EGO 56V 5Ah Battery Repair (2P pack repair #1) FUSE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we have a EGO 5Ah Battery on the bench. I purchased this item as a non-working for parts from ebay for around $55 USD. I just wanted to find out what the differences in the larger capacity battery may be and see what failed inside. It ended up being similar and it was a very fortunate easy fix. I will keep you up to date if the 30A fuse holds up under heavier loads in the near future. I may have to get creative with a 40 or 50A fuse replacement if I do have any issues. Hope it helps and Thanks for watching!
* update 4-14-2020: I have not had any issues with the 30A fuse in any tool I have. it's been holding up well!
*update 8-6-20: I ended up soldering in a 40A metal fuse links in this pack as a permanent fix and have not had any issues!
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Dude, awesome! Thanks for posting this. It's always interesting to see how a company built something and the simple fixes to what would otherwise be expensive replacements.
I like to say TY I have and EGO 56V and by watching your video I fix it. It was blinking red and found it was a dirty contacts. TY again great information. I'm 67 years old and always wanted to work on electronics and your video give me that insight.
Awesome job. Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for the video. Took apart my 5A 56v battery that would not charge. On the charger it was just solid red. Had 46v on the battery. Checked the contacts looked black. Took out the contact board so I could get to clean them better. Filed down a wooden paddle (lolly pop stick) put some alcohol on it and cleaned those puppies right up. The stick turned black as. Put the pack together and PTL we got it charging. Thanks for your help.
Just did the fuse replacement with a 30amp automobile fuse just like in the video. Worked like a charm!
Just remember it may be more temporary. I put a 40A fuse link in for a more permanent repair. These packs can easily hit more than 30A for a short duration.
Thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Would I expect that if the 30amp fuse blows in the battery, then the same behavior as before will start to happen again?
@@Guitrum
Absolutely could, but just know some of the blowers can pull up to 30A on turbo believe it or not! The mowers I have seen have a 40A fuse.
I got the red flash. Watched this, disassembled completely,still 53v. cleaned the contacts and now have green. Thumbs up.
Thanks for the video, I also cleaned the contacts ( 2000 sandpaper ) and it's going way better, I've never leaf blown the section without running out of power & after cleaning the contacts it never skipped a beat.
Can you say more about what contacts you cleaned with sandpaper?
The new ones still go bad... after 7 uses. Customer service have been useless.. Thank you for the video, I may be able to salvage it.
I had the same issue with my 5 amp battery, It died in 4 weeks. But customer service is helpful and is sending me a new battery
I've got 1 7.5, 1 2.5, and 3 5.0 (2 older, 1 newer) varying from 5 years old to 3 years with no real issues yet. The only thing the 7.5 goes in is the mower. That's my oldest battery. This year through I did notice a decrease in life though at the start of the season.
Took apart a brand new made in July 2024 2800T 5AH battery and the trace is 4.2mm wide exactly. It is not a "part" just copper trace on the board itself at that width.
I just mentioned that in a EGO 5Ah pack repair last week that I had the older style here, but as shared in the Facebook group On The Bench some newer ones had the trace right on the main PCB and viewers share photos there as well. It's also interesting how the larger like 10Ah packs have multiples of 60A SMD fuses that can self activate if a pack problem is detected. It's wild. Thanks for sharing!
Super helpful. I have the same fuse out on my 5 Ah. Very clever use of the car fuse.
I just took apart a 2.5Ah Ego battery to troubleshoot why it isn't working... And the end cap was way more stubborn coming off than what you show in the videos. And when it did release the 6 small wires pulled out of the connector in the cap. You might consider including a warning about this. My pack is done now for sure. No way I can restore that connector.
I do have more recent videos such as 4ah pack repair videos that I mention that already. If I only knew how to get all of hours of video to include everything and still be only 10-20 minutes long I would have alot more subscribers for sure! I can't go back and change a 3 year old video but I do have newer ones that I try hard to fill in gaps on. Hate you had the issue, thanks for sharing the information.
Thanks for the video on how to disassemble the 56V 5Ah battery. Mine is used for the mower and wouldn't go through the charge cycle with the fan starting. Opened it up and everything looked OK. Started cleaning the contacts with emery paper and some film came out. Cleaned the 4 contacts best I could by sliding the emery paper between the contacts. Also, used a que-tip and rubbing alcohol on the charger contacts. Put it onto the charger and the fan started and its charging again. Not the first time li-ion batteries gave me trouble from the charging contacts. As the unit gets older may need to be cleaned more frequently.
I have to vent, and then I'll post a question separately. :) So, I have had my mower for 4 years. This spring, I ran my mover with my 7.5 Ah battery once, and there was absolutely no trouble. The very next time I used the mower, it ran for about 10 or 15 seconds before stopping. If I popped open the lid, removed and reseated the battery, it ran briefly again before stopping. Popping it on the fast charger indicated the battery was charged. After trying some tricks suggested by the eGo community, it still doesn't work. You would think after four years, eGo would have either a repair service or some sort of refurbishing/core exchange program. People like me who don't know how to work with electronics (especially how to use a multimeter) are at a loss. $350 to replace such a battery is disappointing, and not being able to get it repaired by eGo is equally disappointing. All they tell me is to turn the pack in to a recycling center that accepts Li-ion batteries. I suppose buying a new pack works out to $85 a year plus the cost of charging versus paying for gasoline, having to prep the mower for fall storage, and hoping you can restart the mower the following spring. Paying $350 in one fell swoop takes my breath away, though.
Yeah, it is alot of money. Sorry you are having issues. I hope to get at least 8 years out of my packs. I have only had the one failure and within warranty and EGO was really good about that one. I was able to keep and repair it, that was one of my first EGO videos. I will not be going back to gas at this point, but yes if I lost a big pack it would be painful.
Hopefully you will have luck getting it back going!
What irks me the most is the 7.5ah is $350-400 to replace, you can get the whole mower + 5ah for that price, but worse, you can get a brand new backpack blower with that 7.5ah battery for $300 ($50 cheaper), while the backpack blower sans battery is $200.
I really enjoy this mower when it's working properly, but it really should last more than 4 years (or ~200 hours)
I ORIGINALLY POSTED THIS ONE YEAR AGO. I AM REPOSTING IT IN CASE ANYONE HASN'T TRIED,
"THE BANG TRICK WORKED .SO glad I saw the comments about banging the battery from about a foot off the ground and dropping it. IT WORKED I had THREE bad batteries. ALL THREE have been working GREAT since May and I recharge and use the OFTEN. HOLY GUACAMOLE. Those three bad ones were here for over a year. I bought two news ones for 200 bucks a piece but something told me NOT to throw those bad ones out. THREE bad batteries now working PERFECTLY for five months with CONSTANT charging. I have the lawn mower, leaf blower and snow blower and I use the blower daily and the lawn mower once per week. HUGE area. SO glad I was the comments about BANGING the batteries. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU"
Very happy that you are able to save the batteries pack and use it again. This is very cool. =D
Hot air rework unit would make quick work of that stuff.
Yes, I like my Hot air station for sure. I use mine often on the SMD repairs etc. I don't use it on these close to the plastic connectors though.
just get a Automotive MAXI Fuse 60 Amp, with some heavy gauge wire (pig tails) soldered on. so you could have some placement flexibility. Then just electrical tape with heat shrink, should be able to handle the load. Cheers!
