Hard break-in practitioner myself. First start, check for leaks, get mineral oil up to temp, shut off and drain. Refill with mineral oil and absolutely SEND IT!
Great timing on this video! Thanks for it. Watching this on the eve of taking my STi to the dyno at 1000 miles. My builder installed my reworked stock heads on an IAG 550 built block, did a 50 mile intitial run on the dyno and a base tune, then changed the Motul 10-40 break in oil. Then they handed off to me. Max rpm 4000, 2nd oil change at 500 miles, started a bit of boost (2-6 lbs max), kept up the varying revs and engine braking. Just did the third oil change using the last of the Motul break in oil at 1000 miles. After the TUNE tomorrow I'll drain the brake in oil and switch to 5-40 full synthetic, change again at 3000 miles and every 3000 miles after that. Very excited!
@racedynamix yeah. Ive been on the fence about that, but yes. Theorizing that the ZDDP will give a bit of protection for the intensity of the dyno pulls. What do you think? That oil will be in the motor for less than 24 hours 😂
Interesting to hear this. My run in has always been the same, mineral oil for the 1st change, B road driving with plenty of engine braking, up to 4000rpm as you suggest on wastegate/actuator. I typically do about 100 miles, park up for a bite to eat to let it cool down (heat cycle) then 100 miles back. Give everything a check over, oil/filter change, time for mapping :)
I had a rebuilt engine last December on my Hawkeye WRX STI after it spun a bearing (I blame the previous owner )and was rebuilt with Cosworth pistons, uprated oil pump, redirected coolant flow kit. Pretty much did as you did down back roads avoiding the motorways with different revs and loads
I like to use the cheap 10w40 mineral oil on run in then put the full synthetic when run in as it helps to stop the bores getting glazed over before it’s ready.
The break-in procedure that came with my forged piston Shortblock said to run Motul break-in oil and take it easy for the first 50 miles with lots of varying rpm up to a max of 4k rpm and no boost with a lot of engine breaking, and then change the oil and do a full dyno tune at that point and drive it any way you want afterwards.
Hey Duncan! You mentioned the Liquid Molly oil prior to a first dyno run on the new engine but what about for that first 1000 miles; what weight oil do you suggest? And would you change the weight as you are getting closer to 1000mile break in, as in a staged/stepwise oil change and weight? 🤔 As always, great video!! ❤ Top man for teaching us this stuff! 🥰
Hi Duncan, great vid I’ve glad you’ve got the forester sti back rarely see them anymore, I’ve only had to run in one engine and that was on my Renault 5 gt turbo that was rebuilt by gt tuning and as a young lad that was such torture unless you’ve had to do you won’t understand lol
@@racedynamix Yes just interested in what the total parts cost was really inc head refurb. I think it's something I fancy attempting in the garage over winter. Asembling up from a premade short block is something I think I could do.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hard break-in practitioner myself. First start, check for leaks, get mineral oil up to temp, shut off and drain. Refill with mineral oil and absolutely SEND IT!
Also, doubtles you know this already, but bearings don't "bed in." The main or rod bearings are not meant to directly touch the crankshaft journals.
😁😁
Great timing on this video! Thanks for it. Watching this on the eve of taking my STi to the dyno at 1000 miles. My builder installed my reworked stock heads on an IAG 550 built block, did a 50 mile intitial run on the dyno and a base tune, then changed the Motul 10-40 break in oil. Then they handed off to me. Max rpm 4000, 2nd oil change at 500 miles, started a bit of boost (2-6 lbs max), kept up the varying revs and engine braking. Just did the third oil change using the last of the Motul break in oil at 1000 miles. After the TUNE tomorrow I'll drain the brake in oil and switch to 5-40 full synthetic, change again at 3000 miles and every 3000 miles after that. Very excited!
Cool 😎 Tuning it with the breaking in oil in ?
@racedynamix yeah. Ive been on the fence about that, but yes. Theorizing that the ZDDP will give a bit of protection for the intensity of the dyno pulls. What do you think? That oil will be in the motor for less than 24 hours 😂
Interesting to hear this. My run in has always been the same, mineral oil for the 1st change, B road driving with plenty of engine braking, up to 4000rpm as you suggest on wastegate/actuator. I typically do about 100 miles, park up for a bite to eat to let it cool down (heat cycle) then 100 miles back. Give everything a check over, oil/filter change, time for mapping :)
😁😁
I had a rebuilt engine last December on my Hawkeye WRX STI after it spun a bearing (I blame the previous owner )and was rebuilt with Cosworth pistons, uprated oil pump, redirected coolant flow kit. Pretty much did as you did down back roads avoiding the motorways with different revs and loads
Nice work..Frustrating miles aren't they ? 😁
Great stuff Duncan glad you got it finished hope everything goes well on the dyno when you get there credit to you she’s looking good 👌👍💪🏼
Thanks Grant. It feels strong so fingers crossed it finds some more power 😎
I like to use the cheap 10w40 mineral oil on run in then put the full synthetic when run in as it helps to stop the bores getting glazed over before it’s ready.
👏😎
The break-in procedure that came with my forged piston Shortblock said to run Motul break-in oil and take it easy for the first 50 miles with lots of varying rpm up to a max of 4k rpm and no boost with a lot of engine breaking, and then change the oil and do a full dyno tune at that point and drive it any way you want afterwards.
Wow.. 50 miles. Breaking in for inpatient people 😁😁 What pistons were they ?
@racedynamix JE Time Attack "FSR" pistons, which are a 2618 alloy.
Hey Duncan!
You mentioned the Liquid Molly oil prior to a first dyno run on the new engine but what about for that first 1000 miles; what weight oil do you suggest?
And would you change the weight as you are getting closer to 1000mile break in, as in a staged/stepwise oil change and weight? 🤔
As always, great video!! ❤
Top man for teaching us this stuff! 🥰
The rubbish oil is a 10/40 semi synthetic oil ..cheap stuff. I am just running that until the good stuff goes in on 1k miles 👍
Hi Duncan, great vid I’ve glad you’ve got the forester sti back rarely see them anymore, I’ve only had to run in one engine and that was on my Renault 5 gt turbo that was rebuilt by gt tuning and as a young lad that was such torture unless you’ve had to do you won’t understand lol
I want to do this to my 04 Forester STi. What's the total cost in parts to buy/fit a new short block?
I'd need to work it out tbh... do you want me to quote you for sourcing/building or just a rough cost for the parts ?
@@racedynamix Yes just interested in what the total parts cost was really inc head refurb. I think it's something I fancy attempting in the garage over winter. Asembling up from a premade short block is something I think I could do.