I'm an electrician, I would not have used the old toaster wiring/cord as the plug is a 3- wire and is not being used and this would make someone think this item is grounded when it is not. You also didn't mention about attaching the correct neutral wire together (these are usually identified by a raised ridge or ridges on the outer insulation of the cord, an appliance cord may not have this identifier, so be carful) so that you don't have a reversed polarity when you plug in your cool lamp. Reverse polarity can be very dangerous. If your lamp has that condition and you plug in, the outer skin " the i.e. pipe" can be energized and present a shock hazard. Your ideas and figuring it out is/are supper cool, keep up the great work..
It would be cool if the valve was actually a dimmer so if you keep rotating the light keeps becoming brighter and brighter. I think I'll try it myself.
Use the green wire (Grounding Wire) and terminate it to the pipe or somewhere internally so that the fixture is grounded. IF the hot wire was to go to the pipe and it wasn't grounded the pipe would become energized and in the right conditions touching the fixture you would get shocked. It would keep from some one getting hurt for sure and it was already available. I would also use a white wire to make sure that polarity was being maintained to the socket. Other than that, it was a nice build, I think I may make one myself. Best Regards!
Thanks for the tutorial. Looks good - I have been wanting to do something like this for a while now. I also like the style lamp you chose to complete the look - that 'old fashioned' filament in a clear envelope just adds to the overall effect. Nice work! I also would not have thought of the clear coat, but see that is is a good idea to help prevent rust. I do have a couple of electrical safety suggestions. First, since you used a cord with a ground (which is actually a good idea because of the metal pipe), crimp an appropriate sized ring terminal on the ground (green, green/yellow, or bare copper) wire and make sure to capture it with one of the mounting screws to electrically connect the ground to the pipe assembly. Another safety tip - lampholders have a hot and neutral - in the US, black is hot and white is neutral. The neutral connects to the shell of the lamp (the threaded part) while the hot is the center contact. Make sure you connect the neutral on the lampholder to the neutral from your cord set. This is to minimize the chance of a shock should someone touch the outside of the lamp when it is partially screwed into the lamp holder. The switch should switch the hot wire between the cord set and the lampholder. To tell hot from neutral, look at the cordset and see if the wires are colored. If so, white is neutral and black is hot (in the US). If you have a cordset from Europe, the colors are typically brown for hot and blue for neutral. If you do not have a grounding cordset, the wire connected to the larger blade on the plug is the neutral. If your cordset is not polarized (I.E. both blades are the same width) and is not a 3 prong grounded cordset, I would get one that is grounded or polarized for the sake of safety. For a grounded cordset that does not have colored wires, if you look at the end of the cordset with the blades facing you and the ground (round) pin at the bottom, the neutral will be the blade to the right of ground. For your crimp terminals, the ones with the integrated heatshrink (like you used) are awesome. Sometimes you will see them mentioned as auto or marine use, because they seal when heated and shrunk. The terminals also are different sizes - make sure you match the wire size to the terminal size. These are generally color coded as well - what you commonly find are red, blue, and yellow. Each is suitable for a range of sizes. For most lamp wiring, the blue connectors (usually for 14 - 16 gauge wire) are the ones you want. Sometimes you might encounter 18 gauge wire, in which case red is your color (red is typically 18 - 22 gauge. Yellow is 10 - 12). Make sure the proper crimp slot on your crimper are used as well - depending on the specific tool, they may have marking for insulated and non-insulated connectors. Make sure the size and type match the slots used in your crimp tool to ensure a secure crimp.
Just a heads up. If you use a 1/2 inch gate valve it will actually screw in to a 1 inch to 3/4 reducer hex. Use a little red lock tight and it will not come off.
It's not just a little tricky, it's hard as hell to get the bonnet off. *giggles I guess* Wish I'd known how hard it was before purchasing the gate valve.
Thanks for the vid. But I think the 8” nipple is ¾ not 1” if I follow your build pic. You reduce to ¾ then increase back to an inch at the light fixture I believe. Your parts list says 1”x8” nipple.
Nice Design on the Switch I like your idea better than mine, but I was using 3/4 Copper and had a lot less room to work with. I use a miniature Toggle Switch and drilled a hole in the Gate to operate the Toggle switch.
If that long straight pipe nipple is black steel, make sure you degrease it with acetone first. They're all coated with a thin layer of oil so that they don't flash rust at the store. Definitely do not paint over an oily surface. It WILL fail. Source: I have a shop where I paint cars and motorcycles.