I either mentioned that in this video or the next one. That you could do that if wanted. As also mentioned I added a fuse link to mine for permanent fix. This was more of an awareness video while troubleshooting. Just sharing....
Used my ego saw a few months then it quit. Spent long hours on hold, finally they sent a new saw, not the problem,sent it back. More time on hold and they sent a new charger, not the problem now waiting on a battery. Like the way it cuts but maybe should have went back to the Oregon
That has to be frustrating for sure!
Hopefully the battery takes care of the issue. That's the most common issue I would think.
Looks like a current shunt. If you do a search for GPU power limit bypass, you'll see them used on Graphics cards to determine the amount of current going thru the connector.
It does look very similar to a SM shunt. This one is in fact a PC trace fuse though. I am not sure at what current the shunt would fail at? I ended up soldering a 40A fuse link accross mine for a more permanent fix. Thanks for your comment.
Great video! I just bought the pole saw attatchmet for my powerhead. I was using it to cut back some arborvitaes & think i knicked my wire fence. The powerhead abruptly stopped & after i checked to make sure nothing was bound up, it wouldnt do anything. Full charge, chain on saw spins, just no go in the powerhead. Does this sound like something that may have blown the fuse in the battery & why my powerhead isnt working? I dont have another battery to test out the tool & need to get the right bit for those screws. I was just hoping to not spend $ on a battery, especially if thats not the problem, whole setup (minus pole saw) is only a year old, but i cannot for the life of me find my receipt. Thanks for this vid, great work 👍
It could be a fuse in the pack for sure. The best way to check (since you don't have another one to verify) is to put a multi-meter on the packs + & - terminals and see if you have voltage there. It should be around 56V depending on charge. If the fuse is blown it will not read any voltage. Hope it helps and thanks for your kind comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed yea I went to do that, but my cheap voltmeter prongs aren't long enough to reach the batteries +/- terminals in/on the pack. I'll figure that out or borrow my buddies meter right up the road, country living ftw 😁 Thanks for the reply, I'll start with testing that, definitely subscribing to your channel & have youreself a great day! 👍
Thank you Sir
Very interesting. Was thinking about getting an Ego chainsaw and wanted to see some videos on how hard they are to troubleshoot. Great video man. Also what kind of accent is that Carolina’s? Thanks for the info.
Georgia!
I do like the EGO equipment. The chainsaw impressed me. Love my edger and string trimmer. Don't plan on going back to gas.
Thanks for your comment.
I was gonna try to repair one of my batteries until i saw this 😵💫
Some are simple fixes and some not so much...
Thanks for video.
30a at 54v is a 1600w load ...seems like a 15a might be more appropriate depending on wire size?
What gives you this thought exactly?
30 amps times 56 volts is roughly 1650 watts. I'd leave the 30 in there.
You could. It will eventually blow though. Many larger loads like the mower and chainsaw can easily bump above 30A at times during start up or stall (not long term). The newer blowers push it as well in turbo mode. The 2P packs should be at least 40A and maybe even 50A. Most cells used in packs are rated for up to 30A and 2P packs means they can supply 60A at high demand. The LM2100 mower has a 40A fuse in it also. I would want the pack to be fused higher than anything I was using it in.
Great vid, I just got an Ego there a few weeks back and the battery won't charge more than 2-3 bars. Gonna mow the lawn a few more times before I call them about it and get a replacement.
BTW I cant tell are they 11850s with something wrapped around them or something else. Any idea?
OLT The fuse should be independent of the total amp-hour rating since it deals with spikes in current..
The cells are 18650 cells with a phase change sleeve.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed Yes I meant 18650. I think 11850 is a directory enquires phone number where I'm from lol. That should make it trivial to fix the battery down the line. I've never heard of phase change sleeves so I'll have to do a bit of googling. Thanks for the reply.
Hey just curious any issues with the 30A fuse yet?
I have not had any issues yet!
Hello again, back with info that may help others. I had an old (2018) working single-eye BA2800 that is about cell depleted, so I pulled it apart with the intent of swapping that MOBO end cap onto a one year old 2800T five-eye pack with dead MOBO. Besides the screw pattern, all the wiring and connectors appeared identical, so I swapped the end caps and it all works. Allowed me to save a pack with good cells, thanks for your inspiriting tutorials! Would you know if this MOBO swap would work across different A-H batteries?
Hi,
I have shared in some videos over the years of the boards being swapped out in a couple of packs and a couple of things to consider. First of all if they are different gen packs the connectors will be different. I point that out in a few videos that the Gen 1 packs as I call them seem to have smaller connectors. These to me were the earliest packs that were 2ah and 4ah etc. If I have it right the 2nd gen packs were the 2.5ah and the 5.0ah possibly even the 7.5ah( I am unsure when the 7.5ah came out). The newer segmented fuel gauge would be 3rd gen? (I know nothing about those yet really). As far as I can tell the BMS will swap out within the same generation packs, but we have to consider a couple of things. So, the different ah packs do have a different program in the BMS microcontroller. The D-terminal communication with the tool let's some tools know which pack is installed. This is not a huge deal in most tools. It will however limit output of the chainsaw for example and it may not work correctly with the portable power station at least for displaying run time. One of the things that maybe bad about this swap out is the fact that the 2.5ah BMS for example does not look at the middle temperature monitoring boards that the larger packs have in the middle of the pack for monitoring. The connectors are the same but it does not look at the monitoring boards atleast that is what I believe to be happening. I am sure it's more to it than I know as well. For testing I have swapped these out for sure, may not be the best long term solution. Thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Looking at my list of serial #s, the early single-eye dated 1-18 is listed as NBA041, the three 5-segmented (1-20, 9-20, 5-21) are all NBA092, and a newly purchased BA2800T dated 3-22 is also NBA092. Perhaps, as you say, there is an earlier version single eye, as these above all have the same connectors. If I could figure out how to contact you, or you me, I'd send you the 2800T end cap with bad BMS for experimentation.
@@russellselkirk3956 Great Information thanks for sharing.
I have a Facebook page for further contact and sharing of some files etc. (The Facebook link is on my TH-cam channel main page)
@@ThriftyToolShed I'm not on social media but will see if my D-i-L can find you there, thanks!
Well done! ✌😊
I have a 3yr old 5.0 battery that the test thingy shows red and it won’t run the leaf blower but 1 sec. I checked across contacts with a meter and it shows 56.?? Volts. Any ideas?
A couple of checks would be contact points number one. Check connections and clean so to make sure of a great connection with the tool. If that's fine then go around and check all the cells inside the pack as I show in several videos and make sure it's not one or more cells pulling down low. If all cells check good it may be a bad BMS board. Best of luck to ya!
Thanks for the video. I have a question on a non working 56v battery that is flashing red. I checked the power and it shows 60V of power, so it seems to have good voltage, but still does not charge or work. Does this mean it has a bad ntc? If so, what is needed to by-pass or fix?
I know the packs charge to 58V typically, I must say I have not read one at 60V yet. That is close to over voltage, I say that because if some individual cells have issues that means some cells could possibly be under and some over the average of 4.3V on that 60V? I would check each individual cell voltage and see if they are all reading ok. Also, is the pack flashing red when you press button right away or is it showing solid green first and then blinking red after a couple seconds?
The NTC's typically read somewhere around 10k ohms at room temp, I talked about this some in the video "what is the T-terminal" it is 3 termistors on the 2.5ah pack.
