheel it goes left only. When I release the wheel it centers.
🤔 Strange sounds like a bad servo... do you have a extra servo/ If so plug it in the receiver and see if it works properly. If it does it's your servo.
@@ShenRC Yes i will give it a try. Also I bought a new factory curved steering bar but after I got it installed both front wheels now point outward \ / like the bar is too long? Do you need to replace other part as well?
Hi make sure your plugging the servo in the proper channel in the receiver for steering. It sounds like a radio problem if everything is connected up properly and you only have steering one way.
Hi the only slop mine has and it's not much and I been driving mine probably for over 15 miles + in the mountains is I found when you grab a front Tires top from under the body fender and thumb under bottom of the tire you can wiggle it a bit.
Mine feels like the front tires are lose but there tight i looked at the axels and the wobble in the bearings so I ordered new bearings and metal steering knuckles so hopefully that works
Yea that's how it is but it works great I been using mine for a long time...they may have used non tight tolerance bearings or the axles that ride through have been made to not tight tolerances.
@@bryonsparkman6562 all crawlers have play or slop in the front end I have a trx4 and a scx10ii and a barrage and a Everest 10 and they are all the same.
It's a nice clean job but I can't like the video or share this mod. IMHO I see problems with this in the future, weakening an already weak plastic part, especially a major component like this...well I'll just hope y'all don't experience a snapped diff or environmental problems from water & dirt. On that note, y'all ain't the 1st I've seen do this sort of shit but I won't give y'all a thumbs down because y'all do very good work in any case & most of your mods & tips are great...just not this one. Please don't take this as anything other than how I mean it, constructive criticism. It's easier & free to adjust your toe angle & give a slight bend to the link than to grind meat off parts. Also a lot easier to live with than a possibly bent or snapped diff.
I respect your opinion as everyone has there own, But I been into this hobby for a very looooong time and trust me when I tell you this... from shaving that small amount off the center pumpkin so the steering works like how I shown in this video will not harm anything at all. If you are going to bash and beat on the gen 7 and think a axle housing will snap down the center breaking the axle in half this will never happen you will break off the axle C carrier ends first and bend or brake the metal axle ends and most definitely break the plastic spots right off that the aluminum end links screw to and attach on the axle housing first making the whole axle worthless anyhow way before you can snap this axle straight in half by the diff area. Thanks for posting and watching my videos =)
Shen RC - I've been doing this for over 40 yrs as well & trust me, I've seen it happen, twice, just fyi. And as a Mechanic I've seen in on real vehicles as well. Nothing is impossible Sir, perhaps faulty casting idk but I like adding a few angled link ends better, just my opinion but sometimes free ain't always best. Others my not be as careful as y'all are either & go too deep, seen that on here as well. And yep, will continue to watch.
just got the Gen 7 pro and the issues mentioned here aren't there anymore. The Gen 7 Pro coms with a curved steering rod and adjustable servo arm (pitman arm) and the steering angle is more then adequate. There is no need to do anything anymore, RedCat fixed the issue. It looks like they listened to these videos, so great idea making it. I'm happy.
Yep redcat does good they do listen to the people who buy there products they are good that way. Have fun with your new truck. 👍
I love mine, upgrading drive line to metal and servo horn to aluminum. I get over an hour run on the stock NiMh 7.2 v battery !!
All I did was break my stock servo horn then I bought a longer one. And my unit turns amazing now.
Cool!
Same
mine came without the nubs on the knuckles, the tie rod was already bent, high steer knuckles also and the tyres turn far enough to hit the shock springs all from the factory, and seems to do a tighter turn just watching the video, nice to see they are listening to users of their products.
😎Cool thanks for stopping by, and yes Red cat is doing good with making this thing better and better they made a lot of changes since the first batch like I have.
Shen RC, I subbed your channel after talking the other day, I am quite impressed with mine and can not complain about Redcat at all, they are coming along with their rigs and I think they will be up there with the top brands in years to come.
Is it confirmed that the new redcat gen 7 pro has these modifications?? Just ordered 1 and I'm curious ??
mine came like that too, and the tires rub the springs... its kind off annoying
Def a good fix man! It actually stayed in view of the camera during demo! I’ll be doing this soon! I have the pro with the bent steering bar but still bad steering! Thanks man 👍🏽
Glad it helped! Thanks
Redcat must have listened to you lol! The steering link is curved now, massive pumpkin clearance, the bumps on the carriers are gone too. Oh! And the cups on the axles for the dogbones? They're deeper too. They must have put a revised model out. I just got my sport yesterday and got ready to do all the mods you mentioned and, they fixed it from factory! Lol. Good stuff! Love your videos though!