WOW....I have seen several videos and the end product is ok....what you have made here is right up my alley and takes this to an artistic level that I love and is always what I am looking for. Ways I can infuse my style into a current trend. Great job...and you sneaky one you did not tell us how you made the bulbs appear to be lit from both ends....but I think I figured it out...anyway great work..more...
Thanks for the tutorial. I like your honesty showing that mistakes happen and is ok; we just need correct them and continue until project is complete. Thanks again!
Hi, I love the video. Can you please give me advice on how you separate the faucet handle from the valve? Did you use a vice clamp or plumber's wrench? I bought the gate valve you recommended and I'm starting to strip the outside and I don't want to screw it up anymore. Thank you!
@@sofiedimarco5851 Yeah, I got really lucky. I went to my local hardware store and they did it for me. Essentially, they clamped it down and then used two wrenches and some old man strength to get it unscrewed. I hope this helps you!
I admit i'm nervous to do this. Just because I doubt my design will sell. I'll go through all this trouble and money and no one will buy it. But I have some neat ideas I think. Do you sell these?
Youve got a lot to learn, long journey still left but nice work btw, ive got a long journey too. Never stop learning shop skills. Cheers, also, use the mutlimeter continuity test to check your wiring works, dont need to plug anything in, or set it to resistance ohms and make sure it reads low resistance, as an open circuit or faulty connectuion has high resistance.
Do you think we could pack the pipe where the switch is with insulation to keep it from moving? Instead of using the welding glue? or both for extra measure.
Watching your video with headphones is so weird. I hear the music on both sides, your speaking voice just on my left and your recorded voice online on my right side 😄
I wondered how I could make a water valve switch, thank you so much, you just helped me solve the problem. The first one I make will be because of you.. again thank you for the video, just awesome 👌 👏
i know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost my password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Jamie Tristan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
You’ve probably found out the answer already but if someone comes along looking for it…like I did. Take the positive wire from the light socket and attach it to one of the wires on the rotary switch. Then the positive wire from the electrical cord connects to the other wire on the switch. Then connect the negative wire from the light socket to the negative wire on the power cord.
you never switch a neural (white) always hot (black). keep the white neutral on the white wire of light sockets. this will make the screw shell cold & the center contact hot. i was an elecrician for 28 years. never dawned on me to build lamps from plumbing pipe!
So take a normal charging cord and slip it up through the slot I routered into the board from the bottom. Place a bead of silicon in the hole to hold the cord in place. I didn't show this very well in the video sorry !!
Also use a thicker board then I did the end of the charging cord doesn't like to bend or put feet on it like I did .. Let me know if you need anymore help !!
Well what about the green ground wire? If the lamp has a ground fault that could energize the metal pipes. That could cause problems such as fire or electrocution.
Here's a great idea. When you are talking, record what you're saying and drop the music so we know whats happening. Great project if I knew what you were doing.
Great job! Love to see a woman using power tools and being that hands on creative. When you grabbed that router and started, girl I was in love,until your boyfriend at the end. Keep up the great work!!!!!
Hey! Really nice build, i loved it! There are a few things that you could improve: - start and ending voice volume are really low and the music really high - makes it really hard to hear you. - lower the music volume overall - when you lower the camera at 2:40 you also lowered the mic and the sound of your voice was coming from above and it was also lower - when you move the camera back ~ 2:57 the volume bounces back and it creates a bad audio experience. I hope you don't mind me pointing these things out but I like the video and I would love to see your channel grow.
![[DRIP] ‘Woke Up In Tokyo (RUKA & ASA)’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QN44lcR_VkI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for keeping in the mistakes. It's a nice reminder that I'm not the only one who makes them.
I'm an electrician, I would not have used the old toaster wiring/cord as the plug is a 3- wire and is not being used and this would make someone think this item is grounded when it is not. You also didn't mention about attaching the correct neutral wire together (these are usually identified by a raised ridge or ridges on the outer insulation of the cord, an appliance cord may not have this identifier, so be carful) so that you don't have a reversed polarity when you plug in your cool lamp. Reverse polarity can be very dangerous. If your lamp has that condition and you plug in, the outer skin " the i.e. pipe" can be energized and present a shock hazard. Your ideas and figuring it out is/are supper cool, keep up the great work..
It would be cool if the valve was actually a dimmer so if you keep rotating the light keeps becoming brighter and brighter. I think I'll try it myself.
