Suggestions for extra steps - first, a quick (and I do mean quick!) pass with a heat gun. Causes all the edges to pull back from the cuts and gets rid of any straggling fluff. Exactly HOW quick depends on the foam and the effect you're going for, so it'll take some trial and error, but once you've got it down it takes almost no time at all. (You DO sacrifice sharp edges that way, but not really any more so than with the dull pencil.) Second, add some finer texture with sand/grout/baking soda. Brush some watered-down PVA over the whole thing, sprinkle it on, and wipe off the surfaces with paper towel. Again, super quick apart from drying time, and can really add a lot. It'll also leave them very slightly heavier and more durable, which is a minor perk IMO. Anyway, glad you're back! Power outages suck. At least the surge protectors did their job though. Take care, and thanks for the vids!
I agree with you that level 2 is the most bang for your buck. The only thing I would add are some random beveled cuts off the top for erosion. I would also say that if you had gone one step further and painted these your point it would have really driven the point home. As someone who has worked with texturing XPS I know how some of the really subtle choices can have a huge impact. Really liked what you did. Keep up the awesome work.
Hey Garmin, been following your channel for a while and I love how pretty much all but a couple of buildings are painted on your shelves! It oddly makes me feel reinvigorated to go through my half-finished projects, pick one out, and finish it up.
I have found that pushing the foam in with a flat tool to make a depression usually is superior than trying to cut a thin plane away from the foam surface. Also, actual rocks make a superior texturing tool to any tinfoil ball. I reserve the tinfoil ball strictly for concrete or red bricks, the rest gets the rock treatment.
Those turned out great. Carving is probably more time effective for short walls like that, but for buildings I'm with you - glueing bricks is the way to go. Those minis look amazing BTW.
Love this level 3 technique, think Im gonna replicate that in one of my future projects :-) You are a good inspiration for a lot of my projects. keep up the good work👍🏽👍🏽
Wow. Newbie here and this is great. I have an up coming project that I'm going to use this on, even though I wasn't planning on having any carved stone on.
I was literally sitting at my desk carving and texturing XPS foam into stone, and this video came up on my recommended list. I think my computer is spying on me. Aaaanyway, nice video! I think one other thing that can go a long way in taking the next step toward realism would be varying the stone colors in the painting phase. Maybe you already do that and this was just for demo purposes though. Either way, awesome crafting content! Keep it up! 👍
Nice work. For an easier recessed block, just use the end of a Lego brick (2×8) to press in on the corners then center. You can also vary how deep and what angles.
This helps me, especially since I'm working with limited supplies and materials, and I plan on using these to upgrade my Dark Souls Board Game, as well as re-creating the Fields as well lol 🤣
I actually like all three. Level one would be good for a newer building, and then level two and three seem like they would work towards older run down ruins.
Nice stuff. I think that I'm inclined to go for around a level 2.5 when I really want something of higher quality, where I just push in some of the blocks rather than cutting them out. It's not as effective, but it still gives some 3D.
A cheap chisel set might be easier/better than knife and pencil? or at least add to them! Rounds and Vs and flats to replicate that pushing motion one.
I'm not good at carving foam either. I'm better at gluing the bricks. I am still pretty new to this hobby, so I sincerely appreciate your tutoring. I'm sorry you're having struggles, and I hope everything is all better and back to normal, soon. ♥
Suggestions for extra steps - first, a quick (and I do mean quick!) pass with a heat gun. Causes all the edges to pull back from the cuts and gets rid of any straggling fluff. Exactly HOW quick depends on the foam and the effect you're going for, so it'll take some trial and error, but once you've got it down it takes almost no time at all. (You DO sacrifice sharp edges that way, but not really any more so than with the dull pencil.) Second, add some finer texture with sand/grout/baking soda. Brush some watered-down PVA over the whole thing, sprinkle it on, and wipe off the surfaces with paper towel. Again, super quick apart from drying time, and can really add a lot. It'll also leave them very slightly heavier and more durable, which is a minor perk IMO.
Anyway, glad you're back! Power outages suck. At least the surge protectors did their job though. Take care, and thanks for the vids!
I really appreciate you're still working making videos despite having issues at home. Thanks.