@@ThriftyToolShed i have a battery that does what you said, blinks green, then red. What does that mean? Appreciate your help.
@@vujohan well if it is blinking green it is usually shorted Q12 transistor as mentioned in the first 56V pack BMS repair. If also blinking red, that is usually low cell detected. I showed this in the 4ah pack repair#3.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much!!!!
Going back to gas. I don't have the electronics background for these DIY repairs. EGO batteries and motors are expensive and only good for 3-5 years...
I do understand. Battery powered equipment has to catch up to 100 years of engineering in gas powered design for sure. I am amazed at how far the Lithium and BLDC has came in the last 5 years. I believe within 7 years it will completely take over. It still has some improvements to make for sure. With gas engines having about 20% effeciency at best, the new brushless BLDC will eventually be the ticket! Maybe....🤣
@@ThriftyToolShed I was surprised to find out how much energy there is in gasoline. So I will be holding on to my Still chain saw and weed eater as well. Electric is great for convenience but gas has a lot more energy.
No doubt. Lots of energy indeed. Scary amounts of energy. We have had nothing close to keeping up with the power of gasoline (even though the efficiency is horrible with all the explosive heat generated). Li-ion and BLDC is the first platform to even compete at all. My thoughts are by the next platform, whether graphene/solid state style cells we will be close to that level. I really like Li-ion. The power is unreal for the weight and size, but unfortunately we have to get to another platform to get away from the plague of issues with them being so finicky about heat, over discharge, underdischarge, cold etc. I have a feeling we will surpass gasoline performance in 15 years! 🤔
Not an electronics guy so I may be wrong but I thought as voltage goes up amperage goes down so a 12 volt 30 amp fuse is like 60 amps at 56 volts right?
Well 12v is just the rating. Of course just as wire gauge it is based on the actual current the insulation has a voltage rating. I mentioned this was just for testing. I purchase metal fuse links 40A and 50A variety and soldered one in once I received them. Hope this answers your question?
Where do you recommend buy the replacement batteries from and which model (18650 2500mAh 20A Battery)?
I had bought several bad or non working packs of eBay years ago and fixed most of them and a couple I just parted out the cells that were in like new condition and capacity. I just use a CC or constant current supply to charge up individual cells to the same voltage charge level as the pack I am repairing. Several viewers have commented about the cells they believe the packs they have in them...
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX.
(Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
If you don't mind me asking your opinion... I have a 7.5ah battery that doesn't show any lights or function when the button is pressed. It's reading 56v after a charge and seems to hold well. I've tried swapping the bms with another non-functioning battery that originally had dead cells so I thought the bms I was swapping was good. Any ideas?
This is puzzling. I have not had a issue just like that. When a fuse is blown it will not have output or charge. I do not believe a broken wire to BMS will still allow charging and run the tool. A broken wire will stop the lights from working....
I have never worked on the 7.5Ah pack, but I assume the BMS is very close to the same, just more connections. If the replaced BMS is doing the same thing though, I would double check the wires on the connectors themselves. Also as mentioned in the video I have about the cell wiring, when you press the button it should wake up and have 10V or so accross the Capacitor on the DC-DC conveter. Best of luck to ya! Let us know what you find.
Thanks for all the great Ego vids, TTS!
Can you tell me what the circuit boards do that are between the two cell packs on these batteries? I looked through most of your videos but didn't see anything on it.
I just installed all new cells on my 5.0 and got it all put back together but I seem to have snapped off one of the small rectangular electronic bits that lay right on the end of each cell.
When assembled, it started arcing between the circuit board and that cell until I could unscrew the housing and remove everything.
I actually have not worked on the 5ah that far yet. I have been asked that alot and I have one I need to get into this week! So maybe I will find out real soon. I will mention that some the comments with others, it's been mentioned these in-between boards seemed to them to have thermal cut-offs? I am not sure if they are real thermal cut-offs or if thermistors?
@@ThriftyToolShed Right. I thought they might be a temperature monitor of some type because of the way they're placed at one end of each cell, but you know much more about electronics than I do. I'll see if the pack works without the one little "sensor".
@@joelnowlin807
That will be interesting for sure, I would think it would cause issue if not in circuit. Keep us posted!
@@ThriftyToolShed You make a terrific vid Mr. TTS, however, _Alot_ is a town in India and _a lot_ is more than one of something.
@@coloradostrong
Thanks for the somewhat compliment and I also like feedback on what could be better, however, I'd rather someone just say when and where the issue was since it could have been years ago since a video was uploaded and I surely make many mistakes for sure. I hope whatever it is that everyone knew I was not talking about some town in India! Not all words are as easy to spell as smart or ass.
So if I have 0 V at the pack before the fuse to the BMS I’m hosed?
More than likely. Very unusual to get a pack back after that. Either all cells have gone that low or at least one set has opened up or CID has activated.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the info, I figured but didn't want to confirm it. The batteries are only 5yrs old. This is making me question my deep dive into Ego. I have a bunch of their products.
Do you feel the second gen batteries and BMS will last longer? These things are insanely expensive.
@BYack
Yes they are expensive. I only had one failure of all that I bought new. It was the pack I had the very first EGO repair video on. I bought more bad ones (eBay) so we could learn more about repair, but no other failures on any of my originals yet, which are all most likely out of warranty by now. I will say EGO warranty is really good as long as you have receipt and from an authorized seller. I am happy with the 2nd gen packs the 3rd gen with fuel gauge will hopefully be even better. One thing for sure though, with all the issues with cells and boards and the heat build up etc. we will still have issues until we move away from lithium-ion technology. I love the power of Li-ion but it's too sensitive to thermal changes, over discharging, over charging etc. we will not pass these issues until Solid State battery technology would be my guess. I do look forward to the next platform of batteries whatever that may truly be, but I am enjoying Lithium at the moment that has at least given us a cordless tool that is truly the first that can even come close to competing with the power of Gas. Hopefully by supporting this current platform collectively we are all helping push the technology into on the next level. Wishing you the best with the rest of your EGO equipment.
My 7.5 just started not charging. The button doesn't light up at all and charge indicator never goes beyond first bar. When I put it to use it runs for few seconds and dies. Anyone know what the problem could be?
Bought the 5.0 amp hr. Battery in 2021. Charge it. Took it out of the charger. Let it sit for two months. Walked by it. The light on the battery was on all red. And was hot to the touch. Put it back in the charger. The lights did not come on. Let it sit in the charger 24 hrs. Took it off charge. Pushed the button . It said it had a full charge. Is this normal?
Yes, this in what EGO calls maintain mode. The manual for the older style packs mentioned after 30 days of storage the pack will self discharge down to 30% for storage. It also states the pack will blink green, but the only time I seen mine truly blink green is when it was faulty and blinking green all the time. It would pull the pack to zero in this case, due to a shorted transistor as I shared in my very first EGO pack repair video. I have seen the ends be warm from discharge and at times even have the red LED lit as you described. Sounds like a normal feature of the pack in storage.
Hit the 1K likes for you! Very helpful video - thanks
awesome! Thanks!
Hi would you have a good top off a 6Ah that you would consider selling and sending to the UK cheers Alex
I do not sorry.
Thanks for the vid! I'm going to stick something up here I'm trying to troubleshoot, see if anyone has any ideas... I used to be a software QA guy so I'm pretty good with details if there is a bored egineer who likes solving problems.