Yes radcat is good that way they always update and improve there products. Have fun with your Gen 7! Thanks for watching.
My new Gen 7 Pro has a curved steering bar ! lol...
Awesome video. I really enjoyed watching
Thanks.
Instead of cutting into my axle, I added spacer nuts in between each knuckle and each side of the steering links with a longer screw to raise the bars up a touch, which was more than enough space to get my full turning angle without buying additional parts. I recommend this method if you have some spare screws and nuts laying around. The last thing you will want is to accidentally cut too far into your axle.
HI I know you can do what you did also I just wanted to mod it using everything stock so you would not have to get any extra components to make your truck turn better.Also you don't need to grind a lot off the axle pumpkin so it's not to bad. 😊👍
Hey bud you can avoid grinding the pumpkin by getting longer screws for the link and putting some spacers under the link to raise the bar so it dont hit... basically like hight steer knuckles
Hi thanks, I know but I wanted to make it work without adding anything extra just working with all the stock stuff.
Hello again Steve, as you said my new gen7 sport steering system may be updated by redcat, and it is.. thanks again.
Malta Bernard
😃👍I got the lemon first version! LOL!
Good job Steve. Although I don't know why this was released with so many blatantly obvious problems. If I spend hundreds of pounds or dollars on a RTR, I don't expect to be messing about fixing stuff, that clearly should have been addressed in quality control before it was put on the market for general sale. Why they didn't make an angled steering link like the Axial Wraiths is beyond me. I really like and respect that You have thought about these design flaws, and devised fixes that don't cost anything, but the more I see of this RC, the more l don't want to waste my money on ANY Redcat products if this is what needs to be done to get a half decent runner. Thumbs up mate, for making these videos to help people who have already parted with their cash. Think I will pass on this model myself : ))
Hi yea the steering is a MUST it has bad steering out of the box the other mods you don't really need to do.. so if you do the steering it's ok.
They had limited the steering a lot, good tip :-)
Thanks it's much better now. =)
Redcat must have done some mods later on in production because my gen 7 sport is completely different
Yeah they upgraded and switched a lot on them now. Thanks
Nice, I knew about the bump but not the hitting of pumpkin. good walkthrough :-)
yea if you grind the nubs off the steering knuckles you then get the steering rod hitting the pumpkin, I was going to also grind a flat spot on the back of the steering rod but there was no sense in doing so because it's as far as it can turn with the stock set up, unless you get a longer servo horn.
Thats exactly what I was going to try, was the longer servo horn :-)
Hi It wont matter with the stock horn with what I did the ground nub steering knuckles they now are turning full lock hitting up against the screw that they hit at full turn. if you just use a longer horn and cut nubs off it wont turn as much you need to grind the pumpkin or the back of the steering rod because the rod hitting the pumpkin is what stops the steering from going full lock even with the stock servo horn.
Great job man
Had any problems with the plastic spur gear! Stripped a few teeth a little low on my first 5 minutes running the truck and now it’s clicking while driving 🥲
Hi no I bet it was adjusted and set up incorrectly from the factory.
@@ShenRC must have been. I ordered the metal transmission gears and metal spur gear. We’ll see how it goes
@@dumbledoresarmy7569 That's cool they definitely will be much stronger.
I will do this mod when I get my Gen 7, Thankx buddy~!
Best mod if you don't want to spend extra $ one extra parts! Thanks for watching =)
Thanks for sharing and nice job !!
Your welcome =)
My axles broke after Making the mod bc it was steering better but the cups was letting the axles pop out and get jammed up and I've broke a few axles and can't figure out why ik mine has some wear so maby some new wheel bearings would help but I bought a new axle and it's dislike they actually upgraded some of it but still breaks axles and I didn't think they were powerful enough to break the metal axles but they will forsure so when will they make the cups without the edges grinded open so it can hold the axles in the spindle cups better I almost wanna weld and grind the slots myself but I've been waiting for redcat to come up with a better cvaxle like front diff or am I gonna have to make one
The Everest gen 7 pro is pretty favorably reviewed on Amazon. Do you recommend it for someone new to trail trucks as a first rig?