Use the green wire (Grounding Wire) and terminate it to the pipe or somewhere internally so that the fixture is grounded. IF the hot wire was to go to the pipe and it wasn't grounded the pipe would become energized and in the right conditions touching the fixture you would get shocked. It would keep from some one getting hurt for sure and it was already available. I would also use a white wire to make sure that polarity was being maintained to the socket. Other than that, it was a nice build, I think I may make one myself. Best Regards!
Thanks for the tutorial. Looks good - I have been wanting to do something like this for a while now. I also like the style lamp you chose to complete the look - that 'old fashioned' filament in a clear envelope just adds to the overall effect. Nice work! I also would not have thought of the clear coat, but see that is is a good idea to help prevent rust.
I do have a couple of electrical safety suggestions. First, since you used a cord with a ground (which is actually a good idea because of the metal pipe), crimp an appropriate sized ring terminal on the ground (green, green/yellow, or bare copper) wire and make sure to capture it with one of the mounting screws to electrically connect the ground to the pipe assembly. Another safety tip - lampholders have a hot and neutral - in the US, black is hot and white is neutral. The neutral connects to the shell of the lamp (the threaded part) while the hot is the center contact. Make sure you connect the neutral on the lampholder to the neutral from your cord set. This is to minimize the chance of a shock should someone touch the outside of the lamp when it is partially screwed into the lamp holder. The switch should switch the hot wire between the cord set and the lampholder. To tell hot from neutral, look at the cordset and see if the wires are colored. If so, white is neutral and black is hot (in the US). If you have a cordset from Europe, the colors are typically brown for hot and blue for neutral. If you do not have a grounding cordset, the wire connected to the larger blade on the plug is the neutral. If your cordset is not polarized (I.E. both blades are the same width) and is not a 3 prong grounded cordset, I would get one that is grounded or polarized for the sake of safety. For a grounded cordset that does not have colored wires, if you look at the end of the cordset with the blades facing you and the ground (round) pin at the bottom, the neutral will be the blade to the right of ground. For your crimp terminals, the ones with the integrated heatshrink (like you used) are awesome. Sometimes you will see them mentioned as auto or marine use, because they seal when heated and shrunk. The terminals also are different sizes - make sure you match the wire size to the terminal size. These are generally color coded as well - what you commonly find are red, blue, and yellow. Each is suitable for a range of sizes. For most lamp wiring, the blue connectors (usually for 14 - 16 gauge wire) are the ones you want. Sometimes you might encounter 18 gauge wire, in which case red is your color (red is typically 18 - 22 gauge. Yellow is 10 - 12). Make sure the proper crimp slot on your crimper are used as well - depending on the specific tool, they may have marking for insulated and non-insulated connectors. Make sure the size and type match the slots used in your crimp tool to ensure a secure crimp.
Thanks for your additional safety tips Robert.
The wiring for my lamp is going to be the most difficult aspect of my project, your video made it easier for me!
Wiring the pipe lamp can be a challenge but you got this !! If you have any problems I'm here to help
Just a heads up. If you use a 1/2 inch gate valve it will actually screw in to a 1 inch to 3/4 reducer hex. Use a little red lock tight and it will not come off.
I priced out all the parts needed to make the lamp here in Canada and it came out to $150. Is that crazy or decent for a lamp like this?
Amazing design and clever idea with the power switch!! But grounding is absolutely necessary when you use metal tubes ... otherwise it can cause ☠
It's not just a little tricky, it's hard as hell to get the bonnet off. *giggles I guess* Wish I'd known how hard it was before purchasing the gate valve.
Thank you for talking and describing what you are doing on your video!! And thanks for the parts list also.
No worries, glad to help! Did you end up making the pipe lamp ?
I made a lamp by putting a pressure gauge and adding a fire sprinkler, it's great.
I’m looking for ideas for a steampunk/industrial style bankers lamp I can put on my upright piano. LOVE the valve switch!
Making the switch is where I was stuck. It's a real take-away for me... Thanks for the video
Glad it helped, I really enjoyed figuring the light switch out.
How does this not have more views! Great idea and awesome instructions.
hehe thanks friend!!
finally finished for both ac and dc connections... ty tysmfs :)
Thanks for the vid. But I think the 8” nipple is ¾ not 1” if I follow your build pic. You reduce to ¾ then increase back to an inch at the light fixture I believe. Your parts list says 1”x8” nipple.
Nice Design on the Switch I like your idea better than mine, but I was using 3/4 Copper and had a lot less room to work with. I use a miniature Toggle Switch and drilled a hole in the Gate to operate the Toggle switch.