I'm trying to trouble shoot an EGO 2nd Gen 5.0 Ah battery... I've had it 4 months and EGO is sending me a replacement because it is under warranty, but I'm still trying to salvage what I can because it has only been used 4 months and was manufatured in December of 2020.
After charging to full and using the battery, regardless of the use it runs down 2 notches on the circular batter indicator (roughly 10 minutes of opperation full throttle turbo on the 650cfm blower) and then shuts down... If I push the battery button it flashes red. If I try to run the device again it doesn't work.
If I take the battery out of the equipment and push the battery button again, it will tell me I still have 4 green good cells.
If then I put it back in the tool and run it, I get 5-10 seconds of opperation before the battery shuts down again. And again if I hit the battery indicatory while its in the device, it just flashes red...
Now, whether I charge it up on the normal or speed charger, the battery will top off again with power. But, if I run it, it will only run those first 2 cells before flashing red again...
What gets me is this, how can the battery when its out of the device tell me it still has 4 green good cells worth of power, but when in a tool its sudden red and not functional? And is this the key to possibly fixing it?
And one other strange symptom, it wasn't always like this... it just progressively got worse... Over the summer I would run my 650 cfm blower on full throttle turbo and get roughly 22-23 minutes of full power blowing... And I would run the battery all the way down before charging it all the way up again on a weekly basis. It was about a month ago that I noticed if I ran the blower on turbo, after about 10 minutes it would auto shut off... Now, if I took the battery out and put it back in, it would run on turbo about 10 seconds and auto shut off.... but, if I ran the blower full throttle without the turbo, it worked just fine... Fast forward a month, now I can't run it full throttle turbo, full throttle, or any throttle without an auto shut off aftger 10 minutes of use.... So, is constant use of the Turbo on the 650 cfm battery destroying the battery?
I'm going to try some experiments, running the battery down using the chainsaw, it just so strange how the blower shuts down yet the battery displays it still has power.
It surely sounds as if at least one of the cells has a lower capacity than the others. It seems maybe one or more of the cells is pulling down closer to the 2.8-3V low voltage cutout prematurely. It could even be a loose connection from the cells to the BMS making it think that this is the case as well. I would at least check all connections well and if no luck there I would check all the individual cell voltage levels after it pulls down low and cuts off on you. That should show if you have a particular cell issue.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the reply... One other thing I forgot to mention, it was 100-105 degrees out when it first started malfunctioning...
One last bit of new info on this issue... I was able to run the battery all the way down from full to empty on the weed whacker... I just zip tied the trigger and ran it down... no auto shutdown, nothing like the behavior on the blower....
As for recharging... putting it on the speed charger total empty it charged about 10 minutes before there was a flashing red error on the speed charger and the charging stopped...
But, if I put it on the poopy charger it charged it up all the way no problem...
What the HECK? Why would it error out on the blower and speed charger, but not on lower draw tools and chargers....
Gonna zip tie the trigger on the Chainsaw, see if it will run down on that one... I will try not to die...
@@jimvick8397
You will absolutely get way more runtime from weed Wacker and chainsaw than the blower. The blower is a battery eater. It surprises most people how much current the blowers use to move that much air. It is the first tool to show a battery issue for me as well. So if you do have a cell issue I can maybe see how the high drain of the blower as well as the higher charge current of the fast charger could show the issue faster if that makes sense. The only way to know for sure to make sure is once the pack is pulled down to the red or flashing red you will have to check the cells inside and see if one of the 14 sets of cells is alot lower than the others like it's dropping off too fast due to lost capacity.
@@ThriftyToolShed Another great point... Instead of trying to repair this battery, I will just use it on my lower draw tools until I get my replacement battery and verify that it works, then I will risk breaking down this funky battery and testing it out... Hmm... with equipment so expensive they really should have an auto shut down for overheating scenarios... I mean, how could the EGO QA team miss this? I'm sure this is the one of the main causes of their battery malfunctions.
I'm sure the crazy heat wave is what did it to mine... Even starting at 7am, it was friggen 100 degrees by noon. I was using the blower full throttle turbo in mid to upper 90's heat no problem, but as soon as it was 100+, that is when this funkiness kicked in.
Great video...thanks.
😊
Does it matter if it's different size?
Hi,
It's been a while...
Which size of what exactly?
@ThriftyToolShed 7.5 ah, 56 volt. The battery says it's full in the charger, but only has one bar when in use. This is after 3 days of charging.
It could possibly be some of the cells have lost capacity. So some cells could be fully charged and not charging any further and the lower capacity cells have depleted more and not charged fully. When you use it it will delete much quicker than when new.
@@ThriftyToolShed what's my recourse then?
If it is by chance under warranty then contact EGO. If it is not in warranty and it is in fact the issue I mentioned by testing with meter to find out then you can possibly save the pack by getting all cells back balanced and see if it holds better, usually it needs cells replaced. I have mentioned this in older repair videos. Some of the earlier EGO repairs I talk some on this. Best of luck to ya with yours.
Hello sir they be any chance I can send you my ego 56v 5Ah with a return label and see if you can fix for me if it make sense? (service price)
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repiar service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair. I don't have alot of time left, I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Does anybody know of a UK electronics company that would attempt a repair of my 7.5Ah battery? All the people I have spoken to seem to be quite afraid of rechargeable batteries.
Your video's are excellent. Of course, I'm not as handy as you. I have a 56v 5.0ah Ego Battery (less than 1 year old and not used that much...via warranty I received a new battery...but I'd like to fix it if possible) that shows no charge on the battery or even when you put it on the charger. I know the charger works as my other two batteries charge on it. I used my Voltmeter and when I check the voltage on the Neg & Pos, it shows 56v. So I'm assuming the issue with the board. Can you direct me to the correct video for me to learn from ... and I'll see if I can fix it. Thank you.
It is most likely in the board just as you mentioned. I do not have a video on that exact issue but I do have a couple that may help some. I have one on a overall BMS repair. I have one about corrosion on the connectors causing a issue. I would check the connection to the board because the 56V has a connector at the bottom of the board. It is sealed up well, but I still see corrosion issues from time to time. If the 56V is getting to the board then it could be in the DC-DC converter on board, which I touch on in some videos, but I have not had alot of these issues and no schematic so it's difficult sometimes. At least the potting on all mine has not been terrible to get off. Just be careful and go slow. Cut around the edges and work slow from the edges inward. I will post a link to a few below that may help get you in the right direction at least. Best of luck to ya!
th-cam.com/video/dJ8SACpmhVQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/w-d-xo.html
I have some batteries and I'm looking for someone to repair me 🙂
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
WARNING: When pulling apart the end with the power button, be careful to do this gently. Mine would not budge, then let loose, pulled off some of the wires which subsequently shorted and now I have a bit more complicated project on my hands.
Absolutely, that is mentioned in a few videos and many comments. Some are stuck a little more than others at times.
Thank you for helping me fix a 4Ah ego battery with this technique. I had a blown fuse and replaced with a 30A automotive.
Awesome job. Just as a reminder the 30A may not hold up for all loads. The mower or chainsaw for example could possibly demand more than the 30A can stand in certain situations. Mine held up just fine until I got in a 40A fuse link and soldered in place. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for these videos, I'm gonna watch them to try to diagnose my Ego battery (it's an intermittent fault).
If you don't have small enough 40 A fuses, you might solder two 20 A fuses in parallel...