Hi i would suggest if your going to buy the gen 7 pro get the gen 8 for a little more $ it's a much better and improved truck.
@@ShenRC The thing I don't like about the 8 is that it's noticeably slower than the 7. I won't be doing much rock crawling, more off road driving and the speed of the 7 seems good while also not too fast.
@@williamhollenbaugh2547 Hi I think your looking into the wrong type of RC for what you want it for , all these crawlers are super slow, I think you may be wanting something like a normal 4x4 1/10 scale truck for what your planing on doing.
@@ShenRC Do you mean like a Redcat Volcano 4x4 in 1/10 scale?
@@williamhollenbaugh2547 Hi please explain to me the spots and how you are going to run this new truck you want to buy and I may be able to help you out better...a crawler is slow you can't even jump it or anything you can walk faster than they go if you try walking your fastest speed.
The Everest 10 redcat aluminum caster mounts 180002 I used on my Everest ten and my gen 7 .has a lot more steering.25$upgrade
Cool!
Hi Steve, great job on the steering, have you got any hints and tips for the tamiya cc01, to make the steering any better, cause it's got crap steering as standard.
Nice video. 😀 👍 👍 👍
Hi thanks I think I have a video up..let me look... =) th-cam.com/video/_Z0qv6Zp0JU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing this, but couldn't you just put a slight bend in the steering arm and use a longer servo arm to get tighter turning radiuses?
Hi this way is so simple and you don't have to buy no extra parts otr bend anything this is why I did it so you can use all the stock parts to get sharper steering. 😊👍
Shen RC I understand using the stock parts without any extra $$$... I don't have the Gen 7 as of yet but I believe it is in the near future for me. So one final question, is the Gen 7 worth the money?
Hi thanks, the gen7 sport for $199.00 is worth it but I only feel it's worth it if you do like I did with mine mod the stock parts and don't put any extra money at all hardly into it.. I see to many guy's buy them and buy all these extra parts that in the end they could have purchased a axial or HPI or something that to me blows the gen 7 away they are much better but if you buy the gen 7 for the $199.00 and mod it like i did and don't put no extra $ into it then it's fine... but it is not the best of crawler trail rigs but it still is a great fun inexpensive capable rig.
Shen RC
I found one for a little bit less it's on the way, Thanks again for your response and videos, I will hit the subscribe 👍
I have the axial ends as well how did you get the black threaded bar out of the plastic ends. It just unscrewed from the silver bar but is tight in the stock plastic end. Cant seem to get it unthreaded
Hi you have to hold them with a pliers and un thread them.
@@ShenRC Got them out . Was afraid to ruin the threads
Fantastic tip!😉👍
Awesome thanks steve
😃👍Thanks , The new gen7 has improved steering parts you don't need to do this anymore...just set your radios steering throw less so the servo don't over turn to far and cause strain on it or it can break if you have it set with to much throw..
Good fix! Didn’t catch it completely though :-)
Good job brother, thanks for sharing 👍 👍 👍 👍
Thanks for watching =)
Just unboxed my new gen7 pro to find they had already swapped the straight trackball for a curved and notches that were there are gone
Yep they upgraded them a lot now. Thanks for watching.
The only thing that bothers me with the gen7 is, it's slow even when you completely pull the throttle trigger. Other rock crawlers are a bit faster. Now I have no clue about how to reprogram the esc on it or any other esc for that matter, what I did is I decided to swap the stock motor with a 4300kv brushless motor and replaced the stock esc and installed one from a volcano epx pro, that did the trick, its still slow, but faster, it may not have the same torque as the stock Motor and Esc, but still gets to places and still climbs very excellent. Mock me all you want, but I like to have a little speed on my RC's even if its not suppose to go fast. Fastest RC I currently have is my modified Traxxas slash 2wd. Goes 50 - 60 mph.
I wont mock you it's your RC you supposed to set it up how you like that's the fun part of this hobby is making your RC the way you like it to be, I made mine slower it was to fast for me for how I run mine I needed less speed and more power and it works great now for me =) Thanks for watching.