Omg 😍😍😍😍😍 beautiful…. Now i have new idea to do something unique. Thankyou beautiful 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
hi Heidi....bellissimo progetto, brava!
Beautiful craft and presenter.
If that long straight pipe nipple is black steel, make sure you degrease it with acetone first. They're all coated with a thin layer of oil so that they don't flash rust at the store. Definitely do not paint over an oily surface. It WILL fail.
Source: I have a shop where I paint cars and motorcycles.
You did a Badass Job Girl !!!!!
Ahhh thanks Chris we still use these pipe lamps on our night table !
I'd say you made pretty good use of an otherwise flimsy situation. Nice shelves. 3:58
WOW....I have seen several videos and the end product is ok....what you have made here is right up my alley and takes this to an artistic level that I love and is always what I am looking for. Ways I can infuse my style into a current trend. Great job...and you sneaky one you did not tell us how you made the bulbs appear to be lit from both ends....but I think I figured it out...anyway great work..more...
That was cool!!! Good job! Thanks for the close ups of the build process!
Thanks for the great video. Are you able to share the link or product number for the dimmer switch you used?
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing 👍
My right ear love this video...
классная настольная лампа с зарядкой для Hand-Telefon
Can you make a steampunk table lamp with 2 bulbs...one facing up the other down
Thanks for the tutorial. I like your honesty showing that mistakes happen and is ok; we just need correct them and continue until project is complete. Thanks again!
yes! sometimes it can be discouraging, but once you realise that its all just a part of the passion, its not so bad!
Question: could you tell us the pipe parts you used? Especially the part where you added the light socket. thanks
Was wondering the same
Hi, where can i see more details of the pipe & valve diameter? able to show the link to get those?
Im not shure about the video but what i find works best for wires and looks it 3/4 inch threaded pipe
Hi, I love the video. Can you please give me advice on how you separate the faucet handle from the valve? Did you use a vice clamp or plumber's wrench? I bought the gate valve you recommended and I'm starting to strip the outside and I don't want to screw it up anymore. Thank you!
Did you end up figuring it out? I’m trying to do the same and I’m having the same issues as you!
@@sofiedimarco5851 Yeah, I got really lucky. I went to my local hardware store and they did it for me. Essentially, they clamped it down and then used two wrenches and some old man strength to get it unscrewed. I hope this helps you!
I admit i'm nervous to do this. Just because I doubt my design will sell. I'll go through all this trouble and money and no one will buy it. But I have some neat ideas I think. Do you sell these?
Youve got a lot to learn, long journey still left but nice work btw, ive got a long journey too. Never stop learning shop skills. Cheers, also, use the mutlimeter continuity test to check your wiring works, dont need to plug anything in, or set it to resistance ohms and make sure it reads low resistance, as an open circuit or faulty connectuion has high resistance.
What was the spray you use for the pipes and for the wood to get brilliant?
Consider soldering your connections first before using heat shrink. Great video!
Do you think we could pack the pipe where the switch is with insulation to keep it from moving? Instead of using the welding glue? or both for extra measure.
How do you cut and thread all your piping to size?
I have a question I'm doing a steampunk lamp with the same switch set up but I have 2 bulbs and it keeps shorting out how do you do 2 bulbs?
Watching your video with headphones is so weird. I hear the music on both sides, your speaking voice just on my left and your recorded voice online on my right side 😄
I thought the voice was all on the same channel but it switches channels. So weird.
Nice! Hope you make a steampunk look desktop computer😀
This vid is wonderful, but, where do you get bulb holders that screw into the pile?? Bill
I wondered how I could make a water valve switch, thank you so much, you just helped me solve the problem. The first one I make will be because of you.. again thank you for the video, just awesome 👌 👏
have you tried to make a gooseneck lamp using teacups? i'd like to see a tutorial on that
Nice lamp! I hope that plastic tube holds up between the knob and the switch ;--)
Gracias mil por el tutorial, te quedo fantastica!!! Ya me suscribi.
Looks great keep it up!
I LOVE THIS! Super awesome Sunday project! Ha ha! I can’t wait to try this with the love of my life! ♥️💋 Thanks for sharing doll!
i know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost my password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Jimmy Johnny instablaster ;)
@Jamie Tristan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jamie Tristan It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Jimmy Johnny Happy to help :D
Hi thanks for sharing. Can you please tell me which wire go to the main power and which go to the rotator switch (positive or negative)??? Thank you!
You’ve probably found out the answer already but if someone comes along looking for it…like I did.