Excellent video man thank you for doing this. I have 4 batteries for 3 different devices that are still under warranty one which is giving me errors and charging issues. I'm looking forward to whatever EGO is going to do for me but as soon as I'm out of warranty on these expensive things I'm going to be coming back to this video! My little DIY solder gun won't be up to the task tho so I guess I'll need an upgrade! Thanks again!
Did EGO replace your battery under warranty? Wandering how long did it take them to send you new one?
@@damirka83 things got out of hand and I dropped the ball. I was just in my shed this past weekend and kicked myself in the butt that I've got to get in touch with ego about this.
@@damirka83 I've had two fail in the last 3 weeks. I called them and registered them over the phone. They did a minute or so of troubleshooting and then sent me new ones. They arrived within a week. Very easy to deal with.
I'll be blunt.
I'm disgusted by this brand. I bought 2 blowers and a trimmer last summer 2021. In total, we have 2 x 5.0AH batteries and 1 2.5AH battery. (56v)
This being the 2nd summer - both of the 5.0AH batteries are having great difficulty charging, or even holding the charge.
You place it on the charger and not more than 10 minutes later, it stops charging. Sometimes, of the 5 flashing bars - it will drop right back down to 2 bars, after supposedly charging higher than that. I have to babysit the battery/charger by coming back every 10 minutes or so, to reseat the battery to begin charging again.
They are really expensive products and I haven't used them that much at all. We're talking maybe every other weekend for 1/2 hr. to 45 minutes per use.
Disappointed would be an understatement. I'm going through warranty replacement.
@@CH-jq7xg Good to hear - I'm going through warranty as well. I already registered everything last summer 2021, so everything should be on file.
Thanks for the video, I have a 4.0 amp hour battery and it had the exact same symptoms. Taking it apart I couldn't find any remnants of a fuse, maybe at never had one and the board was defective from the beginning. I got this battery 2+ yrs ago as part of an open box from Home Depot with my chainsaw. I don't think it even went with that chainsaw because he had to find the battery over to the side, that is why I didn't try to warranty through Ego, and it was marked "as is" from Home Depot. Soldered in a fuse an it now works.
Great job. Always a great feeling giving new life to a nice tool or equipment! Sounds like you may have saved some money on the open box as well!👍
That's a store marking (as is). Never needed to try with ego but have done so with other items. Never run into a company that wouldn't honor warranty if for no other reason than to make me happy.
It's sad when manufacturers solder fuses to boards. 99.9% of people toss them instead of replacing which definitely takes some skill. Why not a user replaceable fuse and slot. I'd even go with a proprietary size and shape to insure correct voltage, etc.
I had the same problem years ago on a Black and Decker air station. Glass fuse was soldered to the circuit board and it failed in the first few uses. I replaced it with a fuse holder I could access from the side of the unit near the switch. Hasn't failed since!
PSA, friends don't let friends buy B&D tools.
Very nicely done sir!
I appreciate the informative video!
Great video i wish i had the knowledge and understanding you have to be able to make these repairs should i ever need to.
I got a laptop for $5 like this. Pulled it apart and discovered the fuse has blown. 😎
What fuse would a 2.5a battery need?
I believe the 30A fuse would be fine for the 2.5ah. if you would like to use a piece of fuse link like I did, I cut this is an example link down and soldered them in place of the factory trace fuse.
amzn.to/3obxME8
If you rather be safe and go with the 40A versions, then this is an example link...
amzn.to/3IKALN6
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the info, will give it a go :)
This is a great video and very helpful. I’m gonna try this fix.
I just did a fix on the two soldered in fuses on the power distribution board the SNT 2100 snowblower, by installing replaceable fuses. I had to go to MAXI fuses in order to do 60 amps. Might the battery fuse need to be 60 amps also?
DON'T understand ANY of this electrical stuff BUT I'm digging how you used a auto fuse to fix it, I would think it would be beneficial to of soldered one of those auto fuse holders to the terminals & located the actual fuse OUTSIDE the case for future replacement of the fuses when they blow
Yes, I almost did that with a fuse holder and drilled hole to route outside. I instead used a fuse link to more permanently fix it. I later soldered on the 40A metal fuse link strip for 2 reasons: The main reason is that the automotive fuse even though it worked well temporary it was not rated for 60V. The other reason is 30A may not be enough for some heavier loads such as mower or chainsaw. It did fine with weed trimmers and blowers though.
Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed 😳💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕
Wish I had your tech skills and logical calm thinking brain sir!
Thank you so much for your kind comment! I have always liked sharing what we learn as we go because if I can do it so can anyone else who desires to! I wish I could show even more detail in most videos. I never dreamed how hard it would be to cut a video down so it's not super long and boring and still keep in the important parts!
Hi, I’ve got a 10ah battery with BMS (fuel gauge) on my Z6 mower. It seems to be completely non-responsive and yet it only has about 8 charge cycles on the battery so it’s brand new. I’ve never discharged it below 30%. Anyways, do you know of anywhere I could send this battery to be repaired/refurbished or send it as a “core” and get 2 smaller 5ah batteries in lieu of it?
I don't know of anywhere. Is it still under warranty so EGO will send replacement or have you already done that.
If you already have a replacement and just want that one swapped out I have 2 5ah packs I would send, but they are both the older 2nd gen packs. The ones with the one LED for the charge indicator?
LOVE THIS CHANNEL. New Subscriber in Austin Texas! Currently looking to replace a Mod# BA2240 Ego battery (56V, 4.0 AH) that turned my mower into a lonely sculpture. Seems 4.0 AH was discontinued. Grr. Looking at "investing" $250 in a 5.0 AH ($250 for A BATTERY!)
Now, my tinker heart wants to crack open my old 4.0 AH and see if it only needs a $2 fuse!!!! I know soldering. And the old battery was heading to a recycling bin, anyway. Nothing to lose and $245 to save! YES. I will be cautious. Daddy taught me well. I will plan to touch-back with a debrief for you. --- Rock on!
Yes, safety first always, then lots of fun. Best of luck to ya!
Did you ever get around to experimenting on the 4.0amp battery to see if you can get it going again?
Mine went bad, they sent a new one too. However fixing the old has been on my to do list. It currently only charges to 23.3V, any immediate suggestions?
Most likely have to check all the cells. Some may have lost capacity and read low and are beyond useful life. Charging up the cells can help get some life out of the pack if the cells will take a charge without dropping back off. I usually either replace all cells new or replace a few bad ones with ones that I have tested as spares with roughly the same capacity test results. I shared some of this in a video called Lithium battery FAQ#1.
HaHa, that was sweet! Man I enjoyed watching that. I'm gonna order one off eBay and do the same thing just for fun lol Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the video. Nice to have the disassembly explained. My one year old 5ah battery had intermittent faults where the red light would come on after around 10 minutes of mowing. Letting it cool for 5 minutes gave me another 10 minutes of mowing. Turned out to be a scorched contact on the plus terminal inside the battery . Upon disassembly I noticed that the plastic around this contact had some carbon soot, making the diagnosis a bit more obvious. Anyway, cleaning up the contacts (as Pete says below) did the trick.
Thanks for sharing. Several people have mentioned connection issues. I have had no connection issues on any of mine as of this time. This is good information.
So when you say "a scorched contact" do you mean a cold solder point or what? This is what my new battery did after 3 uses. And reading the comments on multiple sites, most say the customer service with EGO is very poor.