Dynames One Ive seen them run way faster with a 15-20T motor and a 2s lipo is all. Plenty of speed and still crawls like a champ. No need for a new ESC on my Everest 10 BC it is programmable. Idk about the gen 7
Its a crawler there supposed to be slow. Stock motor and gearing in the pro it runs out at 7.3 mph.
Well that was stupid lol you would have gotten the same speed by simply getting a bigger pinion or a lower turn brushed motor and 4300kv will never crawl good, I ran a 2150 brushless in my trx4 and it wasn't much faster than stock because guess what your transmission is the same gearing duhhhh.
Try a new servo linkage as well
HI thanks I know I can make it better by buying optional parts but I just want to keep it 100% stock and make it work better with what it is. 😊Thanks for watching
Good info 👍👍
Thank you =)
Nice tip! 👍😃👍
😊👍It's great if you do not want to put more $ into this rig like i did with mine...I see to many guy's buying so many parts that they could have just purchased a much better axial rig in the end.
My new gen 7 Pro only turns to the left. If I turn the wheel right it still turns to the left both ways. It run forward reverse ok. I have adjusted the steering trim and rates makes no difference Im stumped? So no matter which way I turn the wheel it goes left only. When I release the wheel it centers.
🤔 Strange sounds like a bad servo... do you have a extra servo/ If so plug it in the receiver and see if it works properly. If it does it's your servo.
@@ShenRC Yes i will give it a try. Also I bought a new factory curved steering bar but after I got it installed both front wheels now point outward \ / like the bar is too long? Do you need to replace other part as well?
@@ShenRC Tried a new servo same thing. Also tried pressing the reset button the receiver
Hi I am not sure I have not used this part I think you may need the updated steering knuckles to use it.
Hi make sure your plugging the servo in the proper channel in the receiver for steering. It sounds like a radio problem if everything is connected up properly and you only have steering one way.
Hey just got the gen 7 today and it’s got a ton of sloppy in the front end the I think it’s the bearings do u have any knowledge of this
Hi the only slop mine has and it's not much and I been driving mine probably for over 15 miles + in the mountains is I found when you grab a front Tires top from under the body fender and thumb under bottom of the tire you can wiggle it a bit.
Mine feels like the front tires are lose but there tight i looked at the axels and the wobble in the bearings so I ordered new bearings and metal steering knuckles so hopefully that works
Yea that's how it is but it works great I been using mine for a long time...they may have used non tight tolerance bearings or the axles that ride through have been made to not tight tolerances.
@@bryonsparkman6562 all crawlers have play or slop in the front end I have a trx4 and a scx10ii and a barrage and a Everest 10 and they are all the same.
good stuff bro
Thanks Kev
your welcome
good video bro
thanks =)
It's a nice clean job but I can't like the video or share this mod. IMHO I see problems with this in the future, weakening an already weak plastic part, especially a major component like this...well I'll just hope y'all don't experience a snapped diff or environmental problems from water & dirt.
On that note, y'all ain't the 1st I've seen do this sort of shit but I won't give y'all a thumbs down because y'all do very good work in any case & most of your mods & tips are great...just not this one.
Please don't take this as anything other than how I mean it, constructive criticism. It's easier & free to adjust your toe angle & give a slight bend to the link than to grind meat off parts. Also a lot easier to live with than a possibly bent or snapped diff.
I respect your opinion as everyone has there own, But I been into this hobby for a very looooong time and trust me when I tell you this... from shaving that small amount off the center pumpkin so the steering works like how I shown in this video will not harm anything at all. If you are going to bash and beat on the gen 7 and think a axle housing will snap down the center breaking the axle in half this will never happen you will break off the axle C carrier ends first and bend or brake the metal axle ends and most definitely break the plastic spots right off that the aluminum end links screw to and attach on the axle housing first making the whole axle worthless anyhow way before you can snap this axle straight in half by the diff area. Thanks for posting and watching my videos =)
Shen RC - I've been doing this for over 40 yrs as well & trust me, I've seen it happen, twice, just fyi. And as a Mechanic I've seen in on real vehicles as well. Nothing is impossible Sir, perhaps faulty casting idk but I like adding a few angled link ends better, just my opinion but sometimes free ain't always best.
Others my not be as careful as y'all are either & go too deep, seen that on here as well. And yep, will continue to watch.
YYC DESIGNZ twice in 40yrs isn't bad then