Take the positive wire from the light socket and attach it to one of the wires on the rotary switch. Then the positive wire from the electrical cord connects to the other wire on the switch. Then connect the negative wire from the light socket to the negative wire on the power cord.
hey, Can you please share the link for the light shocket again? I can't access from here, thank you!
How do you make sure the black iron dosnt stain when touched
Can you provide the link to the rotary switch please?
gracias, gracias, graciasssssssss un abrazo desde colombia
Hey, can you not solder the connections then heat shrink them?
How do you not have more views and subs>?!?!? Your videos are amazing please don't stop making them!
Such a Great Video, Thank YOU 🙏
What if you want to make one that wires directly into the wall?
thanks , I am going to do it
So nice! Do you connect hot wire or neutral wire to the rotary switch?or it don't matter?
you never switch a neural (white) always hot (black). keep the white neutral on the white wire of light sockets. this will make the screw shell cold & the center contact hot. i was an elecrician for 28 years. never dawned on me to build lamps from plumbing pipe!
Where can I get the socket and steel piece the socket goes into?
So what went wrong that the light switch didn’t work? Did u forget to plug it?
I think your parts list is wrong. You show an 1"x8" nipple. I believe that should be 3/4"...at least it looks like that's what you're using.
Do you have to use a grounding wire (ur toaster oven wire) or can u just connect the primary wire to the lamp wire like normal?
really good video
Tell me the exact model of the lamp switch. Thank you
I’m trying to make this for a gift but can you explain how phone charger works? I mean charging but sitting flat
So take a normal charging cord and slip it up through the slot I routered into the board from the bottom. Place a bead of silicon in the hole to hold the cord in place. I didn't show this very well in the video sorry !!
Also use a thicker board then I did the end of the charging cord doesn't like to bend or put feet on it like I did .. Let me know if you need anymore help !!
Well what about the green ground wire? If the lamp has a ground fault that could energize the metal pipes. That could cause problems such as fire or electrocution.
drill a small hole in an inconspicuous place, use a screw, nut & washer, wrap the green wire around & tightened. presto! fixture is grounded.
Love it and thank you for share this one
Wow ...wish i could meet someone like you
Robot lamp!!!
I can’t find the 3/4” gate valve anywhere. All of our hardware stores carry the plunger type.
I got mine from home depot you could also try Amazon.
Is the mobile phone charger connected to main lamp wiring? How is this done?
No it was on a separate plug
Here's a great idea. When you are talking, record what you're saying and drop the music so we know whats happening. Great project if I knew what you were doing.
Link for tthe switch???
Great job! Love to see a woman using power tools and being that hands on creative. When you grabbed that router and started, girl I was in love,until your boyfriend at the end. Keep up the great work!!!!!
This is super helpful!! Subscribing for sure :)
You are one awesome young lady.
Hey! Really nice build, i loved it!
There are a few things that you could improve:
- start and ending voice volume are really low and the music really high - makes it really hard to hear you.
- lower the music volume overall
- when you lower the camera at 2:40 you also lowered the mic and the sound of your voice was coming from above and it was also lower
- when you move the camera back ~ 2:57 the volume bounces back and it creates a bad audio experience.
I hope you don't mind me pointing these things out but I like the video and I would love to see your channel grow.
Nice job . One little piece of advice though . Turn down the music so we can hear what you're saying a bit better .
What is the red stuff you put on the pipe threads?
Awesome video, well done 🤙🏼
Hi Madam
Very good product is possible to buy from you?
Nice ideas!
Instead of that tubing, try heat shrink tubing instead.
wish you showed the light socket portion.
Great job! Love it!
Fantastic
My favourite part of this project was figuring out how to turn a standard gate valve into a light switch.
How to find pipe sizes used ????
why cant u use 3/4" pipe tee, had to use 1" to 3/4" reucer thing for the valve turn thing.
The switch won't fit in 3/4" pipe tee very well. She says this in the video.
what he said :P
I'm working on a similar switch, I cut the threaded rod on the valve so that it can fit in a 1 inch T with the switch
The prettiest youtuber ever
hey can it used for studing
hello, may I know how tall is this if you dont mind?
Nice, but switches go bad and pipes are expensive. With the JB Weld you likely won’t be able to disassemble to replace it.
Do you do custom lights? Can I pay you to do one for me? 🤷🏼♀️
Nice jiob👍
Excelente!!! Felicitaciones!!
I used 3/4 inch pipe on a similar project and plug won’t fit through