@@coloradostrong Here is an update the battery problem that I had with the scorched contact (this is one of the external contacts that connects the battery to the mower that must have heated up, pitted and left black soot on the contact's surface). I still have the defective battery but I finally found a way to contact the UK division of EGO directly and they replaced my 5ah battery with a 7.5ah battery under warranty at no charge. The mower has been running fine ever since. If you registered your battery with EGO when you bought it they maybe your best course of action is to pursue a warranty claim?
@@invisi-bill Thank you for the reply. Many users of this product complain of the battery going to a red light status, like it is overheating. Upon a closer examination of my barely used battery (7.5 amp), I notice there is grease on all of the contacts. Grease and dirt make terrible electrical connections. This is factory grease. It was on all of my chargers, coming from the battery terminals, and my other batteries had the same problem also. I took every battery apart, and used brake cleaner and carb cleaner spray to remove the nasty grease that was black from the dirt and debris. I took care to not let it run onto the surface mount electronics. I can say with confidence that the contacts being entirely crud filled with some thick factory grease was the problem, causing the equipment to turn off, as though the battery was overheated. Every piece of equipment I own from EGO had grease on it.
Thanks internet buddy. Had the same issue. Got my 7.5 ah battery back to new.
Mine reads 57 volts and fully charged but flashes orange and dies when I use it in a tool for a second. Any idea why?
It's possible it was like the one in my repair video of a EGO pack blinking orange. I narrowed this one down to a loose connection causing the orange LED blinking thinking it was a temperature fault. Funny thing is many viewers commented on that video that they would drop the pack they had or smack it and it would start back working 🤣. At least this does verify loose connections being an issue with many of these.
th-cam.com/video/6WBsDQ4cMpA/w-d-xo.html
Do you do repairs on other peoples batteries, o do you just do it for video purposes? I have 2.5 and a 5ah that are bad and would like to try to get them repaired.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
The 5 amp battery seems to have been discontinued here in Australia. I wonder if they have a reliability issue? I've been looking at one as a replacement for my 2.5 amp unit.
That's interesting. I have not heard of any issues on that level.
Hmmm, I'm betting a PTC resettable fuse could work just as well as a permanent fix. The math has me a bit stumped, though. If a 5Ahr battery drives a mower 1 hour, what's the need for a 30 amp fuse? Maybe a 7.5 amp could handle it just fine. I'm just wondering where the thought for a 30 amp fuse came from especially in light of the fact you mention that you would have preferred a 40 amp fuse.
The 5Ah pack will run the mower roughly 30 mins for me depending on load. The load is what is stumping you here. The load changes or varies depending on the thickness and length of grass, cut height the speed that you push it, type of blade used, bagging or mulching etc. We can easily run the mower at around 8-10 amps while lightly cutting and going slow and I can easily push the mower in thick grass and pull over 25 amps. We also have a 40A fuse in the mower because they have to account for heavy inrush current in some situations.
Same as Kärcher battery ? same shape and same voltage , SAME as Kärcher
Could you tell me if I have a generic 5 Ah battery and a 10 Ah battery, I measured the weight, and the 5 Ah is heavier than a 10. Is it possible the 10 Ah is not 10Ah ?
It is very possible with generic. The only way to know for sure is to test the capacity.
Well I'll be Dog Gone.
Hey do you have links for just the Cells? For the BMS?
These are Li-ion 18650 2500mah and every EGO pack I have ever worked on has the 18650 physical size cells.
I do not know what is in the newer 10ah pack though.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 6 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. I am not aware of anywhere we can buy them with the sleeve at this time. The BMS I have tried many ways to get my hands on and the aftermarket boards may be an option, but I have not had any luck with any manufacturer willing to sell the BMS board by itself. There are a few viewers interested in getting some made. It takes a lot of effort and I have not seen any available yet. One viewer posted in our Facebook group "On the Bench" that he was interested in getting some boards made and has shared the board layout with us in the group. Hopefully some BMS boards will be available soon.
facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/permalink/1704252063417519/?mibextid=Nif5oz
I have the exact same battery and I have 4 acres on my 21 inch ego push mower has been amazing but after about two years I’m running it hard. The battery started having trouble charging and then when it was show it was fully charged I’d put it in the mower and could run maybe 10 minutes and then it was giving me the flashing red. And I love the video except I’m new to taking these batteries apart. My dad showed me how to do a lot but one thing I don’t know is what to set the meter on when testing the battery. so I went to test mine. I’m thinking it’s on the right setting but it’s sparked pretty good when I unscrewed that top piece for the fuses. There was a piece of grass dry dead grass that was in there. Please let me know what setting the meter should be onwhen testing different things on the battery. And since it’s parked like that, do you think that I fried it?
I am not sure exactly what you mean by "unscrewed the top piece for the fuse"? If you are talking about taking the connector block off the fuse then where did it spark? What arced to what? I always have my meter on Volts DC while testing the battery voltage. That is typically indicated with a V followed by a solid line with a dashed line parallel with it. Some meters may simply show it as VDC. You will see my meter in that mode testing voltage in many videos.
I’ve got a 2.5AH that also has a blown fuse on it. What would be the best way to calculate the size I would need? I saw how you explained it at 6:04 but I can’t seem to find the formula anywhere.
It's really hard to calculate. I think the thickness for a calculated current rating, but as far as a fuse, it is hard to determine. I am in no way an Electronic Engineer (nor desire to do that, honestly), but the trace is a poor excuse for a fuse for that reason. I have had some arguments over this, but my opinion after doing some of these is go with a 40A rated fuse. The mower has a 40A fuse. Some controllers have 30A fuses and some 40A fuses. I personally would rather a fuse blow in the mower or tool than inside of the pack. Some say 30A for the 1P packs like the 2.5Ah. I think that will work with most tools. The argument is that the 2500mah cells are usually 20A or 25A rated cells. While True they can produce over 100A in short bursts. So I would at minimum go 30A and I would go at minimum 40A on the 5Ah or 2P style packs. The fuse is mainly to protect inncase of short curcuit and is not designed as an easily replacable item of course. You can also find some comments on this subject on the TTS Facebook group called On The Bench. Best of luck to ya!
My 2yr old 7.5 are the old style and i just saw for first time that when i was bluetoothed to it checking levels 2 of my four on this nemisis were showing yellow instead of the usual green and read 30 and 34% each and when put in charger they do not and when i reset them by holding down the button it did nuthin. Any ideas? They is expensive.
Hi,
Usually the yellow is showing a temperature issue. These have a NTC thermistor per pack half and also a middle temperature monitoring board. I have one video about the pack having a bad connection and causing the blinking orange or yellow Light. It may not always be the case, but is the most common I have seen. I have shown in video a loose connection found in the middle board of one of my 5Ah packs. Some versions of these packs had soldered connections and some do not. They simply are slide on connectors. Many viewers mentioned they simply could drop theirs and it would sometimes work again. Hints the loose connection. No, they are not cheap. Best of luck to ya!
th-cam.com/video/6WBsDQ4cMpA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CeZBEzt-0HvNlPNN
I have some batteries that don't work. They show green.
More recently I have a 10 Amp battery that displays green then goes solid red. It's not overheated. I'm curious how to repair it.
I have seen a couple do this and have not found the culprit yet. I have fixed one similar that had an issue with the DC-DC converter part of the board. The small transformer or coils in about the center on the board was bad. One of the 3 coils in it was open. Other than that I have not found the issue. I chalked it up to a possible microcontroller itself being faulty since all components tested ok.