I agree with you that level 2 is the most bang for your buck. The only thing I would add are some random beveled cuts off the top for erosion. I would also say that if you had gone one step further and painted these your point it would have really driven the point home. As someone who has worked with texturing XPS I know how some of the really subtle choices can have a huge impact. Really liked what you did. Keep up the awesome work.
Hey Garmin, been following your channel for a while and I love how pretty much all but a couple of buildings are painted on your shelves! It oddly makes me feel reinvigorated to go through my half-finished projects, pick one out, and finish it up.
welcome back! oh yeah, STUFF happens all the time. Glad to hear no wrecked electronics!
I have found that pushing the foam in with a flat tool to make a depression usually is superior than trying to cut a thin plane away from the foam surface. Also, actual rocks make a superior texturing tool to any tinfoil ball. I reserve the tinfoil ball strictly for concrete or red bricks, the rest gets the rock treatment.
Those turned out great. Carving is probably more time effective for short walls like that, but for buildings I'm with you - glueing bricks is the way to go. Those minis look amazing BTW.
Welcome back!
Fantastic crafting, I'm probably gonna have to make it larger for my dollhouse garden.
Hope all is settling at home 😊
Thank you for the tutorial. As a beginner, this definitely helps! ❤😊❤
Love this level 3 technique, think Im gonna replicate that in one of my future projects :-) You are a good inspiration for a lot of my projects. keep up the good work👍🏽👍🏽
A great vid as always. sometimes it's the simple techniques that go a long way.
Welcome back
Wow. Newbie here and this is great. I have an up coming project that I'm going to use this on, even though I wasn't planning on having any carved stone on.
Welcome back Gezzer
Excellent - left no choice but to sub!
Thanks - Level 2 is great. I like to add a few cracks on some of the stones.
Thanks for the advice!
Good one, dude. I see Level 2 being the best for me, I'm not doing museum quality stuff. Thanks, keep up the good work.
Excellent! Very informative! Thanks for making this. Definitely going to try level 2 and 3!👍
I was literally sitting at my desk carving and texturing XPS foam into stone, and this video came up on my recommended list. I think my computer is spying on me. Aaaanyway, nice video! I think one other thing that can go a long way in taking the next step toward realism would be varying the stone colors in the painting phase. Maybe you already do that and this was just for demo purposes though. Either way, awesome crafting content! Keep it up! 👍
Nice! Makes me think of my first attempts, def lvl1. You have given me some simple but new options. Always appreciated!
Superb job level 2-2.5 is what I plan to strive for
Nice work. For an easier recessed block, just use the end of a Lego brick (2×8) to press in on the corners then center. You can also vary how deep and what angles.
Dude these look aswesome.
Also I'm wondering do you need to prime them before painting?
This helps me, especially since I'm working with limited supplies and materials, and I plan on using these to upgrade my Dark Souls Board Game, as well as re-creating the Fields as well lol 🤣
Nice! Glad we could help!
I actually like all three. Level one would be good for a newer building, and then level two and three seem like they would work towards older run down ruins.
Sound reasoning! I like this plan.
Super merci 👍
Nice stuff. I think that I'm inclined to go for around a level 2.5 when I really want something of higher quality, where I just push in some of the blocks rather than cutting them out. It's not as effective, but it still gives some 3D.
Just beginning in this hobby. I love it! Never used foam before. What kind do you recommend? Love your channel bro!
Well there are several different brands and I have yet to find a difference in any of them. The type of foam is XPS foam! Welcome to the hobby!
I'll check at Home Depot. Thanks!
What paints do you use for the painting process? I have a hard time getting nice looking grey/blue stone.
A cheap chisel set might be easier/better than knife and pencil? or at least add to them! Rounds and Vs and flats to replicate that pushing motion one.
Hi, where can I order foam from?
👍
Level 1 os fine - if it needs to look better I do brickwork ❤
I think that 1,2, and 3 would have a different application for the level ruins you would be making. From new building to ancient.
I'm not good at carving foam either. I'm better at gluing the bricks. I am still pretty new to this hobby, so I sincerely appreciate your tutoring. I'm sorry you're having struggles, and I hope everything is all better and back to normal, soon. ♥
w00t
okay, im getting taco bell
Product placement * ALERT *
- Taco Bell Mountain Dew- (Baja Blast?)
Seriously, though - Great tip - Thanks!