I just pulled one apart my 5.0ah to find it didn't have that fuse. Literally nothing in that area or anywhere else on the board. I can't get the light to do anything. Do I have a bad bms? Is there any way to fix that? Would appreciate any guidance or help.
I have never seen one not have a fuse. I have even had viewers send photos on the Facebook page and yes it is there. The 1st and 2nd gen has the trace fuse on the connector board as mentioned and shown. On the 3rd gen some of them have a black SMD style fuse on the connector board.
Great video. Do you know where to purchase a replacement BMS for EGO 56 Volt 5Ah battery pack?
I don't. I have tried to get some suppliers and was even going to look into getting some custom made. Several viewers mentioned they were working on it already and I don't want to get so many out there that they can't sell and someone gets stuck with them and the costs of buying a bulk order of them. I am waiting to see if others come through. One viewer has even shared the file on my FB group of the board connection points. It's a very handy layout. He's got a really good start on it.
Thanks for your kind comment!
My Ego batter thermisters measure 14k and 13k at the ports but when I measure resistance at negative and T port I get nothing. Any ideas why?
These actually are different from Gen1,2 and Gen3. The Gen1 and 2 had a SMD thermistor on the board to the right of the bottom connector on the BMS board. The Gen 3 boards (ones with the segmented fuel gauge) have the thermistor in a different spot and it goes through a transistor now (if I followed the board traces correctly). These may not measure the same as I talked about in the "What is the T-terminal?" video. That was only for the 1st and 2nd Gen boards. I was surprised that they changed that part of the circuit, but they apparently did.
I’m sorry if this is in your links but I couldn’t seem to find it, but what are the silicone pieces you used to cover the new fuse? Any info is greatly appreciated.
I used several layers of Kapton tape as an extra layer over the fuse.
amzn.to/44O1fqW
good job, ain't it great when you can make broken things work again! Is advice about the danger of accidentally shorting these batteries a good idea?
It is a great feeling indeed. I am not sure if you are referring to shorting the packs together like when people boost packs (Not accidential though) or the cells themselves individually shorted together. Either way, I have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that I have pointed to many times to help with frequently asked questions and I also have many videos mentioning how it's not a good idea to short packs to each other also. Thanks for your kind comment!
I'm needing to find a replacement for the 3mm fuse link... I've got a battery that's only been discharged twice.
The closest I have found is the fuse strips like below as an example. I have cut them to size and soldered them in. It will take a lot of heat to desolder and solder these since it's a lot of mass to get up to temperature.
amzn.to/3EhXuQC
Mines broke think you could fix it for free if I sent it to you so you could make a video on it rather than me just getting an easy warranty? I just love a challenge thought you might as well after hearing this.. 11:48
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Can you fix my 2.0 Ah EGO.
Disabled retired firefighter price 🤔
Enjoy the videos
Thanks for your kind comment and thank you for your service. That is tugging on me hard, I was a volunteer FF for many years in the small town I grew up in and lived most of my life. Unfortunately I can't repair others at this time.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours! Thanks and God Bless!
Wow! Just Wow man. What a video! Deep bow for your time and effort! Keep doing the good work.
Thanks for your kind comment!
I'b been wanting to take a 5.0 battery apart for a long long time but I'm been too busy impregnating the gators. The 5.0 is smaller than a 7.5 and bigger than a 2.5 blah blah blah.
🤷♂️
Do you repair the batteries? I have a 5.0 that shows 56.6 volts but the led flashes orange
Hi,
When I get time I try to do the videos to try to help others. I could not attempt all the repair request if I tried. Usually the flashing orange is a temperature issue. If the pack is not really overheating, it could be a NTC thermistor or the boards in between the pack halves reading bad or bad connection. Hope it helps.
Where is the fuse on the newer gen battery? I don't see it on mine? BA2800T model
I have not worked on the newer packs to say for sure. The old ones were on the connector board. The newer Gen packs are not there?
@@ThriftyToolShed it's designed slightly different. I don't see one on mine. Maybe because of DIY fixers like yourself... They are trying to make it more difficult to replace? Not sure... If you find out any info I'm definitely curious.
@@BTCKYLE haha, making it a trace on the board was hard enough...🤣
@@ThriftyToolShed haha, but. Very clever method! Very cool idea 💡👍
Hello - I have two batteries like that and they will not charge. I do not have the equipment or knowledge to repair it. Where can I sent them? Thank you
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you -
is it worth more going in the Ego ecosystem then Snowjoe/Sunjoe, Ego battery seems more reliable then snow joe for winter use ? , i'm planning buying a snow blower and leaf blower
I really don't know about snowjoe/sunjoe personally. I live in Georgia so I have little experience with heavy snow. I have heard great things about the EGO snowblowers and I absolutely love the EGO leaf blowers as well as the string trimmer, edger, hedge trimmers etc. I have had good luck with my packs and the few that have had issues I have been able to repair and use the videos to try to help others with the same issues!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks !! i think i'll go for Ego
I wish there was a service that could repair/rebuild our batteries. I have a 5.0 that doesn't hold a charge long anymore.
Thank you for posting this. I have two dead batteries I picked up free in the recycle bin at work and will see if they failed in the same way.
Did they fail in the same way?
@@Tonisuperfly Nope. They both just had a weak cell presumably from sitting for years un-used? I was able to charge them on my bench and the batteries work ok now. They're not the strongest of the batteries I have but are useable.
Instead of opening the pack and finding the cell that is low could I just drain the entire pack to 0 volts and put it in the charger then?
Well you don't ever want to let any cell get to zero. Actually it's not ok to go below 2.7V really. If a cell goes below 2.5V or so usually damage will occur and usually at a minimum the capacity of that cell will be diminished. You will sometimes get lucky but usually the cell is severely damaged. I also have a video a little more informative called " Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that may help some.
Wonderful job on the video! I have this same exact problem but with the never version of the 5.0Ah. I'm getting a new one sent since it's only a month old but I'd like to try and fix the broken one. What would you suggest as a more 'permanent' fix? A 30amp strip link fuse? The blown PCB fuse on the newer battery looks slightly different. Wish I could post a picture. The surge also took out the Powerhead for the multi-tool. I'm going to take that apart next to see if there is something replaceable inside.
This link is similar to the ones I used on mine. They are about the same price if you buy 1 or 10! I had to trim them up a bend them and once soldered in I have a 40A link.
www.ebay.com/itm/Strip-Link-Fuse-Auto-30A-40A-50A-60A-80A-100A-/265083948597?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@ThriftyToolShed interestingly, the power head that also blew at the same time has a 50A ceramic fuse that I’m trying to find now and hopefully replace. You’ve given me confidence! Back to the battery, the gap left by the blown fuse is only a few millimeters. Looks like a copper strip with a small gap in between. How would you approach that? It looks slightly different from above. Maybe I didn’t fry the entire piece of metal.
I have a video on the 14" chainsaw controller repair. It blew the 30A fuse on the small controller in it and it blew due to shorted transistors in the controller. I got 2 of these type controllers working out of 5 I worked on. Sometimes it's more issues than Mosfets and fuse. The power head is different, I wish you luck. The battery seems different than mine. Mine simply had a pcb type fuse and the trace had blown away.
I have used the link from 50a fuse, just cracked the case and retrieved the fusible metal and soldered it in.
Do you have the EGO solar generator and any thoughts on it ? I heard from the EGO rep that they are going to be adding a solar panel option to it.
I do not, sorry!
I bought a 2.5 ah battery off of Ebay. The green light does not come on when I press the button. and when I try to charge it the charger just pulses like it is trying to charge starting then stopping over and over. What do you suspect I should look for when I take it apart to troubleshoot? If i do have to replace some cells where do you recommend I buy them?I assume they are 18650's 2.5AH. I have seen you replace cells in packs before but did not notice you ever stating what kind of cells these are or where to get a replacement.
Yes, that is common when the pack has depleted to a very low voltage level. So the charger is trying to output, pulse or boost up the pack it seems, but of course if not bumped up after a brief try it will shut down and give a pack error. I have a video that shows using a Drok converter, I carefully boosted the pack to at least see if I had one or sometimes more than one cell causing the issue. You can also very carefully go across each individual cell with a power supply set at like 4.0v and current limited to 1.0A and see if the cells one by one will rise up make sure you current limited always! If the pack is very low, it is possible most of the cells have pulled too low to fully recover. Usually when the packs pulls down like this it is because the Q12 is shorted on the BMS as mentioned in the previous repair video. Best of luck, I love seeing things come to life that would normally be thrown out or at best recycled!
I did mention that my cells came from buying several bad packs over a year or two period and some had bad BMS and I repaired and some had one or more bad cells, so I went through and tested each cell very well charge and discharge cycle and some of the good cells are my exact match spare cells.So I had spare cells and spare battery housing and spare BMS by parting out one! Since then several viewers have mentioned the brand and type of cells in the comments. Sanyo UR18650NSX is one mentioned by (Jonathan Ridder). (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR 18650.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the reply and advice.
Any recommendation to keeping a battery pack healthy? What makes them fail? I hear about overheating. Is this just something that can randomly happen? thanks.
For most packs, some protection is built in. So overtemperature is usually picked up by packs NTC Thermistor and cuts the pack/tool before really bad damage. The Battery Management System also stops the pack from over charge and under discharge. With that said, most packs built in a tight (brick) configuration have overtemp issues at least over time if the are run hard.
Even if the pack does shut down the pack can still be adversely affected (in my opinion). I really look for the pack designed with great air flow. (Such as EGO) Another minor detail is that li-ion cells like to be stored below 30% if stored for long period of time. Li-ion packs are so much better than the older Ni-cd packs, but they can still give issues for sure, for one thing we are working through the learning and adaptation of the BMS with alot of manufacture's having learning curves and issues. Exciting to see how much better they are getting and how much longer they are lasting. Hope your packs hold up, we do what we can!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for info
Hi, I very much appreciate your videos. I have a couple nonfunctional batteries, they are fully charged, the light is solid green when you push the power button but then flashes yellow before cutting off. When you try to use them they only work for a second then cut off and flashes yellow. What's your thoughts on this issue, any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
I am replying from memory here, but I believe the orange flash is either a overload situation or a temperature issue. I assume you have already checked for mechanical bind etc. on your mower or tool of choice? Maybe you have even verified other batteries will run the tool just fine? If that is the case, it seems as the pack could have a issue with one of the thermistors (ntc) the pack has 3 of them that I know of. One of the ntcs is on the BMS board next to the battery monitor connector and each of the bank of 7 cells in each pack half has a ntc on them for temp monitoring. I think you can test the ntc at the BMS by way of the T terminal on the pack. Compare ohm reading with known good pack with the faulty one. I can give you more details when I get home but I am thinking at ambient of around 70F maybe negative terminal to T terminal measures around 10K-14K? I would check a known good pack to double check! Best of luck!
Thanks for your comment!
Great video! Thank you for much for all the upload. I have similar issue. My battery measured about 10 ohms from negative to T. The negative to positive is reading about 46V. I need to look at other of your videos on replacing the thermistor. What do you think is going on with my battery? I’m not sure if the original poster has this issue solved.
Thanks for your kind comment. T to - Should around 10K ohms at room temp. And for example 90⁰F outdoors it might read 6K and 50⁰F it might read 15K etc. It should not read 10 ohms. It is more NTC thermistors inside of the pack as well that feedback to board for each half and also temp. Monitoring board in the middle of the 2 pack halves for larger packs. Sometimes a bad connection on those boards can cause an issue. I think the 1st gen packs had push on connectors to the boards and balancing connections.
@@ThriftyToolShed I’ve measured the negative to T again and it is 10k. I’ve read the measurements incorrectly with the analog meter.
I’ve also measured each individual cell and all cells measured about 3.3v each. I guess that’s still ok. Do you think it’s still one of the thermistor? BTW, I could no find a video of your that showed the thermistor troubleshooting and replacement. Would you please point me to that?
Thanks again.
Yes, your cells seem good then. Your NTC on the BMS board checks well. It is still one NTC on both halves of the pack on the bottom side and those feed back to the BMS top connectors usually with small black wires as I mentioned a little bit on my very first BMS repair video.th-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/w-d-xo.html
It is also temp. Monitoring boards in the center of the pack on 5ah packs and above that I mentioned in the 5ah pack blinking orange repair. th-cam.com/video/6WBsDQ4cMpA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for great video.. I have a 7.5 that it doesn't hold the charge it runs for about a minute and green power button goes red. Any ideas?
I would check the cell voltages to make sure all cell clusters are good using the TP's B1-B14. It could be one of the sets of cells pulling down low. I have had issues with packs glowing green when pressed and then blinking red. I have not found what on the BMS causes that yet. I have worked on 2 like it and come up short. It seems the microcontroller sees that the pack is good and then it thinks a cell has issues. Swapping the BMS with a known good BMS fixes the issue so it's not the cells, thermistor or wiring. I have tested and troubleshoot all I know, all the cell monitoring circuit seems ok. Still the controller doesn't like it? Hopefully yours is not the same as those 2. I am editing a video now showing one kinda similar, it shows green but the charger is showing red when trying to charge. It is a cell issue with this one. It maybe a similar issue. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I got a new 7.5ah G3 and after 10 charges now it does this ! Fully charge 5 green lights. I us it on a tool now it’s down to 3 green lights no problem. Bring the battery inside the house and 2-3 hours later when I click the see the charge left it start with 2 green lights and after turn all 5 red ! I can’t use it or charge it until it goes back to normal green. It can take a few hours or a day but after that I can charge it again and use it. But it will do it again every 2-3 usage.
Do you think it’s the BMS the trouble and I just need to swap it ?
Thanks
EGO guy, first of all I'm sure you already know this but the new battery should be replaced by EGO no issues. Usually they allow you to keep the old one and I am assuming that is where you are now, right. Got a replacement and now trying to fix the bad one? Anyway, I do not have a newer style (G3) to know for sure. I would agree by what you describe that it is a BMS issue. That is an issue I have not come accross yet for sure. Interesting, and I am sure frustrating. I would say if you have a spare BMS, then I would swap it out. I would not hesitate to clean the connectors and double check that all pins and connections are corrosion free and all look shiny. I have had issues with the older packs with this and of course it would blink Red but not the same gauge as the G3. So I am wondering if this to could be a corrosion or bad connection issue?
@@ThriftyToolShed it’s over 1 moth I’m waiting for a replacement yes :( I will probably try what you said ! Thanks for the help I love your videos
Thanks for your comment!
Best of luck to ya!